"" "Karpaty-Sport" "" - slightly different from other models of the Carpathians, it acquired a sporty look and "wild character", which caused the popularity of this model among young people and fans of vivid sensations.
"Karpaty 2 Sport"(LMZ-2.161S, LMZ-2.161S-01) - models " Carpathians 2 " gave a sporty look, an overhead exhaust pipe with a protective casing installed on it, a steering wheel with an additional jumper, a changed shape of the rear lamp and a shield front wheel... The LMZ-2.161S-01 model was equipped with a V501M engine with a foot shift.
== Specifications ==
| Weight, kg | 55 (Carpathians 2 and Carpathians 2 Sport) 56 (Carpathians 2 Lux) |
100 |
| Base, mm | 1200 |
| Length, mm | 1820 |
| Height, mm | 1100 |
| Width, mm | 720 |
| Ground clearance, mm | 100 |
| Maximum design speed, km / h | 40 |
| Fuel consumption at a speed of 30 km / h, l / 100 km | 2,1 |
| Frame | Tubular, welded |
| Front wheel suspension | Telescopic fork with spring-loaded shock absorbers. |
| Rear suspension | Pendulum type with spring shock absorbers. |
| Brakes | Drum type with separate mechanical drive for each wheel. |
| Braking distances | with both brakes V = 30 km / h, 7.5m |
| Tire size | 2.50-16 "or 2.75-16" |
| engine's type | V50 or V501 carburetor, two-stroke, with counter-flow cooling. |
| Working volume, cubic cm | 49,8 |
| Cylinder diameter, mm | 38 |
| Piston stroke, mm | 44 |
| Compression ratio | 7,5 - 8,5 |
| Maximum effective engine power, kW (hp) at 4400 - 5200 rpm | 1,32 (1,8) |
| Maximum torque N * m / min-1 | 30,3 |
| Transmission type | V50 - Two-stage with manual gear shifting. V501 - Two-stage with foot shift |
| Clutch | Multi-disc, oil bath. |
| Motor transmission | Ratio motor transmission 4,75 |
| Gear ratio | I gear 2.08 II gear 1.17 |
| Gear ratio from gearbox to rear wheel | 2,2 |
| Ignition system | Contactless, electronic with BCS |
| Power source | Alternator 26.3701, 6 V, 45 W. |
| High voltage transformer | 2102.3705 or B300B |
| Carburetor | K60V |
| Air purifier | With paper filter element EFV-3-1A |
| Gas exhaust system | Exhaust silencer with baffles for gas throttling. |
Riga 24 Delta
Riga 24- She "Delta" very common almost as well as mokik "Carpathians" but now it’s not about them, now it’s about "Delta" mokik, mass-produced by the Sarkana Zvaigzne plant. 
The last Deltas were produced in St. Petersburg, and the D-16 engines were installed on them.
The Riga Deltas (early and late) have few differences: the engine is B50 or B501, the headlight is round or rectangular, front fender- as in Riga-22, or your own, Delta; trunk - painted or chrome.
Dry weight
57 kg
Payload
100 Kg
Maximum speed
50 km / h
Fuel supply
8.0 l
Average exploitation fuel consumption
2.1 l / 100km
Length
1850 mm
Width
750 mm
Height
1,060 mm
Base
1250 mm
Tires
2.50-16 or (2.50-85 / 16)
Working volume
49.8 cm ^ 3
Power
1.8 hp / 1.32 kW @ 5200 rpm
Compression ratio
8,0
Fuel
mixture of A-76 or A-72 with oil (33: 1)
Ignition
Contactless, electronic with BCS
Riga-26 mini
Riga 26 Mini
In 1982, a mini-mokik "Riga-26" (aka "Mini" RMZ-2.126) was developed. This model combined the advantages of a moped and a scooter, was simple and convenient for storage, and, moreover, did not lose the similarities with a traditional motorcycle. "Riga-26" took up little space: it could easily fit on the roof or in the trunk passenger car, in an elevator, on a balcony or in a utility room of a residential building. However, with a weight of 50 kg, it was very problematic to drag such a mini-mok up the stairs to the balcony or loggia. The wheels of this model were of small diameter (like a scooter) and often deformed when hitting holes in the asphalt. The handlebars can be pivoted downward when the clamping collets are released, almost halving the height of the machine. For the same purpose, a device for lowering the saddle was provided.
However, certain claims were made to the controllability and maneuverability of the mini-mock "Riga-26". For example, the tires were so stiff that an accidental puncture was simply invisible, and the owner noticed damage only when inflating the tires, and the V-50 engine with an electronic ignition system did not lend itself much to adjusting the ignition system. A little later, Czechoslovak-made engines with a horizontal position of the cylinder, much more reliable and working almost silently, and also having a foot switch, began to be installed on the modifications of this mokik.
== Specifications: ==
Weight, kg
50
Maximum load, kg
100
Base, mm
1000
Length, mm
1510
Height, mm
With the steering wheel in working position - 1000, folded - 520
Width, mm
Working - 740, folded - 350
Ground clearance, mm
120
Maximum speed, km / h
40
Fuel
Fuel tank capacity, l
5.5
2.1
Frame
Tubular, welded
Front wheel suspension
Rear suspension
Pendulum fork, with spring shock absorbers (on the first releases - rigid)
Brakes
Braking distances
with both brakes V = 30 km / h, 7.5m
Tire size
3,0-10"
engine's type
V50 or V501 carburetor, two-stroke, with counterflow cooling
49,8
Cylinder diameter, mm
38
Piston stroke, mm
44
Compression ratio
7.5-8.5
1,32 (1,8)
Transmission type
V50 - Two-stage with manual gear shifting; V501 - Two-stage with foot shift
Clutch
Engine starting mechanism
Kick starter
Motor transmission
Gear ratio of the motor transmission 4.75
Gear ratio chain transmission
I transfer - 2.08
II gear - 1.17
Ignition system
Electronic, contactless
Carburetor
K-60V
Air purifier
With paper filter element EFV-3-1A
Gas exhaust system
Power source
Generator 26.3701, 6V, 45 W
A few photos from the Internet:
Riga-22
Mokik "Riga-22" mokik meets even less often than Riga -16 also these mokiki are unusually similar
It looks like "Riga-22"
It looks like "Riga-16"
But we have already talked about "Riga-16" and as you guessed now, we will talk about "Riga-22" and so "Riga 22" is a mokik serially produced by the "Sarkana Zvaigzne" plant from 1982 to 1986.
