Home Wheels Replacing bushings (rubber bands) of the transverse stability of the front suspension on Daewoo Lanos cars, Daewoo Nexia, Daewoo Sens, Chevrolet Lanos. How to change the stabilizer bushings on different models of the car? How the stabilizer bushings are put

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Replacing bushings (rubber bands) of the transverse stability of the front suspension on Daewoo Lanos cars, Daewoo Nexia, Daewoo Sens, Chevrolet Lanos. How to change the stabilizer bushings on different models of the car? How the stabilizer bushings are put

The car's suspension first meets all the irregularities on the way of the car, taking on all the blows from pits, bumps and other "pleasant" surprises, who are fed by our roads. Each suspension assembly has its own specific purpose, but in the aggregate, they all are intended to extinguish emerging percussion loads when moving the machine, as well as ensure proper handling and stability. vehicle When turning turns or the implementation of sharp maneuvers. Details such as stabilizer bushing transverse stability, often require replacement. Work can be done with your own hands.

A little about the work of the car suspension

It is not difficult to guess that the level of security and comfort on the road both for the driver and for passengers almost directly depends on the condition of the suspension, as well as how well it copes with its tasks.

Each component of the automatic suspension is aimed at a specific function. The levers together with the axles hold the wheel in the necessary plane, in parallel allowing it to rotate freely in two different planes (the moment of entering the turn).

Shock absorbers quenching the fluctuations arising during the movement, thereby ensuring the smoothness of the vehicle's movement. Springs at the same time are designed to ensure the stiffness of the suspension and the return of its components in the original state.

Main nodes and components of the front suspension of the car

But there is another important detail in the suspension, without which no one modern car Does not do. And this item is a stabilizer. It can easily be seen if the car drive into the lift or put on the observation pit. On the front axle, among the springs, shock absorbers and other levers will easily be visible to the curved steel rod, which is mounted with one of its shoulders to the subframe, and the other - to the wheel of the wheel. Fastening the stabilizer is not hard and allow it to move to it along the axis in the same plane.

In the suspension design, the stabilizer appeared at the dawn of the automotive industry, when the speeds began to reach 20 km / h and above. The introduction of this element in the suspension design made it possible to ensure the preservation of the vehicle stability during the passage of turns and the implementation of maneuvers.

Thus, the main task of the stabilizer during the movement is the distribution of the weight of the body of the car through all its wheels in the event of a roll. In particular, this concerns cases of sufficiently turns or a sudden change of the trajectory of movement.

Principle of operation of the transverse stability stabilizer

On a fairly spread today, the type of McFerson suspension stabilizer is a torsion lever working for a twist. This item is rigidly connected to the car body or subframe. The efforts arising in the suspension are transmitted to the stabilizer through additional levers, which by hinges are communicated with the suspension. This simple scheme allows you to prevent even a serious vehicle roll and even more than its overturning.

The rear axle is most often equipped with a stabilizer of this type in the case of a full drive on the car. If we talk about cars with rear wheel drive and a solid beam in the back bridge, then there the role of the stabilizer is given to the reactive barbecue also known as Panar's thrust.

Also, a number of Japanese SUVs in their time, in addition to Panar's thrust, were additionally equipped with another stabilizer, which in the form of a curved traction walked along the beam rear bridge And communicated with the power components of the body through small levers.

Stabilizer bushings. Signs of malfunction. Effects.

For the best damage to vibration and power influences going on the car body, the overwhelming majority of the suspension elements are connected by elastic elements. The same applies to the stabilizer. For its attachment, special sleeves (gum, pillows) are used from durable rubber or polyurethane. Over time, as the vehicle is used, the bushings can begin to collapse and noticeably lose in elasticity. The result of this becomes unsatisfactory work of the stabilizer \u003d. More serious defects can begin to begin to appear, which will eventually increase over time.

Device diagram Stabilizer and fastening elements

The first symptom that foreshadows the replacement of the sleeves will become a slight stall of the suspension. A similar knock can be observed at the "tired" shock absorbers. Only here in the case of the sleeves he can hear not only on the pits and ughab, but also when entering relatively cool turns. At the same time, the car is often felt excessive and sluggish. The appearance of the knock will be a consequence of the ariser in the connecting nodes of the stabilizer levers due to the wear sleeves.

If there are no measures on time, then the knocks in the future will only increase and will begin throughout the suspension work due to the increasing deformation and the destruction of the sleeves. A transverse bunch of body pitching and an excessive backlash booster can appear. Perhaps the "digging" of the car is not only in turns, but also in cases of braking or rebuilding. Automakers are mostly advised to change the stabilizer bushings every 30-40 thousand runs. However, in our conditions, it is still better to focus on wear sleeves. Therefore, a suddenly arose knock and light rattle in turns will be explicit signs of the smoking replacement of components.

