Recently, in a good company of bloggers, I managed to visit the Promtractor plant, which is located in the city of Cheboksary. The enterprise is part of the " Tractor factories"and is engaged in the production of a wide range of tractors, bulldozers, pipe layers, excavators and other heavy equipment under the CHETRA brand.
Today, especially for the readers of the community, there is a report on how equipment is made for various needs and about the largest bulldozers in our country.
During the Soviet era, the plant produced only one model - the T-330 heavy industrial tractor. Now graders, bulldozers, excavators, all-terrain vehicles, loaders, pipe-layers, loaders, forestry equipment and even rollers are produced here, more than 10 models of equipment are produced in total.
The plant has recently been modernized, equipped with new machines in order to be competitive not only in our market, but also abroad.
The new machines allow making more varied parts than was possible on the old Soviet counterparts.
The parts of the bulldozers are not small.
However, the plant also has a lot of old machines, both Soviet, which do only a few operations, and German, such as SCHISS machining complexes, which were purchased in the mid-80s. The line is still in operation and consists of 25 machining centers, differing only in equipment and software. It was enough here cloudy glass, because the photo is.
Large workshops of the plant are not loaded on full power, but here and there are ready-to-assemble parts.
The lines in one of the shops are served by such small automatic loaders, which themselves move along a certain trajectory, which is set by special marks mounted in the floor. You can see them in the photo too.
We found the plant during a shift shift, so there were few workers, although, as they explained to us, only 20 people work in the machining shop. This is enough, because all the work is done by CNC machines, the workers can only follow the process.
In Soviet times, the number of workers at the Promtractor reached 30,000 people. The plant then produced about 2,000 T-330 tractors a year. Now the plant produces about 1200 units of various equipment, and the staff is only 3000 people.
In the neighborhood of modern automated centers, there are also very old machines. This is the adjacent workshop - the transmission workshop.
There is metal tiles from the Soviet era on the floor, and it is unlikely that time can spoil it.
The capacities of the enterprise have not changed, although the number has decreased, but the range of manufactured equipment has significantly expanded. It used to be easier to make a model of one tractor than now a dozen different models machines, many of which are much heavier and more complex than the T-330.
The decrease in the number of employees was not only due to automation. Previously, "Promtractor" was a typical "all-in-one" plant for the USSR. Everything from nuts and bolts was made here. But this is very inefficient, and now production is completely small parts outsourced. The foundry, which is engaged in another plant as part of a single concern, was also withdrawn.
The old equipment is gradually removed from the shops and used for scrap. The vacated areas are occupied for other needs, like this workshop for the assembly of transmissions for agricultural tractors.
On the walls of the plant there are posters with images of manufactured products.
Simple Cheboksary workers.
Here is such a cool stall with nice girls right in the shop! True, it did not function, we never tried the branded factory pies).
Soviet slogans are present in almost all factories created in Soviet times... True, not all of them survived, by contrast.
In addition to robotic loaders, there are other instances of human control. You can say rarities.
The parts and bodies of the cars themselves seem gigantic.
As you can see, there is no pipeline here. Each bulldozer is assembled in one place.
While some workers were hiding from cameras, others, on the contrary, asked to photograph them.
At the last stage, as I understand it, the caterpillars are put on.
An astronaut, a worker and a toiler of cultural events?
We will soon have a test drive on these tractors.
Cabins and other external parts are powder coated in a modern paint booth.
This is how the Chetra tractor cab looks from the inside. There is no rudder here!
And these cabins will be installed on the tractors of the Vladimir Tractor Plant
The assembled machine is sent for testing, and after passing them it is sent to the customer in one of 40 countries of the world. CHETRA technique is widely demanded in Australia, Egypt, Indonesia, Mozambique, Syria, South Korea... The plant has its own testing ground for testing.
Loaders.
And now we are waiting for a small show, where we will be shown the capabilities of the Chetra technique.
Probably already noticed the corporate colors of "Chetra"?
The concept of a new S-33 dump truck with a payload capacity of 33 tons was also presented here. He is now being tested. Those who have seen Volvo dump trucks think they will be able to find comparisons between them.
Soon it will go into production. In general, if earlier the plant produced only industrial tractors, now excavators are also made here and soon the production of dump trucks will begin, and even combine harvesters... The production of Yenisei combines from Krasnoyarsk is transferred here to Promtractor.
This was done because the main consumers of this equipment are located in the European part of Russia, as well as the main suppliers of components, some of which are produced here, on the Promtractor.
Every year 1-2 new models are introduced here, and about 20 new units of various equipment are in varying degrees of readiness.
