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All-wheel drive quad bike created specifically for off-road driving. In the design, knots and aggregates from a great set of equipment are used - from Oka to Mitsubishi.

A little bit about the quad bike:

Width 1550.
Base 1600.
Height by Rulia 1300, on the saddle 900
Clearance 430.
Mass ~ 400 kg
Engine Oka
Reducers on the axes - Mitsubishi RVR
Hubs and fists before and ass - Niva
Drive - Niva + 2108
Pendant before and ass - on a-shaped double levers
Elastic elements in front - torsion, rear - springs
Hydraulic steering wheel - converted from Subaru
Between the axial differential blocked
between the wheeled differential behind the rear is blocked

It should be noted that the device is constantly being finalized and modified.

05 Feb 2009.
yes, the case goes gradually .... it is a pity that all construction takes place in the evenings after work and for 3-4 hours. I am waiting for some turning orders, much slows down, gave an order to the clock from the old place of work, and this is another end of Moscow. He moved to a new job, now looking for nearby Tokarei and other necessary people.

Front view

07 Feb 2009.
pipe F21x4. If the lever with diagonal struts-amplifiers do you think will be weak?

yesterday I drove into the shop at the MS in Ochakov, I remelude (aunt Merila) a pipe for silent blocks - says f32 .... I bought it ... I drove a little bit broken, then I was waiting for a person and then I decided to measure myself, the benefit of the caliper was. In general, there was an internal F35, where she was so. Brought back to the store, gave. I do not know how she Merila was there, or he sacked with the burdens ... That's how it bursto. We will have to go on the market. On Metallo Base Base - half a day will go nafig ...

08 Feb 2009.
Through a bunch of markets today in search of a pipe internal F32. And everywhere as one, only at 35 .... damn due to a meter piece of pipe drags on metal base and stand in queues .... Ouuuu

08 Feb 2009.
2 on the lever, 4 levers in the suspension ... Total 16 pieces.
Tomorrow, if it turns out to break out of work, I will try to rinse on M.S. In Karacharov, there may be the necessary pipe (in the catalogs it seems). Another man in the market said - go to Gazpromovskaya metal base. There are pipes under gas sell, seamsters and fat-beams ..., but where this base is H.Z (he said that they are only two in Moscow, and where there is no ...). Well, I'll go to the tokary.

About Tokarei, damn .... gave last Friday the drawing of the adapter of the Okavarus-flange of the gearbox Mitsubishi RVR ... This Friday jumped to learn how to work .... the guys say the bachers and weldings, and from centering, and from balancing ... Cancer dampers. They say to make a crappy will not ....

15 Feb 2009.
Under your right hand. The question is interesting, but speed is not so big, Max 50km on 4th. Yes, I can still have to touch without any problems (two gearboxes are one in the checkpoint, the second on the wheels). I think that the special shunting knob does not need a pen, but the game with the clutch ... I squeezed the clutch, stopped, turned off the speed ... The first two in general the tractor turns out ....

Well, in general, this is still an open question and I will say honestly I have not fully worked out when it comes to it .... then I will wise ...

On Friday evening gathered the first pendant lever ...

Tomorrow, if I don't forget, I will take a fotik to work ...

27 Feb 2009.

The system works like this:
We have a regular steering - gear, traction ... steering shaft and steering wheel. Take the steering rack, I took from the timeline on the analysis. More precisely, not a rail, but the hydro distributor from it (Rake with Gurom) who removes the collapsible rack), we draw the gear that the rack itself is drift ... and puts the cardanchik there or something else as. I put this crap into the incision of the steering shaft, I have as a cardan to the reducer. Moreover, the connection remains a tight 100%, as well as a regular shaft. About the gur pump and so understandable .... Next, we put on the steering craving or, as I did from the sowing, I welded another ear ... Hydraulic cylinder. One side to the frame, the other to the thrust. I will not write about the hemorrhus with the extinction of the working length, it is in different ways ...

in general, this scheme is often used on trucks, gas 66 for example. Even on the Volga 3110, the first guri did so. By the way, it put the hydraulic cylinder, it costs 300 rubles.

This design is good because the cost of money: 1500r of the rake (you can attach the Volgovsky distributor - it is also 300r, but you will have to search), 500r pump, 300r hydraulic cylinder, hose two to 200r and + turning works - adapters for fittings2-3 pieces rubles 200
c000
about 3000 rubles. Stable UAZ is worth 12000 rubles

At the same time, we have a hydraulicer without changing the structure of the standard system, the claiming steering damper (which is very important for an offroprod with large rollers), a fairly reliable knot due to the refusal of which for further movement it is enough to remove the belt from the pump (so that the pump is not to burn), or the cut oil to merge. ...

On the UAZbook a lot about this GUR is written.

So here you can implement such a scheme by rooting the cylinder to the desired size, for compactness and so that the fluid has time to fill it when the steering wheel is rotated (the steering wheel of the motorcycle type will be) ....

but before that, still ... Build and build ....

This is what set up at the moment ..., the front suspension was completed. It remains elastic elements like a rack to adjust ....
rama strained a little ... Maximum move at the top ... The total turned out to be 290mm, the clearance with Maxim at the bottom it turns out 450mm - on regular UAZ wheels

13 Apr 2009.
bought Uralsk springs assembled with shock absorbers. I installed on the front axle on 1 piece on the wheel. As Svadd removed from Kozlov immediately fell on the "knees", while the springs were arranged until the stop. Put two on the wheel - hold, but when I sit on it with riding and move my weight closer to the steering wheel, it happens almost the same! What this crap is so. At the moment it can not weigh more than 250 kg! Yes, the back is still on the goat, maybe therefore all the weight on the front passes. .... eventually made a torsion front suspension. As a torsion, I used a stabilizer bar from the classics, a little over with it. On one bar on the wheel and the longitudinally they are located. He made adjustment at the height of the suspension and stiffness with the help of a lever and a bolt (like on torsion pendants) - keeps perfectly, the stroke also arrange me! I think it can also make the back. The question is, and do not they burst? The welding place began to Krasnaya, i.e. Welding has no surface calcination .... testing will show. Waiting for Tokar, when the wheel drive shafts will be ready.

