Engine oil change methods. How to properly change the oil in the engine What is oil change

To keep your vehicle on the run longer, it needs to be serviced regularly. And one of the main procedures for such maintenance is changing the oil in the vehicle engine. Let's try to figure out what it is for, how often to produce it, and what methods of replacing fuel and lubricants exist.

No matter how trite the issue of changing the engine oil may sound, a good third of newbie motorists find it difficult. Let's try to figure out why the engine oil is being changed.

Engine oil

The main function that any motor fluid performs is, of course, to protect the operating mechanisms from premature wear. By enveloping the entire surface of the parts involved, the oil reduces the frictional force between them. This function allows you to increase the resource of the motor and extend its service life.

Daily use of the vehicle causes constant temperature fluctuations inside the engine system. The oil “softens” this effect, preventing the working mechanisms from overheating or freezing, but it itself loses its properties over time. The fluid begins to lose viscosity, its structure deteriorates, soot and soot formed during engine operation contaminate its composition. As a result, fuel and lubricants no longer help the car, but, on the contrary, slowly puts it out of action. Old oil will not be able to provide the proper level of anti-corrosion and wear-resistant protection, in addition, a large content of dirt and deposits on the engine mechanisms will simply make it difficult for them to work. That is why it is so important to change the motor fluid on time.

Untimely oil change: is it dangerous?

A single violation of the engine oil change interval (within reasonable limits) can go unnoticed by the car. But this does not mean that the subsequent repetition of the situation will not lead to serious results. In most cases, non-observance of the interval between changes of oil fluids causes:

• the formation of a large amount of pollution and deposits. The aging components of the oil fluid gradually begin to deteriorate and leave behind unprocessed combustion products. As a result, the engine loses its former power, and the content of harmful impurities in the exhaust gases increases.
• wear of parts. Over time, the oil loses its viscosity and begins to flow out of the engine through gaskets and seals. "Defenseless" parts of the operating unit begin to rub against each other with great force, increase the temperature inside the working area and deform all adjacent structural elements.

On a note! Some categories of oils do not lose, but, on the contrary, increase their viscosity over time. This fact is explained by the excessive oxidation process and the violation of the polymerization of the additives, due to the incorrect selection of the motor oil. High density can significantly impede starting the engine, impede effective oil circulation, and also lead to failure of the entire propulsion system.

• failure of the turbocharger (if any) and the rotor. Oil that has worked out its life has a detrimental effect on the condition of the compressor shaft and bearings. During long-term operation in "uncomfortable conditions", strong scratches and cracks appear on them, which significantly reduces their resource. Also, a liquid containing a large amount of harmful impurities and deposits clogs the lubrication channels of the compressor unit, as a result of which it may jam.

The problems described above are not a complete list of possible problems with obsolete oil. All cases are individual, but they have one main similarity - an untimely oil change is fraught with expensive repairs.

Is it necessary to change the oil filter?

Why do we need an oil change in the engine sorted out, but why should it be accompanied by a filter change? At first glance, it might seem that this whim is nothing more than a marketing solution to generate more revenue. But this is not the case.

Correct engine oil change involves changing the filter. The engine is the center of the car, its heart. It is subject to serious overloads, without which the "vital activity" of the car is simply impossible. At the time of temperature “jumps”, a small amount of soot forms on the engine, which can cause serious repairs. The oil removes this soot, protecting the engine from contamination. But where does this dirt settle? In the filter.

The oil pumped through the filter is cleaned and again taken for "cleaning" carbon deposits. But if the oil filter has served its life and is heavily contaminated, then harmful impurities cease to settle in the safe area, but accumulate in the lubricating film itself. As a result, the oil quickly becomes obsolete, and the motor system wears out quickly.

It is impossible to check the condition of the old filter, and its contamination can only be assessed after removal. Even if its visual inspection gives reason to believe that it is in working order, it cannot be put back. Let's imagine for a second that you decided to give the filter a second chance and screw it back in. Having clogged, suppose, after a couple of thousand kilometers (you will not know about this), the filter will stop collecting dirt, and will begin to deteriorate the freshly filled oil. As a result, the beneficial properties of an expensive lubricant will instantly evaporate, giving way to serious engine malfunctions.

