This article was published primarily at the request of a visitor to our site named Vladimir, who recently became the proud owner of a car of the brand VAZ-2107.And, of course, he immediately had questions related to repair and maintenance of your car, the answers to which he decided to find on the Internet (in particular on this site). Well, to help a person who wants competently conduct DIY car repair, holy cause! The question was - How to replace the coolant in a VAZ-2107 car? You can familiarize yourself with the answer to it by clicking on the link - read in full. ... I think that this article will be useful to owners of other cars of the brand WHA... Since the process replacing antifreeze or antifreeze in a VAZ 2107 car almost no different from the process coolant replacement in other cars of the brand VAZ of the Zhiguli family (such as VAZ-2101, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106).
First, let's decide on the quantity and type coolant, which we will fill in the car. As for the quantity, everything is simple here - according to the instructions, you need 9.85 liters, which means we are buying 10 liters of coolant... But with a view coolant to decide, it will not work out quickly. What to upload? Antifreeze or antifreeze? There is no consensus. As for me, I can advise you to use antifreeze... It can be bought ready-to-use or a concentrate and diluted with distilled water in a 50 to 50 ratio. I will not explain why antifreeze, if desired, on the site you can familiarize yourself with the material in which they are described. And using a Google search, you can find a lot of useful information on this topic.
As for the tool ... There will be enough spanner wrench for "13", a screwdriver and a container to drain the old coolant(the open-end wrench for "30" may still be useful).
The procedure for replacing the coolant in cars VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2103, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107, Zhiguli:
Before you start to drain the old coolant, it is necessary in the passenger compartment, put the heating valve control lever to the extreme right position (the valve is open). We unscrew the expansion tank cap and the radiator filler cap. In the lower corner of the radiator, we find the drain plug (photo 2), unscrew it and drain the liquid into a previously prepared container. Old-style radiators do not have such a plug. Instead, you will have to unscrew the fan switch on the sensor with the “30” key (photo 3). Also on the engine block, we find and unscrew the drain plug with a key on "13" (photo 1).
After the liquid is drained, screw the drain plugs back into place. And in order to avoid the formation of an air lock in the system, we release the clamp with a screwdriver and remove the rubber hose from the intake manifold fitting (photo 4).
Everything, you can fill antifreeze... As soon as liquid begins to flow from the fitting, you can put a hose on it and tighten the clamp. After that, completely fill the radiator and twist the cap. Next, pour antifreeze into the expansion tank (photo 5), the optimal level is 3-4 cm above the "MIN" mark.
We start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature. After that, we muffle and check the level again coolant... Top up if necessary antifreeze.
If the cooling system of the car is dirty, then it should be flushed with water or special means. The flushing procedure is the same as when replacing the fluid - we drain, fill and dilute, start the engine for a few minutes and drain. And so several times, until you see that clear water flows from the radiator and engine block.
When using an article or photos, an active direct hyperlink to the site www.!
The design of the cooling system is shown in Fig. 2-60.
CHECKING THE LIQUID LEVEL AND DENSITY IN THE COOLING SYSTEM
The correctness of filling the cooling system is checked by the liquid level in the expansion tank, which on a cold engine (at 15 - 20 ° C) should be 3 - 4 mm above the "MIN" mark on the expansion tank.
A WARNING
If necessary, check the density of the coolant with a hydrometer, which should be 1.078 - 1.085 g / cm3. At a low density and at a high density (more than 1.085 - 1.095 g / cm 3), the temperature of the beginning of crystallization of the liquid rises, which can lead to its freezing in cold weather of the year.
Rice. 2-60. Cooling system design:
If the liquid level in the tank is below normal, and the density is higher than normal, then add distilled water. If the density is normal, add liquid of the same density and grade as in the cooling system.
If the density of the liquid in the cooling system is below the norm, bring it to the norm using the TOSOL-A liquid.
FILLING THE COOLING SYSTEM WITH LIQUID
Refueling is done when changing the coolant or after repairing the engine. Carry out refueling operations in the following order:
Remove the plugs from the radiator and from the expansion tank and open the heater tap;
Pour coolant into the radiator, and then into the expansion tank, after installing the radiator cap. Close the expansion tank with a plug;
Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes to remove air pockets.
After the engine has cooled down, check the coolant level. If the level is below normal, and there are no signs of leakage in the cooling system, then add fluid.
ADJUSTING THE PUMP DRIVE BELT TENSION
The tension of the belt is checked by its deflection between the pulleys of the generator and the pump or between the pulleys of the pump and the crankshaft. With normal belt tension, deflection A (Fig. 2-61) under a force of 10 kgf (98 N) should be within 10-15 mm, and deflection B within 12-17 mm.