May 29, 2009.
the front and rear suspensions are absolutely the same! Even in the rear suspension, I used swivel fists from Niva. I took the drawings of the pendant of the Niva, analyzed them, calculated the length of the levers based on the drawing ..... and protected her. Parts of the front and rear suspension are as unified and interchangeable. On the rear suspension, the gathering is adjustable with a steering wheel, it is attached to the frame. You can stir up, she is like a third lever ... collapse - I regulated ears - silent block fasteners. The drive center and silent are almost on one straight line. The drive extinct at the place. There are all sorts of shoals and so on, which is brought to the knee with welding and grinder.

To date, he graduated from the transmission, finishing the external framework.

Made a hydraulic clutch drive, instead of a cable as on OK, works perfectly and very soft.

there is still a lot of things to do.

But it is already on the wheels.

I tested my animal today. rushing like a tank ... I even managed to go a little :-))) you need to think about the brakes, it is hard to join the pedal. And in general, all Normuul. The suspension works, on the bodies goes well. A little to the hydraulic is used to get used. Box (difer) brewed nafig. A squad in the bridge, it works Khrenovo - I put it forward, and the front in the ass and we will nafig.

19 Aug 2009.
The first trial start was in early July. The motor works fine. Then in the box, the difer was not blocked and with a sharp gas quadric goat and whistled the UAZ Rubber ... It was terrible ... then the difer was turned on, the dof stopped. I even had to plant him in a pile of stones and sand - I didn't want to go ahead, only back. The rear lock is lack of .... and the front too ...

Yesterday I changed the gearbox in places - forward set with LSD (because there is little sense from it), and on the back of the front (pre-brewing the difer). I have interchangeable (identical).

Almost all sizes converges with Yamaha Reno, that's just the weight of me smaller and the wheels on more ... and the clearance, respectively, on the complete go of the levers down (MAX move at the bottom) 420mm.

The base is 1600, the width along the edges of the wheels 1300, the height of the steering wheel 1300, on the saddle 900. Full length on the body is 2200.

The swan, which, without a block, stated 250 kg to the rise, albeit hard, but it takes off from the ground. The weight somewhere about 350 kg is obtained. It's so on the Wack. Wheels are heavy very -80-100 kg.

Here are still today's pictures ... too with a mobile phone. Fotik go far, and I forget about him constantly ...
So to speak, I master fiberglass ..

Here literally 1-2 layers of fiberglass, so the cardboard framework is shown (rear)

20 Aug 2009.
The maximum speed I think no more than 60 will ... but I do not need so much. Transfer switches the handle, everything works clearly, then I will make a photo.
Gearboxes cost 3000i 5000 with LSD - but it's shit, it almost does not work - only for snow .... drive assembly cost 1500+ Niva exterior grenades and sticks + cutting of threads on sticks and sleeve-nut connector ... Common drive each came out about 2000 r Eo the most expensive parts - everything else on small things. Reducer from Mitsubishi RVR. A small half-axis is inserted into the gearbox, and the drive is screwed to 3 bolts to it - it is very convenient to remove the drive!

Brakes without a vacuum. Made from the main cylinder of the clutch and two Niva Sugostites. On the calipers combined the cylinders under one hose (on the Niva they work separately) Now the ka on Chevrolena. Brakes so far only on the rear axle, but it slows down through the transmission and front.

Hydraulic clutch consists of classic GCS and RCS. It is powered by the pedal to the left (temporarily removed for the fiberglass, but there is a desire to do on the steering wheel).

With brewed diff, I have not yet traveled. But on Merce Gelendvagen, with 100% locks rode, rushing like a tank, but it rulits a little worse (it's easier to ride a car), but I have a free front. More precisely, there is LSD, but it blocks quite a bit. So it should be all right!

With fiberglass - the most frown is air! Need good fiberglass. I ran out, it remained removed from the pipes (not in the end) - it is impregnated with something, and very badly falls ....

In general, somehow so .....

11 Oct 2009.
By weight, according to preliminary calculations, about 400kg is obtained, and the most severe wheels ...

the base of 1600, on the edges it was 1300, but now put another rubber and it turned out somewhere 1400 ...

At the first speed climbs into the wall, although it is heavy ... And on the second one, it is possible to touch and quickly drive ... Well, the third has not yet had to turn on -Hegde to get involved so ...

I think it can put a gearbox with large numbers ....

Oct 25 2009.
Printed ... got out small shoals in preparation ... Right and paint ....
Fitting the evil rubber. I had to break the wheels up to 8, and then a little small - the rubber is hubby ...

09 Nov 2009.
The test drive at the weekend showed that the permeability of the apparatus is worthy - practically freely in the swamp, where the UAKA on 35 "wheels hangs on the bridges ... but also got out the first joint - a weak point was the cylinder of the hydraulic cell from the Volga 3110, bent and crushed the rod with a diameter In 10mm ... It is necessary to make it easily ... getting to the Gazelka was necessary without hydroger - on these wheels it is quite difficult. But you can go. On the third transfer, the 4th it became terrible to include, according to GPS, a speed of 35 km / h was achieved. On a forest road with a small rut ... You can and more .... 2 adult men drags without any problems, like one, the only thing that breaks back the back suspension on big bumps. You will need to pick up other springs and increase the move the suspension. ..

In general, the test drive was not particularly successful - because The technique is rapidly refusing and unprecedented the remaining flaws .... sorry. Then I could not drive it because I did not take the native Okooth belt of the generator, to turn off the hydraulic (and then nafig), in general because of this and .... everything ..

A steering rail was taken with a hydraulic agent. From the rails we take the distributor (spool assembler) and the conductive hydraulic cylinder. The cylinder is done in disregard - brewed on the one hand.