Based on the above facts, the answer to the question posed becomes obvious: the filter must be changed every time the oil is changed.

Engine fluid change frequency

Checking the oil level

It is impossible to say how often the engine oil is changed. Engine oil change intervals are unique for each vehicle. And it is installed by the vehicle manufacturers. Engine oil change intervals are determined not only on the basis of mileage, but also on a time scale.

Take highway and city driving, for example. It will be wrong to be guided only by the mileage: you will "roll" along the highway - 10-15 thousand km in a shorter period than driving the same distance in urban traffic jams. The timeline allows you to prevent oil aging and make it timely to change.

By the way, it is worth noting that the more often you pour new lubricant under the hood, the better the car “feels”. Unfortunately, due to the costly procedure, not all motorists can afford it. Make it a rule for yourself to change your fluid at least once a year.

Important! If you use a car every day, do not skimp on its maintenance and strictly follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

Many motorists are mistaken, thinking that if the car has not been used for a long time, then an oil change is not needed. Even if your vehicle has stood all winter in the garage with new (as you thought) oil under the hood, you will have to change it. The fact is that if the engine does not start for a long time, condensation forms in it, which, getting into the working mixture, increases the acidity of the environment. Such measures contribute to the rapid destruction of structural elements.

You can think about changing the oil even after buying a used car. Sellers will most likely claim to have performed maintenance on the engine “literally last week,” but there is no need to risk it. After draining the old fluid, be sure to flush the entire system. It will not be superfluous to ask the past owner about the company and the marking of the oil that was poured under the hood before you.

What factors affect the frequency of replacement?

The engine oil change interval directly depends on the following factors:

• condition of the car. Has your car rolled off the assembly line recently and is in the running-in phase? This means that its first replacement will be made within the time specified by the manufacturer. Those. about 3-5 thousand kilometers. Before the first maintenance, you should refrain from aggressive driving style (sudden starts, braking, excessive pressing on the gas pedal). All that a car needs during the break-in period is gentle gear shifting, smooth pedaling and a complete rejection of sporty driving.
• driving style. By "squeezing" all the power that it is capable of from the car, you are squeezing all the useful properties out of the oil that circulates inside the engine at a breakneck speed. The sharper and sharper your driving manners, the faster the fuel and lubricants resource decreases. Those. lovers of "hot start" will have to change the engine oil more often. Otherwise, they risk being left "without wheels."

• fuel quality. The condition of the oil also depends on the quality of gasoline or diesel that is poured into the fuel tank. A low-quality mixture does not burn out well, leaving behind a large amount of deposits, which eventually mix with the lubricating fluid and clog the engine. Filling with cheap fuel at questionable gas stations is prohibited.
• the chemical basis of the liquid. The frequency of oil changes also depends on its chemical base. Low-quality mineral water needs to be replaced every 5-7 thousand kilometers, semi-synthetics must be renewed every 8-9 thousand kilometers, synthetics - 10-15. Such a framework is established by manufacturers not in order to provide themselves with guaranteed revenue, but in order to preserve the performance of the entire propulsion system. The more natural ingredients in the oil (as, for example, in mineral water), the faster they lose their consumer properties.
• seasonality. If you are a supporter of seasonal oils, then you need to monitor their change with special care, because you will not be able to ride on summer grease in harsh low-temperature conditions (the engine simply cannot start).
• manufacturer's recommendations. You should not neglect the requirements of the vehicle manufacturer, because the oil change interval specified in the service book was not set at random, but was calculated based on the results of multi-stage tests.

Engine oil change procedure

With the theoretical side of the issue, everything is clear, so let's move on to the practical. The procedure itself is not complicated, the main thing is to be patient and have all the necessary tools.

If your goal is to quickly change the oil in the engine without flushing, then you should be guided by the following sequence of actions:

• We place the car on a flat surface, providing unhindered access to its lower part. The ideal option is a garage with a pit. If there is no such garage, an overpass or a room equipped with lifting mechanisms will do.

Important! The operating temperature must be maintained in the vehicle engine. Those. it is better to drive the vehicle around the city for 30-40 minutes beforehand.