Tractors like these are used in pipe-laying.
Excavators "Chetra" are in no way inferior to foreign counterparts. And the price is even more affordable.
The abbreviation T-6 means a tractor weighing 6 tons.
By the way, CHETRA equipment was used in the construction of major infrastructure projects of our time, such as pipelines Eastern Siberia - Pacific Ocean, Sakhalin-2, gas pipelines "Blue Stream", "Vankor-Purpe", "Pochinki-Gryazovets".
Well, the show has begun! The bulldozer shows how the bucket can turn.
Enters the podium.
MTZ tractors in the agricultural industry are very popular due to their low price, simplicity in operation, as well as due to their high performance. Most owners want to modify their iron horses and maximize their capabilities. One of these modifications can be called a frontal blade, which will be indispensable when clearing snow and some other agricultural work.
The homemade dump at the base will become an indispensable tool for any farmer: planning and snow removal work, creating terraces, construction, and so on.
With the right approach to construction, such a dump will have many advantages:
- Thanks to self-selection of parts and construction, it is easy to independently maintain and repair equipment, and, if necessary, modify it;
- You yourself select the optimal blade size for you and your machine;
- In the presence of a large amount of orphan material and the necessary tool, can be much cheaper than those sold on the Internet;
- Most of the dumps that are offered on the Internet are made independently, for this reason, if you have certain skills, you can build a bulldozer at least as good as the ones offered.
Photo of a homemade bulldozer at the base tractor MTZ
However, a number of disadvantages can be noted:
- In the event of a breakdown of the equipment or the tractor, there will be no one to turn to for warranty obligations;
- At wrong selection blade size, the machine can be overloaded severely, resulting in fatal damage.
Necessary materials
Before starting and selecting materials for a bulldozer at MTZ 80 or 82, it is necessary to draw up a plan and drawing. To pick up optimal size and the weight of the blade, it is necessary to take into account what materials you will have to work with, as well as the weight and power of the tractor.
To avoid a mistake, it is best to look at the bulldozers offered on the market, of the same class as the tractors, and better even a lower class. Then just copy the dimensions of the blade.
Instruments
V in this case Not so many tools are needed: these are wrenches, a metal cutter and a welding machine. It is the person who will become the most important tool, since the final result will depend on his skills.
Materials (edit)
Perhaps the main material will be sheet metal, which will go both to the frame for the bulldozer and to the blade itself. The size must be calculated according to the expected loads or simply copied from existing models.
Two thick semi-frame beams are required. You will also need 6 pivot joints, as well as one hydraulic cylinder. You also need to take two metal pipes with a diameter of about 100 mm and 4 swivel joints.
However, if you are going to make a swivel blade, you will have to pick up two more cylinders instead of two. metal pipes... This will allow you to adjust the blade rotation and expand its functionality.
The people are used to calling a tractor blade a shovel. But we will not be talking about names, but about self-production for the tractor.
Not everywhere nearby are shopping centers, dealers and other salons where it is easy to buy a blade for a tractor. So for a person who has a tractor and lives in the village, it is easier to make a dump with his own hands than to buy in the city.
Dump is hollow structure, boil dumps from thick sheets become. At the bottom of the front part, the knives are bolted. They can be removed if necessary.
On the back side, in the center, there is a bracket with which the blade is raised and lowered.
In the same place, only on the sides, spars are welded, the hinges of which are attached to. The only thing is that the tractor must have hydraulic system.
Views
The dumps have different geometric configuration- depending on the type of work performed by the tractor with the blade.
When the task is to move a lot of bulk materials, and quickly, bulldozers with dumps are used spherical or hemispherical.
On the sides of the dump do special openers- so that the bulldozer grips material such as sand, soil, as in a bucket.
If you need to fill up a trench or foundation pit, a blade capable of turning 25 degrees to the sides - to the side is suitable.
When opening or removing the top layer of soil, you will need bulldozers equipped with reclamation dumps... This shovel has a wide grip.
Straight blades can rightfully be called universal.
The equipment of the tractor must allow the blade to be skewed - this will allow it to work with both normal and solid soils. Such cuts better surface.
If the tractor is small, for example, the T-25, it is, in principle, easy to make a blade for it.
This requires, firstly, steel pipe with a diameter of no more than 50 cm. Cut the pipe into 3 segments lengthwise. One will become the frontal plane - the front blade, the other rear - the rear, and from the third make openings and perimeter boxes.
Weld to the finished shovel thrust pushers, which should be fixed to the supporting part of the tractor structure. For fastening use floating hinges.
