Introducing the Quadrocycle of our permanent author S. Plentneva from the city of Points of Perm Region. The next car constructed indicates the increased design level and the professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself ...
Labor year 3 - 4 hours after work and on weekends - and new car It was ready for testing, there were only small (and I would say pleasant) refinement: connecting light equipment, installing the ignition lock, rear view mirrors and other little things.
Quad bike from Okey with your own hands
The power unit for my self-made Quadrocycle was the motor from the "Oka" - 32-strong, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid cooling. And if for the car its power often turned out to be not enough, then for the Quad bike should have been enough with interest.Machine frame - spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: the upper and lower) are made of round tubes of type VGP-25 (water-based diameter of 25 mm with a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (so-in, crossbar, etc.) - from WGT-20. Spars - bent: the lower in the horizontal plane, the top - in the vertical. Flex a pipe on the pipe bender, "on the cold". The eyeles (pairs of ears) for fastening the levers and shock absorbers of the suspension welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets - as nodes and aggregates (by "place").
Transmission of all pass - peculiar. Although the machine is all-wheel drive, but dispensing box There is no. As you know, the engine is located in the "Oka", and on the Quad bike it is set along. This allowed to direct the output shafts from the transmission change box (CAT) not on the right and left wheel (both in the car), but on the front and rear axle. That's just myself force aggregate, Breakfied with a "basket" of clutch and gearbox, had to be moved relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry a little left to reduce the horizontal angle of longitudinal swivels of transmissions. Well, their vertical angles were insignificant.
Sound transmission from units of various domestic cars, mostly "VAZ" models. But the finished industrial aggregates also had to refine. For example, from the PPC (from "Oka") to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase the torque deleted the main gear pair and replaced it on chain transmission. The shifting stock also made another - extended, with releases on both sides of the checkpoint. The rod can be recorded in three positions: to include the 1st and 2nd gear, 3rd and 4th and rear. The selection lever of these provisions is on the right side, and the speed switch lever is with the left.
Intercole reducers - OT rear axles VAZ "Classics", only their semi-axes together with "stockings" are removed and replaced with shafts with shurthers from front-wheel drive models. Shruses as hinges are used in the remaining intermediate trash shafts.
There are no reduced gears and blocking differentials.
Steering - Motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automotive type (with steering rods) - downstairs, just simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one compartment. The steering wheel first used from the Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a bit thin. Later found and set from the "Ural" motorcycle. The steering shaft is from the pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a thickness of the wall of 2.8 mm. At the bottom end, it has a stroke limiter. At the bottom of the shaft rests on the stubborn bearing, and in the middle part turns into the junction of the piping bracket-sleeve.
The sump is made of a steel sheet with a thickness of 8 mm in a form resembling the letter "T". The edge of the "racks" performed a hole with a diameter of 20 mm - the steering shaft is inserted into it, and in the ears - the tapered holes under the ball tips of the steering. These holes are enhanced by suitable welded washers. The bark ears are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the traction.
Wheels quadrocycla - 15-inch, from the car "Chevrolet-Niva". Tires with an appropriate planting diameter of 205/70 (width / height as a percentage of width) with off-road tread pattern. The diameter of the wheel running is about 660 mm.
Suspension wheels - independent, on two triangular transverse levers each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the "Oka" car (front). The levers are welded from round tubes of type VGP-20. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car " Oka"(Rear). In the wheels of the front levers, the hubs are welded and swivel fists - From the car VAZ-2109. And those and others had to modify. In the hubs installed studs under the wheels from "Niva", and in the front fists - home-made swivel levers.
The muffler is homemade, two-piece. To protect against temperature storage boxes, covered with a remote cover, and insulated asbestos inlet.
