An important element of acoustic tuning is the soundproofing of the car doors. When installing any music system in a car, complete insulation, if not required, is very desirable. But the preparation of car doors for acoustics must be carried out in any case. Because without this, the music will play badly.
If you do not listen to music in the car very often, and the main goal for which you make noise insulation is to make the car quieter, getting rid of a significant amount of external noise, then the doors should also be given close attention, since it is through them that about 30 % of all noise.
How to make soundproofing of car doors correctly?
It all depends on your goals. If you just want to achieve noise reduction while driving, you will need one method; processing doors to music will require a different technique and used materials.
Conventionally, four different options for soundproofing car doors can be distinguished, depending on what you are doing it for.
The first option is the minimum soundproofing of the car doors.
It is not suitable for installing acoustics. But to make street noises less, this is quite enough. In order to process the doors to a minimum, you need to stick on the outer door panel, in a continuous layer, or at least 70-80%, vibration-absorbing material (StP vibroplast, shumoff).
A vibration damper 2 mm thick can be used. And the noise-insulating material (accent, splen) can be glued to the inner panel of the door card, it will reflect the noise, and also serve as a kind of dust and moisture protection. Scraps of vibration-absorbing material can be glued to the flat spots of the door card.
This option is the cheapest in terms of cost. But this allows you to improve the noise picture inside the cabin, without spending a significant amount of money.
The second option is the average soundproofing of the car doors.
We can say that such soundproofing of car doors is optimal in terms of price / quality ratio. This method uses more special materials and mounts them a little differently. This allows you to seriously reduce noise from the road, and also makes it possible to install acoustics in the door and get a good return from it.
The first layer, on the outer door panel, is to use a vibration absorber 2 mm thick (vibroplast from StP, Shumoff m2). And in the place opposite the speaker, you can glue a sheet of 3 mm (shumoff m3). It is also advisable to add an acoustic lens here. Soundproofing material can be glued on top of the "vibra", but you can do without it. There is no consensus on this matter.
In order for the speakers to play well, you need to make something similar to speakers out of the doors. To do this, a rigid vibration absorber (for example, a visomat MP) must be rolled onto the outer panel, closing the technological holes.
The door cards themselves need to be glued with a thin vibration absorber, a thickness of 2 mm will do (vibroplast silver, gold, shumoff m2). And then glue the entire inner surface with a sound absorber 5-10 mm thick (Bitoplast from StP, hermetic from Shumoff).
The third option is the maximum soundproofing of the car doors.
Such used when you plan to install a powerful speaker system with good midbass in the doors. In this case, the doors must be prepared for such speakers. External noise is no longer the main target. However, with this kind of treatment, you are guaranteed to get rid of most of them.
- As the first layer, on the outer panel, you can use vibration-absorbing material, 3 mm thick (shumoff m3), but not thicker, so as not to make the doors too heavy.
- A sheet of soundproofing material with a waterproof adhesive layer (shumoff p4, p8) can be glued on top.
- Technological holes in the inner panel can be closed with special aluminum foil on an adhesive basis, and a hard vibra, 2-3 mm thick, can be rolled on top.
- On top - soundproofing material, thickness 4-5 (splen, shumoff p4).
The door card also needs to be processed with a 2 mm "vibra". And under it, glue a noise absorber, 10-15 mm thick, with a wavy surface (such as hermetic).
The fourth type of car door noise insulation is extreme.
Such soundproofing of car doors is intended for processing doors under powerful acoustics, the so-called "loud front". These are systems that are used to compete in frontal acoustics loudness, or sound pressure. The door is processed with the thickest and most efficient materials. The risk that this will make them too heavy is not taken into account.
- First, the door needs to be reinforced. This can be done either with strips of rigid "vibra", or with aluminum strips, which are glued at small intervals onto the outer panel.
- Then a thick vibration absorber 4 mm thick is rolled between them (bimast bombs, shumoff mix f, shumoff prof).
- The next layer is soundproofing of car doors or a sound absorber with waterproof glue or latex film (hermetic). Technological windows are also closed on the outer panel. Here you can use polyester resin or aluminum sheets. From above, they are rolled with a thick "vibra", 3-4 mm (bimast bombs, shumoff m3, m4). After that, a layer of noise insulator is glued (splen, shumoff p4).
