It is hard to present agriculture without the use of special equipment. But most private farmers cannot afford the purchase of a mini tractor. On small land plots You can do with manual instruments, but on the area more than 1 hectare will not be enough. The homemade tractor is not inferior in the effectiveness of most factory models.
Basic varieties of homemade tractors
because of high expellation fuel, masses and dimensions Using big and powerful tractors On a small plot is inconvenient and irrational. For their manufacture, accurate calculations are required, which are difficult without engineering skills at home.
The mini-tractor is considered a multifunctional technique and is able to handle up to 10 hectares. This is enough for private farming. It should be approached not only to care for the garden, but also for cleaning the snow, transportation of goods and debris. When designing its design, these features should be taken into account.
There are 2 approaches to creating your own tractor:
- Re-equipment of finished agricultural machinery. In the overwhelming majority as the basis protrudes the motoblock to which the frame is joined with an additional pair of wheels and the driver's place. This method allows you to quickly and with minimal efforts to build a simple and function tractor.
- Full manufacture. It is used in the absence of a base or with specific appliances requirements. In this case, the chassis is designed and manufactured independently, and components are selected on the basis of financial capabilities and structural features.
Some enthusiasts build steam tractors. A separate boiler allows you to use almost any kind of fuel fuel. This type of energy conversion was distributed in the 1900s. Due to the low efficiency, the bulky design and the small stock of the steam engines cannot compete with the engine. Application of outdated technologies in agriculture It is a costly event and used for entertainment.
Features of tractor manufacturing
The homemade technique has the most simplified scheme, and during its manufacture, nodes and aggregates from other equipment are used. The goal is to get cheap and reliable design. For assembly, the basic instrument handling skills will be required and minimal technical knowledge.
When designing its own design, use details with minimal modifications. Parts should be easily accessible and inexpensive. A large number of self-made elements in the design will lead to an increase in the cost and duration of repair.
Performing accurate calculation of strength and loads is almost impossible at home, therefore the frame and the remaining carrier structures are manufactured with a large margin of strength.
If there are drawings and the necessary equipment, the tractor itself can be made in 3 months.
Preparation of drawings
Before purchasing and preparing nodes, the project of the future tractor must be compiled. As a basis, you can take drawings of finished models. Spare parts that you have, may differ from the claimed, and it will be easy to change the finished design scheme. Exist ready solutions For any modifications.
If it is not possible to use a finished project, then it is necessary to prepare draft sketches yourself. In the process of assembly, the layout of the elements may change, but you must understand how individual nodes will be located.
The tractor did with his own hands during the times of the Soviet Union. How to make a car, every folk craftsman came up with independently. At that time there was no Internet, where you can find almost any information. Therefore, everyone who needed a homemade tractor, independently sought out the situation.
Currently, there are several reasons for the manufacture of the tractor with their own hands. Someone does not suit the technical characteristics of the available models and he wants to create a car that is optimally relevant to its individual requests. Other tribal lacks money for the purchase of even a used tractor, but there is a need to use this agricultural machinery.
Unlike Soviet times, we have the opportunity to take advantage of the worldwide cobweb. There you can find drawings and detailed instructions By assembling a self-made tractor. We want to tell you one such model in this article.
How to make a homemade tractor
You can take the drawings proposed by the Saratov inventor and add their additions to them. In the course of the description, we will give you practical adviceHow to improve the design.
Frame
The basis of any technique is a frame. It is on her that the weight of mounted equipment and other tractor nodes lies. If you are familiar with agricultural machinery, you should know that all tractors available on the market have a all-metal or turning frame.
The whole frame provides a great reliability technique, and a turning point - maneuverability. Which option to give preference to solve only you. Simonov used for the manufacture of its model one-piece option.
To do this, use a metal channel or pipe with square cross section. Side spars are made from channel number 10 or 12. For the front and rear traverse, it is recommended to use No. 16.
From the twelfth channel, a transverse beam is made, which will perform the function of the ribbon rib. The front part of the frame where the engine will be located, it is recommended to enhance with metal corners.
If you want the technique made by your own hands, has a good maneuverability, then two semirases listed above are above. They must be connected to each other hinge. You can use for these purposes to connect from the main gear of trucks.