Rice. 2-61. Drive belt tension check circuitpump
To increase the belt tension, loosen the alternator mounting nuts, move it away from the engine and tighten the nuts.
COOLANT PUMP
Disassembly
To disassemble the pump:
Disconnect the pump casing 1 from the cover 2 (Fig. 2-62);
Rice. 2-62. Longitudinal section of the coolant pump:
1 - case; 2 - cover; 3 - nut for fastening the pump cover; 4 - fan; 5 - pulley hub; 6 - overlay; 7 - roller; 8 - pulley; 9 - bearing locking screw; 10 - bearing; 11 - stuffing box; 12 - impeller
Fasten the cover in a vise using spacers and remove the impeller from the roller with a puller A.40026; - remove the hub 2 (Fig. 2-64) of the fan pulley from the roller using a puller А.40005 / 1/5;
Rice. 2-64. Removing the pulley hub:
1 - pump casing cover; 2 - pulley hub; 3 - puller
Unscrew the locking screw 9 (Fig. 2-62) and take out the bearing with the pump shaft;
Remove the gland 11 from the cover 2 of the body.
Control
Check the axial clearance in the bearing (should not exceed 0.13 mm at a load of 49 N (5 kgf), especially if there is significant pump noise. If necessary, replace the bearing.
It is recommended to replace the pump oil seal and the gasket between the pump and the cylinder block during repairs.
Inspect the pump casing and cover, deformation or cracks are not allowed.
Assembly
Assemble the pump in the following order:
Install the oil seal with a mandrel, without skewing, into the housing cover;
Press the bearing with the roller into the cover so that the socket from the hatchet screw coincides with the hole in the pump housing cover;
Tighten the bearing retaining screw and stamp the outlines of the socket so that the screw does not loosen;
Press the pulley hub using the tool A.60430 (Fig. 2-65) onto the roller, keeping the dimension 84.4 ± 0.1 mm. If the hub is made of metal-ceramic, then after removal, press on only a new one;
1 - support; 2 - pump roller; 3 - pump casing cover; 4 - glass; 5 - set screw
Press the impeller onto the roller using the A.60430 tool, which provides a 0.9-1.3 mm technological gap between the impeller blades and the pump casing;
Assemble the pump housing with the cover by placing a gasket between them.
THERMOSTAT
At the thermostat, the temperature of the beginning of the opening of the main valve and the stroke of the main valve should be checked.
To do this, install the thermostat on the BS-106-000 stand by dropping it into a tank with water or coolant. From the bottom into the main valve 9 (Fig. 2-66), rest the bracket of the indicator leg.
Rice. 2-66. Thermostat:
1 - inlet pipe: (from the motor); 2 - bypass valve; 3 - bypass valve spring; 4 - glass; 5 - rubber insert; 6 - outlet branch pipe; 7 - spring of the main valve; 8 - main valve seat; 9 - main valve; 10 - holder; 11 - adjusting nut; 12 - piston; 13 - inlet pipe from the radiator; 14 - filler; 15 - clip. D - fluid inlet from the engine; Р - liquid inlet from the radiator; H - liquid outlet to the pump
The initial temperature of the liquid in the tank should be 73-75 ° C. The temperature of the liquid should be gradually increased by about 1 ° C per minute with gradual stirring so that it is the same throughout the volume of the liquid.
The temperature at which the valve starts to open is the one at which the stroke of the main valve is 0.1 mm.
The thermostat must be replaced if the opening temperature of the main valve is not within 81 - 45 ° C or the valve stroke is less than 6.0 mm.
The simplest thermostat test can be carried out by feeling directly on the car. After starting a cold engine with a working thermostat, the lower radiator tank should heat up when the arrow of the liquid temperature gauge is approximately 3-4 mm from the red zone of the scale, which corresponds to 80-85 ° C.
RADIATOR
Removal from the car
To remove the radiator from the car:
- drain the liquid from the radiator and the cylinder block by removing the drain plugs in the lower radiator tank and on the cylinder block; At the same time, open the body heater valve, and remove the radiator plug from the filler neck;
- disconnect the hoses from the radiator;
- remove the fan cover;
- unscrew the bolts securing the radiator to the body, remove the radiator from the engine compartment.
Leak test
The tightness of the radiator is checked in a water bath.
Having muffled the radiator pipes, supply air to it under a pressure of 0.1 MPa (1 kgf / cm 2) and lower it into a bath of water for at least 30 seconds. In this case, etching of air should not be observed.
