Toys are now interested not only by children. Many adults acquire accurate copies of auto-known brands or fit radio-controlled models machines. Media of the proposed assortment of toy stores can not always be found the option that will fully arrange a client. In some cases, it is much better to make a radio-controlled machine model yourself, your child will appreciate your efforts. The present gathered with his own hands from the primary means is much more valuable for a bright typewriter purchased in an expensive toy store.
You can make an independent typewriter on a radio control, using our serial algorithm. Modeling from one finished model of machine to another is very similar to the actions of the masters in the auto repair shop.
To create a managed machine with your own hands, you need to have the following items:
- Electric motor;
- Small car body;
- Durable chassis;
- Removable wheels;
- Set of mini-screwdrivers;
- Detailed instructions for accessories.
Undoubtedly, self-harvesting machine on the remote has a lot of winning benefits, namely:
- Saving funds, while you will have the model of the machine you wanted;
- You can choose the desired model from the proposed range of spare parts and varieties of the bodies;
- You decide - make a mini-typewriter on a wired remote, or use the radio control, which will have to spend a large amount.
After you decide on the model, follow the following an actions algorithm:
- We select the chassis for your model, pay attention to the quality of all small details. No inclusions and jar on the surface of plastic should be seen, the front wheels should move smoothly;
- When selecting wheels, special attention is paid to models with rubber, since completely plastic models have a hitch surface of low quality;
- To the choice of the motor, come with all seriousness, as this is the main heart of the mini-machine. There are 2 varieties of mini-motors for machines - electrical and gasoline. Electrical motors are distinguished by the availability and ease of use, they fueled from the battery, it is very easy for a new charge. Gasoline options have greater power, but they are more expensive, require delicate care. They need to pour special fuel. Electromotors are suitable for beginners in the field of simulation of toy machines;
- It is necessary to determine the type of management - wired or wireless. Wired control is cheaper, but the machine will move only in a limited radius, while the radio-controlled model will move within the reach of the antenna. Radio block is much more efficient for mini-machines;
- The body of the future machine also deserves increased attention. You can choose a finished body or make a personal sketch.
After all the details are purchased, you can start assembling.
To the chassis is secure a motor and a radar. Mount the antenna. Together with the components, detailed instructions for assembling the entire typewriter should go. We establish a motor operation. After everything is regularly functioning, fix the durable mini-machine case on the chassis. Now you can decorate the created model at your discretion. Letter with a powerful motor.
Many will find the idea of \u200b\u200bcollecting a typewriter with a motor for his child very strange, because there are many ready-made options on store shelves. But if you strive to show individuality and earn the authority in the eyes of your child, you can take on the assembly of the typewriter with a motor, even though it is not easy, but the result will justify all efforts.
The optimal option is to build a radio-controlled model. It will require certain skills and knowledge of small electrical engineering, because this mini-machine is a rather complex mechanism, despite the compact dimensions. All important details must be purchased.
We start learning the control panel. From the correct assembly directly depends on the movement of the car, the ability to overcome obstacles, make beautiful maneuvers. Many autosochetics use a three-channel console of a pistol species, which can be assembled independently.
You can go on a simple way - to get a special designer, where the kit contains all the necessary parts, their detailed schemes and finite drawings of ready-made models.
Engines for future radio-controlled models can be electrical or internal combustion. Internal combustion engines produce gasoline or calils operating on the composition of methanol, oil and nitromethane, a special gas absorption mixture. Approximate volumes of such engines range from 15 to 35 cm3.
The approximate volume of the fuel tank in such machines is 700 cm3. It provides the engine uninterrupted work for 45 minutes. Many gasoline models have a rear-wheel drive, an independent suspension is mounted on them.
Today, there are many collapsible models intended for autosochetics. Among the leading manufacturers, mini-machines are worth allocating ABC, Protech, FG Modelsport (Germany), HPI, Himoto (USA). Their main feature is the similarity of mini-models with real prototypes. After the assembly is completed on the applied instructions, install a charged onboard battery, a battery into a transmitter, fill a small amount of gasoline into the tank. You can safely run your iron horse on the road.
Modeling cars at their own desire is a fascinating hobby, especially when the result exceeds all expectations. First you need to purchase a stand model Range Rover, from it we will do a jeep, freely disseminating off-road. You still need to take the working electronics from the old jeep, we will be recorded in the SUV.
