The process of noise insulation is an integral part of the high-quality installation of the audio system in the car. Many motorists start their acquaintance with noise insulation precisely in the process of installing better audio components. This article discusses one of the options for noise insulation of the doors of the car and the installation of an acoustic front system.
To ensure high quality of the sound of acoustics installed in the car door, it is necessary to provide the following conditions:
- Vibration Isolation of the outer and inner surface surfaces, to exclude the bounce and pride when playing low frequencies
- Creating a closed volume inside the door to ensure a deeper and detailed sound of acoustics
- Hard fastening of the dynamics to the door surface, to increase returns and loudest sound
- Noise isolation of the door itself to reduce noise from the street
- Vibration Isolation and Anti-Siberian Processing of the Door Sheet, to exclude a rattling and high volume ghosts
These process is considered on the example of the installation of acoustics in the front doors of Peugeot 307. The prerequisite is preserving the integrity of the casing and the appearance of the cabin.
Gently remove the trim and see a typical picture for most cars - a weak speaker having an attachment directly to the trim. This mount does not provide the necessary stiffness. Therefore, at high volume, it starts to rock the trim, causing resonances and the ulusion, the return of low frequencies is reduced. In addition, the speaker does not play the volume of the door and the sound applies to the trim.
1) Production of spacepage under acoustics
For the hard fastening of the dynamics directly to the metal door, it is necessary to orient the speaker so that its center coincides with the center of the ring on which the standard acoustics is attached. Cut their cardboard template for centering and manufacture of the base of spacers.
One template is used to transfer markings on the door, the other (slightly smaller in size) - for the manufacture of the base.
On the door outline the circle and cut the metal. It is necessary to ensure the work of acoustics on the volume of the door. The emitter itself should be as close as possible to the grid in the trim. Therefore, we configure the following design from plywood rings.
At the top point, use an additional spacer to increase fastening stiffness.
2) Vibration Isolation and Noise Isolation Doors
On the outer side of the door (which is closer to the street) we apply a bimash standard. We use small pieces, so that they passed into the technological holes. We put about 50-60% of the area. Special attention is the ribs of rigidity. A place in front of the hole in the door to the dynamics is covered with bitoplast 10mm (size a little more holes) to prevent standing waves. Noise insulation of the outer surface of the door is not made. Sound-reflective material (such as Splane) will overweight zoom waves, and noise absorbers - absorb. Therefore, we only leave the vibration insulator.
On the outer side we stick the bimast super, closing all the technological holes, except drainage and ventilation. The material requires a good heating hairdryer.
Before installing the spacer, we throw the slots between the base and the door. After trimming the surplus, we seal the joints with vibroplast M1 (GOLD). The podium itself is rigidly secure on the bolts.
The last barcode is setting the speaker and around the circumference we stick the sealing ring from the bit plastic 10mm. The ring must serve as a seal between the door sheat and the speaker.
3) Vibration insulation and sealing of the door sheat.
Using the vibroplast M1 (GOLG), the "wilderness" vibration insulator, the "wilderness", all flat surfaces of the trim. Because The door card on this machine consists of several parts, additionally vibrating all the seams and places for fastening parts of the trim to each other.
After that, we close the entire surface of the Bitoplast 5mm. The edges are saving with the allen, cutting the even surplus "flush". This will exclude a script for the metal door.
It remains to put the trim in place. Perhaps you have to replace the fasteningups to new ones. This is completed at this installation process.
Consumption of materials:
- Bimast Standard - 1 sheet
- Bimast Super - 1 sheet
- Vibroplast M1 - 1 sheet
- Bitoplast 10mm - 0.5 m.kv.
- Bitoplast 5mm - 0.5 M.KV.
Through the doors to the salon there is a lot of noise. Proper noise insulation of the doors of the car will help to reduce it significantly. This process is not complicated, so it can be done with your own hands.
Materials necessary for work
The result expected after all works:
- noise reduction from the road by 40%;
- doors will be closed quieter with a deaf sound (due to an increase in mass);
- the sound quality of the audio system in the cabin will improve significantly.
Motionally, which have adhesive base and are made on the basis of mastic or bitumen, are used as materials for the interior.
We list the main groups:
- Bimers. They consist of two layers - mastic and bitumen. This is a modern material that was developed 2 years ago. During this time, it is actively used as a noise insulator. They are from 2 to 5 mm. And differ from the outer coating: fabric, aluminum, paper.