Engine and transmission
Simonov used 40-strong in his tractor diesel engine Watery cooling. This four-cylinder unit was removed by the designer with a faulty loader. Most likely, you will not have a written off car driver at hand, so you have to show a mixture.
On the tractor made by your own hands, you can install almost any engine suitable for power.. Considering that you make a full-fledged tractor, and not a flober on four wheels, recommended diesel power should vary from 30 to 80 horsepower.
To find the desired unit, you can use the Internet or to inspect nearby carvomes. Surely it turns out to find power installation for a symbolic fee.
For the proposed design, you can use the gearbox from GAZ-53 and grip from GAZ-52. To connect a diesel with a clutch, you will need to trim the engine flywheel and drill an extra hole in the center.
The rear axle of this model is presenter, so it is best to install the finished part. Make a rear leading bridge with your own hands is quite difficult. Simonov removed the necessary node from the aforementioned loader.
The front axle is manageable, so it can be made with your own hands. The drawings and the front axle assembly scheme can be found on the Internet. The hubs and the front wheels can be borrowed from GAZ-69. Brakes are recommended to use disc. They can be placed on the cardan shaft.
Hydraulics and steering
To the homemade tractor possessed good handling, it is recommended to install hydraulic steering. To do this, you will need a gear-type NSh-10 pump.
This design can be removed by virtually any decomposed agricultural machinery. The pump is mounted for the engine and works only when the diesel engine is turned on. The steering wheel can be removed from the KSK 100 or or similar to it. Instead of the steering rail, it is necessary to install a hydraulic cylinder.
To make a self-made tractor truly functional, a hydraulic system is needed. Without her technician will not be able to work with hinged equipment. The finished hitch together with the cylinder can be removed from the MTZ-80 tractor.
In order for the hydraulics to function normally, an additional pump is fixed on the power plant. Optimally suitable for NSh-32 performance. For oil, it will take the capacity with a volume of about 10 liters. All hydraulics nodes are connected by flexible hoses.
Cabin
The workplace can be made from a metal profile. As a sheat, M. Simonov used steel sheets with a thickness of 2 mm. The same material will be needed to cover the hood.
From the inside the cabin can be removed by leatherette, pre-placing between the inner and outer shearing layer of the insulation. With chalks of problems there will be no problems, they are removed from any old technique and are used already in the finished form.
Driving seat takes away from any truck car, Under it can be placed battery. Self-wiring homemade. As an example, you can use electrical circuit Tractor T-40.
In order not to have problems with DPS employees, you need to install the headlight tractor and parking lights. It is worth noting that Simonov did without any problems registered the tractor collected with his own hands, in the traffic police and received a license plate.
The tractor model collected according to this scheme shows good performance and permeability. The technique can move at a speed of 37 km / h. When performing work, high-speed indicators May decrease to 2 km / h.
As mentioned, you can take the proposed design as a basis and at its base to collect your tractor, which will meet your requests.
No one should explain that the tractor for rural households - The car is not only necessary, but also necessary. As before the peasant economy could not do without a horse, so now it can not do without a tractor. Only now to purchase such technique to whom it is most needed, that is, a simple rural worker - as they say, not on the pocket.
But if the owner is a man of workshop, as the author of the Liberate article, Mikhail Simonov from the village of Sadenki Balakovo district of the Saratov region, then he can make a tractor and himself. Literally from scrap metal, Mikhail gathered such a tractor, which is little in what is inferior to such industrial manufacturing machines, and not only technical characteristicsBut even in appearance.
Description made by M. Simon tractor, we begin with the frame design. The frame is quite simple - symmetrical, almost rectangular and not even spatial. But all the aggregates and chassis nodes: the engine, transmission, wheel suspension - located on it although tightly, but rationally.