In 1981, the Riga-22 mokik rolled off the assembly line, which became an improved version of the Riga-16 mokik. This model, which accelerated to 50 km / h, was equipped with the Sh-62 engine. This engine was fundamentally different from previous models, first of all, by its powerful electronic ignition and gearbox, which made it necessary to change the direction of rotation of the crankshaft. The use of electronic contactless ignition increased the reliability of engine starting and the reliability of the ignition system as a whole. However, the first models were notable for the unreliability of the switches and the gear assembly. Therefore, after a while, the engine and commutator were modernized, and since 1984 they began to produce mokiki with engines "Sh-62M" with a capacity of 1.8 liters. with. In addition, the design of the muffler has changed. Despite the upgrades, the gearbox was still a hassle for buyers. Later, these mokiki were equipped with V-50 engines. The Riga-20Yu moped, which was equipped with a sportier frame, a larger front wheel and foot-operated gearshift, became a motocross model, unified with the mokik "Riga-22". It was a small-scale moped intended for training and competition of young athletes.
== Differences from earlier models ==
In connection with the restyling, a number of structural differences from Riga 16 were introduced. Sh-58 engine, 2.2 hp. (1.6 kW), was replaced by engines Sh-62, 2.2 hp (1.6 kW), and V-50 1.8 hp. (1.3 kW). Also, Riga 22 early issues (1982-1983) differed from Riga 16 in the location and shape of the gas tank, the presence of a brake light, and the shape of the trunk. From 1984 to 1986, the type of muffler and rear shock absorbers changed.
== Specifications: ==
Weight, kg
70
Maximum load, kg
100
Base, mm
1250
Length, mm
1850
Height, mm
1060
Width, mm
750
Ground clearance, mm
140
Maximum speed, km / h
50
Fuel
mixture of A-76 or A-72 with oil (25: 1)
Fuel tank capacity, l
5.5
Control fuel consumption, l / 100 km
2.2
Frame
Tubular, welded, backbone type
Front wheel suspension
Telescopic fork, spring-loaded
Rear suspension
Pendulum fork with spring dampers
Brakes
Drum type with separate mechanical drive for each wheel
Braking distances
with both brakes V = 30 km / h, 7m
Tire size
2,50-16"
engine's type
Ш-62 or V50 single-cylinder, two-stroke, with cooling by the opposite air flow
Working volume of the cylinder, cubic cm
49,8
Cylinder diameter, mm
38
Piston stroke, mm
44
Compression ratio
7.7-8.5
Engine power, kW (h.p.)
1,32 (1,8)
Transmission type
Two-stage with manual gear shifting
Clutch
Multi-disc, oil bath
Engine starting mechanism
Kick starter
Ignition system
Electronic, contactless
Carburetor
Outdoor furniture-60
Air purifier
Dry, mesh
Gas exhaust system
Exhaust silencer with baffles for gas throttling
A few photos from the Internet:
Riga-16
Riga 16- Excellent mokik for roads different types Riga 16 is a rather rare mokik relative to others I told you about this mokik in the article "Riga-16"
Riga 16 is a mokik serially produced by the Sarkana Zvaigzne plant from 1979 to 1982.
In 1979 the two-speed model "Riga-16" was put into production. It was already a mokik with a kickstarter, a motorcycle-type muffler, a new steering wheel and a taillight. The first models of "Riga-16" still had the "Sh-57" engine, but later one of the most successful engines of the Siauliai plant - "Sh-58" was installed on the mokik. Another important indicator: with a weight of 70 kg, the mokik could carry up to 115 kg of cargo.
== Specifications: ==
Engine
sh-58 or s-58, on early mopeds - sh-57.
Engine power, kW (h.p.)
1,5 (2,0)
Transmission type
Two-stage with manual gear shifting
Clutch
Double disc, oil bath
Engine starting mechanism
Kick starter (on sh-57 pedals)
Petrol
А-76 with oil (25: 1)
Control fuel consumption, l / 100 km
1,6
Tire size
2,50-16"
Motor transmission
Gear ratio of the motor transmission 3.08
Ignition system
Contact, from AC magneto with a high-voltage transformer
Carburetor
K-35V or K-60
Air purifier
Dry, mesh
a couple of photos from the Internet:
CONTENT:
1.General instructions
2.Safety requirements
4.Technical data
5.Device and adjustment of the main units of the mock
Controls and instruments
Engine.
Chain transmission
Front fork
Rear suspension
Wheels
Tires
Saddle.
Brakes.
Mock's operating rules
Preparation for operation
Peculiarities of preparation for operation of the "Karpaty-2-Lux" mokik.
Running in.
Engine starting
Driving
Mock maintenance
Care of components and assemblies
Cleaning
Grease
Periodicity Maintenance mochica
Mock storage rules
Possible malfunctions and their elimination
Warranty obligations
Warranty repair coupons
Acceptance certificate, information on conservation
Price.
Applications.
1. Procedure pre-sale preparation mokikov
Mock pre-sale coupon
2. List of companies involved in warranty repair of mokiks
1. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
Mokik "Karpaty-2" (Fig. 1), "Karpaty-2-Sport", "Karpaty-2-Lux" (Fig. 2) - single transport vehicle designed for business, pleasure and tourist trips on highways and country roads in all climatic zones of the USSR. Mokik "Karpaty-2", "Karpaty-2-Lux" is designed to carry cargo up to 15 kg on the trunk.
Rice. 1. General form mokika "Karpaty-2".
The design feature of the "Karpaty-2-Sport" mokik is the steering wheel with a jumper, like in sports motorcycles, the shortened front wheel flap is raised, the muffler is the upper one with a protective screen. For ease of transport, a handle is fitted between the saddle and the rear light.
Mokik "Karpaty-2-Lux" is equipped with direction indicators, which increases the convenience and safety of driving on the mokik.
The operating instructions contain the basic information required for correct operation and maintenance of the mokika, the observance of which will serve as a guarantee of the trouble-free operation of your vehicle.
Before using the mokik, especially carefully study the section of the manual "Operating rules".
Rice. 2. General view of the mokik "Karpaty-2-Sport" "Karpaty-2-Lux".
Due to the constant work to improve the product, minor changes may be made to the design that are not reflected in this publication.
2. SAFETY REQUIREMENTS
Before driving, check the operation of the clutch and transmission control mechanisms, brakes, lighting devices.
It is prohibited to change gear from II to I at a speed exceeding 12 km / h.
Do not overheat the engine. Driving with an overheated engine can lead to an accident.
Clean the outside of the engine in good time. Oil and gasoline on the crankcase can ignite the mock.
Do not light matches or smoke while preparing the fuel mixture and refueling the mokik.
Do not allow gasoline to leak or evaporate, do not wash your hands with gasoline.
TECHNICAL DETAILS
1) Main parameters and dimensions:
Mock base, no more - 1200 mm
Ground clearance at full load and nominal tire pressure, not less - 100mm
dimensions, no more:
length - 1820mm
width -720mm
height - 1100mm
Weight (dry), no more, mokiks:
"Karpaty-2", - 55kg
"Karpaty-2-Sport" - 55kg
"Karpaty-2-Lux" - 56kg
Maximum load (including the driver), no more - 980 N (100 kg)
Load on the trunk, no more - 147N (15 kg)
Maximum design speed, no more - 39.9 km / h
Braking distance with full load when driving at a speed of 30 km / h and using both brakes, no more than - 7.5 m
Control fuel consumption, l / 100 km, no more - 2.1 l
Note. The reference fuel consumption is used to determine technical condition mokica and is not an operational standard.
