The battery selection service allows you to select a battery for your car according to the following parameters: capacity, polarity, terminals (standard, non-standard), size (length, height, width), cold load current.

Knowing these parameters, you can easily choose the right brand of battery for your car brand.

The database contains about 100 brands and over 1000 car models. The total number is 23,000 models.

CRITERIA FOR SELECTING BATTERIES

The importance of the storage battery cannot be overemphasized. The stability of starting the engine and the health of the electrical equipment of the machine depend on its serviceability.

The wrong choice of power supply can lead to a number of operational problems and additional costs in the future. But it is easy to avoid problems - just understand the battery parameters and use the knowledge in the buying process.

Capacity

The stability and duration of a battery's operation largely depends on its capacity - an indicator that characterizes the amount of electrical energy supplied by a power source over a certain period of time.

So, a capacity of 40 A * h indicates the ability of the battery to supply a load with a current of 1 A for forty hours or with a current of 2 A, but already for 20 hours.

Capacity is of two types:

• Nominal - a parameter typical for a 20-hour discharge. It is this indicator that is spelled out on the label of the power source. For the Russian market, this requirement corresponds to GOST 959-91. To calculate the nominal capacity, the device is discharged within 20 hours with 5% current of the nominal capacity parameter. For example, for a 20 A * h battery, the discharge current is 1 A. The discharge process stops when the voltage reaches the 10.5 Volt mark (for a 12-volt power supply).
• Reserve - capacity typical for batteries sold in the American market. The reserve capacity reflects how long the battery delivers a current of 25 A. Measurements are made at a temperature of 27 degrees Celsius. So, for a power source with a capacity of 55 A * h, this parameter reaches one and a half hours. If the generator fails, the car will be able to move for the mentioned period of time.

Power

An equally important criterion for choosing a battery is the output power provided by a power source. The parameter is measured under two conditions:

1. Ambient air temperature - 18 degrees Celsius;
2. Measurement time - half a minute.

According to this parameter, experts judge the ability of the battery to start a cold engine.

The calculation is made according to the formula: P = I * U, where U is the parameter of the discharge voltage, calculated as an arithmetic mean, and I is the starter discharge current.

If we consider the power parameter for lead-acid batteries, then the speed of cranking the engine crankshaft by the starter depends on it.

It turns out that the more power the power source has, the higher the output starting current.

The starter discharge with a certain current (determined by the manufacturer) shows how long the battery can supply the starter to start the power unit.

The optimal power of the battery is determined by the developers of the starting system, taking into account the tests carried out.

The final parameter is recorded in the technical passport of the machine. It is for it that it is recommended to select a new power source.

Polarity

When buying a battery, pay attention to such criterion as polarity. If you make the wrong choice, then the wires may simply not reach the terminals.

There are two types of polarity - forward and backward. In the first case, "minus" is on the right side, and "plus", respectively, on the left.

Otherwise, the polarity is reversed.

The first type of polarity is typical for batteries produced in the CIS countries, and the second - for the countries of the European continent and the United States.

Terminals

The mistake of novice car enthusiasts is insufficient attention to the type of terminals, which may differ in thickness and type of fastening.

So, in European batteries, the thickness of the "plus" is 19.5 mm, and the "minus" - 17.9 mm.

In the Asian version (Japan and Korea) - 12.7 and 11.1, respectively. It turns out that an Asian battery can be installed on any car, but a power source from Europe cannot be supplied to an Asian car - you will have to change the terminals.

In addition, some older cars use a bolt-on type.

Remember one more important thing - in batteries up to 110 A * h, the terminals are on the long side.

Dimensions (length, height, width)

An equally important criterion is overall dimensions. In order to be correct, measure the height, length and width of the old power supply before purchasing a new device.

It is important that the width corresponds to the factory setting, but the height and length may differ within a small range.

This is due to the fact that in most of the models, the battery is fastened using the lower protrusions on the sides of the device. Do not overdo it with the height, because if the parameter is too high, the hood may not close.

Starting current (cold cranking current)

The amount of starting current depends on many parameters. It happens that batteries of the same capacity and dimensions have different cold cranking currents.