As a popular method of checking the sleeves in health, it is proposed to move on the 2nd gear of the "lying policeman" by the geography. A deaf knock appeared in the pedal area - most likely, the bushings of Khan. You can also just climb everything for the car itself. The worn sleeve will "delight" the presence of cracks and sweetes characteristic of worn and cramped rubber. This cracks are sometimes called "daisies" sometimes called these cracks.

Stabilizer bushing and bracket for fastening

Also, the rubber bushings can simply cry and lose the necessary elasticity. If the bushings of the stabilizer fails to be considered, then just swing up and down and down and down the stabilizer itself. If the backlash, violets and knocks are felt at the bottom of the suspension, it means that the sleeves came into disrepair.

But for best result It is better, of course, to call on the flight, the observation pit or take advantage of the lift. From the tools you will need only a lomik or an assembly blade that you just stop the machine in the bottom and slightly "sharing" the stabilizer, in the places of its docking with the body. If a noticeable backlash was felt or a loss of elasticity was found, then it's time to think about replacing the sleeves.

Stabilizer bushing replacement process

A lot of time replacing the sleeves will not take. It is only necessary required toolplus a well-lit and convenient working area. It is unlikely that the average driver during the work will have access to a professional lift, so it is better to get a pair of jacks in advance and a special hard support

Tool that may need

Horn key and possibly cape.
Ratchet with extension.
Gorog.
Caid head.

Required to replace bushings tools

Procedure for performing work

The car is hanging on the jacks and is reliably fixed.
Wheels are removed. The protection of the crankcase and the fenders is also dismantled.

View of the pillow of the stabilizer before starting work

The next step is the lower lever with the help of a jack raised or focusing under it. If the bushings are changing from both wheels (which is strongly recommended), then it is better to put up the axis of the front wheels or use the jack. All this is necessary in order to remove the load from the stabilizer beam and make it easier to replace the sleeves.

Subdominates the bottom lever to facilitate the replacement of rubber

Next, we can weaken from two sides of the fastening of the transverse stability stabilizer to the car body or subframe. In the event of difficulties with bolts due to contamination and oxide - to handle their "WEDEshka" or another similar solution for subsequent relief of their unscrewing.
The fastening of the sleeve and the sleeve itself is removed. The latter is mostly made by the latter, which greatly facilitates the process of their removal.

Old sleeve is removed from the stabilizer

A new sleeve takes and put in place old. The experienced automaster recommended to wash well and rub planting place Details on the stabilizer. You can still lay a little bushing so that it was more convenient to move it or take advantage of a special lubricant, often running in Remkomplekt.

There is a pre-embossed or lubricated new sleeve

Twisted bolts fastening the hollow clamp.

New bushing at the end of all works

Returns jack or backup from under the lever and put the wheel.

It should be understood that the device and the complexity of the suspension on different cars It may noticeably differ and the instruction presented above is not universal. But for the general understanding of the process and the order of its work more than enough.

Selection video for replacing bushings on various cars

Replacement on VAZ: video guide

Replacement on Renault Megan 2: Video Instructions

Replacing the Rubber Stabilizer on Chevrolet Aveo

Replacing the stabilizer bushings on Hyundai Solaris (Accent)

Work on the replacement of the sleeve is not a challenging or time-consuming task. For everything about everything can take an hour and a half or two. But in the prices of a service station, this service does not apply to the section expensive. So here everyone decides for himself for himself, to fumble in the garage for an hour or another or give the car to the masters and take care of more pressing.

Broken sleeves front stabilizer transverse stability of cars Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia ( Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewoo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos. (Chevrolet Lanos) It is difficult to call emergency breakdown. By their fault, the wheel will not fall off, the brakes will not disappear and the car will not lose handling while driving. But, the headache and the extra consumption of nerve cells these "minor" rinses can provide 100%. Since the knock and rumble, which will appear in the suspension of your car by the fault of the "killed" stabilizer bushings will not be difficult to hear. And even more complicated, every time you pass even small irregularities on the road, to convince yourself that the sounds that make the suspension of your car, no terrible foreshadow. Why endure, nervous and increase the volume of the radio, trying to drown out foreign sounds? It is easier to solve the problem than to put up with her. Moreover, after reading this article, you will know not only the procedure for performing the work, but also about possible unpleasant surprises with which you may encounter in the process. And here you can remember the porch phrase - "warned - it means armed." That is, you should not have any problems, and if they appear, you will cope with them successfully. Hopefully convinced. And you read the article to the end))).