Solder minor damage to the brass radiator with soft solder, and if significant, replace the radiator with a new one.
The operation of an internal combustion engine in any car is associated with high temperatures. The internal combustion engine heats up during the combustion of the fuel-air mixture in the cylinders and as a result of the friction of its elements. The cooling system helps to avoid overheating of the power unit.
General characteristics of the cooling system VAZ 2107
The VAZ 2107 engine of all models has a sealed liquid cooling system with forced circulation of the coolant (coolant).
Purpose of the cooling system
The cooling system is designed to maintain the optimum temperature of the power unit during its operation and timely and controlled removal of excess heat from the heating units. Individual elements of the system are used to heat the passenger compartment during the cold season.
Cooling system parameters
The cooling system of the VAZ 2107 has a number of parameters that affect the operation and performance of the power unit, the main of which are:
- the amount of coolant - regardless of the fuel supply method (carburetor or injection) and engine size, the same cooling system is used on all VAZ 2107. According to the manufacturer's requirements, 9.85 liters of refrigerant are required for its operation (including heating the passenger compartment). Therefore, when replacing antifreeze, you should immediately purchase a ten-liter container;
- engine operating temperature - The engine operating temperature depends on its type and volume, the type of fuel used, the number of crankshaft revolutions, etc. For the VAZ 2107, it is usually 80–95 0 C. The engine heats up to operating condition, depending on the ambient temperature within 4-7 minutes. In case of deviation from these values, it is recommended to immediately diagnose the cooling system;
- working pressure of the coolant - Since the cooling system of the VAZ 2107 is hermetically sealed, and the antifreeze expands when heated, a pressure is created inside the system that exceeds atmospheric. This is necessary to raise the boiling point of the coolant. So, if under normal conditions water boils at 100 0 C, then with an increase in pressure to 2 atm, the boiling point rises to 120 0 C. In a VAZ 2107 engine, the operating pressure is 1.2–1.5 atm. Thus, if the boiling point of modern coolants at atmospheric pressure is 120–130 0 C, then under operating conditions it will increase to 140–145 0 C.
The device of the cooling system VAZ 2107
The main components of the VAZ 2107 cooling system include:
- water pump (pump);
- main radiator;
- main radiator fan;
- interior heater (stove) radiator;
- stove tap;
- thermostat (thermostat);
- expansion tank;
- coolant temperature sensor;
- coolant temperature sensor pointer;
- control temperature sensor (only in injection engines);
- fan switch sensor (only in carburetor engines);
- connecting pipes.
This should also include the engine cooling jacket - a system of special channels in the cylinder block and the block head through which coolant circulates.
Video: device and operation of the engine cooling system
Water pump (pump)
The pump is designed to provide continuous forced circulation of coolant through the engine cooling jacket during engine operation. It is a conventional centrifugal pump that pumps antifreeze into the cooling system using an impeller. The pump is located on the front of the cylinder block and is driven by the crankshaft pulley through a V-belt.
Pump design
The pump consists of:
How the pump works
The operating principle of a water pump is quite simple. When the crankshaft rotates, the belt drives the pump pulley, transmitting torque to the impeller. The latter, rotating, creates a certain coolant pressure inside the housing, forcing it to circulate inside the system. The bearing is designed for uniform shaft rotation and friction reduction, and the oil seal ensures the tightness of the device.
Pump malfunctions
The pump resource for the VAZ 2107 regulated by the manufacturer is 50-60 thousand kilometers. However, this resource may decrease in the following situations:
- use of low-quality coolant or water;
- ingress of dirt, impurities, foreign objects into the cooling system;
- excessive tension on the drive belt.
The result of the influence of these factors are:
- impeller wear;
- wear or damage to the stuffing box;
- misalignment of the pump shaft with subsequent wear of the bearing and possible jamming of the device.
When such malfunctions are detected.
Main radiator
The radiator is designed to cool the coolant entering it due to heat exchange with the environment. This is achieved due to the peculiarities of its design. The radiator is mounted in the front of the engine compartment on two rubber cushions and is attached to the body with two studs with nuts.
Radiator design
The radiator consists of two vertically positioned tanks and pipes connecting them. Thin plates (lamellas) accelerating the heat transfer process are located on the tubes. One of the tanks is equipped with a filler neck with a sealed stopper. The neck has a valve and is connected to the expansion tank with a thin rubber hose. In carburetor VAZ 2107 engines, a seat is provided in the radiator for a sensor for turning on the cooling system fan. There is no such socket in models with injection engines.