- Vibroplasts. Have a good elasticity. Have three layers - lower adhesive layer, foil and water-absorbing polymer. The most common brand is the vibroplast M2. When installing there is no need for heating. Sold with sheets of 75x53 cm.
- Visomature of PB 2-3.5 has an adhesive basis. The second layer consists of a mixture of bitumen and foamed polystyrene. It is protected by a special anti-adhesive gasket. This composition helps to join the vibration of the door elements. For mounting, a construction hairdryer will be required to heat the visomat. You can use at large temperature ranges - from -40 to + 70c. Before applying to the surface, it is mandatoryly degreased by gasoline, White with spirit, dried. First removes the corner of the gasket and the sticky side is applied to the surface. Then the construction haze is heated by a part of the sheet, the dug portion is also pressed to the surface and is glued. It is necessary to smooth out the material well to come out all the air. Immediately need to cut pieces correctly, because Then it will be difficult to spare it. You can use a visome of 2 mm thick. In the store Sheets are sold in size 75x35 cm.
The material is selected taking into account the goals. If you need to improve the sound of the audio system in the cabin or simply remove unnecessary sounds, the trim may be minimal, standard and maximum.
If you have simple acoustics and you are not a loud music amateur, you can use a MP visome or a bimaster super and close only flat pieces. If the car has a powerful audio system, then the entire inner side and technological holes are also closed by these same materials.
Benefits of materials:
- environmentally safe;
- no evaporation harmful to the body;
- affordable price;
- optimal dimensions due to which you can immediately cover a large area;
- wide temperature range for operation;
- does not absorb moisture, as a result there will be no corrosion and fungus.
Disassembly of the door and its components
The first stage is to parsing the door.
The following materials and tools will be needed for work:
- screwdrivers to pars;
- construction knife;
- degreaser;
- material for isolation.
You need to remove the old upholstery to access all the inner parts. The complexity at this stage is that you need to remember what kind of cog was in this opening. But here you can get out of the situation using scotch. They can be accompanied by stealing screws and then nothing will be lost.
The windows and the opening mechanism do not need to be disassembled. These elements do not interfere with noise insulation.
After parsing, it is necessary to clean all metal parts from dirt and degrease with White Spirit. In the process of cleaning, the most important thing is not to scratch the factory paint, otherwise corrosion may form.
Vibration isolation of doors
It is needed to absorb its own sounds from the vibration of doors, as well as to reduce noise from passing transport. We have an inner side, which is from the road.
Suitable materials for vibration insulation are:
- STP Aero or Aero Plus;
- Vibroplast GOLD;
- Bitoplast;
- Visomat;
- Bombs premium;
- Focus Premium.
The road canvas on which the vehicle is operated is far from always high quality. In the aggregate with the fact that automakers rarely pay due attention to high-quality noise insulation of doors, frequent trips from a bad surface lead to loosening the fastening elements of the body, trunk, hood and doors. About the presence of problems The driver learns only for the second year of operation of the car, if initially it was purchased new. It is the doors that make themselves known in the first place. How is the noise insulation of the doors of the car, and what materials are needed for this?
Functions noise insulation doors
Noise insulating work should be done immediately after purchasing a car, even if it is new. Improvements will be as follows:
- significant increase in driving comfort and reducing the risk of an accident, while extraneous noises annoy the driver and make a trip unsafe;
- acoustic capabilities of the salon increase, the sound quality increases, the vibration and rattling while driving are eliminated;
- heat loss is reduced, which leads to long-term preservation of the necessary air temperature, even when the engine is turned off.
Choosing materials
The key goal of vibrating absorbing materials is to reduce the structural noise caused by the vibration of metal parts of the vehicle (suspension elements, transmission, engine). When choosing a specific material, it is necessary to navigate the mechanical loss factor. It must be as high as possible. The materials under consideration due to the adhesive base are quickly mounted and have additional sealing properties for anti-corrosion protection of metal elements of the body. The basis for the manufacture of the materials presented below is a mastic or bitumen, possibly addition of aluminum foil, but there are options without it.
- Bimers are represented by two layers - bituminous and mastic. Thickness is 2 - 4 mm, the external coating can be made of aluminum, paper or tissue.