The tool required to replace bushings (rubber band) of the transverse resistance of the front suspension on Daewoo Lanos cars (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos). I'll bend, perhaps with it, as the list of tools is small and much time on its compilation will not leave. What you can not say about the spare parts .... but, about it below. And so, what tool you need in this paper: a cape key to 13, the end heads at 13 and 14 (it will be very good if there is an extended head on 13), a rattling key, a cardan (significantly speeds work), extension core and The caliper (in its absence, you can use the ruler). Watch a photo 1. This is the minimum, if you have, you can replace all the front stabilizer bushings without tangible difficulties. Yes, about difficulties ... It happens and it is not rarely, that the nut of the rack of the stabilizer cannot be unscrewed (firmly climbed, the verge of the nut is strongly "lined") and in this case only one correct solution remains - Bulgarian. With its absence, it is possible to work with the hacksaw. True, in this case, the replacement of alone sleeves (rubber) can not do, they will have to buy a stabilizer rack assembly (which means "assembly" can be found from item below - spare parts). And a few words about the place of work. To replace the stabilizer racks or their sleeves, it will be enough to raise the necessary side by the jack, remove the wheel and calmly begin action. True, in this case, when assembling and tightening the stands of the front stabilizer, you will have to resort to small tricks, which will allow you to do everything "on science." But, let's talk about this in more detail later. But with body bushings (pillows) stabilizer, deal without an observation pit or lift will not work.

Spare parts. What parts relate to stabilizer of the transverse stability of the front suspension? I list - the stabilizer racks 2 pieces (through the eye of the barbell connects the stabilizer with the front suspension lever), body bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer 2 pieces, the fastening brackets of the stabilizer to the body 2 pieces. Immediately it is worth saying that stabilizer racks and natural sleeves (gum) of these racks on Daewoo Lanos cars (Daewoo Lanos) and Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia) - the same. What you can not say about body sleeves (they are also called pillows) stabilizer. On the Daewo Nexia bushings of the stabilizer is significantly less than on Lanos. Plus, to this - stabilizer bushings on cars Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Sens (Daewo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos) go two types - with lamella (new sample) and smooth (old sample). We look at the photos 2, 3 and 4. This should be remembered. And before moving on the car market, it will not be superfluous to look at the car and determine which bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer you should buy. In principle, the inner diameter of these stub bushings is the same and they are interchangeable, but only with fastening brackets))) (Photo 5). Yes, stabilizer brackets are also not eternal, burst regularly. Approximately as in the photo 6. And in this case, the metal cladding is joined to the mop "in the chassis". So still in the bushings (pillows) stabilizer wanted to say ... And, here! In the car market, the engineering bushings of the stabilizer appeared on sale. True, so far only in one embodiment is smooth. With strong wear of the stabilizer (yes, it happens, special if the machine ran 300,000 km in taxi mode;)) will be very useful. We look at the photo 7. Well, in addition, the photo 8 is a rather noticeable wear of the bushing (pillows) of the stabilizer)))).

So a few more words stabilizer stands. Rack Stabilizer Transverse Stability of the Front Pendant Car Daewoo Lanos (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos) consists of: four rubber sleeves (1), four metal supports (2), spacer sleeve (3), bolts (4) and nuts (5). Photo 9. All parts of the rack with time are strongly wearing. And washers, and spacer sleeve, and naturally rubber bushings. I have already spoke about the pruring nut of the stabilizer rack, plus I can also add an accurate spacer shoe to the bolt and the only way Combating this problem - Bulgarian. So, taking into account all the above, you can advise to buy a rack entirely. But, remembering the difficult financial situation in the country and the desire of any person in a similar situation to spend as much money as possible. You can try to do only to the replacement of rubber bushings - the set to two sides consists of 8 pieces and of course it will cost five times cheaper than racks assembled. True, before making a decision, it is worth at least try to promote the rack - clean the thread, shed it with oil or VD-40 and after that start acting. If it goes, the nut is spinning and the bolt turns in the spacer sleeve, and not with it, then the purchase of the rubber sleeves only is your option (photo 10). If not, the nut is lined up, the bolt is caught, the stubborn washers are noticeably sold, then the right decision is to buy the poles of the whole (photo 11). Something like this...

And on choosing the brand of the manufacturer of spare parts. According to the front stub stands, you can safely recommend - FEBI, RUVILLE, ANAM, CRB (factory China, very good quality). On the bushings (pillows) stabilizer - CRB, Gumex (Rubber Quality Excellent), FSO.