2) Engine:
Engine type - B501 or B50, gasoline, two-stroke, with cooling by the counterflow of air.
Number of cylinders - 1
Cylinder diameter, mm - 38
Piston stroke, mm - 44
Compression ratio - 7.7-8.5
The working volume of the cylinder, cm3 - 49.8
Maximum effective power of a run-in engine at a crankshaft speed of 4400-5200 min-1, kW (hp) - 1.32 (1.8)
Maximum torque of a run-in engine at a crankshaft speed of 3700-4200 min-1, N.m (kgf.m) - 3.03 (0.31)
Engine ignition system - contactless, electronic with a switch-stabilizer unit
3) Power system:
Gas tank - stamped, welded
Carburetor - K60V
Fuel - a mixture of A-76 or A-72 gasoline in accordance with GOST 2084-77 with D8-ASZp-108 (M-6z / 10V) oil in a ratio of 33: 1 for a fully run-in engine and 20: 1 during the running-in period. It is allowed to use gasoline with octane number up to 86 and special oil AA12TP TU 38.101956-83 in a ratio of 50: 1 for a run-in engine and 33: 1 during a run-in period
Air cleaner - dry, with paper filtering element EFV-3-1-AU1 TU 112-013-84
Engine lubrication system - together with fuel
Lubricant for the gearbox - oil M-8-V GOST 10541-78 - in winter, DV-ASZp-10V (M-63 / 10V) OST 38.01370-84 - all-weather
Gas exhaust system - exhaust silencer with baffles for throttling gases and an exhaust pipe
4) Power transmission
Clutch - multi-plate, working in oil
Gearbox - two-stage
Moika gear shifting with B501 engine - foot
Mocka gear shifting with B50 engine - manual
Gear ratios: - 4.75: 1
primary gear - 2.08: 1
first gear - 1.17: 1
second gear
The total gear ratio of the trigger - 9.5
The gear ratio from the gearbox to the rear wheel is 2.2
Transmission from the gearbox to the rear wheel - chain, chain PR-12,7-1820-1 GOST 13568-75
5. STRUCTURE AND ADJUSTMENT OF THE MAIN UNITS OF MOKIKA
5.1. Controls and devices (fig. 3).
Rice. 3. Controls and devices:
1 - rotating gear shift knob (only for mokik with B50 engine); 2 - light switch with sound signal button; 3 - rear-view mirror; 4 - steering wheel; 5 - speedometer; 6 - headlight; 7 - direction indicator switch (only for "Karpaty-2-Lux" mokik); 8 - switch (engine switch); 9 - front wheel brake lever; 10 - rotating handle for carburetor throttle control; 11 - cable clamp; 12 - clutch release lever.
The tubular steering wheel is attached to the front fork with a cover and bolts.
The clutch release lever is designed to disconnect and smoothly connect the engine to the power train.
The front wheel brake lever is attached to the carburetor throttle control handle housing. To brake, press the lever against the handlebar.
The rotating carburetor throttle control knob is designed to adjust the amount combustible mixture entering the engine. When turning the handle counterclockwise (when looking at the end of the handle) throttle opens and the engine speed increases. When the handle is released, it returns to the position corresponding to the mode idle move.
The rotating gearshift knob with the B50 engine is interlocked with the clutch release lever. It is possible to change gears only with the clutch disengaged. When the clutch is engaged, a detent in the groove of the lever prevents gear shifting. To disengage the clutch, push the lever against the handlebar grip.
To engage 1st gear, press the clutch release lever to the steering handle, turn the handle clockwise (when looking at the end of the handle) All the way down and gently lower the lever.
To engage the 2nd gear, turn the handle counterclockwise. The neutral position is between first and second gears.
Mock gear shifting with the B501 engine.
To engage 1st gear, press the clutch release lever to the steering handle, push down the gear lever, which is located on the left side of the engine, with your foot down to the stop, then smoothly release the clutch lever.
To engage the 2nd gear, lift the gear lever up, after squeezing the clutch.
The P25A headlamp light switch with a sound signal button is designed to turn on the dipped or high beam, rear light and horn. Turn the lever to the right or left to turn on the low or high beam and the rear lamp.
The P201 switch is designed to turn off the engine. To stop the engine, move the lever to the extreme left position. Make sure the switch lever is in the middle position before starting.
The speedometer is used to control the speed of movement and count the distance traveled.
The controls include the brake pedal rear wheel, which is installed on the mock frame on the right side.
Engine
The mokika is equipped with a single-cylinder two-stroke B50 or B501 engine. The design of the B501 engine is fully consistent with the design of the B50 engine. Distinctive feature B501 engine is a foot shift.
Rice. 4. Engine (left side view):
1 - interference suppression tip; 2 - rubber-metal sleeve; 3 - carburetor; 4 - filler plug; 5 - hole for oil level control; b - gear shift lever (only for the B501 engine); 7 - cork drain hole; 8 - sealant.
The engine consists of the following main parts: a crankcase, a cylinder, a cylinder head, a crank mechanism, a clutch, a gearbox, a starting mechanism, a gearshift mechanism (in the V-501 engine), as well as an ignition, power supply and gas release system.
The crankcase is the main power bearing part of the engine and consists of a left and right half, tightened with screws. The right cover 4 (Fig. 5) is attached to the right half of the crankcase with screws, which covers the generator 5, the driving sprocket 8 and the gearshift lever in the B501 engine. It contains the gears of the speedometer reducer.
The left crankcase cover 24 is screwed to the left half, which covers the clutch control mechanism.
Cylinder head 27 (Fig. 5) and cylinder 26 are cast from an aluminum alloy. A plug 28 is screwed into the cylinder head. A sleeve made of special cast iron is pressed into the cylinder. The cylinder to the crankcase, as well as the cylinder head to the cylinder, are attached with four studs and nuts. A gasket made of special cardboard is installed between the crankcase and the cylinder for sealing, and an aluminum gasket is installed between the cylinder head and the cylinder.
Removal and installation of the cylinder.
Tool: combination wrench, special wrench, open-end wrench 14X24, wrench 8X4.5, screwdriver.
To remove the cylinder:
- disconnect the exhaust pipe, gas line, spark plug wire, as well as the bolt securing the cylinder head to the frame;
- unscrew the four nuts securing the cylinder and remove the head and gasket;
- disconnect the carburetor;
- move the piston to bottom dead center (BDC), remove the cylinder and cylinder gasket;
- cover the hole in the crankcase with a clean cloth. Installing the cylinder:
- remove the rags from the hole in the crankcase;
- put the cylinder gasket and cylinder;
- put the gasket, the cylinder head and evenly, crosswise, tighten the four fastening nuts in 2-3 steps;
- tighten the bolt securing the cylinder head to the frame;
- attach the carburetor;
- connect the exhaust pipe, gas line, spark plug wire;
- after warming up and completely cooling down the engine, tighten the cylinder head fastening nuts.
crank mechanism consists of a piston 1 (Fig. 5) with two rings 2, a piston pin 3, and a composite crankshaft 6.