- The visomat is a vibrating absorbing material based on bitumen, performed on an adhesive basis. Vibration absorption provides a combination of bitumen with a foamed polymer. The MP series is distinguished by the presence of a foil coating.
- Vibroplast is distinguished by high elasticity and flexibility. The structure is represented by aluminum foil, polymer and self-adhesive basis.
Sound-absorbing and soundproofing materials, in turn, isolate sounds, made on the basis of polyethylene. Categories the category of additional materials used after vibration insulators.
Technologically correct operation of noise insulation works in the door zone requires the preparation of the following materials and tools:
- noise elevators and vibration insulators;
- rolling roller;
- solvent;
- scissors or construction knife;
- construction or household hair dryer;
- screwdriver Set.
The preparatory stage requires the following work:
- Disassembling the door is performed in the open state. The trim must be removed in a well-lit room, the process is monotonous and long. Try not to damage the fasteners and remember the disassembly process. The glass lift mechanism can not be dismantled.
- The second preparatory stage requires the removal of factory isolation and anti-corrosion protection.
- At the final stage, the clean metal obtained after dismantling must be deguted.
Phased noise insulation depending on the degree
Phased noise insulation of the doors of the car with their own hands directly depends on the degree of sound insulation, which must be achieved.
Minimum noise insulation
This is a budget option, and it will not suit the improvement of acoustic properties, but the noises are reduced. Door processing is minimal and involves sticking the vibration-absorbing material to the outer panel of the door with a solid layer or 70% at least. It is allowed to use a 2 mm vibration-pulp. To reflect noise, it is necessary to process and the inner fillet of the door card, for this you can use noise insulating material. Additionally, this measure will serve protection against moisture and dust.
Flat door map can be treated with trimming.
Average noise insulation
The optimal relationship between quality and price can be achieved by means of medium noise insulation. Special materials in this case are greater, and the principle of installation is somewhat different. The noise from the road is significantly reduced, and in the door you can install acoustics, which will be able to get a good return. The procedure here will be the following:
- The first layer is represented by a 2-millimeter vibration unit. In the zone opposite the dynamics, it is possible to use a thickness of 3 mm and add an acoustic lens. From above, you can glue a noise insulating material, but this stage is not mandatory.
- Use a hard vibrating unit for processing the external philine and the closure of all technological holes.
- Thin vibrating detergent (2 mm) is suitable for processing door cards.
- A five- or ten-minute meal noise absorber is used for the final processing of the entire inner surface.
Maximum noise insulation
The underlisted level of noise insulation will be appropriate if necessary, to mount a powerful speaker system with midbas in doorways. Under such speakers should carefully prepare doors. The main goal in this case will be not to suppress the external noise, although with this function this processing will cope perfectly. Features of the installation of such isolation:
- Vibrating absorbing material with a thickness of 3 mm is worth using as a first layer for processing an external philus. The material is not worth choosing a greater thickness, otherwise the door will become too hard.
- As a second layer, use noise insulating material with a layer of waterproof glue.
- Prepare an aluminum adhesive foil for processing technological holes in the inner filin. Turn on top of the foil Turn the hard vibration insulating material with a thickness of 2 - 3 mm.
- A four-or-five-millimeter noise insulating material will become a finish layer.
- Do not forget to handle the door card. First, cover a noise absorber with a wavy surface (10 - 15 mm), and on top of it vibration insulation with a thickness of 2 mm.
Extreme noise insulation
The key destination of the sound isolation of a given degree is presented by the preparation of the car before the sound pressure competitions or the volume of the front acoustics. To handle the door in this case, you must use the most thick materials to provide the greatest efficiency. The probability of excessive weighting of the doors is too high, but this risk with such tuning is no longer taken into account. Stages of installation of such insulation will be as follows:
- At the first stage, the door reinforcement through aluminum planks pasted on the outer fillet with small intervals. Also, the role of the reinforcing material can be carried out strips of rigid vibration insulating material.
- At the next stage, a vibrating absorbing material with a thickness of 4 mm should be placed between the intervals.
- The following layer is represented by a noise absorber or noise insulating material based on latex film or waterproof glue. Do not forget about the closure of technological windows by aluminum sheets or polyester resin. The upper layer will be represented by vibration insulation with a thickness of 3 - 4 mm.