From the back, in the center, weld two strips of thick iron. The plates must have calibrated holes, since it will be attached to them hydraulic cylinder rod.
So now you know what dozer blades are and what each design is best for.
An example of how to make a front blade from a barrel
Recently, in a good company of bloggers, I managed to visit the Promtractor plant, which is located in the city of Cheboksary. The enterprise is part of the Tractor Plants concern and is engaged in the production of a wide range of tractors, bulldozers, pipe layers, excavators and other heavy equipment under the CHETRA brand.
Today, especially for the readers of the community, there is a report on how equipment is made for various needs and about the largest bulldozers in our country.
During the Soviet era, the plant produced only one model - the T-330 heavy industrial tractor. Now graders, bulldozers, excavators, all-terrain vehicles, loaders, pipe-layers, loaders, forestry equipment and even rollers are produced here, more than 10 models of equipment are produced in total.
The plant has recently been modernized, equipped with new machines in order to be competitive not only in our market, but also abroad.
The new machines allow making more varied parts than was possible on the old Soviet counterparts.
The parts of the bulldozers are not small.
However, the plant also has a lot of old machines, both Soviet, which do only a few operations, and German, such as SCHISS machining complexes, which were purchased in the mid-80s. The line is still in operation and consists of 25 machining centers, differing only in equipment and software. There was a rather dull glass here, that's why the photo is like this.
The large workshops of the plant are not fully loaded, but here and there are parts ready for assembly.
The lines in one of the shops are served by such small automatic loaders, which themselves move along a certain trajectory, which is set by special marks mounted in the floor. You can see them in the photo too.
We found the plant during a shift shift, so there were few workers, although, as they explained to us, only 20 people work in the machining shop. This is enough, because all the work is done by CNC machines, the workers can only follow the process.
In Soviet times, the number of workers at the Promtractor reached 30,000 people. The plant then produced about 2,000 T-330 tractors a year. Now the plant produces about 1200 units of various equipment, and the staff is only 3000 people.
In the neighborhood of modern automated centers, there are also very old machines. This is the adjacent workshop - the transmission workshop.
There is metal tiles from the Soviet era on the floor, and it is unlikely that time can spoil it.
The capacities of the enterprise have not changed, although the number has decreased, but the range of manufactured equipment has significantly expanded. It used to be easier to produce a model of one tractor than now a dozen different models of machines, many of which are much heavier and more complicated than the T-330.
The decrease in the number of employees was not only due to automation. Previously, "Promtractor" was a typical "all-in-one" plant for the USSR. Everything from nuts and bolts was made here. But this is very inefficient, and now the production of very small parts is outsourced. The foundry, which is engaged in another plant as part of a single concern, was also withdrawn.
The old equipment is gradually removed from the shops and used for scrap. The vacated areas are occupied for other needs, like this workshop for the assembly of transmissions for agricultural tractors.
On the walls of the plant there are posters with images of manufactured products.
Simple Cheboksary workers.
Here is such a cool stall with nice girls right in the shop! True, it did not function, we never tried the branded factory pies).
Soviet slogans are present in almost all factories created in Soviet times. True, not all of them survived, by contrast.
In addition to robotic loaders, there are other instances of human control. You can say rarities.
We go to the assembly shop.
The parts and bodies of the cars themselves seem gigantic.
As you can see, there is no pipeline here. Each bulldozer is assembled in one place.
While some workers were hiding from cameras, others, on the contrary, asked to photograph them.
At the last stage, as I understand it, the caterpillars are put on.
An astronaut, a worker and a toiler of cultural events?
We will soon have a test drive on these tractors.
Cabins and other external parts are powder coated in a modern paint booth.
This is how the Chetra tractor cab looks from the inside. There is no rudder here!
Hi Vitaly dervishv .
And these cabins will be installed on the tractors of the Vladimir Tractor Plant
The assembled machine is sent for testing, and after passing them it is sent to the customer in one of 40 countries of the world. The CHETRA technique is widely demanded in Australia, Egypt, Indonesia, Mozambique, Syria, South Korea. The plant has its own testing ground for testing.
Loaders.
And now we are waiting for a small show, where we will be shown the capabilities of the Chetra technique.
Probably already noticed the corporate colors of "Chetra"?
The concept of a new S-33 dump truck with a payload capacity of 33 tons was also presented here. He is now being tested. Those who have seen Volvo dump trucks think they will be able to find comparisons between them.
