Introducing the Quadrocycle of our permanent author S. Plentneva from the city of Points of Perm Region. The next car constructed indicates the increased design level and the professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself ...
Cow a year since then when having left the garage, tested its first quad bike with the rear leading wheels (). And now I came to: and now it is now all-wheel drive ATV (from the English All Terrain. Vehicle - all-terrain vehicle; Such an international designation received similar cars).
Fortunately, at that time the buyer was turned up on Buggy (), and the revenue money went to the implementation of a new project.
Labor year 3 - 4 hours after work and on weekends - and new car It was ready for testing, there were only small (and I would say pleasant) refinement: connecting light equipment, installing the ignition lock, rear view mirrors and other little things.
The power unit for my quad bike was the motor from the "Oka" - 32-strong, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid cooling. And if for the car its power often turned out to be not enough, then for quad bikes should have been enough with interest.
Machine frame - spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: the upper and lower) are made of round tubes of type VGP-25 (water-based diameter of 25 mm with a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (so-in, crossbar, etc.) - from WGT-20. Spars - bent: the lower in the horizontal plane, the top - in the vertical. Flex a pipe on the pipe bender, "on the cold". The eyeles (pairs of ears) for fastening the levers and shock absorbers of the suspension welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets - as nodes and aggregates (by "place").
1 - front wheel (from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);
2 - engine (from the car "Oka");
3 - transmissions of the front wheel drive;
4 - transmission box (from the car "Oka");
5 - transmissions of the rear wheel drive;
7 - rear wheel (from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);
8 - fuel tank (20-liter canister);
9 - rear trunk;
10-blower;
11-Sprinkle Passenger Support (headrest from the "Oka" car);
12 - saddle;
13 - clutch basket (from the "Oka" car);
14 - lever fixing gear;
15 - body kit (fiberglass);
16 - steering wheel (from the motorcycle "Ural");
17 - instrument shield (from the car "Oka");
18 - front trunk
The transmission of all-terrain vehicles is peculiar. Although the machine is all-wheel drive, but dispensing box There is no. As you know, the engine is located in the "Oka", and on the Quad bike it is set along. This allowed to direct the output shafts from the transmission change box (CAT) not on the right and left wheel (both in the car), but on the front and rear axle. That's just myself force aggregate, Breakfied with a "basket" of clutch and gearbox, had to be moved relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry a little left to reduce the horizontal angle of longitudinal swivels of transmissions. Well, their vertical angles were insignificant.
Sound transmission from units of various domestic cars, mostly "VAZ" models. But the finished industrial aggregates also had to refine. For example, from the PPC (from Oki) to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase the torque removed the main gear pair and replaced it on the chain transmission. The shifting stock also made another - extended, with releases on both sides of the checkpoint. The rod can be recorded in three positions: to include the 1st and 2nd gear, 3rd and 4th and rear. The selection lever of these provisions is on the right side, and the speed switch lever is with the left.
Intercolese reducers - from rear axles VAZ "Classics", only their semi-axes together with "stockings" are removed and replaced with shafts with shurthers from front-wheel drive models. Shruses as hinges are used in the remaining intermediate trash shafts.
1 - Motor (from the car "Oka");
2 - grip (from the car "Oka");
3 - gear change box;
4 - Sls (from car VAZ-2108, 12 pcs);
5 - gearbox of the main transmission with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);
6 - shaft (from car VAZ-2108, 6 pcs.);
7 - Wheel (from the Chevrolet-Niva car)
There are no reduced gears and blocking differentials.
Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automotive type (with steering rods) - downstairs, just simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one piece. The steering wheel first used from the Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a bit thin. Later found and set from the "Ural" motorcycle. The steering shaft is from the pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a thickness of the wall of 2.8 mm. At the bottom end, it has a stroke limiter. At the bottom of the shaft rests on the stubborn bearing, and in the middle part turns into the junction of the piping bracket-sleeve.
The sump is made of a steel sheet with a thickness of 8 mm in a form resembling the letter "T". The edge of the "racks" performed a hole with a diameter of 20 mm - the steering shaft is inserted into it, and in the ears - the tapered holes under the ball tips of the steering. These holes are enhanced by suitable welded washers. The bark ears are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the traction.