The principle of the radiator
Cooling can be carried out both naturally and forcibly. In the first case, the coolant temperature is reduced by blowing the radiator with an oncoming air flow while driving. In the second case, the air flow is created by a fan attached directly to the radiator.
Radiator malfunctions
Failure of a radiator is most often associated with a loss of tightness as a result of mechanical damage or corrosion of pipes. In addition, the pipes can become clogged with dirt, deposits and impurities in the antifreeze, and the circulation of the coolant will be disrupted.
If a leak is found, the place of damage can be attempted to be soldered with a powerful soldering iron using a special flux and solder. Clogged tubing can be removed by flushing with reactive chemicals. As such substances, solutions of phosphoric or citric acid are used, as well as some household products for cleaning the sewage system.
Cooling fan
The fan is designed for forced blowing of the radiator. It turns on automatically when the coolant temperature rises to a certain value. In VAZ 2107 carburetor engines, a special sensor installed in the main radiator is responsible for turning on the fan. In injection power units, its operation is controlled by an electronic controller, based on the readings of a temperature sensor. The fan is fixed to the main radiator casing with a special bracket.
Fan design
The fan is a conventional DC motor with a plastic impeller mounted on the rotor. It is the impeller that creates the air flow and directs it to the radiator fins.
The voltage to power the fan is supplied from the generator through a relay and a fuse.
Fan malfunctions
The main fan faults include:
- broken wiring;
- failure of the relay;
- open or short circuit in the stator windings;
- wear of the collector brushes.
To check the functionality, the fan is connected directly to the battery.
Radiator and stove tap
The heater radiator is designed to heat the air entering the passenger compartment. In addition, the heating system of the passenger compartment includes a stove fan and dampers that regulate the direction and intensity of the air flow.
Stove radiator design
The stove radiator has the same design as the main heat exchanger. It consists of two tanks and connecting pipes through which the coolant flows. To accelerate heat transfer, the tubes have thin lamellas.
To stop the supply of warm air to the passenger compartment in summer, the stove radiator is equipped with a special tap that blocks the coolant circulation in the heating system. The crane is operated by a cable and a lever located on the front panel.
The principle of operation of the heater radiator
When the stove valve is open, hot coolant enters the radiator and heats the tubes with lamellas. The air streams passing through the radiator of the stove also heat up and enter the passenger compartment through the air duct system. When the tap is closed, coolant is not supplied to the radiator.
Malfunctions of the radiator and stove tap
The most common radiator and stove faucet breakdowns are:
- leakage caused by mechanical damage or corrosion;
- clogged radiator tubes;
- souring of the valve locking mechanism.
The stove radiator can be repaired in the same ways as the main heat exchanger. If the crane malfunctions, it is replaced with a new one.
Thermostat
The thermostat maintains the required thermal mode of the engine and reduces the time it warms up at startup. It is located to the left of the pump and is connected to it using a short pipe.
Thermostat design
The thermostat consists of:
The thermocouple is a sealed metal cylinder filled with special paraffin. Inside this cylinder is a stem that actuates the main valve of the thermostat. The body of the device has three fittings, to which the underwater hose from the pump, bypass and outlet pipes are connected.
How the thermostat works
When the coolant temperature is below 80 0 C, the main thermostat valve is closed, and the bypass valve is open. In this case, the coolant moves in a small circle bypassing the main radiator. Antifreeze flows from the engine cooling jacket through a thermostat to the pump and then back into the engine. This is necessary in order for the motor to warm up faster.
When the coolant heats up to 80–82 0 C, the main thermostat valve starts to open. When the antifreeze heats up to 94 0 C, this valve opens completely, and the bypass valve, on the contrary, closes. In this case, the coolant moves from the engine to the cooling radiator, then to the pump and back to the cooling jacket.
Thermostat malfunctions
If the thermostat fails, the engine can both overheat and slower to warm up to operating temperature. This is the result of valve jamming. It is not difficult to check the operation of the thermostat. To do this, you need to start a cold engine, let it run for two or three minutes and touch your hand to the pipe that runs from the thermostat to the radiator. It must be cold. If the pipe is warm, then the main valve is constantly in the open position, which, in turn, will lead to a slow warming up of the engine. Conversely, when the main valve blocks the flow of coolant to the radiator, the lower pipe will be hot and the upper pipe will be cold. As a result, the engine will overheat and the antifreeze will boil.
You can more accurately diagnose a thermostat malfunction by removing it from the engine and checking the behavior of the valves in hot water. To do this, it is placed in any heat-resistant container filled with water and heated by measuring the temperature with a thermometer. If the main valve starts to open at 80–82 0 C, and fully opens at 94 0 C, then the thermostat is working properly. Otherwise, the thermostat is out of order and needs to be replaced.