From copper pipes soldering iron bridges and differentials. It we are fastened to powerful wheels of the SUV. It is necessary to ensure that all compounds are firmly brewing. We closed the accurate differentials with caps from tablets. From above covering all the place of the discharge of differential by the usual auto email. We put bridges on the frame and perform steering traction. Steering thrust can be taken from the old disassembled machine. After installing the plastic bottom, we cut the hole there required for the installation of the gearbox, cardan shafts. The gearbox costs the engine from the aircraft, also quite powerful. The model is moving not by jerks, but smoothly, this is the most important condition for such models. It is difficult to make a gearbox, but here you can show all your smell. Reducer tightly fix it to the bottom, fasten the bottom to the frame. Now the installation of electronics, shock absorbers, battery. At the end there is painting the body of the car, the installation of the main nodes, headlights and much more. Paint is applied in 4 layers for conventional plastic. The author found the original photo of the car and made it a mini-copy in the toy version. So that the model is not afraid of moisture, the electronics is covered with a special composition. To impart the effect of the antique, the outdoor surface of the machine after painting. The battery actions in such a model are enough for 25 minutes of continuous skating.
To create such a simple model, we will need the following list of small parts:
- Microcircuit for radio-controlled machine;
- Remote Control;
- Steering element;
- Soldering iron with a solder;
- Compact electrical device;
- Battery with charger.
The procedure for this:
- We collect the bottom of the car, that is, the suspension;
- For this purpose, a durable plastic plate is required, it will be the basis for this model;
- It is attached to the chip for the radio-controlled machine, we solder to it, which serves as an antenna;
- We solder the wires from the electric motor;
- Battery wires fix to the correct points of the chip;
- Fix the wheels taken from a simple children's typewriter;
- All items can be fixed, just not faltered when used.
Fresh steering elements, it is impossible to do it with glue alone. The front axle needs to be coated for a stronger fixation. Fresh battery on the microcircuit. Now the machine is ready for testing. It must function. Management of such a machine is performed using the remote. Following this instruction, you can easily make a new typewriter on control. If there is a desire to design with your own hands, then this is a guide however, by the way. Made with your own hands the toy pleases much more than the model bought with your own hands.
To collect this model, we will need the following components:
- Simple model of any production machine;
- VAZ parts for opening doors, 12-volt battery;
- Equipment for the organization of radio control;
- Durable batteries with charger;
- Radiator;
- Electronically measuring equipment;
- Small soldering iron with a solder;
- Locksmiths;
- A piece of rubber to ensure the enhancement of the bumper.
An exemplary collection diagram of the radio-controlled model is shown in the figure.
Go to reading and collecting a scheme, to a fascinating process creating a unique mini-machine. First we take the collection of suspension. We take vaza connections and gears to collect reducer. On the hairpins and the case you need to cut the thread to hang gears and solenoids. Connect the gearbox to the power, check, after which they fix on the typewriter. To effectively protect the system from overheating, install the radiator. The plate from it can be firmly fixed with ordinary bolts. Next is the installation of the microcircuits of the power driver and radio control. Fully install the car body. Our mini-machine is ready for real tests.
You have a machine on radio control. You are striving to make it more maneuverable, but do not know how to do it?
Do not overload the model with additional systems and unnecessary small details. Sound signals, glowing headlights are all the amenities, they look great, but the independent process of collecting a radio-controlled typewriter and without it has certain difficulties. The complication of parts can adversely affect the important driving parts of the car. The main point, on what to focus on is to create high-quality suspension, ensuring reliable signaling.
To improve the indicators of maneuverability and optimize high-speed parameters, the system refinement is suitable during test races. These recommendations will help to delve into the business of auto. You can independently create a machine that will be a real copy of a large model. All items will be similar, only your option will be in mini-format.
PLEASE SINK - Make a machine with him on the control panel
You can start with a simple - collect the machine-designer on the remote. First you need to come up with a project: what your typewriter will look like, how to move, view other details. To start immediate assembly, you need to prepare not only all the important components of the components of the future iron horse, but also the necessary devices. To start a fascinating joint lesson with son, we take the following things:
- Little Motor, you can borrow from the old vein or a household fan;
- Durable frame;
- Mini-rubber set;
- High-quality suspension for a small chassis;
- 2 durable axes for wheel fixing;
- Wireless antenna;
- Thin wires for connections;
- Quality batteries for battery or special gasoline;
- Collected signal receiver;
- The old control panel will suit a simple transmitter or an outdated radar.
From the devices will require passas, a small soldering iron, screwdrivers of various diameters.