Seamlessly, go to the description of the replacement of the bushings (rubber) stabilizer of the transverse stability of the front suspension on Daewoo Lanos vehicles (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos):

1. If we decided to replace only the racks of the stabilizer or sleeves, then the observation pit or the lift you do not need. It is enough to install the car on a flat pad, put on the handbrake and speed, release the wheel bolts, raise the jack as the necessary direction, unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel. And here it is a rack of the stabilizer! As I said, be sure to clean the thread of the bolt from the dirt and processed its VD-40, brake fluid, butter and try to unscrew the nut. To do this, you will need two keys to 13. At least one end, and the second is cape. Approximately as in photo 12. Or using two elongated head (photo 13). If you cannot unscrew, and the rack bought the whole, but you can not suffer and take a grinder or hacksaw. If there are no racks in stock, then we continue to fight stubbornly.

When the stabilizer stand or rack is promoted, cut and removed, you can up and down to shake the stub bar. If it is free to hang out, knock, then this is a faithful sign of worn out body sleeves (pillows) of the stabilizer. And they, if not immediately, will soon have to change.

So, if you decide to restrict ourselves to the replacement of racks or their sleeves, you can be taken for installing new parts. If it is planned to replace the bushings (pillows) of the stabilizer, then the racks are not in a hurry and read item number 3.

2. On installing stabilizer racks. There is nothing complicated here, but there is a small nuance. How to make a stabilizer rack set? I do this, according to the instructions shown in the repair book - " Rubber bushings are located with protrusions to each other, and stubborn washers with protrusions to rubber bushes "Option is the first one in the photo 14. Some of these stubborn washers put on the contrary. They are so better. I will not argue. Serious violations in the assembly I do not see. Just like a significant reason for discussions on this topic. But, I do it, as recommended.

Before installing the rack bolt should be lubricated. The rack is soaked in the "car on wheels" position until the moment when the distance between the stubborn washers will not be equal to 38 mm (Photo 15). Make it on the observation pit when the car stands on the wheels, is not difficult. But, if there is no such possibility, then you will come with the second jack to clamp the lever up (photo 16). Symit the position of the "car on wheels" and then tighten the rack nut, observing the required distance between the washers.

3. With body bushings (pillows) stabilizer all a bit more complicated. We heat the car to the observation pit if there is protection below motor compartment, then you will have to remove it. Next, we spin the stabilizer racks (read item No. 1). You can, of course, do not spin the racks. But, then the stabilizer will be clamped and stretched, which will create problems when installing bushings, brackets and fastening bolts.

We are taken for the fastening bolts of the stabilizer bushings. On the right side, this will make it much easier (photo 17). But with the left, access to these bolts will be difficult. For the aid will come ratchet + extension + cardan + head for 14. Here, as in the photo 18. Without this tool, work will take more time and strength. In turn on each side, we unscrew the bolts, remove the brackets and change the stabilizer bushings. We establish the brackets, bent the fastening bolts and spin them, but do not drag completely. The final tightening of the bolts of the stabilizer pillows should be made only after the final tightening of the stabilizer racks (read item 2).

Look like that's it! Somehow this is the replacement of the bushings (rubber) stabilizer of the transverse stability of the front suspension on Daewoo Lanos cars (Daewoo Lanos), Daewoo Nexia (Daewoo Nexia), Daewoo Sens (Daewo Sens), Chevrolet Lanos (Chevrolet Lanos). I hope that I explained everything clearly and did not touch you))).

When using an article or photographs an active direct hyperlink to the website www.!

Suspension of any car is always the first to hit road irregularities. Depending on the design and settings, the suspension nodes are intended for the maximum efficient damage to the drum loads from the road surface irregularities, as well as to ensure the controllability and stability of the car at high speeds when turning turns, as well as with a sharp change in the trajectory of the movement ("Snake" ). And on how much the suspension is workable, not only the comfort, but also the safety of the driver and passengers depends. Each of the suspension elements performs its role. The troughs and levers support the wheel in a given plane, providing unhindered rotation in two planes (when turned).

Principle of operation of stabilizers

Springs provide elasticity and return of suspension elements to its original state, and shock absorbers - smoothness of the stroke and quenching of the elastic oscillations of the body. At the same time, even the impeccable work of the listed elements to ensure safe movement is not enough. If you hang a car on the lift or, except for levers, springs and shock absorbers on any modern light car, You can see another element - a transverse stability stabilizer. In the suspension front Bridge The stabilizer is a curved lever, which is fixed with one shoulder to the wheel node, to the other - to the subframe. Fastenings are not tough, with the possibility of moving along the axis in the same plane.

