No one should explain that the tractor for rural households - The car is not only necessary, but also necessary. As before the peasant economy could not do without a horse, so now it can not do without a tractor. Only now to purchase such technique to whom it is most needed, that is, a simple rural worker - as they say, not on the pocket.
But if the owner is a man of workshop, as the author of the Liberate article, Mikhail Simonov from the village of Sadenki Balakovo district of the Saratov region, then he can make the tractor and himself. Literally from scrap metal, Mikhail gathered such a tractor, which is little in what is inferior to such industrial manufacturing machines, and not only technical characteristicsBut even in appearance.
Description made by M. Simon tractor, we begin with the frame design. The frame is quite simple - symmetrical, almost rectangular and not even spatial. But all the aggregates and chassis nodes: the engine, transmission, wheel suspension - located on it although tightly, but rationally.
Rama welded. The main power elements are pairs of spars (right and left) and traverse (front and rear). The spars are made composite, three-speed. The two front stages of the spars are made of channel number 10, and the latter is 80 × 80 mm from the square tube. The front traverse is made of Schawler No. 12, and the rear - from Schawler No. 16. From Schawler No. 12, another frame element was made - cross. The pair of inspection brackets is made of channel number 8, but each of them is welded from two segments in such a way that the shelves of their parts are directed in different directions. For the floor of the cabin, which goes beyond the frame, the frames of the rectangular section of 60 × 40 mm are welded. Frames are welded console to medium stages of the spars from their outer side in a place where they are joined with the rear steps. Such an emission in the metal sorting is not so much constructive necessity as the material available in stock.
On the frame collected tractor chassis: installed force aggregate, transmission, front and rear axlewheels.
Silence unit - 4-cylinder diesel engine Water cooling with a capacity of about 40 hp He is taken from the writer of the Bulgarian car driver (loader).
The gear change box, together with the handout of the power take-off shaft, is used from the gas-53 dump truck, and the clutch mechanism is from the GAZ-52 car. To dock the clutch basket to the engine, I had to cook the new casing of the basket and remake the engine flywheel. On the lathe of the flywheel is cut off the rear plane and additionally the center hole is flowed. When installing the part in place, the same is previously deployed 180 °.
The rear axle is used from the Bulgarian car car without alterations. The suspension of the bridge is not, and it is attached to the frame to the frame, with the help of four stepladder. Cardan shaft, although not long, had to make composite. The rear part of it with a cross - from the car driver, and the front - from GAZ-52. The parts of the shaft are connected by the slotted sleeve at the end of one part and the slot tip on the other.
The rear depreciation is carried out due to 18-inch pneumatic tires Wheels borrowed from the car increased passibility GAZ-66. To plant these wheels, the average part with the mounting holes cut out of the disk, and the same part of the disc from the wheel of the car ZIL-130 was the same part of the wheel of the ZIL-130 car - its landing holes correspond to the autofirsty.
The front axle did himself. He is not a lead. Its design corresponds to the fact that it has been brought more than once in publications about improvised tractors in the magazine "Model-Designer". The hubs of the front wheels, like the wheels themselves, are used from the GAZ-69 car.
And here steering My tractor is not quite ordinary - hydraulic. It starts to work only with the engine on, but it is much easier than mechanical. And although the principle of his work is similar to the car carrier, the mechanism itself is mainly homemade, using nodes and parts from various techniques.
The operation of the steering mechanism is provided by the NSh-10's own oil gear pump, which is fixed on the engine and has a drive from it.
The steering wheel together with the dispenser is used from the KSK-100A combine.
Where usually vehicle There is a steering mechanism (for example, a gear and rack), which controls the steering rods, on my tractor there is a steering hydraulic cylinder. He is homemade, bilateral action - his piston has one, and rods - two. The free ends of the rods are connected to the tips of the steering. Move the piston in the cylinder in one or the other side is provided by the supply of oil under pressure from the dispenser, through one of two fittings (alternately), mounted in the cylinder walls on the opposite sides.
