Quite a lot of hunters, fishermen, and just lovers of outdoor activities dream of their ATV. But the prices, even for used equipment, are too expensive for most, not to mention new technology... You should not despair, because today we will learn how to make an ATV with our own hands! This is an excellent transport for household needs, for transporting trailers, with high cross-country ability due to a short wheelbase, as well as easy to operate. But right away we want to say in order to do homemade ATV it will take a long time. As practice shows, a project can take from 6 to 12 months on average.
Preparatory stage
So let's get started. Prepare tools and equipment first. It will take a lot welding works for which manual arc welding is quite suitable. Choose electrodes for welding critical and vibration-loaded structures, which will be the ATV frame. By the way, this very frame can be cooked with your own hands from ordinary water pipes. These are easy to find at the nearest scrap metal reception, or metal warehouse. Choose a pipe diameter from 25 to 32mm, and the wall thickness should be around 3mm. To bend such pipes, it is desirable to have a pipe bender, but if it is not there, then you can also manually bend the pipes for the frame frame using a lever, heating the place of the desired bend with a gas burner, or better with a gas-oxygen cutter.
Selection of main parts
The next step will be the selection of the necessary parts in the first place, namely:
- engine
- wheels
- shock absorbers
- rear axle
If you want to build a simple lightweight quadric with a drive only to the rear axle, then it is preferable to choose an engine from a motorcycle of an average cubic capacity, from 250 cubic meters and above. Depending on the construction budget, this can be almost any motor from Soviet motorcycle, preferably with a chain drive, due to which it will be quite easy to make a drive rear axle... The axle can be made from a structural steel tube. In the center, weld the flanges for attaching the driven sprocket and disc brake, and on the sides install wheel bearings from a car, having previously pressed them into pre-made cases.
The housings are used to fasten the axle assembly to the pendulum. The swingarm can be left as standard by further strengthening it and making a new mount for the disc brake caliper. Also, do not forget to make the brake hose mounts along the swingarm.
Our next task is the choice of wheels. And the ideal option not only in terms of accessibility, but also in size will be the wheels from the Oka. The main feature is that such stamped discs are very light, they will perfectly fit into the proportions of a home-made ATV, and most importantly, rubber from factory ATVs is perfect for them, which will significantly improve cross-country ability. How it looks can be seen below:
Donor selection for a new frame
How to make an ATV even easier to manufacture? You can simply use a donor frame, for example, from the Ural motorcycle by welding the rear axle to the standard swingarm and just slightly change the front suspension! The thick frame of the Urals is made of good steel and has an excellent margin of safety. And an engine with a high torque is very suitable for such a purpose. As for the gearbox, it is better to use it from the Dnepr motorcycle. It is designed for good loads, it is distinguished by the clarity of gear changes, and the most important is the presence reverse speed, which is a must-have feature of a full-fledged ATV. Photo example of a homemade ATV from the Urals below:
Steering
Do-it-yourself ATV assembly is not an easy task. And, perhaps, the most difficult thing is to do it steering... To do this, first weld the frame of the front of the ATV, then you will need steering knuckles from a car, for example from Niva, but any others will do. Then you need to build the suspension arms. Take away Special attention levers attachment structures, since in their conjugation with the frame there are large loads, therefore additional stiffeners will not be superfluous. Levers are usually bolted through silent blocks. This is a rubber-to-metal hinge that is an indispensable link in the suspension. It dampens wheel vibrations, preventing vibration from being transmitted to the frame. Levers can be made according to these drawings.
Move on. What is the front suspension without shock absorbers? Here you can apply 4 motorcycle shock absorbers, one for each arm at the front, and two for the swingarm to shock the rear axle. Rear shock absorbers from Izh are suitable, but if you are ready to fork out for gas-oil with pumping, then this will give you the opportunity to adjust the suspension to road conditions, which is very useful for such equipment as an ATV!