The principle of operation of the stabilizer is to redistribute the weight of the body of the car by wheels during its roll. For example, when passing turns with a small radius or with a sharp change in the trajectory of motion. In a wide varied front suspension of the Mac - Fersson type, a transverse stability stabilizer is a torsion lever working on twisting. This lever has a rigid connection with a body or subframe. The suspension efforts are transmitted to it using additional levers, hinged connected to the suspension. Such a simple device can prevent strong car roll (and accordingly, its tipping), while maintaining a direct trajectory of movement.

In the rear axle suspension, the transverse stability stabilizer is usually installed on cars having four-wheel drive All wheels. On many rear-wheel drive models of vehicles with a solid beam of the rear axle, the role of the stabilizer performs a reactive rod (Panar traction). Some all-wheel drive models Japanese production of past years (Toyota Sprinter Carib, Land Cruiser. 80, etc.), along with Panar, equipped with a stabilizer - a curved burden passing through the entire beam of the rear axle and associated through short levers with body elements or frame. The principle of the rear stabilizer is similar to the principle of operation of the front: Reducing the tipping point of the body during its roll.

Signs of the fault of the stabilizer bushings

To clean noise and vibrations transmitted from the soup, all connections are attached through elastic elements. It is not an exception and stabilizer nodes that are attached to the body through metal sleeves pressed into rubber. As a result of a set of factors: the poor condition of the road surface, the use of aggressive reagents, driving style, etc., elastic elements of the stabilizer are destroyed. As a result, in the work of the transverse stability stabilizer, defects are observed, which manifest themselves over time on increasing.

The first harbingers of the need to replace bushings serve. Unlike shock absorbers' knocks, not only when driving road irregularities, but also when turning turns with a small radius on the level road covering. They are due to the appearance of a backlash in the compounds of the stabilizer levers as a result of wear of the sleeves. If this does not attach importance, then later "symptoms" can increase.

Ravating pendant knocks will increase and become accompanying any movement of suspension elements, as a result of further cracking and deformation of rubber sleeves. Along with this, the car will be strongly crighted in turns, the body will be swinging along the transverse axis (with strong wear of the sleeves on both wheels, or when the stabilizer beam breaks). In some cases, the steering wheel begins to "peel". The car loses the severity of the control, becomes roll. Perhaps "lying" and inside the faulty suspension element not only when braking, but also when trying to change the strip and trajectory of movement. Other extraneous noises and vibration may appear in the suspension. Usually, most manufacturers recommend replacing bushings after 30 - 40 thousand mileage kilometers. But the surest signal to the replacement of the stabilizer bushings - the rattles and knocks when turning and the brunette of the body.

Suspension inspection

Before inspecting, it is desirable to make a sink and cleaning of all suspension elements, as well as their connections. With visual inspection of all elastic suspension elements, it is easy to detect damaged detail. If the sleeve is worn or damaged - it is noticeable to rubbing and cracks, called in the environment of professional carmakes for characteristic patterns that form rubber elements during cracking. Loss of elasticity, "crying" rubber - is also a faithful sign for the upcoming replacement. If for any reason (the absence of a lift, observation pit or the nearest one hundred) inspect the stabilizer bushings, it is possible to determine the degree of wear by the presence of stuffs. It is enough to rest on your hands in the upper part of the roof (central rack) and shower a car from side to side. The presence of funks, creaks and their localization at the bottom of the suspension can serve as an indirect indication to replace elastic sleeves.

For a more detailed inspection, it is necessary to hang the car on the lift, or drive it to the overpack or the observation pit. To determine the status of the elements of the transverse stability stabilizer, it is necessary to shake the connection locations of all suspension levers using a score or mounting blade. To do this, it is necessary to rely on the mounting blade in the place of attachment to the body, without damaging protective coating And with slightly swaying alternately press on all the stabilizer fastenings. If with such a manipulation in at least one connection there is a significant backlash, or vice versa - the loss of elasticity - it means it is already done! It remains only to replace the worn sleeve.

Video - how to replace the stabilizer bushings on the VAZ

How to change the stabilizer bushings

To replace the rubber front stabilizer's rubber bushings with minimal time loss and smaller effort, all work is not better made on the lift or on the jack, when all the wheels of the car are hung, and on the observation pit with the use of jack, supports or several jacks. Before replacing worn items of the stabilizer for convenience, the car is first postned on a lift or jack. After hanging and reliable fastening to access the parts of the stabilizer, the wheel (wheels on one axis), fenders and crankcase protection are removed. After that weaken the fastenings of the stabilizer, including the mounting brackets to the body or subframe.