Rama welded. The main power elements are pairs of spars (right and left) and traverse (front and rear). The spars are made composite, three-speed. The two front stages of the spars are made of channel number 10, and the latter is 80 × 80 mm from the square tube. The front traverse is made of Schawler No. 12, and the rear - from Schawler No. 16. From Schawler No. 12, another frame element was made - cross. The pair of inspection brackets is made of channel number 8, but each of them is welded from two segments in such a way that the shelves of their parts are directed in different directions. For the floor of the cabin, which goes beyond the frame, the frames of the rectangular section of 60 × 40 mm are welded. Frames welded console to middle steps of spars with their outside In the place where they are joined with the rear steps. Such an emission in the metal sorting is not so much constructive necessity as the material available in stock.
On the frame collected tractor chassis: installed force aggregate, transmission, front and rear axlewheels.
Power unit - 4-cylinder diesel engine of water cooling with a capacity of about 40 hp He is taken from the writer of the Bulgarian car driver (loader).
The gear change box, together with the handout of the power take-off shaft, is used from the gas-53 dump truck, and the clutch mechanism is from the GAZ-52 car. To dock the clutch basket to the engine, I had to cook the new casing of the basket and remake the engine flywheel. On the lathe of the flywheel is cut off the rear plane and additionally the center hole is flowed. When installing the part in place, the same is previously deployed 180 °.
The rear axle is used from the Bulgarian car car without alterations. The suspension of the bridge is not, and it is attached to the frame to the frame, with the help of four stepladder. Cardan shaft, although not long, had to make composite. The rear part of it with a cross - from the car driver, and the front - from GAZ-52. The parts of the shaft are connected by the slotted sleeve at the end of one part and the slot tip on the other.
The rear depreciation is carried out due to 18-inch pneumatic tires Wheels borrowed from the car increased passibility GAZ-66. To plant these wheels, the average part with the mounting holes cut out of the disk, and the same part of the disc from the wheel of the car ZIL-130 was the same part of the wheel of the ZIL-130 car - its landing holes correspond to the autofirsty.
The front axle did himself. He is not a lead. Its design corresponds to the fact that it has been brought more than once in publications about improvised tractors in the magazine "Model-Designer". The hubs of the front wheels, like the wheels themselves, are used from the GAZ-69 car.
But the steering of my tractor is not quite ordinary - hydraulic. It starts to work only with the engine on, but it is much easier than mechanical. And although the principle of his work is similar to the car carrier, the mechanism itself is mainly homemade, using nodes and parts from various techniques.
The operation of the steering mechanism is provided by the NSh-10's own oil gear pump, which is fixed on the engine and has a drive from it.
The steering wheel together with the dispenser is used from the KSK-100A combine.
Where usually vehicle There is a steering mechanism (for example, a gear and rack), which controls the steering rods, on my tractor there is a steering hydraulic cylinder. He is homemade, bilateral action - his piston has one, and rods - two. The free ends of the rods are connected to the tips of the steering. Move the piston in the cylinder in one or the other side is provided by the supply of oil under pressure from the dispenser, through one of two fittings (alternately), mounted in the cylinder walls on the opposite sides.
1 - front traverse (Sweller number 12); 2 - front stage of the spar (Sweller number 10, 2 pcs.); 3 - crossing (Sweller number 12); 4 - submool bracket (Sweller number 8, 2 pcs.); 5 - the middle stage of the spar (Schweller No. 10.2 pcs.); 6 - Console underground grille (pipe 60 × 40.2 pcs.); 7 - rear stage of the spar (80 × 80.2 pcs.); 8 - rear traverse (Sweller No. 16); 9 - subsidence (corner 20 × 20, 2 pcs.); 10 - Persistent Bracket Docking Snake (Steel Sheet S5, 2 PCS.); 11- Front Bridge Pendant Bracket