- The door card is processed with vibration pieces to get rid of vibrations and bounce. And under it is glued the thickest sound absorber that can fit (for example, hermetic A15, A30).
The area covered by the sound absorber depends on how many speakers are in the door. Since the door card can contain several midbasses, "middle", it is attached to the door iron with through bolts, and the acoustics is installed later.
Before you implement any option for soundproofing doors in a car, described here, think carefully about which one is right for you, for your car and purpose. Remember, no matter how well you handle the doors, you cannot do anything with the windows. And a large percentage of the noise will enter the cabin through them.
Soundproofing car doors is just as important as the "noise" of the entire car. A large amount of unwanted noise from the roadway enters through the doors. After completing this process, the following is observed:
- reduction of external sounds, most of which are created by passing cars;
- doors close much quieter by increasing their weight;
- improving the sound of audio systems.
Do not forget about the drawback, which is the sagging of the door due to the increase in its weight, after vibration and noise isolation.
The choice of materials for noise and vibration insulation
Vibration-absorbing materials are used to reduce "structure-borne noise" - the sounds that are produced as a result of vibration of metal elements of a car, namely:
- engine;
- transmissions;
- suspension elements.
This will achieve a good result. These materials have an adhesive base, which allows installation to be carried out rather quickly and without the use of additional tools. Also, this adhesive has sealing properties to protect metal body parts from corrosion.
All these materials are made on the basis of bitumen or mastic with or without aluminum foil:
Sound absorbing materials are used to isolate extraneous sounds. They are based on a foamed (porous) fabric - polyethylene. Depending on the properties and qualities of this insulator, they are available with or without foil. "Accent" (open-celled structure) and "isotone" (covered with a metallized film) are the main representatives of this group.
The "pluses" include high thermal insulation properties, since noise and sound insulating substances have low thermal conductivity.
Sound insulating materials are necessary to isolate the vehicle from external noise. They are a minor material and are used after vibration isolators. The main representatives of the sound insulator, which are based on foamed polyethylene and an adhesive base, are:
- barrier;
- vibroton;
- spleen.
Soundproofing car door frame
Do-it-yourself car door soundproofing is a process that does not take much time. It requires patience and a few tools:
- a set of screwdrivers for disassembling the door trim;
- construction hairdryer;
- construction knife or scissors;
- degreaser / thinner;
- a stitching roller;
- noise and vibration insulation material.
Correct soundproofing of car doors You also need to decide which "Shumka" to choose. It depends on what result you want to achieve:
- improving the quality of audio sound;
- removing squeaks and vibrations of metal body elements for greater comfort.
The above will determine what kind of soundproofing of the car doors will be used:
- minimum;
- standard;
- maximum.
Consider a standard door treatment option. For him you need:
- disassemble the door, namely - remove the door trim, protective film (if any) in order to gain full access to all necessary surfaces;
- further, the inner surfaces should be treated with a solvent or degreaser so that there is no fat, dirt and moisture on them;
- after that, the first layer of vibration-insulating material, vibroplast M1, is glued to the inside of the door;
- the next stage of the work is the application of a layer of sound insulation. It can be spleen or accent.
- technological holes on the door are sealed with a cut of the required shape with a small overlap with aluminum foil ("Viek");
- after that, vibration isolation (vibroplast M1) is glued to the aluminum foil. The result is one glued surface, consisting of two layers.
When performing all operations, the main thing is not to disturb the correct operation of all rods and cables, as well as electrical wiring.
Hello dear readers and have visited the blog Avtoguid.ru Today in the article we will take a closer look at how the soundproofing of car doors with our own hands is performed. There is nothing difficult in this, and everyone, if desired and in the absence of laziness, will be able to complete the work as efficiently and quickly as possible.
It is not the gods who burn the pots, and therefore there is no need to give in to difficulties. Then you can always brag to friends or relatives about the soundproofing of car doors with your own hands. Soundproofing the doors is not necessary for new vehicles. They are in excellent technical condition and the vehicle's mileage is minimal.