- Slices of vibration insulation are also used to process the door card, but it is pre-sticking a noise absorber. Its thickness must be the maximum possible. The area covered with a noise absorber directly depends on the amount of speakers installed in the door. Since Midbasov can be several, the door card is fixed on the door of the door through through bolts and only then an acoustic system is mounted.
Hello, dear readers and visited the blog Avtohyd.Ru. Today in the article we will look in detail how the noise insulation of the doors of the car do it yourself. There is nothing difficult in this, and everyone, if desired and the absence of laziness, will be able to perform work as high quality and quickly.
Do not burn the gods and therefore do not need to grasp the difficulties. Always then it will be possible to boast of friends or relatives about the noise insulation of the car doors with your own hands. For new cars, do not need to sound insulation doors. They are in excellent technical condition and car mileage are minimal.
We need noise insulation machines used already sinceching not one hundred thousand kilometers. The first doors of the car begin to skip noises while driving. It acts on most drivers the presence of extraneous sounds annoying. At the first appearances, the problem does not need to postpone its decision in a long box. We must immediately begin to increase the noise insulation of the doors of the car.
Why is the insulation of the car violated?
The use of the car is not always on high-quality asphalt coating. Often you can see the cars carrying the distance and bouncing on the irregularities of the ground road. The poor-quality road covering not only checks the car suspension, it leads to the emergence of the strongest vibration.
Frequent trips to bad roads are fraught with the fact that the fastening elements of the doors, the hood, the trunk and other elements of the body are starting to expose vibration. Of course, for the first or second year of the operation of the car, they cannot manifest themselves, but through the heels of the years will let them know about themselves by the appearance of extraneous noise in the car.
Even the highest quality and expensive car is not protected against the insulation of the cabin. The first doors begin to "noise". By virtue of their frequent use of opening and closing, the integrity of the fasteners and fixing elements is broken. Often, many manufacturers pay minimal attention to the soundproofing of the car doors. The quality of protection against penetration of foreign sounds leaves much to be desired.
That is why the doors of the car are a weak link and first begins to skip outsided sounds. Do not be upset, noise insulation of the car doors with your own hands with proper preparation, does not take a lot of free time. It is necessary to prepare to prepare and you can proceed to work.
The car body is not only the protection of the driver and passengers. He is the real obstacle to penetrate outsiders in the vehicle salon. It must be remembered that the body of the machine is not a one-piece design. It includes many elements and doors including.
Car manufacturers pay special attention to sound insulation of the car. It must be remembered that it directly affects the level of comfortability of a car. The operation of the machine leads to what the insulation of the cabin suffers and decreases. Foreign noises begin to annoy the driver and to some extent affect the safety of the road.
Correctly performed noise insulation of the doors of the car with your own hands makes it possible to reduce the level of noise inside the cabin by 30-40 percent. These are quite large indicators that increase the comfort of driving a vehicle. It is important before starting work to prepare the necessary materials and tools.
Noise insulation of the car doors with its own forces can be divided into several main stages:
Disassembly doors.
Perform work is necessary in a well-lit room. You need to open the doors of the car and proceed to dismantling the trim. The process is quite tedious and takes a lot of free time. You must unscrew all the screws and carefully remove all the clamps.
When disassembling the door, you do not need to hurry, as it is quite high likely to damage the mounting elements of the door weft. Removing the trim, it is advisable to remember the disassembly process. It will be needed later when you need to install everything in place.
After the car's door trim, you can not dismantle the glass lift mechanism. It will not interfere with the work on the noise insulation of the doors. The mechanism of opening and closing doors can not be removed similarly.
Removing factory isolation.
In the second stage it is necessary to remove the material of the factory noise insulation of the car doors. Due to the age and exposure to external negative factors, it is outdated and no longer can be used.
In addition to removing the soundproof material, you need to remove the anti-corrosion protection of the metal metal. Ultimately, it should be pure from any metal materials. Before the next stage of the noise insulation of the doors of the car on its own, the working surface should be deguted to ensure reliable fixation of the soundproofing material used.
Noise insulation of the doors of the car.
To improve the soundproofing capacity of the automotive door, its inner surface must be placed by a special vibration-fixing material. Usually used Vibroplast or other material similar in its properties.
