Instructions for the speedometer spinner 2011.
Work description:
When connecting the speedometer knob to the diagnostic socket. The spinner indicator will light up for 3 seconds. Indicating that the power of the speedometer twist is present, and it begins to work. Then the indicator goes out for 2 seconds, and starts quickly with an interval of 0.5 seconds to display the operating mode number. After that, the spinner checks the CAN data bus and does the following.
If the CAN data bus is not connected or is not active, the indicator on the speedometer knob will light up, will not be.
If the CAN data bus is connected correctly and there is activity on it, the indicator will briefly light up for 0.25 seconds, with a pause of 2 seconds.
If the CAN data bus for parameters is suitable for winding the speedometer (the parameters of the data bus and the selected operating mode are the same.), The indicator of the speedometer winding device will be on constantly, and the winding of the speedometer will start to increase the mileage in the car. In this state, you can use the button, or by shortly bridging the 1 and 5 contacts of the five-pin connector, to switch the sub-modes of the winding device. In total, the device has 8 sub-modes switching on a ring, the last selected sub-mode is remembered. By switching the sub-modes, you can choose the speedometer winding speed that is optimal for you. The winding operation is controlled by the indicator of the main or daily mileage. In Renault Fluense only on basic mileage.
After 1-5 hours of operation of the winding of the speedometer, switching the type of car and sub-modes of operation is blocked.
Mode switching:
In order to set the desired operating mode. It is necessary to connect the winding of the speedometer to the car or apply power (4-pin ground and 16-pin +12 V), and while the indicator is on, press and hold the device button, or jumper contacts 1 and 5 of the five-pin connector in the winding of the speedometer. And while holding the button, wait until the indicator starts blinking. The number of flashes corresponds to the mode number. When the indicator flashes the required number of times, you need to release the device button, the winding of the speedometer will restart. And then the spinner will display the operating mode number (car type). We set the required mode according to the table.
Compliance with modes, car.
Spinner 2011.
1 ... Focus type-1, 2 ... Focus type-2. 3 ... Mazda-3/6, 4 ... Mazda-2.
2 . Ford.
1 ... Mondeo New, S-Max, Galaxi.
3 . Ford.
1 . Ford Transit BUS.
4 . Ford.
1 ... Ford Maveric 2006.
1 ... Camry 2.4 v1. 2 ... LC200 v. 3 ... Camry 3.5 v. 4 ... LC200 m.
5 ... Camry 3.5 m. 6 ... Camry 2.4 v2. 7 ... Prado 150. 8 ... Avensis.
6 . Nissan / Infiniti.
1 ... FX. 2 ... QX. 3 ... G35. 4 ... Pathfinder.
5 ... X-Trail 6 ... Primera. 7 ... Almera. 8 ... Teana.
1 ... Audi.
8 ... VW / Skoda
3 ... Skoda 2010 type3. 4 ... VW / Skoda.
9 . Mercedes.
1 ... W211, W164, W251, Viano 215kmh. 2 ... W221, 450kmh.
3 ... type 3. 4 ... Sprinter new, C-Class, W204.
5 ... type 5. 6 ... type 6.
7 ... type 7. 8 ... type 8.
10 . Honda.
1 . Honda civic 2008->.
11 . Opel.
1 ... Opel Zafirta, Astra, Vectra т1. 2 . Opel zafira, Astra, Vectra т2.
Connection and operating instructions.
Preparing the device for operation:
Before starting to use, the device must be prepared for the car with which it will be used. Initially, the device is shipped configured for 1 mode. How to switch the operating mode of the device is described below:
Connect the rewinder to the vehicle diagnostic socket (Ignition OFF). The device indicator will show the mode number.
Switch on the ignition. The device indicator will light up constantly. The odometer reading will start to increase. Control the winding speed using the main or daily mileage counter. If the winding speed is low or does not wind at all, switch the sub-mode of the device (by briefly pressing the button) and again control the winding speed. In total, you can switch up to 8 modes. When switching the submode, the indicator goes out for a short time. The sub-modes are switched sequentially along the ring. By switching the submodes, you can choose the winding speed that is optimal for you. The last selected mode and sub-mode of operation are saved.
Description of use:
Connect the device to the vehicle diagnostic socket. Turn on the ignition or start the engine, when the device indicator lights up constantly, control the winding speed by the mileage counter.
Do not use the rewinder on a moving vehicle!
After receiving the desired odometer reading, turn off the ignition and disconnect the device from the car.
Work description:
When the odometer rewinder is connected to the diagnostic connector, the indicator of the odometer will light up for 3 seconds, indicating that the power is present and it starts to work. Then the indicator goes out for 2 seconds and starts quickly displaying the operating mode number with an interval of 0.5 seconds. The rewinder then checks the vehicle CAN data bus and does the following:
if the CAN data bus is not connected or not active, the indicator on the odometer rewinder will not light up.
if the CAN data bus is connected correctly and there is activity on it, the indicator will briefly light up for 0.25 seconds with a pause of 2 seconds.
if the CAN data bus for parameters is suitable for winding the odometer (the parameters of the data bus and the selected operating mode are the same), the device indicator will light up constantly, and the winding of the odometer will start to increase the mileage in the car. In this state, you can switch the submodes of the winder using the button.
In total, the device has 8 sub-modes, switching on a ring, the last selected sub-mode is remembered. By switching submodes, you can select the optimal winding speed of the odometer. The work of the winding is controlled by the main or daily mileage. V Renault Fluence only for the main run.
After 1-5 hours of total work of the odometer winder, switching of the car type and sub-modes of operation is blocked. To unlock the device if you need to use the rewinder on another car, you need to contact the dealer. There is a charge for unlocking all winding devices.
Switching modes:
In order to set the desired operating mode, you need to connect the winding of the speedometer to the car or apply power (4-pin ground and 16-pin + 12V) and, while the indicator is on, press and hold the device button. While holding the button, wait until the indicator starts blinking with a pause of 1 second. The number of flashes corresponds to the mode number. When the indicator flashes the required number of times, you must release the device button. The odometer winder will reboot and display the operating mode number (vehicle type). The required operating mode is set according to the table.