Four-wheel drive and car engine
How do you create a 4-wheel drive ATV yourself? Above, we have considered the simplest option. But an option is possible not only with a motorcycle engine, but also with a car engine! And then we will tell you how to make an ATV with an Oka engine. In case of four-wheel drive ATV with a car engine, things are much more serious. Here it is no longer possible to use a motorcycle frame as a basis, it will have to be welded completely from scratch under car engine... By the way, it can be not only from Oka, but also any other, depending on your desires and capabilities. Don't forget about the liquid cooling system right away. Calculate the frame design so that the radiator and fan are located in a protected area from forest branches. The engine with the gearbox should be mounted along the frame so that the drive shaft from the gearbox is directly directed to the rear axle. To distribute the rotation of the wheels to each wheel, you will need 2 identical axles, for example, from the Zhiguli. But for installation you have to shorten them. To increase the cross-country ability, if desired, you can make a reduction chain reducer, combining with a standard gearbox. In this case, the driving gear should be slightly smaller than the driven one. By simple calculations of the ratio of the diameters of these gears, you can find out how much will decrease maximum speed and the thrust will increase. If the ATV is not going to be used for road riding common use then this will be a very significant technical decision.
Increased functionality
Now that the frame and chassis the ATV will be assembled, the engine is installed, you need to think about the secondary structures, thanks to which it will be practical to use the technique. Fuel tank fits well from the Ural motorcycle. Its impressive capacity will be enough even for a car engine. An important modification will be the snorkel installation. Since the engine is located quite low in the frame, then air filter accordingly draws in air from below. To prevent water from getting into it when overcoming the fords, it is highly recommended to do this. Completely need to be redone and exhaust system, with the exhaust gas outlet at a fairly high level so that water does not get inside either. Also for an ATV you need a large, wide seat by moving the body weight, it will be possible to achieve better control when driving. Aluminum sheet metal can be used for underbody protection to protect the front suspension arms and engine. A winch installed in the front will not be superfluous in the forest. Fog lights can be used to illuminate the road.
Work on the appearance
In conclusion, to bring the ATV into a proper appearance, similar to the real one you need a case. To do this, you will need ED-20 epoxy and fiberglass. These components can be purchased at a hardware store or hardware store.
To give this shape, first you need to cut out a blank from dense foam, which is also sold in large hardware stores in the form of 1 m2 plates, which is very convenient for creating such projects. Then fiberglass is applied in several layers, while each layer is coated with resin. The more layers, the stronger the case. Do not forget about the metal fasteners, which must be inserted between the layers, in the future for which the body will be attached to the ATV frame. After drying, it can be primed, sanded and painted. This fiberglass body is lightweight and very durable.
With a serious approach to business, such an ATV will be little inferior to the factory one, and in terms of assembly costs, it turns out to be many times cheaper. Despite the fact that you can assemble such a thing for yourself and get a lot of driving pleasure.
How to make an ATV with your own hands is a difficult and responsible task, but feasible for a master who has perfectly mastered welding and turning. The effort and time spent pays off not only with great savings, but also with the result obtained - an exclusive, author's quadric model, which no one else has.
The features of assembling a homemade vehicle are highly dependent on the chosen base - the engine and other elements that are used by a skilled craftsman.
6 best options the basics ("donor") for the aspirant, how to make an ATV.
- Motorcycle "Ural".
- Motorcycle "Izh".
- Motor scooter "Ant".
- Another motor scooter (scooter).
- Niva car.
- Oka car.
Most often, some structural elements are taken from a motorcycle, others from a car.
In addition to parts (components) for a quadric, its creator will need:
- assembly "workshop" - a fairly spacious garage equipped with good heating and lighting is useful in this capacity;
- a set of equipment and tools;
- blueprints.
You may also be interested in the article of our specialist, which tells how to do it.
Preparation for work, tools and equipment
First of all, you need to carefully weigh when, where and for what purposes the future ATV will be used - hunting and fishing, motorcycle walks in nature, transportation of goods, etc. It is on this basis that the choice of a "donor" vehicle must be made, having determined how powerful the engine is needed, what kind of suspension is suitable, what kind of trunk, etc.
Drawings can be taken from the Internet ready-made, compiled from scratch on your own, or you can combine both options and ready to remake at your own discretion.
List of required tools:
- welding machine;
- Bulgarian;
- drill;
- a set of keys;
- various small tools - vernier calipers, hammer, knife, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.
For self-made the frame will also need pipe bending equipment. In the absence, you can rent it or give it away necessary work“Outsource” to another craftsman. Only if you have remarkable skill can you bend the pipes by hand, heating the bend with a gas cutter or burner.
Quadric components:
- engine;
- frame;
- rear and front suspension;
- steering;
- brake system;
- cooling system;
- muffler;
- electrical equipment - battery, headlights;
- body, body kit.
The muffler can be made by yourself. Everything else is to be purchased on the shadow market for used parts.
Parts selection
ATV frame
Depending on the "donor" and the design of the quadric, the frame either has to be made by yourself, or you can reconstruct a ready-made, used one.