Order assembly
During the process, fees may find out that some missing details will have to buy either borrow from old, broken sweatshirts. After all, he will sacrifice for the sake of a cool novelty, isn't it?! Rama and body take the old samples of the toy son. The selected motor is tested in advance for maneuverability and performance. The power of the engine should not go into incision with the weight of the machine, because the weak motor will not pull the heavy construction. Batteries must be unused. Phased action when assembly are as follows:
- First we collect mini-frame;
- Then fix and adjust the serviceable motor;
- We enter the batteries or a compact battery;
- Next is fixed antenna;
- The wheels are mounted so that they can turn freely, turning along with the axis. If this condition is not fulfilled, the machine will move only back and forth.
For the future iron horse, it is better to take rubber tires, because they best show themselves on the open soil. If the assembly process was sufficiently easy, you were able to figure out all the intricacies of the primary auto-forming, you can make it possible to make several samples, you can give another instance to give a neighboring boy. They will arrange the race on the open soil on the street.
The assembly of a new unique typewriter is a fascinating process, followed by not one evening dad and son. To turn it into a productive case, you can follow the following recommendations, they must be taken into account when assembling a modern toy:
- Make a sketch of the future model you want to collect or use the ready-made instruction for the collection;
- Purchase all high-quality machine parts;
- Additional details can be taken from old machines or purchase new;
- Before installing, carefully test the selected motor, this is the heart of the machine;
- Do not save on batteries for a new model, let them be new and unused;
- Firmly fix all the details according to their sequence;
- Examine schemes for creating similar machines in advance to facilitate the assembly process;
- Choose the finished model or come up with something your own, unique.
Following these recommendations, you easily make it easily make the selected model of the machine. You can make and collect accurate copies of the original cars when you reach a certain level of skill. Collect together the machine in the family circle - this is the best way to efficient leisure organization for yourself and your child.
The machine, collected by his own hands, will be valuable for his children, because the real father's feelings are embedded. As a collected form, the model will ride in the selected direction and easily maneuver. You will be able to learn how to make a simple type of machine, following the recommendations from the proposed video. Start your way in the world of autocratic!
1. Introduction
2. Types of automodels
3. DVS against electro. Comparison.
5. Batteries
6. Fuel
7. Body models
8. List of necessary things
1. Introduction
So you are interested in radio-controlled car models. Whether it is a model with an internal combustion engine (engine) or a model with an electric motor, this article will help determine what you like more, understand some general principles of model and radio control and buy everything you need during further operation.
First let's consider various types of automodels.
2. Types of automodels
Radio-controlled cars can be classified as follows:
- scale (size): 1:12, 1:10, 1: 8
- by engine type: DVS (or nitro) (internal combustion engine) or electric motor (electric motor)
- type of chassis: Highway, Formula 1, Buggy, Tract, Monster Tracks (or Monsters)
Consider everything in order:
Scale
The scale of the model is indicated by such as 1:10 (or 1/10). The most common scales - 1:10 and 1: 8. Scale 1:12 becomes quite rare. Popularity is gaining a scale of 1:18 (very popular among ordinary, poster models of cars), there are new models of both road vehicles and monsters.
There are no scales 1:24 and 1:28, in which MINI-Z is doing a Japanese Kyosho company, but these scales are approximate, they indicate as the average for the series.
And finally, the other extreme is the scale of 1: 5 are huge cars (about a meter long) with gasoline engines.
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DVS (left) and electric motor. The proportions are not respected! Typically, the electric motor is much less than the DVS.
engine's type
The models are used as follows: the internal combustion engine (MOC, the term nitro is also used) and electric motors.
DVS (in the figure on the left) operate on a mixture of methanol, nitromethane and oil. This fuel is sold in the canister in model stores. It is better to use high-quality branded fuel so that the motor worked well and served for a long time. DVS are divided into classes in their working volume:
12th grade (2.11 cubic meters) - Light models scale 1:10
15th grade (2.5 cu. Cm) - highway 1:10, buggy, tract, monsters 1:10
18th grade (3.0 cm cm) - Buggy, Trackers, Monsters 1:10
21th grade (3.5 ccm) - Highway 1: 8, buggie and monsters 1: 8
25th grade (4.1 cubic meters) - Buggy and Monsters 1: 8
The name of the classes went from the American classification of volume in cubic inches. So, for example, the 15th class means that the volume of the engine is 0.15 cubic meters. inches. When recalculated into cubic centimeters, it turns out: 0.15 * 2.543 \u003d 2.458 cubic meters. cm, i.e. Approximately 2.5.