On spherical surface the piston is punched out by an arrow facing the cylinder liner outlet port. Pins are pressed into the annular grooves of the piston to fix the position of the piston rings. The piston has two bore bores for the piston pin. The annular grooves in the bore holes are designed for circlips that keep the piston pin from axial movement.
Replacing the piston end:
- remove the cylinder head and cylinder;
- remove the rings from the piston using three thin steel strips that are laid under the ring (one - in the middle, two - under the ends of the ring);
- insert the removed ring into the upper part of the cylinder to a depth of 10 mm and measure the gap in the lock. If the gap is greater than 0.8 mm, the rings should be replaced. The new ring should have a clearance of 0.15-0.30 mm.
Rice. 5. Engine (cut): 1 - piston; 2 - piston ring; 3 - finger; 4 - right crankcase cover; 5 - generator; 6 - crankshaft; 7 - speedometer drive; 8 - leading sprocket; 9 - secondary shaft. 10 - gear wheel of II transfer; 11 - switching clutch; 12 - ratchet clutch; 13 - kickstarter gear; 14 - kick starter spring; 15 - kickstarter shaft; 46 - kickstarter connecting rod; 17 - gear wheel of 1st transfer; 18 - block of gears, 19 - driven gear wheel; 20 - spring ring; 21 - shift lever (only for the B501 engine); 22 - clutch release mechanism; 23 - clutch; 24 - left crankcase cover; 25 - crankcase; 26 - cylinder; 27 - cylinder head; 28 - spark plug.
Crankshaft
consists of right and left pins and a crank pin and a connecting rod pressed into them. The trunnion cheeks are the counterweights to the crankshaft. The shaft is one-piece. A bushing is pressed into the upper head of the connecting rod under the piston pin 3 (Fig. 5). There is a groove in the upper end of the connecting rod for greasing the pin. The bearing of the lower head of the connecting rod is roller, needle K16X22X12. The crankshaft runs on two # 203 ball bearings.
The crank mechanism is lubricated with oil in the fuel mixture.
Clutch works in an oil bath.
To increase the durability of the clutch, observe the following rules:
- while the engine is running, do not press the clutch release lever for a long time;
- when starting off, release the clutch release lever smoothly;
- do not drive with the clutch release lever partially depressed.
Clutch adjustment.
Tool: special wrench, open-end wrench 14X24, screwdriver.
Loosen the lock nut 2 (Fig. 7) and, while holding the adjusting nut 3 by hand, screw (unscrew) the stop 1, then fix its position with the lock nut with a shackle.
When turning the stop free run lever decreases, when screwed in - increases.
If, when adjusting, the length of the threaded part of the stop was not enough, shorten the free end of the cable. To do this, disconnect the cable from the lever of the clutch release mechanism, loosen the screw securing the cable lock, move it towards the shell, tighten the screw and install the cable in place. Adjust the free play as described above.
Engage 1st gear to check the clutch adjustment. When the clutch is disengaged, the wheel should turn freely, when it is engaged, it should not turn.
B501 engine gearbox- two-stage. It is operated by pressing the foot on the gear lever 21 (Fig. 5).
Rice. 6. Gear shifting mechanism of the V501 engine:
1 - cuff; 2 - switching shaft; 3 - lock washer; 4 - switching drum; 5 - retainer; 6 - switching fork; 7 - leash; 8 - returnable spring; 9 - pin; 10 - adjusting washer.
The gearbox and gear shifting mechanism (Fig. 6) are factory-adjusted and do not require additional adjustments during operation.
B50 engine gearbox- two-stage. Controlled by the rotating gear knob 1 (fig. 3) located on the left side of the steering wheel,
Lever interlocked with the clutch so that gear changes can only be carried out when the clutch is disengaged.
Adjustment of the gearshift mechanism and mokika with the B50 engine.
If the gear shifting mechanism malfunctions, adjust by increasing or decreasing the free end of the gear shift control cable in the same way as adjusting the free play of the clutch release lever with the same tool (Fig. 7). For this:
- release the lock nut and put the gear shift knob in the position corresponding to the engagement of the 2nd gear. If II gear does not engage, then the free end of the cable is small. The stop must be screwed into the adjusting nut;
- put the handle in the position corresponding to the inclusion of the 1st gear. If the 1st gear does not engage, then the free end of the cable is large and the stop should be unscrewed. If you cannot adjust the gearshift mechanism, shorten the cable in the same way as when adjusting the clutch. Access to the gear lever is opened by removing the right crankcase cover.
If the gearshift mechanism is adjusted correctly, then with the gearshift clutch in neutral position while the engine is running, there should be no clutch rubbing on the gears.
Rice. 7. Adjusting the free play of the clutch release lever for the mokika with the B50 engine:
1 - emphasis; 2 - lock nut; 3 - adjusting nut.
Kickstarter(trigger).
When starting the engine, the gearshift clutch must be in neutral. When the foot is pressed on the kickstarter lever pedal, rotation is transferred to the shaft 15 (Fig. 5), and the ratchet clutch 12 moves to the left, and its end teeth engage with the end teeth of the kickstarter gear 13. The starting gear drives through the gearbox and the clutch. crank mechanism. When the engine starts running, the ratchet clutch disengages from the starting gear.
Attention! When starting the B501 engine, the gear lever must be in neutral.
Removal and installation of the kickstarter connecting rod.
Tool: combination wrench, hammer and stop.
To remove the kickstarter connecting rod 16 (Fig. 5), unscrew and pull out the tightening screw.
With light blows, remove the connecting rod from the spline end of the kickstarter shaft.
Installing the kickstarter connecting rod:
- remove the rubber plug from the crankcase on the right side of the kickstarter shaft;
- put a stop instead of it to prevent axial movement of the kickstarter shaft at the moment of putting the connecting rod onto the shaft;
- lightly hitting the end of the connecting rod with a hammer (wooden or with an aluminum mandrel) install the kickstarter rod vertically on the shaft splines. When hitting the connecting rod, the kickstarter shaft must not move in order to avoid deformation and breakage of the kickstarter shaft circlips;
- tighten the tie bolt, put the rubber plug on the opposite side of the kickstarter shaft.
Mochica electrical equipment consists of sources and consumers electrical energy(fig. 8).
Rice. eight. Schematic diagram electrical equipment:
1 - generator; 2 - switch-stabilizer block; 3 - rear lamp; 4 - brake light switch; 5 - high-voltage transformer; 6 - candle; 7 - noise suppression tip; 8 - light switch; 9 - sound signal; 10 - headlight; 11 - engine switch.
Power source - alternator rated voltage 6 V and 45 W.