The most important thing is that the engine is bolted securely to the bottom along the frame, which can be positioned both front and rear. Also firmly, in order to avoid backlash, should be attached to the frame transmission and drive.
As a material, ordinary water and gas pipes are suitable, with a wall thickness of no more than 3 mm:
- for side members - 25 mm;
- for crossbars and struts - 20 mm.
The pipes are connected using spot welding, then one-piece welding is carried out. The lugs for attaching shock absorbers and levers are welded to the frame immediately. Brackets - during the installation of units and assemblies.
Reconstruction of the existing frame
To reconstruct the finished frame, you should remove everything, leaving the frame, dismantle the rear and build up the front. Then weld the elements for fastening a complete set of components and assemblies of the ATV. When reconstructing the motorcycle frame, the seat posts should be moved back 40 - 45 cm.
The front and rear racks are cut from sheet metal and welded to the frame. In conclusion, the finished frame is painted, no need to varnish.
Engine
The engine will fit from a car, motorcycle or scooter. Some "Lefties" even construct an ATV from a walk-behind tractor with their own hands, since newer models are equipped with four-stroke engines, the power of which in heavy devices reaches 15 "horses" - against 11 hp. "Ant".
The engine from the scooter compares favorably with low fuel consumption, besides, the quadric based on the scooter is the lightest, which makes it easy to pull it out when it gets stuck in mud and sand. But a quadric for the transportation of goods and / or off-road driving needs a more powerful engine.
The power of the Izh-1, Izh-2 and Izh Jupiter engines - 24 hp, the old Ural - 32 or 36 hp, the two-cylinder engine of the old Oka - 35 hp. , a three-cylinder machine of a later release - 53.
The ATV needs a cooled engine to ride in hot weather. Cooling was not installed on old motorcycles, so you have to pick it up (it will do, for example, from a VAZ 2108) and install it.
The suspension can be used both rear and front. The easiest way is to take the front from the motorcycle.
2 options rear suspension:
- The rear axle of the car, shortened to fit the dimensions of the quad. The advantage is the presence of a differential. The disadvantage is that the design will be heavier.
- Cardan-reduction gear design - with a gearbox mounted on the rear axle.
Please note: for an ATV, an independent suspension with high ground clearance is required.
The suspension arms are bolted to the frame through rubber-metal hinges - silent blocks.
The front suspension strut must be tilted or the ATV may tip over.
Shock absorbers are suitable from Izh, but if the budget allows you to purchase gas-oil with pumping, the driver will be able to adjust the suspension according to road conditions.
Steering and chassis
The steering system of an ATV can be both on the basis of an automobile - with a steering wheel, and with a motorcycle steering wheel. Some craftsmen combine both types: motorcycle handlebars, lever and shaft at the top, car steering rods at the bottom. It is advisable to immediately take the fuel tank along with the steering wheel of the motorcycle.
A homemade steering shaft is made from a 20 mm pipe with walls up to 3 mm. A travel stop must be placed below.
When making a quadric based on a car, it is better to replace the gear pair with a chain drive. This will greatly simplify and reduce the cost of maintenance.
The input shafts from the gearbox must be able to be directed directly to the rear and front axles.
Wheels are most often taken from small-sized VAZs ("Oki" or "Niva") and put on shoes with rubber appropriate to the operating conditions (weather, terrain, etc.). Brake system selected depending on the wheels. The steering knuckles are also from Niva or Oka.
Four-wheel drive
If you prefer transport with four-wheel drive, steering from a car, differentials and a manual transmission drive are required.
The existing frame will not work in this case; a new one should be welded for the engine size.
The suspensions, like the steering system, must be taken from the car. On the front, it is necessary to provide a place for installing the gearbox.
Installation all-wheel drive model requires not only special skills of the craftsman, but also additional labor costs. Alternative option- to buy a ready-made all-wheel drive unit - it costs money.
Frame
Manufacturing the case is far from the easiest stage in history, under the title: "how to assemble an ATV with your own hands." Suitable materials are fiberglass and fiberglass, it is easier to make a body kit from the second.
First, you need to draw, cut and build a "blank" of the case from pieces of durable foam, glued or fastened with polyurethane foam. Then - apply several layers of fiberglass to it, coating each with epoxy and inserting metal fasteners between them to attach the case to the frame. In conclusion, dry the case thoroughly, then prime, grind and paint.
