The chapter is partially given for familiarization. Illustrations of knowingly impaired quality.
general characteristics
On the car installed one-piece dry adhesion with a central diaphragm pressure spring and hydraulic clutch drive. There are four damping springs on the driven disk. The slave disk is installed on the slots of the gearbox leading shaft.
Pressure drive disc is installed on the flywheel. The diaphragm pressure spring is installed in such a way that when the pedal is released, the diaphragm spring presses the pressure driven drive to the slave. When pressing the clutch pedal, the release bearing presses on the inside of the diaphragm pressure spring, while the spring, bends, removes the pressure drive disc from the slave.
Fig. 5.2. Details of the clutch hydraulic crust: 1 - clutch cylinder; 2 - the main cylinder of the clutch; 3 - Bracket fastening vacuum amplifier 4 - Bracket with a clutch pedal; 5 - clutch drive hose.
Removal of air from hydraulic
Attention! From the painted surface, you must remove the working fluid. If the clutch is the air, it must be removed. The level of fluid should be regularly checked and, if necessary, add liquid.1. Add the working fluid to the hydraulic tank.
2. Connect the hose hose and place the other end of the hose into the container with the working fluid.
3. Rush the air from the hydraulic line:
- Slowly press the clutch pedal;
- not letting the clutch pedal, unscrew the bolt of pumping until the fluid starts, then tighten the bolt again;
- Continue the aforementioned procedure until air bubbles disappear from the liquid.
Clutch pedal
Check and adjustment of clutch pedals1. Check the height of the pedal position. The height of the pedal over the floor is 160 - 180 mm. Release the nut and rotate the bolt until the pedal is located at the required height, then tighten the nut.
2. Check the free passage of pedals and pusher gap. The free stroke of the clutch pedal is to press the pedal until you feel resistance. Free move should be 5 - 15 mm. Pusher's gap - slightly click on the pedal until you feel easy resistance. Pusher gap: 1 - 5 mm.
3. Adjust the free passage of the pedal and the pusher gap if necessary:
- unscrew the nut and turn the pusher until the pedal move and the pusher gap will not be normal;
- Tighten the nut;
- Adjust the free pedal stroke and check the height of the pedal.
4. Check the clutch operation:
- Turn on the parking brake and turn the wheels;
- Start the engine, it should work at idle;
- without pressing the clutch pedal, slowly put the lever on the transmission of the reverse.
- Slowly press the clutch pedal and measure the move from the moment the noise is disappeared to the OTA. With a bandage move: 25 mm or more. If the course does not respond norm, you need to check the following:
1. Check the height of the pedal location.
2. Check the pusher gap and the free passage.
3. Remove the air from the clutch hydraulic.
4. Check the condition of the clutch disks.
Hydraulic drive
Chief Cylinder ClutchDisconnecting the main cylinder
1. Remove the working fluid from the drive.
2. Disconnect the drive hose.
3. Disconnect the main cylinder pusher from the clutch pedal.
4. Unscrew the nut, disconnect the clutch pedal from the main cylinder and remove it.
Disassembly of the main cylinder
1. Remove the hose
2. Remove the pusher, protective case and springs sealing ring.
3. Remove the piston.
Use compressed air to clean the disassembled parts.
1. Check if there is no scratches or rust on the details of the cylinder, if available, it is necessary to clean or replace the pump.
2. Check the piston and piston cuff for wear, scratches, cracks or burrs.
3. Check the pusher for wear or damage.
Assembling the main cylinder
1. Lubricate both sides of the piston cuffs with a clutch hydraulic fluid.
2. Insert the piston into the main cylinder.
3. Secure the pusher with a sealing ring.
Installing the main cylinder
1. Insert the lock of the main cylinder into the clutch pedal and tighten the nut with an increase in 7.8 N · m. Tighten the nuts with a force of 11 ± 1 N · m on two bolts, which are located on the bracket of the vacuum amplifier attachment and install the main clutch cylinder on the vacuum amplifier attachment bracket;
2. Connect the hose.
3. Remove the air from the hydraulic drive and adjust the height of the clutch pedal.
The coupling service life on Chery Amulet is from 30 to 50 thousand runs depending on the quality of the cable itself and the accuracy of the driver. No less important is the correct installation and adjustment of the cable, as well as the choice of the correct manufacturer. How it is properly and quickly changed the Cherie Amulet Drive Drive Cable, how to adjust, we open all the subtleties right now.
Each self-respecting driver has a habit of carrying a spare clutch cable in the trunk. This is not a paranoia, this is a reality with which all owners of Chery Amulet and other budget machines with a mechanical cable drive of the clutch mechanism are faced. The opening on the road away from civilization could not end too optimistic. Therefore, any cable in the reserve should still be. The problems are that for amulet A15 Ford cable is not suitable. Also do not fit into the configuration of the cable from the second golf, on the platform of which the amulet is built.
