Home Steering Homemade radio-controlled machines with their own hands. Radio-controlled machine with their own hands. How to collect a radio-controlled machine: tools

Homemade radio-controlled machines with their own hands. Radio-controlled machine with their own hands. How to collect a radio-controlled machine: tools

Some people even having become adults did not lose interest in different games. Someone collects the designer, someone plays in board gamesAnd someone very much like machines on the remote. Of course, this passion has a more adult, compared to the nursery. And many fans machines dream about to get such an exhibit to themselves, which will not have anyone in the world. Nothing is simple! Learn how to make a machine on the remote yourself.

To begin with, you need to decide which details will be necessary to create a machine. So that you missed anything, below is located, the list of necessary components:

  • Electromotor or gasoline engine
  • Body
  • Chassis
  • Wheels
  • A set of screwdrivers of different sizes.

Making a typewriter with your own hands, you can control the entire process of creating, and then you will get exactly what they conceived. Plus, you will save money, and if you put a case on stream, you can do well on this. First, decide on the amount of money you can spend to purchase parts for the machine. The cost of the same types of components may vary depending on the material and quality of the product. Do you want to make a machine on a control panel with wire or on radio control? Here, when choosing, you need to consider that the parts for the wired console will be somewhat cheaper.

Wheels and chassis

Now you need to provide a chassis typewriter. You can try to make it yourself, but it is better to buy it ready in the store. Moreover, the wheels are sold with the chassis. When buying, pay attention to the quality of the product. The front wheels must turn with ease, and the tires are better to choose from rubber, because they give the best grip with the road.

Engine

Now you need to choose the engine of the machine, and this is perhaps the most important thing, because the motor is the heart of the car. You can use an electromotor from some technique, and if there is no such, then go to the store again. There can also be purchased and a gasoline engine that is much more powerful. True, it is necessary to care for it, buy gasoline, and it costs an order of magnitude more. So it is worth staying on the electric motor, and it will save you money and time.

Remote Control

Now it's time to take up the control panel. If you decide to make a typewriter with a wired console, do not forget about its main drawback - the car will move only at a distance that will allow, the length of the wire. If your choice fell on a radio control, then for the assembly of the remote you need a radar. Despite the fact that it is not so cheap, it is better to acquire it, as this will allow you to control the machine at a fairly large distance that covers the antenna.

Body

The next point is the body. Here you can show all your creativity, and make it yourself, pre-drawing sketches. Although this item can be purchased in the store.

Assembly

Now we have all the necessary details, and you can start assembling. As a rule, the components are attached detailed instructions. The whole sequence of actions is described. Then make the adjustment of the motor and the installation of batteries and the antennas, and only then you need to attach the body and chassis.

Now you know how to make a typewriter on the control panel.

Instruction

Independent assembly Machines on has several advantages. You will not only save, but you can do exactly what you want. First of all, decide the amount of the amount you are willing to spend. The range of spare parts and types is very large, price variation is also very large. When the amount is determined, proceed to the development of a small building plan. Decide what typewriter you want. You can make it simply on wired control, and you can use a radio control that will cost somewhat more expensive.

Select the chassis for your future typewriter. Now you can find a huge number of different chassis, all of them are interchangeable. When buying, pay attention to the quality of the details. There should be no enclosures and jar on plastic parts. The front wheels should be easily rotated. Wheels are usually sold with the chassis. They should also pay great attention. It is best to buy wheels with rubber, as plastic has a very bad coupling with the surface.

The next step is to choose a motor. This is the most important step, as you choose the heart of your future typewriter. The dynamics will largely depend on it specifications future model. There are two types of motors for models - electrical and gasoline. Electrical motors are unpretentious in service and have a relatively low price. They are very economical, as they feed from batteries that are easy to recharge. Gasoline engines They have greater power, but cost more and require careful care. Yes, and special fuel has a significant price. If you are new to modeling, then boldly choose an electric motor. You will save money and time.

Now you need to decide what type of control is wired or wireless. Wired control is cheaper, but the machine will ride only within a radius equal to the length of the wire. Radio block is a bit more expensive, but allows you to drive a car at an antenna coating distance. It is best to overpay and buy a radio roll. Also think about the hull of your car. On the store shelves you can find the buildings of almost all modern auto models. You can also make a housing in your own unique sketch.