Initially, I took the cylinder from the Volga hydraulic agent 3129-3110С by a separate scheme (i.e. with a power cylinder). But it could have broken a rod for tests (the F of the rod was about 7 mm), although on the UAZka it pulls 36 "wheels. Begun due to the fact that the hinge made the hinge incorrectly. It turned out an undesirable lever that gave a skew - from which he bent .. .

On Wednesday, I bought the cheapest rail on disassembly from the Reloruette Subara, made a cylinder from it. The diameter of the rod 21mm. In the rod sleeved the thread on M16x1 - under the classic steering tip. A little reddished bumps, or rather the cylinder fastening lever to the bumps. All set. Works perfectly, no hints for bending ...

This is an initial idea with a ball - did not go. The ball has small corners of the stroke ...

Laid out vidyuhi from the test .... a little completely truth ...

http://video.mail.ru/mail/ramm_stas/3/7.html
http://video.mail.ru/mail/ramm_stas/3/6.html

Nov 23, 2009.
A small report with tests number 2.
The apparatus is going worthy, even very worthy. On the swamp and clay rushing like a tank.
From the breakdown - this time the rear drive was the weak point. At the beginning of the pokatushek, the nasty stick struck and broke the fruit boot of the outdoor shrus. After some time, the separator scattered ... one drive rear wheel remains. But at the same time Quadr feathers as a tank. Actually, we drove another 4 hours across the entire off-Road competition. Then, in the brody with a rather heavy yield, the drive shaft turned over. Cooked a piece of scrap from Niva, from Mitsubishi intake. And the connection is also normal. It seems the Nivian glands cannot withstand loads. But on the highway we drove together, which was possible and gave such a result. It goes on the front, but inevitably and mostly raging.

In the week I spread the suspension, changing the glands to the same. Look at the overload whether it is .... And then it may have to do in the cardanov ....

Yes, it is necessary to make wings extends, and then mud souls ..., although the chemical protection is quite good with this copes :-))

09 Dec 2009.
Under the gearbox number in 27? Then it will not go - the rubber is severe very - the wheel assembly 40kg - horror !!!

In that week, these wheels sold these wheels, and today he finally took another rubber 28x12xR14 from quadric - weight 3 times less, with greater width and the same primer and total weight of 20 kg. Volgov's discs 14 "Efficient to 9" width ....

I also disassembled the rear suspension - I make adjustable racks based on the Okooth springs and the amortics (there will be a replacement cartridges in the racks), Uralskian pierces and very hard ...

18 Dec 2009.
This is a little redoned the rear suspension, or rather elastic elements .... Now with hardness adjustment and replaceable amorrators. Reduced by 2.5 times the mass of the wheel - the method of replacing the wheels ..., rubber from quadric 28x12xr14 Disk Volgovsky, Rassdable to 9 ".
true width change to 1550mm: Cry:, although more stable now.

Redid Gazulka - Moto changed on quadrokurok. It is more efficient and more convenient in shit - verified!
The device has become noticeably strong and theft. Significantly increased the move of the suspension and smoothness of work.

It remains to hold a "combat" babble and all tested in harsh conditions ...
some pictures (from the mobile phone)

10 Jan 2010.
I chased almost all the weekend on it. Flight is normal, rushing confidently in the snow at 30 cm. Burned the rear spring (front okovskaya) - Revenue to the front, but they were too soft. It is necessary ...

Here is a little video ..

10 Jan 2010.
transmission 2 and a little on the third. On the asphalt tried 4th - it was easily caught up with a motorcycle (he drove 40km-according to him) and overtook - 60 I think it goes. Asphalt is a little slippery due to snow, faster enough to drive ....
And in the forest got nagany from skiers. Friendly in Mockey star skiing in Leu Per (is hard for virgin), and I am near or in a context ... our skiing is widely, they are offended by 8).

Well, finally, I waited for the toke, which 3 weeks brain composting ... People for money do not want to work, but at the same time they complain that they are not .... Yesterday we made all the necessary glands ...

Cups under the spring took from the rear amorers 2108 (I had to climb in mellometric receivers on the heap of iron), in order to plant the best planting of the spring, weight saving and money. Rooted and, accordingly, lengthened the supports, as recommended. Let's see how to work. The springs occurred with a variable step from 2108 - it is convenient to cut them, and a part of the spring with a frequent step is soft and just fit into the design of the construction.
The weight of the finished design was 5.5 kg.

Introducing the Quadrocycle of our permanent author S. Plentneva from the city of Points of Perm Region. The next car constructed indicates the increased design level and the professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself ...

Cow a year since then when having left the garage, tested its first quad bike with the rear leading wheels (). And the thought came: And now it is now all-wheel drive ATV (from the English. All Terrain Vehicle is all-terrain vehicle; such an international designation received similar cars).

Fortunately, at that time the buyer was turned up on Buggy (), and the revenue money went to the implementation of a new project.

Labor is 3 - 4 hours after work and on weekends - and the new car was ready for testing, only small (and I would say pleasant) refinement: connecting light equipment, installing the ignition lock, rear-view mirrors and other little things.

The power unit for my quad bike was the motor from the "Oka" - 32-strong, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid cooling. And if for the car its power often turned out to be not enough, then for quad bikes should have been enough with interest.

Machine frame - spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: the upper and lower) are made of round tubes of type VGP-25 (water-based diameter of 25 mm with a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (so-in, crossbar, etc.) - from WGT-20. Spars - bent: the lower in the horizontal plane, the top - in the vertical. Flex a pipe on the pipe bender, "on the cold". The eyeles (pairs of ears) for fastening the levers and shock absorbers of the suspension welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets - as nodes and aggregates (by "place").