Pay attention to how the original cable looks
"> Quality boxes and seals"> Appropriate leather length">Judging by the reviews of the owners, they prefer the original CHERY clutch cable with the catalog number A11-1602040. . Its price fluctuates depending on the greed of the seller and can be from 120 to 450 hryvnia (from 4 to 15 dollars). Price plug is solid, but the cable is one. There are analogues. In terms of quality, they are no worse than the original, although the nameless cables do not need to buy at all. There are several options on store shelves:
- Klm AutoParts. , PRC, catalog number A11-1602040Av ;
- from the factory installed a cable Chery A11-1602040ab-1 And in stores, he is the most expensive, while the real manufacturer is not advertised;
- Glober , Catalogue number 83-4129 .
For replacement can be useful yet latch Cable with articula A11-1602103. and rubber sleeve (clutch cable damper) A11-1602101 In the event that their wear is detected.
Symptoms Cane Cane Cable Fault
The main and most unpleasant reason for replacing the cable is a break. However, it always affects the behavior of the car in an even location of the cliffs. Here are just a few signs that the clutch cable is preparing to resign:
- clutch does not turn off until the end leads In this case, it is possible that the reason is just in the cable, since any jamming of the metal cable in the casing due to the cliff of at least one vein, will lead to such symptoms;
- clutch discover , not to the end turns on, this also you can also blame the condition of the metal cable, which is too tightly moved in the casing, the cause of the core or the ignition can be a consequence of incorrect installation.
The reason for the yield of the cable is broken the casing ...
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... and lack of lubricant under corrugationsIn addition, the improper adjustment of the free stroke of the clutch pedal also leads to the incorrect operation of the entire mechanism. Pulling with replacement is clearly not worth it as we substitute not only our nerves and safety, but also quite expensive slave disk, frost bearing, clutch basket, as well as gears and synchronizers Gearbox. And the replacement will take no more than 15 minutes with bare hands.
How to change CHERY Amulet clutch cable
No tools are needed to replace. All work can be done literally bare hands, and very quickly. Enough to follow the step-by-step instructions and do not forget to miss a new cable.
"Before installing a new clutch cable, be sure to sweat the casing fresh engine oil, and under the corrugation cable stuff consistent lubricant. It will save us from creak and will increase the rope resource at least one and a half times. "
The cable replacement technique is as follows:
1. Raise the clutch shutdown lever and remove the metal retainer."> ">
2. Take the cable from the engagement with the lever. ">
3. Take the cable from the support on the CAT Carter. ">
4. Remove the rubber damper and inspect it. 5. If necessary, replace."> 6. In the cabin we will remove the cable with the pedal lever from the engagement.">
After that, you can safely remove the cable and insert a new one, without forgetting it to lubricate it. Pay attention to the state of the rubber damper. It is often wearing, which leads to a skeleton of the casing and the energousness of it, and this is fraught with the hit of dust, water and dirt under the cable shell. It remains to adjust the free stroke of the clutch pedal.
How to adjust the free course of clutch pedals on Cherie Amulet
For checking and adjusting the free stroke of the clutch pedal, we use only two horned keys: 18 and 19. After installing a new cable, we must adjust the adjustment, since the clutch can be stopped or conducting. The nominal values \u200b\u200bof the free stroke of the clutch lever are in the range from two to three mm. We do this:
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1. Raise the clutch lever and check the free move. Nominal not more than 3 mm. 2. Rimming the cable corrugation, shifting it up the housing.">
Features of the clutch design
Chery Amulet installed dry single-disc combustion with a central diaphragm spring.
Purpose disk 1 (Fig. 6.1) is mounted in a steel-cast casing 3 attached by six bolts to the crankshaft of the engine.
The slave disk 1 (Fig.6.2) is mounted on the slots of the primary shaft of the gearbox and clamp the diaphragm spring 2 (see Fig. 6.1) between the flywheel 2 (see Fig. 6.2) attached to nine bolts to the casing 3 (see Fig. 6.1 ) Clutch, and push disk 1.
Cable clutch shutdown drive.
On the free shoulder of the lever 3 (Fig. 6.3) of the clutch shutdown affects the cable 1 drive ...
The second end of which is fixed on the lever of the clutch pedal. The lever 3 turns the fork installed in the gearbox, which, in turn, moves through the clutch shutdown bearing ...
The clutch shutdown rod (shown in the photo of the arrow) passing inside the hollow primary shaft of the gearbox.