Body kit for quad bike
KVAD biccles DIY - fiberglass. Inteced it for the first time, and therefore first examined the recommendations for the implementation of the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.First made from steel square pipe section 10x10x1 mm Required body contours. Fortunately, this pipe is easily neat even with his hands through the knee. The contour welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where then (after dusting of the kit), it would be possible to cut the "tape". Then, bent from an organity (wood-fiber plate) "Wings" and fixed them with self-draws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend was obtained steep, fastened individual strips from the same organity. The front was removed by polystyrene foam purchased in a shopping store. It was possible to use foam or the same mounting foam, but the polystyrene foam turned out to be a more appropriate material - it is well cut in a sharp thin knife. Separate elements of it glued into the overall design on the mounting foam.
Quad bike do it yourself drawings
Press-\u003e Increase
Quadrocycle frame do it yourself drawings
Filshbak - complex shape. It did not seem to be taken out of the organity. Therefore, by climbing the engine with a plastic film, it began to fill the places of the mounting foam intended for it. After each layer is a mandatory drying, otherwise the thick volume of the foam may not dry inside. Filled until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after complete drying, the foam became a knife to withdraw the desired form of the face, smoothed with coarse sandpaper.
Under dashboard went into the course of dashboard "Oka". I fastened it on the blank, too, using a mounting foam. Since foam is a large, pores filled with plaster and then processed. When the shape of the blanks began to answer the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, covered the workpiece of PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make the matrix on the nerve for dusting of the kit, and immediately soldered the bodywork on it, followed by the end of the surface to the perfect state, then the shpocking of the plaster and the painting of the nerve could be neglected.
So, the Bolon is ready and to solder the quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer to it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 robust meters are not thick fiberglass, 5 m of glass, brushes, gloves. It is very desirable to work in the means that protect the breath. And what they are more expensive, the more reliable. But the experience, as you know, do not buy, so it was gained in the process of work.
A transparent scotch used as a separation layer between the nerd and the product. Thoroughly, without skipping, glued to his stripes. There was only 1.5 rolls of wide scotch.
Divorced a resin on 200 - 300 grams with a hardener and plasticizer. Applied measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before that, cut the strips of fiberglass with such dimensions so that large cloths lay on the smooth surfaces, and on the irregularities, the sections of the fabric were able to repeat them without making folds. By the way, fiberglass to the measure stretches on the diagonal of the weave, "flowing" the desired form.
At first, one piece of nerve was smelled to thick epoxy resin, put the fiberglass on it and the resin was again impregnated from above. The neighboring piece of the cloth was glued by the same technology with a twist of 3 - 5 cm. Work had a spore - resin grabbed pretty quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, another resin has a slightly heated near the powerful lighting lamp for better flow.
After gluing a fiberglass in one layer, began to shit it with glassate. The glass made me quite thick, and they turned out to be good to dial the thickness of the product. But it does not fit irregularities, so I used it only on even (or with unrocked deflection) surfaces and without a twist. The impregnation of the resin was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be considered that the resin for the impregnation of the glassmate goes a lot, so it is necessary to breed it more. Uneven surfaces after the stickers of the glassmate went into a few layers of the cloth. Each subsequent layer imposed after the previously gripped the previous one, so as not to break down the resin. And since the process of body cutting took no one day, after a day of the break "rough" the surface of large sandpaper and degrease - because the resin is completely cured during this time. The final layers over the mat again covered the glass kits, and not even one layer.
Since I needed the surface, as they say, than it is even better, the better, and the experience was not enough, then the failures and pits still remained - poured them wherever one resin, and where and with the imposition of fiberglass pieces. The resins did not have enough. I did not buy in Khozmaga, in boxes. I liked working with her more, because it was already packaged, and it remained only to mix the components. And she dried quickly than acquired on the company.
After a complete drying of the soldered body kit made a propyl in it, separating the product to three parts: rear wings and a back, a rashhead with a podswing, front wings and front. Caution, slightly going down and pulling out with arms with hint, separated the product in parts without much effort from the nerd.
Now, removing the part, began to process them separately, bringing to the desired result. In general, ordinary preparatory and painting work on "all" technology: first coarse grinding with the removal of large resin and fiberglass convexities; Then the painstaking embezzlement with a putty with fiberglass recesses; Next, grinding the outer surface and primer with a plasticizer. In conclusion - painting "metallic" and a coating with a varnish with a plasticizer.
The boyfriend also cut off and put it in a distant corner - just in case. Bidding attached to specially made and welded "on the place" fasteners on the frame.
At the end, it was welded from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm front and rear trunk, and in addition to them - and "kenguryatniki" replacing bumpers.
Quad bike do it yourself video
Unfortunately, not every person has the opportunity to purchase a quad bike in the store. All over or less interesting models are now quite expensive, and buy a quad bike support is always a certain risk. In this regard, many motorists advise to make a four-wheeled all-terrain vehicle personally, I use the engine and spare parts from some old Soviet motorcycle. Previously, we already told you about how to make a quad bike from the Ural motorcycle. In today's article, we will talk about other donors that you can use if you decide to collect quad bike with your own hands.
Why should you collect quad bike with your own hands?
Collect a four-wheeled all-terrain vehicle personally, it definitely helps to solve several problems. The first reason, because of which people decide to make a homemade quad bike, this is of course a small budget. If you analyze market prices for quad bikes, it can be understood that such vehicles can be considered almost for luxury. Prices for the simplest and low-power models begin from 150 thousand rubles, for example, Yamaha Blaster YFS200. Such a single "quadric" is in principle enough, but the capacity will be lacking forever.
But the models of quad bikes with engines, 500-800 cm 3 will cost much more expensive, about 500 thousand rubles. Chinese models, such as russian manufacturer Stels, but they will have to follow well. New all-terrain vehicles of this brand will cost approximately 300-400 thousand rubles, but the engines are already much more interesting - 45-70 hp
Nuances in the operation of homemade quadric
If you definitely decided to make a quad bike with your own hands, then you should know about the intricacies of its operation. In principle, if all-terrain vessels are needed for riding on impassive places, where patrol cars never happened, then worrying, probably nothing. You will have to face problems if you are planning to ride even on small settlements, which sometimes come patrol cars. Catching you without documents for this vehicle, then with a probability of 99% you will take it. All the difficulty is to register a self-made quad bike, because in the traffic police, you will most likely refuse. In a good way, you can register the homemade, but it is extremely difficult to do it. Therefore, the assembly of the self-made quad bike makes sense only if you exploit it in some wilderness.
Determine the choice
So how to make quad bike with your own hands? When creating a homemade quad bike, we need to decide on the donor, that is, a motorcycle that will underlie our project. For the four-wheeled all-wheel drive, old soviet motorcycles. With them, we can borrow the engine with a gearbox, frame, steering wheel and if you wish, details such as a tank, seating and other elements. Since we have already had an article about homemade quad bike from the Ural motorcycle, then in this review we will talk about how to make a quad bike based on the IL motorcycle.
For our goal, we will suit almost all models of motorcycles from the Izhevsk plant. The only thing that is important to understand is the engine power. Still, the final result will be quite heavy design, so the best solution will be the use of the latest models - Izh Jupiter 5 or IL Planet 5. More interesting models, like Izh Planet Sport consider no sense, because it's not easy to find them, but if possible , it is better to restore them, because the motorcycle is quite rare and interesting. Go to the main thing, how to make a quad bike and what is needed for this.
Rear suspension
Once you have decided on the donor, in our case it is Izh Jupiter 5, you must fully disassemble the motorcycle. After disassembly, we will need a frame on which everything was holding, including the engine. It is quite logical that to increase the reliability of the design, the frame must be strengthened in several places.
Now you need to cook the rear axle so that instead of the wheel on the axis, the bearing block with the chain drive can be up. An example, you can see in the photo. As a suspension, you can use conventional shock absorbers from the motorcycle, and for the rear axle it will be details from the old car Zhiguli. You can go more complicated and install a monoamorter, but then again you will have to look for spare parts from the car, for example, with the same Zhiguli or Oka.
Front suspension
As soon as the rear suspension is completed and installed, you can move to the front of the motorcycle, in which everything is somewhat more complicated. In the case when we dealt with rear suspensionWe had the opportunity to choose how many shock absorber will be installed. When creating the front suspension, we have only one option - use two shock absorber.
The Oka car is perfectly suitable for the front part of the Quadrocycle. With it we will need shock absorbers, rotary knots and steering trapezium. However, be prepared for the fact that spare parts will still have to change, - something to weld, cut off, to refine. Also not bad and more simple optionwill install a monoblock with fixed wheel planes. Then you do not have to look for a steering trapeze, couplings, hinges and other parts.
The monoblock is a truly simple option, because it will take the installation literally time. The only minus of such a front suspension design is a heavier mechanism. Turn the steering wheel will be somewhat more complicated than when suspension with shock absorbers.
Engine
Many wondering how to make quad bike with their own hands, they understand what to start with the engine. And indeed, the main detail in the future ATV is the engine. From how powerful it will depend on the final result, and in general the whole design. Of course, you can leave the engine from the donor motorcycle, but as a result, "quadric" will not be so powerful. If it is a little more serious to approach the creation of all-pass, then the installation of a more powerful engine will be an excellent solution. We hope that we answered your question about how to make a quad bike.
Work on your project I started about a year ago. I collected my homemade quad bike, mainly after work and on the weekend for 2-3 hours, no more.
And here, after 11 months, all the big work was completed (there were small refinement in the form of electricians, the ignition castle and other little things) and I decided that the prototype is ready for testing and the first photo shoot.
The engine for my brainchild served as a used motor from Oka. Two-cylinder, thirty-two strong unit, according to my calculation, should have done perfectly with a slight quadric.
The base of the quad bike served as old eye
Rama spatial, welded from steel water pipes. The top and bottom pairs of the spars are made of Pipe of WGP-25 (25x3.2 mm) for auxiliary elements (crossbars, so-called, and so on.) I decided to do the trumpets of the WGT-20.
All spars are bent on the pipe bending machine. Lower spars I bent in the horizontal plane, the top in the vertical. Fastening for levers and shock absorbers welded immediately after the manufacturer of the frame, everything else welded and customized as the builds.
Drawing of quadrocyclas
The machine is made on the all-wheel drive scheme, but without a dispensing box. It so happened due to the fact that the Okey engine managed to deploy along the frame and send the output shafts from the checkpoint directly to bridges, front and rear. To reduce horizontal corners of longitudinal hinges power installation With clutch and box, it was necessary to shift to the left (relative to the longitudinal axis of symmetry).
Transmission homemade is collected from factory aggregates from the domestic "classics" with some modifications. For example, to increase the torque from the checkpoint from Oci, the main gear pair was removed and replaced with a chain transmission. There is no blocking of differentials and reduced.
Kinematic transmission scheme
Made an extended gear shifting, with releases on both sides of the CAT. It has two fixed positions - one to switch 1-2 transmissions, the second 3-4 and reversing.
From the rear axles of the VAZ were made of inter-wheeled gearboxes. The source bridges were redesigned: removed semi-axes and replaced with shafts with the shurts that I borrowed from the front-wheel drive model "Classics". By the way, I used these same shoes in transmissions as intermediate shafts.
Management is implemented as follows. The upper part is the lever and the shaft, the bottom - with the steering rods, as in the car, but with one piece. Initially, the steering wheel was used from the Minsk motorcycle, but later replaced by Uralsky, due to great strength. The steering shaft of the upper part is made of a pipe 20x3mm with a running limiter at the bottom.
The bottom of the shaft is inserted into the support bearing, the middle part is fixed in the bracket-sleeve. The steel sheet 8mm made a t-shaped tower. The bark ears bent down so that they are almost parallel to the traction.
The steering shaft is inserted and welded into the opening of 20mm at the edge of the rack, and the tips of the steering in the ears are dried with tapered holes and reinforced with welded washers.