1 - front wheel (from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);

2 - engine (from the car "Oka");

3 - transmissions of the front wheel drive;

4 - transmission box (from the car "Oka");

5 - transmissions of the rear wheel drive;

7 - rear wheel (from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);

8 - fuel tank (20-liter canister);

9 - rear trunk;

10-blower;

11-Sprinkle Passenger Support (headrest from the "Oka" car);

12 - saddle;

13 - clutch basket (from the "Oka" car);

14 - lever fixing gear;

15 - body kit (fiberglass);

16 - steering wheel (from the motorcycle "Ural");

17 - instrument shield (from the car "Oka");

18 - Front Trunk

The transmission of all-terrain vehicles is peculiar. Although the machine is all-wheel drive, but there is no dispensing box. As you know, the engine is located in the "Oka", and on the Quad bike it is set along. This allowed to direct the output shafts from the transmission change box (CAT) not on the right and left wheel (both in the car), but on the front and rear axle. Here is just the power unit itself, the clutch and gearbox, signed with the "basket" of the clutch and the checkpoint, had to move relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry slightly left to reduce the horizontal angle of longitudinal swivels of transmissions. Well, their vertical angles were insignificant.

Transmission from the aggregates of various domestic cars, mainly "VAZ" models. But the finished industrial aggregates also had to refine. For example, from the PPC (from Oki) to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase the torque removed the main gear pair and replaced it on the chain transmission. The shifting stock also made another - extended, with releases on both sides of the checkpoint. The rod can be recorded in three positions: to include the 1st and 2nd gear, 3rd and 4th and rear. The selection lever of these provisions is on the right side, and the speed switch lever is with the left.

Intercolese gearboxes - from the rear bridges of the Vazovskaya "Classics", only their semi-axes together with the "stockings" are removed and replaced with shafts with shurthers from front-wheel drive models. Shruses as hinges are used in the remaining intermediate trash shafts.

1 - Motor (from the car "Oka");

2 - grip (from the car "Oka");

3 - gear change box;

4 - Sls (from car VAZ-2108, 12 pcs);

5 - gearbox of the main transmission with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);

6 - shaft (from car VAZ-2108, 6 pcs.);

7 - Wheel (from the Chevrolet-Niva car)

There are no reduced gears and blocking differentials.

Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automotive type (with steering rods) - downstairs, just simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one piece. The steering wheel first used from the Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a bit thin. Later found and set from the "Ural" motorcycle. The steering shaft is from the pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a thickness of the wall of 2.8 mm. At the bottom end, it has a stroke limiter. At the bottom of the shaft rests on the stubborn bearing, and in the middle part turns into the junction of the piping bracket-sleeve.

The sump is made of a steel sheet with a thickness of 8 mm in a form resembling the letter "T". The edge of the "racks" performed a hole with a diameter of 20 mm - the steering shaft is inserted into it, and in the ears - the tapered holes under the ball tips of the steering. These holes are enhanced by suitable welded washers. The bark ears are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the traction.

The wheels are 15-inch, from the car "Chevrolet-Niva". Tires with an appropriate planting diameter of 205/70 (width / height as a percentage of width) with off-road tread pattern. The diameter of the wheel running is about 660 mm.

1 - Lower spar (pipe D25x3,2,2,2 pcs.);

2 - upper spar (pipe D25x3,2,2 pcs.);

3 - Rack (pipe D25x3,2, 2 pcs.);

4 - support of the rear top lever suspension (pipe D25x3,2,2 pcs.);

5 - rear pitch (pipe D20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

6 - support front top lever suspension (pipe D25x3,2, 2 pcs.);

7 - front pitch (pipe D20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

8 - upper support front shock absorber (35 × 35 corner);

9 - top shock absorber top support (sheet S5, 2 pcs.);

10 - Front engine mounting rack (sheet S3, 2 pcs.);

11 - Rear reference rack of engine mounting (sheet S3,2 pcs.);

12 - eyelets of fastenings of levers and suspension shock absorbers (sheet S5, 18 pairs);

13 - Bracket fastening the saddle (sheet S3, 2 pcs.);

14 - upper transverse connection (pipe D20x2.8);

15 - lower transverse connection (pipe D20x2.8.2 pcs.);

16 - radiator support (pipe D25x3.2 cut along half, 2 pcs.);

17 - front console footboard (pipe D20x2);

18 - rear console footage (pipe D20x2);

19 - Communication of the front and rear consoles of the footboard (pipe D20x2);

20 - crossing the steps (sheet S5, 4 pcs.);

21 - UCHO fastening of fiberglass kit (sheet S5, kit)

Suspension wheels - independent, on two triangular transverse levers each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the "Oka" car (front). The levers are welded from round tubes of type VGP-20. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the "Oka" car (rear). In the wheels of the front levers they weld the hubs and swivel fists - from the car VAZ-2109. And those and others had to modify. In the hubs installed studs under the wheels from "Niva", and in the front fists - home-made swivel levers.

The muffler is homemade, two-piece. To protect against temperature storage boxes, covered with a remote cover, and insulated asbestos inlet.

Body body kit - fiberglass. He shouted it for the first time, and therefore first examined the recommendations for the implementation of the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

(A - the upper arm of the front suspension; b - the lower arm of the front suspension; in the bottom lever of the rear suspension; G is the top lever of the rear suspension; all parts, except marked, are made of pipe VGT-20):

1 - beam (2 pcs.);

2 - cross;

3 - sleeve (pipe D37x32, 2 pcs.);

4 - dressing of the shock absorber (steel, sheet S3);

5 - ball hinge (from the steering thrust of the car "Zhiguli")

At first, it was made of a steel square pipe with a cross section of 10x10x1mm. Required body contours. Fortunately, this pipe is easily neat even with his hands through the knee. The contour welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where then (after dusting of the kit), it would be possible to cut the "tape". Then, bent from an organity (wood-fiber plate) "Wings" and fixed them with self-draws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend was obtained steep, fastened individual strips from the same organity. The front ended with a neopolistir acquired in a shopping store. It was possible to use foam or the same mounting foam, but the polystyrene foam turned out to be a more appropriate material - it is well cut in a sharp thin knife. Separate elements of it glued into the overall design on the mounting foam.