The wheels are 15-inch, from the car "Chevrolet-Niva". Tires with an appropriate planting diameter of 205/70 (width / height as a percentage of width) with off-road tread pattern. The diameter of the wheel running is about 660 mm.
1 - Lower spar (pipe D25x3,2,2,2 pcs.);
2 - upper spar (pipe D25x3,2,2 pcs.);
3 - Rack (pipe D25x3,2, 2 pcs.);
4 - support of the rear top lever suspension (pipe D25x3,2,2 pcs.);
5 - rear pitch (pipe D20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
6 - support front top lever suspension (pipe D25x3,2, 2 pcs.);
7 - front pitch (pipe D20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
8 - upper support front shock absorber (35 × 35 corner);
9 - top shock absorber top support (sheet S5, 2 pcs.);
10 - Front engine mounting rack (sheet S3, 2 pcs.);
11 - Rear reference rack of engine mounting (sheet S3,2 pcs.);
12 - eyelets of fastenings of levers and suspension shock absorbers (sheet S5, 18 pairs);
13 - Bracket fastening the saddle (sheet S3, 2 pcs.);
14 - upper transverse connection (pipe D20x2.8);
15 - lower transverse connection (pipe D20x2.8.2 pcs.);
16 - radiator support (pipe D25x3.2 cut along half, 2 pcs.);
17 - front console footboard (pipe D20x2);
18 - rear console footage (pipe D20x2);
19 - Communication of the front and rear consoles of the footboard (pipe D20x2);
20 - crossing the steps (sheet S5, 4 pcs.);
21 - UCHO fastening fiberglass kit (sheet S5, set)
Suspension wheels - independent, on two triangular transverse levers each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the "Oka" car (front). The levers are welded from round tubes of type VGP-20. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the "Oka" car (rear). In the wheels of the front levers, the hubs are welded and swivel fists - From the car VAZ-2109. And those and others had to modify. In the hubs installed studs under the wheels from "Niva", and in the front fists - home-made swivel levers.
The muffler is homemade, two-piece. To protect against temperature storage boxes, covered with a remote cover, and insulated asbestos inlet.
Body body kit - fiberglass. He shouted it for the first time, and therefore first examined the recommendations for the implementation of the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.
(A - upper front suspension lever; b - lower front pendant lever; in - bottom lever rear suspension; g - top lever rear suspension; All items, except marked, are made of pipe VGT-20):
1 - beam (2 pcs.);
2 - cross;
3 - sleeve (pipe D37x32, 2 pcs.);
4 - dressing of the shock absorber (steel, sheet S3);
5 - ball hinge (from the steering thrust of the car "Zhiguli")
First made from steel square pipe section 10x10x1 mm Required body contours. Fortunately, this pipe is easily neat even with his hands through the knee. The contour welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where then (after dusting of the kit), it would be possible to cut the "tape". Then, bent from an organity (wood-fiber plate) "Wings" and fixed them with self-draws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend was obtained steep, fastened individual strips from the same organity. The front ended with a neopolistir acquired in a shopping store. It was possible to use foam or the same mounting foam, but the polystyrene foam turned out to be a more appropriate material - it is well cut in a sharp thin knife. Separate elements of it glued into the overall design on the mounting foam.
1 - steering shaft (pipe D20x2.8);
2 - steering connection plate (steel, sheet S6);
3 - plate plate (steel, sheet S6, 2 pcs.);
4 - Rubber Bracket Sleeve Steering Shaft (Capron, S18 Sheet);
5 - Support washer (steel, sheet S6, 2 pcs.);
6 - Cup (steel, sheet 18);
7 - steering wheel limiter (steel, S6 sheet);
8 - Bearing hull;
9 - stubborn tip (steel, circle 15);
10 - Thrust Bearing
Filshbak - complex shape. It did not seem to be taken out of the organity. Therefore, by climbing the engine with a plastic film, it began to fill the places of the mounting foam intended for it. After each layer is a mandatory drying, otherwise the thick volume of the foam may not dry inside. Filled until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after complete drying, the foam became a knife to withdraw the desired shape. The verge burned down coarse sandpaper.
Under the instrument shield went into the course of dashboard "Oka". I fastened it on the blank, too, using a mounting foam. Since foam is a large, pores filled with plaster and then processed. When the shape of the blanks began to answer the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, covered the workpiece of PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make the matrix on the nerve for dusting of the kit, and immediately soldered the bodywork on it, followed by the end of the surface to the perfect state, then the shpocking of the plaster and the painting of the nerve could be neglected.