If the threaded connections are not somewhat due to oxides or severe contamination, to avoid breaking the faces or cutting the bolts, they must be treated special fluidfacilitating unscrewing. Before the procedure for weakening fasteners, it is necessary to lift the lower lever to the jack or put the focus. When replacing the sleeves in the suspension of both wheels (which is desirable), it is necessary to raise the jack or put the stops on the axis of the front wheels.

This procedure is necessary to remove the load from the stabilizer beam for easier replacement of the sleeves. After all these conditions are made, you can remove fasteners from the bracket and pressing the sleeve with the subsequent replacement to the new one. On most models of car bushings, the stabilizer are completed. This is done for the convenience of installing them. Repair kits stabilizers are made of rubber or polyurethane.

In the original repair kits there is always the required amount consistant lubricantwhich it is necessary to lubricate the inner surface of the sleeves before replacing. The assembly of all the stabilizer nodes and other vehicles are made in reverse sequence. For more long time Bus services, it is necessary to produce a periodic cleansing of the stabilizer brackets from sand and road dirt.

As is known, the transverse stability stabilizer avoids the limit loads on separate parts of the chassis. If simply, the stability of the car on the road directly depends on his work, also the stabilizer does not allow the body strongly roll into turns. This combines the stabilizer with other details through.

Also, to reduce the noise and absorption of vibrations, which occur during the work of the stabilizer, the design of the stabilizer is used in the design (made of rubber and in everyday life are called stabilizer gum). Next, we will look at what the stabilizer bushing is, as it works and works, as well as to check the stabilizer bushings and how the sleeve is replaced.

Read in this article

Stabilizer bushings front and building: what you need to know

First of all, the stabilizer bushing is a detail cast from rubber or polyurethane. As a rule, for different cars, the form is often very similar. It should also be noted that to improve the resource and reliability of the stub bushings have grooves and tides. These refinement allowed to protect the bushings from mechanical damage.

The product is obtained simple, but its functions are sufficiently important. Not only comfort depends on the state of the sleeves, but also the quality of the stabilizer itself. For this reason, it should be borne in mind that any defects of the bushings are grounds for their replacement.

In other words, if during the verification process it was revealed that the rear stabilizer sleeve or front stabilizer sleeve was damaged, deformed or destroyed, it is necessary to change them. Replacement of sleeves transverse stabilizer Showing and in the case when even small cracks are visible or a clear change in rubber properties is noted.

As a rule, the replacement is required every 30-40 thousand km. Run or 5-6 years. At the same time, experts recommend changing all the sleeves for one approach, that is, even if only one element has failed. When inspected, it is important to clean the sleeves from the dirt so as not to miss defects and increase the service life of the part if the replacement is currently not required.

Also, the replacement is needed when such signs are manifested:

the steering wheel of the bearer with the passage of turns, a beating appeared on the steering wheel;
the body is strongly cubed, clips, tapping, violets are heard during inclons;
suspension vibrates, surveillance noises
there was an exploration of a car when driving in a straight line;
a noticeable loss of stability, the car does not hold the road;

Of course, these signs are only indirect, as you can pass the car or beat the steering wheel for other reasons (for example, a banal situation when there is a place), but the stabilizer bushings should be checked. If after their replacement, the signs of faults did not disappear, then there is an in-depth diagnostics of the chassis.

Also note that the creak of the stabilizer bushings is although it is not an acute and dangerous problem, but strongly worsens the complex of operation of the vehicle. For this reason, the replacement of the sleeves is also practiced if the stabilizer bushings fasten.

How to replace stabilizer bushings

So, at the initial stage it is important to understand, on which axis it is necessary to replace (rear stabilizer sleeves or front stabilizer bushings). At the same time, in practice, more often need to replace the front stub bushing, so we will stop in more detail.

First of all, the replacement of the front stabilizer bushings on different models may differ slightly, but the overall replacement procedure is often similar and is not difficult. The main thing is to prepare the necessary tools.

The general procedure of action, within which the front stabilizer bushings are replaced:

drive the car to the pit or on the lift;
remove the wheels from the car;
unscrew the attachments of the racks to the stabilizer;
disconnect the racks and stabilizer;
check the stabilizer rack bushings and the Stub Rack itself (replace if necessary);
weaken the rear bracket bolts holding the sleeve, then unscrew the front;
after removing the old sleeves, it is necessary to remove the dirt in the installation places of new sleeves;
applying a soap solution or silicone spray, you need to smear the bushings from the inside;
put new bushings and harvest in reverse order;

We add that the replacement of the rear stabilizer bushings is not particularly different from the replacement of the front, but the front stabilizer sleeve changes somewhat more complicated, as it is more complicated by design. In fact, if you managed to change the front sleeves, there will be no problems with the rear sleeves.