1 - steering shaft (pipe D20x2.8);

2 - steering connection plate (steel, sheet S6);

3 - plate plate (steel, sheet S6, 2 pcs.);

4 - Rubber Bracket Sleeve Steering Shaft (Capron, S18 Sheet);

5 - Support washer (steel, sheet S6, 2 pcs.);

6 - Cup (steel, sheet 18);

7 - steering wheel limiter (steel, S6 sheet);

8 - Bearing hull;

9 - stubborn tip (steel, circle 15);

10 - Thrust Bearing

Filshbak - complex shape. It did not seem to be taken out of the organity. Therefore, by climbing the engine with a plastic film, it began to fill the places of the mounting foam intended for it. After each layer is a mandatory drying, otherwise the thick volume of the foam may not dry inside. Filled until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after complete drying, the foam became a knife to withdraw the desired shape. The verge burned down coarse sandpaper.

Under the instrument panel went into the course of the dashboard "Oka". I fastened it on the blank, too, using a mounting foam. Since foam is a large, pores filled with plaster and then processed. When the shape of the blanks began to answer the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, covered the workpiece of PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make the matrix on the nerve for dusting of the kit, and immediately soldered the bodywork on it, followed by the end of the surface to the perfect state, then the shpocking of the plaster and the painting of the nerve could be neglected.

So, the Bolon is ready and to solder the quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer to it and 1 kg hole-callee, 15 robust meters of non-footwork fiberglass, 5 m of glass, brushes, gloves. It is very desirable to work in the means that protect the breath. And what they are more expensive, the more reliable. But the experience, as is known, can not buy, so it was gained in the process of work.

A transparent scotch used as a separation layer between the nerd and the product. Thoroughly, without skipping, glued to his stripes. There was only 1.5 rolls of wide scotch.

Divorced a resin on 200 - 300 grams with a hardener and plasticizer. Applied measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before that, cut the strips of fiberglass with such dimensions so that large cloths lay on the smooth surfaces, and on the irregularities, the sections of the fabric were able to repeat them without making folds. By the way, fiberglass to the measure stretches on the diagonal of the weave, "flowing" the desired form.

At first, one piece of nerve was smelled to thick epoxy resin, put the fiberglass on it and the resin was again impregnated from above. The neighboring piece of the cloth was glued by the same technology with a twist of 3 - 5 cm. Work had a spore - resin grabbed pretty quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, another resin has a slightly heated near the powerful lighting lamp for better flow.

After jumping a fiberglass in one layer, began to shock it with glassate. The glass made me quite thick, and they turned out to be good to dial the thickness of the product. But it does not fit irregularities, so I used it only on even (or with unrocked deflection) surfaces and without a twist. The impregnation of the resin was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be noted that the resin for the impregnation of stiposate goes a lot, so it is necessary to breed it more. The uneven surfaces after the stickers of the stroke gambled into a few layers of the cloth. Each subsequent layer imposed after the previously gripped the previous one, so as not to break down the resin. And since the process of body cutting took no one day, after a day of the break "rough" the surface of large sandpaper and degrease - because the resin is completely cured during this time. The final layers over the mat again covered the glass kits, and not even one layer.

Trunks:

a - front; B - rear

Since I needed the surface, as they say, than it is even better, the better, and the experience was not enough, then the failures and pits still remained - poured them wherever one resin, and where and with the imposition of fiberglass pieces. The resins did not have enough. I did not buy in Khozmaga, in boxes. I liked working with her more, because it was already packaged, and it remained only to mix the components. And she dried quickly than acquired on the company.

After a complete drying of the soldered body kit made a propyl in it, separating the product to three parts: rear wings and a back, a rashhead with a podswing, front wings and front. Caution, slightly going down and pulling out with arms with hint, separated the product in parts without much effort from the nerd.

Now, removing the part, began to process them separately, bringing to the desired result. In general, ordinary preparatory and paint work on the "all" technology: first coarse grinding with the removal of large resin and fiberglass bulbs; Then the painstaking embezzlement with a putty with fiberglass recesses; Next, grinding the outer surface and primer with a plasticizer. In conclusion - painting "metallic" and a coating with a varnish with a plasticizer.

The boyfriend also cut off and put it in a distant corner - just in case. Bidding attached to specially made and welded "on the place" fasteners on the frame.

At the end, it was welded from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm front and rear trunk, and in addition to them - and "kenguryatniki" replacing bumpers.

The main data of the Quadrocycle:

Mass, kg ............................................................ 430

Length, mm ............................................. 2300

Width, mm.

(on the outer sidewalls of tires) ......... 1250

Height, mm:

ruly ..............................................1250

on the saddle ........................................................... ..900

Road clearance, mm ........................ .300

Base, mm ................................................ 1430

Pitch, mm ............................................. 1045

Maximum speed, km / h ................65

S. Plenthen, G. Steen, Perm Region

Today we will talk about how to make from a motorcycle, a motorcycle or a moped real quad bike with your own hands. Also consider drawings, schemes and methods of assembling self-made quadrocyclas from girlfriend in the garage

From the type of motorcycle "Ural" is a big, bulky, heavy and "voracious" beast has a beautiful four-stroke engine with rear transmission and worth "penny". For this reason, enthusiasts are much cheaper and more interesting to create their own structures of these SUVs.

Before starting the assembly, you need to make a detailed list of units and parts that will be needed to create your own brainchild, develop a work plan and drawing.

It is logical that first of all it is necessary to find the "heart" of the future quadrocycle - the power unit. It will suit absolutely any, starting from the usual motoblock and ending with six-liter V12 - there are such precedents. In most cases, motorcycle engines are used - they are economical and small-sized.
To use high gear numbers in normal operation, the engine "Minsk" or "Urals" will be enough.

In the summer there is a question of overheating, so the models with air-cooled should be selected. Another good option is the opposite engines of Soviet production, an indisputable plus of which - a powerful traction and a completely unpretentious cardan transmission.

There are two most common rear suspension solutions for a quad bike.
Reducer-cardan system. The design is obtained as easier and simple as possible, but there is no differential than, in principle, you can sacrifice the sake of previously mentioned advantages.