So, the Bolon is ready and to solder the quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer to it and 1 kg hole-callee, 15 robust meters of non-footwork fiberglass, 5 m of glass, brushes, gloves. It is very desirable to work in the means that protect the breath. And what they are more expensive, the more reliable. But the experience, as is known, can not buy, so it was gained in the process of work.
A transparent scotch used as a separation layer between the nerd and the product. Thoroughly, without skipping, glued to his stripes. There was only 1.5 rolls of wide scotch.
Divorced a resin on 200 - 300 grams with a hardener and plasticizer. Applied measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before that, cut the strips of fiberglass with such dimensions so that large cloths lay on the smooth surfaces, and on the irregularities, the sections of the fabric were able to repeat them without making folds. By the way, fiberglass to the measure stretches on the diagonal of the weave, "flowing" the desired form.
At first, one piece of nerve was smelled to thick epoxy resin, put the fiberglass on it and the resin was again impregnated from above. The neighboring piece of the cloth was glued by the same technology with a twist of 3 - 5 cm. Work had a spore - resin grabbed pretty quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, another resin has a slightly heated near the powerful lighting lamp for better flow.
After jumping a fiberglass in one layer, began to shock it with glassate. The glass made me quite thick, and they turned out to be good to dial the thickness of the product. But it does not fit irregularities, so I used it only on even (or with unrocked deflection) surfaces and without a twist. The impregnation of the resin was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be noted that the resin for the impregnation of stiposate goes a lot, so it is necessary to breed it more. The uneven surfaces after the stickers of the stroke gambled into a few layers of the cloth. Each subsequent layer imposed after the previously gripped the previous one, so as not to break down the resin. And since the process of body cutting took no one day, after a day of the break "rough" the surface of large sandpaper and degrease - because the resin is completely cured during this time. The final layers over the mat again covered the glass kits, and not even one layer.
Trunks:
a - front; B - rear
Since I needed the surface, as they say, than it is even better, the better, and the experience was not enough, then the failures and pits still remained - poured them wherever one resin, and where and with the imposition of fiberglass pieces. The resins did not have enough. I did not buy in Khozmaga, in boxes. I liked working with her more, because it was already packaged, and it remained only to mix the components. And she dried quickly than acquired on the company.
After a complete drying of the soldered body kit made a propyl in it, separating the product to three parts: rear wings and a back, a rashhead with a podswing, front wings and front. Caution, slightly going down and pulling out with arms with hint, separated the product in parts without much effort from the nerd.
Now, removing the part, began to process them separately, bringing to the desired result. In general, ordinary preparatory and painting work on "all" technology: first coarse grinding with the removal of large resin and fiberglass convexities; Then the painstaking embezzlement with a putty with fiberglass recesses; Next, grinding the outer surface and primer with a plasticizer. In conclusion - painting "metallic" and a coating with a varnish with a plasticizer.
The boyfriend also cut off and put it in a distant corner - just in case. Bidding attached to specially made and welded "on the place" fasteners on the frame.
At the end, it was welded from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm front and rear trunk, and in addition to them - and "kenguryatniki" replacing bumpers.
The main data of the Quadrocycle:
Mass, kg ............................................................ 430
Length, mm ............................................. 2300
Width, mm.
(on the outer sidewalls of tires) ......... 1250
Height, mm:
ruly ..............................................1250
on the saddle ........................................................... ..900
Road clearance, mm ........................ .300
Base, mm ................................................ 1430
Pitch, mm ............................................. 1045
Maximum speed, km / h ................65
S. Plenthen, G. Steen, Perm Region
Quadrocycles are becoming increasingly popular because of their lightness, maneuverability, high passability and at the same time compactness. Indeed, quad bike is something mean between the all-terrain and motorcycle. He also has a high-speed all-terrain vehicle, it can be used to travel around the rough terrain, off-road, in the mountains or forest, but at the same time, in contrast to the motorcycle, quad bike is more stable.