• Preparing a container for draining. An old bucket can play its role. It is also recommended to prepare a canister, where the waste liquid will be poured in the future for disposal.
• Remove the engine protection (if any). It is attached with 3-4 bolts.
• We unscrew the oil filler cap, filter and remove the drain plug at the bottom of the vehicle. It is advisable to use a special wrench with a chain to remove and install the oil filter.

On a note! On some plugs, an additional O-ring is installed, which is recommended to be changed every time the engine oil is changed.

• After the drain cap is removed, wait for all the old grease to drain out. By its condition, you can understand how dirty your engine is and whether it is advisable to change the lubricant.

• Once all the engine oil has drained, we start installing a new filter. Before screwing it in, it is recommended to lubricate its O-ring. Such manipulation will ensure maximum contact of the filter with the motor system at the point of its connection.
• We close the drain plug.
• Pour fresh grease into the neck. How much oil you need is hard to say. The amount required for the system is individual for each vehicle. Most often, it ranges from 3 to 5 liters. But you cannot pour liquid, so constantly check its level with an oil dipstick. The oil should be between the min and max marks. It is not necessary to immediately pour the required amount of oil into the engine: first reach the min mark, then leave the car alone for 10-15 minutes. During this time, the protective film will be distributed over the working surface and will take its usual place. After this procedure, add the required amount of fluid, checking its level with a dipstick.
• Screw on the filler cap and start the engine. The first few seconds of engine operation, the oil pressure light on the dashboard will be on, but then, when the oil pump is fully operational, it will turn off. While the car is idling, carefully inspect the filter and plug locations for leaks. If all is well, then you can go to the road. After a couple of tens of kilometers, it is recommended to look under the vehicle again and make sure that the structure is tight.

Express replacement of engine oil in the engine

If you don't like the traditional oil change method, you can use another method. It is called an express engine oil change. Its essence lies in the use of a self-contained oil pump that pumps out liquid through the dipstick hole.

Most often, service stations use this method. The main difference between hand-held devices and professional ones is the volume of pumped liquid. Manual devices, as a rule, have a small volume and are designed for one procedure, professional containers hold up to 45 liters and allow 10-12 procedures.

Self-oil change in the engine using self-contained equipment has the following advantages:

• saving time,
• no need to climb under the car,
• ease of procedure.

Disadvantages:

• a high risk of breaking the tube inside the motor,
• impossibility of complete pumping out of the oil liquid.

Traditional draining of the liquid allows you to remove it in full, while express replacement is not such an option.

Flushing the engine

It is recommended to flush the motor when it is planned to use products with other technical properties. In other words, if you decide to change the manufacturer, chemical base, or bought oil with a higher or lower viscosity, then you need to familiarize yourself with the flushing procedure.

It consists of the following steps:

1. unscrew the oil filler cap and remove the drain plug.
2. waiting for all the grease to pour out of the engine. We do not remove the filter, but put the plug back in its place.
3. pour flushing oil or solarium under the hood, as always, focusing on the level of the dipstick.
4. start the engine and wait 10-15 minutes. At the same time, it is impossible to gas: the flushing material, although it bears some resemblance to a conventional lubricant, cannot provide the mechanisms with the proper level of protection.
5. after the time has elapsed, we drain the liquid, change the filter and fill in the oil you already need.

Let's summarize

Maintenance of a diesel or gasoline engine requires special care from the car owner. If you follow the manufacturer's recommendations, change your engine oil regularly and avoid aggressive driving, your "iron horse" will not remain in debt. Only high-quality fuels and lubricants can increase the resource of a vehicle, therefore, when choosing mineral water, semi-synthetics or synthetics, do not focus on the price and do not look for benefits. The one-time savings can lead to costly repairs.

You will immediately spit, ostracize, curse and write a referral to a psychiatrist. Now say the opposite: I never put oil into the filter when changing. They will do the same to you, only, perhaps, the sequence will change. In a word, even here a lot of controversy arises, and of such intensity that the pre-election debates in America, against their background, seem like the fuss of kids in the sandbox. Therefore, we will present the point of view of professionals: how to change the oil correctly, not to ditch the engine, but along the way - to save on a visit to the service and have fun.