Using a car bridge. The design is extremely severe, and if there is no desire to have a quad bike with a car base, you need to shorten the bridge, which is a very nontrivial occupation. Of the advantages it is worth allocating only the presence of differential, which is useful when moving along the tracks.

Huge opportunities are revealed to create anterior suspension and steering. Quadzerickel suspension levers carry a much smaller load than automotive, respectively, they can be made independently, using remedies for this. The optimal option is the creation of the suspension on the basis of the existing Motorcycle "Ural".

Ideal - to remove the frame from the donor motorcycle and draw the necessary elements - it eliminates problems, however, the design may be unnecessary.

After preparing the necessary tools, donor vehicles and freed time, you can start creating your own quad bike:

We collect a frame (frame). Completed metal beams combine, according to the drawing, with a point welding. Design check and carry out solid welding. Alternatively, you can simply remake the frame from the donor motorcycle - it will be no worse.

Install the engine. It can be placed both from behind, and in front - the main thing, firmly consolidate it with the help of bolts on the bottom of the frame.

Mount the drive and transmissions on the rear wheels. The drive is not required to create independently - it moves along with the engine from the donor transport and is installed on the frame. Again, it is necessary to qualitatively secure the drive and transmission on the frame to prevent backlash.

Steering is also installed from a motorcycle. Together with the steering wheel on the quad bike "Swinging" and the fuel tank. In general, if you submit a design, it will look like this: 3/4 of the Quadrocycle is all the same "Ural" or other motorcycle, 1/4 is homemade frame and suspension. .

Wheels Install with a small vehicle ("Oka" or "ZAZ-968"). Rear wheels can go to a quad bike with the rear axle car or are attached as follows: take ready-made axis with disks, after which the reducer for the drive is on the rear secure. and install the wheels on the disks
With the gearbox on the rear axle and the engine we collect a single drive (again - it will be easier if it is completely rearranged from the donor). We do this as follows: From the engine, stretch the chain on the gearbox and fix it, after which we carry out a performance test. Ultimately, the entire design is fixed on the frame.

The front suspension is independent - it is more profitable from the point of view of time and means, since the all-wheel drive quad bike requires a significant improvement of this node by a professional turner, a welder and electrician, which will take a lot of time. Alternatively, get ready-made factory nodes for quad bickers.

Thanks to a reliable design, a time-tested, excellent power and thrust, it is the "Ural" motorcycle is the most popular donor for homemade quad bikes.
Frame.

Specification on the quadrocycle frame:

Material: 2.5 x 2.5 square profile
Total Length: 130 cm
Total height: 74 cm (landing level)
Total height: 84 cm (steering level)
Wheel base: 105 cm
Distance between axes: 70.5 cm
Tilt axis: 14 degrees
Pitch (distance from the outer edge of the tire to the outer edge of the other): Front: 105 cm; Rear: 112 cm
Clearance: 7 inches (with 16-inch rear wheels)
Materials:
Square profile:

2.5x2.5 Square Profile - 9.75 meters
Pipes:

1.22 meters - 1 x .065 (inches)
1.22 meters - 3/4 x .065
0.3048 meters - 3/4 x .125
0.915 meters - 5/8 x .125
0.61 meters - 1/2 x .083 Aluminum T6 pipe
Rental:

0.61 meters - 1 x 3/16 (inches)
0.915 meters - 1 1/4 x 1/4
0.61 meters - 5 x 1/8 (Plate for mounting the engine and suspension)

You also need spring shock absorbers for rear and front suspension.

Engine for quad bike:

Now it is necessary to securely secure the engine on the frame. The engine is best used from moped. After screwing it into the frame, connect the engine shaft with a gear on the rear axis of a simple chain transmission. After that, output all engine controls on the steering wheel and secure the pedals and levers on your frame.

Details of the body kit or body of the Quadrocycle are better and easier to make fiberglass. After making on wooden or plasticine duals, the elements of the aerodynamic body kit are adjusted relative to each other, polished and then painted in the desired color, after which they are already attached to the frame of the quad bike. Ideas, as well as some ready-made elements, such as a broken machine (of course, if you have in stock), options for external body kit can be taken from any serial models.
Important:

Remember that it will be necessary to register it into the traffic police on the roads on public roads, where any vehicles with a motor with more than 50 cm and maximum design speed are more than 50 km / h. Therefore, we recommend not to use engines with a volume of more than fifty cubic centimeters.

The quad bike frame is welded with a round-cross-section tube, corners and square profiles. It is desirable to apply the elements of various mopeds and motorcycles, because it is there that the pipes with high strength are used. In no case do not use water pipes. They do not have the necessary strength and can crack at any time. Then we weld the fastening brackets and fix the engine to the frame. Your first quad bike is better made from the moped engine
He will like even your children who will be just delighted with him. The fact is that children's quadrocycles on gasoline is an excellent toy for each child. After all, he does not develop huge speeds, but emotions from overcoming the crossed terrain, the guys will be eliminated. Next, we connect the engine shaft from the rear axle gear using the chain.

We install on the steering column the control mechanisms of the Quad bike, and on the frame, the pedals and levers are fed. The power and ignition system is taken from the same moped model from which we took the engine. After time, they can be improved and modest in reasonable, of course, limits. Choose the fuel tank can be a motorcycle appropriate volume. Do not forget the moment that in the question of how to make a quad bike, you need to carefully work carefully. Therefore, the installation of the battery on such a machine is simply necessary

Also need details for assembling the ATV:

1 - disks with a motorollar tourist or ant
2 - Rubber on a motor-block 10 inches and wider than 4.5 or 5.0
3 - Profile pipe 15 * 15. 17 * 17. 20 * 20. 25 * 25.
4 - Bearing 306 - 12 pieces
5 - Sls Outdoor VAZ 2109-08 16 pieces of them 4 new 4 seconds, but workers, and 8 you can killed (for any hundred in scrap metal) and 8 anthers.
6 - engine from a moped of at least 150 cubic meters. For example, Viper storm in place with wiring with ignition lock with wheel and glossy
7 - reducer with an ant scooter reinforced (all shafts on bearings)
8 - four leading stars from Iza on 21 tooth and two new chains
9 - ball supports with Renault 21 on any disassembly shaft and penny
10 - reactive thrust of the rear axle (short.) From 2101The-6 pcs
11 - a bunch of various bolts of cutting circles and electrodes well, it's all along
12 - SMOPED shock absorbers Yamaha Aprio -4St from Honda Lead 2 pcs and 8 more killed depreciations from any Joint mopeds (we will cut ears from them)

.