1 - front traverse (Sweller No. 12); 2 - front stage of the spar (Sweller number 10, 2 pcs.); 3 - crossing (Sweller number 12); 4 - submool bracket (Sweller number 8, 2 pcs.); 5 - the middle stage of the spar (Schweller No. 10.2 pcs.); 6 - Console underground grille (pipe 60 × 40.2 pcs.); 7 - rear stage of the spar (80 × 80.2 pcs.); 8 - rear traverse (Sweller No. 16); 9 - subsidence (corner 20 × 20, 2 pcs.); 10 - Persistent Bracket Docking Snake (Steel Sheet S5, 2 PCS.); 11- Bracket suspension front Bridge
1 - front wheel (from GAZ-69, 2 pcs.); 2 - radiator (from the Bulgarian car driver); 3- Engine 4-cylinder, diesel, with a capacity of 40 hp (from the Bulgarian car car); 4- clutch mechanism (from GAZ-52); 5 - transmission change box (from GAZ-53); 6 - manual brake; 7 - rear wheel (from GAZ-66, 2 pcs.); 8 - Snack for fastening the tillage tools (from the MTZ-80 tractor); 9 - Power takeoff shaft (from agricultural machinery); 10- Rear Axle (from the Bulgarian Autocar); 11-card shaft; 12 - transfer case Power take-off shaft (from GAZ-53); 13 - frame; 14 - Front Axle
1 - wheel hub (from GAZ-69, 2 pcs.); 2 - swivel fist (from GAZ-69, 2 pcs.); 3 - sleeve swivel fist (pipe Ø77); 4 - Bridge beam (Pipes Ø77 and Ø70)
1 steering wheel (from combine KSK-100A); 2 - dispenser (from the KSK-100Agan combine); 3 - high pressure hoses (from agricultural machinery); 4 - hydraulic cylinder; 5 - NSh-10 pump; 6 - Oil tank (receiver from T-150 tractor trolley)
1- hinge steering thrust (2 pcs.); 2 - tie Rod (2 pcs.); 3 - locknight M18x1.5 (2 pcs.); 4 - rod (steel, circle 28, 2 pcs.); 5 - a glass (steel, circle 70, 2pcs.); 6 - threaded fitting (G 1/2 ", 2 pcs.); 7 - cylinder housing (60 × 5 pipe); 8 - piston (steel, circle 50); 9 - bracket (steel, sheet S5); 10 - Cuffs with spring rings
The double-sided cylinder of the steering mechanism produced from a conventional hydraulic cylinder from agricultural machinery. The hydraulic cylinder disassembled, a deaf flange cut off and overtakes the thread here under the same glass as on the other end of the cylinder. Here, near the threads in the wall embedded another fitting for the hose. The piston left unchanged, only one of the cuff turned over. The rod has a little rooted, and to the piston, on the other hand, it was connected by the threaded hole another one - homemade. In the free ends of the rods, the tips of the steering pull from GAZ-69 fastened. The cylinder assembled on the front bridge with two M12 bolts.
There is still a separate hydraulic system on the tractor, which is connected by the power cylinder of the rear suspension of work management (lifting - lowering) of agricultural tools. Its operation provides the NSH-32 pump, which is also installed on the engine. Power cylinder hits (like the sample itself) - from the MTZ-80 tractor.
The expansion oil tank is 10 liters made from the receiver T-150 dump truck receiver.
The tractor cabin is solid (the top is not removable), with a large glazing area, wide side windows with top hide open outward. The door is one - on the left side.