Soon it will go into production. In general, if earlier the plant produced only industrial tractors, now they also make excavators here and will soon begin the production of dump trucks, and even grain harvesters. The production of Yenisei combines from Krasnoyarsk is transferred here to Promtractor.
This was done because the main consumers of this equipment are located in the European part of Russia, as well as the main suppliers of components, some of which are produced here, on the Promtractor.
Every year 1-2 new models are introduced here, and about 20 new units of various equipment are in varying degrees of readiness.
Tractors like these are used in pipe-laying.
Excavators "Chetra" are in no way inferior to foreign counterparts. And the price is even more affordable.
The abbreviation T-6 means a tractor weighing 6 tons.
T-11, respectively -?
By the way, CHETRA equipment was used in the construction of major infrastructure projects of our time, such as pipelines Eastern Siberia - Pacific Ocean, Sakhalin-2, gas pipelines "Blue Stream", "Vankor-Purpe", "Pochinki-Gryazovets".
Well, the show has begun! The bulldozer shows how the bucket can turn.
Enters the podium.
The egg and matchbox are not here by chance.
Spray paint too.
But first, the bulldozer rises on the bucket and teeth located at the back of the machine and rotates the tracks.
And now the test for accuracy. Despite the huge weight of the machine and the seeming clumsiness, the operation of closing the matchbox and neatly breaking the shell is successful).
These machines even participated in the "Minute of Glory" program, where they showed their extraordinary capabilities. In particular, one of the Chetra tractors drove over an impromptu bridge of two ropes, I was impressed.
After the show, a solemn event took place. Chetra has a tradition of naming its equipment after famous athletes. This time two loaders were honored: they were given the names of the 2013 Universiade champions, weightlifters Olga Zubova and Tatyana Kashirina
Moment of glory).
And now to the landfill. The photo shows the largest domestic bulldozer T-40. Soon I will sit in the driver's seat to steer it and roll the photographer nearest to me into the mud).
Inside the bulldozers are girls working in factories. As if a hint that even a girl can handle the technique)
The camera is filming me. Waiting for me to finally fall under the tracks)
If you have a production or service that you want to tell our readers about, write to Aslan ( [email protected] ) and we will make the best report that will be seen not only by the readers of the community, but also by the site
Every year mini excavators are becoming more and more popular among Russian consumers.
This technique, despite its modest size, has all the functionality of its "older brothers" and at the same time has a number of advantages over them.
These include compactness, light weight, economy, ease of transportation to the work site and relatively low cost.
Small size allows the use of mini excavators in a confined space, including in closed rooms, where it cannot work large equipment... They are used when carrying out various construction and earthmoving works: digging pits, trenches for laying pipelines and cables, arranging landscape design plots, etc.
In today's market of special equipment, there are big choice models of mini excavators of foreign manufacturers. But the cost of such equipment is quite high and largely depends on the popularity of the manufacturer.
Therefore, for many consumers, purchasing it becomes unaffordable and alternative option is the independent manufacture of a mini excavator for your needs, which can significantly save the cost of purchasing it.
Photo of a homemade mini-excavator
Where to begin
The first step in the process of building a mini excavator with your own hands is to determine its type, which can be of two main options:
Removable attachments on existing special equipment, such as a mini tractor.
Fully autonomous model that can be self-propelled (wheeled or caterpillar) or in the form of a trailer transported by other vehicles.
The advantage of the first option is the versatility of mini equipment, which can perform various types of work by changing attachments. In the absence of such an opportunity, the creation of an autonomous mini excavator remains.
It should be noted that making a completely self-propelled model with your own hands, especially on a caterpillar track, is a rather laborious and costly process that requires appropriate technical knowledge and skills, as well as a large number of different Supplies and spare parts.
The simplest and least expensive option in this case is a homemade mini excavator based on a trailer in the form bearing frame with one wheelset on which it is installed autonomous engine internal combustion, hydraulic drive and directly excavating equipment.
Where to get drawings
The next step in creating a homemade mini excavator is to select a specific model scheme that includes all necessary elements and standard sizes of individual parts and mechanisms.
In this case, you can develop your own design, if you have the appropriate technical knowledge and skills for this, calculating the required engine power, hydraulic pump and efforts on the hydraulic cylinders, taking into account the nature of the future work performed.
You can also use a ready-made scheme developed by other craftsmen.
Ready-made drawings of various models of mini excavators and instructions for their manufacture can be found on many Russian and foreign sites on the Internet by entering the query "homemade mini excavator drawing" in the search bar of your browser.
However, it should be borne in mind that in most of the drawings presented on foreign sites, the dimensions are indicated in inches. Therefore, for the convenience of further work, it is necessary to translate them into the metric system of measurements.