In winter, quad bike is easy to re-equip, replacing the rear wheels on pneumatics and installing the steering ski in front; The machine is thus turning into a snowmobile, and it takes less than a transformation. Use in the manufacture of all-terrain vehicles available materials, simplicity of the design may well provide repeatability of the machine even in a home workshop.

MTS frame is made of round-section pipes, square profiles and corners. Its feature is the detachable connections that allow you to remove the steering column assembly when the engine is installed, as well as the beam of the front axle. Each of the connectors consists of a conventional "plumbing" coupling, currency and locking.

For the tension of the circuit connecting the engine with the gearbox, the engine frame (part of the Motorcycle Motorcycle) moves; The axis of the rear wheels with bearings also has the ability to move in the longitudinal direction, which allows you to adjust the tension of the second chain connecting the reducer with the rear axle. Front and rear wings are removable (in the snowmobile version they are missing). The docking of the frame elements was made by electric welding.

Motor vehicle engine - from Motocycle "Minsk", I have no comments for his work. Of course, the installation of more powerful engines is possible - from the motorcycle "Sunrise" or a "Tula" motorol. It is only necessary to adjust the frame size below them. The choice of "Minsk" engine was due to its economy and low mass. Its power turned out to be quite sufficient for traveling on a snowmobile with a passenger, a tug of a skier or a sled is also possible. The launchers of the motor and summer and winter are quite satisfactory.

The way control of the summer version of the motor vehicle is provided by turning the front wheels with two cras; For the winter version there is a lever and a thrust connecting it with a ski fork. The latter is borrowed from the moped. The front axle - from Motocolus Szd, True, a slightly reduced: plots and central parts are cut out of its beams (with a torsion mounting bolt) cooked with peripherals (with sleeves of suspension levers). In the winter version of the levers, swivel fists, thrust and torsions are dismantled.

The steering wheel is from the Motor Tourist, it is perfectly joined with the steering shaft Bolt M10. Standard controls, motorcycle. The brake lever is connected by the cable with brake pads installed on the gearbox.

Reducer. Its base was the hub of the rear wheel of the Motor Tula-200 engine, to which an asterisk was welded from the brake drum. The rear axle drive is carried out with a chain with a step of 19 mm. The transmission brake allows you to significantly simplify the design of the rear axle. The asterisk on the axis is fixed by the M14 bolt, the hubs of the running wheels are attached, as shown in the drawings. As the basis of the gearbox, you can use not only the hub of the wheel "tourist", but also other motorcycles.

The axis of the leading wheels is a rod with a diameter of 30 mm; Ends of it is flowing to Ø25 mm, accurate hubs are put on these places. Wheels are used from motoclasts size 5.00x10.0. Winter wheels are ordinary for pneumatic on tires of low pressure tires: with plywood discs, aluminum lodges and fastening the chamber with straps. Bearings Axis two-row, they have conical inserts with nuts that are well fixed axis and do not require high processing accuracy.

More information about quad bikes can be viewed on this link:

Optional equipment. It can be attributed to the front and rear triggers, headlights, light signals and stop signals; The places of their attachment are shown in the drawings.

The construction of the all-terrain vehicle is simple, it can be made literally in a few days in a fairly primitive workshop - of course, if there are all components of the nodes. And the possibilities of using such a car are the widest: as a winch when plowing the garden, for the drive of a disk saw, as the simplest garden tractor (excellent passability of arable land, therefore, cultivation, hyphenation, etc. is possible. In addition, it is possible to increase the permeability by setting the rear wheels. You can also mount the reverse gearbox from the motocolar zoom, in which the differential is replaced with the shaft, and then the all-terrain route will receive rear transmission. The rubber wear due to the lack of differential is not observed, and it does not affect manageability.

How to make homemade quad bikes - a question that is the dream of almost any young designer.

However, this kind of dreams are carried out far from all and far from at that age in which I would like. But sometimes the dreamers still embody the desired reality.

Skills of drawing up drawings, the ability to perform complex technological processes, estimates and time are the basic requirements when creating a self-made vehicle.

Today we will tell you about how to construct homemade quad bikes, using spare parts from Oka and show this process using photo selection.

You can find out one of the ways and make sure that the self-creating of an auto parts can be done in the example below.

All-wheelwater quad bike on the basis of the car "Oka" with their own hands (Lover Designer Sergey Pletnev)

To begin with, we present the general characteristics of the project:

• Length - 2300 mm;
• Width - 1250 mm;
• Height - (extreme points of the wheels) - 1250 mm;
• Base - 1430 mm;
• Clearance - 300 mm;
• Engine - got from the car "Oka";
• Wheels - discs: "VAZ" 2121 (Niva);
• Tires - coordiantoffroadr15;
• Shock absorbers - "Oka";
• Hubs - "VAZ" 2109;
• Inter-wheeled gearboxes - "VAZ" classic
• Maximum speed - 60 km / h
• The gearbox taken from "Oka" was modified by replacing the standard main pair of gear on the chain drive.

It was done to raise speed on a flat road. And it looks like this:

Assembled

In disassembled form

In the form of carrier parts, the frames perform water pipes (VGP 25x3,2). Were purchased in the form of two segments of 7900 mm and weighing 38 kg in the amount of 1150 rubles.

For levers and suspensions, water pipes were also required (20x2,8) - two segments of 6100 mm long, 20 kg weighing 650 rubles.

Two used rear bridges from "penny" (VAZ 2101) - in the amount of 3000 rubles.

From the "eight" (VAZ 2108), fists assembled with discs, calipers and other steels of drives - in the amount of all these bu parts were spent 4000 rubles.

Metal sheets, nuts, bolts, washers, silent blocks, and others were useful - consumables and materials for such cases should always be enough.

From the above parts using welding, pipe bending and plumbing tools, this design was created.

With the help of welding, most structural parts are bonded. A carburetor was installed.

Homemade all-wheel drive quadrocycle carburetor

Metal plates for suspension, engine and bridges are also fixed with welds

The hubs are connected to the suspension new phthulates, washers and bolts

After the frame was collected, the miscalculations of the nuances of the engine position, the functional of the gearbox and its mounting, as well as the front suspension with the steering wheel, began.

As a result, the following moves were applied:

From the rear post, the semi-axes are connected to the hubs. Fastening for shock absorbers

In the gearbox applies the elongated stemman production

The picture shows how the fastening for the box and the position of the rod was connected

The swivel fist is taken from the "VAZ" 2109 and the steering tower is made of metal plate alone

After a small test drive, it was noticed that the stem from the box would need a scene to switch the hand gear - this is the most convenient option in the case of a modified box.

It must be said that it was modified to increase the gear ratio from the axis to the wheels, since without this intervention, the speed at maximum revolutions would not be given above 45 km / h.

Further assembly

Side steps are welded to the frame, the front axle is installed, a cardan from the gearbox is connected to the front bridge, the front shock absorbers are installed. The front edges are connected to the hubs and the bridge

Installed brake system separately for wheel back

Installed steering and brake system for front wheels

Off-road rubber purchased (in this case, the most appropriate option)

The stage of creating a quadrocycle matrix occurred. Installed mounting foam, cardboard, resin, fiberglass, fittings, etc.

The technology of applying materials when creating a matrix is \u200b\u200ba very complex process that requires a deep and detailed study.

The frame of the wings, as well as the front and rear parts of the facing, is set for easy reinforcement and cardboard. The foam was filled with a margin in places where convex forms were supposed to do.

The dried foam was processed with a furnace hammer, knife and other tools

An oil radiator from the helicopter was installed and the first layer of fiberglass was applied

The front suspension is completely collected. Native ball "VAZ" 2109 below. From above steering tip from "UAZ"

Processed surface. Side view

The hubs were fitted under the wheels of "Niva" with special adapters

View of the hub from the side

The matrix is \u200b\u200balmost ready. Additional parts of the frame provided for use as a trunk and bumper are harvested at the same time.

Homemade seat. The steering wheel is borrowed from the Minsk motorcycle. Controls were summed up.

Painting quadrocycla

Painted suspension elements

Assembly

The final part of the work is an assembly.

Used homemade silencers. Plastic canister used as a gas tank. Electronics mounted.

From another angle.

End of work

Completed work.

The panel is borrowed from the "Oka" car.

Quad bike - actually any four-wheel transport, because in the Latin Quadro - "Four", on the SIS expanses under this title most often implies a all-wheel drive representing a motorcycle and car symbiosis. From the motorcycle, the quad bike adopted mobility, maneuverability, ease, speed, and from the car - the excellent characteristics of passability, power and controllability. As a result, it turned out a unique vehicle intended for various purposes.

The domestic market provides only foreign models of quadrocycles, the cost of which is often translated. At the same time, on the secondary transport market without difficulty, it is possible to find used motorcycles and cars at an extremely low price.

For example, the "Ural" motorcycle is large, bulky, heavy and "voracious" has a wonderful four-stroke engine with rear transmission and worth "penny". For this reason, enthusiasts are much cheaper and more interesting to create their own structures of these SUVs.

A typical factory representative of quad bikes is a brilliant, neatly assembled, strong and powerful.

His homemade fellow, which is a little inferior to externally, and in terms of power - and suppressed.

How to make quad bike do it yourself

Before starting the assembly, you need to make a detailed list of units and parts that will be needed to create your own brainchild, develop a work plan and drawing.

Engine: optimal choice

It is logical that first of all it is necessary to find the "heart" of the future "beast" - the power unit. It will suit absolutely any, starting from the usual motoblock and ending with six-liter V12 - there are such precedents. In most cases, motorcycle engines are used - they are economical and small-sized.

To use high gear numbers in normal operation, the engine "Minsk" or "Urals" will be enough. In the summer there is a question of overheating, so the models with air-cooled should be selected. Another good option is the opposite engines of Soviet production, an indisputable plus of which - a powerful traction and a completely unpretentious cardan transmission.

Suspension: Rear and Front

There are two most common rear suspension solutions for a quad bike.

1. Reducer-cardan system. The design is obtained as easier and simple as possible, but there is no differential than, in principle, you can sacrifice the sake of previously mentioned advantages.
2. Using a car bridge. The design is extremely severe, and if there is no desire to have a quad bike with a car base, you need to shorten the bridge, which is a very nontrivial occupation. Of the advantages it is worth allocating only the presence of differential, which is useful when moving along the tracks.

Huge opportunities are revealed to create anterior suspension and steering. Quadzerickel suspension levers carry a much smaller load than automotive, respectively, they can be made independently, using remedies for this. The optimal option is the creation of the suspension on the basis of the existing Motorcycle "Ural".

Rama: drawings and alternative

The best solution is a robust design of pipes or profiles cooked with each other.

Ideal - to remove the frame from the donor motorcycle and draw the necessary elements - it eliminates problems, however, the design may be unnecessary.

Assembly of quad bike

After preparing the necessary tools, donor vehicles and freed time, you can start creating your own quad bike:

Thanks to a reliable design, a time-tested, excellent power and thrust, it is the "Ural" motorcycle is the most popular donor for homemade quad bikes.

Video clip: "OSA" 4x4

The video below describes the design of the self-made quad bike, its characteristics, properties and features.

Photo Overview

Photos of quadrocycles on the basis of domestic motorcycles and cars:

As you can make sure, using outdated and inexpensive achievements of the Soviet Auto industry, you can create stunning devices that will sweep your pride and satisfy most of the transport tasks.