The reason is that this parameter increases with an increase in the porosity of the used lead plates, an increase in their number, or in the case of the use of phosphoric acid in the composition of the paste.

Increased starting current is typically found in diesel powered vehicles. So, a battery with a capacity of 55 A * h for a gasoline engine has a starting current of 255 A, and a battery for a "diesel" with the same capacity - 300 A * h.

If, upon purchase, you find that the cold cranking current is higher than the recommended parameter (if the rest of the indicators are consistent), then this is only a plus. This battery will crank the engine better in cold weather. Use this knowledge when.

Do not be afraid that this parameter will negatively affect the state of the electrical elements of the car. All that the starting current affects is the quality and reliability of starting the power unit.

Regardless of this parameter, the voltage on the battery remains unchanged.

Flooded or dry-charged battery

A big plus for motorists is that when buying a rechargeable battery, the device is ready for use and does not require additional training.

Now there is no need to carry the power supply to the garage and fill it with electrolyte. Everything you need is already in the device.

The manufacturer, as a rule, uses only high-quality electrolyte with a minimum content of impurities. But still, when buying a flooded battery, its quality is worth checking.

In addition, problems are also possible with the choice of a high-quality electrolyte.

As for the dry-charged battery, here the characteristics can be determined only after installation and start of operation.

These batteries are worth buying if you don't plan to put them into operation right away.

The main advantage of dry-charged power supplies is their long shelf life, which is 3-5 years, with a guarantee that their original qualities will be preserved. The only exception is the loss of dry charge during the first year of operation after removal from storage.

The disadvantage of a dry-charged battery is that it cannot be used without preliminary preparation. Before installing the device on the machine, the banks of the device are filled with electrolyte, after which it is worth waiting for the impregnation for 30-60 minutes.

To avoid problems, additionally pay attention to the following criteria:

• Integrity of the battery case;
• The presence of a label with all parameters (power, capacity, etc.).

Serviced or not serviced

All batteries are conventionally divided into two categories:

Serviced batteries.

Devices in which you can physically unscrew the cork from the cans, evaluate the contents and add technical fluid (if necessary).

The following actions are also available to the car owner:

• Visual inspection of lead plates;
• Checking the electrolyte condition;
• Density measurement;
• Assessment of the electrolyte level in each of the cans.

The main advantage of such a battery is the ability to monitor its condition and the availability of repair (if necessary).

But serviced power supplies have a number of disadvantages:

• Due to the lack of tightness, the technical liquid can boil off or evaporate (especially in hot weather).
• If the level of the electrochemical liquid drops, it will no longer be possible to start the car.
• On the open part of the plates, the sulfation process occurs quickly.
• The owner has to constantly monitor the electrolyte level (especially in the summer).
• Evaporation of the acid leads to the appearance of a white coating on the surface of the battery. This increases the risk of terminal bridging.
• In summer, water evaporates first, which leads to an increase in the density of the acid. As a result, the plates break down faster.

Thus, the serviced battery is partly a headache for motorists, because they have to check the electrolyte level at least once every 2-3 weeks, and the shelf life of such devices did not exceed 2-3 years (with incorrect operation, the total is less).

Maintenance-free battery.

Power supply with six packs of plates and electrolyte in a sealed plastic casing. Such a device has no traffic jams.

If the electrochemical liquid boils, then it rises in the form of vapor, condenses, and then flows down. For beginners, such a device is the best option, because there are no problems with maintenance.

On the other hand, there are also disadvantages:

• There is no way to control the state of the electrochemical liquid;
• If the electrolyte level drops, there is no way to top it up;
• In case of failure of any of the cans, you will have to discard the entire battery.

The inability to add electrolyte and maintenance of the battery reduces its service life. In the event of a defect in the electrical equipment of the machine, the maintenance-free battery may fail and will no longer be subject to restoration.

An article on how to choose a battery for a car brand - important parameters and aspects when buying a battery. At the end of the article - an interesting video about choosing a battery.