"That's right - don't change"

To deal with the question, I went to a good car service of the St. Petersburg branch of Largusservice. Of course, not only Largus are involved here, but also many other cars (although, of course, Largus, Logans and Sandero are in priority). Renault Sandero was standing on the lift, passing the next MOT. I asked the forehead question to the master: "How to properly replace the engine oil"? The answer is a smile. And the answer that one would expect from a serviceman is: “It’s right not to change it yourself. There is a service station for this ”. Of course, I chuckled internally (and maybe even externally) and asked: "Why is that?" After all, there is nothing complicated here!

Indeed, this work is not difficult. The overwhelming majority of motorists are quite capable of it. But there are also cases that seemed funny to me, but the owners of cars that they tried to service on their own are sad. I'll tell you a particularly creepy story. Even two.

Two creepy stories

A person bought a foreign car (I will not specify which one. Maybe it’s not even a foreign car at all?) It’s expensive to go to the dealer, but pride doesn’t allow it to go to the service. And the oil needs to be changed. Run ten thousand kilometers, it's time to roll up your sleeves. Theoretically - everything is simple, I merged the old - filled in the new.

In practice, the owner of the car still came to the service, only with another problem: the gearbox is buzzing. We listened, we were convinced - it was buzzing. The first step was to check the oil level in it. The checkpoint was "dry". The service asked: what did they do with the car? Nothing, the owner replies, just changed the engine oil. Myself. With your own hands. These same, guys, with golden hands.

Yeah, there is a clue. They began to check the oil in the engine. In general, the picture is clear: he unscrewed the drain plug from the crankcase of the box, and added oil to the engine. Three liters. Why check its level with a dipstick? That's right, don't! It says in the manual three liters - measured and poured. Bottom line: the box is empty, the engine has six liters of oil. The box was saved, the oil was poured, the rumble passed. And I was lucky with the engine, the oil seals were not squeezed out. We poured six liters of a cocktail from the old and new oil, poured in a new one.

Attention, the question: how can this be done if during the replacement process it was necessary to unscrew the filter (the oil would still have flowed out at least a little) and check the oil level at least twice on the dipstick? So I don’t know.

Well, and a much more prosaic picture. I have a friend who heard a knock in the engine a few kilometers after the replacement. He did everything right, but forgot to screw the drain plug and check the level after replacement. Here the cost of inattention turned out to be higher.

These are the consequences (frankly speaking - rare) can happen if you do not pay due attention to the operation. Therefore, the master from the service is right in something: if the impulsive nature does not allow you to approach work with due attention or you confuse the gearbox crankcase with the engine crankcase, then it is better to go to the service. Not convinced? Then we drove on.

Suck? Merge!

There are many ways to change the oil. For a long time, it has become a norm at many service stations to use vacuum installations for oil changes. This allows most of the oil to be sucked out through the dipstick hole. What is so good about it? Almost everything, but only for the owner of the service station: a lift or at least a pit is not needed, the crankcase protection often does not have to be removed (it all depends on the location of the oil filter), there is no need to fiddle with the drain plug, there is no need to wait until the oil drains completely.

Another thing is that this method cannot be called ideal for a car owner. The fact is that it will not be possible to completely drain the oil with such a device, the very "juice" will still remain in the sump, because the heaviest thing in the oil is collected there: metal dust, dirt and other bad things, which just need to get rid of in first of all. Before replacing in the service, check how the procedure takes place. They offer to suck the oil out - do not agree. Yes, this is usually faster and cheaper, but the effectiveness of this approach is not the best.

However, we are going to change the oil with our own hands.
Then let's get started.

Preparation

It is better to drain old oil on a warm (but not hot) engine: it will be thinner and will merge faster. Therefore, we believe that our engine is warmed up, and everything necessary for replacement is already at the ready. Not yet? Is there just a canister of fresh oil and a filter? This is not enough.

First of all, let's think about how we will unscrew the crankcase protection (if necessary on a particular car) and the drain plug. If for the first, as a rule, a wrench is enough (for 13, 14, 15, 17 - you will need to find out about this in advance), then you will have to solve two questions at once with the cork. The first is how to twist it.

On most machines, it is just a boring wrench bolt. But it is likely that your car has prepared a surprise in the form of a hexagon plug (it is not known what size, by the way). The luckiest ones get the jackpot in the form of a star-torx. If the plans for the future include constant self-replacement, then such a key, or better just a set, will have to be bought.