By the way, as for the squeaks of the sleeves, mentioned above, usually the sleeves will creak in winter in the cold or in hot dry weather. The reason is the low cost of the material from which the bushings or features of the car design are made. Also tires can harden in the cold, loses elasticity and creak. Another creak points to the critical wear of the bush.

Please note, in some cases, the owners are trying to get rid of creaks by lubricating the stabilizer bushings. So, if you need replacing the stabilizer bush due to wear of rubber, then no lubricants will help, as the item is deformed.

If the replacement of the stabilizer gum was recently produced and they good condition, then you can count on the temporary effect after lubrication. It is important to understand that the lubricant contributes to the sticking of dirt and sand on the sleeve. Of course, the abrasive particles reduce the bushow resource.

It should also be noted that the bushings should firmly crimizer. If the connection is not so reliable, the stabilizer may begin to scroll, the creak in this case is only enhanced.

The main thing is not to use aggressive lubricant to rubber, as they destroy the bushings. We also note that some more major automakers produce stabilizer bushings with anthers who protect the inner surface of the sleeves from dirt, dust, water, etc. If you can buy something similar to your car, it is strongly recommended to stop at such versions, even if they are more expensive.

Let's summarize

As you can see, the bushing of the rear stabilizer or the front stabilizer bushing is simple element both in terms of design and in terms of replacement. At the same time, the stabilizer rack bushing and the stabilizer bushing are different, so it is important not to confuse these items when selecting the necessary spare parts.

Finally, we note that the front or rear bushings of the stabilizer with all its simplicity perform important functions, allowing the stabilizer normally and quickly work, effectively extinguish rolls and oscillations. In turn, it allows you to improve comfort, as well as improve the stability and control of the car, thereby increasing safety during the operation of the vehicle.

1. Where are the gum or stabilizer bushings?

If the stabilizer gum is worn out and the backlash has been formed in them, you will tell you a clearly pronounced sound that manifests itself during operation. car Engine (and to be more accurate, then with each turn). It is especially noticeable, it is manifested when the car drives one wheel to a small hill or accidentally falls into the pit. Then the driver can hear a very strong sound from the contact of the metal parts, between which there is no rubber gasket.

On the usual car stabilizer there are four rubber bushings. Find them on this mechanism is not difficult. Two of them can be very easy to find and remove: they are under fastening brackets that form something like a cover or "house" for them. Two more should be sought in metal holders.

The main function that the stabilizer gum is performed is the execution of the role of elastic gasket between the barbell and the fastening elements of the stabilizer. Thanks to them, the level of vibrations is reduced, oscillations arising during movement are softened. In addition, the presence of sleeves helps extend the service life of the stabilizer bar, and also make it completely silent. It is for this reason that it is very important that all bushings are working and could fully fulfill the "responsibilities" entrusted to them.

As a result of the wear of rubber bushings, the details of the stabilizer get the opportunity to carry out practically free move. If the body during the movement is a bit bent and its transverse displacement is obtained, the stabilizer begins to knock. In this case, you will most likely have to replace the light grapple sleeves that are under the shelter of the fastener brackets. These rubber bands are most often wearing, in connection with which there is a need to replace them.

2. What is needed to replace worn car stabilizer bushings?

Tools for the implementation of such work will be needed quite a bit, but they need to prepare them in advance so that during the work they were all at hand. So you will need:

1. Caid key (10 and 13).

2. The end heads (will be suitable for 13 and at 14, but it is best if the head on 13 is extended).

3. Ratchet key.

4. Extension.

5. Schunzirkul (instead you can use a conventional ruler).

6. Cardan.

7. Jack.

But it should be immediately noted that not in all cases it is possible to do the presence of only such a simple set of tools. The fact is that in the process of replacing rubber sleeves, you will definitely have to unscrew the mounting nuts of the stabilizer racks. Here you can comprehend one very unpleasant discovery: the nuts are bought to the body of the part and are not amenable to the usual key. In such a situation, the case can reach the fact that you will have to use a grinder or hacksaw. After that, together with the replacement of the stabilizer gum, you will also need new racks of this part.

And about what you need. With it, you will need to raise the car to remove the wheels from it and get free access to the stabilizer and its bushing. He may also need if, during the work of the work of the bar, the stabilizer suddenly went to the side, and you can not return it to the right position with a scrap. In such a situation with the help of a jack, you just need to raise the back of the car, after which the rod should be in place.

Well, of course, to replace the stabilizer gum, you need the gum themselves. You can buy them on any car market or in a car shop. However, you should not forget that almost for each car model needed their sleeves that will be perfect for its stabilizer. Therefore, before you go for the purchase of new bushings, it is best to climb under the car and remove the old ones. With them, it is worth going to the store. In this case, you reduce to a minimum, the likelihood of buying too large or too small sleeves.

In addition, the quality of the gum for the stabilizer has no less important. It is known that they can be made from both natural rubber and artificial. Despite the fact that natural has higher indicators of such characteristics as softness and elasticity, still artificial rubber is considered more durable.

3. How to change the gum of the stabilizer with your own hands?

Well, if everything is ready, we can proceed to the direct implementation of our task - replacing the stabilizer gum. It is very simple to make it, but before starting work it is recommended to install the car in such a way that all its wheels are on the same level. Thanks to this, the rod of the stabilizer will be in the desired position. Everything next steps We recommend to execute according to the instructions below:

1. Fix the car in a fixed position - raise the handbrake and block the movement of the wheels.

2. Remove the front wheels from the car, having previously lifted the car with the help of a jack. Under the right arch front wheel You will also need to remove the rear panel designed to protect the engine. To perform this action, you will need a key to 10, with which you can unscrew the two fasteners.

3. With a special lubricant (it is better to take a special WD-40 aerosol) processing the fastening bolts with the left and right side, with which the stabilizer clamps are attached. It is also necessary to process its fastening racks.

4. We are fastened, with which the stabilizer racks are recorded. To do this, you will need to find four bolts and unscrew them with a suitable key. In the event that you cannot reach the bolts, use the end heads. If they still do not succumb - it will have to take for a grinder or a file. As a result, you must completely remove both racks of the car stabilizer.

5. Under the left side of the car's subframe, you need to install a jack. The distance from the Domkrat to its back should not exceed 20 cm. After that, we raise the jack of the car body. In the event that a hydraulic jack is used, it is necessary to put a dense metal plate under its resistant part. Thanks to this, you will be able to avoid damage to the subframe.

6. Using the key, we will unscrew the rear bolt to which the subframe is attached. Since the car is in a raised position, it will be very simple.

7. We let go of the jack so that the car falls on the same level as if he stood on the wheel. At the same time, the subframe should fall at a distance within 1 cm from the body.

8. In this space between the body and subframe, it is necessary to insert the trim of the pipe, pressing on which you can press the subframe from the car body. When you manage to zoom in this clearance, insert the end head into it. But act very carefully, since the subframe can jump at any time and literally cut your fingers. Therefore, the head must be layered with pliers.

9. We unscrew the bolts that fasten the clamp of the stabilizer, having previously sprinkled with the WD-40 aerosol thread. You need to unscrew the screws very carefully, in no case should you apply too much effort to them so as not to damage other details.

10. After the fastening bolts are removed, you can remove the claw claw, and then the sleeve itself, which is unusable for further operation.

11. We set a new one to the place of the old bushings, make sure that the incision on it is directed back. Very often, with the process of installing a new sleeve, it is connected with the fact that it does not fit on absolutely dry details. In such a situation, experienced motorists recommend using a warm soap solution.

12. By installing the sleeve, it must be pushed into a regular place, that is, to install the same as the old one was installed.

13. We dress on the sleeve of the clamp, it should well hold even without fastening elements.

14. We take the bolts, which is fastened to the clamp, and bent them first with your fingers, and then you are already touching them until you stop using a wrench. Make sure that all bolts are twisted evenly.

15. Very often it happens that the automotive stabilizer breaks the limiter. In this case, it is necessary to install the clamp from the metal, close by pressing it to the plastic ring. Otherwise, when twisting the fasteners, you risk damageing the clamp.

16. Using pliers, it is necessary to remove the head that you installed between the subframe and the car body. Back to plant a subframe bolts, the jack can be already or needed.

17. We install the estate in the old place, screw them with bolts. If during the dismantling process you had to cut the noise racks, then this item will also have to be replaced with a new one.

18. All threaded parts need to be treated with a special graphite lubricant. It is recommended to make it even before installing fasteners, which will prevent the likelihood of bolts.

19. Complete the wheel installation process.

As you were able to make sure, the replacement of the stabilizer gum can also be at home even without the help of a partner. The only thing you should not forget in no case are it safety. Do not forget that the weight of the car can apply you very serious injuries, so check the jack performance in advance and perform all operations with great care.