Electricity consumers: ignition devices, back light, headlight, horn.
The generator is used to power all power consumers on the mokik. The main parts of the generator are the stator and the rotor.
The rotor is mounted on the tapered end of the right-hand crankshaft journal. Fixed with a key and secured with a bolt. The stator is mounted on the engine crankcase.
The generator works in conjunction with a switch-stabilizer unit and a high-voltage transformer mounted on a frame.
An electrical pulse comes from the additional winding of the generator to the input of the switch-stabilizer unit, and from the output of the unit to the high-voltage transformer.
Attention!
To avoid failure of the switch-stabilizer unit, it is forbidden to disconnect the pads and check the electrical circuits by shorting to ground (check for a spark) both on a running and non-running engine.
The switch-stabilizer unit and the high-voltage transformer do not require maintenance during operation and cannot be repaired.
The spark plug А17В is designed to ignite the working mixture in the engine cylinder. The mixture is ignited from an electric discharge that occurs on the electrodes of the candle at the time of the formation of an EMF pulse in the generator sensor.
The gap between the electrodes should be 0.5-0.6 mm.
If necessary, it can be adjusted by bending the side electrode to the center one. The plug is screwed into the cylinder head.
Rice. 9. The procedure for installing the ignition:
1 - stator fastening screw; 2 - stator; 3 - risk on the crankcase; 4 - rotor mounting bolt; 5 - rotor; 6 - right crankcase cover.
Installation and adjustment of ignition.
Tool: screwdriver, combination wrench
To obtain the maximum power and economy of the engine, it is necessary to ignite the working mixture a little before the piston approaches top dead center (TDC): a spark discharge on the spark plug electrodes should occur with a certain advance.
The optimal ignition timing is 1.2-1.4 mm before TDC,
Early or late ignition leads to a loss of power and economy, overheating of the engine.
Installation of ignition on the engine is reduced to the installation of stator 2 (Fig. 9) relative to rotor 5.
Remove the right cover, crankcase and check the alignment of marks 3 on the crankcase with the lower edge of the recess on the stator.
If the risk does not coincide with the edge of the groove, install the ignition: loosen the screws securing the generator stator: install the lower edge of the groove on the stator against the notch 3 on the crankcase, then tighten the screws.
During the operation of the mock, adjustment of the ignition timing is not required, periodically check only the tightness of the generator stator screws.
Rice. 10. Headlight adjustment.
Tool: special wrench.
The headlamp is installed between the brackets 13 (Fig. 15) of the front fork and fixed with bolts.
For correct illumination of the road, the headlight of the mocica should be adjusted so that the axis of the driving beam is tilted downward from the horizontal by 150 mm at a distance of 8 m (Fig. 10).
Engine power system: fuel tank, receiver, air cleaner and carburetor K60V:
Carburetor K60V(Fig. 11) consists of a body 1, a choke 6, a carburetor cover 2, a float 14 and a float chamber 12.
The design of the carburetor provides for the adjustment of idle speed and mixture quality (operational fuel consumption).
Before starting the engine by turning the screw 7 (Fig. 11), set the throttle so that there is a small gap (2-2.5 mm) between its base and the lower generatrix of the mixing chamber. Screw in the adjusting screw 18 completely, and then turn it out 0.5-1 turn. Start the engine and warm it up. After warming up the engine, slowly unscrew screw 18. The engine speed will initially increase and then decrease. The start of the RPM reduction indicates the optimum screw position for a given throttle position. By unscrewing the screw 7, again reduce the engine speed and screwing in the screw 18 again find its optimal position. Perform the indicated operations until the minimum, but quite stable engine speed is obtained. Check the stability of idle speed by sharply opening and closing the throttle. If the engine runs stably at low speeds, but stops at the moment of a sharp opening of the throttle, the mixture is slightly enriched by screwing in screw 18. If the engine stops at the moment of a sharp closing of the throttle, the mixture is leaner
In a new engine, friction losses are higher than in a running-in one, and at low revs it can operate unstably. If necessary, increase the idle speed of the new engine.
Rice. 11. Diagram of the carburetor K60V:
1 - case; 2 - cover; 3 - linkage lever; 4 - cable guide; b - spring; 6 - throttle; 7 - throttle lifting screw; 8 - idle hole; 9 - unbalancing channel; 10 - drainage channel; 11 - main system sprayer; 12 - float chamber; 13 - fuel jet; 14 - float; 15 - valve needle; 16 - fuel filter; 17 - fuel supply union; 18 - idle speed adjusting screw; 19 - air damper; 20 - air channel; 21 - float sinker.
Air purifier(Fig. 12) consists of a paper filter element 4, which is installed on the receiver 1 and is attached to it with a pin 2, a stop 7, a washer 5 and a nut 6. The paper filter element is installed in the housing 3.
Fig. 12 Air cleaner installation:
1– receiver; 2 - hairpin; 3 - case. 4 - filter element; 5 - washer; 6 - nut; 7 - emphasis,
The gas exhaust system is a muffler, which, using exhaust pipe connected to the engine cylinder. The exhaust gases, passing through the muffler, sharply reduce their speed and cool down, the exhaust noise is reduced.
5.3. Chain transmission.
Before installing the chain, remove any dirt from the drive sprocket area.
Rice. 13. Determination of chain slack:
A - sagging 10-25 mm.
Adjust the chain tension so that when pressing with a force of 5-10 kg in the middle between the driving and driven sprockets, the chain slack is at least 10 mm and no more than 25 mm.
Do not over-tension the chain as this will overload the bearings. A loosely tensioned chain worsens the operating conditions of the chain drive and leads to its rapid wear; while driving, it can jump off the sprocket and damage the engine crankcase.
Chain tension adjustment(fig. 14)
Tool: open-end wrench 14X24, combined wrench.
- Loosen the nut 3 of the rear wheel;
- release the locknuts 1 on both sides;
- tension the chain by turning the adjusting nuts 2.
Fig 14. Adjusting the chain tension:
1 - lock nut; 2 - adjusting nut; 3 - nut.
After adjusting the chain, the rear wheel should be in the same plane with the front. The misalignment is eliminated by uniform rotation of the adjusting nuts on both sides.
5.4. Front fork.
The position of the wheel axle in the fork is fixed with bolts 1 (Fig. 15).
Disassembling the plug.
Tool: special wrench, open-end wrench 14X X24, screwdriver.