Homemade all-wheel drive quadrocycles - our answer is expensive technique
There is a quadorocyclone, and not everyone can afford it. But to construct homemade quad bike 4x4 quite just need only old parts from a car or motorcycle, a little fantasy and a huge desire. By the way, it is all all-wheel drive quadrocycles are greater popularity due to their passability and every-purpose.
How to start to build a quad bike with your own hands?
On the Internet you can find many forums or alteration sites, where it is described and it is also described in stages, how to build, so finding information on this issue is not so difficult. It is much more difficult to disassemble the drawings, especially if you do not have the necessary skills. But without drawings, the homemade all-wheel drive quad bike cannot be causing, in principle, as any other technique. So if there is a dream to dissect around the terrain on the ATV of the self-assembly, you will have to deal with the drawings. Well, if you have a technical education and you know exactly how the machine units are working, you can build your drawing to make a unique technique.
Quadrocycle transmission scheme:
As a basis for quad bikes, more often take the "OKU", "ZAZ", "Ural" or "Minsk", but those spare parts that you are lying as trash in the garage are suitable. Some parts will still have to buy, but still build much more profitable than get ready. Yes, and in case of breakdowns to find spare parts for your national team from "Vase", "Urals", etc. Quadrocycle, it will be much easier than the expensive technique of imported production.
Today we will look at how to collect present quad bikeusing car spare parts from VAZ, Oka and various materialsWhat is in everyone in the garage.
This all-terrain vessel was manufactured for use solely for entertainment ride. Based on this, in the process of its creation, the author took into account the factory quad bikes and its own car. As a result, a quad bike with nearby distinctive featureswhich improved it on the passability and significantly allocated, in comparison with the industrial production quad bikes.
To create all-terrain vehicles from materials were taken:
Fragment of the tap pipe, diameter 32 mm;
tube 27 mm;
engine internal combustion from the car Oka 11113;
transmission box of the same machine;
front and rear gearbox from a vase;
hubs, grenades from VAZ 2109;
Fiberglass.
List of used tools:
welding machine;
drill;
Bulgarian;
spanners;
a hammer;
knife;
calipers;
roulette.
Step by step description - assembly of quad bikes do it yourself
First of all, a frame was made - from a plumbing pipe with a diameter of 32 mm. The ATV suspension is made on its own - for this you need to take A-shaped levers made of a pipe with a diameter of 27 mm. An engine and gearbox is installed from the OK machine, the differential is brewed.
Gear ratio is 43 to 11 this is about the front and rear gearboxThey were redone for inner grenades from VAZ 2109.
Disc brakes with hubs, too, from VAZ 2109, and the wheels 15 of the radius are installed through spacers.
Next, the craftsmen installed and configured the clutch of the all-terrible quad bike:
At first it was decided to arrange the clutch on the steering wheel - like a motorcycle. But in the end it was placed under the leg on the left side. And although it became an unusual option, as for quad bickers, but nevertheless, convenient for the author. In the process of driving, the transmission switches easily and clearly. At the same time, the all-terrain vehicle can be touched from any transmission, with a passenger on board including - the engine has sufficient power. Translations have to be switched not often. If you go on the way, the third-fourth transmission is usually included, off-road - the first second as low.
The author built a dispensing box of his own design, which made it possible to turn off the front axle. Here we can see the photo, where the entire mechanism of turning off the front bridge is presented, the main parts of the structure are presented:
Rear Suspension of the Quadrocycle. We prepare the frame before plane it with fiberglass, after which we so impregnate the epoxy resin.
Customize and grind fiberglass on the housing, the next step is painting.
In the all-terrain, we hid the radiator under the plastic before the instrument shield. Although there is a very small hole, but it is quite enough to cool the quad bike. It should be borne in mind that, if you ride a strong dirt, the hole can be scored, and cooling will be complicated. But nevertheless, as practice shows, when moving on a serious off-road, the fan copes well with similar tasks. It turns on only with very serious loads, which is very rare.
The fact is that the all-terrain vehicle, which we collected, is quite low, and in this case the engine from Okey copes very well with the tasks of the Quadrocycle.
Here is a photo with the location of the radiator:
Video tests of quad bike 4x4
How to make homemade quad bikes - a question that is the dream of almost any young designer.
However, this kind of dreams are carried out far from all and far from at that age in which I would like. But sometimes the dreamers still embody the desired reality.