It is necessary to glue them the maximum possible interior area of \u200b\u200bthe car. Be sure to pay attention to all technological niches or holes. If they do not stick them, they can become sources of penetration of sounds and then all the work will go to the cat under the tail.
Noise insulation of the doors of the car significantly improves the acoustic properties of the cabin. To enhance the sound of full-time speakers, in front of them in the doors, glue the elements cut from the vibroplast cut into the door.
Fully accumulate the entire surface of the door with the material for sound insulation is not worth it. Vibroplast As if the sponge absorbs moisture and therefore can create excellent conditions for the development of the corrosion process. In the door begins to accumulate and gather moisture.
All technological openings of the door doors are sealed with vibroplast from the inside. The most important thing is not to overdo it and do not use an excessive amount of material. Some car enthusiasts thereby disturb the operation of the mechanism of the windows and locking the doors. No need to forget that a large amount of material is driving the automotive door. Thus, you can disrupt the operation of the door opening and closing the door.
After the inner surface of the door is saved by vibroplast, you can proceed to apply the following material. Used Bitoplast Thickness at least 10 millimeters.
Noise insulation doors.
After completing work with the inner surface of the door, you can proceed to the trim. Many do not pay proper attention to it and is committed at groundless. The door cover also needs insulation. The entire surface of the sheathing experts are recommended to pass by the Bitoplast. According to the contour of the casing, where the material serves can be triggered.
The finishing final stage of the noise insulation of the car doors with your own hands is the assembly to the initial state of each door of the car. In front of this, windows, opening and door closing mechanisms are subjected to performance.
All materials used for soundproofing the car must be prehered. If there is no professional construction dryer, you can use an ordinary home for drying hair. The preheated pre-material is better stacked and glued to the metal surface.
If, when opening or closing the door, the symbols are clearly listened and other outside sounds can be used to remove squeaks. Bitolone. A fairly convenient and effective means to eliminate squeaks. This will make it possible to make the process of opening and closing the doors almost silent.
Why do you need to make noise insulation of the car doors with your own hands?
After a few years, even after buying a new car, extraneous noises can appear inside the cabin. If at first they do not cause a special concern from the driver, then over time after the amplification, they begin to annoy quite strongly.
Conducting noise insulation of the machine will significantly increase driving comfort. Often, extraneous noises distract the driver from driving a vehicle. All this negatively affects the safety of driving a car. Strengthening sound insulation will give the opportunity to reduce the risk of an accident.
Noise insulation of the doors of the car will significantly increase the acoustic capabilities of the vehicle salon. Music sound quality will increase. After performing the work, all rattling sounds and vibration arising during the movement of the vehicle will disappear.
No need to forget that the noise insulation of the doors of the machine has a positive effect on reducing heat loss. In the car, even with the engine turned off, a positive air temperature is retained.
Means for conducting noise insulation of the doors of the car do it yourself
Today on sale you can find a large amount of means of sound insulation of the inner surface of the car door. They differ among themselves by price and quality.
The following popular sound insulation materials can be distinguished:
1.Vibroplast Silver 100, the cost of 0.5 m² of $ 7-8 $ dollars.
Durable and convenient material for carrying insulation of automotive doors. The average sheet size is 0.5 m². Mass of one sheet up to 1.5 kg. To achieve the maximum result, the processing area must reach up to 80%.
It has a high ability to vibrating umbilted. Before starting work, it is necessary to heat the surface of the material with a hairdryer. The average thickness of the material is 2 millimeters.
2. Circle vibrate standard, cost per 0.3 m² material 4-5 $ dollars.
This article is written with masters from a certified studio of sound insulation STP-TEHNO. All photos / video materials are formed for simple perception. You can purchase any materials in our store.
Also, this article contains extremely much information. We recommend to stock tea and cookies)
Enjoy reading!
Immediately it is worth noting that we will not tell you that you need to thoroughly rinse the doors, degreased and blah blah blah ... This is also clear.
The most important points you need to know:
1. Do not try to take there, where they can not be able to take. Normally roll the material in these places, you will not succeed.
2. Do not roll the amplifier. There is no sense from this.
3. Do not attempt to "connect" the door amplifier and the main metal door. At best, you will get a useless hemorrh. At worst, metal rot. Because Plain without "air bags" will simply fail.
4. Use a construction hairdryer to roll even that vibra that does not require heating. This is true if those are very small, and a large pressure on the material cannot be developed to the tool. Hot vibra, much more complicated and easier in the order.