Used cars that have already traveled hundreds of thousands of kilometers need soundproofing. It is the car doors that begin to let in noise while driving first. The presence of extraneous sounds is annoying to most drivers. At the first appearance of the problem, there is no need to postpone its solution on the back burner. We must immediately begin to improve the sound insulation of the car doors.
Why is the soundproofing of the car broken?
The use of the car does not always take place on a high-quality asphalt surface. You can often see cars rushing into the distance and bouncing on the unevenness of the dirt road. Poor-quality road surface not only tests the strength of the car's suspension, it leads to the strongest vibration.
Frequent trips on bad roads are fraught with the fact that fasteners for doors, hood, trunk and other body elements begin to loosen under the influence of vibration. Of course, during the first or second year of car operation, they cannot appear, but after five years they will make themselves felt by the appearance of extraneous noise in the car interior.
Even the highest quality and most expensive car is not protected from interior noise insulation violation. Doors start to "make noise" first. Due to their frequent use of opening and closing, the integrity of the fastening and fixing elements is violated. Often, many manufacturers pay minimal attention to soundproofing car doors. The quality of protection against the penetration of extraneous sounds leaves much to be desired.
That is why the doors of the car are the weak link and the extraneous sounds are the first to begin to pass through. Do not be upset, soundproofing car doors with your own hands, with proper preparation, will not take up a lot of free time. It is necessary to prepare in advance and you can start doing the work.
The car body is not only the protection of the driver and passengers. He is a real barrier to the penetration of extraneous noise into the vehicle interior. It must be remembered that the car body is not a one-piece structure. It includes many elements and doors as well.
Car manufacturers pay special attention to soundproofing the car's interior. It must be remembered that it directly affects the level of comfort of a particular car. The operation of the car leads to the fact that the noise insulation of the passenger compartment suffers and decreases. Extraneous noises begin to annoy the driver and to some extent affect road safety.
Correctly performed soundproofing of car doors with your own hands makes it possible to reduce the noise level inside the cabin by 30-40 percent. These are quite large indicators that increase the comfort of driving. It is important to prepare the necessary materials and tools before starting work.
Soundproofing car doors on your own can be broken down into several main stages:
Dismantling the door.
It is necessary to carry out work in a well-lit room. You need to open the car doors and start dismantling the trim. The process is quite tedious and takes a lot of free time. It is necessary to unscrew all screws and carefully remove all clamps.
When disassembling the door, there is no need to rush, since the probability of damage to the fasteners of the door trim is quite high. When dismantling the casing, it is advisable to remember the disassembly process. You will need this later, when you need to put everything in place.
When disassembling the car door trim, you do not need to dismantle the glass lifter mechanism. It will not interfere with the door soundproofing work. The door opening and closing mechanism can be left on in the same way.
Removing factory insulation.
At the second stage, it is necessary to remove the material from the factory soundproofing of car doors. Due to age and the impact of external negative factors, it is outdated and can no longer be used.
In addition to removing the sound-insulating material, it is necessary to remove the anti-corrosion protection of the door metal. Ultimately, the metal should be free from any materials. Before starting the next stage of soundproofing car doors on your own, you need to degrease the working surface to ensure reliable fixation of the used soundproofing material.
Soundproofing car doors.
To improve the soundproofing ability of a car door, its inner surface must be pasted over with a special vibration damping material. Typically used Vibroplast or another material similar in its properties.
They need to glue the maximum possible internal area of the car door. Be sure to pay attention to all technological niches or holes. If they are not glued, they can become sources of sound penetration and then all the work will go down the drain.
Soundproofing car doors significantly improves the acoustic properties of the passenger compartment. To enhance the sound of the standard speakers, it is enough to glue the Vibroplast cut-out elements in the doors opposite them.
It is not necessary to completely glue the entire surface of the door with soundproofing material. Vibroplast like a sponge absorbs moisture and therefore can create excellent conditions for the development of a corrosive process. Moisture begins to accumulate and collect in the door.
All technological openings of the car door are sealed with Vibroplast from the inside. The most important thing is not to overdo it and not to use an excessive amount of material. Some motorists thereby disrupt the operation of the window regulator mechanism and door locking. It should not be forgotten that a large amount of material makes the car door heavier. Thus, it is possible to disrupt the operation of the door opening and closing mechanism.