Drawing skills, the ability to perform complex technological processesThe estate and time estate is the basic requirements when creating a self-made vehicle.
Today we will tell you about how to construct homemade quad bikes, using spare parts from Oka and show this process using photo selection.
You can find out one of the ways and make sure that the self-creating of an auto parts can be done in the example below.
All-wheelwater quad bike on the basis of the car "Oka" with their own hands (Lover Designer Sergey Pletnev)
To begin with, give general characteristics Project:
- Length - 2300 mm;
- Width - 1250 mm;
- Height - (extreme points of the wheels) - 1250 mm;
- Base - 1430 mm;
- Clearance - 300 mm;
- Engine - got from the car "Oka";
- Wheels - discs: "VAZ" 2121 (Niva);
- Tires - coordiantoffroadr15;
- Shock absorbers - "Oka";
- Hubs - "VAZ" 2109;
- Inter-wheeled gearboxes - "VAZ" classic
- Maximum speed - 60 km / h
- The gearbox taken from "Oka" was modified by replacing the standard main pair of gear on the chain drive.
Made it was to increase speed on roven road. And it looks like this:
Assembled
In disassembled form
In the form of carrier parts, the frames perform water pipes (VGP 25x3,2). Were purchased in the form of two segments of 7900 mm and weighing 38 kg in the amount of 1150 rubles.
For levers and suspensions, water pipes were also required (20x2,8) - two segments of 6100 mm long, 20 kg weighing 650 rubles.
Two used rear bridges from "penny" (VAZ 2101) - in the amount of 3000 rubles.
From the "eight" (VAZ 2108), fists assembled with discs, calipers and other steels of drives - in the amount of all these bu parts were spent 4000 rubles.
Metal sheets, nuts, bolts, washers, silent blocks, and others were useful - consumables and materials for such cases should always be enough.
From the above parts using welding, pipe bending and plumbing tools, this design was created.
With the help of welding, most structural parts are bonded. A carburetor was installed.
Homemade all-wheel drive quadrocycle carburetor
Metal plates for suspension, engine and bridges are also fixed with welds
The hubs are connected to the suspension new phthulates, washers and bolts
After the frame was collected, the miscalculations of the nuances of the engine position, the functional of the gearbox and its mounting, as well as the front suspension with the steering wheel, began.
As a result, the following moves were applied:
From the rear post, the semi-axes are connected to the hubs. Fastening for shock absorbers
In the gearbox applies the elongated stemman production
The picture shows how the fastening for the box and the position of the rod was connected
The swivel fist is taken from the "VAZ" 2109 and the steering tower is made of metal plate alone
After a small test drive, it was noticed that the stem from the box would need a scene to switch the hand gear - this is the most convenient option in the case of a modified box.
It must be said that it was modified to increase the gear ratio from the axis to the wheels, since without this intervention, the speed at maximum revolutions would not be given above 45 km / h.
Further assembly
Side bridges are welded to the frame, the front axle is installed, to front bridge Cardan from the gearbox is connected, the front shock absorbers are installed. The front edges are connected to the hubs and the bridge
Installed brake system Separately for the wheels
Installed steering and brake system for front wheels
Purchased off-road rubber (in this case most suitable option)
The stage of creating a quadrocycle matrix occurred. Installed mounting foam, cardboard, resin, fiberglass, fittings, etc.
The technology of applying materials when creating a matrix is \u200b\u200ba very complex process that requires a deep and detailed study.
The frame of the wings, as well as the front and rear parts of the facing, is set for easy reinforcement and cardboard. The foam was filled with a margin in places where convex forms were supposed to do.
The dried foam was processed with a furnace hammer, knife and other tools
An oil radiator from the helicopter was installed and the first layer of fiberglass was applied
The front suspension is completely collected. Native ball "VAZ" 2109 below. From above steering tip from "UAZ"
Processed surface. Side view
The hubs were fitted under the wheels of "Niva" with special adapters
View of the hub from the side
The matrix is \u200b\u200balmost ready. Additional parts of the frame provided for use as a trunk and bumper are harvested at the same time.
Homemade seat. The steering wheel is borrowed from the Minsk motorcycle. Controls were summed up.
Painting quadrocycla
Painted suspension elements
Assembly
The final part of the work is an assembly.
Used homemade silencers. Plastic canister used as a gas tank. Electronics mounted.
