The purpose of the project was to create fixtures for mounting and dismantling springs suspension passenger cars, in other words, screed for springs. The device must meet many requirements. It should be used for springs different types those. Springs of various heights, different diameters, stiffness. It should be easy to use and maintain. Compliant safety requirements and differ in high reliability.
To work with the device requires minimum qualifications. In order to dismantle the spring from a telescopic stand of a passenger car, you need the following: First, of course, remove the telescopic rack from the car, then you need to submit air into a pneumatic cylinder for divorce captures to the desired distance from each other, i.e. To engage the maximum possible number of springs turns. After that, it is necessary to install the spring to the device and how it has already been said to capture the maximum number of turns, as well as the capture hooks reliably kept the springs springs reliably. Next, we supply the air into a pneumatic cylinder which leads to the movement of the grip and thereby squeeze the spring.
The main part of the device is a pneumatic cylinder. In the upper part (on the pneumatic rod), the capture is attached, on which the hooks for engagement of the springs are installed and is mounted on a pneumatic cylinder rod with a nut. Directly on the top of the pneumatic cylinder is fastened lower grip, in which two stops for engaging the rack are inserted.
The Lower Capture itself is collected from the following component parts: Bracket, in which two paws are inserted into which, after two stops are inserted. The paws are moved using the screw on which the right and left thread is cut, and the bushings with appropriate threads are pressed in the legs.
Details of development
Details of development
Details of development
6.1 Overview of existing devices for disassembling depreciation rack
6.2 Description of the designed fixture for installation and dismantling springs
6.3 Project Calculation
6.3.1 Calculation of the required diameter of the pneumatic cylinder
6.3.2 Calculation of the strength of the scraping stud
6.3.3 Calculation of the cylinder for strength
6.3.4 Calculation of the fastening screwing screw
6.3.5 Verification Calculation of Upper Capture Laptop
6.3.6 Verification Calculation of the bending foot grip
6.3.7 Verification calculation of the lower stop on bending
6.3.8 Verification calculation of the bottom stop on bending
6.4 Calculation of the cost of manufacturing device
6.4.1 Complete wages of manufacturing workers employed on the assembly
6.4.2 Additional salary assembly
6.4.3 Promotional Overhead Production Expenses
6.4.4 Calculation of Indicators of Economic Efficiency
Explanatory note 21 sheets of description and calculations, specifications.
When repairing or adjusting the car suspension, the need arises to fix the spring in a certain position.
For these works, there is a service device: the springs puller, with which you can remove the elements of chassis both in a specialized workshop and in garage conditions.
Various tool concepts:
Consider the second option.
How does the springs puller work, and what are they?
Why do you need a puller? It overcomes the straightening force of the springs. The attached strength on the holder brackets is commensurate with the weight of the car, but this does not mean that its design is too expensive and high-tech.
There are many options, but they are divided into just two types: mechanical and hydraulic drive.
Mechanical puller springs
Most often has a threaded drive mechanism. 
With a sufficient diameter of the hairpin (providing good gear ratio on a thread), and a long key handle, it is possible to compress the springs manually without excessive effort.
Technology Next: Two puller are symmetrically put on a rack. Watching the heel with a carvings, you cut the grippers to the middle of the spring right on the shock absorber, squeezing it to the desired size.
IMPORTANT: Why cannot be used for a mechanical puller one? When compressing, the spring is strung out, it is impossible to control this process.
Setting one puller on the spring will lead to his breakdown
Extracts, suitable on both sides, provide uniform compression. When working with suspension trucks Or heavy SUVs, experienced wizards set 3 or even 4 puller.
Proper installation Embrellars on the spring
Semi-stationary racks
At the service stations often use semi-stationary racks for removing springs from shock absorbers. 
The tool is quite universal, suitable for most suspension. Thanks to the drive mechanism reducer, it is convenient and safe to work with it.
The only drawback is not always possible to squeeze the spring right by car. Still, this is a bench device: the puller works with a suspension, removed from the car.
Popular: Clamp makes it easier to work with the master and saves his money
Lever type
A similar "problem" in lever-type pullers. The mechanism is reliable and safe, but its dimensions do not allow to bring to the space under the wing of the car. 
Hydraulic puller
It can be portable and stationary. Works on the principle of the jack: there is a main and working cylinder. Pumping fluid using a lever handle, the operator compresses the power brackets, between which the spring is located. 
The compact two-section puller can become an assistant and in home garageBut the floor stationary machine is suitable only for car service. 