After the inner surface of the door is pasted over with Vibroplast, you can start applying the next material. Used by Bitoplast at least 10 millimeters thick.
Soundproofing door trim.
After completing work with the inner surface of the door, you can start trimming. Many do not pay due attention to it and it is completely unreasonable. The door trim also needs insulation. Experts recommend passing the entire surface of the cladding with Bitoplast. Along the contour of the sheathing, where the material protrudes, you can trim it.
The final final stage of soundproofing car doors with your own hands consists in assembling each car door to its original state. Before this, power windows are tested for operability, as well as door opening and closing mechanisms.
All materials used for soundproofing a car must be preheated. If you do not have a professional construction hair dryer, you can use an ordinary homemade hair dryer. The pre-heated material fits better and adheres to the metal surface.
If squeaks and other extraneous sounds are clearly heard when opening or closing the door, you can use a squeak remover Bitolon. A fairly convenient and effective tool for eliminating squeaks. This will make it possible to make the process of opening and closing doors practically silent.
Why do you need to do noise insulation of a car door with your own hands?
After a few years, even after buying a new car, extraneous noise inside the passenger compartment may appear. If at first they do not cause much concern to the driver, then over time after amplification they begin to be quite annoying.
Carrying out noise insulation of the car will significantly improve the driving comfort. Often, extraneous noise distracts the driver from driving. All this negatively affects the safety of driving. Strengthening sound insulation will make it possible to reduce the risk of accidents.
Soundproofing car doors will significantly increase the acoustic capabilities of the vehicle interior. The sound quality of the music will increase. After completing the work, all rattling sounds and vibrations that occur while the vehicle is moving will disappear.
Do not forget that soundproofing the car doors has a positive effect on reducing heat loss. In a car, even with the engine turned off, a positive air temperature remains for a long time.
Means for making noise insulation of car doors with your own hands
Today on sale you can find a large number of means of soundproofing the inner surface of a car door. They differ in price and quality.
The following popular soundproofing materials can be distinguished:
1.Vibroplast Silver 100, cost per 0.5m² of material $ 7-8.
Durable and convenient material for noise insulation of car doors. The average sheet size is 0.5m². The weight of one sheet is up to 1.5 kg. To achieve the maximum result, the area of treatment with the material should be up to 80%.
Has a high vibration absorption capacity. Before starting work, it is necessary to heat the surface of the material with a hairdryer. The average material thickness is 2 millimeters.
2.Kirch Vibroblock standard, cost for 0.3m² of material 4-5 $ US dollars.
What do you need when you are going to do it yourself?
This is a building hair dryer (required, no home hair dryer will work), a stitching roller (you can make it yourself from scrap materials, but I advise you to buy it - the cost is low, but the benefits are tangible), scissors (for cutting), solvent (you can use white- spirit, as a degreaser before applying soundproofing) and the desire to make "Shumka".
What materials are there
Vibroplast Silver
Flexible, resilient vibration-damping material, self-adhesive backing with aluminum foil. The layout drawing (squares 5x5 cm) allows you to cut the sheet into parts of the desired size. Does not absorb moisture and has anti-corrosion properties, works as a sealant. Easily mounted on surfaces with complex reliefs. Does not require heating during installation. Weight 3 kg / m2. Thickness 2 mm.Processing zones: doors, roof, body sides, hood and trunk lids, engine shield from the car interior.
Vibroplast Gold
The same as the vibroplast Silver, but thicker. This means it has greater vibration isolation. Weight 4 kg / m2. Thickness 2.3 mm.BiMast Bomb
Vibration-absorbing material. Represents a multilayer structure from a face layer (aluminum foil), a sheet based on a bitumen composition, a sheet based on a rubber composition. During installation, it requires heating up to 40 - 50 ° С (a technical hair dryer is required). Does not absorb moisture. Has the highest efficiency. Ideal for audio speaker preparation. Thickness: 4.2mm. Weight: 6 kg / m2.Treatment areas: engine shield, underbody, wheel arches, area above the muffler or propeller shaft.