From another angle.
End of work
Completed work.
The panel is borrowed from the "Oka" car.
Force aggregate homemade quad bike He became a motor from the "Oka" - 32-strong, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid cooling. And if for the car its power often turned out to be not enough, then for quad bikes should have been enough with interest.
And this is just a dream of every man !!! I want this !!!
Frame of homemade quadrocycla - Spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: the upper and lower) are made of round tubes of type VGP-25 (water-based diameter of 25 mm with a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (so-in, crossbar, etc.) - from WGT-20. Spars - bent: the lower in the horizontal plane, the top - in the vertical. Flex a pipe on the pipe bender, "on the cold". The eyeles (pairs of ears) for fastening the levers and shock absorbers of the suspension welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets - as nodes and aggregates (by "place").
Homemade quad bike-The party:
1 - front wheel (from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);
2 - engine (from the car "Oka");
3 - transmissions of the front wheel drive;
4 - transmission box (from the car "Oka");
5 - transmissions of the rear wheel drive;
7 - rear wheel (from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);
8 - fuel tank (20-liter canister);
9 - rear trunk;
10-blower;
11-Sprinkle Passenger Support (headrest from the "Oka" car);
12 - saddle;
13 - clutch basket (from the "Oka" car);
14 - lever fixing gear;
15 - body kit (fiberglass);
16 - steering wheel (from the motorcycle "Ural");
17 - instrument shield (from the car "Oka");
18 - Front Trunk
Transmission homemade quadrocycla - peculiar. Although the machine is all-wheel drive, but there is no dispensing box. As you know, the engine is located in the "Oka", and on the Quad bike it is set along. This allowed to direct the output shafts from the transmission change box (CAT) not on the right and left wheel (both in the car), but on the front and rear axle. Here is just the power unit itself, the clutch and gearbox, signed with the "basket" of the clutch and the checkpoint, had to move relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry slightly left to reduce the horizontal angle of longitudinal swivels of transmissions. Well, their vertical angles were insignificant.
Transmission from the aggregates of various domestic cars, mainly "VAZ" models. But the finished industrial aggregates also had to refine. For example, from the PPC (from Oki) to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase the torque removed the main gear pair and replaced it on the chain transmission. The shifting stock also made another - extended, with releases on both sides of the checkpoint. The rod can be recorded in three positions: to include the 1st and 2nd gear, 3rd and 4th and rear. The selection lever of these provisions is on the right side, and the speed switch lever is with the left.
Intercolese gearboxes - from the rear bridges of the Vazovskaya "Classics", only their semi-axes together with the "stockings" are removed and replaced with shafts with shurthers from front-wheel drive models. Shruses as hinges are used in the remaining intermediate trash shafts.
Cinematic transmission scheme of self-made quadrocycle from Oka
1 - Motor (from the car "Oka");
2 - grip (from the car "Oka");
3 - gear change box;
4 - Sls (from car VAZ-2108, 12 pcs);
5 - gearbox of the main transmission with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);
6 - shaft (from car VAZ-2108, 6 pcs.);
7 - Wheel (from the Chevrolet-Niva car)
There are no reduced gears and blocking differentials.
Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automotive type (with steering rods) - downstairs, just simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one piece. The steering wheel first used from the Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a bit thin. Later found and set from the "Ural" motorcycle. The steering shaft is from the pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a thickness of the wall of 2.8 mm. At the bottom end, it has a stroke limiter. At the bottom of the shaft rests on the stubborn bearing, and in the middle part turns into the junction of the piping bracket-sleeve.
The sump is made of a steel sheet with a thickness of 8 mm in a form resembling the letter "T". The edge of the "racks" performed a hole with a diameter of 20 mm - the steering shaft is inserted into it, and in the ears - the tapered holes under the ball tips of the steering. These holes are enhanced by suitable welded washers. The bark ears are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the traction.
The wheels are 15-inch, from the car "Chevrolet-Niva". Tires with an appropriate planting diameter of 205/70 (width / height as a percentage of width) with off-road tread pattern. The diameter of the wheel running is about 660 mm.