- Remove the front wheel:
- remove the bolts 20 securing the steering wheel;
- remove the steering wheel together with the cover 19, the steering wheel stems 18 and the bracket 23;
- remove the cap 21;
- unscrew nut 22;
- remove the upper traverse 16;
- remove the holder 17 together with guide 11, springs 9, 10 and rods 6;
- pressing on the holder 17, knock out the pin 15, remove the holder 17 and the rod 6 with the spring 10 and the guide 11;
- unscrew the upper cone 25;
- take out bearing 26;
- remove the headlight and signal;
- remove the skeleton 12 from the head tube of the frame;
Rice. 15. Front fork:
1 - bolt М8Х1Х25; 2 - nut М8Х1: 3 - washer; 4 - axle of the front wheel; 5 - rod tip; 6 - stock; 7 - spacer sleeve; 8 - nylon bushing; 9 - rebound spring; 10- spring; 11 - guide; 12 - skeleton; 13 - headlight bracket; 14 - reflector; 15 - pin; 16-upper traverse; 17 - holder; 18- rudder stem; 19 - cover; 20 - bolt M8X1X25; 21 - cap; 22 - nut; 23 - bracket; 24 - front fork rod; 25 - upper cone; 26 - bearing; 27 - assembled frame; 28 - bellows;
Remove the second bearing from the steering column rod.
Assemble the front fork in reverse order. Adjust the steering column bearings when assembled: remove the cap 21, loosen the nut 22, and rotate the upper cone 25 until the play disappears in the bearings and the front fork turns without jamming.
5.5. Rear suspension.
The mock's rear suspension consists of a swinging (pendulum) rear fork and two spring-loaded shock absorbers.
Two bushings 40 are pressed into the holes of pipe 1 (Fig. 16) of the pendulum.
A rubber insert 2 is installed in the tip of the rear fork 5, inside which thrust bushings 37 are installed. Washers 39 are inserted between the end of the swingarm tube and the tip of the rear fork. The rear fork is connected to the mokik frame by means of a pin 38, fixed by a nut 3 with a spring washer 4.
Rice. 16. Rear wheel:
1 - pendulum tube; 2 - insert; 3 - nut М10Х1; 4 - spring washer 10L; 5 - rear fork; 6 - tire; 7 - camera; 8 - rim tape; 9 - rim 40EX406; 10 - nipple M3; 11 - spoke A-M3; 12 - bushing; 13 - asterisk Z = 33; 14 - adapter; 15 - bolt М8Х1Х22. 16 - spring washer 8L; 17 - nut М8Х1; 18 - nut М10Х1; 19 - the sleeve is remote; 20 - cover; 21 - buffer; 22 - flange; 23 - washer; 24 - spacer sleeve; 25 - retaining ring; 26 - brake lever; 27 - cam axis; 28 - nut М8Х1; 29 - tension, 30 - wheel axle; 31 - stuffing box; 32 - ball bearing No. 201; 33 - brake disc: 34 - rear shock absorber axis; 35 - pads axis: 36 - brake pads; 37 - stop bushing; 38 - hairpin; 39 - washer; 40 - bushing.
Shock absorber(Fig. 17) consists of a body 6, a head with a rod 2 and a spring 3. A rubber buffer 4 is put on the rod, and a nylon bushing 5 is pressed into the body, which guides the movement of the rod. Rubber liners 7 are installed in the holes of the body and head, and metal bushings 1 are installed in the upper liners.
Rice. 17. Rear shock absorber:
1 - bushing; 2 - head with a stem; 3 - spring; 4 - buffer; 5 - bushing; 6 - case; 7 - insert.
5.6. Wheels.
Removing the rear wheel (fig. 16).
- unscrew the nut 18 and remove the spring washer;
- knock out the rear wheel axle 30 with a light blow;
- remove the wheel.
Removing the front wheel (fig. 18).
Tool: combination wrench, hammer.
- Place the mokik on the stand;
- unscrew the nut 15 and remove the washer 16;
- loosen the bolts 1 (Fig. 15);
- Knock out wheel axle 14 with light blows (Fig. 18).
The wheels are installed in the reverse order.
In the event of axial or radial runout rim, remove it by adjusting the spoke tension. Adjust the spoke tension by turning the spoke nipples using the special wrench included in the tool kit.
If it is necessary to replace the bearings in the wheel hub, first press the bearing on the brake side up to the stop. On the other side, insert the spacer sleeve and press in the second bearing.
Rice. 18. Front wheel:
1 - tire; 2 - camera; 3 - rim tape; 4 - rim 40EX-406; 5 - nipple M3: b - spoke A-M3; 7 - bushing; 8 - cover; 9 - washer; 10 - retaining ring; 11 - brake lever; 12 - cam axis; 13 - brake disc; 14 - wheel axle; 15 - nut M10X1; 16 - spring washer 10L; 17 - stuffing box; 18 - ball bearing No. 201; 19 - spacer sleeve; 20 - brake shoe; 21 - the axis of the pads; 22 - front fork.
5.7. Tires.
Mock tires consist of a tire, a tube and a rim tape. If the Tube is punctured, dismantle the tire and take out the tube. Step on the tire and press the bead into the groove in the rim. Insert tire paddles on both sides of the valve at a distance of about 10 cm from each other and pull the tire bead over the rim bead (fig. 19). Then use one scoop. Then remove the tube from the tire. After pumping the chamber, determine the puncture site by the noise of the outgoing air. If this fails, submerge the camera in water. Air bubbles will indicate damage. Sand the damaged area and the rubber patch with sandpaper and rinse with clean gasoline. When the gasoline has evaporated, glue the patch with rubber glue according to the instructions in the first aid kit.
Remember that this repair of the camera is temporary. For a reliable repair, the damaged area must be vulcanized.
Mounting tires:
- check if the object that damaged the camera has been removed from the tire;
- if the rim tape has been removed, put it on the rim, aligning the hole in it with the hole on the rim (the rim tape must completely cover all the nipple heads);
- with the tire completely removed, place a part of the bead into the recess of the rim, slide the entire bead onto the rim using the tire paddles and slide the bead of the tire towards the bead of the rim;
- sprinkle the inner surface of the tire with talcum powder, insert the valve into the hole of the rim and put the slightly pumped-up tube into the tire so that there are no folds;
- put on the second bead of the tire on the side opposite to the valve, I will hold the tire;
- tuck the bead of the tire onto the rim, gradually intercepting it further and further along the circumference;
- having tucked in about two-thirds of the bead length, step on the tire so that the tucked-in part of the bead goes into the recess of the rim, and use the tire blades to fill the bead to the end;
- after mounting the tire on the rim, pump up the tube and, tapping around the entire perimeter, check that the tire sits evenly around the entire circumference of the rim; then, to prevent wrinkling in the chamber, completely release the air from it and re-inflate.
Inspect the tires periodically and remove any foreign objects stuck in the tread or sidewall of the tire.
Avoid prolonged (more than 30 days) parking on low-pressure tires.
Avoid hard braking.
The rims of the 40ЕХ406 wheels are fitted with 2.50 / 85-16 "or 2.75-16" tires. The tires are operated with a load of up to 100 kg.
The guaranteed mileage of tires, subject to the operating rules, is 16,000 km, and with the state quality mark - 20,000 km.
Rice. 19. Dismantling the tire.
5.8. Saddle.
The elongated removable pad-type saddle is secured with a lock. To open it, insert the wrench into the hole on the front of the tool box, which is located under the seat, and pull the lock.