The frame of the cabin is welded from square pipes (20 × 20 mm and 40 × 40 mm) and rectangular (40 × 20 mm) section. Door and other side wall are covered with a steel sheet with a thickness of 2 mm. Cab roof, like wings (front and rear), deployed from a solid 3-mm steel sheet. On the rear wings for rigidity made by flap, and an arc from the longitudinal halves of the semi-leaf tube is made to the front. The frame of the hood is welded from angle of 35 × 35 mm and trimmed with a profile steel sheet with a thickness of 2 mm. Two headlights from Moskvich-2140 mounted to the front panel of the hood. Rear signal lights - from T-150 tractor, front - from GAZ-52. In front of the cabin is covered noise insulating material, And the roof is the leatherette with a lining of thermal insulation.
Cabin equipment usual. Homemade seat, the ST-90 battery and tool box are placed under it. The instrument panel is equipped with an ammeter, oil pressure sensors and coolant temperatures. The electrical wiring of the tractor homemade, its scheme is used from the T-40 tractor. Transmission controls: Speed \u200b\u200bswitching handle, clutch shutdown mechanism, gas control drive from GAZ-52 car.
The cabin is equipped with a heating system with a stove from the DT-75 tractor, and the wiper from the T-80 tractor. There is a radio receiver "Ural-Auto".
Working brakes in a hydraulic tractor with a drive only on rear wheels. Manual brake - mechanical, its disk stands on the cardan shaft and is made in the form of a fork flange of a cardan hinge of the main transmission.
Tractor's transport speed - up to 37 km / h, and working - 2 km / h.
The tractor in the technical supercharger organs is registered without any problems and received a state license plate.
M. Simonov, p. Soundstenki, Saratov region
It is hard to present agriculture without the use of special equipment. But most private farmers cannot afford the purchase of a mini tractor. On small land plots You can do with manual instruments, but on the area more than 1 hectare will not be enough. The homemade tractor is not inferior in the effectiveness of most factory models.
Basic varieties of homemade tractors
Due to high fuel consumption, mass and dimensions. Use of large and powerful tractors On a small plot is inconvenient and irrational. For their manufacture, accurate calculations are required, which are difficult without engineering skills at home.
The mini-tractor is considered a multifunctional technique and is able to handle up to 10 hectares. This is enough for private farming. It should be approached not only to care for the garden, but also for cleaning the snow, transportation of goods and debris. When designing its design, these features should be taken into account.
There are 2 approaches to creating your own tractor:
- Re-equipment of finished agricultural machinery. In the overwhelming majority as the basis protrudes the motoblock to which the frame is joined with an additional pair of wheels and the driver's place. This method allows you to quickly and with minimal efforts to build a simple and function tractor.
- Full manufacture. It is used in the absence of a base or with specific appliances requirements. In this case, the chassis is designed and manufactured independently, and components are selected on the basis of financial capabilities and structural features.
Some enthusiasts build steam tractors. A separate boiler allows you to use almost any kind of fuel fuel. This type of energy conversion was distributed in the 1900s. Due to the low efficiency, the bulky design and the small stock of the steam engines cannot compete with the engine. Application of outdated technologies in agriculture It is a costly event and used for entertainment.
Features of tractor manufacturing
The homemade technique has the most simplified scheme, and during its manufacture, nodes and aggregates from other equipment are used. The goal is to get cheap and reliable design. For assembly, the basic instrument handling skills will be required and minimal technical knowledge.
When designing its own design, use details with minimal modifications. Parts should be easily accessible and inexpensive. A large number of self-made elements in the design will lead to an increase in the cost and duration of repair.
Performing accurate calculation of strength and loads is almost impossible at home, therefore the frame and the remaining carrier structures are manufactured with a large margin of strength.
If there are drawings and the necessary equipment, the tractor itself can be made in 3 months.
Preparation of drawings
Before purchasing and preparing nodes, the project of the future tractor must be compiled. As a basis, you can take drawings of finished models. Spare parts that you have, may differ from the claimed, and it will be easy to change the finished design scheme. Exist ready solutions For any modifications.
If it is not possible to use a finished project, then it is necessary to prepare draft sketches yourself. In the process of assembly, the layout of the elements may change, but you must understand how individual nodes will be located.