An ATV is virtually any four-wheeled vehicle, since the Latin word for "quadro" is "four". In the CIS, this name most often means four-wheel drive, representing the symbiosis of a motorcycle and a car. From a motorcycle, the ATV took over mobility, maneuverability, lightness, speed, and from a car - excellent characteristics of cross-country ability, power and controllability. The result is a unique vehicle designed for a variety of purposes.
The domestic market provides only foreign models of ATVs, the cost of which is often transcendental. At the same time, on secondary market transport, you can easily find used motorcycles and cars at an extremely low price.
For example, the motorcycle "Ural" - large, bulky, heavy and "gluttonous" has an excellent four-stroke engine with reverse gear and is worth a "penny". For this reason, it is much cheaper and more fun for enthusiasts to create their own designs for these SUVs.
The quintessential factory ATV is shiny, neatly built, sturdy and powerful.
Its homemade counterpart, which is not much inferior in appearance, and even more so in terms of power.
How to make an ATV with your own hands
Before starting the assembly, it is necessary to draw up a detailed list of units and parts that will be needed to create your own brainchild, develop a work plan and a design drawing.
Engine: the best choice
It is logical that first of all it is necessary to find the "heart" of the future "beast" - power unit... Absolutely anything will do, from a conventional walk-behind tractor to a six-liter V12 - there are such precedents. In most cases, motorcycle engines are used - they are economical and small.
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To use high gear ratios under normal operating conditions, a Minsk or Ural engine will suffice. In the summer, the issue of overheating arises, so you should choose models with air cooled... Another good option is boxer engines Soviet-made, an indisputable plus of which is a powerful traction and a completely unpretentious cardan transmission.
Suspensions: rear and front
There are two common ATV rear suspension solutions.
- Gear-cardan system. The design turns out to be as lightweight and simple as possible, but there is no differential, which, in principle, can be sacrificed for the sake of the previously mentioned advantages.
- Usage road bridge... The construction turns out to be extremely heavy, and if there is no desire to have an ATV with a car base, it is necessary to shorten the bridge, which is a very non-trivial task. Of the advantages, it is worth highlighting only the presence of a differential, which is useful when driving on highways.
The possibilities for front suspension and steering are tremendous. The suspension arms of an ATV carry a significantly lower load than automobile ones, respectively, they can be made independently, using improvised means for this. The best option- creation of a suspension based on the existing Ural motorcycle.
Frame: drawings and alternatives
The best solution is a solid construction made of pipes or profiles welded together.
It is ideal to remove the frame from the donor motorcycle and add the necessary elements - this eliminates a number of problems, but the design can turn out to be unnecessarily complicated.
Assembling the ATV
Having prepared necessary tools, donor vehicles and freeing up time, you can start creating your own ATV:
Thanks to its reliable, time-tested design, excellent power and traction, it is the Ural motorcycle that is the most popular donor for homemade ATVs.
Video clip: "Wasp" 4x4
The video below describes the design of a homemade ATV, its characteristics, properties and features.
Photo review
Photos of ATVs at the base domestic motorcycles and cars:
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As you can see, using the outdated and inexpensive achievements of the Soviet car industry, you can create amazing devices that will amuse your vanity and satisfy most transport tasks.
We present the ATV of our permanent author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm Territory. The next car he built testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself ...
A year of labor for 3 - 4 hours after work and on weekends - and new car was ready for testing, there were only small (and I would say pleasant) improvements: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.
Do-it-yourself ATV from oki
The power unit for my homemade ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid-cooled. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.The frame of the machine is spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipes with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, crossbars, etc.) are made of VGT-20. The side members are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical plane. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "cold". I welded the lugs (pairs of lugs) for fastening the levers and shock absorbers to the frame at once, and various brackets - as the assemblies and assemblies were mounted (in place).
ATV transmission- kind. Although the car is all-wheel drive, but transfer case it is not. As you know, in "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheel (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. Here are just the power unit itself, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and the gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal joint shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.
The transmission is assembled from units of various domestic cars, mainly "VAZ" models. But the finished industrial units also had to be refined. For example, from the gearbox (from "Oka") to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, removed the main gear pair and replaced it with chain drive... The gearshift rod was also made different - lengthened, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The rod can be fixed in three positions: to engage 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.
Interwheel reducers- from rear axles VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts together with the "stockings" were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints are used as hinges in the rest of the transmission intermediate shafts.
There are no undershifts and differential locks.