Firstly, you will not be removed from your friends on social networks by a friend from whom you constantly ask for these keys, and secondly, it is likely that torcs will come in handy when replacing the air filter, and for some other routine maintenance work. One star in the car is nonsense (though if it's on the hood, then it's a Mercedes). If there is one asterisk, then there must be others somewhere.

Let's say you prepared the keys (hexagons or torx). They might even be the right size. Now is the time to think about where to drain your old oil.

Sly guys in spare parts stores offer for this unknown plastic trays for draining the oil. For fun, I drove in and looked: 850 rubles for six liters. But we, who value common sense, will not buy such things. The simplest and most obscenely worn-out device is an empty canister with one cut off wall. If there is no such useful thing at hand, then anything will do, at least a cut bottle from under drinking water. The main thing is not to pour oil on the ground. And without us, the ecology is so-so.

And the last thing to be ready is a new drain gasket. Most often it is just a washer, usually multilayer. You can, of course, tighten it with the old gasket, but this is a penny part, only Gogol's Plyushkin can save on it. However, among motorists there are convinced fighters for the old puck, they say, what will it be! Maybe religion does not allow them, some political convictions or economic reasons, but this gasket still needs to be changed. The service strongly advises to change it.

So everything is ready. Getting Started

Sandero, standing on the lift, has already been defended. And there is no point in describing how to shoot it: there are many options, it all depends on your car. Therefore, we simply put a container under the car for collecting old oil (in our case, however, there is a special installation for collecting oil, but this is an attribute of the service station, it is unlikely that it is often found on garage shelves) and carefully unscrew the drain plug. While the oil is draining, you can wash your hands and treat your burns.

Here it is, the first stumbling block from the forums of car owners: is it necessary to open the top of the oil filler cap before draining the oil? It is believed that without it, oil flows out faster. Here it is necessary to look at the following: will other work be done with the machine at this time? If you do not want to wait with folded hands, then while "working off" follows, you can replace the air filter or do some other work. In this case, it is better not to remove the cover: debris, dirt or just dust can get into the neck, and this is not so useful for the motor.

Because it is open, the oil will not flow much faster. It won't even flow faster. And if the plans for the day are limited only to changing the oil, then you can unscrew it, there are no fundamental differences. The main thing is that nothing superfluous gets into the neck.

At first, the oil pours out quite quickly, then the trickle dries up, and viscous drops remain (or not viscous, oil can be different). Of course, the more old oil leaks out, the better. There is no need to rush - you need to wait until everything that may flow out of the drain hole flows out. Therefore, we are patiently waiting and proceeding to remove the oil filter.

Ideally, it is unscrewed by hand. In practice, this does not always happen, so the filter sometimes needs to be unscrewed with something. There are several solutions.

Technically perfect - this is a puller for your specific car. It looks like a cup, the sides of which have protrusions that coincide with the recesses in the filter, and a head for a wrench. If the filter of your car has no edges, then a chain puller is suitable, which is used to grip the filter housing, and then unscrew it. But you should not immediately run to the store and enrich the manufacturers of these devices of varying degrees of reliability. There are other ways, a little more complicated (there is even a barbaric way!), But no less effective.

A method suitable for technical maniacs is a clamp with a bolt, under which a file is placed against the filter body (so that it does not slip). Sometimes a file can be used to unscrew the filter. The solution is suitable for vehicles whose filters are located in hard-to-reach places, as a rule - very close to the crankcase or block. In services, they don't do that: it is unprofessional, and there are usually removers for every taste.

The last way is for the followers of the cult of destruction. It is simple, but unaesthetic: the filter is removed with a screwdriver. How? You just need to drive it with all force into the side of the old filter, then turn it by the handle of the screwdriver. The method is effective, albeit wild. It is important not to miss here, so as not to pierce any innocent pipe with a screwdriver.

So, the oil was drained and the old filter was removed. But it is too early to fill in new oil.

First, do not forget to tighten the drain plug. It is not necessary to apply too much force, otherwise at one fine moment it can tear off the "head" in attempts to turn it off for the next MOT. We put a new washer-gasket, tighten (not with all our might), rejoice. Now we put on a new filter.

To pour or not to pour?

So, should you add oil to the new filter?