Each farmer or dacket wants to simplify work in the garden. For this, it is not necessary to purchase expensive aggregates, in this case Homemade tractors will help. Having made the technique, you can not only save, but also get a great "helper", which will fulfill such tasks as snow cleaning, hay, plowing land soil or transportation of the collected crop. If there is a small experience in working with similar equipment, the self-made minitractor will not be much difficult to construct.
Pluses of homemade tractors
The process of manufacturing equipment does not require large investments. Homemade tractors Home masters produce from outdated household equipment, only missing spare parts will need to buy in the store. If there is already small-sized agricultural aggregates in the form of a motor-block or a cultivator, the task of making a minitractor is even more facilitated.
The work on the assembly of the homemade is facilitated if there is already a motoblock or cultivator
Also from the plus homemade minitractors It is necessary to allocate the possibility of regulating the equipment individually under the manager. The farmer can independently select the desired size parameters, combine the mechanisms, nodes, and not be content with the set of functions of the factory counterpart.
Here, of course, there are also the disadvantages that are as follows:
- during the collection process, difficulties may arise;
- it is enough to build a connection diagram of all nodes;
- most elements are used in a used state, and their subsequent use can lead to a quick wear;
- during the operation of the unit, breakdowns may occur due to insufficient masters.
Relatively with the benefits of a number of shortcomings are large. But if the dachnik is confident in his capabilities and skills, he exactly will definitely get a qualitative home-made tractor with his own hands.
Constructive features
First of all, before making a mini tractor, it is necessary to determine its components. Most simple model The small-sized tractor in the design has the following elements:
- motor - as a given part, you can take the basis of a motoblock or a scooter;
- reliable frame - all components will be installed on it;
- hydraulic type brake device;
- design with brake discs;
- hodovka - should include wheels and 2 axes;
- device fixing attachments;
- steering system;
- seat seat;
- headlights
All items need to be mounted in a specific sequence by the selected scheme.
Videos: How to assemble a unit from a motor-block
We select the engine for the self-made tractor
For a homemade mini tractor, a lot of motors options are suitable. One of the optimal is considered the ZID engine, which is initially designed for use in independently manufactured equipment. The 4-stroke motor with one cylinder and a volume of 4.5 liters will perfectly cope with the processing of land soil, dimensions of 2-3 hectares.
If the farmer has a fiberboard, then the task is facilitated twice. The fact is that the use of the motoblock eliminates the need to search for a bridge with adhesion, welding the front of the frame and the selection of the steering device, all this is already in this technique.
What is needed for frame
To transfer torque on rear axle Mini tractor with a breaking frame (if the engine will be in front) in the course of the bridges from trucks
To do this, we will need strong iron corners or a stamp channel number 8 with dimensions of 90x36 cm. The rear area of \u200b\u200bthe frame must be collected under the parameters 68x36 cm. After completing the framework of the framework, the front part should be welded 2 transverse tubes with square cross section With cut. This element will serve as a stand under the motor. The remaining holders are mounted on the basis of the selected scheme.
When connecting two parts of the frame, you need to use a hinge and 2 forks. For the first part, a pin with bearings from KamAZ applied. After all, a canvas is welded to mounted equipment.
To begin with, it is necessary to boo on the frame vertical metal racks with the strengthening of the corners. The front axle of the self-made tractor should be made from a monolithic rod with a cross section of 50 mm. In the middle of the semi-cylindrical nozzle, a hinge is installed. At the edges of the beams, the KAMAZ Tsarf is mounted "ears" for a pivot, and wheels are attached to them.
To organize the most accurate direction on the equipment, a distributor is set. On the front area near the motor, the oil tank is fastened, and the in the middle of the device is fixed by the sleeve responsible for swaying the front axle. We should not forget that at the end of these actions you need to install a spool, it is required to remove the oil.
The hitch is required for fixing additional devices. In this case, the best option will serve as a three-point variation consisting of 2 thrust fixed on a metal canvase and a mounted device. As an third point of fixation, the drive of the hydraulic motor and additional traction will be.