The content of the article:

Any motorist can face the problem of replacing the battery, whether he has a new car or one that already has a certain mileage. A rare owner operates the equipment correctly, protects it from sudden temperature changes and overloads, and regularly monitors the condition of the battery. Therefore, not every battery develops its resource, starting to show malfunctions after 3-4 years.

Those owners who service their vehicles in a certified car service are relieved of the need to look for a battery on their own. Service station specialists will install exactly the battery that is recommended in the instructions.

Although this service will be very expensive for the driver, he will be confident in the reliability of the unit and in compliance with its technical parameters.

If the owner prefers to choose the battery himself, he should carefully read the recommendations of the manufacturer of his car, so as not to freeze in the cold later when trying to start the engine.

Key parameters of batteries

Each car brand gives its own recommendations for the maintenance of its models, which can be read in the operating instructions.

The basic principles for choosing a battery, based on the type of body and engine size, are as follows:

• on cars with a hatchback body and a sedan with a 1.6-liter engine, batteries are suitable for 45-55 Ampere / hour;
• for station wagons, having a volume of 1.3 to 1.9 liters, there are 60 Amp / hour batteries;
• for SUVs and crossovers with engines of 1.5-2.3 liters, at least 66 Amperes / hour is required;
• for trucks there are batteries from 77 Amperes / hour or more.

The rest of the indicators that you should pay attention to when buying a battery are as follows:

Rated voltage

If a freight vehicle requires a powerful battery of at least 24 volts, then 12-volt batteries are traditionally developed for cars.

Battery capacity

One of the most important parameters when choosing a battery, as it shows the amount of energy that will be accumulated during charging. Its maximum volume is indicated on the body in the form of a marking of the "6CT-55" type, where:

• the first digit indicates the number of batteries in the battery;
• the letters indicate the purpose, in this case the starter battery;
• the second digit is just the size of the container in Ampere-hours.

It is recommended not to chase a large volume, but to purchase a battery with such an amount of energy, which is necessary for the car in terms of technical parameters. Such a battery will not harm the car, but will not justify the investment in it.

Starting current

The amount of current supplied to the starter when starting the engine must be selected carefully and carefully. If it exceeds the level for which the starter is designed, its winding may burn out. If the force is insufficient, the starter will not start.

The starting current is not a stable value, since it depends on many related indicators: the capacity of the battery, the level of its charge, the quality of contact with the terminals, even on the air temperature. The size of the starting current is indicated on the battery label and is calculated at a temperature of +18 degrees.

Since in winter the current strength can decrease and start the engine more slowly, it is allowed in especially cold regions to purchase a battery a couple of tens of amperes higher than necessary in order to have a margin in case of frost.

Some drivers have doubts about the different current measurement standards. The fact is that its value can be indicated in the European equivalent EN, German DIN, American SAE or Russian GOST. Not to get confused, you can ask the seller of a specialized store for a table of standards and select the required parameter.

Polarity

This indicator is important in that when selecting a battery with the wrong polarity, its wires may not be enough to put on the terminals.

Polarity - the position of the negative and positive electrodes - can be different:

• straight when the positive terminal is on the left;
• the opposite, when, respectively, on the right.

It looks like this, for example: 60 (1) Ah - left plus.
Terminals can vary in thickness, since European terminals have a standard thickness, but Asian ones will be significantly thinner. In order for the battery to be securely attached and fit in size, it is important to take into account similar features of different manufacturers.

Manufacturer

• Exide is a world-renowned company, a leader in this industry. The batteries he produces are very expensive, but they deserve it. Even in active operation in any weather, for example, in a taxi service, such batteries will last at least 5-7 years;
• two German manufacturers - Varta and Bosch- are ideal for their own car industry, where they serve for a long time without complaints;
• Medalist is a joint venture between the United States and South Korea, whose products are developed for Korean cars;
• Mutlu and InciAku- these are Turkish firms, whose quality is at the highest level and suits different car brands;
• Westa- Dnipropetrovsk plant producing batteries of the middle price segment (Vortex, Forse);
• A-Mega Is a Ukrainian manufacturer whose products are purchased by FIAT factories.