If you are not the owner of old Zhiguli (or similar products of the Soviet-Russian automobile industry of the past), then you do not need to pour oil into the filter. Moreover, in many cars, the filters are at such an angle that the oil poured into the filter will simply spill out.

This procedure is a "hello" from the distant past, when oil pumps were not the most efficient, and almost all oil was mineral. In this case, the oil pump could not cope with pumping the filter. There is no need to fill the filter with oil now. But it will not be a mistake if you still fill in the oil: it is just a waste of time. The oil will end up in the filter anyway.

Another thing is to grease the gum of the adjacent filter surface with oil. This must be done so that later you can easily unscrew it. It is better to twist the filter by hand, but if there is very little strength, you can use any tool (just not a screwdriver in the side!) In any case, excessive application of forces is not required.

Everything is now ready to fill in fresh oil. The specialist used a container with a hose. Firstly, it will turn out neatly, and secondly, the oil producers did not pay us to show us a photo of the canister. If you do not have such a capacity (and you certainly do not), then it is enough to take a funnel.

If the crankcase volume is 4.0 liters exactly, then you do not need to pour 4 liters at once. Firstly, it is impossible to drain absolutely all the oil - something must have remained at the bottom. Secondly, it will be quite difficult to pump out the overflowed oil. Therefore, fill in a little less and let the oil drain. Again, be patient.

Before pouring oil on the upper mark of the dipstick, it is worth asking: does your engine like this amount of oil? For example, Subaru

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2 / 2

Now you can wipe your sweaty forehead, and at work tell the peasants that I, they say, changed the oil on the weekend. Let the little hands know who they are dealing with.

For help in preparing the material, we express our gratitude to the Largusservice car service (St. Petersburg, Volkovka embankment, 7, BC Ivolga)

In any car engine, several working fluids are used that perform specific tasks. One of these liquids is oil.

Lubrication performs several functions in the power plant:

1. reduces friction between engine components;
2. removes heat from them;
3. and also washes parts of the engine, due to which it removes debris and wear products from the working surfaces, on which the engine resource directly depends.

Oil is a fairly complex liquid, consisting of a mineral or synthetic base, their mixtures (so-called semi-synthetic oils), as well as a package of additives that give the lubricant certain properties.

During operation, the oil gradually develops a resource and loses its properties. And since this fluid plays an important role, periodic replacement is required.

Official dealers carrying out maintenance under warranty carry out an oil change at each maintenance prescribed in the regulations.

But not all cars are serviced at official service stations, so car owners have to independently monitor the condition of the engine and change the oil after a certain period of car operation.

Oil change intervals

The frequency of oil change is indicated in the accompanying tech. documentation for the car. The lubricant recommended for use is also indicated there.

The service life of the oil depends on the composition and characteristics of car operation. So, mineral oil can work up to 10 thousand km, and then it must be replaced. But this type of oil is practically not used; either semi-synthetic or synthetic oil is poured into the car. These types of oils can already work up to 15 thousand km.

But there is one important feature. A large mileage when changing the oil is possible if the machine is operated in "greenhouse" conditions. That is, the working conditions of the lubricant should be almost ideal, which in reality is very rare. Temperature extremes, increased loads, driving without warm-up, idle time in traffic jams affect the lubricant, due to which the service life is reduced. Under normal operating conditions, the oil in the engine should be changed after 10-12 thousand km, but if the car is subjected to severe operating conditions, then the frequency is reduced to 5-7 thousand km.

If the oil is not changed, then it will gradually lose its qualities - the lubrication of the rubbing surfaces will be insufficient, which will lead to rapid wear of the units.

What work will be required?

Changing the engine oil is one of the most frequently performed engine maintenance operations. It is not difficult, you can do it yourself even for a novice car owner. To complete it, not so much is required:

• open-end wrenches;
• a special wrench for unscrewing the oil filter;
• container for collecting mining;
• new oil;
• oil filter;
• funnel (cut off the neck of a plastic bottle);
• rags.

When switching to another type of lubricant, it is recommended to additionally flush the engine. Also, this operation is done when the oil is changed for the first time on a machine purchased from the hands, because it is not known for certain which oil the previous owner used.

Therefore, we will consider how to change the oil using the example of the Chevrolet Lanos.