Spleen 3004
Soundproofing material with an adhesive layer. Possesses high heat-insulating properties. Does not absorb moisture. Weight: 0.42 kg / m3, thickness - 4 mm. It can be operated at temperatures from -40 ° С to + 70 ° С. Processing areas: engine shield from the passenger compartment, wheel arches, doors, floor. There is splen 3008, which is 8 mm thick, and splen 3002, which is 2 mm thick. Splenna is glued to the doors, front, rear arches. To create a strong bond, the surfaces to be bonded must be clean and dry. White spirit or acetone is used to clean the surfaces to be glued. The optimum application temperature is 18 - 35 ° C. At temperatures below + 10 ° С it is not recommended to apply "Splen" due to the low initial adhesion force. The adhesive tape should be applied without tension. The protective layer is removed immediately before application.
Bitoplast 5 (antiskrip)
Sound-absorbing and sealing material (eliminates squeaks, bounce in the cabin) based on polyurethane foam with a sticky layer, protected by a gasket, with a special impregnation. Waterproof, durable, not subject to decomposition, has thermal insulation properties. Thickness 5 mm. Weight 0.4 kg / m2. It also comes in a thickness of 10 mm (Bitoplast 10).
Accent 10
Sound absorbing material. Consists of a metallized film, flexible polyurethane foam and an adhesive mounting layer. Possesses good heat-shielding properties. Absorbs up to 90% of noise. Thickness - 10 mm, weight - 0.5 kg / m2. It is efficient at temperatures from -40 ° С to + 100 ° С.Processing areas: hood and trunk lid, engine compartment bulkhead.
Madeleine
Madeleine is a 1-1.5 mm thick black fabric-based sealing and decorative material with an adhesive layer protected by a release liner. Application:
- gaps between decorative elements of the passenger compartment and the body
- instrument panel gaps
- duct seal
Above is a description of products from STP. In the next part of the article we will talk about it. But let's clarify that there are other manufacturers with their own names. In terms of technical characteristics, they are identical and perform similar functions.
Bonnet soundproofing
Do not think that by making the hood soundproofing, you will get rid of the engine noise. It is done mostly for thermal insulation of the motor in winter. The work will need "accent" (10 mm) and "vibroplast silver". We need to take into account the weight of the material, if you make the hood too heavy, then soon its shock absorbers will flow (not available on all cars), then you will have to change them.
As vibration isolation, we use "vibroplast silver" (or an analogue), which is lightweight. A special material - "accent" is used as thermal insulation, which is designed to retain heat inside the engine compartment in winter, is resistant to high temperatures and will not catch fire from engine heat. Thickness - the more the better.
Let's pay attention to the presence of factory thermal insulation protection. In no case should you throw it away. Our additional soundproofing should be a help, not a replacement. In order to later return the standard thermal insulation of the hood without any problems, you should not choose a thick "accent".
On some cars there is no factory "Shumka" hood, then additional protection from the cold is needed. The thickest material is used as thermal insulation - at least 15 mm thick. Together with the application of vibration isolation, this will give a good effect.
Soundproofing doors
It is done to get rid of external noise and improve the sound of music in the car (acoustic preparation). From personal experience I will say that even a simple "noise" of the door works wonders. The music after it starts to play much better.
For a minimum, only vibration isolation is required, such as "vibroplast silver" or "gold". You need to glue on the inside of the door opposite the column. The larger the coverage area, the better. The thinner the metal, the more it is required. Consider the weight of this "Shumka". If you heavily weight the door, then over time it will sag, then you will have to change the hinges. A smart approach is needed. If you are going to improve the sound of an audio system, then you will not get off with small funds. We need an integrated approach and sound insulation of at least 4 layers (!).
The first layer is glued inside the door. The basis is "vibroplast-silver" ("gold") or a small amount of "bimast bombs" in the place behind the speaker. The second layer - on top of the vibration isolation, a “splen” of 4-8 mm is laid. Next comes the "Shumka" under the door trim and will suit lovers of high-quality car sound. It is necessary to completely seal the technological holes in order to make the volume of the door, in which the speaker plays, airtight. After this operation the rigidity of the door will increase, which will have a positive effect on the sound... Outside we glue over with "vibroplast Silver" and on top with "splen".