For proper and serviceable operation, it is recommended to install movable rods with a diameter of 4-5 cm, and only from them already mounted hinged equipment.
Installing the brake system with a clutch on a homemade tractor
The brakes are mounted directly to the rear leading wheels. The best option Will serve as a system from UAZ. Pads should be installed on the discs, and the control mechanism is displayed to the desired pedal. Also, the brake for convenience can be done manually by connecting to the lever.
If a clutch is required in a homemade tractor, a traditional belt drive is suitable here. Use the ready-made system from the car such a brand as "Moskvich" or UAZ. The pipe producing pressure on the belt is mounted on the frame of the spring attached to the eye placed in the middle. The second part is welded with a pedal through the lever.
Steering device and armchair
Steering for a minitractor made with your own hands is suitable from the car "Moskvich". In this case, unlike other variations, the element will turn to the other side. To avoid this "defect", it is necessary to attach parts from the zhiguli instead of standard thrust, while the hubs use from Zaporozhets. Fully transfer the device to the right direction will help a special lever made of steel, it is mounted between the column and all the traction.
After the manipulations carried out, you can start fixing the driver's seat. The seat is attached to the welded frame by vertical angles or directly to the pipe structure with a rectangular cross section in the context. To reduce the transmission of oscillations in the process of operation, the chair should be installed on durable shock absorbers with an additional attachment of traction.
If necessary, you can create a full-fledged driver's cabin. There are several steel canvases. They are cut on the necessary form and weld to the frame.
Conclusion
The homemade minitractor will fully be able to show itself in such works as a snow cleaning, plowing the soil, transporting the collected crop or small cargo. But adding the unit by attachments to the device will become an indispensable assistant in the farm, regardless of the complexity of work.
Video: Where to start an assembly of a minitractor homemade
If you have a trailer for the motoblock, it means you can save on the carriage of goods. Typically, the design of trailers for the motoblock involves independent operation of the wheel of the trailer and the motoblock to which it is attached. This is useful when you work with cargo in rural areas.
How to make brakes on the trailer to the motoblock
Everyone who did homemade trailer After the first trip, the question is asked: how to make brakes on the trailer to the motoblock, because it is not possible to slow down from the mountain, and you risk getting into an accident.
If you wanted to put on your purchased brake trailer, or want to equip a homemade trolley, keep in mind that the brake system is an aggregate organ that is almost always removed from a passenger car And remake a little for new needs.
Brakes brakes - Returns. If you listen to mechanics, you can hear about parking brakes that poorly brake the trailer when it is loaded, especially if you put it on the slope. Why do we need brakes that stop the trailer only when it is empty?
You can put tape brakes on the trailer, but they are practically useless and do not fulfill their function.
I know one successful case when a man attached his trailer for the brake motoblock. But only he made them on one wheel. Well, if you have an old motorcycle. Remove from it brake pads and drum.
You will also need a motorcycle wheel. Throw the knit from the wheel, get rid of the rim. You need a metal drum. Remove from disk traction and cable. Make a groove (if you can not. Give the drive to a familiar to the turner).
When working with a disc will be ready, proceed to assembling the brakes for a motor-block trailer. Dress the drum on the hub. Secure it from behind, wrap a thick wire of the drum between his ribs.
The metal disk, over which he conducted a dice, sit on the axis and fix it with a sleeve. In order for the disc to be rotated, take the welding machine and breed the pipe cutting to it. In order to control the brake system, make the lever and pull the cable to it. In principle, it's all.
Brakes on the trailer to the motoroblock do it yourself
So, we have already said that in order to equip the trailer for a motoblock most often use parking brakes on the trailer to the motoroblock. With the help of them, you can leave a trailer with a motoblock stand for a long time, put under a slope, or stop while driving. In general, everything is almost the same as we used this braking system in the car.