1- front wheel (from GAZ-69, 2 pcs.); 2 - radiator (from the Bulgarian car driver); 3- Engine 4-cylinder, diesel, with a capacity of 40 hp (from the Bulgarian car car); 4- clutch mechanism (from GAZ-52); 5 - transmission change box (from GAZ-53); 6 - manual brake; 7 - rear wheel (from GAZ-66, 2 pcs.); 8 - Snack for fastening the tillage tools (from the MTZ-80 tractor); 9 - Power takeoff shaft (from agricultural machinery); 10- Rear Axle (from the Bulgarian Autocar); 11-card shaft; 12 - transfer case Power take-off shaft (from GAZ-53); 13 - frame; 14 - Front Axle
1 - wheel hub (from GAZ-69, 2 pcs.); 2 - swivel fist (from GAZ-69, 2 pcs.); 3 - sleeve swivel fist (pipe Ø77); 4 - Bridge beam (Pipes Ø77 and Ø70)
1 steering wheel (from combine KSK-100A); 2 - dispenser (from the KSK-100Agan combine); 3 - high pressure hoses (from agricultural machinery); 4 - hydraulic cylinder; 5 - NSh-10 pump; 6 - Oil tank (receiver from T-150 tractor trolley)
1- hinge steering thrust (2 pcs.); 2 - tie Rod (2 pcs.); 3 - locknight M18x1.5 (2 pcs.); 4 - rod (steel, circle 28, 2 pcs.); 5 - a glass (steel, circle 70, 2pcs.); 6 - threaded fitting (G 1/2 ", 2 pcs.); 7 - cylinder housing (60 × 5 pipe); 8 - piston (steel, circle 50); 9 - bracket (steel, sheet S5); 10 - Cuffs with spring rings
The double-sided cylinder of the steering mechanism produced from a conventional hydraulic cylinder from agricultural machinery. The hydraulic cylinder disassembled, a deaf flange cut off and overtakes the thread here under the same glass as on the other end of the cylinder. Here, near the threads in the wall embedded another fitting for the hose. The piston left unchanged, only one of the cuff turned over. The rod has a little rooted, and to the piston, on the other hand, it was connected by the threaded hole another one - homemade. In the free ends of the rods, the tips of the steering pull from GAZ-69 fastened. The cylinder assembled on front bridge Two bolts M12.
On the tractor there is still a separate hydraulic systemto which the power cylinder of the rear suspension of the management of work (lifting - lowering) of agricultural tools is connected. Its operation provides the NSH-32 pump, which is also installed on the engine. Power cylinder hits (like the sample itself) - from the MTZ-80 tractor.
The expansion oil tank is 10 liters made from the receiver T-150 dump truck receiver.
The tractor cabin is solid (the top is not removable), with a large glazing area, wide side windows with top hide open outward. The door is one - on the left side.
The frame of the cabin is welded from square pipes (20 × 20 mm and 40 × 40 mm) and rectangular (40 × 20 mm) section. Door and other side wall are covered with a steel sheet with a thickness of 2 mm. Cab roof, like wings (front and rear), deployed from a solid 3-mm steel sheet. On the rear wings for rigidity made by flap, and an arc from the longitudinal halves of the semi-leaf tube is made to the front. The frame of the hood is welded from angle of 35 × 35 mm and trimmed with a profile steel sheet with a thickness of 2 mm. Two headlights from Moskvich-2140 mounted to the front panel of the hood. Rear signal lights - from T-150 tractor, front - from GAZ-52. In front of the cabin is covered noise insulating material, And the roof is the leatherette with a lining of thermal insulation.
Cabin equipment usual. Homemade seat, the ST-90 battery and tool box are placed under it. The instrument panel is equipped with an ammeter, oil pressure sensors and coolant temperatures. The electrical wiring of the tractor homemade, its scheme is used from the T-40 tractor. Transmission controls: Speed \u200b\u200bswitching handle, clutch shutdown mechanism, gas control drive from GAZ-52 car.
The cabin is equipped with a heating system with a stove from the DT-75 tractor, and the wiper from the T-80 tractor. There is a radio receiver "Ural-Auto".
Working brakes in a hydraulic tractor with a drive only on rear wheels. Manual brake - mechanical, its disk stands on cardan shaft and made in the form of a flange fork cardanian hinge major transfer.
Tractor's transport speed - up to 37 km / h, and working - 2 km / h.
The tractor in the technical supercharger organs is registered without any problems and received a state license plate.
M. Simonov, p. Soundstenki, Saratov region
If you have a trailer for the motoblock, it means you can save on the carriage of goods. Typically, the design of trailers for the motoblock involves independent operation of the wheel of the trailer and the motoblock to which it is attached. This is useful when you work with cargo in rural areas.
How to make brakes on the trailer to the motoblock
Everyone who did homemade trailer After the first trip, the question is asked: how to make brakes on the trailer to the motoblock, because it is not possible to slow down from the mountain, and you risk getting into an accident.
If you wanted to put on your purchased brake trailer, or want to equip a homemade trolley, keep in mind that the brake system is an aggregate organ that is almost always removed from a passenger car And remake a little for new needs.
Brakes brakes - Returns. If you listen to mechanics, you can hear about parking brakes that poorly brake the trailer when it is loaded, especially if you put it on the slope. Why do we need brakes that stop the trailer only when it is empty?
You can put tape brakes on the trailer, but they are practically useless and do not fulfill their function.
I know one successful case when a man attached his trailer for the brake motoblock. But only he made them on one wheel. Well, if you have an old motorcycle. Remove from it brake pads and drum.
You will also need a motorcycle wheel. Throw the knit from the wheel, get rid of the rim. You need a metal drum. Remove from disk traction and cable. Make a groove (if you can not. Give the drive to a familiar to the turner).
When working with a disc will be ready, proceed to assembling the brakes for a motor-block trailer. Dress the drum on the hub. Secure it from behind, wrap a thick wire of the drum between his ribs.
The metal disk, over which he conducted a dice, sit on the axis and fix it with a sleeve. In order for the disc to be rotated, take the welding machine and breed the pipe cutting to it. In order to control the brake system, make the lever and pull the cable to it. In principle, it's all.
Brakes on the trailer to the motoroblock do it yourself
So, we have already said that in order to equip the trailer for a motoblock most often use parking brakes on the trailer to the motoroblock. With the help of them, you can leave a trailer with a motoblock stand for a long time, put under a slope, or stop while driving. In general, everything is almost the same as we used this braking system in the car.
The only difference is that in the car it acts as a spare due to its primitive work and the device. Such brakes are activated using a manual or foot control from the driver using the pedal, or with the lever.
Parking brakes consist of a mechanical brake drive and brake mechanism. The operator when interacting with the lever or pedal, starts the mechanical drive and transmits an action on the braking mechanism.
The action from the lever to the brake mechanisms is transmitted through the cables. There may be three of them. One, front, connected to the lever, and the two rear - with the wheels of our trailer. The lever activates the front cable, which pulls the other two. Such interaction is ensured due to the equalizer. Cables are attached to the lever and wheels.
It is very good that in such a braking system there is an adjusting nut, with which you can easily change the length of the mechanical drive. It is useful when you removed the brakes from the old gas and decided to rearrange on the trailer for the motor-block, if shorter or longer. In addition, you can always have new cables - there would be a desire.
To remove the trailer from the brake, you just need to move the lever to the opposite position. To do this, in the design of the parking brake, a return spring was invented, which can be attached to the front cable, to brake mechanism, or be on the equalizer.
Figure scheme brake systemwhich you can see below
1 - handle; 2 - brake control lever; 3 - bracket; 4 - mechanical drive lever; 5 - guide cable; 6 - Returning spring; 7 - Eccentric adjustment; 8 - bracket; 9 - rear cable; 10 - equalizer; 11 - cable equalizer; 12 - brake lever; 13 - Switch control lamp (Such a part is needed rather in cars, if you alter the brakes under the trailer, it will not be needed for you).
Homemade brakes on the trailer for Motoblock: drawings, schemes
In fact, you do not need drawings of how to redo the finished brakes from the car for the trailer to the motoblock, or from several parts to collect entire brakes, as we described earlier. The meaning of the drawings is to master the idea of \u200b\u200bthe proportions of the entire product.
In the description, how to make self brakes to a trailer for a motoblock, you will rather be a brake device diagram. As an addition to the foregoing and scheme parking brakesWe provide you with an additional scheme of parking brakes for trailer with a control pedal.
1 - axis; 2 - footboard; 3 - brake pedal; 4 - shock absorber in the form of a rubber ring; 5 - drawn; 6 - Returning spring; 7 - pedal lever; 8 - Bracket connecting the main brake cylinder.
How to make brakes on a trailer for a motoblock: video
In order for you to be clearer what we looked above, we suggest you watch video from homemade brakes On the trailer to the motoroblock.