Having on hand a specific diagram (drawing), you need to make an approximate estimate for the acquisition necessary spare parts and materials, as well as the availability of the necessary tools, equipment and skills in handling it. Thus, you can finally determine your capabilities and prospects for the independent manufacture of a mini excavator.
Design features
A home-made mini excavator, as a rule, has a classic layout and a working cycle scheme based on the "backhoe" principle, like most industrially produced models of such special equipment.
The main elements of such a scheme include:
- a supporting frame on a wheeled or tracked chassis;
- the engine driving the hydraulic pump;
- slewing support platform on which the working equipment is mounted;
- hydraulic system, including a hydraulic pump, oil filter, hydraulic tank, distributor with control handles, working hydraulic cylinders and connecting pipelines (hoses);
- working equipment in the form of a two-section swivel boom with a bucket.
As a supporting element, you can take as a basis a frame from an old tractor or trailer, or make it yourself by installing an engine on it, fuel tank and at least one wheel axle, for example from a car. For greater stability and to prevent possible overturning during operation, it is advisable to provide for the installation of two or four support shoes on the sides of the base frame.
In such homemade products, the most commonly used japanese engines power from 6.5 to 15 kW, characterized by their compactness and reliability in operation.
Recently, their Chinese counterparts have also been popular, which actually are not inferior to them in reliability and have a much lower cost (for example, Lifan motors). Less commonly, various engines of domestic production are used for this.
Selection of individual units of a mini excavator
Most simple option assembling a homemade mini excavator is the purchase of a ready-made boom with a hydraulic system, which are currently offered by some manufacturers and installing it on an existing mini-equipment or homemade frame with engine and hydraulic drive. This allows you to avoid many problems with the setup of this equipment and the purchase of consumables and spare parts in the course of its further operation.
However, the cost of such new equipment is quite high, so many DIYers try to make it. individual nodes independently, using for this purpose materials at hand or parts from old special equipment with a certain revision.
Hydraulic system
The classic excavator hydraulic system includes 4 main sections that control the operation of the slewing platform, lifting boom, stick and bucket. To simplify the assembly of a home-made mini excavator, the turntable device can be abandoned, limiting itself to installing the boom on the slewing ring directly attached to the supporting frame.
For a homemade version, you will need 4 hydraulic cylinders that provide swing and raise / lower the boom, handle travel and bucket control.
For this, hydraulic cylinders with suitable parameters from different types special equipment, for example, used for lifting the cab of heavy vehicles (MAZ, KAMAZ, etc.).
Hydraulic drive
The choice of a hydraulic pump depends entirely on the preferences and financial capabilities of the master. The gear pump is distinguished by its simple design, unpretentious operation and low cost. In contrast, an axial piston pump is more expensive, but has more high power with the same overall dimensions.
As practice shows, in self-made mini equipment, the NSh-10 gear pump, complete with the R-16A distributor, is most often used. To increase the required power, it is possible to use simultaneously two such pumps and distributors, which is often practiced domestic producers special equipment.
Gear pump
Work equipment
As mentioned above, the easiest way is to buy ready-made excavator equipment with an installed hydraulic system.
If the available finances do not allow this, then it is cheaper to make a lifting boom and a handle by welding from profiled pipes and sheet metal blanks of the required thickness, cut out according to the available drawings.
Also, if there is such an opportunity, then you can remove the arrow from the old front loader, but at the same time it will have to be thoroughly modified.
In the photo, the working equipment is ready for installation.
The bucket of a mini excavator is its main working body, which perceives the main load when excavating soil. Therefore, for its manufacture, high-quality sheet steel with a thickness of at least 6-8 mm is required.
The workpieces cut out according to the drawings are carefully welded along all the seams. To strengthen the structure, the bottom and the upper edge along the entire perimeter are additionally reinforced with steel plates.
On the outer front edge of the bucket, "tusks" made of extra hard alloys are additionally welded, for example, fingers from caterpillar tractors.
It should be borne in mind that to assemble a homemade mini excavator, you will need certain spare parts and materials, as well as the need for various types of locksmithing, welding, turning and milling and other types of work.
Before deciding on its independent manufacture, it is necessary to assess the availability of the necessary parts and materials, your technical knowledge, skills and abilities and the availability of the necessary tools.
Otherwise, it may turn out that the independent production of a mini excavator will cost more than buying an industrially produced model, which at the same time has much better technical characteristics and more convenient to operate.