Do everyone remember this miracle? So, wishes will find further drawings for this quadrocycle, to collect it with their own hands!
Universal motor vehicle that I developed is intended for movement on any roads and forest paths; In addition, it can tow a trailer weighing up to 250 kg. The car is operated for three years already, but I did not have comments on the device, manageability and reliability.
IN winter time It is easy to re-equip, replacing rear wheels on pneumatics and installing a steering ski in front; The machine is thus turning into a snowmobile, and it takes less than a transformation. Usage in the manufacture of all-terrain available materialsThe simplicity of the design may well provide the repetition of the machine even in the conditions of a home workshop.
MTS frame is made of round-section pipes, square profiles and corners. Its feature is the detachable connections that allow you to remove the steering column assembly when the engine is installed, as well as the beam of the front axle. Each of the connectors consists of a conventional "plumbing" coupling, currency and locking.
For the tension of the circuit connecting the engine with the gearbox, the engine frame (part of the Motorcycle Motorcycle) moves; The axis of the rear wheels with bearings also has the ability to move in the longitudinal direction, which allows you to adjust the tension of the second chain connecting the gearbox with rear axis. Front and rear wings are removable (in the snowmobile version they are missing). The docking of the frame elements was made by electric welding.
Motor vehicle engine - from Motocycle "Minsk", I have no comments for his work. Possible, of course, setting more powerful engines - from the Motorcycle "Sunrise" or Motor Tula "; It is only necessary to adjust the frame size below them. The choice of "Minsk" engine was due to its economy and low mass. Its power turned out to be quite sufficient for traveling on a snowmobile with a passenger, a tug of a skier or a sled is also possible. The launchers of the motor and summer and winter are quite satisfactory.
The way control of the summer version of the motor vehicle is provided by turning the front wheels with two cras; For the winter version there is a lever and a thrust connecting it with a ski fork. The latter is borrowed from the moped. Front axle - From Motocolus Szd, though, a slightly diminished: plots and central parts are cut out of its beams (with a Torsion mount bolt) cooked with peripherals (with hollows of suspension levers). IN winter version Levers, swivel fists, thrust and torsions are dismantled.
The steering wheel is from the Motor Tourist, it is perfectly joined with the steering shaft Bolt M10. Standard controls, motorcycle. The brake lever is associated with a cable with brake padsinstalled on the gearbox.
Reducer. Its foundation was the hub of the rear wheel of the Motoroller "Tula-200", to which from the side brake drum Welded asterisk. The rear axle drive is carried out with a chain with a step of 19 mm. The transmission brake allows you to significantly simplify the design of the rear axle. The asterisk on the axis is fixed by the M14 bolt, the hubs of the running wheels are attached, as shown in the drawings. As the basis of the gearbox, you can use not only the hub of the wheel "tourist", but also other motorcycles.
The axis of the leading wheels is a rod with a diameter of 30 mm; Ends of it is flowing to Ø25 mm, accurate hubs are put on these places. Wheels are used from motoclasts size 5.00x10.0. Winter wheels Normal for tire pneumatic low pressure Constructions: with plywood discs, aluminum lodges and fastening the chamber with straps. Bearings Axis two-row, they have conical inserts with nuts that are well fixed axis and do not require high processing accuracy.
Optional equipment. It can be attributed to the front and rear triggers, headlights, light signals and stop signals; The places of their attachment are shown in the drawings.
The construction of the all-terrain vehicle is simple, it can be made literally in a few days in a fairly primitive workshop - of course, if there are all components of the nodes. And the possibilities of using such a car are the widest: as a winch when plowing the garden, for the drive of a disk saw, as the simplest garden tractor (excellent passability of arable land, therefore, cultivation, hyphenation, etc. is possible. In addition, it is possible to increase the permeability by setting the rear wheels. You can also mount the reverse gearbox from the motocolar zoom, in which the differential is replaced with the shaft, and then the all-terrain rear transmission. The rubber wear due to the lack of differential is not observed, and it does not affect manageability.