Switching submode:
Switching the submode is carried out by briefly pressing the button (only when the ignition is switched on and the indicator is constantly on). Switching the submode will be confirmed by the indicator (off for 0.25 sec). In winding, up to 8 sub-modes are used, switching around the ring.
Tuning for Renault Fluence:
Connect the winder to the diagnostic socket in the center console (ignition off, doors closed). Check that the indicator shows 13 mode. Turn on the ignition (you cannot start the engine !!!) and control the increase in mileage using the main mileage counter. If the mileage does not increase or increases and returns to its place, switch to the next sub-mode. Check the rewinder function again. It is advisable to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery for 1 minute or drive 2-3 km between checks on each of the sub-modes after winding. A correctly tuned winding should confidently increase the vehicle's mileage, and further, during normal vehicle movement, a slight rollback of the mileage is possible.
Car mode correspondence table:
| 1. Ford / Mazda Focus - 2/3, Fusion, Fiesta, Transit, Tourneo, C-Max, Mondeo until 2007, Mazda - 2/3/6, CX-7, Scorpio | 17. Bmw 7 series E65-66-67, X5 E70, X6 E71, 3 series |
| 2. Ford Mondeo since 2007, S-Max, Galaxy | 18. Hyundai Santa Fe from 2010, Genesis, IX55 |
| 3. Ford Transit Bus, Scorpio | 19. Mitsubishi Outlander XL, Lancer X |
| 4. Ford Maveric 2006 | 20. Volvo since 2008 |
| 5. Toyota / Lexus Lexus Lx570, Ls460 c 2007, RX350 c 2007, High Lander c 2008, Avensis c 2009, Auris c 2006, Camry c 2007, Tundra, Corolla c 2006, Land cruiser 200, Prado from 2009, Rav4 from 2006, Verso | 21. Volvo from 2005-2007 |
| 6. Nissan / Infiniti FX-35/45, QX-56, G35, Pathfinder from 2007, X-Trail, Primera from 2005, Teana, Murano, Qashqai, Patrol from 2010, Navara | 22. Volvo spd=250 kbs until 2004 |
| 7. Audi A4, A6, A8, Q7, AllRoad | 23. Land rover Discovery 3 |
| 8. VW / Skoda Passat B6, B7, Golf V, Jetta, Caddy, Polo, T5, Touareg, Caravelle, Multivan, Octavia, Superb, Yeti | 24. Suzuki Vitara since 2007, Kizashi |
| 9. Mercedes Bodies 164, 204, 211, 220, 221, 251, Vito, Viano, Sprinter, ML, GL from 2005 | 25. Ford Focus since 2011 |
| 10. Honda Civic from 2008, CRV from 2008 | 26. Audi \ VW A6, A8, Touareg from 2011 |
| 11. Opel Zafira, Astra, Vectra, Antara | 27. Kia Sportage since 2011 |
| 12. Renault Scenic-2, Megan-2, Kangoo-2 | 28. Kia |
| 13. Renault Fluence *, Megane-3 | 29. Chevrolet Epica automatic transmission |
| 14. Ssang yong Rexton-2 since 2007 | 30. BMW 5 and 7-series from 2010 (F-bodies) |
| 15. Chevrolet / Opel Captiva, Cruze, Opel astra NEW, Saturn VUE | 31. Peugeot |
| 16. Hyundai Tuscon from 2010, Sonata from 2011, Solaris, IX30, IX35 | 32. Peugeot |
In cars Audi, VW, Skoda, Mercedes, Bmw, Mitsubishi and car Volvountil 2004 it is necessary to bring out two wires from the motor CAN bus into free contacts of the diagnostic socket. If necessary, contact a specialist.
Trouble-shooting:
1. The indicator on the device does not light up.
poor contact in the connector between the device and the vehicle.
malfunction of the supply circuit in the vehicle connector
device malfunction
the ignition in the car is not turned on
operating mode selected incorrectly
communication failure, poor contact, incorrectly connected CAN bus
faulty wiring in the vehicle CAN bus
device is faulty
the operating mode is incorrectly selected (car type)
car ignition is not turned on
device is connected to another CAN bus
4. After turning on the ignition, the indicator lights up constantly, and the mileage does not increase
the ignition is not turned on
the mode or submode of the device is not selected correctly
device is not suitable for this car mobile
Vehicle mileage is the main indicator technical condition... It can be used to judge whether the car needs urgent service or not. It plays an important role in the field of automotive sales in the aftermarket. Anyone who is interested in buying a used car first of all asks the seller how far they have covered. It is good if you come across a responsible seller who does not use speedometer rolls. But this does not happen so often.
The distance traveled, several hundred or thousands of kilometers long, can tell a lot about the car. Are its nodes intact, is there a need for replacement Supplies Or can we wait a while? The lower the mileage reading, the higher the price can be requested. Some owners do not go to any tricks in order to sell the car as profitable as possible for themselves. What is this ingenious invention and is it easy to make it yourself?
Forced reasons
There are a lot of people who want to make small adjustments to the mileage readings. This suggests that the phenomenon is quite widespread. Moreover, each owner will be able to find a worthy explanation for his deed. Basically, everything is attributed to a faulty speedometer or the need to replace the instrument panel.
But to be honest to the end, the main reason for winding up the speedometer is the desire, at least to some extent, to rejuvenate your car. And, as a rule, the necessary adjustments are made for the purpose of further sale. So-called pre-sale preparation... After all, it is much easier and more enjoyable to sell or buy a car with low mileage.
The winners are both sides: both the seller, who filled the price, and the buyer, who, as it seems, received relatively new car... Therefore, the topic of mileage boost is the most discussed among a large number of former and future vehicle owners.
In addition to those who want to reduce the mileage, there are those who, on the contrary, try to increase it. These are mainly drivers of commercial vehicles or vehicles used for the service. There is also a justification for this, and on the one hand it is quite justified.
The fuel consumption rates that the accounting department of almost any company takes into account cannot cover the real costs of gasoline or diesel fuel... And winding up the speedometer allows you to solve the problem to some extent, since the amount of the compensation that is required when using personal vehicle, is mainly able to cover only fuel costs. Only depreciation and wear and tear on the car are not taken into account. In this connection, many drivers take such a forced measure.