5. Use materials only with moisture-resistant glue as the second layer inside the doors. At best, the material will simply cut down and ripped windows. In the worst, you can generally lose the windows.
6. Do not try to take 100% of the area, it is still not possible. And the difference between the standard sizing, which we describe below and 100% - will not even see the device. In the internet you can find a bunch of photos on this topic. And believe me, the game is not worth the game. It is better to approach this issue technically correctly than spending the days on the span it is not clear why.
7. Do not try to remove the staff vibration if it is well held. At best, you threaten the loss of the pile of time. At worst, caring to the painter for straightening dents.
8. Use as an additional tool "blades" to disassemble the cabin, wrenched keys. This will allow you when rolling the material, develop a large pressure on the material. Fairly, if the standard tool (roller) is not to bring out.
9. Immediately cut out the "Mirror" material for another door. This will significantly speed up the process.
10. And perhaps the main thing. Favorite statement of all. Want to do well, do it yourself. In this case, it does not work. We can bring a bunch of examples when such clever people came with disassembled doors to complete work. And when there are still shields on the doors, then the probability of settling with lifts cables is rising hundreds of times. If you are not confident in your root. Do not poke, give this work to professionals. Heroes do not need to build out of themselves. It usually does not lead to anything good. It is better to observe nearby when you will do it in the studio.
Before us, a completely ordinary door.
The main points are 3!
Moment 1 (red arrow up).Top doors amplifier. Do not try to roll it. It will come in handy when the second layer is mounted. Better, back from it about 1 cm. It will be much more useful.
Moment 2 (red arrow down).The same applies to the amplifier, do not try to climb him. Little clearance leave - the best solution.
Moment 3. At the edges of the doors, also leave the gap. Usually, the edges are narrowing the doors, and tool to bring it there is extremely prolematic. The same applies to the part of the doors, which is closer to the hinges. We already pass guides lifts, harnesses and extravitels. Do not try to climb there. Believe me, you do not need it.
Moment 4. At the bottom of the door, it is not necessary to descend. Usually, in these places OOO -ochen a lot of anticorros. It is enough to retreat from Niza 3-5 cm. And there is a good access there, and anticorrosive in place, and the risk to set smaller.
So, for example, we cut pieces that we glue the inside the doors. If the upper part (top of the amplifier) \u200b\u200bis increasingly less clear how to do, then under the amplifier, often afraid to sick. We are talking about profiles (with pipes easier).
And everything is quite simple. Cut the desired piece. Wake up the door and glue the upper part of the vibra to the amplifier. And in such a way that the vibration did not enter the amplifier by more than 1 cm. Press the material slightly. The bottom of the material, let it be simply hanging in the air.
Then press to metal the bottom of the material
But now, we spare the part that was on the amplifier, and sample the material from the bottom up! Transferring the vibra just under the amplifier. Thus, it turns out even, beautiful and convenient for rolling a piece.
Well, with Vibra is perhaps the easiest. With a leisurely work and adequate understanding, it will be quite beautiful, and the main thing is the effective door.
Now the second layer. I repeat that the prerequisite is that it will be a material with moisture-resistant glue.
In fact, all the same as with Vibra. Only a little easier. (I don't have to roll).
Tip: To cut out the most correct piece, count the squares on the flux (approximately at least). On STP materials each square - 5 cm on any side. Then you will get almost accurate sizes of a piece to be cut.
Tip 2: Do not try to shove in the door the whole leaf of Shumkov. This is not always possible. It is better to cut it on some relatively small parts. So it will be much more convenient. Plus, less likely to blame material. The main condition, it is most tightly mounting sheets to each other as much as possible, to obtain a smaller number of slots.
Actually, cutting pieces, top, suck the material under the top amplifier as tightly. This will ensure that water flow through the door seals. And in the event that the amplifier does not have obvious protrusions (which will hide the end inside), then simply mount the material exactly to the end.
At the bottom of the door, we do the same as with the Vibra. We glue the top of the material on the amplifier
We press the lower part to the curb and smoothed the material from the bottom up!
Important! Do not try the same second layer, climb into hard-to-reach places. Efficiency will not add, and the nerves will save.
So we get about such a door option
Now collect the door back. It is worth noting a few things.
1.