The clutch shutdown rod affects the backbone (shown in the photo of the arrow when the flywheel removed for clarity and the slave clutch disk), fixed by the fixing spring on the petals of the pressure diaphragm spring.
To compensate for the wear of the clutch disk linings and an increase in the drive cable length due to its pulling into operation, the length of the cable shell of the adjusting sleeve 2 is adjusted (see Fig. 6.3) installed on the lower end of the cable.
Fig. 6.1. Clutch casing with push disc: 1-pressure disk; 2-diaphragm spring; 3-clutch
Fig. 6.2. Slave clutch disc with flywheel: 1-slave disk; 2-flywheel
Fig. 6.3. Clutch shutdown drive: 1-cable clutch shutdown drive; 2-adjusting cable tip bush; 3-lever clutch shutdown
Useful advice
In order for the clutch to serve a long time and trouble-free, do not hold the foot on the pedal of clutch. This harmful habit is often acquired during driving training in driving schools from fear do not have time to turn off the clutch during the vehicle stop. In addition to the rapid fatigue,
located all the time over the pedal, the clutch turns out to be at least a bit, but squeezed, and the slave disk is sinking and wear out. For the same reason, we do not recommend holding a clutch for a long time (for example, in traffic jams).
If you do not have to go right away, it is better to turn on the neutral position of the gearbox and release the pedal.
The clutch slip can be easily determined using a tachometer. If during the movement with a sharp press on the pedal of the accelerator, the turns grow sharply, and then a little fall and the car begins to accelerate, the clutch requires repair.
The clutch disk slip does not allow the car to operate, but allows you to get to the place of repair. It must be said about the somewhat unusual design of the clutch of this car.
It is screwed directly to the engine crankshaft (the flywheel is usually fastened), the pressure disk is mounted inside on it in the form of a spring diaphragm with a spa in the center.
He clamped between the basket and flywheel fixed on the basket. The disk splay (when the clutch pedal survival) presses the rod, the diaphragm straightens and its edges affect the petals of the basket - the clutch disc is free.
The rod passes through the hollow primary shaft, and from the end of the box rests In the radially stubborn bearing. It is on this bearing that the clutch shutdown lever affects.
In fact, this is not a Chinese invention - the design of the clutch and boxes from the 80s are widely used by Engineers VW Audi Group.
When replacing the worn clutch disk, it is recommended to change the thrust bearing and its rod for high-quality clutch operation.
1. First, disconnect, freeing the lock plate.
2. Remove the wire connector from the reverse sensor
3. Disconnect and remove the crankshaft position sensor.
4.
5. And remove it by disconnecting the mass.
6. Disconnect two thrust of the Kulisi drive Shift.
8. Now unscrew the machine mounting nut on the hub and remove the wheelsAfter putting the car to the supports.
9. Unscrew the three bolts of the ball support And disconnect it from the lever.
10. Disconnect the steering craving from the swivel fist Now the drive will easily reach the slot part of the hub.
11. Operations P.8.9,10 repeat, on the other hand.
12. Unscrew the bolt fastening the left gear support bolt.
13. We unscrew the fastening bolts of the cylinder block amplifier and reception tube.
Two under the exhaust manifold ...
... Two bolts under the oil filter.
By revealing three, removing the amplifier.
14. Now should be substituted under the engine reliable support And you can unscrew the front support bracket to the clutch.
15. Unscrew the bolts fastening the box to the engine.
Two bolts from the oily filter side.
Two more boxes.
16. Three bolts free the rear support bracket.
ATTENTION: For clarity, the photo is made with a driven drive. In our case, to replace the clutch, unscrew the drive not necessarily, it is sufficient to remove its slotted part from the hub. This will allow you to push and leave the box in a suspended state without removing it from under the car.
17. Move the gearbox Before the output of the primary shaft.
18. Having access to the flywheel (this is not a basket!), we unscrew the bolts of its attachment to the basket. ATTENTION: All bolts have a non-standard 9 mm head.
You should carefully inspect the flywheel - The surface on which the clutch disc should be perfectly smooth and the gear of the crown without damage. If necessary, replace the flywheel.
The surface of the clutch basket should be the same smooth (fastened to the crankshaft). If there is damage to the basket replace.
The arrow shows the spring that you want to remove to access the Basket Fastening Bolts to the flywheel (if you change).
19. Install a new clutch disc Speaking part of the hub outside and thoroughly exhibit it in the center. Attention: flywheel and basket are balancing together And change their position relative to the crankshaft is not allowed. For the correct assembly on the flywheel there are pins that need to be combined with a slot in the basket or using early tags.