Speedometer and Odometer
Everyone knows very well what a speedometer is. This is a device that shows the speed of the car at any given time. But there is also such a thing as an odometer. Someone has already heard this term and knows what it is about, but not everyone is able to understand what kind of device it is. Meanwhile, it serves to measure the distance traveled by the car.
In fact, a speedometer is a combined device that combines a speed meter and a mileage meter from the date of production. In some cars, in addition to the odometer, there is one more device - a daily mileage counter. To reset it, a special button is provided (something like winding up the speedometer).
Since the odometer is mounted directly into the speedometer, many drivers often refer to the two devices by a common word - speedometer. Which is not entirely true, because the function of the speedometer is to measure the speed of the car, and the odometer measures the distance traveled.
Varieties and principle of operation of speedometers
In cars you can find different type distance and speed meters, but, as a rule, there are two main types:
- mechanical (analog);
- electronic (digital);
- electromechanical (combined).
Mechanical speedometers are also divided into several types and can be:
- centrifugal;
- chronometric;
- vibrating.
Electromechanical devices are divided into electromagnetic and induction. This is important to know, since the use of one or another scheme of winding the speedometer with your own hands depends on it. The readings, regardless of the type of device, are displayed in km / h, and in the USA - mph (miles per hour). How exactly is speed measured?
There are innovative speedometers that can determine the speed of a vehicle using a satellite positioning system (GPS, GLONASS). However, such systems are not installed in factories and are rather additional option, which significantly increases the comfort for drivers.
Mechanical speedometer
The principle of operation of the device in cars with rear wheel drive: the speedometer calculates the speed readings from the secondary shaft of the gearbox. In this case, the accuracy of the readings is affected by the size of the tires, the gear ratio of the rear axle gearbox and the inherent error of the device.
To measure the speed y front wheel drive vehicles the speedometer is supported by the left wheel drive. Here, in addition to the instrument error and tire size, the readings are influenced by the so-called rounding effect. That is, when entering a left turn, the speed will be less than the straight-line movement. If the car turns to the right, then the speed, on the contrary, will be slightly increased. The scheme of winding the speedometer with your own hands of a mechanical type is not so complicated, which will be clear later.
Electronic speedometer
Almost every modern car is equipped with an electronic speedometer. Perhaps, after a certain time, it will completely replace the mechanical counterparts, but so far they are still present even in new models. The principle of operation of an electronic device is simpler than that of a mechanical speedometer.
Often, an electronic device has a magnet in its device, which is attached to the output shaft of the gearbox. The magnet rotates with the shaft, and is located nearby the electronic unit... At the same time, rotating in a circle on the gearbox shaft, the magnet periodically passes in close proximity to the electronics, transmitting a signal to it and thereby performing the function of a sensor.
And every time the magnet sweeps past the block, it sends a pulse to the speedometer. Inside the meter there is a so-called (characterized by increased ingenuity), which calculates the speed for these impulses. To make a winding of the speedometer, this knowledge will not hurt.
There is nothing easier to understand: the faster the pulse transmission frequency, the faster the box shaft rotates. All calculations are performed with maximum accuracy and have almost zero error.
Inaccuracies
It happens that metering devices record the wrong vehicle speed. On the one hand, it is even good when the speedometer shows slightly increased readings. In this case, the driver will comply speed mode and will not receive a fine. And manufacturers are calm, and drivers do not violate traffic rules.
It's another matter if the device, on the contrary, underestimates the real speed. Then many companies would simply go broke on numerous lawsuits from drivers, which indicated that the cause of fines or accidents was the wrong speedometer readings.
Why do errors happen? The fact is that this device does not differ in increased accuracy, since the rotation of a car wheel is mainly used to determine the speed. In this case, its diameter is taken into account, and this parameter is not stable. This is important to know when deciding how to rewind an electronic or mechanical speedometer.
Speedometers on many modern cars have an average error of 10% at a speed of 200 km / h. But the dependence is non-linear. That is, at a speed of 110 km / h, the difference with the real one can be 5-10 km / h. But if you go slower (up to 60 km / h), then the error is so small that it is impossible to feel it.
Calculating costs
For many, the price of the issue is a fundamental factor in almost everything: purchases, services, and so on. In this connection, it is reasonable to ask yourself the question, what will it cost to adjust the speedometer, which is so necessary in some cases. Here, as in the course of any work in auto repair shops, it all depends on the complexity of its implementation and the volume.
It is not so difficult to tinker with mechanical speedometers, all you need is to rotate the mechanism drive in a certain direction. There would be time, and there will always be a desire. However, with electronic metering devices, everything is much more complicated than it might seem. Needed here basic knowledge for car electrical equipment. And in some cases, you cannot do without the knowledge and skills of a programmer.
Currently, in many stores that have their own website, you can purchase a speedometer roll with an adjustable winding speed. Available for sale different variants, and any car owner will get what they want.
The first electronic speed meters recorded the mileage readings on an internal memory, which made it relatively easy to adjust the values. In many modern cars, the necessary information is duplicated among the electronic units of different systems (ECU, brake, lighting, immobilizer, etc.). This data is well encrypted.
To carry out the procedure correctly, you need to edit the data wherever it is. This significantly complicates the matter, moreover, it is necessary not to touch on important indicators of other systems. If you turn to a non-professional, then you should prepare for the purchase of any new part, perhaps more than one. In addition, the work itself will not be cheap.
As for the cost of a competent adjustment, prices vary significantly and depend not only on the car brand, but also on the year of production. For example, for a car UAZ Patriot the price can start from 1500 rubles. Owners of a new Car Land Rover will have to fork out 15,000 rubles. There are companies in which the price for such work can reach 25,000 rubles. It may be worth purchasing a speedometer winding circuit with an adjustable winding speed and do it yourself.
Twisting mechanical speedometer
If there is no extra money or desire to entrust your car to unauthorized persons, you can do everything yourself. True, it is not difficult to tinker with mechanical devices, as it was written above, there would be time. To do this, it is worth disconnecting the device cable from the box and fixing it on the shaft of some motor. A drill will work too, which will be even better.