In the video, a homemade mini-excavator at work:
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Source: http://allspectech.com/stroitelnaya/jekskavatory/mini-ekskavatory/svoimi-rukami.html
We assemble a mini-excavator with our own hands
Compact construction equipment is very popular. Small dimensions, economical fuel consumption, while maintaining the functionality of a full-fledged model. Excavators were no exception. Small earthmoving equipment, ideal for small construction companies, utilities and individuals.
Thanks to a wide range of attachments, the mini-excavator is capable of performing a wide range of works. But there is one problem here: such models cost from 300,000 rubles, so not everyone can afford such a purchase. What to do in this case? There is only one way out: to design a mini-excavator with your own hands.
Preparatory stage of work
First you need to decide what kind of excavator you need. Small-sized earthmoving equipment is of two types: self-propelled or trailed.
In the first case, you will need an engine so that the excavator can move independently. In the second case, the equipment can be attached to a tractor or other tractor.
It is worth noting that mounted models are much easier to make with your own hands than self-propelled ones.
Any work on the creation of equipment begins with drawings. This will help to better calculate the tractive effort, determine the amount of material, and think over appearance excavator. Drawings can be prepared independently, or you can use ready-made sketches on the Internet.
We select the necessary nodes
So that the compact excavator is almost as good as heavy vehicles, it is made according to their model. Respectively homemade model must have the following elements:
- Chassis. When creating a trailed version, a welded metal frame and one wheelset will do.
- Engine. Considering that the equipment will work with a tractor, the powerful power unit it makes no sense to put. You can get by with a small motor, with a power of 6.4 kW or more. This is enough to start the hydraulic pump.
- Platform. The main units and mechanisms will be located here, steering and an operator's seat.
- Hydraulic system. This includes: pump, filter, connecting hoses and hydraulic valves.
- Boom with bucket. This work item can be purchased ready-made.
Getting Started
Some home craftsmen assemble a homemade mini-excavator from ready-made assemblies. The necessary parts are purchased in stores, but in this case, it will be much easier and cheaper to buy a ready-made model. Therefore, we will consider the option self assembly from old parts.
The wheel axle is attached to the frame from the old car trailer... From above, metal sheets are welded to the channel; this will be a platform for the equipment.
Boom with bucket. If you do not have experience in assembling complex mechanisms, then it is better to buy a ready-made arrow. When making your own boom, it is recommended to use round or square, with a wall thickness of 6-8 millimeters. The boom consists of three parts, which are interconnected by hinges or bushings.
The bucket can be welded independently from metal sheets. To make the structure strong enough, it is recommended to reinforce the upper part with an additional strip of metal, use longitudinal stiffening ribs and make "fangs". To make the bucket teeth, you can use metal "fingers" borrowed from the tracks of an old tractor.
Hydraulics. This is the most difficult part of a mini excavator. The hydraulic system is responsible for the operation of the boom. You will need 3 hydraulic cylinders to lower, swing and move the boom. Another one will be responsible for bucket control. You can remove them from any old truck where the cylinders are responsible for raising the cab.
It is almost impossible to make a hydraulic cylinder on your own, so do not waste time, but walk around car depots and garages. There you can probably find the part you need.
To hydraulic system worked, you need to install the pump. The pump of the gear type NSh-10 is optimal. Complete with the pump, you can use a four-section hydraulic valve R-16A or RGS-253. Everything hydraulic equipment connected by hoses. The pump is connected to the engine, a container for oil is installed on the platform.
Finishing touches
As you can see, you can make a mini-excavator, just make a little effort. Basically, after the above assembly steps, homemade technique ready for use.
To work with comfort, you can make a canopy or a small cabin from a metal profile. Install the passenger car seat inside.
If you plan to work in dark time days, it makes sense to think about lighting.
Before you start assembling, think, maybe it would be better to purchase a ready-made mini-excavator? Homemade options are not much cheaper, and require certain skills when assembling.
TELL YOUR FRIENDS
Source: http://mastertraktor.ru/dorozhnaya-texnika/mini-ekskavator-svoimi-rukami.html
Wooden children's toy - bulldozer
This bulldozer can not only push wooden blocks across the entire nursery, but also collect compliments to you.
When the child drives it around the "construction site", he will be able to raise and lower the blade like a real road car.
This toy continues the series of road construction equipment projects started in the articles "Crane Toy" and "Children's Toy - Front Loader"
- Overall dimensions: width - 213 mm; length - 337 mm; height - 179 mm.
- Blade width, mm: 197.
- Ground clearance, mm: 6.
- Transmission: manual.