Roll metal vibro, it is worth it when it is very "liquid" or ringing. In another case, this is essentially not required (purely our IMHO).
2.
Close up of technicality, recommended in any case. Because In fact, you close a hefty "hollow", from where all the noise from the doors in the salon will go.
3.
If you plan to change the full-time speakers, the techness should be closed with more rigid materials. For example, bombs or a visomat. For standard systems, standard Aero is quite enough.
4.
Hold the wiring under the layer of soft noise insulator or not, decide for you.
Now it is time for soft material on the outer part of the door.
It is better to use the amount of material in this case: 1 door - 1 sheet. Dotteurism to engage, very ungrateful matter. It is harder, and there will be no tangible savings.
We tear the protective film from the material. Yes, it is from a whole sheet. (You can call a friend). Why completely? Because in most cases it is a film. And the film has a property to break. So if you tear off a little first film, and then you will try to remove it when the material is glued on top. That film can break, and then catch the remnants on the material when it is glued, then the pleasure ... and we apply the material on the door. In no case can not pressed. Otherwise, everything is spent ...
Now, starting from any upper angle, we cross the material in the end of the seal. It is necessary in order to be a bend covering not fought about metal doors. You can certainly not straight into dense, but bending to close necessarily.
Now, it's time to cut the place under the speaker. Not very tight, press the material on the basket of the speaker. Follow the edge of the basket, and gently reduce the material exactly along the edge of the basket.
Then, climb the material on the base, and admire a good neckline. Which, by the way, compensates and not very dense adjacent of the dynamics to the door.
Now it's time to crop all the material along the door contour. This is a rather thin process.
Tip: With initial disassembly of the door, pay attention to how the skin is sewed to the door. Usually, the trim is mounted on some "elevations" which are standing in the door profile. Carefully looking, you can easily understand how to crop the future material.
Here we will need a sooo sharp blade. Applying the material, make an incision somewhere from above. Feel the blade of the material thickness, as well as the effort that is required for cutting.
Then, barely gone on the blade, spend it across the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe material, thereby forming the cut slicer line. Next, swipe the blade along the same line again, gone a little stronger. You must have about 2/3 of the thickness of the material. Everything. It turned out) the rest, just take off. This cut is enough that the material would break away exactly along the line that was cut
You will get something like that. And it will be cut to the maximum, and the LCP does not try.
Now, the clips queue. In modern cars, landing places are made on small "podiums". Just after trimming and sizing the doors, these places will be well molded and visible.
Fasting the data of the place, simply, we cut the circle, the diameter of which, slightly more than the outer diameter of the clip.
Now proceed with the processing of the door weighing. And here is also a lot of nuances!
Important remark!
We adhere to this sequence of actions. This is due to the following:
1. It takes much less time
2. So more convenient
3. A more efficient distribution of the Master Forces
4. More efficient use of materials.
This sequence is checked on hundreds of doors, and continues to be used to this day.
Well, perhaps let's start.
Because The life of the Lifehak is based on Skoda Octavia A7 RS, then it is worth noting that the plates in Octavia (from the inside) are not plastic. Something like a pressed synthetic felt.
The vibration is not glued to it. Yes, and it is not required. Sheathing on Skoda resonate extremely rarely. Therefore, we will not sharpen attention on this.
Let's go to the second layer immediately. In our case, he is the only one.
In our understanding, Shvi is some kind of art. It should be effectively, and beautiful. Why do it ugly? That's right, there is no need. And when it also performs its function by 300%, then we are going in the right direction.
As a basis, we take the sheet of STP biplast Premium 20mm.
Deploy sheet. We put on the trim
Important: in no case do not press the material. It will be almost impossible to spare it without disrupting the integrity of the material. Just put, and that's it.
Filing up the top (place of the casing of the plating in the "glass" glass ").
And lay the material to the maximum in the bend. But the upper part near the edge, until we glue. We will work further.
We got this kind. A little material sticks out from above. Now we will correct it.
We have a trim so that the sliced \u200b\u200bpiece was closer to us. The rest of the trim - should look from us.
take the hands sharp! blade. We have it so that the main blade canvas lightened to the trim. And begin cutting. At the same time, the blade should be sent when cuttingPUSH! It is important. No way forward-back. Only forward. Moved the blade and on the new one. Only forward!