Having chosen the direction, start twisting. This will take a lot of time due to the high gear ratio of the gearbox. You can use another way - to dismantle the odometer, then using a special tool and brute force, set the required readings.
Electronic device rewinding
To correct the readings of electronic devices, you must use special equipment and computer programs. You need to know exactly where to look for the data, which is difficult. But often all information is collected in one place.
The winding of the electronic speedometer is carried out by reprogramming the current data of the vehicle blocks. In this case, you can use one of several connection methods:
- directly to the data schema;
- through the connector in dashboard;
- via the diagnostic connector.
Coiling an electronic speedometer is a complex procedure bordering on certain risks. Despite this, it is often used, because you can significantly raise the cost of a car, which only plays into the hands of sellers.
Is it possible to detect twisting of the speedometer?
It all depends on the type of device. If it is electromechanical or mechanical device, then it is enough to look under the car and inspect the gearbox drive. In the presence of dirt and unusual traces, it can be concluded that the speedometer readings have been corrected. If the drive is clean, then with a high probability everything is normal. It is already a proven fact - 50% of the total number of vehicles on the secondary market have incorrect mileage readings.
If the car electronic speedometer, then it is more difficult to identify outside interference. But it is also not easy to connect the winding of the speedometer in this case (at least some consolation). An experienced craftsman and special equipment are simply indispensable. Often, in auto repair shops, tags with accurate mileage data are attached to the car. This is done when conducting Maintenance or after replacing parts fuel system... It is worth comparing the data from the tags and the speedometer readings. If they coincide, then there is nothing to worry about, otherwise there is a possibility of deception.
"No matter how much you steal from the state, you still can't get yours back!"
With the development of injection systems on domestic cars, there has been a steady demand for devices that "wind" electronic odometers. Why is this necessary, you ask? The answer is obvious: for drivers of state (official) cars, this is a way to write off gasoline. And he, as you know, now has become not cheap ... Previously, when there were only mechanical odometers, this problem was solved by different, also mechanical methods. Then the first electronic odometers appeared, and "advanced electricians" of various motor depots found a simple and effective way to wind odometers, stretching a wire from the additional terminal of the generator to the dashboard. But the electronics did not stand still, and when, once having connected the magic wiring in the above-described way, the electrician discovered that the car would not start, there was nothing left to do but send the suffering driver to look for other ways to solve the problem.
It all started with ordinary Gazelles and Sables with 405 engines, which are enough in our city-forming enterprise. It was they who began to stall when using the above method.
The fight technique is very simple and effective. PAC "Combiloader" is connected to the ECU of the experimental vehicle and the serial engine control program is read. Further, it opens in the CTPro program and the flag of the speed sensor is removed from the configuration. And with such a small change, the already modified engine control program is written into the ECU. In principle, after that you can call "an advanced electrician from the motor depot" who will throw the magic wiring from the generator and the process, as they say, will go ... But this is not our method.
The simplest generator of three parts is manufactured using the volumetric installation method (see diagram below).
The S1 toggle switch switches the signal going to the panel either from our generator or from a standard speed sensor. The generator is powered from the plus of the ignition lock. Thus, the main advantage of such a solution is that you can wind up the run without starting the car (it is enough to turn on the ignition), as well as right on the move of the car "moving at a speed of 200 km / h" to the envy of colleagues in the car fleet.
A few notes on the circuit. Of course, the fastidious electronics engineer will definitely recommend putting another resistor in series with the trimmer, so that in the extreme left position of its engine, the generation is not interrupted. And also a protective diode against polarity reversal of the circuit is required. But you and I do not need this, we are neat, attentive and unhurried. With the resistor and capacitor ratings indicated in the diagram, the circuit generates rectangular pulses with an amplitude of 12 volts in the frequency range from ≈ 180 Hz to ≈ 1.5 kHz, which so far has covered the needs for using this device on different cars.
If it is necessary to quickly change the range of generated frequencies, the capacitor must be replaced. When it decreases, the frequency increases and vice versa.
Another generator schematic provided for Yvm's post.
Below is a table that describes cars with our personally modified odometers.
| car model | Year | Brief description of the installation |
| Gazelle | since 2002 | Connector X3 of the instrument cluster: 11 contact green wire - DC signal. Yellow wire - + ignition. Black wire ground. |
| Kia magentis Hyindai sonata |
2004 | There is a speed sensor, a usual three-wire, a large connector of the instrument cluster, a view from the side of contacts, a brown wire. |
| The instrument cluster has three connectors: yellow large; white large; white small. In the white large connector, the arrow in the figure the DC wire is indicated, view from the side of the contacts, the wire is gray with a brown stripe. |
||
|
Forg Tourneo Connect |
There is a speed sensor, a usual three-wire one, but its signal goes to the ECU, and from the ECU via the digital bus it is transmitted to the control panel. Therefore, I had to tear the white wiring with a blue stripe on pin 3 of the ECU. |
|
| VOLVO S70 | 1997 |
There is no speed sensor, the signal for the tidy comes from the ABS, it is a 6-volt sine. Therefore, our device was powered from the simplest stabilizer with an output voltage of 6 Volts, such as KR142EN5B (or any low-power imported analogue) and at the output it already had 6-volt rectangular pulses, which were calmly "digested" by the device. On the panel, connector A is top-right. Contact 3 - blue wire - speed input signal 15 contact - brown wire - ground 18 contact - blue with red stripe - + ignition. |
| Toyota Camry | 2003 | Large instrument cluster connector, 35 pin - wire with ABS and speed information. If you look closely, there is a numbering right on the wires. (Many thanks to Coldun for their help) |
| KAMAZ |
||
| MAZ |
Attention! + 5V (middle top pin) comes out of the device! Protect from short circuits when energized. Sweeps up to 5 kHz. |
|
| UAZ Patriot | ||
| UAZ Hunter |
Sweeps up to 1 kHz |
|
| Renault Logan" | 2005 |
7 - black, weight |
| Mitsubishi - Panjero diesel | 2005 |
There are three connectors on the panel - one black (the first to the left of the driver's door) and two white. On the black connector, the rightmost wire (yellow-white with silver rings) is DC. Any device for reeling at the outlet with an open collector (for example, a device for checking the DC circuit, given in the article by Oleg Bratkov). Naturally, you still need a switch. |
| RenaultKANGOO | There are two connectors behind the dashboard - gray (two rows) and red (single row), pay attention to red: 15 contacts, 6 are involved: 2 - lilac Pinout from left to right; from the center of the panel (gray connector) to the edge. We are interested in the 13th - brown (2), he is responsible for the speedometer readings and the odometer count. Filed a rectangle ~ 500 hertz, duty cycle 50%, classic scheme generator for 561 series, turns for 200. |
|
| Mazda Tribute (aka Ford Maverick, Escape), American. | Connected directly to the DS. DS two-wire, stands on the automatic transmission closer to the engine shield. An ordinary generator on 561le5, only a capacitor (0.1 μF, ceramics) must be placed in the gap of the speed signal output, apparently there a sine wave signal is required. Calmly shakes at a speed of 250 km / h, then there is a breakdown. The check does not light up. | |
|
HYUNDAI Santa Fe |
2007 |
In conclusion, let us designate an approximate algorithm for finding one single, required wiring through which information about the mileage is received on the instrument panel odometer.
1. Inspection of the gearbox, drives, rear axles in order to detect the speed sensor.
2. If a speed sensor (or something similar to it) is found, then you need to make sure that this is it. Remove the connector from it and take a short test drive. The speedometer or odometer should stop working.
3. If the detected speed sensor is three-wire, then it is necessary to measure the voltage at its connector and determine the signal wire. Next, call this signal wire to the dashboard to connect the winder in the passenger compartment. If the sensor is two-wire, then it is necessary to determine the waveform that comes to the panel. This can be done by hanging the drive wheels and making them spin, monitor the signals coming to the panel with an oscilloscope.
4. If in step 1 the speed sensor is not found, then it is very possible that the panel receives the speed signal from the ABS. Then, using the method described in paragraph 3, it is necessary to search for this signal with an oscilloscope, on the connectors of the instrument panel.
Of course, if you have detailed information materials on the car model that you are going to undergo such "tuning", then the task is greatly simplified. But in any case, do not forget that you are acting at your own peril and risk, and therefore double-check yourself three times before thoughtlessly "tying something to something." I would also like to note that this brief review highlights the general principles of solving this problem, and the specific implementation on a particular car can differ greatly in the direction of complication. If you have information on connecting to other types of cars, please send us, we will be happy to fill up the table of "applicability"
Some notes on the creation of winders for Ford Mondeo & Ford Focus, 2006 model years, Toyota Camry
These vehicles use signals from the ABS sensors as a speed signal. On these models, these sensors are current, which means when the wheel rotates, the current in the circuit changes. The changes are approximately 7/14 mA, that is, if you connect the oscilloscope in parallel to the sensor before, while rotating the wheel, we should see a square wave with a swing of about 0.5 Volts against a background of 12 Volts. The diagram below simulates the full operation of such a sensor.
The positive wire can be determined by removing the connector from the sensor and measuring the voltage on the wiring with a tester with the ignition on. We used a full manual rewiring, that is, in order to wind up, the client opens the hood, removes the plugs from the connectors, and puts the winder in place of the plugs. Turns on the ignition, produces the necessary winding. After the end, he takes out the rewinder from the connectors and plugs the plugs into the connectors, which restore the factory connection of the ABS control unit with the sensors. Of course, it was possible to switch all this to a relay, but a lot of extra wires appeared under the hood, and camouflage was put at the forefront. It is imperative to use two wheels, as with one the speed does not rise above 30 km / h.
Now consider the TOYOTA CAMRY, model year 2006. The panel for this car is called Optitron, and has neon lights... 3.5 liter machine on the machine. The speed signal is also taken from the ABS sensors, but is a sine wave with an amplitude of about 1 Volt and a frequency that is directly proportional to the rotational speed. That is, the ABS sensor is of an inductive type. In this case, the scheme below was applied. The transistor is used for any type of KT3102. A resistive divider reduces the amplitude of the output signal, and a capacitor with a capacity of 0.1 μF to 0.47 μF removes the DC component of the signal. As a result, a clumsy signal was formed at the output, of course, but the ABS control unit swallowed it perfectly and the desired result was obtained. It should also be noted that this signal must be applied to the two front wheels. However, in this case, complex connections were not required, and the necessary signal wires were tied directly to the standard wiring.
In conclusion, I would like to remind you that ABS is one of the important systems affecting safety, and if you have already decided to intervene in it, you must clearly understand the consequences and, in accordance with this, perform the work at the proper quality level.
A small addition to the "KAMAZ" odometers. This device can be easily configured for "incorrect" readings using
If you buy a used car, then, as a rule, in most cases, the readings of the total mileage of the car are reeled off. To the question, "what is such a small mileage?" the answer always consisting of the tags "girl, summer exploitation, grandmother, grandfather, stood, before the dacha, work 5 minutes", etc.
Naturally, I will not describe the winding process, but I will show the consequences and traces.
In fact, winding up the electronic odometer is very easy and quick. The tidy controller chip is responsible for the readings of the mileage digits, which receives information from the vehicle speed sensor, analyzes it and calculates the distance traveled. This information is stored in a separate non-volatile memory chip. The microcircuit of this memory is not protected in any way, its information can be read and changed, you can make your own corrections.
A concrete example, my tidy, top view of a printed circuit board:
It shows a small octopus memory chip, the same one used in many cars by many automakers. The memory capacity of this chip is scanty in terms of computer size, 1 kilobyte, but this is quite enough to store all the necessary data of the device. This microcircuit is soldered, connected to a computer and readings are wound. There are options without soldering this microcircuit, just connect the wiring from above to it.
And here are the traces of soldering, in order to reach them, you need to disassemble the entire tidy and climb to the other side of the printed circuit board:
You can see the memory legs sticking out of the board. But if you look closely at them, you can see traces of handicraft soldering:
So I never look at the odometer when buying a car in the secondary market, it is still reeled up.
You can check whether the mileage has been rolled up or not by establishing traces of the tidy opening. Traces on screws, regular clips, traces of opening in the form of notches, fingerprints on a layer of dust, indicate that we climbed inside. They climb in two cases: rewind or fix-overexpose.
