Power unit homemade ATV became the engine from the car "Oka" - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid cooling. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.
And this is just the dream of every man !!! I want this !!!
Homemade ATV frame- spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipes with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, crossbars, etc.) are made of VGT-20. The side members are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical plane. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "cold". I welded the lugs (pairs of lugs) for fastening the levers and shock absorbers to the frame at once, and various brackets - as the assemblies and assemblies were mounted (in place).
Homemade ATV- all-terrain vehicle:
1 - front wheel(from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);
2 - engine (from the car "Oka");
3 - front wheel drive transmission;
4 - gearbox (from the car "Oka");
5 - rear wheel drive transmission;
7 - rear wheel (from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);
8 - fuel tank(20 liter canister);
9 - rear trunk;
10 - muffler;
11 - backrest of the passenger (headrest from the car "Oka");
12 - saddle;
13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);
14 - gear fixing lever;
15 - body kit (fiberglass);
16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);
17 - instrument panel (from the car "Oka");
18 - front trunk
Homemade ATV transmission- kind. Although the car is all-wheel drive, but transfer case it is not. As you know, in "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheel (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. Here are just the power unit itself, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and the gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal pivot shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.
The transmission is assembled from units of various domestic cars, mostly "VAZ" models. But the finished industrial units also had to be refined. For example, from the gearbox (from "Oka") to ensure the optimal (reduced) speed and increase the torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod was also made different - lengthened, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The stem can be fixed in three positions: to engage 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.
Interwheel reduction gears - from rear axles VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts together with the "stockings" were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints are used as hinges in the rest of the transmission intermediate shafts.
Kinematic diagram of the transmission of a homemade ATV from Oki
1 - motor (from the car "Oka");
2 - clutch (from the car "Oka");
3 - gearbox;
4 - CV joint (from the VAZ-2108 car, 12 pcs);
5 - main gear reducer with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);
6 - shaft (from the car VAZ-2108, 6 pcs.);
7 - wheel (from the car "Chevrolet-Niva")
There are no undershifts and differential locks.
Steering- motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type (with steering rods) - at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. At first I used the steering wheel from a motorcycle "Minsk", with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and delivered it from a Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a tube with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. It has a travel stop at its lower end. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it turns in a split nylon bracket-sleeve.
The bipod is made of 8 mm thick steel sheet in the shape of the letter "T". At the edge of the "rack" a hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made - the steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for the ball ends of the steering rods. These holes are reinforced with matching welded washers. The bipod ears are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.
Wheels - 15-inch, from the car "Chevrolet-Niva". Tires with the corresponding rim dimensions 205/70 (width / height as a percentage of the width) with an off-road tread pattern. The wheel roll-in diameter is about 660 mm.
Homemade ATV frame drawing:
1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
3 - stand (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
4 - support of the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3,2,2 pcs.);
5 - rear strut (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
6 - support of the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
7 - front strut (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
8 - the upper support of the front shock absorber (corner 35 × 35);
9 - front shock absorber upper support (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);
10 - front engine mounting support (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);
11 - rear engine mounting support (sheet s3,2 pcs.);
12 - lugs for fastening levers and shock absorbers of suspensions (sheet s5, 18 pairs);
13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);
14 - upper transverse link (pipe d20x2.8);
15 - lower transverse link (pipe d20x2,8,2 pcs.);
16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);
17 - front console of footrests (pipe d20x2);
18 - rear console of footrests (pipe d20x2);
19 - connection of the front and rear footrest consoles (pipe d20x2);
20 - cross member of the footboard (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);
21 - fastening eyelet fiberglass body kit(sheet s5, set)
Wheel suspensions are independent, on two triangular wishbones each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). Levers are welded from round pipes of the VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car "Oka" (rear). Wheel hubs are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers and steering knuckles- from a VAZ-2109 car. Both those and others had to be finalized. In the hubs I installed studs under the wheels from the "Niva", and in the front fists - homemade swivel levers.
The muffler is homemade, two-piece. To protect against thermal warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.
ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.
Wheel suspension arms
(a - upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm of the front suspension; c - lower arm rear suspension; d - upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except those noted specifically, are made of VGT-20 pipe):
1 - beam (2 pcs.);
2 - cross member;
3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);
4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);
5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the car "Zhiguli")
First made from steel square pipe section 10x10x1 mm required contours of the body kit. Fortunately, this pipe bends easily even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be easy to cut the "tack". Then he bent the "wings" from hardboard (fiberboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and lintels. Where the bend turned out to be steep, I fastened separate strips of the same hardboard. The front end was taken out with polystyrene purchased from a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene or the same polyurethane foam, but expanded polystyrene turned out to be a more suitable material - it is cut well with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a general structure on polyurethane foam.
Steering column assembly:
1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);
2 - rudder connection plate (steel, sheet s6);
3 - brace of the plate (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);
4 - split bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (nylon, sheet s18);
5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);
6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);
7 - rudder travel stop (steel, sheet s6);
8 - bearing housing;
9 - a persistent tip (steel, circle 15);
10 - thrust bearing
The false tank is of a complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the space intended for it with layers of polyurethane foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise a thick foam volume may not dry out inside. I filled it until the layers went beyond the outline. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed out with coarse sandpaper. 
Under instrument cluster part of the Oka dashboard was used. I also fixed it on the disc with the help of polyurethane foam. Since the foam is large-pored, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to respond to the conceived design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit from the dummy, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, then plastering with plaster and painting the dummy could be neglected.
Today we will talk about how to make a real ATV out of a motorcycle, walk-behind tractor or moped with our own hands. We will also consider drawings, diagrams and methods for assembling a homemade ATV from scrap materials in the garage
From a motorcycle like "Ural" - this big, bulky, heavy and "gluttonous" animal has a wonderful four-stroke engine with reverse gear and costs "a penny". For this reason, it is much cheaper and more fun for enthusiasts to create their own designs for these SUVs.
Before you start assembling, you need to make a detailed list of units and parts that will be needed to create your own brainchild, develop a work plan and a design drawing.
It is logical that first of all it is necessary to find the "heart" of the future ATV - the power unit. Absolutely anything will do, from a conventional walk-behind tractor to a six-liter V12 - there are such precedents. In most cases, motorcycle engines are used - they are economical and small-sized.
To use high gear ratios under normal operating conditions, a Minsk or Ural engine will suffice.
In the summer, the issue of overheating arises, so you should choose models with air cooled... Another good option is boxer engines Soviet-made, an indisputable plus of which is a powerful traction and a completely unpretentious cardan transmission.
There are two common ATV rear suspension solutions.
Gear-cardan system. The design is as lightweight and simple as possible, but there is no differential, which, in principle, can be sacrificed for the sake of the previously mentioned advantages.
Using a road bridge. The construction turns out to be extremely heavy, and if there is no desire to have an ATV with a car base, it is necessary to shorten the bridge, which is a very non-trivial task. Of the advantages, it is worth highlighting only the presence of a differential, which is useful when driving on highways.
There are tremendous possibilities for creating front suspension and steering. The suspension arms of an ATV carry a significantly lower load than automobile ones, respectively, they can be made independently, using improvised means for this. The best option- creation of a suspension based on the existing Ural motorcycle.
It is ideal to remove the frame from the donor motorcycle and add the necessary elements - this eliminates a number of problems, but the design can turn out to be unnecessarily complicated.
Having prepared necessary tools, vehicles-Donors and freeing up time, you can start creating your own ATV:
We collect the frame (frame). We connect the prepared metal beams, according to the drawing, to each other using spot welding. We check the structure and carry out solid welding. Alternatively, you can simply remake the frame from the donor motorcycle - it will be no worse.
Installing the engine. It can be installed both from the back and from the front - the main thing is to firmly fix it with bolts on the bottom of the frame.
We mount the drive and transmission on rear wheels... The drive does not need to be created independently - it goes with the engine from the donor transport and is installed on the frame. Again, the drive and transmission must be properly secured to the frame to prevent backlash.
The steering is also installed from the motorcycle. Together with the steering wheel, the fuel tank "migrates" to the ATV. In general, if we imagine the structure, it will look like this: 3/4 of the ATV is the same "Ural" or another motorcycle, 1/4 is homemade frame and suspension. ...
We install wheels from a small-sized vehicle ("Oka" or "ZAZ-968"). The rear wheels can go to the ATV together with the rear axle of the car, or they are attached as follows: we take the ready-made axles with disks, and then we attach the gearbox to the rear for the drive. and install wheels on the disks
With a gearbox on the rear axle and an engine, we assemble a single drive (again, it will be easier if it is completely rearranged from the donor tool). We do it as follows: from the engine we pull the chain onto the gearbox and fix it, after which we carry out a performance check. Finally, we fix the whole structure on the frame.
The front suspension is independent - it is more profitable in terms of time and money, since an all-wheel drive ATV requires significant revision of this unit by a professional turner, welder and electrician, which will take a very long time. Alternatively, we purchase ready-made factory units for ATVs.
Thanks to its reliable, time-tested design, excellent power and traction, it is the Ural motorcycle that is the most popular donor for homemade ATVs.
Frame.
ATV Frame Specification:
Material: 2.5 x 2.5 square profile
Total length: 130cm
Overall height: 74 cm (landing level)
Overall height: 84 cm (handlebar level)
Wheel base: 105 cm
Distance between axles: 70.5 cm
Axis tilt: 14 degrees
Track (distance from the outer edge of the tire to the outer edge of the other): front: 105 cm; back: 112 cm
Ground clearance: 7 inches (with 16-inch rear wheels)
Materials:
Square profile:
2.5x2.5 square profile - 9.75 meters
Pipes:
1.22 meters - 1 x .065 (inches)
1.22 meters - 3/4 x .065
0.3048 meters - 3/4 x .125
0.915 meters - 5/8 x .125
0.61 meters - 1/2 x .083 T6 aluminum tube
Rental:
0.61 meters - 1 x 3/16 (inches)
0.915 meters - 1 1/4 x 1/4
0.61 meters - 5 x 1/8 (engine and suspension plate)
You will also need spring dampers for the rear and front suspensions.
Engine for ATV:
Now you need to securely attach the engine to the frame. The engine is best used from a moped. After screwing it to the frame, connect the motor shaft to the gear on the rear axle with a simple chain drive. After that, bring all engine controls to the steering wheel and secure the pedals and levers to your frame.
The best and easiest way to make parts of the body kit or bodywork of an ATV is fiberglass. After manufacturing on wooden or plasticine blanks, the elements aerodynamic body kit are adjusted relative to each other, sanded and then painted in the desired color, after which they are already attached to the ATV frame. Ideas, as well as some ready-made elements, for example from a broken car (of course, if you have them available), options for an external body kit can be taken from any serial models.
Important:
Remember that to operate your ATV on the road common use you will need to register it with the traffic police, where it is necessary to register any vehicles with an engine over 50 cc and a maximum design speed of over 50 km / h. Therefore, we recommend not to use engines larger than fifty cubic centimeters.
The frame for the ATV is welded using round pipes, corners and square profiles. At the same time, it is advisable to use elements of various mopeds and motorcycles, because it is there that pipes with high strength are used. Never use water pipes. They do not have the required strength and can crack at any time. Then we weld on the mounting brackets and fix the engine to the frame. Make your first ATV out of a moped engine
Even your children will like it, who will simply be delighted with it. The fact is that petrol-powered ATVs for kids are a great toy for every child. After all, he does not develop huge speeds, but the guys will have more than enough emotions from overcoming rough terrain. Next, we connect the engine shaft to the rear axle gear using a chain.
We install the ATV control mechanisms on the steering column, and attach the pedals and levers to the frame. The power supply and ignition system is taken from the same moped model from which we took the engine. Over time, they can be improved and refined within reasonable limits, of course. You can choose a fuel tank of the appropriate size. Do not forget also the point that in the question of how to make an ATV, each stage must be carefully worked out. Therefore, installing a battery on such a car is simply necessary.
You also need parts for assembling an ATV:
1 - disks from a scooter tourist or ant
2 - rubber for motoblock 10 inches and wider 4.5 or 5.0
3 - profile pipe 15 * 15. 17 * 17. 20 * 20. 25 * 25.
4 - bearing 306 - 12 pieces
5 - external cv joint VAZ 2109-08 16 pieces of which 4 are new 4 used, but workers, and 8 can be killed (for any hundred in scrap metal) and 8 anthers.
6 - engine with a moped at least 150 cc. for example, a viper storm in a place with a wiring with an ignition switch with a wheel and a glushak
7 - reducer from a motor scooter ant reinforced (all shafts on bearings)
8 - four leading sprockets from 21 tooth Izh and two new chains
9 - ball joints with Renault 21 for any disassembly with a shaft and a penny
10 - reactive thrust of the rear axle (short.) From 2101, 6 pcs.
11 - a bunch of different bolts of cutting wheels and electrodes, well, that's all along the way
12 - shock absorbers of the Yamaha ario smoped -4 pieces from a Honda Lead 2 pieces and 8 more killed shock absorbers from any yap mopeds (we will cut off the ears from them)
.
V winter time the ATV can be easily converted by replacing the rear wheels with pneumatics and installing a steering ski in front; the car thus turns into a snowmobile, and the transformation takes less than an hour. Use in the manufacture of an all-terrain vehicle available materials, the simplicity of the design may well ensure the repeatability of the machine even in a home workshop.
The MTS frame is made of round tubes, square profiles and corners. It features detachable connections that allow you to remove the steering column assembly when installing the engine, as well as the front axle beam. Each of the connectors consists of a conventional "water pipe" sleeve, squeegee and locknut.
To tension the chain connecting the engine with the gearbox, the motor frame (part of the frame of the Minsk motorcycle) is moved; axis rear wheels with bearings also has the ability to move in the longitudinal direction, which allows you to adjust the tension of the second chain connecting the gearbox to rear axle... Front and rear fenders are removable (they are not available in the version of the snowmobile). The frame elements were joined by electric welding.
The engine of the motor vehicle is from the Minsk motorcycle, I have no comments on its operation. It is, of course, possible to install more powerful engines- from a motorcycle "Voskhod" or a motor scooter "Tula"; it is only necessary to adjust the dimensions of the frame for them. The choice of the "Minsk" engine was due to its efficiency and low weight. Its power turned out to be quite sufficient for trips on a snowmobile with a passenger, it is also possible to tow a skier or sled. The starting properties of the motor in summer and winter are quite satisfactory.
The directional control of the summer version of the motor vehicle is provided by turning the front wheels using two rods; for the winter version, there is a lever and a rod connecting it to the ski fork. The latter is borrowed from a moped. Front axle- from the SZD motorized carriage, however, somewhat reduced: sections are cut out of its beams and the central parts (with the torsion bolt) are welded to the peripheral ones (with the suspension arm bushings). V winter version levers, steering knuckles, rods and torsion bars are dismantled.
The steering wheel is from the "Tourist" scooter, it fits perfectly with the steering shaft with an M10 bolt. The controls are standard, motorcycle. The brake lever is connected with a cable brake pads mounted on the gearbox.
Reducer. Its basis was the hub of the rear wheel of the Tula-200 scooter, to which from the side brake drum an asterisk is welded. The rear axle is driven by a chain with a 19 mm pitch. The transmission brake makes the rear axle much simpler. The sprocket on the axle is fixed with an M14 bolt, the hubs of the travel wheels are similarly attached, as shown in the drawings. As the basis of the gearbox, you can use not only the hub of the "Tourist" wheel, but also other motor vehicles.
The axle of the driving wheels is a rod with a diameter of 30 mm; its ends are turned to Ø25 mm, turned hubs are put on these places. Wheels are used from a motorized carriage with a size of 5.00X10.0. Winter wheels common for pneumatic tires on tires low pressure designs: with plywood discs, aluminum cradles and camera straps. The axle bearings are double-row, they have tapered inserts with nuts, which fix the axle well and do not require high machining accuracy.
More information about ATVs can be found at this link:
Optional equipment. This includes front and rear racks, headlights, turn signals and brake lights; their attachment points are shown in the figures.
The design of the all-terrain vehicle is simple, it can be made in just a few days in a fairly primitive workshop - of course, if all the components are available. And the possibilities of using such a machine are the widest: as a winch when plowing a vegetable garden, to drive a circular saw, as a simple garden tractor (excellent cross-country ability, therefore cultivation, hilling, etc. is possible). In addition, cross-country ability can be increased by installing twin rear wheels. You can also mount a reverse gear from the SZA motorized carriage, in which the differential is replaced by a shaft, and then the all-terrain vehicle will receive reverse gear... Rubber wear due to the lack of a differential is not observed, and this does not affect handling.
ATV is four-wheel drive car and a motorcycle, bike enduro-cross, in one bottle. The features of this type of transport are compactness, tires with recessed treads for better off-road grip, 1-2 seats and no roof over your head. This type of transport first appeared in Japan in the 1970s and won the hearts of many off-road romantics. Such transport will interest hunters, fishermen, and those who like to conquer impassable terrain. Many of us dream of such a toy for adults. We will tell you how you can make your dreams come true with your own hands.
Choosing an engine for an ATV
The most important part for your all-terrain vehicle will be the powertrain. Most often, motorcycle engines are used (they are economical and small in size). For example, an engine from the "Ural" or "Minsk", IL "Planet" or IL "Jupiter" will do. You can adapt the engine from "VAZ" or "Oka" to your ATV. To avoid overheating the engine in the heat, you need to choose a model with an air-cooled system. The most popular option is to carry over vehicle forced cooling.
Retrofitting an existing frame or blueprints from scratch
Before any undertaking, an action plan and a design drawing or a finished frame are needed. If you yourself are friends with mathematical calculations, then you can calculate everything yourself. If you do not make a drawing, then you can contact a specialist or look for a design scheme that suits you on the Internet.
The easiest way is to take the finished motorcycle frame as a basis and weld all the missing parts onto it. The order of your actions is as follows: dismantle the old motorcycle. We leave only the frame. Cut off the rear part of the frame with the pendulum fork mount. We extend the frame with pipes and weld the bridge (use jibs and kerchiefs). Pre-flip the automobile axle so that the quadric can go forward, not backward (because on the "Ural" gearbox at the output, the direction of rotation is reversed).
Remember that the axle gearbox must be easy to remove in case of replacement. We are looking for spare parts from a passenger car: 2 front hubs, a rear axle (so that the disks match the fasteners with the hubs), cardan shaft, front suspension arms, track rods, ¾ ”round water pipe.
If there is no donor motorcycle, then the frame is best made of durable alloys: pipes, profiles, spot welded together. For the supporting parts of the frame, you can buy water pipes (VGP 25 × 3.2). You must have equipment that allows you to bend the pipes in the right place. For the body, we cook a frame from a 70 × 40 pipe. The length should not be shorter than the spring, and the width should correspond to the size of the bridge. When using jibs, do not forget about the torsional rigidity of the structure.
We connect the cardan with the box with the "Ural" rubber coupling. Through the crosspiece of the hinge with a flange, we connect the cardan to the bridge. If the donor was IL, then the drive is carried out by the native chain.
If your quad has springs on shock absorbers, leave the rear swingarm with the bushings. Weld the bridge to the fork (remember to reinforce the seams with wide kerchiefs to prevent sweat vomiting). Instead of a cardan shaft, use the axle shaft from the Oka or VAZ. We leave the springs with shock absorbers as they are, do not touch them. When the frame structure is ready, we proceed to fasten the engine to the bottom of the frame using bolts. The engine can be located both in the back and in the front (no difference). The muffler can be homemade, two-piece.
Now we mount the transmission on the rear wheels so that there is no backlash. The drive comes with an old motorcycle engine. Wheels on the quad can be supplied from "Niva". If you need a trunk, you can weld it from thin-walled steel pipes. The bumper can be replaced by "kenguryatniki".
Control type
To keep your ATV safe in operation, you will have to take care of the type of control. Your ATV can have 2 types of controls: a steering wheel (we take the basis from the car - steering rods) and a steering wheel from a used motorcycle (lever and shaft). The steering shaft can be made from a tube with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. Place a travel stop at the lower end. Thus, at the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle it turns in a split nylon bracket-sleeve.
Suspension: front and rear
Your ATV can be fitted with either rear or front suspension. For the rear suspension, the following solution is suitable:
1. To make the design lightweight and simple, a gear-cardan system is needed. There is no differential in this case.
2. The construction will turn out to be very heavy if you use road bridge(it has to be shortened). In this case, there is a differential that will be needed when driving.
For the front suspension, you can take as a basis the suspension from the "Ural" or IZH. Installing the front suspension is more time-efficient - it is faster than four-wheel drive, where you need the help of professional turners, electricians, welders (some revision will be needed).
To attach the swing arms, the motorcycle frame is lengthened at the front. It must be installed so that the turning wheels do not touch the engine cylinders. Therefore, on the frame of the "Ural", the wheels are put further forward. To increase the geometric cross-country ability, the suspension arms should be as long as possible(you need to make these yourself). To the steering column (made of the "Ural" cardan) at the bottom we weld two steering bipods next to it: on the right and left wheel. The hubs are attached by means of their own ball.
When installing the A-pillar, be aware of the tilt of the rack. This will prevent the steering wheel from knocking out on bumps and will help bring the steering wheel back into place when cornering. If there is no tilt, you can fly by inertia, returning the steering wheel to the opposite position on off-road conditions will be very problematic.
All-wheel drive ATV
For an all-wheel drive ATV, you will need:
- drive from mechanical transmission with a power take-off gear for the front wheels;
Wheel differentials;
Front-wheel steering (like a car);
Independent suspension (you can also multi-link) or dependent suspension.
If it is not possible to assemble everything yourself, take the suspension from the "Oka" or front-wheel drive VAZs. We cook the frame from scratch for the engine from the "Oka". In the front suspension, we leave room for the front wheel drive gearbox. You can do it yourself: we cut off the "stockings" of the bridge and remove the suitable axle shafts from the VAZ from the differential. We turn the engine backwards. Now the axle shafts have become cardan shafts that drive the front and rear axles.
At first glance, it may seem that assembling a homemade ATV is not an easy task. In fact, everything is much simpler than it seems, if there is necessary spare parts and tools. An off-road vehicle of this type is usually constructed from parts found on any unused motorcycle that is in decent working order.
Required set of tools
To assemble the device with your own hands, you may need the following tools:
Welding machine.
Bulgarian.
A good set of box and socket wrenches.
Other small tools like pliers and screwdrivers.
To assemble the ATV you will need small room, with good lighting and heating. If you assemble in the summer, you can sit under a canopy.
Engine and transmission
As power unit for a home-made all-terrain vehicle, engines from Soviet-made motorcycles such as "Ural" or "Dnepr" are suitable. For lighter and more maneuverable vehicles, you can use units from motorcycles like "Java" or "IZH", which were completed with single-cylinder two-stroke engines.
To simplify the design of the future ATV, together with the engine, it is better to use the same transmission and drive with which they were originally equipped. To construct a machine with four-wheel drive you will need to install an additional gearbox. This is extremely rarely used in home-made devices, since it will be difficult to implement an additional unit without a sharp addition in weight at home.