We should also mention such companies as Slovenian Topla, American American, Belarusian Zubr, Russian Source of Toka Kurskiy.

For the domestic auto industry, Russian batteries will be enough, whose work is not much worse than imported counterparts, but the cost is much lower.

Although in the context of storage batteries, the price really matters, since cheap batteries very often do not serve not only the prescribed period, but even do not even reach the end of the warranty. Since the battery is not the equipment on which to save money, it is better to give preference to reputable manufacturers.

Year of issue

The date of manufacture is printed on the battery case or on the label in the form of a simple numerical code or supplemented with alphabetic and even color values. Each manufacturer marks products in its own way, but you need to pay attention only to the first group of numbers. So, in the designation "0317 2 28674" the date will be encrypted - March 2017.

Excessively large or insufficient battery capacity will somehow affect the functioning of the battery itself. As mentioned above, there is the possibility of burning the wiring and starter motor when the amperage is too high.

An unnecessarily large battery capacity will lead to regular undercharging, since the generator will not be able to generate the voltage required to charge the battery. Gradually, the electrolyte will turn white, the battery will be discharged, and the engine will start getting worse and worse.

In the opposite situation, when the battery has a lower capacity, it will be recharged, which will cause the batteries to short out and the plates to fall off. In this case, a darkening of the electrolyte to a brown color will become a symptom of an incorrectly selected battery.

Since the battery is a warranty product, the seller is obliged to check it as much as possible before selling it to the customer. Traditionally, the electrolyte level and voltage are measured, which must be at least 12 volts.

After connecting the battery to the load plug, it should keep the load stable at 9A for 30 seconds, and the electrolyte should not boil or evaporate.

The warranty card itself must be filled as much as possible with information about the purchased product: brand, model, battery serial number, warranty period, seller's signature and seal of the company that carried out the sale.

In addition, you can ask the seller for review the quality certificate, made on the letterhead of the manufacturer.

It is not recommended to purchase Chinese products, since in practice and according to consumer reviews, it breaks down too quickly. If, when inspecting the battery, it appears to be too light in weight, it is highly likely that the manufacturer has installed insufficient plates and lead.

Now the car market has too many low-quality goods and outright fakes, so you will have to be very careful when choosing a battery.

Battery selection video:

How to choose a battery by car make?

Sooner or later, every motorist is faced with the question of choosing a new battery. The easiest thing is for those drivers who are serviced at a car service station certified by the manufacturer. Experts will install here exactly the battery that is indicated in the instructions. True, this service is very expensive.

If you prefer to buy batteries in car dealerships, then you need to be guided by the following rule:

• for and with an engine capacity of up to 1.6 liters, there are batteries for 45-55 Amperes / hour;
• station wagons with a volume of 1.3-1.9 liters - 60 Amperes / hour;
• and 1.5-2.3 liters - 66 Amperes / hour;
• trucks weighing up to 3.5 tons and an engine capacity of 1.6-3.2 liters - 77 Amperes / hour;
• medium-class trucks 1.9-4.5 liters - 90 Amperes / hour;
• truck tractors - 2 batteries 200 Ah each.

It is clear that in each specific case, you need to be guided by the manufacturer's recommendations. In addition, you can easily find catalogs, including on the Internet, where you will find information on any car model.

Basic parameters of rechargeable batteries

The performance of the car depends on how the battery you purchased will serve. No one wants to try and start the engine in the cold in winter. ... If you buy a battery from a trusted manufacturer, then you will not have to face such problems.

Manufacturer

• Exide is a world leader in this area, the products are very expensive, but easily take 5-7 years even if they are installed by taxi;
• Varta, Bosch - German batteries, recommended by German car manufacturers, they serve well and for a long time;
• Medalist is a joint trade mark of the USA and South Korea, Korean cars are equipped with a battery of this particular brand;
• Mutlu, Inci Aku - Turkish batteries of excellent quality.