Step-by-step instruction

Having prepared the necessary tools and devices, you can get to work. For this:

1. We warm up the engine to the optimum temperature for 10 minutes. You can also change the oil immediately after a ride, but it takes time for the engine to cool down, otherwise you may get burned. It is imperative to warm up the machine so that the oil “lifts up” all the settled contaminants and also becomes more liquid.

2. We install the car on the inspection pit to get to the traffic jam easier. You can, of course, do without a pit, but access to the drain plug will not be very convenient.

3. Remove the oil filler cap. This will allow the lubricant to drain off more quickly. If this is not done, oil will flow out slowly, since a vacuum will form inside the motor, since air will not penetrate into the motor.

4. Wipe the drain plug and the adjacent surfaces of the pallet with a rag.

5. We take a container for collecting waste (it can be an old oil canister with a cut out sidewall) and place it under the drain plug.

6. Using a wrench, tear off the drain plug (clockwise). After breaking off, the plug can be easily unscrewed even by hand. Unscrewing, we hold it, because when completely unscrewing, the pressure of the oil can knock it out of the hand, then you will have to "catch" it from the working off.

7. Leave the oil to drain and go to the engine compartment. We tear off and change the oil filter with a special key.

8. If there is no such key, you can punch through the filter housing with a screwdriver, push it all the way in, and then use the screwdriver as a lever. You also need to unscrew the filter clockwise. The oil filter is located either on the front or on the rear wall of the cylinder block.

9. Take a new filter element and lubricate the O-ring of the filter with clean oil.

10. Reinstall the filter and tighten it. A wrench is not needed for this; hand force is sufficient for tightening.

11. After replacing and installing the filter, see if oil is leaking. If it continues to drain, wait until this process stops. We change the sealing gasket on the drain plug (if required) and put it in place. The force for tightening the plug should be medium. It is not necessary to tighten too much, otherwise the threads may be ripped off.

12. After draining, proceed to pouring.

In those. the documentation, we find out the amount of oil that should be in the engine. For example, it is indicated that 4.7 liters are poured into the engine. Knowing this, we carry out the filling, and we do it in several stages. First, through a funnel installed in the oil filler neck, fill in about 3.5 liters.

We wait for the oil to completely sink into the pan, then check the level with a dipstick. If there is not enough oil, then add another 0.5 liters, wait and check the level. Usually, a little less lubricant will enter the engine than indicated in the documentation, because all the oil from the engine will not drain, some of it will remain. It is important to ensure that the oil level is located between the "Min" and "Max" marks on the dipstick, it can be closer to the "Max", but not reach it.

1. Fill in the lubricant completely, reinstall the filler cap and start the engine so that the oil flows through the channels of the system.
2. After the first ride after the change, check the level, and also inspect the plug and filter for leaks.
3. Now for one moment. If the oil is underfilled - it's okay, it can be brought to the level. But it so happens that it was poured, and its level is higher than "Max". The machine cannot be operated at this level, since this will lead to the extrusion of the crankshaft oil seals.

To restore the level within the required limits, use a conventional medical syringe (20 ml) and a dropper tube. We put this tube on the syringe. We lower the end of the dropper into the pan through the dipstick hole and pump out the oil. This operation is dreary, since the grease is pumped out slowly, and it may be necessary to pull out more than one syringe to achieve the required level. But there is no need to unscrew the plug, completely drain the oil and refill it.

How to change the oil with flushing the engine

As for replacing the lubricant with flushing the motor, it is carried out in about the same way as described, but in addition you will have to perform some actions. Also, for replacement, you will need a special flushing fluid.

If the oil is changed with flushing, then it is not necessary to immediately remove the used filter. After draining the mining, we put in place the drain plug, and the gasket on it does not need to be changed. Then we fill the engine with flushing fluid. The amount of oil required for flushing is usually indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

After refueling by flushing, start the engine and let it run for a while (5-15 minutes). We turn off the engine, take another container for collection and drain the flushing liquid from the installation (it is drained in the same way as mining).

And only after flushing, we change the filter and the plug gasket, fill in new oil, doing this as described above.

That's the whole sequence of changing the oil in the engine and the procedure is suitable for any car.

Video: Changing engine oil.