In my car it is the only way winding. But there are, of course, many other cars, especially modern ones, where there is a struggle between development engineers and hackers - reamers. The former develop complex odometer memory schemes (multiple storage locations, access complexity, hacking analysis algorithms), the latter look for clues and approaches to bypass these obstacles.
All discussions are about winding: where, by what and how they will be deleted.
Sometimes, when operating a car, it becomes necessary to correct the speedometer readings upward, in simple terms, "wind the readings". In order to do this, a large number of various devices at a variety of prices, and for those who are friends with a soldering iron on the Internet there are many schemes that are offered to be soldered by yourself.
For a ready-made "winder" they often ask for several thousand rubles, and in order to solder it yourself, you still need to purchase radio components and spend some time assembling the device. Don't you want to waste money or time? And it is not necessary! According to numerous requests from drivers, a special revolutionary way of winding the speedometer using a regular fan from a computer was developed in the workshop of an itinerant locksmith.
We need a computer fan "cooler" to which 3 wires fit. Absolutely any fan with a 3-wire connection, from a power supply, from a processor, from a video card - from anything, is suitable. Such a fan has a Hall effect tachometer inside, exactly the same as in car speed sensors.
We take such a fan, remove the connector from the speed sensor and connect the fan according to the diagram. The speed sensor in the car is located on the gearbox, and in 4x4 jeeps - on the transfer case. We remove the connector and connect the fan instead of the speed sensor, turn on the ignition and go! The fan should start spinning, and the speedometer should wind kilometers. The purpose of the terminals of the speed sensors of most cars is shown in the diagram, do not forget that the "mothers" of the connectors are mirrored, to ensure the correct connection, check the "plus" and "earth" contacts with a tester, with the ignition on, they should be + 12 volts.
Is everything sealed and the connector cannot be removed? It doesn't matter, we thought about that too! Extend the supply wires from the fan so that they are enough to reach the battery and connect the fan directly to the battery. Wind a needle onto the signal wire of the fan and, in an inconspicuous place, carefully pierce the insulation of the signal wire from the speed sensor, connect the fan signal in parallel. But with this method of winding, you have to tinker a little. The fact is that the outputs of the sensors are made according to the "open collector" scheme, and if the magnets in the standard sensor are in the position when the output key of the speed sensor is open, then the winder will not be able to work. What to do? It is necessary to catch the moment when the key of the standard speed sensor closes, and even then start the coiler. How to do it? The surest option is to jack up the rear wheel and turn it smoothly to catch the moment when the winder starts to work, but you can try and push the car a little bit, although this can be difficult. Do not forget that in any case, the ignition must be turned on in order to start the speedometer itself.
Please note that different fans have different rotational speeds, the fan speed is written on the sticker, naturally, the faster the fan, the faster you can wind up the required readings, but meanwhile, in some speedometers, protection from too impatient, and at too high a winding speed began to occur the speedometer stops reading. What to do in this case? Just find a slower fan.
Where can I get the right fan? Yes, anywhere, pick it out of a faulty computer, ask a friend, find it in a trash heap, buy it in a store. There are coolers in any computer store, the price for them starts from 100 rubles, and finding a fan is much easier and cheaper than buying or soldering a "winder".
And this ... Don't steal a lot, okay? :)
Why odometer manipulation is popular in Russia
According to the statistics of "Avtostat", a car, whose age is approaching 10 years, "winds" 18,000 kilometers of annual mileage. And, of course, anyone who wants to buy a car that is not the first freshness hopes to find the least "driven" option. Sellers in such cases go to the buyers "halfway".
Psychology
On the market and on various sites, you can often find advertisements for the sale of cars for 5-7 years with a mileage of 30 to 70 thousand kilometers. Somehow this does not coincide with the data of "Autostat". The discrepancy is explained simply - in more than half of the used cars, the mileage is simply adjusted to psychologically comfortable marks. In other words, just twisted.
By the way, if not half of the car owners, then a good third for some reason believe that the "thing" where the mileage numbers are shown is called a speedometer. Like, he alone is responsible for speed and mileage. In fact, the odometer is responsible for the mileage. Let's talk about him.
How does it work?
Initially, cars were equipped with a classic mechanical odometer. He held out on foreign cars until the end of the last century. In the domestic auto industry - a little longer.
The mechanical odometer is a standard digital counter with a gearbox that has a large gear ratio... In order for one of the numbers to give way to the other, the input shaft must "scroll" about two thousand times.
This "old school" odometer is connected to the gearbox output shaft with a special cable. As the gears turn, the mileage increases gradually.
In the modern "smart" odometer, this "primitiveness" is no longer there. Directly on the output shaft or wheel (depending on the car) there is a sensor that takes into account the revolutions. There are two types of it: optical or magnetic. The sensor sends the received data to the electronic control unit. And he, in turn, displays them on the dashboard display.
By the way, it happens that information about the distance traveled is duplicated in different control units. And sometimes even in the ignition key.
On the "fancy" "Bavarians" or Land Rovers, which are traditionally considered the most "stubborn" cars in terms of rolling mileage, there can be about ten such data storages.
How does the mileage curl?
It is clear that we will not describe this procedure in detail. Let's just briefly explain how this happens.
Mechanical odometer
To correct the kilometers traveled on it, two methods are used. In the first case, it is necessary to connect some kind of electric motor or, for example, a drill to the input shaft of the counter. With their help, the odometer can be turned in the opposite direction.
The problem with this method is that it takes a lot of time to “wind up”. Craftsmen sometimes have to sit for hours with a drill in their hands and persistently "hum" in order to see the cherished numbers.
The second option is that you just need to "rip" the odometer, and then put it back together, setting the required mileage.
Electronic odometer
It is adjusted using electronic devices. When it comes to simple, cheap cars, just unscrew the dashboard cover. Then the odometer is connected to a computer, where a special program will allow you to set the desired mileage. After the manipulations, the lid is screwed back - and the trick is in the bag. Only screws scratched with a screwdriver can report a "crime".
If the car has backup "storages", adjusting the mileage will not be much more complicated. It is enough to connect to the on-board computer and delete information from reserves. If necessary, the ignition key can be "cleaned" by "flashing".