The products of other factories are also highly appreciated, for example, the Westa enterprise in Dnipropetrovsk produces Vortex and Forse batteries. They belong to the middle price segment. And for example, batteries from another Ukrainian company - A-Mega - are sent straight to FIAT factories.

You can also remember the Topla (Slovenia), American (USA), Japan Star batteries. Batteries are produced in Belarus - "Zubr". And the Russian "Source of current Kursk" has long been in demand among domestic motorists, although there are also enough problems with it. There is also Irkutsk Aktech - Orion, Beast, Solo, Duo Extra.

All batteries are also divided into classes according to their cost, the Premium segment will serve very well and for a long time. Well, inexpensive batteries often do not reach the end of the warranty period - 12-18 months.

Technical characteristics of the battery

The main parameters of batteries include:

Rated voltage... Today, 12-volt batteries are installed on all passenger cars. For trucks, special equipment, buses, military equipment, you should buy 24-volt ones. Although for light trucks, a 12 volt battery may also be suitable.

Battery capacity... This parameter is measured in Ampere-hours (Ah). This is a conventional designation, it says that, for example, a 60 Ah battery is capable of providing a load with a current of 1 Ampere for 60 hours, or 4 Amperes for 15 hours. That is why the batteries are discharged if you forget to turn off the radio at night or leave the headlights on.

Starting current... The starting current is the current that is supplied to the starter motor when the engine is started. This value is measured in amperes. It is necessary to very carefully select the battery with the starting current for which the starter is designed, otherwise two options are possible:

• the starter winding will burn out - too high starting current;
• there is not enough current to turn the starter.

The starting current is not a constant value and depends on the air temperature, the area of ​​contact with the terminals (did you notice that over time the terminals oxidize or leave and the motor cannot be started?), The battery capacity and the charge level.

The inrush current is indicated on the label and corresponds to the current strength at a temperature of 18 degrees above zero. In winter, the starting current decreases and it is more difficult to start the engine, therefore it is allowed to buy batteries for cold regions with a starting current margin - several tens of amperes higher.

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Please also note that starting current can be measured according to different standards: EN (European), DIN (Germany) and GOST (Russia) - they are measured the same, SAE (USA). So, for example, if you buy a "sixty" A-Mega, it will say:

• starting current EN - 600 Amperes;
• DIN - 365 A;
• SAE - 650 A.

That is, this difference must be taken into account, sales consultants must have tables for different standards.

Polarity is the position of the positive and negative electrodes of the battery.

She may be:

• straight - the positive terminal is on the left (the battery is turned towards you by the side on which the terminals are);
• reverse - plus on the right.

Accordingly, you can see the battery designations: 60 (0) Ah - right plus, 60 (1) Ah - left plus.

If you pick up the battery with the wrong polarity, then there may not be enough wire to put it on the terminal. Also look at the terminals, they can be standard thickness - European, and thin - usually Asian batteries.

Well, pay attention that the new battery is suitable in size and mounting method.

Incorrectly sized battery

If the battery is selected incorrectly - with a larger or smaller battery capacity, this will be displayed first of all on the battery itself. Unless, of course, you bought a 75 or a "hundred" instead of a 60, then you can burn the starter and all the wiring in general.

If the battery capacity is too large, a constant undercharging will occur - the generator is not able to produce the required voltage to ensure the battery charge. Over time, you will notice that the electrolyte will turn white, and it will be impossible to start the car - the battery will be constantly discharged.

If a battery with a lower capacity and starting current is selected, then, on the contrary, it will be constantly recharged. Because of this, the process of shedding the plates will begin much faster, and the cans may close. A clear sign of an incorrectly selected battery is brown electrolyte due to crumbling plates.

In either case, the battery will not be subject to replacement by complaint.

What else to look for when buying?

The battery is a warranty product, so you should check it with you:

• measure the density and level of the electrolyte;
• measure voltage - 12 volts;
• connect to the load plug and give a load - the battery must hold it (the ammeter arrow is kept at around 9 A for 30 seconds), while the electrolyte does not boil and steam is not emitted.

Follow the completion of the warranty card, it must have the seal of the company, the signature of the seller, the serial number of the battery, which is stamped on the cover. Keep the warranty card at home to avoid losing it.

A good rechargeable battery lasts 5-7 years on average, depending on operating conditions.

There have also been a lot of fakes lately. We do not recommend buying Chinese batteries, they fail very quickly.

A car battery is a seasonal product, although it is used all year round. When birds sing on the street, and warm oil splashes inside the engine, it is not difficult to turn the crankshaft - even a half-dead battery can handle this. But in the cold, the starter is not easy, and it strives to turn into a purely active resistance that consumes a very large current. As a result, the battery tends to refuse, and the owner has to go to the store.

How to choose a battery

If you do not want to contact the service or the seller's help, then the selection algorithm should be as follows.

You need to take a battery that is guaranteed to fit in the niche allotted to it, be it the engine compartment, trunk or something else. Agree: it's stupid to miss a couple of centimeters! At the same time, we determine the polarity: we look at the old battery and figure out what is on the right and what is on the left? It goes without saying that if the car is not European, then the terminals themselves may differ from most of the usual ones - both in shape and location.

After that, we choose a brand. Here we definitely advise you to be guided by the list of our winners of recent years and never "peck" at newcomers or outsiders. Even if their labels are the prettiest. Here are some of the names that usually did not let us down: Tyumen (Tyumen batteries), Varta, Medalist, a-mega, Mutlu, Topla, Aktekh, Zver.

We carry out comparative tests of various car batteries every year. The most recent results, where we compared 10 batteries, can be seen. Those interested can also familiarize themselves with the examinations of past years:,,, etc.

The brand of the battery usually determines the price of the battery. The approximate cost of European-made car batteries with dimensions of 242 × 175 × 190 mm in 2014 ranged from 3000 to 4800 rubles. for a regular battery, and from 6300 to 7750 rubles. - for AGM. The declared current and capacity will turn out by themselves - based on the dimensions.

Important: if you had an AGM battery installed, then you should only change it to AGM, and not to a "regular" one. Reverse replacement is quite acceptable, but economically impractical.

Now we charge the battery - even the one we just bought! Our experience shows: in stores, under the guise of a brand new battery, they happily sniff "almost new", from which they only managed to wipe the dust. We charge, connect instead of the old battery, and - the key to start!

For those interested in technical nuances

Is it useful in cold weather to “warm up” the battery by turning on the headlights before starting the engine?

Why do you need a peephole indicator?

This indicator allows you to roughly estimate the density and level of electrolyte in order to find out if the car battery needs recharging. By and large, this is a toy, since the peephole is in only one jar out of six. However, many serious manufacturers at one time were forced to introduce it into the design, since the absence of a peephole was perceived by consumers as a disadvantage.

Is it possible to assess the condition of a car battery by the voltage at the terminals?

Approximately possible. At room temperature, a fully charged battery, disconnected from loads, should deliver at least 12.6–12.7 V.

What is behind the term "calcium battery"?

Nothing special: this is a regular advertising stunt. Yes, the icons "Ca" (or even "Ca - Ca") on car batteries are more and more present today, but this does not make them any easier. But calcium is a much less heavy metal than lead. The thing is that we are talking about very small (fractions or one percent) additions of calcium to the alloy from which the battery plates are made. If it is added to both the positive and negative electrodes, then the same "Ca - Ca" is obtained. All other things being equal, such car batteries are more difficult to boil, which is important for maintenance-free batteries. Such batteries have less self-discharge during storage. Therefore, "ordinary" batteries with additions of the formerly traditional antimony (they are usually given by the presence of plugs) are almost never on sale today! Note that not everything in them is so bad: for example, they tolerate deep discharges much better!

Why do car batteries give the declared current for so long when tested?

Indeed, if the capacity is 60 Ah, then arithmetic suggests: a current of 600 A should be issued for about 0.1 hours or 6 minutes! And the real count is only tens of seconds ... The point is that the battery capacity depends on the current! And at the indicated current, the battery capacity is no longer 60 Ah, but much less: about 20–25! The inscription 60 Ah only says that for 20 hours at a temperature of 25 ° C you can discharge your battery with a current equal to 60/20 = 3A - and no more. In this case, at the end of the discharge, the voltage at the battery terminals should not drop below 10.5 V.

Why choose a battery with a declared current, say, 600 A, if the real need is half as much?

The declared current is also an indirect indicator of the quality of a car battery: the higher it is, the lower its internal resistance! In addition, if we take an extreme case, when, God forbid, the oil has thickened so much that the starter generally barely moves the crankshaft, then this is where the maximum possible current may be needed.

Is it true that when a car battery with a larger capacity is installed on a car than a standard one, it will undercharge, and the starter may fail?

No it is not true. What will prevent the battery from fully charging? It is appropriate to draw an analogy: if you scooped up a glass of water from a bucket or from a huge barrel, then to restore the original level of liquid you will need to top up the same glass from the tap - both into the bucket and into the barrel. As for the expected breakdown of the starter, its current consumption will not change, even if the battery capacity grows a hundred or a thousand times. Ohm's law does not depend on ampere hours.

Conversations about upcoming breakdowns are only appropriate for extreme lovers who are used to getting out of the swamp using the starter motor. At the same time, the latter, of course, heats up very much, and therefore a small battery that discharges faster than a large one can save it from fatal overheating, dying first ... But this is a hypothetical case.

Let us immediately note one curious nuance. In Soviet times, it was strictly forbidden to install a car battery with a larger capacity on a number of army trucks! But the reason was precisely that when the engine did not want to start, drivers often turned the starters until the battery was completely discharged. At the same time, the starters overheated and often failed. And the higher the battery capacity, the longer it was possible to mock a poor electric motor. It was to protect starters from such bullying that the requirement once appeared not to exceed the battery capacity above the "standard" one. But now it is irrelevant.

The million dollar question: what is measured in ampere-hours?

Anyway, not the capacity of the batteries! This is a common misconception even among professionals. Which, however, are lost when asked how the product of current and time gives capacity? Because the correct answer is: ampere-hour is a unit of measure. charge! 1 Ah = 3600 Cl. And the capacitance is measured in farads: 1F = 1C / 1 V. Those who do not believe in this can refer to any reference book - for example, to Boshevsky.

As for batteries, the confusing terminology is still alive. And what is actually a charge is called a capacity in the old fashioned way. Some textbooks are twisted - they say, "capacity appreciate in ampere hours ". They do not measure, but evaluate! Well, well, at least so ...

By the way, in Soviet times, choosing a battery was incomparably easier - only by ampere-hours. For example, on the "Volga" it was necessary to look for a car battery for 60 Ah, on the "Zhiguli" -55 Ah. The polarity and terminals on domestic cars were the same. Today, it is not worth focusing only on ampere-hours, since products from different manufacturers with the same capacity can be quite different in other parameters. For example, 60 Ah batteries can have an 11 percent variation in height, 28 percent in terms of the declared current, etc. The prices also live their own lives.

And the last thing. If instead of "Ah" you see the inscription "A / h" (on the label, in the article, in the advertisement - it doesn't matter) - do not get involved with this product. Behind it are uneducated and indifferent people who do not have an elementary understanding of electricity.

What is an AGM battery?

The main area of ​​application for AGM is in cars with start-stop modes. This battery even says: Start Stop!

The main area of ​​application for AGM is in cars with start-stop modes. This battery even says: Start Stop!

Formally speaking, an AGM car battery is the same lead-acid product that many generations of motorists have become accustomed to, but at the same time it is much more perfect than its ancestors and will completely oust them from the market in the near future.

AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) is a technology for manufacturing batteries with absorbed electrolyte, which is impregnated with the micropores of the separator. The developers use the free volume of these micropores for closed recombination of gases, thereby preventing water from evaporating. Hydrogen and oxygen leaving the negative and positive plates, respectively, enter the bound medium and re-combine, remaining inside the battery. The internal resistance of such a battery is lower than that of its "liquid" predecessors, since the conductivity of the fiberglass separator is better compared to the traditional "envelopes" made of polyethylene. Therefore, it is capable of delivering higher currents. A tightly compressed plate package prevents the active mass from crumbling, which makes it possible to withstand deep cyclic discharges. A car battery like this can run upside down. And if you break it to smithereens, then even in this case, there will be no poisonous puddle: the bound electrolyte must remain in the separators.

Today's AGM applications are cars with a "Start-Stop" mode, cars with increased energy consumption (Ministry of Emergency Situations, "ambulance"), etc. But tomorrow a "simple" car battery will slowly go down in history ...

Are AGM and conventional batteries interchangeable with each other?

The AGM car battery replaces the "regular" one by 100%. Whether such a replacement is needed if the car has enough serviceable standard battery is another question. But the reverse replacement, of course, is incomplete - it can be used in practice only in a hopeless situation and as a temporary option.

Is it true that a 50 Ah AGM car battery can be used instead of the usual 90 Ah?

This is, excuse me, nonsense. How can you almost halve the charge and say that there will be no difference? Lost ampere hours are not compensated by any technology, not even AGM.

Is it true that the high current of the AGM battery can destroy the starter motor of the car?

Of course not. The current is determined by the resistance of the load, and in this case, the starter. And even if the car battery can deliver a current of a million amperes, the starter will take for itself exactly as much as from a regular battery. He cannot break Ohm's Law.

On which cars is it undesirable to use AGM?

There is no such limitation. Even if we consider ancient cars with an absolutely faulty relay-regulator and an unstable voltage in the network, then in this case the AGM car battery will not die earlier than usual, but even later. The voltage limit above which you can get into trouble is approximately 14.5 V for conventional batteries and 14.8 V for AGMs.

Which car battery is more afraid of deep discharge - AGM or ordinary?

Regular. After 5-6 deep discharges, they can finally "take offense", while for AGM this number is practically unlimited.

Can an AGM car battery be considered completely maintenance-free?

This is a question of an established terminology that works more in favor of PR than science. Strictly speaking, this term is incorrect - both for AGM batteries and for any other car batteries. Only an AA finger-type battery can be called completely maintenance-free, and any lead-acid car battery, generally speaking, is not. Even the technology leader - the AGM battery - is, shall we say, 99% sealed, but not 100% sealed. And such a battery still needs to be serviced - check the charge, recharge if necessary, etc.

How are gel batteries different from AGMs?

At least the fact that gel car batteries ... do not exist! The question is generated by a well-established incorrect terminology: gel batteries are used, for example, in electric forklifts or floor cleaning machines. The electrolyte in them, unlike conventional car batteries with liquid acid, is in a thickened state. In batteries with AGM technology, the electrolyte is bound (impregnated) in a special fiberglass separator.

Note that the most popular Optima battery is also AGM, not gel at all.

What is Battery Backup Capacity?

This parameter shows how long a car with a damaged generator will last on a cold rainy night. The expert will say differently: in how many minutes the voltage at the terminals of the battery, delivering a current of 25 A to the load, will drop to 10.5 V. The measurements are carried out at a temperature of 25 ° C. The higher the score, the better.

Experienced drivers know how important the correct selection of batteries, suitable for the brand of a particular car, is. It depends on this choice how efficiently and harmoniously all vehicle systems will work. We suggest not to waste your time searching and choosing a battery by car brand on our website!

Choosing a battery for a car

The company's specialists have developed a convenient battery selection system with simple intuitive functionality that ensures quick results. Here you will find the most popular brands of cars and trucks. Online search capabilities allow you to determine the type of battery as accurately as possible according to the following criteria:

• car brand;
• model;
• year of issue;
• engine's type.

Just four clicks and all you have to do is place an order. All models of rechargeable batteries presented in the catalog comply with the current standards, confirmed by quality certificates. Our database is constantly updated with new products and corrected.

If you have any questions or you have not found the brand of car you need, contact the managers of the trade and service network "Automotive" for help. Our consultants know all the intricacies of car operation, so they will offer you a battery based on the year of car production, the amount of equipment and your driving style. You can contact the managers in Moscow by phone