- Fuel: children's imagination.
Chassis manufacturing
1. Saw a piece 76 x 432 mm from a 38 mm thick walnut board (or glued from several layers).
From this blank, cut out chassis A according to the dimensions indicated in the "List of materials", and set the rest aside. Mark the centers of the 9mm holes and chamfers on the chassis (Fig.1a).
Drill the holes with a drilling machine. File the chamfers with a bandsaw, then sand to the scribed lines.
Secure chassis A with a clamp to a workbench to prevent the part from wobbling. Glue the radiator B and press it in with a clamp.
2. Make a copy of the heatsink template. Take the remainder of the walnut blank, use aerosol glue to fix the template on the whole edge, aligning with one of the ends, and cut along the contour with a band saw, and then grind the radiator V to the final form. Save the rest of the workpiece for the cab).
Use a drilling machine to drill a 5mm hole. Remove the paper template and wash off any traces of glue with mineral spirits, then mill the chamfers. Finish the chassis A and radiator V sandpaper No. 220.
Glue the heatsink to the chassis flush with the front edge (photo A).
3. Saw two blanks for the side supports C (fig. 2).
Make a copy of the template, spray glue it to the workpiece, cut with a band saw and sand both parts to the final shape .
Drill holes in the indicated locations. Separate the parts, sand them with 220 grit sandpaper, and then mill the chamfers along the upper outer ribs.
4. Saw out two spacer pieces D for track rollers (Fig.2a). Mark and drill holes in the indicated places, and then grind at the corners of the rounding with a radius of 10 mm.
Sand the parts with 220 grit sandpaper and glue them to the side supports WITH by aligning the ends and the back side (fig. 2).
When the glue is dry, glue these assemblies C / D to chassis A in the middle of its length (Fig.1a).
Glue sides E flush against the back of radiator B flush with the outer edges of chassis A.
5. Saw two sides out of a 19mm walnut plank E.
Make a copy of the sidewall template, attach it to the workpiece with aerosol glue, drill a hole, cut along the contour and sand both sides to the final shape.
Separate the parts, sand them with 220 grit sandpaper, then glue them to the chassis A-D and fix with clamps (photo B).
Add body details
1. Saw two 19x76x76mm maple pieces and one 6x76x76mm walnut piece. Glue the bag of three blanks, placing the walnut in the middle and aligning the edges. 11After thoroughly drying, make a copy of the bonnet template and attach it with spray adhesive.
Saw out the hood with a band saw and sand to the final shape. Drill a hole for the exhaust pipe (fig. 1). Sand the part with 220 grit sandpaper, then mill 2mm chamfers on the top front and two vertical ribs.
11glue the hood over the sidewalls E close to the radiator V.
2. Saw out the base of the cab G, back wall N and platform 1 (fig. 1). The back wall should fit snugly between the two sides E.
To make a booth, take the rest of the thick walnut blank and attach a paper copy of the booth template to it with aerosol glue. Saw with a band saw and sand the part to its final shape.
Then drill a hole in the indicated location and chamfer both sides.
3. Saw out the workpiece 19x140x51 mm for the side compartments TO... Mill 10mm chamfers at both ends, then saw the workpiece in two. Use a band saw to cut out the roof L and chamfer the bottom edges (rice.
1). On a 10x22x102 mm workpiece, mill 2 mm chamfers on two edges on the front side and saw off the posts M by adjusting their length to the distance between the roof and the side compartments of the cab. Sand all cab parts with 220 grit sandpaper.
Glue side bays K to platform I only, not to cab J. Spring clips will help to hold the parts in tight spaces.
4. Quick tip! Remove the clamps after five minutes. When gluing parts from G to M, it is enough to press them with clamps for five minutes. The glue will already begin to set, and the part will not budge when you glue the next one.
Glue the base G to the sidewalls E flush against the back of the bonnet F (fig. 1). Then glue the back wall between the sidewalls N pushing it close to the base of the cab. After that, glue platform 1 to the base, aligning it in the middle of the width and pressing it against the hood.
Glue the cockpit over the platform J flush with the bonnet, also aligning it in the middle of the width. Add side bays TO by gluing them to the platform (photo C). Line up their ends with the cab chamfers (fig. 4).
Glue the racks to the cockpit M by aligning them in the middle of the side bays and then add the roof L by gluing it to the cockpit.
Take care of the caterpillars
You can carefully position the tracks N, O using a ruler, pressing it against two wheels. Press the parts down for a couple of minutes until the glue sets.