The higher the class, the greater the engine size, the higher the power. For example: the power of the engines of the 15th grade are approximately from 0.6 hp up to 1.2 hp The engines of the 25th grade are already 2.5 hp and more.
Electric motors (in the figure on the right) usually operate from rechargeable batteries 7.2 V and higher. Batteries are soldered from elements 1.2 V. Sell individual elements for spikes and ready-made batteries.
The electric motors are classified along the wire length wound inside (by number of turns) - 10 turns, 11 turns, 16 turns, 24 turns, etc. The smaller the number of turns of the "faster" engine.
Type of chassis
Chassis - base model. All important elements are attached on it - engine, electronics, etc. Different types of chassis serve in various purposes and are being developed based on the scope.
Formula 1 - Designed for the development of high speeds and races along an absolutely smooth surface. Drive - rear (2wd), although there are models and with full drive (4WD).
Buggy - For off-road races (sand, clay, gravel, dirt), can jump from springboards. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2wd).
Tracts - Looks like design on buggy, but have a larger ground clearance and wheels more. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2wd).
Monsters. - Have huge wheels and are able to overcome any obstacles and ride any surface. The high stroke of the suspension allows you to jump from high springboard and extract anything. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2wd).
Highway models - Can ride on a flat surface and have high speed and good handling. Drive - full (4WD), less often rear (2wd).
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3. DVS (internal combustion engine) against electro. Comparison
Before you make a choice, you need to weigh all the "for" and "against" each type of engines. The correct understanding of the advantages and disadvantages of models with the electric motor and with DVS will help rationally spend money and avoid problems and disappointments. So:
Models with DVS.
Many DVS models are faster than models with an electric motor and can exceed the speed of 70-80 km / h. Be that as it may, the blow at a speed of 70 km / h in a curb or a wall can destroy the model completely or cause expensive repairs.
DVS for automodels - single-cylinder two-stroke engines, which means that they need fuel (not gasoline, and special fuel). This means that you will have to regularly buy fuel to the model (approximate price of 4 liters of good fuel - $ 45, however, the canisters are enough for quite a long time). Plus models with internal combustion engine in that you can ride on it anyhow for a long time - the main fuel fuel into the tank. As a rule, models with DVS cost more models with an electric motor (due to higher cost of the engine itself). Among the significant advantages of models with DVS is a realistic sound.
Models with electric motor
The main minus of electromodels - the battery sits quickly. You hardly manage to continuously ride more than 15 minutes on one charging. But besides a short time ride and a slightly lower maximum speed throughout the rest of the model with an electric motor turn out to be better. The main advantage of models with the electric motor is their silence, environmental friendliness and much better acceleration compared to models with DVS.
Be that as it may, you will have to buy some equipment to the model - batteries and charger. Batteries cost from $ 15 and differ in capacity and current output. The better the batteries, the higher the price, and it increases nonlinearly. Chargers operate either from 12V (feed from the cigarette lighter or battery of the ordinary car), or from 220V (network). There are chargers that can work from 12 and from 220V.
4. Radio control (equipment)
No matter what type of chassis and what scale you will choose, you will need a system of radio-controlled model. Many firms make models part of their models in the form of RTR (Ready to Run) - ready to use directly from the box - they are usually already collected and include everything you need, including the control panel. However, some of the models are still sold in the form of a set for assembly and control equipment will have to be bought additionally. Let's consider the management principle of the model.
Radio control system Car model with electric motor:
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3. If the racer turns the steering wheel, the receiver will send a signal servo (it is also called the servo), forcing it to turn it in the right direction. Through the system, this turn came to the rotation of the model of the model.
4. If the racer presses the trigger, the receiver sends the signal to the regulator (speed controller).
5. Speed \u200b\u200bregulator (still called the stroke controller, AIDS controller) changes the speed of the electric motor and, therefore, the model speed (the engine is connected to the wheels of the belt and / or cardan drives).
6. The battery is used to power the motor, servo 1, receiver and speed controller. If the electronic speed controller is standing on the model, the battery is connected to it, and the regulator distributes power to the motor, receiver and servo.
Radio control system of a car model with DVS:
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1. When the racer presses the trigger or rotates the steering wheel on the control panel, the signal is sent to the model receiver.