Pressure B. hydraulic system injected with a foot lever. At the same time, the hands of the car mechanic are free, it is convenient and safe to work.
Of course, there are pullers with compressors, electric drive, and other devices facilitating life when servicing the car. All this is good until you see the price tag.
Sometimes it is more profitable to visit the car service several times than to purchase an industrial puller for personal use. Which exit? Making a tool with your own hands.
Production of shock absorber springs
Many motorists enjoy the usual chain: they make a few turns around the springs around the turns, and tighten the chain. After lifting the car by jack, the depreciation rack is stretched, and the spring remains compressed. This is a dangerous way: if the chain slides, the strainable spring can cause a serious injury.
How to make the simplest puller by analogy with industrial
Mechanical semi-seated "machine" can be created from the "Volgovsky" jack.
Materials used:
Drill, Bulgarian, a file, a welding machine - such a set either in the garage, or is available from a neighbor for a couple of beers. To the top of the jack (where the turntable with a gearbox is located) the platform from the corner is assembled. Then the bracket is welded to the size of the support cup. 
We screw the connecting rod to the regular support lever of the jack, the shock absorber will enter it. 
No need to worry about the strength of the structure. The jack raises the car, the connecting rod is also withstanding a huge load. And to enhance the cantilever bracket design, weld thrust from the shock absorber rods. 
The puller is universal: the length of the shock absorber allows you to serve any racks for passenger cars, as well as most SUVs. 
The next springs puller, which is easy to make with your own hands - tightening type. Suitable for small springs, since it is unrealistic to develop on such an adaptation. 
Components even more affordable than in the previous design. A piece of pipe, corner and a long bolt M14 - M18. You can use the hairpin.
From the corner and sawn pieces of the inch tube weld the brackets. The puller consists of two identical screeds, so that the brackets must be four. 
Be sure to weld the guide sleeves for the stud. Otherwise, when tightening the brackets will be twisted. 
The spring is tightened when synchronous twisting nuts on the hairpins. If you use a set of 2 screeds - set them should be strictly symmetrically.
Alone and is not afraid to stain your hands. Also, this device will be convenient for fixing various pipes for their processing or welding.
In order to make a device for disassembling suspension racks with your own hands, you will need:
* Corchesmaker, cutting wheel, enforced metal brush
* Metal lathe
* Drilling machine, metal drill 10 mm
* Metal corner 25 mm
* Manual vice
* Schuncirkul
* Pencil, roulette
* Drill or screwdriver
* Schwell 200mm
* Stiletto M12 and nut to her
* Profile pipe 20 * 20 mm
* Welding machine, electrodes
* Protective Glasses, Welding Mask, Crague, Headphones
* Vice
* Plastic plug for profile pipe
* Roll-paint spray
Step one.
First you need to clean the workpiece from rust, with this task it perfectly copes a corner-lining machine with an enlighted metal brush.
When working with a corner machine, be careful, wear safety glasses, gloves, as well as headphones.
Since there will be a savings for this homemade, it will make it from angle of 63 mm. With the help of the calipers, we make marking on a metal corner, the savage must be 25 mm wide.
Next, begin to freeze the desired part from the corner with the help of the ESM with the cutting circle installed in it. After sawing, we get two such blanks with a width of 25 mm.
From the tires measure 200 mm and cut off with the help of a coal-glare machine four identical billets.
Their edges are desirable to stick a little to not be hurt.
Step second.
Next, set the kerner to the edge, retreating about 10 mm and make a small deepening.
After that, fix the workpiece in the vice and with the help of a drilling machine we make two holes along the edges with a diameter of 10 mm. In the process of drilling periodically add technical oilSo the drill will be less loaded, which means longer to keep the cutting edge sharpening. Also do not forget about the means individual protection, Protective glasses are required.
From angle of 25 mm in size, we cut off the two blanks with a length of 50 mm with the help of a corner machine.
If necessary, this size can be enlarged.
Step Three.
Drilled around the edges of the shine divide exactly in half.
We install the previously cut piece of the corner on the middle line and we make markup with it.
Next on the markup scam unnecessary part With the assistant, securing the tire in the vice, then try on the 25th corner.
Then, from a piece of the 200th channel, cut off a strip of 25 mm wide and a length of 140 mm, using a corner machine. As a result, it turns out a blank with a thickness of 9 mm, which is quite enough for a rigid design.
On this workpiece, there are five points for future holes at the same distance. After that, we make a cerpection and drill holes with a diameter of 10 mm on a drilling machine, securing the part in the manual vice.
As a result, such a part with five holes should be obtained.
Step fourth.
All items are virtually ready, you need to make a washer on a turning machine for metal, which is simply reusing from a metal rod of the required diameter. Also we make bar with through holeTo replace which you can take the usual tube of the desired diameter. Then you need to weld a long nut. The base for consolidation in the vice will be a profile pipe with a size of 20 * 20 mm.
Pitch fifth.
Now they are doing welding work. With the help of bolts and manual vice collecting the design of the bus. To her weld the corner into a special cuttle, made in advance. When working with a welding machine, be careful, as well as use personal protective equipment, such as welding mask and crags.
After welding, this part is obtained.
Slag remove with a hammer, after which the welding seam is cleaned with a metal brush installed in a drill or screwdriver. We need to do two, similar actions we produce with another workpiece. To one of these parts with a corner weld the profile tube strictly in the middle.
The washer made on the machine welded to the heel.
Operation and repair of any motorcycle depends primarily on the driver's skill, but not only from his skill, and also from the tool and the convenience of devices. And disassemble and repair many aggregates (engine, kp, rear axle, chassis, etc.) only with the help of a hammer and ordinary horned keys if it will be possible, then without damage the details it does not pass.
For competent repair (without damage), you need a special tool and fixtures, with which it is possible to ensure the accuracy of the combination of parts and their alignment, the required force, etc., well, and do not bother yourself. In this article, we will look at several devices that will significantly facilitate the repair of domestic heavy motorcycles.
Device for assembling wheels.
Figure 1 shows a useful tool that will help to easily assemble the motorcycle wheel (for example, when replacing the hub, rim or spokes). The base of the device is a disk, a thickness of 35 mm (in the middle side a little thicker), which can be filled from a textolite or thick plywood (Phaneur can use thin, but glued out of several layers).
1 - Stiletto clamp (8 pcs), 2 - Rim Wheels, 3 - Spokes, 4 - Hub, 5 - Nut Axis, 6 - washer or sleeve, 7 - Plate ledge stop for rim (8 pcs.), 8 - sleeve , 9 - wheel axis, 10 - Rim stop screw (16 pcs.), 11 - Clamp nut (studs).
When working, the wheel (or rim) is stacked on the disk (see Figure 1, b) and then you need to push the knitting needles a bit. Then B. central hole The wheel sleeve is inserted into the disk, and the wheel axis is inserted into the sleeve. Then, the washer 6 is put on the axis and everything is fastened with nut 5. Rim 2 is attracted by homemade clamps 1 and after that all the knitting needles are evenly tightened.
With this device, the details of the wheels (rim, hub, knitting needles) initially, even before tightening the spokes, exposed exactly and accuracy of the assembly here is guaranteed. Yes, and the work on the assembly of the wheel can be made much easier and faster.
A more convenient and versatile stapel for assembling motorcycle wheels can be made as shown in the video slightly lower, but for such a design, you will need to purchase a cartridge from the lathe.
But someone does not work when assembling, and the wheel after assembly becomes a curve, it is not difficult to attach it to the suspension of the corresponding spokes. I wrote this in detail about this in the article "How to Align the Deformed Motorcycle Wheel" - the article is located.
Reminder for the engine flywheel and rear bearing housing.
Permanent valve
1 - plate (90x100), 2 - sleeve, 3 - lever for pressure on the springs plate.
Figure 3 shows the device to dry up valves of the domestic opposite. And in Figure 4 shows the support 1, which is fixed from the head of the head combustion chamber with two studs M8. And the support (in the combustion chamber) is resting (in the combustion chamber) with a special bar in the valve plates so that the valves do not open when equipping.
1 - shock absorber, 2 - locking, 3 - extension cord, 4 - plug puff plug.
It happens that after long operation or even a long-term downtime of the motorcycle in the garage, the front suspension springs from the fatigue of the metal slightly seated and the posture of the bike is broken (and decreases ground clearance). The plug of heavy domestic motorcycles is not long, but there is also a drawdown of springs. The special inserts for the springs will help to correct the case, which will need to be ordered, according to Figure 6.
From the hexagon on 13 it will be necessary to sharpen the extension 3 (2 pieces), which will need to turn to the rod of fork 1, and correct the lock nut 2. And on top, on the hexagon's hexaglet, the plug's pen plug with native knobs. This inserts will not only be recovered the length of the feathers of the fork, but also the fork itself will become a little hard, because the rigidness of the sponded springs is always lacking.
Synchronizer of carburetors.
Adjust the synchronization of the carburetors is not so simple (Read more about synchronization). The device shown in Figure 7 will help one carburerator to feed the other if the synchronization setting is slightly upset. Installing this device, besides the operation of the opposite motor with a softer, stable, and will allow slightly reduced fuel consumption. The main jets of regular carburetors with marking 210 can be replaced with jets with marking 185, which have a slightly smaller bandwidth.
It will allow a bit fuel mixturewhat together with electronic ignition, (about which) will reduce fuel consumption (especially on medium turnover), without reducing engine power. Yes, and the engine launch will noticeably improve, especially in cool weather.
The device consists of two washers made of duralle or brass (bronze) installed between cylinder heads and carburetors. In the washers should be screwed on epoxy glue (or cold welding) fittings made of copper or brass tubes, with a diameter of 8 - 9 mm. The washers set to each head in front of the carburetor (between the carburetor and the intake flange), with gaskets from a paronite and then wear a benz-resistant rubber hose on the fittings, connecting the fittings of both washers with each other with this hose and hose (conducting a hose under the engine).
Now, if some carburetor will lack fuel, it will be fueled combustible mixture From the second carburetor and interruptions on any modes are excluded. Washers can be made not as in the drawing round, but to apply them in the form of the flange of the carburetor and the inlet nozzle, and polish the edges of the flange, which I did on my motorcycle. Well, if you need synchronization of carburetors using vacuumometers, then from the fittings you will need to remove the hose connecting them and connect the hoses from vacuumometers to them.
I hope that simple adaptations described in this article will help the owners of heavy domestic motorcycles, faster, easier and without damage to the parts to repair the bike and at least a little improve it performance features; Successes to all.
One of the main procedures for repairing the front suspension is to replace the racks. This refers to cars with suspension MacPherson, when the rack is collected. That is, the rack is a shock absorber, spring and a support with a cup. All this is fixed with a nut, which is screwed onto the shock absorber rod. As a result, the rack is in constant "combat readiness", when the spring works for compression, and the shock absorber.
But in this article we want to tell not about the work of the racks, but how hard it is sometimes necessary to carunts when removing the spring. The fact is that the spring on the rack is quite powerful, which means the effort of its compression is very large. As a result, when sprinkling the nut on the spring rod can "shine", which can lead to injury. Yes, moreover, during the back assembly, the question will be asked how to assemble the rack back, that is, to squeeze the spring. To help car enthusiasts in this case are proposed mainly all kinds of springs. Usually it is a system of rugs with hooks or washers. As a result, the combination of springs occurs due to the twisting nut along the heel. This method of removing the spring is quite vital, however, has its drawbacks. The main of which is a great time to twist the sprinkling of the hairpins. In this article, we would like to offer you another alternative, perfectly asking for this task, while it requires a much smaller effort from the mechanic.
Device for quick disassembly of racks, replacement (compression) springs on them in the garage with their own hands
The principle of operation of this device is based on an increase in torque due to changes in the shoulder of the application of force. You can say a classic solution for most cases in mechanics. So the points of the support will be the wall to which the console is traditionally shred and the rack or rather spring. Here, the efforts attached to the rack will depend on the length of the lever of the shoulder. In fact, these are the knobs of our device. You can simply sit and human weight are enough to squeeze the spring. Take a look at the drawing.
And now in order, as it will be replaced, the removal of the spring from the rack. Initially, it is necessary to breed the shoulders of fixtures and install on a cup over the spring. Next, we fix the shoulders to be fixed, for example, a pipe segment.
Dale just sit down on the pipe and thereby squeeze the spring. The spring's effort can be adjusted with your own body, sitting on the lever a little further or closer to the rack. We unscrew the nut holding the rotary support and the springs cup.
Neatfully get up, thereby removing the stress of compression on the spring itself, which is still installed on the rack. After straightening the springs, we remove it from the rack.
Installation and compression of the new springs produce in the reverse order.
Summarizing the springs removal ...
It must be said that the use of such adaptation is justified especially in cases where the replacement of the spring on the racks of this type occurs often. Mostly it is car service. It should also be noted that the device is universally. It can dismantle the springs from the racks of any car, in fact changing the height of the shoulder, which is pressed the spring. Works related to the removal and replacement of the spring when applying such a device will be significantly simplified, which is perhaps the determining factor in solving the issue of making something similar in your garage.