Steering- motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and car type (with steering rods) - at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. At first I used the steering wheel from a motorcycle "Minsk", with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and delivered it from a Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a tube with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. It has a travel stop at its lower end. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it turns in a split nylon bracket-sleeve.
The bipod is made of 8 mm thick steel sheet in the shape of the letter "T". At the edge of the "rack" a hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made - the steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears - tapered holes for the ball ends of the steering rods. These holes are reinforced with matching welded washers. The bipod ears are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.
ATV Wheels- 15-inch, from the car "Chevrolet-Niva". Tires with the corresponding rim dimensions 205/70 (width / height as a percentage of the width) with an off-road tread pattern. The wheel roll-in diameter is about 660 mm.
Wheel suspensions are independent, on two triangular wishbones each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). Levers are welded from round pipes of the VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car " Oka"(Back). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers - from the VAZ-2109 car. Both those and others had to be finalized. In the hubs I installed studs under the wheels from the "Niva", and in the front fists - homemade swivel levers.
The muffler is homemade, two-piece. To protect it from temperature warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.
DIY ATV body kit
ATV body kit do it yourself - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore I first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.First, I made the required contours of the body kit from a steel square pipe with a cross section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe bends easily even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be easy to cut the "tacks". Then he bent the "wings" from hardboard (fiberboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and lintels. Where the bend turned out to be steep, I fastened separate strips of the same hardboard. The front end was taken out with expanded polystyrene purchased from a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene or the same polyurethane foam, but expanded polystyrene turned out to be a more suitable material - it is cut well with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a general structure on polyurethane foam.
Diy ATV drawings
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Diy ATV frame drawings
The false tank is of a complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the space intended for it with layers of polyurethane foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise a thick foam volume may not dry out inside. I filled it until the layers went beyond the outline. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, he began to deduce the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse sandpaper.
Under instrument cluster part of the Oka dashboard was used. I also fixed it on the disc with the help of polyurethane foam. Since the foam is large-pored, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to respond to the conceived design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the dummy, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, then plastering with plaster and painting the dummy could be neglected.
So, the idiot is ready and in order to glue a high-quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 running meters of non-thick fiberglass, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. Wearing breathing protection is highly desirable. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable. But experience, as you know, cannot be bought, so I gained it in the process.
I used transparent tape as a separating layer between the dummy and the product. Carefully, without gaps, the whole blockhead pasted over it with stripes. It took only 1.5 rolls of wide tape.
Diluted resin in 200 - 300 grams with hardener and plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before that, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases lay on flat surfaces, and on irregularities, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making folds. By the way, fiberglass stretches moderately along the diagonal of the weave, "wrapping" the desired shape.
First, he spread thickly with epoxy resin one area of the boob, put glass cloth on it and soaked it on top again with resin. The adjacent piece of fabric was glued using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. We had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also warmed up the resin a little near a powerful illumination lamp for better fluidity.
After pasting the dummy with fiberglass in one layer, he began to paste over it with glass mat. I got the glass mat quite thick, and it turned out to be good for them to gain the thickness of the product. But it does not fit irregularities, so I used it only on even (or with a slight deflection) surfaces and without overlap. Resin impregnation was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be taken into account that a lot of resin for impregnation of glass mat takes a lot, so you need to dilute it more. After gluing the glass mat, I glued the uneven surfaces in several layers with a cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had set a little, so that the resin would not leak out. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day's break, it was necessary to "rough" the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease - after all, the resin hardens completely during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even one layer.
Since I needed a surface, as they say, the smoother the better, and the experience was not enough, the dips and pits still remained - I poured them somewhere with one resin, and sometimes with the imposition of pieces of fiberglass. There was not enough resin. I bought it already in the household store, in boxes. I liked working with her more, because it was already packaged, and all that remained was to mix the components. And it dried faster than the one purchased at the firm.
After the glued body kit had completely dried, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: rear fenders and a rear, a false tank with a sub-seat, front fenders and a front end. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands with poking, he separated the product in parts without much effort from the dummy.
Now, having removed the parts, I began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, ordinary preparatory and painting works on the "whole" technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstaking filling of recesses with fiberglass putty; then sanding the outer surface and a primer with a plasticizer. In conclusion - painting with "metallic" and coating with varnish with a plasticizer.
The blockhead also carefully cut and put it in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded "in place" mounts on the frame.
In conclusion, I welded the front and rear trunks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them - "kenguryatniks" replacing the bumpers.
DIY ATV video