2. The receiver receives a signal, processes it and sends a signal to the corresponding model devices.
3. If the racer turns the steering wheel, then the receiver will send a signal servo 1, forcing it to turn it in the desired side. Through the system, this turn came to the rotation of the model of the model.
4. If the racer presses the trigger, the receiver sends the Servo 2 signal.
5. Servo 2 moves the damper of the carburetor, which changes the flow of a mixture of fuel and air and, consequently, engine speed and model speed.
6. The battery is used to power the receiver, servo 1 and servo 2.
The elements shown above constitute a complete list of model radio equipment. All these elements are necessary to manage the model. Speed \u200b\u200bregulators are usually sold separately, and the control panel, the receiver and servo are sold both individually and all in one set.
5. Batteries
If you decide to buy a model with an electric motor, you will need batteries. In models of cars, 7.2V batteries are commonly used, which are soldered from 6 elements of 1.2V. There are currently widespread two types of batteries - nickel-cadmium (NICD) and nickel-metal hydride (NIMH). Each type has its advantages and disadvantages, but NiMH allows you to obtain a large battery capacity and practically do not have a "memory effect".
How batteries differ.
The batteries are characterized by many parameters - internal resistance, secondary voltage, discharge current, etc. The exact values \u200b\u200bof these parameters are given for expensive batteries for serious sports, for hobbies and amateur races you can not sharpen attention and buy accumulators more affordable. At the same time, the most important parameters are the type of battery (NiCD or NIMH) and its capacity (measured in Mah, for example 2400 mAh), it is indicated on the batteries with large numbers. The higher the container, the longer you can ride on the model. The price, however, also increases ...
How many batteries buy?
To begin with, it would be good to buy 2-3 batteries, which will allow you to ride with the replacement of the batteries for quite a long time. As for the capacity - it is better not to buy batteries with a capacity of less than 1500mAh, and then the ride time will be quite small.
6. Fuel
Internal combustion engines for models cannot work on ordinary gasoline. They require special fuels based on methanol and with the addition of different quantities of nitromethane and oil. Nitromethane increases the return of the engine, its content in fuel for automodels is usually from 16 to 25%. The oil in the fuel promotes the engine lubrication and protect it from damage. On cannons with fuel, the content of nitromethane and the type of models for which this fuel is applicable is usually indicated.
7. Body models
Body for car models make from special plastic - polycarbonate (lexana). The body is pretty light and elastic, so as not to break at shuffles. Models can be sold both with the body and without. But you can always buy the body separately - the benefit of the great many bodies that copy a huge number of real cars.
The body is sold already painted or in an unpainted form (transparent). Transparent body color from inside with special paint for polycarbonate, which can be found in any store for model professions.
The body of different manufacturers may vary according to the degree of detail and strength: some body are well developed, accurately copy the original, but at the same time quite fragile. Other bodies contain less detail, but more elastic and racks to shock. If you are a novice, try to choose a more elastic body, because the accidents are first inevitable and happened more often than it seems at first glance.
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8. List of necessary things
And finally, a complete list of what you should buy to the model for the full function, start and maintenance.
For model S. electric motor:
- Chassis (with electric motor)
- Radio control (the kit must contain 1 remote, 1 receiver and 1 servo)
- Speed \u200b\u200bregulator (depends on the model motor, consult with the seller)
- Batteries (buy at least 2 batteries, no less than 1500mAh capacity)
- Charger
For model S. DVS:
- Chassis (with engine)
- Radio control (the kit must contain 1 remote, 1 receiver and 2 servo)
- Batteries or batteries (for power receiver and servo, usually 4 pcs. Type AA)
- Body (if included with the chassis it was not)
- Paint for the body (better buy 2 springs)
- Fuel
- Bottle for fueling fuel in the tank model
- The device for the glow of the candle (in English is called GlowStart)
My blog is found according to the following phrases.
The idea of \u200b\u200bcreating a radio-controlled car arose a long time ago. But the embodiment of this idea in plastic and metal all the time there were some objective reasons. First, the complete lack of experience in the design and construction of such a model (my hobby aircodelism, and the device and the work of some nodes of automodels, types of materials used, engines, batteries, gearbox selection, etc. I represented very foggy). Secondly, the complete lack of literature on this subject. Thirdly, the lack of components (engines, gears, small diameter bearings, etc.). To surprise, the last problem was resolved quickly and simply. I work at the computing center, and the guys who know about my passion of models, somehow gave me some written off printing mechanisms from printers and drives on magnetic tapes. Of all these "glands" I managed to choose a few pairs of gears with a different gear ratio, several shafts made of high-quality steel for axes and small bearings. It was also quite simple with the literature: I revised all the magazines "Model-Designer" in myself and in the library, and found some interesting articles for me. To begin with, it was decided to build the most simple model (without differential, without depreciation, without bearings, the engine - from the mechanism of blocking the lock of the automotive door, the power supply is 8-10 SC-0.55 A / H batteries).