Frame and suspension
Frame for homemade apparatus usually self-made from scratch. You can use blanks from an old motorcycle as material for the frame. The pipes from which they are made are lightweight and have the necessary strength and flexibility. As a last resort, you can choose the material yourself. Here the main parameter will be weight. Excessively thick tubes or profiles will make the ATV very heavy and overwhelming for fast and agile riding.
As a suspension, you can use shock absorbers with springs from the same motorcycles. The suspension itself is made in the form of the letter "A", and is movably fixed to the frame. Shock absorbers and springs should be sized to withstand the weight future car, and provided a smooth ride with good handling on bumps and holes.
Steering and wheels
The steering can be partially used by motorcycle, with the addition of two-wheel drives. The drive is carried out by adding levers and ball joints to the design, which can be borrowed from the car. The main task of the steering is precise and comfortable steering.
The wheels for an all-terrain vehicle are best used from a car, as they are wider and will increase the vehicle's cross-country ability. The diameter of the wheels must be calculated in such a way that the homemade ATV can develop sufficient speed and also has a harmonious appearance.
Body and electronics
For installation attachments, gas tank and controls, you can use a motorcycle frame, which is structurally connected to the ATV frame. Special attention at the same time, one should pay attention to the stability of the all-terrain vehicle, its appearance and the convenience of the driver's landing.
Do not forget about installing all the necessary lighting devices on a homemade ATV and outdoor alarm... Headlights, taillights and the direction indicators are perfectly usable from the same bike that everything else was taken from.
See what a homemade ATV is in use!
I started working on my project about a year ago. I assembled my homemade ATV mainly after work and on weekends for 2-3 hours, no more.
And now, after 11 months, all the big work was completed (there were minor improvements in the form of electrics, an ignition switch and other little things) and I decided that the prototype was ready for testing and the first photo session.
The engine for my brainchild was a used motor from the Oka. The two-cylinder, thirty-two strong unit, according to my calculations, should have coped well with a light quadric.
The basis of the ATV was the old Oka
Spatial frame, welded from steel water pipes. The upper and lower pairs of spars are made of VGP-25 pipe (25x3.2 mm) for auxiliary elements (crossbars, struts, etc.), I decided to do with VGT-20 pipes.
All side members are bent on a pipe bending machine. I bent the lower spars in the horizontal plane, the upper ones in the vertical. I welded the mountings for the levers and shock absorbers right after the frame was made, I welded and adjusted everything else as it was assembled.
ATV drawing
The car is made according to the all-wheel drive scheme, but without a transfer case. This happened due to the fact that the Oka engine was able to unfold along the frame and direct the output shafts from the checkpoint directly to the front and rear axles. To reduce the horizontal angles of the longitudinal joints power plant with a clutch and a box, had to be shifted to the left (relative to the longitudinal axis of symmetry).
The homemade transmission is assembled from factory units from the domestic "classics" with some modifications. For example, to increase the torque from the gearbox from the Oka, the main gear pair was removed and replaced with a chain drive. Differential locks and reduced no.
Kinematic transmission diagram
An extended gear shift rod was made with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. It has two fixed positions - one for shifting 1-2 gears, the second 3-4 and reverse.
Cross-axle gearboxes were made from the rear axles of the VAZ. The original axles were redesigned: the axle shafts were removed and replaced by the shafts with CV joints, which I borrowed from the front-wheel drive "classic" model. By the way, I used the same CV joints in the transmission as intermediate shafts.
Management is implemented as follows. The upper part is a lever and a shaft, the lower one is with steering rods, as in a car, but with one bipod. Initially, the steering wheel was used from the Minsk motorcycle, but later it was replaced by the Ural one, due to its great strength. The steering shaft of the upper part is made of a 20x3mm tube with a travel stop at the bottom.
The lower part of the shaft is inserted into the support bearing, the middle part is fixed in the bracket-sleeve. I made a T-shaped bipod from 8mm steel sheet. The bipod ears are bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.
The steering shaft is inserted and welded into a 20mm hole at the edge of the rack, and tapered holes are drilled in the ears for the ends of the tie rods and reinforced with welded washers.