The next step is soundproofing the door cards. We do so that they do not creak and make unnecessary sounds. Useful anti-creak and noise-insulating material "Bitoplast". The thicker the better. Do not forget about the "crickets" inside the door and additionally glue the rods and handles with the help of "Madeleine - antiskrip" (similar to a rag with an adhesive base).
The soundproofing of the rear doors is the same as for the front doors. If there are no speakers in the door, the number of layers is reduced and materials are easier to use.
Soundproofing the ceiling and floor of the car
It is done to reduce outside noise, mainly from rain, and also to remove "crickets". When it is raining heavily, there will be no loud "drumbeats" in the cabin, there will be slightly muffled beats that do not cause discomfort. Vibroplast Gold or Silver is used as a basis. Weight is important, because the heavier the ceiling, the higher the center of gravity of the car, which will negatively affect handling. Therefore, we use spleen 4-8 mm, possibly in 2 layers. The main thing is that the ceiling lining is then normally installed in its place (nothing interfered).Soundproofing the floor is done to protect itself from the noise of the road and from the impact of small stones on the bottom of the car. You use the best quality vibration and noise materials. Usually they put vibration isolation "bimast bombs" (the best in characteristics, but the heaviest), and a layer of noise-thermal insulation "splen" 4 or 8 mm is placed on top.
It is inconvenient to lay splenos of large thickness, therefore it is better to take material of lesser thickness, but lay in 2 layers. Be sure to lay the spleen on the entire floor surface, without gaps. The larger the coverage area, the better.
Pay attention to the places of the wheel arches on the side of the passenger compartment - these are important places. It is better to glue them in 2 or 3 layers of thicker "Shumka", and use "bimast bombs" as vibration isolation. If it is not there, then glue it over, for example, with "vibroplast gold" in 2 layers.
Soundproofing of a trunk, wheel arches, arches
Attention should be pointed at the spare wheel well and completely glue this place with "vibration isolation". Also "noise" the plastic lining of the trunk with the anti-creak material "Bitoplast". Soundproofing the wheel arches is necessary to improve the comfort in the passenger compartment. If done correctly, the noise from the wheels and the roadway will be minimal. In winter, there will be no noise from the spikes on winter tires.The sequence is as follows: remove the wheel arch liners (you cannot throw them out, because they are good insulators). Then we clean it from dirt and apply vibration-insulating material "vibroplast gold" to the inner layer of the arch. It is also useful to treat the wheel arches with anti-gravel. This is, on the one hand, protection against corrosion, and on the other, also sound insulation.
Plastic wheel arch liners should be soundproofed. To do this, we glue the "vibroplast Silver" on the reverse side. As soundproofing "Bitoplast". Next, we put the fender liners in place. As a result, the impact of pebbles on the wheel niche will not be heard.
Many newbies are afraid of damaging the trim clips when disassembling the car. Therefore, work must be done in a warm garage: in the cold, plastic dubs, cracks under load. If you need advice on how to properly disassemble the interior trim, then find photo reports on the Internet on parsing your model. It’s difficult only the first time. The main thing is not to rush and do everything very carefully. When something does not lend itself to disassembling the casing, then you should not use force, but carefully look again, maybe you forgot to unscrew it. For the first time, it is advisable to have spare caps. 
How to correctly calculate the required amount of material so that there is not a lot of surplus left? It is necessary to roughly compare the area of "Shumka" with the area of the treated surface. For example, "vibration" is glued to 30-50% of the total area. And sound-absorbing - on the entire surface. Means "vibras" will be needed less. To calculate accurately, take a small amount of "Shumka" on one door. Do it. Then you will find out how much you need. 
Is it possible to glue "vibra" on clean metal, without dirt, without degreasing. Should peeling off after a while? In this case, if there was no dirt, it will hold on tightly. Degreasing is necessary for perfect cleanliness, but many neglect it. Vibration isolation holds perfectly if it is properly rolled. Another thing is to glue the "spleen". When the surface was dirty, it will surely fly off after some time. NOISE INSULATION OF CAR DOORS ACCORDING TO THE "PREMIUM" OPTION IN THE "ANTI-NOISE" STUDIO
WHY DOOR NOISE INSULATION IS NECESSARY AND WHAT DOES IT GIVE YOU?