After more close acquaintance with the catalog and models of Tamiya, I was convinced that I did not make a model, but a toy. I wanted to build something more serious, I had to develop drawings again. Due to the rather high complexity of the nodes of branded models (almost all parts of the cast and complex configuration), transmission containing many parts, low strength and wear resistance of the mechanisms (I ask you to take into account that this is my subjective opinion) Design the all-wheel drive and front-wheel drive chassis I don't even had tried. The prototype served as a chassis from the Formula 1 model; The model was originally conceived for asphalt. Materials - sheet glasskestolite, steel, duralumin, caprolacts, microporous rubber. The differential did according to the description in the "modelist-designer", the front suspension is similar to the branded, but from the glassstolite, the regulator is homemade, mechanical. During the operation, some nuances have arisen that I was not satisfied. First, the complete unprotected of the wheels from the blows of rivals. I had to change the front suspension levers several times and a couple of times the axis of the rear axle. Secondly, a very dense layout of mechanisms under a body of small volume, and, as a result, difficult maintenance and cleaning of nodes. Thirdly, the material was unsuccessful for the details of the differential, and his work was not satisfied with me.
Taking into account the above, as well as the accumulated experience of creating and operating such models, a slightly different chassis variant was developed. The changes affected mainly the type of chassis (for closed body), layouts of nodes, some details of the differential, the protection knot. I am pretty difficult to give an objective assessment to my "work", but the chassis suits me. Compared to Tamiya models chassis more speed (though, the comparison was performed visually, the front-wheel drive, all-wheel drive and my chassis were compared; the models were standard execution, without additional options). Details and mechanisms are simpler than branded, in the event of a breakdown, easily restored or repaired.
Unfortunately, I did not have the opportunity to work with brand components (wheels, differential items, etc.). But I think that by changing the size and configuration of some details of the front suspension and the rear axle, it is quite possible to apply standard wheels, differential, shock absorbers, etc., manufactured by firms. In addition, changing the size of some parts, it is quite possible to change the database and a chassis king, that is, make the chassis under any body of a closed type. Well, finally, the chassis cost me not $ 200 plus about the same on tuning (maybe somewhere prices and lower, but we have such).
In this material, I do not want to remake the merits and achieve model products manufacturing companies, offend people who have the opportunity to buy expensive models and components to them or qualify for novelty ideas. Almost all the materials were published in the magazine "Model-designer", however, I sometimes used other materials, something changed and modified, taking into account those details that I had. In general, I did it, I bring to your attention.
Brief technical characteristic
| Type of chassis | rearbed |
| Base | 260 mm |
| Width on the rear wheels | 200 mm |
| Width of the forward wheels | 188 mm |
| Ground clearance | 14 mm |
| Mass chassis | 700 g |
| Type of transmission | Single-stage open gearbox; K \u003d 1: 4.2 or K \u003d 1: 4.5 |
| engine's type | Mabuchi 540, Speed \u200b\u200b600 different modifications |
| Front suspension | Independent, amortization - fiberglass plate |
| Rear suspension | Dependent, amortization - fiberglass plate and oil shock absorber-damper |
| Batteries | 7,2 VX1400MA / H Plus 4.8VX260MA / H for onboard equipment |
Design Description
The base of chassis
Functionally, the chassis consists of three main nodes: the base of the chassis, the rear axle with the depreciation system and the front suspension with the depreciation system and the protective coupling. The base of the chassis part 1, carved from a fibercister with a thickness of 2.5 mm. This part is installed in the corresponding sidewalls 3 and 4, which form a box-penalty for the placement of power batteries. After installing these parts, the compound site is degreased and spilled by epoxy resin. On racks 5 (duralumin material or aluminum alloy) mounted "second floor" chassis 2, on which the steering machines, the stroke knobs, the nodes of fastening the oil shock absorber and the protective coupling of the steering wheel machine are placed. It should be noted that the grooves of the parts 2 must coincide with the corresponding spikes of the sidewall 3 (these places are not sampled!). This design in the assembled form increases the strength of the battery box. Brackets 6 are installed before the rear wheels, which play the role of protective "ears" and, in addition, the body fastening pins are installed. In the front of the body chassis, you can be attached to similar pins installed in the bumper-bumper area. The configuration of the bumper depends on the nasal part of the prototype and in the drawings is not shown. Also not shown the place of attachment of the body pins. Their location depends on the control of the prototype hood. Due to the fact that the fiberglass is inferior to the strength of the carbon plate, the relief windows are cut out only in the details that form a box for a power battery.