1. Take a nut blank with dimensions 13x38x330 mm. Make two copies of the templates of the top and back parts caterpillars, glue them to the edge of the workpiece. Use a band saw to cut out the tracks N, O and sand them with 220 grit sandpaper.
2. Temporarily install axles and twin wheels on one side of the body A-M... Use the wheels as guidelines to place the track pieces to glue them in place. (PhotoD). Let the glue dry for 30 minutes and then repeat the operation on the other side of the case.
Blade knife making
1. Saw out the back wall of the blade R and put it aside. Saw the blanks for the top bit Q and side knives R (fig.3).
Glue the templates to the workpieces, then cut out both side knives at the same time, connecting them into a bag, and sand to the contour lines. Note.
Do not chamfer the ends of the top bit yet.
Drill holes in the top attachment and side knives. On the top accessory, mill 2mm chamfers along both top ribs, the lower front rib, and around the holes. Remove the templates and sand the parts with 220 grit sandpaper.
2. Bevel the edge of the 19mm workpiece for the lower knife S, and then saw off the workpiece to the final width. (Fig. Behind). Route a 2mm chamfer along the back rib and sand the part with 220 grit sandpaper.
3. Apply adhesive to the top and bottom edges of the rear wall of the blade R and press the top nozzle with the clamps Q and bottom knife S aligning the rear sides of the parts flush.
When the glue is dry, glue the side knives to this assembly. R(photo E). Let the glue dry and then file off the top corners with a band saw (PhotoF).
Clip the glued P / Q / S blade pieces to a workbench, then glue the R side knives aligning them to the back.
Before filing corners blade P-S, align it horizontally using a trim board. Remove sawing marks by sanding.
4. Sharpen a 102 x 330 mm maple piece to a thickness of 13 mm. Saw off two 22 mm wide strips for the lower links T and brackets U... Saw off one bracket from each strip, and then saw off both strips to a width of 19 mm to make the rods.
Cut the rest of the workpiece to a thickness of 10 mm and cut out two strips 16 mm wide for hydraulic cylinders V and struts W... Cut the rest of the workpiece to a thickness of 6 mm and cut out the workpieces for the front struts from it X.
Make copies of templates for details T-X and attach them to the corresponding workpieces with spray glue. Saw out the parts and sand to the final shape. Drill holes where indicated, then sand with 220 grit sandpaper.
Mill 2mm chamfers on the rods and cylinders as indicated on the templates.
5. To assemble the blade, prepare the pieces of the threaded rod (fig. 4).
Pair the front struts X with hydraulic cylinders V with 30mm lengths of stud and cap nuts.
(Both assemblies must be mirror-symmetrical.) Attach these assemblies to the heatsink In (photoG).
Insert a threaded rod 108 mm long through the hole in the X-post, then through the radiator B and slide the second post onto the other end.
Place the blade P, S on the workbench and attach the tie rods T. Then glue the struts W and the brackets U. Fix the gluing with rubber rings.
With a threaded rod through the hole in the T rod, add a nut, then two more after the first V post and a fourth after the second V post.
6. Connect the strut braces with 32 mm lengths of threaded rod W with brackets U and add cap nuts to get symmetrical assemblies. Temporarily attach the rods T to side supports C (fig. 4).
Put a rubber ring on each rod (photo N) before attaching the previously assembled blade to them using threaded rods and cap nuts P-S.
Apply a drop of glue to each brace and bracket, and then glue them in place, placing the brackets behind the holes of the top nozzle Q (photo H). Let the glue dry.
7. Remove the assembled blade P-X from the case A-O and remove the rubber bands.
Attach the front struts with hydraulic cylinders to the blade X / V with 194 mm threaded rod, four regular nuts and two cap nuts (photo I).
Reattach the rods T to side supports WITH and check how the blade rises and falls.
Completion
1. Remove the blade from the body P-X and separate the threaded rods. Remove twin wheels. Place masking tape around the wooden axle rods and the lower end of the exhaust pipe. Apply a finishing coat to all parts.
2. When the coating is completely dry, remove the masking tape and glue exhaust pipe into the hood F... Thread the axles through the holes of the wheels and road wheels, add washers (fig. 1 and 2). Glue the axles into the holes of the spacers D, chassis A and sidewalls E.
3. Reconnect the blade pieces using the threaded rods and cap nuts. Insert the wooden axles through the holes in the rods. T and insert their ends into the side supports WITH without pasting them.
Insert 22mm threaded rods into the rear rod holes, apply threadlocker, and tighten the cap nuts so the blade can rise and fall in position.
Now invite a small operator who will operate the powerful machine.