Now you need to collect all components. Take the chassis and attach the motor and radio roll. Install the antenna. Together with the components, you must sell the assembly instructions in which you will be able to find the compounding scheme in detail. Install batteries and antenna. Adjust the motor operation. When everything is synchronously working, attach the car body on the chassis. Now it remains only to decorate the machine to your taste.

Psychologists say that a joint business promotes children and parents. Dad for a boy - always and in all. Unfortunately, the fathers do not always understand what to do with the child, except for watching the TV. We offer to learn how to make such an occupation will like both "boys": and son, and father. In this process, mom is likely to intervene. Just because of its ignorance in radio.

Occupation only for dad and son

Sometimes it seems that they care about the child's raising of the child, and the fathers only make money. However, the role of dad in the formation of the character of the baby, especially the Son, not less than Mamina. It happens that the tired father is underwritten to play with his chance in his noisy and fun games. However, you need to remember that the moment may come when the son will simply stop looking for the opportunity to chat with dad, if he constantly finds for this time. In the end, the misunderstanding between the dad and the son comes, which in adolescence is already quite difficult to overcome. A ready set or an independent attempt to figure out how to make a typewriter on the control panel will help your father and child strengthen their relationships and mutual understanding.

What is the cause of paternal removal from the son? Sometimes it is common inexperience, a certain fear that appears in young dads, especially if the mother practically does not let the father for the baby.

Where can I start a joint creativity

The easiest option (if you do not take into account the usual purchase of the finished model) - the machine-column-collected manual. Included all necessary details, you only need time and effort. A couple of evenings after work - and ready to the radio-controlled toy. And how much joy will get the son, and dad, when the model will go!

Another, more complex option - inventing and collecting the machine "from scratch". In this case, it will take more time, and the details will have to look, and the general work, the joint thing will bring more emotions.

What to choose: copy or just a brand machine

Some advanced craftsmen create and collect accurate mini-copies. real cars. This happens like this:

  • first, the machine on the remote control is carefully assembled, while family efforts;
  • secondly, the model can not be made of those materials that the original;
  • thirdly, some minor small details can be omitted.

Everything else, up to the engine and fuel, is performed with scrupulous accuracy. Some masters are engaged in assembling collection models that are accurate copies of real, real cars.

On the control panel? You can collect a half-breed, that is, an instance resembling appearance Selected original. And you can come up with a model "on a free topic", not focusing on some kind of definite form. The size of the machine, in principle, do not matter. Make small homework, jeep or passenger cars, and real radio-controlled mini cars. It all depends on the desire, allocated time and finance. Any activity that the son and dad are busy will strengthen the authority of the father in the eyes of the child.

What parts to prepare to make the model go

How to make a machine on the control panel? Everything starts with the project. To work, it is necessary to prepare not only a list of different parts and components, but all required tools. This will make the process more fascinating and organized. So what is needed to build a car:

  • motor (from a hair dryer, from a small fan) or a gasoline mini engine;
  • frame;
  • body;
  • set of rubber wheels;
  • the fact that real cars are called "shaft";
  • suspension or chassis;
  • 2 axes for installing wheels;
  • antenna;
  • thin connecting wires;
  • rechargeable batteries for powering the electric motor or gasoline (if the engine is the engine);
  • signal receiver;
  • control panel (transmitter or radar).

The tools will need passatatia, soldering iron, different screwdrivers and small wrench, tape, superchalter, bolts, washers, nuts and other fasteners. All missing tools, parts and components are either made independently or bought in specialized stores.

How all this is done and what will happen in the end

Preparing the details according to the plan of how to make a machine on the console, you can find that some of them need to be bought. Rama and body can be adapted from the old toy. Surely at home there are several boring or broken children's cars, from which some missing parts can be taken.

Motor need to check in advance for performance. Its power must correspond to the weight of the future of the car. A weak engine will not pull a heavy model. All work can go to zero. Batteries must be fresh or accumulative. This assembly sequence is:

  • First collected frame.
  • Makers are fixed and adjusting the motor.
  • Install batteries or battery.
  • The next action is fixed antenna.
  • Wheels are installed so that they can easily spin with the axis. If this is not done, the machine will not be able to rotate, it will ride just right: ahead and back.

It is preferable to take rubber tires, as they are better moved not only on the floor of the apartment, but also in the open soil. If you like the process and it will be possible to understand well how to make a typewriter on the control panel, you can build several different copies, teach neighbors' neighborhood and boys and arrange mini-rings on rough terrain right in the yard.


I can not endure not finished projects, so I did not post a single photo of this model until the complete construction. Finally, my ability crossed my aspirations. The model was built half a year. Well, let's tell me how I came to.
I think many remember the article about homemade traggy from Sergey Yeras from Saratov (),
so it was this article who segged me to build this model.

Before that I built a model something like a monster with rear wheel drive.

Quality left much to be desired, so I decided to find a good example of homemade car on the Internet. They came across either unfinished or designs from purchased parts, or such models to which I like on the moon on foot, and the first ten times more. I will not say that I was sitting without doing this time, I just didn't do anything particularly interesting, let's say that it raised my skills. But I came across the article Sergey, his lung approach to the case struck me, uncomplicated plastic details, a rather neat assembly, except that the gearbox is a little embarrassed me, well, in principle, it is clear that the differential to do more than difficult to do. And I thought, monsters are no longer for me, it is necessary to build something like the traggy, its advantages Sergey has already expressed. In general, I began to develop. It was decided to raise the bar, I decided to make a four-wheel drive, without applying branded gearboxes, I refused the differentials, because I had a bitter experience in their construction, the last design was scattered into pieces when tested the model, even though worked on small turns without complaints. I learned to do Cardana, for this particular thanks to the self-similar laboratory! The first telescopic drive criticized my friend, referring to their harness, so I made more powerful stainless steel (all cardanis are made from the tube, the first 4x6 mm, the second 4x8 mm). If the crosses in the first version consisted of millimeter pins, then in the second version there were pins 1.5 mm. I made telescopic cardans to compensate for the beating, and the geometry of the suspension did not allow to make their constant length.


At first I tried to make a four-wheel drive on my old model, in the end, the base is already ... But in the end, only a pair of pins remain from the old model, and I consider this approach to the right thing to make the model need brains and materials, and not ready parts, all these factory nodes are only interfered to build a design to which you You want to come, you always have to adapt to the fact that you have, so the smaller you have the details - the easier to develop a design.
In our aircraft club, the CNC machine appeared, so it became a little easier for me in terms of making accurate parts, but on this machine for the model only parts of the gearbox and several plywood sleeves with a thickness of 3 mm and 10 mm are made. For the model, I was developed a universal gearbox that could work from different motors, From a 280-of-type up to 400, the motors could put in pairs of one type naturally.
If a front axle Was with an independent suspension, then I thought that I would see and dependent, maybe in vain, but this is no longer changed. From the gearbox on the bridges, the rotation was transmitted through the tubes with slots under the pins, this design worked approximately as shruses on branded models, only instead of a ball centered the tube rubber gasketAnd I must say that it really worked well, for small angles (about 20 degrees) movement was transferred without problems.




I put a 380-type insane engine, the equipment and the battery, I fastened on the "second floor", the test time has come.



AND
here is the first leaving, at first everything was fine, the car sharply rushed and overcame irregularities in the yard, but less than a minute something became slipped, and the car stopped. Move the design of plastic conical gears, so I did not expect from them. No cardan, nor tube aluminum, nor plywood gearbox, namely gears. I was desperate, because I could not replace them with anything better, they didn't break it, they didn't have a teeth, they just slipped, no matter how much I did not press them. I already abandoned the full drive, secured the gearbox on rear axis And rode the way, but the benefit of Tamiya's chain transfer came to me. It was a collection of plastic chain and a few stars, I ordered this kit on a sample, but it happened so he came in handy before I expected.
I redid bridges under chain transmissionThe gearbox left on the rear axle, calculating that if a four-wheel drive passes, at least the rear will remain. The model was tested, it turned out very greasy, the lack of differentials, as it seemed to me, did not greatly affected his handling. I started for the body.
The housing was patched from PVC with a thickness of 2 mm and 5mm, I did not bother with a form and built something on the brick like, because if it broke up when testing, at least it would not be so sorry, but I turned out the first anti-wing. Well, naturally on the tests figured anti wing scattered, so I simplified it.
Well, as a result, the model goes quickly on off-road, it looks quite well in my opinion, in general, everything I wanted.
From purchased parts:
- Herb lugs of two types,
-Clastic chain Tamiya Ladder Chain Sprocket Set
- Flysky FS-GT3B 2.4 G 3CH and TP MG995 RC Metal Gear 55G SERVO High Speed \u200b\u200b& Torque 13kg
-Collective motor 380-of-type with a stroke regulator
From free details:
-Sealthy
-Tallic corners
Here's a video:
Here is a photo:







But the details that were not entered into the final design:

But the photo of my model next to the friend's model, by the way it is also homemade with the front-wheel drive




Here are the photos of the insides:












Yes, there were a lot of breakdowns, but I learned a lot on them:
1) It is better to use only cylindrical gears.
2) The fixed position of all gear is always better adjustable.
3) Plastic gears are better fixed through an intermediate metal part.
4) The four-wheel drive is still not a panacea, it is possible to ride well without it.
5) The scale of 1/16 nor for the construction, nor for pokatushek is not convenient, it is better to immediately build 1/10.

Did I succeed? In the construction of the model, it goes, even well. But I will not advise anyone to repeat this design, it's hard enough to do everything, and the reason for the prostrate was made almost in parallel with the model, and the action should never be ahead of thought. My task for the future is to design the chassis to participate in competitions.
From early childhood I am engaged in airmodelism, but it is not indifferent to the auto-makers. Unfortunately, I grew up already in such a generation, where the surprise is not made by branded automodels, but homemade. With the advent of massive toy and sports branded automodels, homemade devices Gradually left the track, now the car is something that stands on the showcase of a specialized store ... This is not satisfied with me. Understand, I'm not against purchased models, it's yourself, let them be, not to build homemade, I just don't like what the purchased models are completely displaced from the track homemade structuresBut initially auto-kinderism was sporting skillful guys who were not afraid to build complex and reliable structures.
Models of homemade, live, reunite, divert our kind of models!

1. Introduction
2. Types of automodels
3. DVS against electro. Comparison.

5. Batteries
6. Fuel
7. Body models
8. List of necessary things

1. Introduction

So you are interested in radio-controlled car models. Whether it is a model with an internal combustion engine (DVS) or models with an electric motor, this article will help determine what you like more, understand some general principles Works of the model and radio control and buy everything necessary for further operation.

First let's consider different types Automodel.

2. Types of automodels

Radio controlled models Cars can be classified as follows:

  • scale (size): 1:12, 1:10, 1: 8
  • by engine type: DVS (or nitro) (engine internal combustion) or electric motor (electric motor)
  • type of chassis: Highway, Formula 1, Buggy, Tract, Monster Tracks (or Monsters)

Consider everything in order:

Scale

The scale of the model is indicated by such as 1:10 (or 1/10). The most common scales - 1:10 and 1: 8. Scale 1:12 becomes quite rare. Popularity is gaining a scale of 1:18 (very popular among ordinary, poster models of cars), there are new models of both road vehicles and monsters.

There are no scales 1:24 and 1:28, in which MINI-Z is doing a Japanese Kyosho company, but these scales are approximate, they indicate as the average for the series.
And finally, the other extreme is the scale of 1: 5 are huge cars (about a meter long) with gasoline engines.

DVS (left) and electric motor. The proportions are not respected! Typically, the electric motor is much less than the DVS.

engine's type

The models are used as follows: the internal combustion engine (MOC, the term nitro is also used) and electric motors.
DVS (in the figure on the left) operate on a mixture of methanol, nitromethane and oil. This fuel is sold in the canister in model stores. It is better to use high-quality branded fuel so that the motor worked well and served for a long time. DVS are divided into classes in their working volume:

12th grade (2.11 cubic meters) - Light models scale 1:10
15th grade (2.5 cu. Cm) - highway 1:10, buggy, tract, monsters 1:10
18th grade (3.0 cm cm) - Buggy, Trackers, Monsters 1:10
21th grade (3.5 ccm) - Highway 1: 8, buggie and monsters 1: 8
25th grade (4.1 cubic meters) - Buggy and Monsters 1: 8

The name of the classes went from the American classification of volume in cubic inches. So, for example, the 15th class means that the volume of the engine is 0.15 cubic meters. inches. When recalculated into cubic centimeters, it turns out: 0.15 * 2.543 \u003d 2.458 cubic meters. cm, i.e. Approximately 2.5.

The higher the class, the greater the engine size, the higher the power. For example: the power of the engines of the 15th grade are approximately from 0.6 hp up to 1.2 hp The engines of the 25th grade are already 2.5 hp and more.

Electric motors (in the picture on the right) usually work from rechargeable batteries 7.2 V and above. Batteries are soldered from elements 1.2 V. Sell individual elements for spikes and ready-made batteries.
The electric motors are classified along the wire length wound inside (by number of turns) - 10 turns, 11 turns, 16 turns, 24 turns, etc. The smaller the number of turns of the "faster" engine.

Type of chassis

Chassis - base model. Everything is fixed on it important elements - engine, electronics, etc. Different types The chassis serve in various purposes and are being developed based on the scope.

Formula 1 - Designed for the development of high speeds and races along an absolutely smooth surface. Drive - rear (2wd), although there are models and with fully drive (4WD).

Buggy - For off-road races (sand, clay, gravel, dirt), can jump from springboards. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2wd).

Tracts - Looks like design on buggy, but have a greater ground clearance And more wheels. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2wd).

Monsters. - Have huge wheels and are able to overcome any obstacles and ride any surface. The high stroke of the suspension allows you to jump from high springboard and extract anything. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2wd).

Highway models - Can ride on a flat surface and have high speed and good handling. Drive - full (4WD), less often rear (2wd).

3. DVS (internal combustion engine) against electro. Comparison

Before you make a choice, you need to weigh all the "for" and "against" each type of engines. The correct understanding of the advantages and disadvantages of models with the electric motor and with DVS will help rationally spend money and avoid problems and disappointments. So:

Models with DVS.

Many DVS models are faster than models with an electric motor and can exceed the speed of 70-80 km / h. Be that as it may, the blow at a speed of 70 km / h in a curb or a wall can destroy the model completely or cause expensive repairs.

DVS for automodels - single-cylinder two-stroke enginesAnd this means that they need fuel (not gasoline, but special fuel). This means that you will have to regularly buy fuel to the model ( approximate price 4 liters of good fuel - 45 $, however, the canisters are enough for a long time). Plus models with internal combustion engine in that you can ride on it anyhow for a long time - the main fuel fuel into the tank. As a rule, models with DVS stand more expensive models with an electric motor (due to higher cost of the engine itself). Among the significant advantages of models with DVS is a realistic sound.

Models with electric motor

The main minus of electromodels - the battery sits quickly. You hardly manage to continuously ride more than 15 minutes on one charging. But besides a short time driving and a little lower maximum speed In the rest of the model with the electric motor turn out to be better. The main advantage of models with the electric motor is their silence, environmental friendliness and much better acceleration compared to models with DVS.

Be that as it may, you will have to buy some equipment to the model - batteries and charger. Batteries cost from $ 15 and differ in capacity and current output. Than better batteries, the higher the price, and it increases nonlinearly. Chargers operate either from 12V (feed from the cigarette lighter or battery ordinary car), or from 220V (network). There are charging devicewhich can work from 12 and from 220V.

4. Radio control (equipment)

No matter what type of chassis and what scale you will choose, you will need a system of radio-controlled model. Many firms make models part of their models in the form of RTR (Ready to Run) - ready to use directly from the box - they are usually already collected and include everything you need, including the control panel. However, some of the models are still sold in the form of a set for assembly and control equipment will have to be bought additionally. Let's consider the management principle of the model.

Radio control system Car model with electric motor:

3. If the racer turns the steering wheel, the receiver will send a signal servo (it is also called the servo), forcing it to turn it in the right direction. Through the system, this turn came to the rotation of the model of the model.

4. If the racer presses the trigger, the receiver sends the signal to the regulator (speed controller).

5. Speed \u200b\u200bregulator (still called the stroke controller, AIDS controller) changes the speed of the electric motor and, therefore, the model speed (the engine is connected to the wheels of the belt and / or cardan drives).

6. The battery is used to power the motor, servo 1, receiver and speed controller. If the electronic speed controller is standing on the model, the battery is connected to it, and the regulator distributes power to the motor, receiver and servo.

Radio control system of a car model with DVS:

1. When the racer presses the trigger or rotates the steering wheel on the control panel, the signal is sent to the model receiver.

2. The receiver receives a signal, processes it and sends a signal to the corresponding model devices.

3. If the racer turns the steering wheel, then the receiver will send a signal servo 1, forcing it to turn it in the desired side. Through the system, this turn came to the rotation of the model of the model.

4. If the racer presses the trigger, the receiver sends the Servo 2 signal.

5. Servo 2 moves the damper of the carburetor, which changes the flow of a mixture of fuel and air and, consequently, engine speed and model speed.

6. The battery is used to power the receiver, servo 1 and servo 2.

The elements shown above constitute a complete list of model radio equipment. All these elements are necessary to manage the model. Speed \u200b\u200bregulators are usually sold separately, and the control panel, the receiver and servo are sold both individually and all in one set.

5. Batteries

If you decide to buy a model with an electric motor, you will need batteries. In models of cars, 7.2V batteries are commonly used, which are soldered from 6 elements of 1.2V. There are currently widespread two types of batteries - nickel-cadmium (NICD) and nickel-metal hydride (NIMH). Each type has its advantages and disadvantages, but NiMH allows you to obtain a large battery capacity and practically do not have a "memory effect".

How batteries differ.

The batteries are characterized by many parameters - internal resistance, secondary voltage, discharge current, etc. The exact values \u200b\u200bof these parameters are given for expensive batteries for serious sports, for hobbies and amateur races you can not sharpen attention and buy accumulators more affordable. At the same time the most important parameters - The type of battery (NiCD or NIMH) and its capacity (measured in MAH, for example 2400 mAh), it is indicated on the batteries with large numbers. The higher the container, the longer you can ride on the model. The price, however, also increases ...

How many batteries buy?

To begin with, it would be good to buy 2-3 batteries, which will allow you to ride with the replacement of the batteries for quite a long time. As for the capacity - it is better not to buy batteries with a capacity of less than 1500mAh, and then the ride time will be quite small.

6. Fuel

Internal combustion engines for models cannot work on ordinary gasoline. They require special fuels based on methanol and with the addition of different quantities of nitromethane and oil. Nitromethane increases the return of the engine, its content in fuel for automodels is usually from 16 to 25%. The oil in the fuel promotes the engine lubrication and protect it from damage. On cannons with fuel, the content of nitromethane and the type of models for which this fuel is applicable is usually indicated.

7. Body models

Body for car models make from special plastic - polycarbonate (lexana). The body is pretty light and elastic, so as not to break at shuffles. Models can be sold both with the body and without. But you can always buy the body separately - the benefit of the great many bodies that copy a huge number of real cars.
The body is sold already painted or in an unpainted form (transparent). Transparent body color from inside with special paint for polycarbonate, which can be found in any store for model professions.

Body different manufacturers May differ in the degree of detail and strength: some bodies are well developed, accurately copy the original, but at the same time quite fragile. Other bodies contain less detail, but more elastic and racks to shock. If you are a novice, try to choose a more elastic body, because the accidents are first inevitable and happened more often than it seems at first glance.

+ =

8. List of necessary things

And finally, a complete list of what you should buy to the model for the full function, start and maintenance.

For model S. electric motor:

  • Chassis (with electric motor)
  • Radio control (the kit must contain 1 remote, 1 receiver and 1 servo)
  • Speed \u200b\u200bregulator (depends on the model motor, consult with the seller)
  • Batteries (buy at least 2 batteries, no less than 1500mAh capacity)
  • Charger

For model S. DVS:

  • Chassis (with engine)
  • Radio control (the kit must contain 1 remote, 1 receiver and 2 servo)
  • Batteries or batteries (for power receiver and servo, usually 4 pcs. Type AA)
  • Body (if included with the chassis it was not)
  • Paint for the body (better buy 2 springs)
  • Fuel
  • Bottle for fueling fuel in the tank model
  • The device for the glow of the candle (in English is called GlowStart)

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