Rear axle with depreciation system
The rear axle is made as a single light-duty node, which increases the convenience of repair and preventive work. The base of the bridge (see section A-A) is a fiberglass plate 3 with a thickness of 2.5 mm (duralumin 2 mm thick can be applied). It is mounted to it M3 screws 1 and a left-wheel stand 2, made of duralumin with a thickness of 6 mm. On top of the same screws, the upper frame of the rear axle is screwed up 4. Bearing glasses 5 are fastened to the motor and rack and 6 (left). Right isted from steel and brought to the sizes shown in the drawing; The left glass is made of duralumin. Bearings-13x6x3,
closed type. The axis 20 connecting the rear wheels is made of a rod steel with a diameter of 6 mm. At the place of installation of the left wheel in the axis, the hole M2.5 is made under the pin. In the left wheel hub 17 propylene groove width 2.5 mm. When the wheel is installed on the axis, the pin is included in the cutting hub and thus prevents the wheel to turn the axis. The right wheel is associated with the driven gear 11 (on the drawing, the gear showing the gear, which I found, right - it is after refinement) through the ball friction clutch. It is formed by 6 balls with a diameter of 4.8 mm from the bearing located in the cylindrical inserting slots 10 (cylindrical insertion is connected to the gear six screws M1.5; holes for screws are drilled around the circle with a diameter of 37 mm after 60o; inserted bronze sliding bearing 12) . On both sides of the coupling compressed with steel tempered washers 9 (size washers 30x13x1.2). One of the washers is pasted into the hub of the right wheel 13, the second is glued to the stop disk 8. Landing the stop disk on the axis is carried out through the split bronze sleeve 7. For the perception of axial efforts from the pressure of the balls, the thrust ball bearing 15 (made of steel bar; after the groove of the groove under Balls details hardened). Adjusting the force in the coupling is performed by tightening the nut with the Kapron liner 19. To prevent axial displacements on the axis 20, the sleeve 21 is installed, which is fixed on the axis screw M3. The wheel of the wheel 13 and the left disk 16 are made out of caprolactam; Two bronze sliding bearings are pressed into the right hub 14. Tires of wheels are made of microporous rubber. To eliminate the axial backlash, the remote washer 18 is served.
The rear axle is hanging on the base of the chassis through a fiberglass shock absorber 22 with three screws M3. On the basis of the chassis, this part is fixed with a screw M4 and a clamping washer 23, which is screwed into the rod 24. This rod is the axis of the friction depreciation node. The latter consists of carbon friction piles 25 and springs. Friction force is regulated by moving along the axis of the sleeve 27, the fixation of which is carried out by screw M3. The bottom support of 26 spring is based on an additional spring strip 28, which is installed on the rack 29 on the base of the chassis 1.
To clean the oscillations arising from the operation of the suspension, a damping spring is installed - oil shock absorber. It is attached to the part 2 using a duralumin bracket (node \u200b\u200bI). With the upper frame of the rear axle 4, the shock absorber is connected by a ball hinge (node \u200b\u200bII).
Front suspension
The front suspension was originally simplified (cross section of Mr.), and consisted of top and bottom planks 1 of the foil glassstolite, connected to the racks 2 and the chassis 1 streaming through the rubber washers (node \u200b\u200bIII). The swivel lever was the details 3, 4, 5, assembled into one node using a soldering. The depreciation was carried out using a spring and the movement of the part 3 along the axis 6. On the axis 6 there are grooves for castle washers. In the wheel disk 8, two bronze sliding bearing 9 were clicked.