Expansion tank
Since antifreeze increases in volume when heated, the design of the VAZ 2107 cooling system provides for a special reservoir for accumulating excess coolant - an expansion tank (RB). It is located on the right side of the engine in the engine compartment and has a translucent plastic housing.
Tank design
RB is a plastic sealed container with a lid. To maintain a close to atmospheric pressure in the tank, a rubber valve is installed in the lid. In the lower part of the RB there is a fitting to which a hose is connected from the neck of the main radiator.
On one of the walls of the reservoir there is a special scale for assessing the coolant level in the system.
The principle of the tank
When the coolant heats up and expands, overpressure builds up in the radiator. When it rises by 0.5 atm, the throat valve opens and the excess antifreeze begins to flow into the tank. There, the pressure is stabilized by a rubber valve in the cover.
Tank malfunctions
All RB malfunctions are associated with mechanical damage and subsequent depressurization or failure of the cover valve. In the first case, the entire tank is changed, and in the second, you can do with replacing the lid.
Temperature sensor and fan switch
In carburetor models VAZ 2107, the cooling system includes a sensor for a liquid temperature gauge and a sensor for turning on the fan. The first is installed in the cylinder block and is designed to control the temperature and transmit the information received to the dashboard. The fan switch is located at the bottom of the radiator and serves to supply power to the fan motor when the antifreeze reaches a temperature of 92 0 C.
The cooling system of injection engines also has two sensors. The functions of the first are similar to those of the temperature sensor of carburetor power units. The second sensor transmits data to the electronic control unit, which controls the on-off process of the radiator fan.
Sensor malfunctions and how to diagnose them
Most often, the sensors of the cooling system stop working normally due to problems with the wiring or due to the failure of their working (sensitive) element. You can check them for serviceability using a multimeter.
The operation of the fan activation sensor is based on the properties of the bimetal. When heated, the thermoelement changes its shape and closes the electrical circuit. As it cools, it returns to its normal position and stops the flow of electric current. To check, the sensor is placed in a container with water, after having connected the probes of the multimeter, which is turned on in the tester mode, to its terminals. Next, the container is heated by controlling the temperature. At 92 0 C, the circuit should close, which should be reported by the device. When the temperature drops to 87 0 C, a working sensor will open the circuit.
The temperature sensor has a slightly different principle of operation, based on the dependence of the resistance on the temperature of the medium in which the sensitive element is placed. The sensor test consists in measuring the resistance at a changing temperature. A working sensor at different temperatures should have different resistance:
- 20 0 C - 3.5 kΩ;
- 40 0 C - 1.5 kΩ;
- 60 0 C - 0.67 kOhm;
- 90 0 C - 0.25 kOhm.
To check, the temperature sensor is placed in a container with water, which gradually heats up, and its resistance is measured with a multimeter in ohmmeter mode.
Antifreeze temperature gauge
The coolant temperature gauge is located in the lower left side of the instrument cluster. It is a colored arc divided into three sectors: white, green and red. If the engine is cold, the arrow is in the white sector. When the engine warms up to operating temperature and subsequent operation in normal mode, the arrow moves to the green sector. If the arrow goes to the red sector, the engine is overheated. In this case, it is highly undesirable to continue driving.
Connecting pipes
The pipes are used to connect the individual elements of the cooling system and are ordinary rubber hoses with reinforced walls. Four pipes are used to cool the engine:
In addition, the cooling system includes the following connecting hoses:
- supply and removal of coolant from the heater radiator;
- drainage of liquid from the inlet pipeline;
- connections between the radiator neck and the expansion tank.
The pipes and hoses are fastened with clamps (spiral or worm gear). To remove or install them, it is enough to loosen or tighten the clamp mechanism with a screwdriver or pliers.
Coolant
As a coolant for the VAZ 2107, the manufacturer recommends using exclusively antifreeze. For the uninitiated motorist, antifreeze and antifreeze are the same thing. Antifreeze is usually called all coolants without exception, regardless of where and when they are released. Antifreeze is a type of antifreeze produced in the USSR. The name is an abbreviation for “Separate Laboratory Organic Synthesis Technology”. All coolants, without exception, contain ethylene glycol and water. The differences are only in the type and amount of added anti-corrosion, anti-cavitation and antifoam additives. Therefore, for the VAZ 2107, the name of the coolant does not really matter.