The only difference is that in the car it acts as a spare due to its primitive work and the device. Such brakes are activated using a manual or foot control from the driver using the pedal, or with the lever.
Parking brakes consist of a mechanical brake drive and brake mechanism. The operator when interacting with the lever or pedal, starts the mechanical drive and transmits an action on the braking mechanism.
The action from the lever to the brake mechanisms is transmitted through the cables. There may be three of them. One, front, connected to the lever, and the two rear - with the wheels of our trailer. The lever activates the front cable, which pulls the other two. Such interaction is ensured due to the equalizer. Cables are attached to the lever and wheels.
It is very good that in such a braking system there is an adjusting nut, with which you can easily change the length of the mechanical drive. It is useful when you removed the brakes from the old gas and decided to rearrange on the trailer for the motor-block, if shorter or longer. In addition, you can always have new cables - there would be a desire.
To remove the trailer from the brake, you just need to move the lever to the opposite position. To do this, in the design of the parking brake, a return spring was invented, which can be attached to the front cable, to the braking mechanism, or to be on the equalizer.
Figure scheme brake systemwhich you can see below
1 - handle; 2 - brake control lever; 3 - bracket; 4 - mechanical drive lever; 5 - guide cable; 6 - Returning spring; 7 - Eccentric adjustment; 8 - bracket; 9 - rear cable; 10 - equalizer; 11 - cable equalizer; 12 - brake lever; 13 - the switch of the control lamp (such a part is needed rather in cars, if you alter the brakes under the trailer, it will not be needed for you).
Homemade brakes on the trailer for Motoblock: drawings, schemes
In fact, you do not need drawings of how to redo the finished brakes from the car for the trailer to the motoblock, or from several parts to collect entire brakes, as we described earlier. The meaning of the drawings is to master the idea of \u200b\u200bthe proportions of the entire product.
In the description, how to make self brakes to a trailer for a motoblock, you will rather be a brake device diagram. As an addition to the foregoing and parking brakes, we provide you with an additional scheme of parking brakes for trailer with a control pedal.
1 - axis; 2 - footboard; 3 - brake pedal; 4 - shock absorber in the form of a rubber ring; 5 - drawn; 6 - Returning spring; 7 - pedal lever; 8 - Bracket connecting the main brake cylinder.
How to make brakes on a trailer for a motoblock: video
In order for you to be clearer what we looked at the above, we suggest you watch video with homemade brakes on the trailer to the Motoblock.
I'll start with the fact that myself myself a miniractor, in general, and was not needed - like most Soviet dachas, I have a plot of only 6 acres and it was quite possible to do without technology. Here simply played the role of thrust for creativity, plus there were already some workers on creating a self-made tractor with a breaking frame. Yes, and in the garage by that time a fair pile of "iron" of many different origins was accumulated.
For example, I got the engine from a friend, at one time I helped him with the repair of his ancient car, and in exchange I received an unknown model to me, but obviously Soviet origin (this is a sign of the quality mark on the cast block and the appropriate inscription). Most likely, the engine has a military origin, because in civil engineering such motors did not meet me, but I will tell about it later.
Tractor motor
The rest of the iron also came to me about the same ways. The missing part was looking for on the basis of merchandise, the benefit of the base is near, and the approach of such institutions is known to everyone, I think.
For the manufacture of a minitractor was spent about a year of time, most of which took away the aforementioned searches. The main work was carried out in your free time, it should be noted that I have access to machines and welding - it made it possible to avoid all sorts of wires and need to contact the "uncle" in order to pull out or weld some item.
Idea
Over the tractor scheme, I thought not long, almost immediately stopped on a breaking frame (I have long wanted to try). With such a scheme, it seems to me, there is the possibility of all the nodes and aggregates of the tractor. In favor of this scheme, there is also the fact that in the usual version for the front controlled wheels, there is quite a lot of space, while there is no need to turn them with a broken frame.
Scheme of homemade tractor
As it turned out, this scheme well showed itself in small areas.