20. Collect everything in reverse orderBy observing the torque of the threaded connections.
21. Before installing the wheels will be convenient replace thrust bearing And his rod.
22. From the end of the box neatly flexing the edge and remove the cover. With its significant deformation, it is possible to establish a new one.
23. We take out the thrust bearing with a magnet.
24. Remove the rod of the stubborn bearing.
25. Collect in reverse sequenceBy establishing new spare parts.
26. Adjust the clutch with a nut and sleeve sleeve.
27. After a small run, once again adjust the clutch - the free course of the lever must be 2-3 mm.
Move the lever until the moment of considerable resistance is free.
Attention: gearbox is sufficient heavyAnd the nuts of the drives on the hub of the wheels are tightened to a considerable moment so work is recommended to be carried out with an assistant.
Chery Amulet installed dry single-disc combustion with a central diaphragm spring.
Purpose disk 1 (Fig. 6.1) is mounted in a steel-cast casing 3 attached by six bolts to the crankshaft of the engine.
The slave disk 1 (Fig. 6.2) is mounted on the slots of the primary shaft of the gearbox and clamp the diaphragm spring 2 (see Fig. 6.1) between the flywheel 2 (see Fig. 6.2) attached to nine bolts to the casing 3 (see Fig. 6.1 ) Clutch, and push disk 1.
Cable clutch shutdown drive. On the free shoulder of the lever 3 (Fig. 6.3) of the clutch shutdown affects the cable 1 drive ...
Fig. 6.1. Clutch casing with pressure disk: 1 - pressure disk; 2 - a diaphragm spring; 3 - clutch casing
Fig. 6.2. Slave clutch disc with flywheel: 1 - slave disk; 2 - flywheel
The second end of which is fixed on the lever of the clutch pedal. The lever 3 turns the fork installed in the gearbox, which, in turn, moves through the clutch shutdown bearing ...
The clutch shutdown rod (shown in the photo of the arrow) passing inside the hollow primary shaft of the gearbox.
The clutch shutdown rod affects the backbone (shown in the photo of the arrow when the flywheel removed for clarity and the slave clutch disk), fixed by the fixing spring on the petals of the pressure diaphragm spring.
Fig. 6.3. Clutch shutdown drive: 1 - clutch shutdown cable; 2 - adjusting cable tip sleeve; 3 - clutch shutdown lever
To compensate for the wear of the clutch disk linings and increasing the drive cable length due to its pulling in operation, adjustment of the cable shell length of the adjusting sleeve 2 is adjusted (see Fig. B.Z) installed at the lower end of the cable (see "Adjusting the clutch drive") .
Useful advice
In order for the clutch to serve a long time and trouble-free, do not hold the foot on the pedal of clutch. This harmful habit is often acquired during driving training in driving schools from fear do not have time to turn off the clutch during the vehicle stop. In addition to the rapid fatigue of the foot all the time over the pedal, the clutch turns out to be at least a bit, but squeezed, and the slave disk runs and wear out. For the same reason, we do not recommend holding a clutch for a long time (for example, in traffic jams). If you do not have to go right away, it is better to turn on the neutral position of the gearbox and release the pedal.
The clutch slip can be easily determined using a tachometer. If during the movement with a sharp press on the pedal of the accelerator, the turns grow sharply, and then a little fall and the car begins to accelerate, the clutch requires repair.
Possible clutch malfunctions, their causes and ways to eliminate
| Cause of malfunction | Remedy |
| Incomplete clutch shutdown (clutch "leads") | |
| Insufficient complete clutch pedal | Adjust the clutch shutdown drive |
| Boxing of the slave disk (elder beating of more than 0.5 mm) | Straighten or replace the disk |
| The hub of the slave disk on the slots of the primary shaft | Clean the slots, rinse White Spirit. When wearing slots, replace the primary shaft or driven disk |
| Dissue or push disc warning | |
| Weakening rivets or breakdown of spicial linings of the slave disk | Replace the lining or driven disk, check the brazing disk |
| Narling of clutch drive cable | Replace cable |
| Incomplete inclusion of adhesion (clutch "dropping") | |
| Increased wear or burning of narrow disk friction linings | Replace friction linings or slave disk assembly |
| Damage or jamming of clutch drive | |
| Jerk | |
| Sweeping of the friction linings of the slave disk, surfaces of the flywheel and pressure disk | Wash the White Spirit thoroughly with grinding surfaces, replace worn or damaged gearbox and engine glands |
| Constressing in the clutch drive | Eliminate the causes causing jamming. Replace damaged details |
| Surface damage or push disc | Replace the pressure disc assembly |
| Increased noise when inclusion of clutch | |
| Breakdown of the damped disc springs | Replace the slave disk assembly |