The danger is posed by cheap low-quality coolants or outright fakes, which have recently become widespread and are often found on sale. The result of using such fluids can be not only radiator leakage, but also failure of the entire engine. Therefore, to cool the engine, you should buy coolant from proven and well-proven manufacturers.
Find out how to change the coolant yourself:
The possibilities of tuning the cooling system of the VAZ 2107
There are various ways to improve the efficiency of the VAZ 2107 cooling system. Someone installs a fan from Kalina or Priora on the radiator, someone is trying to warm up the interior better by supplementing the system with an electric pump from a Gazelle, and someone puts silicone pipes, believing that with them the engine will warm up faster and cool down. However, the feasibility of such tuning is highly questionable. The cooling system of the VAZ 2107 itself is pretty well thought out. If all its elements are in good working order, the engine will never overheat in summer, and in winter it will be warm in the cabin without turning on the stove fan. To do this, you only need to periodically pay attention to the maintenance of the system, namely:
- pour only high-quality coolant into the engine;
- change the coolant every 50 thousand km of run with a complete drain and flushing of the system;
- monitor the coolant level and, if necessary, top up it;
- when refilling, in no case mix antifreeze with antifreeze;
- when replacing defective elements, use only quality certified parts.
Thus, the cooling system of the VAZ 2107 is quite reliable and simple. Nevertheless, it also needs periodic maintenance, which even an inexperienced car enthusiast can perform.
The engine cooling system is liquid, closed type, with forced circulation of liquid. The capacity of the system is 9, 85 liters, including the heating system of the interior of the body. The cooling system consists of the following elements: a coolant pump 36, a radiator, an expansion tank 8, pipes and hoses, a fan 19, block cooling jackets and a cylinder head. When the engine is running, the liquid heated in the cooling jackets enters through the outlet 6 through hoses 5 and 7 into the radiator or thermostat, depending on the position of the thermostat valves. Next, the coolant is sucked in by the pump 36 and supplied again to the cooling jacket. The cooling system uses a special liquid TOSOL A-40 - an aqueous solution of Tosol-A antifreeze (concentrated ethylene glycol with anticorrosive and antifoam additives with a density of 1, 12-1, 14 g / cm2). TOSOL A-40 blue with a density of 1, 078-1, 085 g / cm2, has a freezing point of minus 40 C. The coolant level is checked on a cold engine (at a temperature of plus 15-20 C) according to the liquid level in the expansion tank 8, which should be 3-4 mm above the "MIN" mark. The density of the liquid is checked with a hydrometer during vehicle maintenance. With an increase in the density of the liquid and a lower level, distilled water is topped up. At normal density, the liquid of the brand that is in the cooling system is topped up. With a reduced density of the coolant and the need to operate the car in the cold season, the fluid is replaced with a new one. To monitor the coolant temperature, there is a sensor installed in the cylinder head and an indicator on the instrument panel. Under normal temperature conditions of the engine operation, the pointer arrow stands at the beginning of the red field of the scale within 80-100 C. The transition of the arrow to the red zone indicates an increased thermal regime of the engine, which may be caused by malfunctions in the cooling system (weakening of the pump drive belt, insufficient cooling liquid or thermostat malfunction), as well as difficult road conditions. The fluid from the system is drained through the drain holes closed with plugs: one in the left corner of the lower radiator tank 33, the other in the cylinder block to the left in the direction of the vehicle. The car's interior heater is connected to the cooling system. The heated fluid from the cylinder head enters through hose 4 through the heater radiator tap, and is sucked off by pump 36 through hose 3 and pipe 1. The coolant pump is a centrifugal type, driven from the crankshaft pulley by a V-belt to drive the generator. The pump is attached to the cylinder block on the right side through a gasket with bolts with a tightening torque of 22-27 Im (2.2-2.7 kgcm). The body 30 and cover 25 of the pump are cast from an aluminum alloy. A roller 27 is installed in the cover in a bearing 24, which is locked by a screw 28. Bearing 24 is double-row. non-separable, without an inner cage. The bearing is filled with grease during assembly and is not greased in the future. On the roller 27, on one side, an impeller 31 is pressed, and on the other, the hub 26 of the pump drive pulley. Impeller end. in contact with the O-ring, hardened by high frequency currents to a depth of 3 mm. The O-ring is pressed against the impeller by a spring through a rubber cuff 29. The oil seal is non-separable, consists of an outer brass cage 23, a rubber cuff and a spring. The oil seal is pressed into the pump cover 25. The pump housing has an inlet 32 and a window 22 towards the cylinder block for pumping coolant. With normal tension