By the way, if the "master" overlooked - did not delete information from all blocks - then after a while old data may appear on the odometer. This will be a surprise.
Well, for "fancy" cars there is another method - a more radical one. A special microcircuit is "implanted" into the block, with the help of which you can set any numbers you like.
Now there is not a single car that cannot be adjusted for mileage. It doesn't matter if it's Logan or Hammer. And all the fact that automakers do not bother about the protection of mileage information. In fact, this does not concern them. After all, who is interested in the problems of secondary buyers ?!
Issue price
Such odometer manipulations are inexpensive. If you set a goal, in the "garages" you can find specialists who will deal with a mechanical device quickly and for a maximum of a thousand rubles.
Correction of the simplest electronic odometer will cost 1,500-2,000 rubles. Well, then it is clear. The more complex the mechanism and protection, the higher the price.
How to determine if the mileage is twisted?
In fact, it is rather difficult to find out. If the adjustment was carried out by specialists, and not by the garage "Uncle Vasya", most likely it will not be possible to find "traces of the crime".
Only indirect "evidence" can help - pedal pads worn out too much for the declared mileage, worn upholstery of the steering wheel or seats. But we must not forget (especially when it comes to a budget car) that covers and linings themselves are cheap and of low quality. Therefore, they can quickly lose their presentation.
Outcome
By and large, the mileage itself is not a 100% indicator of the wear and tear of a "steel horse". For example, in Germany or France, car owners calmly wind under 200 thousand kilometers - and do not know grief. True, they do not forget to call in at the service station in a timely manner for preventive maintenance or minor repairs. Therefore, European cars, even with solid odometer readings, are of quite decent quality.
On the other hand, it is clear that an indifferent, sloppy and stingy driver can easily drive a car to the "Zugunder" even for several tens of thousands of kilometers. Therefore, you need to pay special attention to the general condition of the car, and not just to the odometer.
The mileage of a car reflects the real state of affairs, and the greater the mileage from zero, the sooner the repairs will come, and repairs are costs, sometimes quite large. Therefore, this is an important indicator that directly affects the cost of the car sold. Agree that the displayed numbers of the speedometer (odometer) of miles and kilometers traveled rarely reflect the actual state of affairs.
For some reason, it is not customary in Russia to show real kilometers. Probably, this mentality makes the mileage lead, to put it mildly, not very honest indicators. And this, oddly enough, has an explanation.
In the distant fabulous times, when there was still a country of the USSR, as well as post-perestroika devastation, and our car industry, produced the last word in Zhiguli technology, and like Volga and Moskvich, the quality of these cars left much to be desired. It was probably easier to fly somewhere into space than to get the necessary spare parts for the repair of this equipment, including parts for the engine repair.
And, as you know, for motorists with experience, after a run of 100-120 thousand kilometers, this miracle, called a car, required serious engine repair. Replacing the clutch, not talking about the chassis, as well as the fallen compression and the puffing engine, asking for "capital".
Yes, you can't sell such a car with such mileage ...
Here, a "clever thought" comes into a puzzled head, twist speedometer… And now, on the instrument panel, the required mileage! This is probably the answer - why the mileage is rolled in Russia.
Sell a used car that doesn't make the buyer think that it's time for repairs soon.
But simple mechanical speedometers have become less and less installed by manufacturers on their cars, even in the domestic auto industry. They were replaced by more sophisticated electronic devices, which cannot be called a simple word "odometer". It has become more and more difficult to twist the runs and, accordingly, more expensive!
But will an inquisitive Russian specialist stop this?
Modern speedometers can be classified according to the following parameters:
- Mechanical (well, everything is clear here, the numbers on the speedometer spin by means of a mechanical drive - with a cable).
- Electromechanical (the drive is carried out by an electric motor and an electronic circuit).
- Electronic (data from sensors are received in digital form).
Correcting the mileage of a car in the right direction sometimes requires not only the knowledge of an electronics engineer, but already a programmer.
Now, the kilometers traveled is recorded in the electronic memory of the speedometer, and can also be duplicated in various brains and vehicle modules. Somehow: in the ignition key, ignition lock, immobilizer, automatic transmission and in the control unit (brains).
And these blocks, in turn, can be linked to a specific car through the VIN number.
In connection with the above, it is already possible to roughly decide on the methods of twisting (correction) of the speedometer, or how it will be more correct - the odometer for a given brand and model of a car and how much it may cost.
The easiest way, this is of course mechanical, is applicable on old models of the domestic auto industry and some foreign cars, and usually does not cause problems, and also does not require special knowledge.
Further, the help of a programmer is already required, this is the case when you need to reprogram the memory chip on the electromechanical speedometer. This chip contains all the data on the total and daily kilometers of the given vehicle. This is done something like this: by directly connecting the programmer and, preferably, the programmer to the microcircuit.
You can connect and correct the mileage on the electronic speedometer through the connector on the instrument cluster or directly through the vehicle diagnostic connector.
Connecting a computer through the diagnostic block is the most convenient way(no dismantling of the instrument cluster is required), but on the other hand, there must be a special program on the computer, which is available only to official dealers and service stations of this brand.
But as far as we all know, this is not a big problem in Russia.
But, the presence of several brain blocks with a prescribed mileage of a given car makes the flashing of many memory chips practically impractical and economically unprofitable.
Output: Twisting the speedometer of a modern brand new car is expensive. The cost of such a brain correction can be comparable to the discount on the total price of the car when it is sold.
Speedometer readings are often one of the criteria by which the quality and timing of vehicle maintenance is assessed. More precisely, this refers to the odometer, which is part of device that measures the distance traveled. In order not to violate the generally accepted name of the device, it will continue to be called that way. Often, for a number of reasons, sometimes subjective, it is necessary to rewind the speedometer, changing the path traveled by the car.
About the types of speedometers
Before figuring out how you can change the readings of such a device with your own hands, you need to consider its possible options. There are several fundamentally different types of speedometers:
- mechanical;
- electromechanical;
- electronic.
Mechanical speedometer
The gearbox speed is transmitted by a cable directly to the device. There the number of revolutions is measured and converted to the distance traveled. For this, a gearbox with a pre-selected conversion factor is used. How this is done will help to understand the photo.