Engine
As mentioned above, the engine I got unfamiliar. It was a two-cylinder diesel, almost staffed. I had to make it only a generator from GAZ-53 and a starter from fifty-first lawn. At the starter replaced the Bendix - the staff did not go to the flywheel of a diesel engine. According to my estimates, the engine power is located in the area of \u200b\u200b20 hp. The torque was sufficient to carry out all work on the site without any problems. Yes, and the muffler and fuel tank I picked up from the old motocoles, and the radiator with the fan from the zhiguli.
Rama design
Rama minitractor was obtained articulated with a fracture along the vertical plane. Swivel knot Completed on the basis of the Mazovian cardan. This required a few simple actions:
- Fix the welding horizontal semi-axes of crosses in the middle fork.
- Prevory to the flange of the back plug metal plate with a thickness of 12 millimeters.
- Connect the flanges of the front and medium plug bolts, and then welcome the front fork to the opposite parts of the front frame.
Tractor frame scheme
Frame (on top of above, the subframe and the stand are not conditionally shown): 1 - bumper (channel 6.5); 2 - Kosyanka (Steel sheet S4, 8 pcs.); 3 - front side member (60 × 40 pipe, 2 pcs.); 4 - ears of the front suspension (steel sheet S4, 8 pcs.); 5 - Support front inclined rack (steel sheet 4mm, 2 pcs.); 6 - front inclined portal rack (60 × 40 tube, 2 pcs.); 7 - cross-beam of the portal (from truck); 8 - a cup of shock absorber (part of the wheel of a car of a passenger car, 2 pcs.); 9 - Following the inclined portal rack (60 × 40 pipe, 2 pcs.); 10 - vertical front half-frame rack (corner 70 × 70, 2 pcs.); 11 - articulating hinge ( cardan hinge from car MAZ); 12 - transverse wall (steel sheet S12); 13 - longitudinal wall (steel sheet S10, 2 pcs.); 14 - the lower (internal) spar of the rear half-frame (Sweller No. 6.5.2 pcs.); 15 - - Firefold ML6 (steel bar with diameter 16, 4 pcs.); 16 top (outer) spar rear half-weather (pipe 60 × 40, 2 pcs.); 17 - lower outer spar of the subframe (pipe 60 × 40 2 pcs.); 18 - Upper inner spar of the subframe (Sweller number 6,5, 2 pcs.); 19 - Longitudinal beam Stand (Schweller No. 6.5 - 2 pcs.): 20 - Stand Stand (Sweller No. 6.5, 2 pcs.); 21 - rear transverse beam (Schweller No. 9); 22 - front transverse beam (70 × 70 corner); 23 - rear axle beam (from the electrocar)
The back of the frame was very simple: 2 pieces of channel are connected in "P" a shaped structure with steel strips with a thickness of 10 and 12 mm. The elements of the rear axle mounting elements are welded (from the electric car of the Bulgarian production), which is fixed with stepladers through the abrasion of the structure. The stand is arranged behind the stand, as made in the form of the letter "P", and serving for fastening the hidcast with a hydraulic cylinder. You can install a variety of tillage tools on the hitch - the design turned out to be durable.
As already mentioned, the rear axle was used from the electric car, he did not require any alterations and in the assembled form perfectly stood in his place. The only thing that took is to turn the front wheels from the "MTZ" inner side It's outward and rebuild them again. This was done so that the rhana size was equal to the width of the rod (70 cm.). The rear suspension of the tractor is rigid, so the amortization is achieved by some decrease in the pressure in the wheels.
Scheme my suspension
Suspension front wheel (Pos. 2,3,4,5,6,7.8,9,11,12,13,15 - from the car ZAZ-968): 1 - Rama portal; 2 - pendant lever (from the car "Zaporozhets"); 3 - rubber buffer; 4 - flange; 5 - shock absorber; 6 - lower glass of springs; 7 - spring; 8 - top glass shock absorber; 9 - Screw with washer: 10 - rubber gasket; 11 - Nut with a washer; 12 - silent block shock absorber; 13 - pin bracket lever suspension; 14 - bolt with a split nut (2 sets); 15 - Silent Block lever (2 pcs.)