of the pump drive V-belt, the belt deflection under a force of 100 N (10 kgf) should be in the range of 10-15 mm. Fan The fan 19 is a four-blade impeller made of plastic, which is bolted to the hub 26 of the pump drive pulley. The fan blades have a radially variable installation angle and, to reduce noise, a variable step along the hub. For better efficiency, the fan is housed in a shroud 18. bolted to the radiator brackets. Radiator and expansion tank. Radiator with upper 14 and lower 33 tanks, with two rows of brass vertical tubes 16 and tinned cooling plates 17 is attached with four bolts to the front end of the body and rests on rubber supports 21. The filler neck 15 of the radiator is closed with a stopper AND and is connected by a hose 10 with a translucent plastic expansion tank 8. The radiator plug has an inlet valve 13 and an outlet valve 12, through which the radiator is connected with a hose to the expansion tank. The inlet valve is not pressed against the gasket (clearance 0.5-1.1 mm) and allows the inlet and outlet of coolant to the expansion tank when the engine is heated and cooled. When a liquid boils or a sharp increase in temperature due to a small throughput, the inlet valve does not have time to release liquid into the expansion tank and closes, disconnecting the cooling system from the expansion tank. When the pressure increases when the liquid is heated to 50 kPa, the outlet valve 12 opens and a part of the coolant is discharged into the expansion tank. The expansion tank is closed with a plug, which has a rubber valve that operates at a pressure close to atmospheric. Since 1988, radiators with aluminum cores made of two rows of horizontal circular aluminum tubes and aluminum cooling plates began to be installed on the engines of VAZ2105, -2104 cars. Two-way radiator with plastic tanks and nozzles for connecting hoses. One of the tanks has a partition. The radiator is collapsible, the core is attached to the tanks through rubber gaskets. To increase the efficiency of liquid cooling, aluminum cooling plates are stamped with a notch, and plastic turbulators in the form of corkscrews are inserted into some of the tubes. All this ensures the turbulent movement of air and liquid in the tubes. It must be remembered that it is not recommended to use water in the cooling system as a coolant with aluminum radiators in order to prevent corrosion of the aluminum pipes. Thermostat and Cooling System Operation The coolant thermostat accelerates engine warm-up and maintains the required engine temperature. Under optimal thermal conditions, the coolant temperature should be 85-95 "C. Thermostat 38 consists of a body 43 and a cover 46, which are seamed together with the seat of the main valve 41. The thermostat has an inlet 40 for inlet of cooled liquid from the radiator, a bypass hose 44 5 for bypassing fluid from the cylinder head to the thermostat and a branch pipe 45 for supplying coolant to the pump 36. The main valve is installed in the thermoelement cup, in which the rubber insert 39 is rolled. The rubber insert contains a polished steel piston 47, fixed on a stationary holder. a thermosensitive solid filler is placed by walls and a rubber insert. The main valve 41 is pressed against the seat by a spring. Two posts are attached to the valve, on which a bypass valve 42 is installed. through the radiator or bypassing it. On a cold engine, when the coolant temperature is below 80 C, the main valve is closed, the bypass valve is open. In this case, the liquid circulates through the hose 5 through the bypass valve 42 to the pump 36, bypassing the radiator (in a small circle). This ensures that the engine warms up quickly. If the temperature of the liquid rises above 94 ° C, the thermostat's temperature-sensitive filler expands, compresses the rubber insert 39 and squeezes out the piston 47, moving the main valve 41 until it is fully open. The bypass valve 42 closes completely. In this case, the liquid circulates in a large circle: from the cooling jacket through the hose 7 to the radiator and then through the hose 34 through the main valve enters the pump, which is again directed to the cooling jacket. Within the temperature range of 80-94 C, the thermostat valves are in intermediate positions, and the coolant circulates in small and large circles. The opening value of the main valve ensures gradual mixing of the liquid cooled in the radiator, thereby achieving the best thermal mode of the engine operation. The temperature of the beginning of the opening of the main thermostat valve should be within 77-86 C, the valve stroke should be at least 6 mm. Checking the start of opening of the main valve is performed in a water tank. The initial water temperature should be 73-75UC. The water temperature is gradually increased by 1 ° C per minute. The temperature at which the valve starts opening is taken as the temperature at which the stroke of the main valve is 0.1 mm. The simplest test of the thermostat operation can be carried out by touch directly on the car. With a working thermostat, after starting a cold engine, the lower radiator tank begins to heat up when the arrow of the liquid temperature gauge on the instrument panel is approximately 3-4 mm from the red zone of the scale, which corresponds to a coolant temperature of 80-95 C.