In fact, it turns out that one revolution at the output of the gearbox corresponds to a certain number of meters of distance traveled. This rotation of the output shaft is perceived by special discs (indicating device) with printed numbers indicating the measured distance.
Electromechanical speedometer
This type of device is a further development of the previously described device. In many cases, the cable was a source of increased error and was replaced. A speed sensor installed at the checkpoint was introduced into the device. Impulses from it were fed to a motor with appropriate control, which rotates the gearbox. Otherwise, the operation of such a speedometer was no different from a mechanical one, resembling it in appearance.
Electronic speedometer
A similar type is installed on modern cars. In this case, the number of revolutions of the wheel is measured. Knowing the length of its circumference, it is easy to translate the number of revolutions into the distance traveled. The result is displayed on the LCD. 
Why change the speedometer readings?
As already noted, drivers sometimes need to change the speedometer readings. In this case, the mileage is made both less and more. And if in the first case everything is clear - a decrease in the distance traveled when selling a car increases its price, then about the second it is necessary to make several explanations.
The winding up of the speedometer is possible for several reasons, for example:
- To increase the cost of fuels and lubricants. More mileage allows you to write off more fuel. And this is not necessarily related to fraud and postscripts. The fact is that in an old, worn-out car, fuel consumption sometimes exceeds the established norms. So you have to compensate for the increased costs in this way.
- When replacing the engine or instrument panel. In this case, it is necessary to bring the speedometer readings in accordance with the new conditions.
- When using discs other than those recommended by the manufacturer. Their diameter can be either larger or smaller than that determined for a standard wheel, respectively, when calculating the distance traveled, a constant error will occur. Here is the winding of the speedometer and allows you to eliminate it, including the one done by yourself.
How is the speedometer rolled up?
This is a rather complex and controversial issue. It all depends on the type of speedometer (for each, its own method can be used), as well as on the date of manufacture of the car. Below we will consider some possible approaches to accomplish this task.
How to rewind a mechanical speedometer?
Similar devices are on old cars, for example, the VAZ or UAZ family of early years of production. In this case, you can act in several ways. The simplest thing is to disconnect the cable from the speed sensor, connect a drill to it, and put it into reverse mode, change the readings. Another approach is to disassemble the dashboard, remove the meter, and using the right tools, change his readings.
This work can be done by hand. However, this is available only on machines of old years of release (up to 2005), and it does not have of particular importance its brand is VAZ, KAMAZ, UAZ, MAZ or Gazelle. The type of speedometer will be decisive.
How to correct an electromechanical speedometer
Despite the fact that such types of devices remained only on old machines, working with them is much more difficult than with purely mechanical ones. Here, as in other situations considered below, it is necessary to separate two tasks:
- winding the speedometer ̶ increasing its readings;
- twisting the speedometer ̶ decreasing the readings of the device.
In principle, both of them can be done by hand, only the approach in each of the cases under consideration should be different. Decrease of readings is possible only when disassembling the panel, removing the counter and manually rearranging its values. But the problem - how to wind up a speedometer of this type, is solved by using a generator. It generates pulses entering the control input, and the readings of the device change according to their number. As in the previous case, this also does not depend on the brand of the car - VAZ, KAMAZ, UAZ, MAZ or Gazelle.
How to rewind an electronic speedometer
Such devices are installed on modern cars and are often an integral part of others electronic systems on board. Specific methods of adjusting the speedometer readings are determined primarily by the time of manufacture of the car. The fact is that an electronic speedometer can be implemented in different ways and interact with several independent devices.
Therefore, to change its readings, it may be necessary not only to supply additional pulses from the speed sensors, but also to reprogram some units. And besides, again, depending on the characteristics of the car, for different models of UAZ, VAZ, Gazelle, etc., as well as the year of manufacture, the method of access to the speedometer will be determined.
Therefore, it is rather difficult to do such work with your own hands, although no one says that this is impossible. But this only requires the use of special electronic devices.
What devices are used to rewind electronic speedometers?
Considering the available variety of cars and methods of processing data from the speedometer, several different options have been created that allow you to correct the readings of the distance traveled. The circuit of such a device can be performed both on discrete elements and on microprocessor systems, but all finished products are divided into the following types:
CAN spinner
This device is designed for use on modern machines. Here you need to know that CAN - special tire, through which data is exchanged between the vehicle's electronics units. And its scheme implies the presence of a diagnostic connector through which, knowing the exchange protocol, you can access individual devices. 
Accordingly, thanks to this, you can adjust the content of the desired memory cells, achieving the desired result. It is impossible to detect by the diagnostic equipment that there was a change in memory cells.
You can buy a high-quality spinner on the website https://can-podmotka.ru
Pulse twist to OBDII
This device is intended for use with non-CAN vehicles. This device is connected via a special OBDII diagnostic connector. In this case, the speedometer receives a sequence of pulses that simulate signals from the speed sensor, as a result of which the readings of the distance traveled change.
Speed generator
This circuit simulates a speed sensor. Instead, the generator turns on and produces a sequence of pulses that enter the speedometer and cause a change in its readings. More suitable for electromechanical devices and domestic cars- VAZ, UAZ and others manufactured before 2006.
Suitable for cars equipped with ABS. Its work is based on controlling the speed and rotation of the wheel. A spinner connected to the corresponding connector simulates the operation of the wheels, and the controller, receiving this information, begins to change the speedometer readings.
Additionally, it is worth noting that the decisive factor when choosing a device for winding up the speedometer is the car model and the date of its release. In some cases, changes in the speedometer readings on a VAZ or UAZ will take place in a completely different way than on a KAMAZ or MAZ.
You can make a winding device yourself or buy a ready-made one, but the most important thing is to determine whether it can be used on a given machine. If misused, you can simply burn the electronics.
It may seem strange, but sometimes it is not the twisting of the speedometer that becomes more relevant, but, on the contrary, its reeling. There are a number of reasons, both objective and subjective, forcing you to do this. More than one device has been created that allows you to solve the problem, and you can choose a device that takes into account the release date of a particular car and allows you to carry out this procedure without consequences.