But I didn't like such a suspension, and with the help of the article from the magazine "Model-Designer", another suspension was developed and manufactured (parts are shown in the drawing to the right of the red barcode) The base is the base 1 assembled from parts 1a, two parts 1B ( fiberglass) and duralumin parts 2. Details 1b are glued to 1a, for greater strength, it is pulled by screws M2; Detail 2 is screwed by screws M2. The lower lever of the suspension 3 consists of a base of 3b and two sidewalls 3a (a fibercker with a thickness of 2 mm); After fitting and assembling joints, the joints are degreased and spilled with epoxy resin. The top lever 4 consists of an earrings 4a, forks 4B and 4B axis. Material for earrings and
plugs - Duralumin. The levers are attached to the base 1 using axes 15; At its places, the axes are fixed with the castle washers 16. With the help of the same axis, a peregnery rack 5 is fastened to the lower lever (the detail of the factory manufacture, but it is quite possible to be made of duralumin, a bit of simplifier). To the upper lever 4, the rack 5 is mounted using a fork 4B and M3 screw. Earring 4A is attached to the node 1 as shown in the form in (axis of rotation 15 is fixed with locking washers 16, for preventing axial offset earrings, fluoroplastic bushings 14). The swivel lever 6 represents the part of duralumin, the steel axis 7 is inserted into it with some tension, after that the vertical hole with a diameter of 4 mm is drilled under the rotation axis 8. The axis of rotation is fixed with a cloth washer.
Wheel disks 9 are sharpened from caprolactam. The hubs are 10 from duralumin, attached to the disks with three screws M2.5. Bearings - 13x6x3, closed performance. Tires of wheels - from microporous rubber.
The depreciation is carried out using a plate 11 of a fiberglass, which is pressed to the base 1b screw M3 and a duraluminum washer 12. The free ends of the plate are based on the fluoroplastic bushings 13, which are dressed on the axis 15. This design allows you to adjust the stiffness of the suspension due to thickness and widths of the plate 11 pretty widely.
The protective clutch of the steering wheel is a node shown in cross section in-in. On comparison with a node published in the "Model-Designer", it is a little converted. The base is the steel axis 1, on which the part of the bronze is attached to the tension. 3. After that, in these parts, the hole with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm is cooled and the pin is inserted and is inserted. Thus, the part 1 and 3 are tough. Rocking 4 soldes to parts 2, and the node is assembled as shown in the drawing. Axis 1 rotates in a needle bearing, which is installed in the part 6 (which, in turn, is installed in the base opening 1). The second bearing is the Kapron sleeve 5, installed in the part 2. The depth of the hole with a diameter of 5.2 mm per part 5 must be chosen so as to provide the minimum play of the axis 1 of the protective clutch, but at the same time, the ease of rotation of the node. The coupling is driven with a duralumin rocking chair 7.
Conclusion
A few words about the model itself. The prototype served Ferrari F40, so the base and width of the chassis, the diameter of the wheels were developed on the basis of the real size of the car, on the scale of 1:10. Body - glassy biplastic, was patched on the nerd. Control equipment - Graupner FM -314, steering machines - standard 508 (similar to the sizes of HS 422 HITEC).
I tried to describe how to describe my thoughts as possible in the development and procedure for making the chassis. It is possible that some nodes could be done otherwise, apply other materials or design solutions. I want to give a small advice to those who want to repeat this model. First, it is necessary to choose components (gears, shock absorber, swivel levers, etc.; It is quite possible that it is not possible to choose the details in the dimensions specified in the drawings) and materials for homemade parts. After that, it is possible to make some adjustments to the drawings, and only then begin manufacture. If someone has questions, suggestions, criticism - I will be happy to talk on the forum.
I got from the nephew that's such radio-controlled machine toy. Radius of action is only about 15 meters, a weak electronic part, i.e. I barely turn the front wheels and very little pulls the drive.
From nothing to do decided not much to pump this radio-controlled machine. Plowing in the covers found a receiver 40 MHz and two seats, one HS-311 in working condition and one powerful digital MG946R with a burnt engine. The HS-311 has adapted to the steering wheel in replacing the native, silent design, and MG946R took only an electronic control board. For the place of the server, the server connected the traction engine of the radio-controlled machine, and the reservoir resistor 4.70 soldered into the place of the server.
Setting up radio-controlled typewriter
The converted radio-controlled toy when the transmitter is first turned on, begins to turn the wheels to stop them, it is necessary:
- Serving Gas Connect in 2 channel (RV channel)
- Configure if you need a reverse channel
- Strong resistor to stop the rotation of the wheels
Further off expanents (we put 100% on gas), costs and trimming steering wheel. I used 5 NICD batteries, converted radio-controlled machine Hurried powerful and yurkaya. It was not without any problems, the native traction engine was weak, he heats greatly and stinks, I think not long to live for him. And in general, the remake succeeded, now the machine goes from under the console