Framework of the homemade quandercike frame:
1 - Lower spar (pipe D25x3,2,2,2 pcs.);
2 - upper spar (pipe D25x3,2,2 pcs.);
3 - Rack (pipe D25x3,2, 2 pcs.);
4 - support of the rear top lever suspension (pipe D25x3,2,2 pcs.);
5 - rear pitch (pipe D20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
6 - support front top lever suspension (pipe D25x3,2, 2 pcs.);
7 - front pitch (pipe D20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
8 - upper support front shock absorber (35 × 35 corner);
9 - top shock absorber top support (sheet S5, 2 pcs.);
10 - Front engine mounting rack (sheet S3, 2 pcs.);
11 - Rear reference rack of engine mounting (sheet S3,2 pcs.);
12 - eyelets of fastenings of levers and suspension shock absorbers (sheet S5, 18 pairs);
13 - Bracket fastening the saddle (sheet S3, 2 pcs.);
14 - upper transverse connection (pipe D20x2.8);
15 - lower transverse connection (pipe D20x2.8.2 pcs.);
16 - radiator support (pipe D25x3.2 cut along half, 2 pcs.);
17 - front console footboard (pipe D20x2);
18 - rear console footage (pipe D20x2);
19 - Communication of the front and rear consoles of the footboard (pipe D20x2);
20 - crossing the steps (sheet S5, 4 pcs.);
21 - UCHO fastening of fiberglass kit (sheet S5, kit)
Suspension wheels - independent, on two triangular transverse levers each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the "Oka" car (front). The levers are welded from round tubes of type VGP-20. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the "Oka" car (rear). In the wheels of the front levers they weld the hubs and swivel fists - from the car VAZ-2109. And those and others had to modify. In the hubs installed studs under the wheels from "Niva", and in the front fists - home-made swivel levers.
The muffler is homemade, two-piece. To protect against temperature storage boxes, covered with a remote cover, and insulated asbestos inlet.
Body body kit - fiberglass. He shouted it for the first time, and therefore first examined the recommendations for the implementation of the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.
Levers suspension wheels
(A - the upper arm of the front suspension; b - the lower arm of the front suspension; in the bottom lever of the rear suspension; G is the top lever of the rear suspension; all parts, except marked, are made of pipe VGT-20):
1 - beam (2 pcs.);
2 - cross;
3 - sleeve (pipe D37x32, 2 pcs.);
4 - dressing of the shock absorber (steel, sheet S3);
5 - ball hinge (from the steering thrust of the car "Zhiguli")
At first, it was made of a steel square pipe with a cross section of 10x10x1mm. Required body contours. Fortunately, this pipe is easily neat even with his hands through the knee. The contour welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where then (after dusting of the kit), it would be possible to cut the "tape". Then, bent from an organity (wood-fiber plate) "Wings" and fixed them with self-draws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend was obtained steep, fastened individual strips from the same organity. The front ended with a neopolistir acquired in a shopping store. It was possible to use foam or the same mounting foam, but the polystyrene foam turned out to be a more appropriate material - it is well cut in a sharp thin knife. Separate elements of it glued into the overall design on the mounting foam.
Steering column assembly:
1 - steering shaft (pipe D20x2.8);
2 - steering connection plate (steel, sheet S6);
3 - plate plate (steel, sheet S6, 2 pcs.);
4 - Rubber Bracket Sleeve Steering Shaft (Capron, S18 Sheet);
5 - Support washer (steel, sheet S6, 2 pcs.);
6 - Cup (steel, sheet 18);
7 - steering wheel limiter (steel, S6 sheet);
8 - Bearing hull;
9 - stubborn tip (steel, circle 15);
10 - Thrust Bearing
Filshbak - complex shape. It did not seem to be taken out of the organity. Therefore, by climbing the engine with a plastic film, it began to fill the places of the mounting foam intended for it. After each layer is a mandatory drying, otherwise the thick volume of the foam may not dry inside. Filled until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after complete drying, the foam became a knife to withdraw the desired shape. The verge burned down coarse sandpaper. 
Under the instrument panel went into the course of the dashboard "Oka". I fastened it on the blank, too, using a mounting foam. Since foam is a large, pores filled with plaster and then processed. When the shape of the blanks began to answer the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, covered the workpiece of PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make the matrix on the nerve for dusting of the kit, and immediately soldered the bodywork on it, followed by the end of the surface to the perfect state, then the shpocking of the plaster and the painting of the nerve could be neglected.