The tool box (fig. 20) has grooves for fixing the tool.
Brakes.
On the front and rear wheels Mokika installed shoe type brakes.
Brake pads must be clean, free from dirt and oil, and brake mechanism correctly adjusted.
Rice. 20. Tool layout scheme:
1 - special key; 2 - combined key; 3 - screwdriver; 4 - tire blade; 5 - open-end wrench; 6 - key 8X4.5.
The wear of the brake pads should not go beyond the structural edge of the belt located along the outer contour of the pads.
If necessary, to compensate for the operational wear of the brake pads, insert between the stop and the end brake pad washers 8 (included in the set of spare parts and accessories).
Adjustment front brake.
Tool: special wrench, open-end wrench 14X24;
- Place the mokik on the stand;
- by rotating the wheels alternately and simultaneously pressing the front wheel brake lever or the rear wheel brake drive lever, determine their free travel, that is, the travel before the start of braking; the beginning of braking is determined by a sharp deceleration of the wheel rotation.
If the free play of the front wheel brake lever or the rear wheel drive lever is not within the required limits (see the section "Technical data"), adjust it (Fig. 21, 22), turn the nut to move the stop to one side or the other and tighten the lock nut.
Rear wheel brake adjustment is shown in fig. 22.
Rice. 21. Adjusting the front wheel brake:
1 - nut; 2 - emphasis.
Rice. 22. Rear wheel brake adjustment:
1 - emphasis; 2 - nut.
Friends ask - I write. And even though he asked vl_polynov to talk about Soviet mopeds in general, the topic is too wide, I’ll tell you about one of the copies of this technique, the closest one for me, because for seven years Karpaty served our family with faith and truth and I dashed off on this mokika more than one hundred kilometers.
Strictly speaking "Karpaty" is not a moped. A moped is an abbreviation for motor and pedal. And "Karpaty" is a mokik, i.e. motor and kickstarter. The main difference is the lack of pedals. In the courtyard of my childhood, owning a mokik was more prestigious than a moped, a moped seems to be like a bicycle, but with a motor, and a mokik is almost a motorcycle.
The series "Karpaty" went into production in 1981. This mokik was produced at the Lviv Motorcycle Plant. The plant did not have its own production of engines, the engines came from the Vairas plant. At first, the "Karpaty" were equipped with engines Ш58 or Ш62. Since 1986, they switched to V-50M engines. The working volume of these engines is 50 cc, the power is 2 hp. The design of the mock is quite simple. Forged frame, two-stroke engine, two-speed gearbox, primitive shock absorbers.
V best years LMZ produced 300 thousand mokiks each, but in the mid-eighties demand began to fall, production dropped to one hundred thousand pieces per year. This plant does not exist now. On its square there is a furniture showroom, a car dealership and a household appliances store.
Karpaty were produced in several modifications:
Karpaty 1 was produced from 1981 to 1986. Equipped with Sh58 or Sh62 engines.
Karpaty 2 was produced from 1986 to 1993. This mokik was powered by a V-50M engine. The design of the gas tank has slightly changed.
"Karpaty 2 Lux" modification with improved consumer properties, such as direction indicators and a reinforced trunk.
Karpaty 2 Sport is a radically sporty design, a kind of mini-scrambler in Soviet style. Steering wheel with a jumper, muffler raised up. I saw such devices a couple of times.
According to the historians of the Lviv plant, there were "Karpaty" 3 and 4. The third model is a mokik with a modified design and a seamless gas tank. The fourth model is a mokik with a Polish Dezamet engine.
Cost "Karpaty" in the late eighties 250 or 260 rubles, depending on the modification. Many or few? If we remember that vodka then cost 25 rubles per bottle, then it turns out "Karpaty" cost like ten bottles of vodka. For the boys of our working district, the amount was quite decent, so few people drove the new "Karpaty". In general, buying a new mokik was considered a terrible snobbery and a sign of a mama's son with hands growing out of his ass. Usually used "Karpaty" were taken for 140-180 rubles. It was considered to be the highest chic to take a completely crumpled copy, often in bulk in a bag, for 25-50 rubles and restore it yourself, although repairs rarely took place alone, and was a collective work. The repaired apparatus had to be supplied with original details type: high handlebar with a jumper, new, chiseled footrests, handles. Parts were usually ordered from older brothers who worked at the factory. But often neighbors in the garage or house could help. Moreover, they often did not take a penny for work, the times were very simple.
The “Karpaty” mokik appeared in our family in 1989. We already had a Ural motorcycle. But in order to drive the bate out of a hangover to the garden and not lose his license, they bought "Karpaty". I usually got this device for a reason, I had to work in the garden. Taking into account my craving for motor vehicles, I dug, napolol and mowed a lot to ride the "Karpaty". And funny stories happened.
Once I was driving to the garden and half of the way I got in the eye either a wasp, or maybe a bee. The pain is hellish, and, which is characteristic, one eye suffered, and both close, I do not see anything, and began to wobble. Somehow he leaned to the side of the road, put the Karpaty on the bandwagon. I stood there, I couldn't see my eyes, there were tears in a stream, there was nothing to rinse with. Well, a man drove by on a "kopeck", he had a thermos with tea, and they washed my eyes with this tea. Since then, not a single two-wheeled vehicle, except for a bicycle, I did not sit down without glasses.
Another time I nearly knocked over my aunt. The engine of the "Karpaty" is not very powerful, two-stroke and did not react to gas immediately, but it picked up cheerfully. I adapted to reduce the gas at some distance from the turn, and before entering the turn I added gas and at the exit I just got the desired result. The exit to our garden had a 90-degree turn, and practically "blind", all overgrown with trees. I fly out of the turn and in front of me is a crowd of people, the train has just passed, I am going around, I signal, the people will unravel, but one fat-ass woman rushes like a deaf and does not give up the road. In order not to knock this fool down, I go to the left, fly into a young birch forest, get off the mokik and I said this to my aunt - it's still a shame. Then he dragged the Karpaty onto the road, pulled the branches out of the wheels and drove on.
We had Karpaty for seven years. I can't remember any monstrous breakdowns, it happened several times, but the human factor was to blame. Selling "Karpaty" was really sad.
The Karpaty moped appeared in the USSR in the spring of 1981. And almost immediately became one of the most popularVehiclethat time. During his life, he managed to undergo several upgrades, which corrected the shortcomings of the first model and improved it as a mobile vehicle.
History of creation moped
The manufacturer of this small vehicle was the Ukrainian motorcycle plant in Lviv.. The moped was the prototype of the series mokikov "Verkhovyna". In 1981 the plant makes the first modification of this vehicleunder the name "Carpathians 1".Three years later in the next series and mokiks of this brand are launched - "Karpaty 2". This series has already been modified and improved from the first release.