Important: Blade cutter has a wedge-shaped form. Therefore, if the blade blade is tightly attached to the trim, then when cutting the material, you do not cut the trim and do not harm yourself.
IMPORTANT: Cut in the segment, it is worthwhile from yourself! Because When cutting on itself, part of the material (thin layer) will go under the blade. And this in turn will lead to the fact that the blade will walk in different directions due to a loose fit. When the blade is directed from itself, the blades in the additives will pull the cut edge of the material that in the follow-up, forms a "side" which is very convenient to use as an anti-slip layer (if the cut on the side of the trim).
After trimming, we tear the material from the side and put it to the end to the bend. It turns out such a beautiful bend of a material that carries a huge function. Just this material will fill the emptiness between the top bend of the door and the shelf itself.
If the space is too large, you can use the additional pump from the purpose of the material that remains with trimming.
The next step is the launching of all bends, recesses, etc. around the perimeter of the entire trim.
Important: Do not pull the material. Yes, these materials are perfectly drawn. But it will be much better and more convenient if you deliver the material and pacify it gently on bending.
It's time clips. Ohhhh, there is a whole problem with many. And everything is much simpler, gentlemen)
We route the material near the clips
We are making the material around the clips. Everything is simple.
Step 1. Sprinkle the top clips.
Step2. Making incision exactly preseridine clips. Length of the cut just more clips itself. For example, if the clips with a diameter of about 1 cm, then the end of a long 1.5 cm is quite enough.
Step3. Take a clips through a slot.
Step4. "Wrap" the material around the clips.
We have already become a very premature trim. But it is still a semi-finished product. Let's bring to the final product.
Now cut out the material under the speaker. You can of course just cut down the hole. But it is not beautiful, and even if you deepen, it is not effective.
We combine beauty and efficiency in the following way.
Almost every "grill" under the speaker is a small side. Some are big. Sometimes it is happening that there is no boring at all, then the holes will not be able to avoid \u003d))
Sprinkle this facet fingers
Cut the hole (all the same, it's not going anywhere from it \u003d)) a diameter less than a diameter of the side somewhere by 1 cm.
And just deploy material overboard. At the same time, in this place, the material is stretched around the circle. What does it give us? And this gives us a good fixation of the material, so that he would not get on the diffuser of Midbas and did not make extra sounds later. And no matter how beautiful, well, agree)
P.S. In this stage, you can cut the material and under the castle traction, wiring, etc.
It turns out something like this.
Well, the matter is left for small. Crop our trim around the perimeter.
There are 3 options here. All 3 options we describe at a time. You just need to use the desired. All 3 options concern the "profile" of the trim.
Option 1. O. the styscker has a fat profile that has a large area of \u200b\u200bfitting to the door.
Option 2. The casing has a thin profile, and has a small area of \u200b\u200bfitting to the door.
Option 3. Combination of options 1 and 2. For example, if the lifting of 2 different materials, etc.
In our case, we use version number 3.
The upper part of the skin is covered with skin and has a thin profile. The rest of the sheaving has a thick profile of plastic.
With a thin profile of the trim, we do exactly the same way as they did at the very beginning with the top of the trim. Here everything is exactly the same, only the material we do not wrap later, but we leave as it is in place.
We also route the material, cut.
And reach a thick profile
To make a neat cut, we will also need a very sharp blade!
We need to do from your fingers, something like "guides". It's just done.
We take the blade and clamp it in the pads of the big and middle fingers. And in such a way that the blade would be located in the middle of the pads. The rest of the big and middle finger should "hug" the very profile of the door card. We get some kind of "rails" on which the blade will go.
The blade should be approximately 45 degrees relatively cut bundle.
Now the index finger is located on top of the blade. This will create the required pressure on the cutter, which is very easy and quickly will make a neat cut.
Now that our blade is fixed, we just spend from beginning to end. Pressure on the blade Choose an experimental way. Usually, with sharp blades, you do not need a lot of pressure.
The blade, due to the fact that we hugged the fingers "the end of the sheath, goes on the rails. Exactly in the middle, forming the perfect slice
As a matter of fact, we have such a pretty skin, which not only glances, but also carries the maximum efficiency!
If all those who are interested in how the door is being processed by the first layer, then you apply the photo. Purchased mainly pockets, places near the speakers and other planes, clearly susceptible to resonation.
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