Correct soundproofing of car doors is the first point of the program for stage-by-stage soundproofing of the passenger compartment. This is due to the fact that the total area of all doors is large enough and is the largest among all other body elements. And the metal of the doors and roof of the car is the thinnest and devoid of stiffeners. This thin metal not only resonates during the operation of acoustics, vibrates from the impact of oncoming air currents at speed, vibrates along with the rest of the car body from road irregularities. It also freely passes the noise from passing cars and other noise from outside into the cabin. After all, it is much easier for a sound wave to pass through the thin metal of the door and the same thin plastic sheathing than through the more massive glass of the car!
Full-fledged and high-quality vibration and noise-insulating door processing allows you to really reduce the noise level in the car! You will no longer clearly hear the noise of cars standing nearby in a traffic jam or passing cars, the cabin will become much more comfortable and cozy, because by closing the soundproofed door you are truly reliably separated from the outside world in the cabin of your car.
In addition, as pleasant "bonuses" you will receive a significant improvement in the sound of the acoustics (even the standard one), because the door will become more rigid and there will be much fewer holes in it, and the sound of the acoustics will not freely go out through the outer metal of the door.
That is why soundproofing car doors is the most important stage in our work!
PRICE: RUB 10,000-15,000 for 4 doors
TIME: 2-3 hours
NUMBER OF LAYERS: 3-4 layers
THE WEIGHT: 1.3-1.8 kg per door
HOW DO WE DO NOISE INSULATION OF DOORS?
Obviously, for soundproofing the doors, it is necessary to disassemble them. To disassemble the door, first of all, its plastic sheathing is dismantled. As a rule, there are several pieces of standard factory "sound insulation" on the skin.
However, these pieces, which are scarce in area and thickness, are not always enough to protect the interior from noise, and the door trim from bounce and squeaks. In addition, the skins are sometimes made of such thin plastic that they rattle and resonate even at a low volume of the audio system. In this case, we apply small pieces of vibration isolator STP Silver to flat areas of plastic. This material, due to its weight and ductility, will significantly reduce the resonant frequency of thin plastic. You can use STP AERO, and any other vibration isolator with a thickness of 2-3 mm.
Since the free space under the cladding is usually sufficient for the application of materials of considerable thickness. The only requirement is that the material should not be rigid, so as not to push the trim away from the metal of the door in the places where they fit snugly. Therefore, we apply a soft and viscous sound absorber Biplast Premium, 20 mm thick, to the entire cladding area. The material is self-adhesive, embossed, soft, airy and effective over a wide frequency range. We leave holes for fasteners, wiring plugs and speaker.
Now we can put the trim aside and go directly to the soundproofing of the door itself ... And here the nuances begin. After all, the design of the doors of different cars can differ significantly. Here are the most common layouts ...
The easiest to disassemble is the door structure with holes in the inner metal, through which there is access to the outer metal of the doors. This door design is common on Toyota, Suzuki, Subaru, Chevrolet, BMW and many, many others. A door with the specified design is easier to disassemble, but it is more difficult to glue, because through the holes with their not always convenient location and sharp metal edges, full access to the volume of the door is sometimes possible. The holes are usually covered with factory-made polyethylene. It serves primarily as a steam and moisture insulation of the passenger compartment, because moisture is very common inside the doors. This can be seen even in the photo.
We remove the polyethylene, dismantle the speaker of the audio system and gain access to the volume of the door ...
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It is through these holes that materials are applied to the outer metal of doors of such a design. However, along with this arrangement, another car door scheme is often found. Often, disassembling the door, you can see not the film and large "windows" under it, but a plastic shield that completely blocks access to the inside of the door. This design is found on Mazda, Kia, Hyundai, Jeep and many others.
This shield may also not be plastic, but metal. This door design is found on many Mercedes, Volkswagen, Volvo, Ford and the already mentioned Kia cars (recently, Kia's transition to plastic shields is obvious). Sometimes this metal part is even riveted to the metal of the door with rivets, but these are quite rare cases (for example, Skoda Octavia A5 and some Mercedes cars).