An analogue of this moped is "Delta", which was produced at the Riga the motorcycle factory. In 1988, the Lviv plant produced about 120 thousand copies, and already next year this number exceeded 140 thousand. Such a large number of Soviet-made "Karpaty" mopeds were made because they sold well. It was worth such a mokik at that time abouttwo hundred and fifty rubles. The cost depended on the modification of the vehicle.
Often it was brought into the apartment like a bicycle for storage. Since it was expensive to purchase a garage for the sake of one small moped.
The history of the carpathian moped has 4 types of modernization, through which it went. Each model was refined and represented an improved version of the previous one.
- Carpathians 1. The first model mokica. You n accelerated from 1981 to 1986.
- Carpathians 2. The modification that replaced the first mochica was an improved model equipped with a taillight. If Sh-58 engines were installed on the first model, S - 62, then this one - V 50. They had a manual gear selector. And the engines V - 501 , which began to be installed later, had a foot-like gear change.This model is intended for walking trips, transportation of goods weighing 15 kilograms.
- Carpathians 2 Lux. The modification was equipped with a reinforced trunk. Equipped with direction indicators.
- Carpathians 2 Sports. This mod spruce mochica looked athletic... The exhaust pipe is equipped with a protective cover. The steering wheel had an additional jumper, as on all sports mopeds. Trvehicles factory manufacturer paintedin green, orange, cherry colors.
On the second model of the Carpathians, produced from 1986 to 1997, one large and one small headlight was installed. And the wings were painted in the same color as the frame.
Vehicle features
This vehicle acquired about great popularity among the people due to its exceptional characteristics.It was a lightweight and comfortable moped, easily repaired on the road without any devices for this.To ride it, the owner didn't need to receive driver's license. For the last feature, he was very fond of young people under eighteen years .
In addition, Karpaty had a pleasant exterior design. Distinguished reliability NS ... It was possible to overcome a large number of kilometers on it.With only two gears on the box, the moped could provide the owner with a decent movement in those days. The low cost allowed almost everyone in the country to buy it.Despite its small size, low power in 2 horse power, many say that he allowed a couple of people to be carried on him completely without stress.
Another feature was the open motor, which provided access to all details. Without the use of special equipment, the engine could be disassembled, repaired and reassembled. Two-stroke engine had one cylinder. The maximum speed that he could develop was 50 km / h. The capacity of the gas tank is 7 liters.Drum brakes when installedwinter tires with good treads made it possible to confidently stay on the road in slush, rain and ice.
The main elements were arranged as follows:
- on the right - brakes;
- on the left - the gearbox control lever;
- there was a clutch, gas and front brake knob on the steering wheel;
- the air filter was located behind the carburetor.
It is necessary to fill in the gas tank with oil and gasoline already mixed in a separate container. The engine will not start without oil or will damaged after the first overheating. AI - 80 was used for fuel.
Disadvantages also occurred invehicle of the Lviv plant. Frequent breakdowns required constant renovation. And everything could break down on it, from the ignition system to the engine itself. And also any replacement of parts did not give an increase in power. mokiku.
Another drawback was the cooling system. Due to its proximity to the carburetor, it was constantly clogged.The frame in front of the vehicle had meone hundred often break. Therefore, her nhad to be brewed.
From positive sides it should be noted that there is no electric starter. He started up with a push or a foot. For many in modern times, this feature will be more likely a disadvantage, but at that time, the absence of an electric starter made the moped efficient in the cold season and allowed to save battery power.
Competitors were such Riga-made mopeds as the Delta, but the main preference was still given to the "Karpaty". Due to its low cost and high mileage guarantee. The latter for this vehicle corresponded to 18,000 km. While the Delta's guaranteed mileage was only 6000 km.At that time, the "Karpaty" moped was the best option for economical travel.
Specifications
Almost all models of the Carpathians have dimensions, weight and others. specifications were the same. Therefore, this information will be given in the form of a list:
- the dimensions of the moped (DSHV) in millimeters - 18207201100;
Production period moped and "Karpaty" begins in 1981 and ends at 199 2 . The line was finally discontinued in 1997.Among competitors, he took first place. Better than "Karpaty" with an engine capacity of up to fifty cubic meters was not in the country. He was a legend of the USSR.
In the early nineties was constructed new engine with inlet petal valve. However, they did not manage to install it on Karpaty. The collapse of the Soviet Union led to a decline in demand for mopeds. Lviv motorcycle factory died along with the collapse of the country.There have been attempts by small firms to revive data production motokik , but they failed, and the demand has already gone to completely different models and brands of mopeds.
Now you can hardly find mopeds from the Soviet era, but you can still find mopeds such as the Carpathians or Riga in small towns and villages. Let's take a look at the first one. After all, this particular moped is the best representative of those times.
They began to produce this moped back in the USSR, and the plant was located in Lvov. Then this moped model was very popular, because the manufacturer was able to make not only an inexpensive and practical vehicle, but also a reliable and productive moped, which, among other things, still had a rather stylish design at that time. Compared to modern motorcycles and mopeds, this model, of course, is considered old and uninteresting, but then it was a real miracle of technology. The Carpathians had only two steps on the box, but they could provide the driver with excellent movement. At that time buy a moped carpathians in Ukraine could be very simple and affordable price and that is why the moped has become so popular.
The second reason for the rise in popularity was the ease of assembly. Even in the photo you can see a small motor and all its components, which are located without any additional protection or plastic. Eventually moped repair carpathians was very simple, and even a schoolboy could cope with it. But there were also insignificant drawbacks in the motor, and one of them was the impossibility to somehow modify, that is, to tune the moped. Therefore, I had to use the characteristics provided by the manufacturer. I don’t know how it was in the days of the USSR, but now this moped often asks for repair. Most likely, this is due to the long service life, because some models are already well over 30 years old. But this once again proves that then the technique was done conscientiously, and the Carpathians are an example of this.
Moped engine Karpaty
The motor of a moped is quite modest, but still it can give excellent speed and traction characteristics. With an engine volume of 50 cm. Cube. the power was only 2 hp, while the moped could easily carry the driver and one passenger. From my own experience I will say that I managed to carry two passengers, which once again proves that the Carpathians are an excellent moped. As with most scooters or mopeds, this model was equipped with one cylinder, giving out two strokes. The maximum speed was 55 km per hour, and the gas tank could hold 7 liters of fuel.
As we said, the moped has several drawbacks, and they are all related to repairs. Moped Carpathians, piston which is not made in the best way, tends to break, and requires frequent replacement. But even if you are using this moped now, do not be discouraged, because now on the market you can find a similar piston size for your iron horse. Replacement piston group also won't pose a big problem for you, an open motor has access to most of the parts.
Earlier soviet mopeds did not have the ability to install an electric starter, so all mopeds and motorcycles started with a kick starter. But for this model, this is rather a plus, because if you start the scooter with your foot, your battery will remain charged, which makes it possible to ride a moped even in winter.
That's all, you can discuss this moped, its pros and cons for a long time, because the Carpathians have a lot of both positive and negative sides. If you have anything to say about this, write in the comments below.