The front of the frame has a spatial construction, respectively, it had to be terrible. It turned out so from the fact that the front wheels (from the Bulgarian electric car having instead of normal tires, rubberized rim) conceived on an independent suspension. The main elements are taken from rear suspension An old "Zaporozhets", now I already think that it was still done, make the pendants of the suspension itself (a little other geometry). The levers are suspended on hinges that are attached to the bumper from the sewller 6.
The shock absorbers with the upper ends are attached in the framework, which envelopes the wheels (there was a thought of making the tractor all-wheel drive, so it was possible to bring the semi-axis with cardanes). From above, the whole design is connected by a transverse beam with a platform fixed on it. At the site installed dashboard From the "lawn", the bracket of the steering column and the fuel tank. For installation of the engine in the semiramp, spars with rubber pillows are provided. dimensions The collected frame 2080 is 730 mm.
Transmission
In the transmission, did not invent anything, and applied the usual clutch diagram, gearbox, and the cardan transmission. The donor was an ancient "GAZ-51", transmission numbers Its gearboxes as it is impossible to suit the characteristics of the engine. The tractor is more important a decent traction effort than speed, so on this side I never had complaints about the box. Another advantage of the Gas box was the presence of a window to attach the power take-off shaft, from the armored personnel carrier ("six oxades", approached with the case, as if native).
The power take-off box has a pair of levers, one of them is activated on the power of the power take-off shaft, and the other lever turns on the oil pump drive for hydraulic system (NSh-10 pump). The pot of this system has found its place under the driver's seat, tank capacity 10 liters. Next to the tank is the battery box. By the way - the entire electrician on the Tractor 12 is a volt, battery from the passenger car.
Carter of the clutch joins the motor through the adapter from the steel plate with holes. The grip is equipped with a hydraulic drive from the same donor as the entire transmission.
The cardan transmission is short with two hinges, it makes it possible to freely transfer torque from the box to the differential reducer even at the critical angles of rotation of the frame parts relative to each other. On the same shaft, a hand-made drum brake is installed together with the mechanism. Considering that the speed of the tractor is small, made it and workers - not mistaken, works properly.
Drawing of the brake system of my tractor
Brake System Scheme: 1 - Handle; 2 - leash of the removal of the stopper; 3 - toothed sector; 4 - dog-stopper; 5 - thrust with a forklift adjustable tip; 6 - drive lever; 7 - drum with brake mechanism; 8 - transmission change box; 9 - Cardan hinge; 10 - lever stroke limiter; 11 - bolt of fastening of the gear sector to the gearbox carder; 12 - lever axis
Steering without kinematics, fully hydraulic - from the forklift. In my opinion, a very convenient system - with the frame of the frame, the frame is completely folded when the steering wheel is rotated by one hand, I personally like it.
Steering
Scheme of the steering (A - left turn; B - Right turn): 1 - steering wheel with a hydraulic cylinder; 2 - vertical front half-weather stand; 3 - armhole bracket of the working cylinder, 4-worker cylinder; 5 - rear semirases; 6 - articulating hinge; 7 - hydraulic hoses
The folding of the frame carries out a hydraulic cylinder, fixed by its ends on the front and rear semiramps. By the way, the same cylinder makes lifting and lowering attached units.
The control of the hydraulic system is carried out using a spool distributor from the tractor of the MTZ family. The distributor is fixed under the right side of the battery case.
The exploitation of the tractor did not imply ride on the roads of general use and in dark time day, so I did not bother with the lighting devices. For its convenience, only put the rear-view mirrors, so that during plowing, and other operations do not look back even back.
The minimum clearance of the device was released about 250 millimeters, I think it is quite enough for the conditions of your site.