11 1. Pipes for draining fluid from the heater radiator to the coolant pump. 2. Hose for removing the coolant from the inlet pipe. 3. Hose for removing coolant from the heater radiator. 4. Hose for supplying fluid to the heater radiator. 5. Thermostat bypass hose. 6. Cooling jacket outlet. 7. Radiator supply hose. 8. Expansion tank. 9. Tank cap. 10. Hose from the radiator to the expansion tank. 11. Radiator cap. 12. The outlet (steam) valve of the plug. 13. Inlet valve plug. 14. Upper radiator reservoir. 15. Radiator filler neck. 16. Radiator tube. 17. Radiator cooling plates. 18. Fan shroud. 19. Fan. 20. Pulley of the drive of the coolant pump. 21. Rubber mount. 22. Window on the side of the cylinder block for supplying coolant. 23. Oil seal holder. 24. Coolant pump roller bearing. 25. Pump cover. 26. Fan wheel hub. 27. Pump roller. 28. Locking screw. 29. Oil seal collar. 30. Pump casing. 31. Pump impeller. 32. The inlet of the pump. 33. Lower radiator tank. 34. Outlet radiator hose. 35. Radiator belt. 36. Coolant pump. 37. Hose for supplying coolant to the pump. 38. Thermostat. 39. Rubber insert. 40. Inlet pipe (from the radiator). 41. Main valve. 42. Bypass valve. 43. Thermostat housing. 44. Branch pipe of the bypass hose. 45. Branch pipe of a hose for supplying coolant to the pump. 46. Thermostat cover. 47. Piston of the working element. 48. I. Scheme of the thermostat. 49. II. The liquid temperature is less than 80 C. 50. III. The liquid temperature is 80-94 C. 51. IV. The liquid temperature is more than 94 C.
5 years ago
Welcome!
Coolant - in essence, it plays a very important role in the cooling system of your engine, because if it is not there, then the car will not be able to work for a long time without stopping it. And thanks to the coolant, the car's engine is constantly cooled, thereby prolonging the life of your car's engine.
But over time, the liquid becomes unusable, and therefore it will need to be replaced. Today, just the same, we will consider the process of replacing the coolant on cars of the "Classic" family.
Note!
To replace, you will need the following tools: First, you will need to take a "13" spanner with you, and you will also need to stock up on an empty container of "10" liters, and it is also recommended to take a clean rag with you!
Summary:
Question?
What kind of coolant do you prefer to fill in your car engine, and why? (Write the answer in the comments)
When should the coolant be changed?
It must be replaced when:
- Passage by a car "60 thousand km" or when passing 2 years from the date of filling. (Whichever comes first)
- And also the liquid should be replaced if it has changed its own color to any other. (In most cases, it changes its color to reddish)
How to replace the coolant on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107?
Draining:
1) First, drive the car into a hole.
Note!
The car should be level, or the front should be higher than the rear, but not vice versa!
3) Next, move all the way to the right, the lever that opens the supply of warm air to the car interior, in the "VAZ 2106" such a lever is located on top and in the photo it is marked with the letter "A".
5) Then unscrew the radiator filler cap, which is also indicated by an arrow in the photo below.
6) Now unscrew the drain plug, which is located on the cylinder block.
Note!
After you unscrew the drain plug, which is located on the cylinder block, immediately place a bottle under this hole and drain all the waste liquid into it!
7) Then unscrew the radiator drain plug, and drain all the waste liquid from the radiator into the bottle.
8) Next, unfasten the belt that secures the expansion tank, and then lift the tank up, as a result of which the remaining coolant will drain from it and from the hose that is connected to it, which will drain through the radiator drain hole.
Filling:
1) First, install the radiator tank in place, and also screw the drain plug of the cylinder block and the drain plug of the radiator.
2) Then pour new coolant into the radiator.
3) Next, pour new fluid into the radiator expansion tank.
Note!
Pour new coolant into the expansion tank, just 3-4 cm above the MIN mark!
5) Now screw the radiator cap and the expansion tank cap back on.
6) Then start the car and let it idle for about 4-5 minutes, after 4-5 minutes of operation, stop the car and add coolant to the expansion tank and radiator to the required level.
Important!
- Change the coolant, only when the engine is cold!
- The liquid is very toxic, so you only need to replace it outdoors or in a well-ventilated area!
- After about three days have passed after the replacement, check the fluid level, if possible, bring it to the required norm!
Additional video clip:
Don't you know where the expansion tank is? And also do not understand where the drain plug is located on the cylinder block? See the video below for answers to all these questions:
