5.3.7. Heater Fan Electric Mother Warning Cars are equipped with security systems (SRS), including airbags and seat belt tensioners. Before working near the shock sensors, the instrument panels and the steering column are first negative, and then the positive terminals from the battery and wait 2 minutes. This will exclude unauthorized opening of airbags and the trigger of safety belts that can cause injuries. Turn off the ignition and discovery ...
Replacing the power steering pump UAZ 3163 /
8.5.5. Replacing the steering hydraulic power supply pump: the keys "on 22", "on 27", a flat-blade screwdriver. 1. Remove the hydraulic pot pump drive belt (see "Replacing the steering of the steering of the steering and viscosity of the cooling system of the cooling system of the cooling system). 2. Remove the bolt fitting of the injection hose fastening ... 3. ... and disconnect the discharge hose from the pump. Note The compound of the injection hose with the hydraulic pressure pump is sealed with copper beds. Highly fasciated washers replace new ...
Replacing the pump hydraulic power steering UAZ 31519 /
8.5.7. Replacing the steering hydraulic power supply pump: Keys "at 17", "on 22". 1. Remove the hydraulic switch pump drive belt (see "Replacing the steering of the power steering pump and pulley of the cooling system"). 2. Remove the bolt fitting fastening of the injection hose ... 3. ... and disconnect the hose from the pump. Note On the parts of the car, the injection hose has a tube attached to the nut to the pump fittings. 4. Remove the bolt fitting of the suction sh ...
KIA Sportage / Cooling System Fan Drive Bearing Replacement
Replacing the bearing of the cooling system of the cooling system The execution order Remove the generator drive belt. Remove the fan impeller, then remove the fan drive pulley with the bearing assembly. 1 - impeller 2 - pulley release fasteners and remove the bearing assembly (1) from the engine block. With the help of a special puller and a suitable pumping, dismantle a driving pulley flange on the press. one ...
Cooling fluid replacement VAZ 1111 /
3.5. The replacement of the coolant plug for draining the coolant from the cylinder block is located above the oil tube of the globe, and the plug for drain drain from the radiator is on the right tank of the radiator under the sensor for turning the cooling system fan. You will need a key "on 13" Capacity for draining coolant Cooling fluid Warnings Funnel Use cooling fluids recommended by the manufacturer (see Appendix). Cooling fluid toxic, p ...
Replacing the front seal of the crankshaft Mercedes-Benz W163 (ML Class) /
Replacing the front gland crankshaft 1 - belt drive hinged units, 2 - fan diffuser, 3 - fan and viscous coupling assembly, 4 - bolt, 5 - crankshaft pulley, 6 - specialness, 7 - gland. 1. Remove the engine panel. 2. Remove the fan and viscous coupling in C6 mero 3. Remove the fan diffuser. 4. Remove the drive belt of attachments. 5. Remove the crankshaft pulley. 6. Remove the old crankshaft gland. Not...
Checking the status and replacement of the gas distribution belt - Models 2.0 and 2.5 l Subaru Legacy Outback /
Verification of the state and replacement of the gas distribution belt - Models 2.0 and 2.5 l Details of the installation of the gas distribution belt 1 - Right back cover of the TRP drive 2 - guide of the gas distribution belt (only models with RCPP) 3 - crankshaft wheel 4 - Left back timer cover 5 - gear Wheel of the right camshaft 6 - Intermediate Roller No. 1 7 - Tensioning Bracket 8 - Intermediate Roller No. 2 9 - Assembly Automatic ...
Cooling fluid replacement VAZ 2110 /
2.2. Replacing the cooling fluid General prevention information Replace the cooling fluid only on a cold engine. Cooling fluid toxic, so be careful when working with it. When the engine starts, the plug of the expansion tank must be closed. Replacing the coolant is shown on the mod motor. 2111. ORDER ORDER 1. Install the car on the horizontal level platform. If the playground has auxiliary ...
Replacing the timing belt Infiniti QX4 /
4.6. Replacing the timing belt do not bend and do not twist the belt! After removing the gas distribution belt, do not turn the crankshaft and distributional shafts In order to avoid damage to the internal components of the engine as a result of the entry of the valve strikes about the bottom of the pistons! Before installing the belt, thoroughly clean all the gear wheels of the timing wheel, completely removing the dirt, lubricant and moisture from them! Installing the gas distribution belt should be made on a cold engine! Details ...
Checking the status, removal and installation of the Toyota Land Cruiser cooling system fan /
Checking the status, removal and installation of the cooling system fan Try not to touch the blades of the impeller with hands, tools and elements of clothing. In order to avoid injury or equipment damage, do not start the engine with a faulty fan. Do not take attempts to repair broken impeller blades, change it assembly! Check Performance Order 1. Check the fan impeller for cracks, paying special attention The state of the base ...
Replacing the steering power steering pump and pulley fan cooling system UAZ 31519 /
8.5.1. Replacing the steering of the power steering pump and the fan pulley of the cooling fan will be required: "10" keys (two), "on 17" (one). 1. Loosen the two bolts of the fastening plate of the steering power plate pump. 2. Holding the key tensioning bolt from turning, loosen the nut and lower the pump down. 3. Remove the belt. 4. Install the new belt in order to remove. ...
Replacing the drive belt of the hydrogen generator 3163 /
10.4.3. Replacing the drive belt generators will need: "10" keys, "12". 1. Remove the steering hydroxidant pump drive belt (see "Replacing the steering hydraulic power supply drive belt and a viscosity cooling system of the cooling system fan). 2. Loosen on two or three turns tightening the tension roller mounting bolt. 3. Turning the adjusting bolt, loosen the belt tension ... 4. ... and remove it. 5. Install a new belt and, rotating a tensioning roller bolt, achieve a 15 mm belt deflection under load 80 N (8 kgf), ...
Replacing the drive belt generator UAZ 31519 /
10.4.4. Replacing the drive belt generators will need: "10" keys, "12". 1. Remove the steering hydroxidant pump drive belt (see "Replacing the steering of the steering of the power steering and the fan pulley"). 2. Loosen on two or three turns tightening the tension roller mounting bolt. 3. Turning the adjusting bolt, loosen the belt tension ... 4. ... and remove it. 5. Install the new belt and, rotating the tensioning roller bolt, achieve a 15-mm strap deflection under the load of 80 N (8 kgf) attached in the middle of the branch of the belt ...
Replacing the coolant Mercedes-Benz W210 (E Class) /
Replacing the coolant Warning during a hot engine can be obtained. Sequence of work 1. Gently remove the lid of the expansion tank. 2. Switch overpressure from the cooling system. 3. Heating control on dashboard Put on HEISS (hot). This opens the circuit of cooling the heating installation. 4. Remove the crankcase protection. 5. Submold the receiving capacity under the radiator and the engine, on the bottom of the radiator, unscrew the plum plug (Fig. 4.45) and drain the coolant. On the piece ...
Verification of the state and replacement of the Nissan Maxima QX / Water Pump /
Checking the condition and replacement of the water pump Checking the order of execution 1. The failure of the water pump is capable of entrusting the most serious consequences, up to the complete jamming of the engine as a result of overheating. 2. There are two ways to verify the operation of the water pump without removing it from the engine. The defective pump is subject to replacement. The first is the simplest: when working, heated to the normal operating temperature Dvig ...
Replacing the drive belt of the generator and water pump UAZ 31519 /
5.7. Replacing the drive belt of the generator and water pumps will be required: "10" keys, "at 12". 1. Remove the steering steering pump drive belt, pulley of the viscosity coupling and crankshaft pulley (see "Replacing the steering of the power steering pump and pulley of the cooling system"). 2. Loosen the tightening of the tension roller fastening bolt on two or three turns. 3. Turning the adjusting bolt, loosen the belt tension and remove it. 4. Install a new belt; Obupping the adjusting tensioner bolt, add ...
Verification, replacement and adjustment of the water pump drive belt and Mercedes-Benz W123 generator /
Check, replacement and adjusting the water pump drive belt and generator every 24000 km Check the drive belt and adjust its tension. Inspect the belt over its entire length to reveal the lengths of cracks and wear, and turn the engine to check the surface of the belt contact with the pulleys. Replace faulty belt. The order of execution on vehicles with steering amplifier, air conditioning system (compressor) should first remove their drive belts. Disconnect the Wire "Mass & ...
Replacing the Mercedes-Benz W210 Fuse (E Class) /
Replacing the fuse Sequence of work 1. If you need to replace the fuse, you can use the plastic tweezers, which is included in the set tool. 2. Remove the plugging fuse from the contacts by tweezers. 3. The new fuse in the same nominal insert into contacts. Keep track of contact reliability. 4. If the new fuse immediately overlaps, find out the table. 9.1, there was no fuse of a smaller nominal value than required. 5. If everything is correct, determine the table connected to the chain ...
How to replace the fan belts
Loosen the strap tensioner and remove old belts. Make sure that there are no fat and dirt in the grooves, install a new set of belts.
Install the fan and tighten the bolts with a torque of 46 nm. Adjust the desired tension of the fan belts (see the section "How to adjust the tension of the fan belts" on page 32) and install the fan protective fencing.
How to replace the alternating current belt
Remove the protective fenation fenation.
Remove six bolts fixing the fan and the hub assembly to the pulley; Then remove the assembly.
Unscrew the adjusting screws / bolts to loosen the tension of the generator belt, then remove the old belt. Make sure the pulley grooves are clean, then install a new belt.
Install the fan and tighten the bolts with a torque of 46 nm. Adjust the desired tension of the generator belt (see "How to adjust the AC generator belt tension" on page 33) and install the fan protective fencing.
How to check the crankshaft vibration
The vibration is a load located inside the housing filled with water. This cargo moves in the housing to limit the steep oscillation. Check the vibration agent for the presence of chosel, cracks or fluid leaks.
If you detected potholes, cracks or leaks, replace the damper.
The vibrationant is mounted on the crankshaft, located behind the fan of the engine in front of the engine. The procedure for removing and installing the vibration can be viewed in the repair manual.
Pottle of grounding
Check the quality of electrical wiring harness connections and the state of the harness themselves. Check the tightening pin of the ground pin (A1) at certain time intervals specified in the service schedule. Grounding pin is located below the ECM on the left side of the crankshaft. Grounding wire is located between the ground pin and the starter terminal (A2). For engines with a starter installed on the right side, or for engines without starter, the ground wire is between the ground pin and the negative terminal of the starter battery.
Before starting service work, disconnect the batteries.
Remove the nut that fastens the ground wire and pin (A1), then remove the ground wire itself and the ring gasket itself.
Check the torque torque. The pin must be tightened with the moment 47N (35 pound-power).
Notes:
When removing the pin, the short end must be screwed to the engine.
After removing the grounding wire, it must be installed again, and tighten the fixing nut with a moment of 30.5 ± 3.5 nm.
Clean the pin and the grounding wire with pure matter. If there are rust on the compounds, clean them with a solution of sodium and water and water.
Install the gasket and ground wire. Install the locking nut and tighten it with the moment 47 nm.
Save the pin and ground plate with clean and vaseline covered.
Connect batteries.
Hoses and their fasteners
Check if the hoses do not flow. Leaks can be caused by the following reasons:
Cracks
Softening hoses
Weakened fasteners
Check if there are no following damage:
Damaged or leaking end connections
External coating erased or cut
Open Wire, which is used for reinforcement
Outdoor coating
Flexible part of the hose is confused or crushed
Braid hit (pressed) into the outer coating
To replace the hose
A warning! Be careful during the removal of the cover of the filler neck, because The cooling system can be under pressure.
Stop the engine. Give it cool.
Smoothly unscrew the cooling system cover, removing the pressure. Remove the lid.
Note: Drain the coolant into a suitable clean container. Liquid can be used again.
Drain the coolant to the level below the hose that must be replaced.
Remove fasteners and remove the old hose.
Install a new hose.
Fill the cooling system to the desired level of the corresponding cooling mixture.
Clean the fuel cap and check the gaskets. Replace the lid if the gaskets are damaged. Install the plug-in cover into place.
Run the engine. Check if there are leaks in the cooling system.
How to clean the radiator
Check if the radiator plates are not damaged, is there any corrosion, dirt, fat, insects, leaves, oils and other garbage. If necessary, clean the outer part of the radiator.
A warning!
While working with compressed air, wear a protective mask and special clothes.
The maximum air pressure on the nozzle used for cleaning must be less than 205 kPa.
Remove the garbage of the jet of compressed air. Direct the air jet to the side opposite to the fan air flow. Keep the nozzles of approximately 6 mm (0.25 inches) from the plates. Smoothly move the nozzles in the direction parallel to the pipes to remove the garbage between them.
Also, water can be used to clean the radiator. The maximum pressure of water for cleaning should not exceed the value of 275 kPa. Do not keep the nozzles too close to the radiator, because This can lead to damage to the plates. You can soften dirt using water under pressure. Clean the central part on both sides.
Fat and oil remove with degreasing agent and steam. Clean the central part on both sides. Mercy of the central part, use using detergent and hot water. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
After cleaning the radiator, start the engine on high revolutions idle move. It will help to dry the central part and remove the garbage. Stop the engine and, by placing the light bulb in front of the central part of the radiator, inspect it. If necessary, clean again.
Check if the plates are not damaged. Check the condition of the welds, fastening brackets, connections and seals. Determine which repair is required to produce.
How to check engine fittings
Inspect the engine mounting reinforcement. Check if there is no damage or wear, also verify that the bolts are tightened at the desired torque. Engine vibration can be called:
Incorrect installation of the engine
Wear fasteners.
How to dry the cooling system
Warnings!
Do not remove the cover from the filler neck until the engine is hot and the system is under pressure, because Possible release of hot coolant.
Stop the engine and let it cool. Smoothly unscrew the cooling system cover, removing the pressure. Remove the lid.
Open the cooling system drain valve (if installed). If the cooling system is not equipped with a drain valve, disconnect the lowest hose.
Give a coolant drain.
How to clean the cooling system
A warning! Dispose of the coolant used in a special place, in accordance with regional standards.
Empty cooling system (see "How to dry the cooling system" on page 40).
Rinse the cooling system with a stream of clean water.
How to fill the cooling system
Attention:
In order to avoid air traffic jams, fill the cooling system is not faster than 19 l / min.
If the recommended coolant and the instructions given in this manual are not used, Perkins Engines Company Limited is not responsible for damage caused by frost, corrosion or loss of cooling efficiency.
Fill in the cooling system with a mixture of PowerPart ELC (enhanced service cooling fluid); See "Cooling fluid" on page 51. Do not install the cover of the neck.
Run the engine and let it work at idle 1 minute to exclude air from the cavities of the engine block. Stop the engine.
Check the coolant level. It is necessary to ensure that the coolant is present at the bottom of the filling nozzle in the expansion tank.
Clean the cooling system of the cooling neck. Check the gasket on the cover of the plug-in neck. If the gasket is damaged, replace the lid. If the gaskets are not damaged, check the cover pressure using the appropriate pressure check kit. The desired pressure of the neck covers is printed on its face. If the throat cover does not hold the required pressure, install a new lid.
Run the engine. Check if there are leaks in the cooling system, also check if the desired workload is installed.
The valve gap is measured between the rocker and the valve bridge. Measurement is performed on a cold and stopped engine (see also chapter "How to check / configure electronic nozzles" on page 45).
Remove the rocker lid.
Remove the upper bolt (A1) from the lid (A2) on the handwheel cover and loosen the other bolt of the cover to open it. The upper bolt (A1) is synchronizing.
Attention: If at the request of the customer, the speed sensor is set on the handwheel casing, it must be removed before using the engine turning tool.
Remove the plug (A3) from the location of the synchronizing bolt on the handwheel casing and install the synchronizing bolt.
Insert the engine tool to turn the engine (CH11148) into the flywheel casing through the hole at the bottom of the A2 lid). Together with the tool for turning, use 1/2-inch ratchet to rotate the flywheel in the normal direction of rotation (counterclockwise, if you look from the flywheel side). Rotate the engine while the synchronizing bolt is locked in the threaded hole of the flywheel. Now the cylinder 1 piston is in the TDC position (top dead dot).
nights: If the flywheel turns through the threaded hole, it must be rotated in the opposite direction by 45 degrees, and then back in the usual direction until the synchronizing bolt is fixed in the threaded hole. So You will eliminate the backlash.
Check the inlet and exhaust valves of the cylinder number 1. If they are completely closed, the piston is in the NMT tact of compression, and the rocker can be moved by hand. If the rockers do not move your hand due to the partially open valves, it means that the piston is on the exhaust tact. When the piston is on the exhaust tact, remove the synchronizing bolt and turn the flywheel for another 360 degrees in the normal direction so that the cylinder number 1 moves to the upper dead point of the compression tact, then insert the synchronizing bolt to the place.
Before you begin to adjust the valve gaps, make sure that the roller of the roller is located exactly opposite the position of the lift of the crankshaft cam.
To check the gaps of pushers inlet valves (C1) of cylinders 1, 2, and 4, use a set of probe inserted into the position (B3) between the valve bridge and the rocker pin. If necessary, adjust the gaps. Check the gap of the exhaust valves (C2) of cylinders 1, 3, and 5, adjust if necessary.
Notes:
Before inserting the dipstick, move the valve bridge to exclude the oil film effect.
During execution, make sure that the probe is fully inserted.
After the adjustment of the gaps on all cylinders, tighten the fixing nut (B2) of the adjusting screw (B1) with a torque of 30 ± 4 nm.
Remove the synchronizing bolt and turn the flywheel for 360 degrees in such a way that the piston number 6 was in the upper dead point of the compression tact. Re-insert the synchronizing bolt into the threaded hole.
Check the inlet valves (C1) of cylinders 3, 5, and 6. Adjust the gaps if necessary. Check out the gaps of exhaust valves (C2) cylinders 2, 4, and 6. Adjust the gaps if necessary.
After the adjustment of the gaps on all cylinders, tighten the fixing screw nut (B1) with a torque of 30 ± 4 nm.
Check the valve gaps again for all six cylinders.
Install the crop cover. Remove the engine tool and synchronizing bolt, then install the handwheel cover.
Insert the plug into the location of the synchronizing bolt.
How to check / set up electronic nozzles
This operation should be made at the same time as checking the gaps of the pusher valve.
A warning! The electric chain of the fuel nozzle works from the voltage of 110 V. Before you start working with the fuel injector, turn off the power supply of the ECM.
After removing the rocker lid, install the piston number 1 into the upper dead point of the compression tact. Check / Adjust the height of the fuel injectors of cylinders 3, 5, and 6.
To obtain the desired height of the fuel nozzle, use the fixing probe fuel injector. The height of the nozzle is measured from the peak of the nozzle (A1) to the processed protrusion of the nozzle housing (A2). This size should be 78.0 +/- 0.2 mm. Loosen the locking nut and with the help of the rocker tuning screw, set the desired size. Tighten the fixing nut with the moment 55 +/- 10 nm.
Remove the synchronizing bolt from the flywheel casing and turn the flywheel by 360 degrees in the normal direction of rotation of the engine until the bolt falls into the threaded hole. At the same time, the piston number 1 will be in the upper dead point of the state of the exhaust.
Check / Adjust the height of the fuel injectors of cylinders 1, 2, and 4, as indicated in clause 2.
When all the settings are made, remove the synchronizing bolt, install the handwheel cover cover and the plug in the location of the synchronizing bolt, as well as the rumor lid.
Engine protection devices
The engine is equipped with a device electronic controlwhich monitors all critical temperatures and pressures in the engine and stop it in case of critical failures.
If any sensor fails, the diagnostic indicator is activated. In this case, you need to contact your dealer, because The failure can be identified by using the PERKINS (EST) electronic service tool.
Visual inspection
Viewing the condition of all meters (probe), sensors and wiring. Track out so that there are no weakened, broken or damaged wires and parts. Damaged wiring or items must be immediately fixed or replaced.
How to replace cooling thermostats
Replace the thermostats with the frequency specified in the service schedule. This is recommended preventive maintenance practice.
A warning!
Do not remove the cover of the filler, while the engine is hot, and the system is under pressure, because It is possible to pour hot coolant.
Dispose of the coolant used in a special place, in accordance with regional standards.
Attention!
Refusal to replace thermostats to the time specified in the service schedule can lead to serious engine damage.
The engine must only work when installed thermostats. If the thermostats are installed incorrectly, the engine can overheat.
Drain the coolant to the level below the thermostat housing (A1).
Disconnect the cable (A3) from the coolant temperature sensor.
Loosen hose mounting clamps (A2) and disconnect the tube and clamp from the top of the block.
Loosen the five bolts on the thermostat housing; Then completely remove the three bolts (A4) that fasten the thermostat case to the cylinder head.
Carefully raise the assembly, separating it from the cooler bobbin in its base.
Remove the two remaining short bolts, separate the two half of the assembly and remove the thermostats.
Carefully clean both sides of the assembly and check the condition of clarity (edge) seals. Replace seals if they are worn or damaged.
Install new thermostats. Make sure they are inserted correctly. Install a new sealing ring into a groove of the thermostat case (B1), collect two half of the device and secure two short bolts.
Make sure the docking surface of the cylinder head is clean.
Install new cooler bobbin (B5), installed on the base of the unit, and lubricate seals with a small amount of lubricant for rubber.
Install a new sealing ring into the groove on the docking surface of the case, then set the assembly to the reel.
Insert three bolts (B4), fastening the thermostat case to the cylinder head
Consistently and evenly tighten all five bolts with a moment of 38 nm.
Connect the hose to the top of the case and tighten the hose clamp (B2).
Connect the cable (B3) to the coolant temperature sensor.
Fill in the cooling system (see "How to fill the cooling system" on page 40).
How to clean and calibrate engine speed / engine injection angles
Disconnect the wiring harness from the sensor and remove the two speed sensors / injection corner, located on the left side of the engine from the back of the gearbox.
Check without worn / whether the plastic ends of the sensors are contaminated.
Clean the facial surface of the sensors from metal chips and other garbage.
Install the sensors to the desired location and connect the wiring harnesses.
Note: If a new ECM has been installed, or the gear has been replaced or disassembled and again collected, then the engine speed / angle sensors must be calibrated (see Setting the engine injection angle in the diagnostic manual).
How to check turbochargers
With a certain frequency specified in the service schedule, disconnect and remove the tubes between air filter and turbocompressors. In this case, the engine must be turned off and should not be hot. Quickly turning the assembly of the rotor of each turbocharger, check whether the rotor moves freely, and does any interference arise. If necessary, contact your Perkins dealer.
Attention: The refusal of turbocharger bearings can cause a large amount of oil into the inlet and air intake. Lack of lubricant may cause serious engine damage.
The minimum leakage in the housing of the turbocharger under the action of a long low load should not cause problems if the turbocharger bearings were not denied.
Attention: When the bearing failure is accompanied by a significant loss of engine power (smoke on exhaust or increase speed when there is no load), stop the engine and do not renew the operation until the turbocharger is repaired or replaced.
Naar cannot be removed from the turbine wheels without adverse action on the impeller of the turbocharger or on the system balancing.
Check if there are leaks in the oil supply tubes and drain tubes.
Check if there are air leaks during the engine operation.
Removing and installing turbocharger
For detailed information on the installation and removal of the turbocharger, see the manufacturer's manual.
How to check charging generator Battery.
Check if there are no lowered generator connections. Check the ammeter (if installed) while the engine is running to make sure the battery and / or electrical system have the right characteristics. Clean the outer surface of the generator and make sure that the ventilation openings are clean.
The generator must be checked and, if necessary, repaired by the personnel who have passed the appropriate training, with the frequency specified in the service schedule.
How to check starter
Check the electrical starter connections and clean them. Check that the starter is valid.
The starter must be checked and, if necessary, repaired by the staff, which passed the appropriate training, with the frequency specified in the service schedule.
How to check the coolant pump
Check if there are leaks in the coolant pump. If leakage is detected, replace the pump laying or the pump itself. For assembly and disassembly procedures, see the repair manual.
If you need to make any repair or replacement, contact your dealer or look at the information in the repair manual.
Notes:
A minor coolant leak through the facial seal in the aqueous pump is the norm. Her goal is to provide the sealer lubrication.
In the body of the water pump there is a hole for draining the coolant. A small amount of fluid can periodically flow from the drain hole during engine operation.
Traces of a minor leakage through the drain hole do not talk about the pump failure. The existence of coolant spots or periodically emerging drops from the hole indicate normal pump operation.
How to remove air from fuel system
This procedure is usually used while the engine is running without fuel.
Unscrew the fuel return tube fitting (A1). Unlock the hand pump pump. Using the pump, pump a manually fuel until it starts to flow out of the fitting (there should be no air in the fuel). During this procedure, the piston of the pump makes many moves. To collect redundant fuel, use a fabric or container.
Tighten the fitting (A1). Take advantage of manual pumping pump. When you feel strong pressure, push the pump plunger inside. Tighten the plunger manually and immediately go to the next step.
Run the engine
Attention: Do not rotate the engine continuously more than 30 seconds. Give the starter to cool for 2 minutes before rotating the engine again.
If the engine does not start, allow the starter to cool for 2 minutes. To start the engine, repeat the steps 1 and 2. Continue to remove air from the fuel system if:
The engine started, but it works unevenly.
The engine started, but continues to skip ignition or smoke.
Run the engine without load until it starts to work smoothly.
Water quality
Under mild water, non-ionized water, distilled water, rainwater or water from a centralized source, which satisfies the following parameters:
Chlorides: 40 mg / l max; Sulfates: mg / l max; Total hardness: 170 mg / l max; The total solid phase content: 340 mg / iMax and pH (indicator of the degree of acidity of the medium): 5.5-9.0.
If you have any doubts about these indicators, contact your local company for the supply and processing of water.
The refusal to use soft water can affect the cooling system in the form of solid deposits, which, in turn, can lead to overheating of the engine. This is especially important for engines in which the coolant is added frequently.
Using the cooling system of unverified products can cause serious problems. The use of a cooling mixture with an insufficient amount of anti-corrosion additive can cause erosion and / or corrosion of the cooling system parts.
Specifications on lubricant
In the 2806 engine, 15W40 lubricating oil can be used, which corresponds to the characteristics of the CG-4 API. Oils with higher technical characteristics The API CH-4 has a greater possibility of controlling the plantation and resistance to wear, which leads to a longer engine life.
Preferably use oil API. CH-4, however, as an alternative, is permissible to use the CG-4 API.
If the amount of sulfur in fuel is less than 0.2%, then the oil replacement period is 500 hours. The use of fuel with a large level of sulfur will reduce oil life (determined by the analysis conducted by the customer and a reliable analysis service).
Guarantee
The engine must work using approved fuels, lubricants and coolant, in addition, it is necessary to carry out maintenance in accordance with the service schedule; Otherwise, the warranty may be annulled.
Engine fluids
Technical parameters of fuel
Diesel fuel must comply with one of the following standards:
ASTM D975 NO 1-D or NO 2-D
BS 2869: Part 2 1998 class A2
General requirements for fuel: maximum sulfur content - 0.2%; Minimum cetane number - 45.
Fuel purity
Modern high-pressure fuel injection systems used in the 2800 series engines require a high fuel purity level to ensure proper and reliable operation.
The fuel must meet all aspects of the ASTM D975 specification, but the difference of the number 2-D is the requirement for water content and precipitate less than 0.05%. Fuel should not have a biological fouling. If there is suspicion of biological fouling, contact PERKINS to discuss suitable measurements and action programs. With long-term fuel storage, recommendations, data in ASTM D975 must be performed if possible.
The use of fuel that does not correspond to the above standards may cause: difficulties when starting, incomplete combustion, Nagar on fuel injectors Or a combustion chamber, a decrease in the life of the fuel system and filters, a decrease in the engine life and may affect the warranty. More detailed information can be obtained in the PERKINS service department.
On the car Engine Installed hinged equipment (generator, air conditioner compressor), driven by a polyclinite belt. Over time, the product is wearing and cracks, which can lead to a rupture. The need to change the generator belt can independently arise if the trouble happened on the road and away from the service.
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When should I change the generator belt?
The frequency of replacement of the drive belt of the electric generator is indicated in the car maintenance instructions. It should be remembered that the period on one machine supplied to various markets may differ. This is due to different climatic conditions and dusting of air, which additionally destroy the material of the product.
For example, the company Volvo recommends performing a primary replacement after 80 thousand miles of run, and each subsequent shifts are performed after 60 thousand km. At the same time, on the car from the European market, the belt is changing every 180 thousand km. On VAZ cars, the product rarely serves more than 30 thousand km of mileage.
A typical sign of an elongated belt becomes a whistling occurs when the engine starts or after driving on the puddle. The source of the sound is the material of the strap, slipping along the surface of the pulley. Usually, the whistle quickly disappears and occurs again when the motor starts or after the next puddles. In this case, the owner must check the belt tension and try to bring it to the standard.
Worn belt (right)
What affects wear?
The factors affecting the drive belt resource:
- Conditions of the product. Dust, abrasives or chemicals are noticeably reduced by the strap resource. Negatively affects the material long operation at low air temperatures.
- Structure of pulleys. The appearance of beats or deformations leads to the destruction of the paths and the edges of the belt.
- Tension. With a reduced or excessive tension, the belt is wearing accelerated.
- Date of belt release. Rubber is susceptible to aging, so the strap can collapse, being in the package in the warehouse. Additional negative impacts have violations of storage rules.
- Belts manufacturer. There are products made by small companies from low-quality materials. Such straps can be collapsed in several thousand km of mileage.
Signs of belts wear and replacement of the product are demonstrated in a video shot by the author of Vladimir Bazekin.
How to check the belt?
Check the status of the belt follows not only when the whistle appears, but periodically. Most automakers recommend visual monitoring of the status of the strap and stretching every 6 months or 25 thousand km of mileage. In this case, it does not matter - the car is operated or standing in the parking lot.
Approximate verification sequence:
- Open car hood. Located on the side of the crankshaft pulley. It is necessary to check the status and stretching, without approaching the hand to the cooling system fans. This is due to the fact that the start of the fan can occur at any time, even on a cold engine.
- Visual status check is made by turning the inner part of the belt to light. Invalid cracks, abrasion and stratification of the product. If damage appears on a small area, the belt is considered unsuitable for further operation. The element is pulled by the scrolling of the crankshaft for the central nut.
- The tension is checked by measuring the deflection under load of 10 kg. When the distance between the pulleys axes up to 300 mm, the deflection arrows should be 6 mm. When the distance between the axes in the range of 300-450 mm is allowed to deflection 12 mm.
Check the tension of the generator belt can be filled maximum load, i.e., turning on all energy users except the starter. If the whistle does not occur, the tension is sufficient.
How to pull the belt
If there are no cracks and snaps on the belt surface, then you can try to pull it. Similar procedure is relevant for cars russian production and foreign cars equipped with a mechanical manual tensioner, which is often the generator itself. The belt is tensioning until the cesspillation of pulleys stops. At the same time, the car enthusiast should remember that excessive tension loads and displays them.
If the strap stretch does not allow for normal operation, the item is subject to replacement. It is forbidden to install spacers for tension rollers that will allow you to choose an excessive strap length.
Instructions for replacing the drive belt
Replacing the generator drive belt does not cause problems to most car enthusiasts. After removing the worn strap, it is recommended to examine the character of wear. If there are damage to the edges and the contact part, it may indicate the incidence of pulleys. In this case, you need to find a damaged element and replace it. Installing a new belt on a damaged pulley is meaningless, because the rubber will be quickly worn about sharp edges. When replacing the strap, you need to adhere to the vehicle recommended by the manufacturer.
During the replacement of the generator drive belt, the installation of a new tensioning roller and the associated fasteners may be required. Information on the list of parts to be replaced can be obtained in the repair and operation of the car.
What do you need to replace?
Before changing the generator belt, you will need to prepare a set of tools and materials (the maximum list is given):
- wrench and heads;
- new belt I. tension roller;
- rod for fixing the roller;
- mounting blade for belt removal;
- protective gloves;
- sheet of paper and pencil for drawing installation scheme.
A new non-original drive belt can have a large length of several millimeters than a complete product. The difference in length will be compensated by a tensioner.
Scheme
Installing the belt on engines with two or three pulleys of complexity is not available. The situation changes when the belt is installed on the motor, equipped with a large number of pulleys. In this case, it is recommended to draw a scheme of installation of the product. Such an event will speed up the installation process and avoid errors.
An example of a belt laying on Chevrolet Cobalt Scheme designations:
- 1 - crankshaft pulley;
- 2 - the pulley of the generator;
- 3 - guide roller;
- 4 - air conditioning compressor coupling;
- 5 - Pump pulley and an additional pulley of the amplifier pump drive;
- 6 - belt;
- 7 - tensioning roller.
Algorithm of action
The procedure has differences depending on the engine design and the number of hinged equipment. Below are given step by step instructions Replacing belts on common cars. On other vehicles, the operation occurs in a similar technology.
By car VAZ Grant
Replacing the belt on the car VAZ grant without a tensioner can be algorithm:
- Crop the old strap with a knife.
- Rotate for 3-4 turns of the generator fastening bolt below.
- Release the top mounting bolt completely and remove it out of the hole.
- Suppress the generator forward to the installation of the fastener ear for the bracket.
- Fix the mechanism with a wire or other way.
- Wear a belt on the pulley of the generator and the upper part of the crankshaft pulley. Some car owners use an additional fixture that holds the strap on the device in the process of putting on.
- Turn the engine shaft by a wrench for full belt dressing.
- Fix the generator on a regular place. Check the operation of the nodes when the generator is fully loaded and the crankshaft rotation frequency.
At Kia Sid.
Change the generator belt as follows:
- Unscrew the locking bolt located on the top of the generator.
- Raise the lock up, withdrawing a bolt from the guide groove.
- Rotate the device relative to the lower bolt. If the fastening "is lucky", the generator turns with light blows with a hammer, apparently via a wooden bar.
- Remove wear belt and clamping roller.
- After that, you need to mount a new video and only then you can wear a belt.
- Tighten the strap in accordance with the recommendations of the instruction manual. Check the operation of the node, when the whistles appear slightly increase the tension.
On Volkswagen Polo Sedan
An example of replacing the belt on the engine Volkswagen Polo sedan equipped with an automatic tensioner:
- Loosen the strap stretch using the tension roller fixation bolt. Nut size 16 mm.
- Turn the roller mounting bracket counterclockwise. The turn passes with the effort, since the stretch spring is compressed.
- Gently remove the belt from the crankshaft pulleys and drive units.
- Dismantle the roller with a 16 mm head, inserted into the recess under the generator. If the tension roller does not change, then it is fixed in the spin position using a metal rod inserted into the housing hole.
- Dress the belt on the pulleys, then carefully release the tension roller. The tensioner automatically adjusts the level of the product tension.
Video "Maintenance and Replacing the Generator Belt"
The maintenance and replacement of the generator belt is shown in the video tutorial shot by the Avto-Blogger channel. RU.
The main problem with the wear of the drive belts at the initial stage becomes various symptoms and suits during the rotation of the pulleys transmitting to the engine attachment. In the event of creak and whistles in a short time, one of the drive belts may break. We offer you detailed information about these types of belts in modern cars. Our directory will help you to find out when it is necessary to change the drive belts, how to determine the degree of their wear, what is the difference between the drive belt and which is the average cost of drive belts on Russian market, as well as get answers and other issues related to these belts.
First, let's put all the points over "I", finding out what drive belts are.
Drive belt car - This is an element of belt transmission, a working part of vehicles and mechanisms that serves to transmit torque engine.
The transmission of torque occurs due to the friction forces or the forces of the engagement ( tooth belts, Wedge-shaped belts).
There is an erroneous opinion that it does not apply to drive belts. But actually it is not. The timing belt also refers to the category of driving belts.
Drive belts are divided into several types:
Timing belt (belt drive gas distribution mechanism)
Drive belts of auxiliary components (engine attached equipment)
There are three types of automotive belts:
Thanks to the rotation of the generator, electricity is produced, which supports the work of the entire electrical equipment of the car.
Also in many modern cars, the same belt type is used to transmit torque on the electric power steering amplifier, the cooling fan, on water Pompe (coolant pump), on the air conditioner compressor and on the classic steering wheel hydraulic. Since the belt is subjected to colossal load and constant temperature drops, it is usually made of a rigid rubber and a metal core, which ensures the strength and durability of the belt. Also, many belts have a durable textile thread allowing a high torque to withstand a belt.
So every car besides the timing belt (in some cars, the gas distribution mechanism circuit is also used) has one or more belt drives (depending on the technical features of the car), ensuring the performance of the engine attachment.
If the drive belt has cracks (consequences)
If your car (or belts) wear out, they will have on the surface of the crack and scuff. As a result, a whistle will begin to appear during their movement. In this case, the time of their planned replacement has come. Remember that if you do not change the drive belt during, then you risk staying without workable car equipment. For example, if the life of the belt has expired due to serious wear, it is sooner or later will naturally break.
As a rule, when breaking the drive belt, you will hear a loud cotton from under the hood. As a result, the equipment that received a torque from it will cease to function. For example, if the drive belt is broken, the supply generator will stop, it will stop and nourish everything electrical equipment car. In the end, you will see the battery icon on the dashboard on the dashboard.
Also from the belt cliff will stop the hydraulicel. As a result, your steering wheel will rotate very hard. But the main problem when the drive belt break is the absence of rotation of the water pump, which contributes to the circulation of the coolant on the engine cooling system. As a result, the engine can quickly overheat. In this case, you must immediately stop moving and turn off the engine.
Therefore, while driving, constantly monitor the engine temperature sensor, which should show the same temperature of 90 degrees. If you see that the temperature arrow went up and approaches the dangerous red zone, then it is necessary to stop and, turning off the engine to diagnose the cooling system.
Attention! Overheating of the engine can lead to its failure (damage to the oil-circulation cap, failure of the block gasket, damage to the piston system). Therefore, do not allow in any case controlling the engine temperature on the dashboard.
What does the service life of the drive belts depend on?
Modern drive belts have enough due to their design from modern reliable materials. On average, the quality belt can serve up to 25,000 hours of operation. Please note that the service life is specified in the clock, and not in kilometers, since the kilometer does not directly affect the service life of the drive belts. After all, these belts are in motion even when the car stands still, and the engine is working at idle.
But this is in theory, and according to information provided by manufacturers of belts for consumers.
In practice, the service life of the drive belt may differ significantly from the manufacturer's declared. The fact is that many factors affect the wear of the drive belts. For example, an important role in long service The belts serves as it was installed on the car. For example, not uncommon when trying to plant a strap on the pulley with a screwdriver. As a result, the new belt is damaged and will not be able to serve that the term that the manufacturer declares. Such a method for installing the drive belt is also used to speed up the replacement process so as not to remove the pulley.
In addition, for the service life of the belts affects the storage conditions of components in the warehouse and their transportation. For example, it is not uncommon when in the auto shops sell drive belts with an expired shelf life. Yes Drive belts have. The fact is that the chemical composition of the materials of the drive belts changes over time. And if the drive belt was produced 5 years ago and was incorrectly stored in the warehouse, then when it was installed, it will not last for a car.
Also on the durability of belts in the car can influence the weather. For example, if you live in a hot climate, then you often use air conditioning. This means that the air conditioner compressor should receive. As a result, the belt transmitting the torque on the air conditioner compressor is experiencing an increased load.
Including driving belts can quickly wear out if the car is operated in cold weather for a long time. For example, in winter time Electrical equipment of the machine is required greater than in warm weather.
As a result, the generator requires more energy to maintain the operability of the power grid in vehicle. As a result, the generator belt is experiencing an increased load due to an increase in torque.
As a rule, in a new car, drive belts serve longer, since all the necessary storage conditions were met in the factory and before installation. After replacing the factory drive belts, the life of the belts is reduced.
Each automaker in the technical documentation and the service book typically indicates regulatory work when it is necessary to plan to replace the drive belts. Therefore, we advise you to carefully read the list of planned technical inspections and regulations for replacing consumables. As a rule, the manufacturer indicates a limiting kilometer, in which the drive belts should be replaced in the Master Technical Center. Thus, you approximately learn the deadlines for drive belts. But this does not mean that you should not regularly inspect the state of the belts. About this below.
Regular verification of drive belts
Periodically, each car owner must check the condition of all drive belts and their stretch. To do this, it is necessary to check the belts with your finger at the engine turned off. For example, by pressing your finger on the belt, you can understand whether the belt drive is weakened. Remember that the belt at the same time does not have to move (shift by 1-2 cm). If you see a similar one, then the blame is a weak belt stretch. You should also touch the belt to damage. Visual inspection is also needed on the subject of chips, cracks and ribbon elements.
In addition, use a pocket flashlight that will make an overview not only better, but can help reveal the lighted belt areas (as a rule, the belt portion will be blushing).
In any case, if you see damaged strap areas, then it must be replaced in any case to a new one. Please note that purchasing new drive belts you do not need to acquire original consumables. There are many non-original belts on the market, which in quality often even exceed the factory originals. For example, Continental has proven perfectly well, which is the largest supplier of drive belts.
The average cost of replacing the belt in the auto repair shop is about 2500 rubles. The belts for the car depends on the fame of the brand and the cost of products. The market is present, both cheap drive belts and expensive, which have a special design and are able to withstand extreme loads.
How to pull, tighten or loosen the drive belt
If the cause of the whistle, squeal or the screens is the belt, which is weakened, as a result of which he slipped on the pulleys, if the belt does not have or damage, in order to remove the outside sound, you must tighten the belt.
On the example of the belt, the generators are done using an adjusting special bolt (on modern cars) or using an adjusting plank (on older machines).
For example, to pull the generator belt on a modern car you need to do the following:
- Loosen a little fastening bolts of the generator (upper and lower fastening)
- Turn the adjusting bolt towards the time of the clockwise, the removal of the generator from the engine block and immediately checking the belt tape level
- Then staring the nuts of the fasteners of the generator
Please note that in some car systems, the process of pulling belts, too time-consuming and requires the use of a special tool.
Attention . In the market and in many cars at the moment, the spread of a new generation of polyclinic elastic belts was obtained. For example, one of the well-known global manufacturers like belts is ELAST. Their products have proven themselves in the best way. This company is the official supplier of many auto plants. Elastic polyclinic belts do not require stretching and pulling, etc. Thanks to their design and material, such belts are not stretched. As a rule, such drive belts serve about 120,000 mileage kilometers.
But for its initial stretch, a special tool is required.
In many cars, special belt tension rollers are also used, which eliminates drivers from constant tightening belts. The only drawback of such a design is, as a rule, when replacing the drive belts, it is also necessary to change the tensioning roller, since it is not possible to reuse with the new belt.
Replacing drive belts in the technical center
How can I replace temporarily drive belts in the event of a vehicle breakdown on the track?
Unfortunately, to temporarily replace the drive belts in case of climbing on the track, in modern cars it is impossible. In old cars, with such a problem, women's tights sometimes helped. But these times went away. When cutting the drive belts you will need technical assistance.
Welcome!
This detail links the pulley of the generator with the crankshaft pulley and the pulley of the water pump on the classic models. On the front drive vehicles, the pulley of the pump binds the timing belt. The broken belt of the generator on the classics will cause poorly working devices, because the energy will only go from the battery, respectively, with a bad charge, the instruments will be racing. On the contrary, if the battery is powerful and fairly charged, then for some time the devices will not go out and you can even not notice that the belt broke. And then it is necessary to remember about the pump and pay attention to it, since the belt binds it, it means that the break will lead to the cessation of the circulation of the coolant in the system and the machine will begin to warm much.
Note!
You will need the following tools: mounting blade (comfortable thick stick or small metal Lom.), Wrench keys will be needed on "on 17" and "at 19".
Location belt
Located in the front of the car. The photo of the red arrow shows the radiator of the cooling system and the bar on which the battery is standing (now removed). The belt connecting the three pulley is indicated in the photo of a blue arrow.
When to change the belt?
The main reason is the wear: various kinds of cracks, worn edges, stared teeth. We do not recommend tightening with the replacement of the belt, otherwise the gap will lead to the overheating of the engine and even boiling during the strong heat. The battery will quickly be discharged in the absence of support from the generator, which will stop spinning and give energy.
Note!
Have you ever had to hear the whistle of the car? The sound gives the timing belt, it arises for various reasons:
- strong wear often leads to a whistle;
- water or any liquid falling on it (for example, the coolant falls on the belt when the cooling system of the cooling system, which give to flow. Recognize the problem will help the inspection of the belt and pulleys for moisture);
- weak belt tension (adjustment will come to the rescue, read below);
- low belt quality, it is a straight oak belt (by the way, it hardens in the frost).
Most cars in the winter season are published by a whistle at the Motor's institution, and the driving machine is no longer whistles - a sign of the belt belt.
The video below can save you in emergency situation: If the belt suddenly breaks, there is no spare - an ordinary belt or tie will come to the aid! Look in detail in the roller and wind on the mustache, you never know, everyone will come in handy in life.
Change the belt on the VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107
Removal
Note!
Removing the battery will make it easier to access the belt. The process is described in the article: "Replacing the battery on cars."
Evaluate appearance belt. In the case of a good condition, check the tension, tighten it if necessary. Check easy: Lift your hand strap with an effort of 10 kg in any place. Either the distance "A" distance to which the belt should bended will be 10-15 mm, or in the place "in" 12-17 mm (see picture).
Note!
It is more convenient to stay and check the deflection at the point "A". Any deviation from the norm requires belt suspender. Remember, do not remove the belt from the pulleys if you are not going to replace!
Move into the lower car and one turnover, screw the lower nut of the generator (see little photo), get out of the car and go to okrug concrete space. On one or two turns loosen the nut upper fastening Generator (red arrow in the photo), will help you extension cardanian hinge And the cape head (tools are shown by the blue arrow). Weaken through the battery installation bar.
Note!
The upper nut, the fastening generator to the bar for all is twisted differently, so you feel that the nut goes easily (you do not turn it out completely), then immediately stop unscrewed!
Go directly to the shift of the belt. Move the generator to the engine and remove the belt. If you just need to adjust, then insert the assembly blade between the engine itself and between the generator itself (see the photo below), and, using the shovel as a lever, shift the generator from the engine. Holding the shovel in this position, tighten the top nut fastening the generator to the bar and the bottom too. Release the blade and remove it, check the belt tension and, if necessary, do the operation again (in the event that the tension does not fit the norm).
Installation
At the beginning, the belt is installed on the crankshaft pulley. In the image above, see the pulley is specified by the number 3, the pulley of the generator number 2 and the pulley of the digit pump 1. To the end, slide the generator to the engine, if it is shifted, but the belt is still not installed, then neatly scroll through the pump pulley (upper), or in the extreme Case Ask the assistant to take advantage of the crooked starter scrolled a little pulley, and at this time you put the belt to the top pulley of the pump.
Note!
Attach a video about adjusting the belt tension, pleasant viewing!