In this case, you need to dismantle the glass or hang it in the opening, and then remove the shield, gaining access to the volume of the door. Disassembly, of course, takes some time and requires skills and preparation, but all this pays off with the convenience of gluing and the ability to apply the material to the maximum area, carefully and aesthetically!
For maximum clarity, it is on the example of such a door that we will show the technology of applying our materials to the outer metal, because the gluing scheme is the same for doors of any design. To begin with, the metal is degreased and dried. This is a prerequisite for proper sound insulation, and it is this that ensures reliable adhesion of materials and the durability of doors and a car body, because when materials are applied to a dirty and non-greased surface, air cavities will inevitably remain under the material, which will subsequently lead to the formation of condensation and corrosion in them. We degrease the metal with a special anti-silicone (for example, Body 770 or Novol 780). So, on a clean, degreased and dried surface, we apply the first layer. Its task is to damp the vibrations of the thin metal of the door. Therefore, the first layer on the door is a light and effective vibration isolator STP AERO. With a thickness of only 2 mm, it has a mechanical loss coefficient KMP = 0.33, and the StP Aero material is effective in a wide temperature range, from -10 C to +30 C. Aero, like any other vibration isolator, must be carefully rolled hard to the metal surface roller, only then it will work as efficiently as possible. There is no need to apply material to door amplifiers, double metal and other elements with a low resonant frequency (hard and “dull” to knock). It is not necessary to glue the drainage holes at the bottom of the door; it is better to step back a few centimeters from the edges of the door to avoid overlaps, moisture ingress and delamination of materials. The optimum area of coverage of a thin-walled element with vibration-insulating material is 70%. More is possible, but the effect of this will no longer significantly increase.
Now you can move on to applying the second layer. There is usually enough space in the volume of the door, so even a material of considerable thickness can be applied there. Therefore, it would be wrong to neglect this layer. However, there are also limitations. As mentioned above, moisture often gets into the volume of the door: during rain and washing, water flows through the slots of the side windows, moisture from the warm and saturated air quickly condenses on the cold metal. And that is why the soundproofing material for the second layer must have a moisture-resistant adhesive layer and not absorb water. After numerous experiments, the following material was developed: this is the STP Accent Premium 10 mm thick sound absorber. The material has a moisture-resistant sealant instead of an adhesive layer, and also has a closed-cell structure that does not allow it to absorb moisture. The question arises, how can a closed-cell material work for sound absorption, because in this case it works as a sound insulator ?! However, everything is pretty simple. StP Accent Premium is needle punched, which reveals part of the cells on the surface of this material. Subsequently, the front surface is covered with a film that prevents moisture from entering the open cells, but does not interfere with sound waves entering these cells. So, apply the second layer to the outer metal of the doors.
Now that two full layers of effective materials are applied to the outer metal of the doors, we put in place a plastic or metal shield and fix the glass. If the shield is plastic, it is usually made of thick and massive material, has many ribs and bends, and it is on it that the guides, the window motor and other parts and assemblies are fixed. All this gives it additional rigidity, which means that it does not need vibration isolation. If the shield is metal, it is not only impractical to glue 100% of the shield surface, but it is also harmful. After all, then the technological holes for removing the glass, all the wiring and fasteners of the shield itself are closed. Thus, if you later have to disassemble the door for repair (problems with locks, power windows, body repair, glass replacement, etc.), then you may encounter problems. Therefore, it is enough to apply a vibration isolator to the flat areas of the shield and close all existing through holes with the same material.
If the door has a design with "windows", and not a shield, then we replace the standard plastic film with a vibration isolator, closing all openings with it. In this case, if access to the door is required, it will be necessary to slightly warm up the vibration isolator and remove it in the desired place on the door.
Now we can replace the plastic door trim that we had processed earlier, and after the final assembly and checking the functionality of all circuits (lighting, power windows, locking locks, etc.), the door sound insulation is over!
In the following articles, we will tell you about the sound insulation of other elements of your car using our technology!
You can learn more about our technology of car noise insulation from the videos shot in the studios. ANTI-NOISE!
If you have any questions - just call the nearest studio ANTI-NOISE! Contacts of all our studios can be found in the corresponding section of our website -. We will be happy to help you!