Seal

Every vehicle owner wants the operation to be accompanied by as few breakdowns as possible. The fulfillment of this condition is directly related to the care of the units and mechanisms of the unit. Therefore, the first thing a user encounters when purchasing a car is the periodic replacement of the engine oil in the engine.

Today, no one questions the need for the procedure. The only controversy around which is the nuances associated with the frequency and method of work, as well as with the characteristics of the materials used. So that the engine oil change is not perceived by the motorist as an insurmountable problem, we will try to figure out the details and prioritize the places.

Engine Oil Tasks

The design features and the principle of operation of the internal combustion engine lead to the fact that the parts of the unit constantly interact with each other, the process is accompanied by friction. The forces acting on the mechanism gradually wear out and render the motor unusable. In addition, a side effect of friction, strong heating of parts, which leads to a physical change in the properties of the materials that make up the engine, and also further aggravates the flow of working processes.

No combustion engine design is complete without lubrication. Oil is a consumable material for the mechanism. The fluid has a number of properties, the most important of which is viscosity, the material creates a surface film on the parts and protects the motor. If it were not for the lubrication mechanism, the engine would not be able to function and fulfill its intended purpose.

Oil functions:

• Formation of a surface protective film on the internal parts of the engine;
• Protection of the coated surfaces of the engine from oxidation;
• Removal of impurities and slag from the rubbing surfaces of the engine to the filter element;
• Removal of excess heat from the heated surfaces of the engine;
• Sealing of joints of engine parts and assemblies;
• Energy transmission and transformation.

In modern engines, the hydraulic valve compensator is the first mechanism to fail due to dirty oil. It is not necessary to talk about what role the part plays in the operation of the motor, nevertheless, oil is the main reason for the failure of the device.

The meaning and frequency of replacement

Before proceeding with the replacement processes, it is necessary to clearly define why this is being done. Given the functions performed by the oil, it is clear that the engine needs this fluid. However, microscopic particles that accumulate in the motor do not disappear anywhere. Over time, the filter element that traps dirt and deposits overflows. Particles are distributed throughout the lubrication system and act like an abrasive, leading to even more wear. For this reason, correct engine oil change implies observance of the frequency, the use of oil of the established standard, and also the replacement of the filter element.

The frequency of oil changes is directly related to the type and design of the power unit. The correct answer is given only by the manufacturer, for this, read the instructions for the product. According to the standard, the timing is set based on the vehicle's mileage. For most internal combustion engines, we are talking about 7000-10,000 kilometers.

It should be borne in mind that many factors affect the state of the lubricant. So, the oil change in a diesel engine is carried out earlier than in a gasoline unit. This is due to the design features of the motor, high thermal and power loads, and, as a result, early wear of the installation. In addition to the load, the speed limit, the type of oil used (the mineral base of the lubricant loses its properties faster than the synthetic base), climatic conditions, transportation of heavy loads and other parameters are taken into account.

Self replacement

Changing the engine oil is not a difficult process, if desired, each car owner will perform the procedure with his own hands, saving money on service. Provided that the deadline for the work has come, in the presence of time, place and additional equipment, the operation implies the following actions:

• Read the instructions for the engine, each motor model has its own sequence of operations. The need to use tools (pullers, screwdrivers, etc.), as well as various methods of fixing elements will affect the speed of the process.
• Prepare the tools and materials required for replacement (oil, filter, screwdrivers, waste container, napkins and other auxiliary equipment) depending on the model and design of the engine.
• Place the vehicle on a level surface in such a way to provide access to the sump. Better to use a flyover, a garage with a pit, a lift. If not, use a bump or jack up the vehicle by placing each wheel on a stable base.

• Warm up the engine to operating temperature before draining the oil. After warming up, unscrew the nut in the oil pan, open the oil filler cap and dismantle the filter element.
• Wait until the waste is drained into the prepared container.

• Determine the degree of engine wear by the consistency of the used oil, and also draw a conclusion about the performance of the type of oil.
• Based on the condition of the used oil, decide whether to use flushing or not.

• Install a new filter element, before fixing the part, lubricate the sealing gum with oil. This will keep the filter securely in place and help build up the necessary pressure in the system.

• Fill the system with fresh oil to the required level through the lubricant filler neck. Check the level with a dipstick, make sure that the oil does not go beyond the "minimum" and "maximum" marks.

• After filling with new fluid, start the car, check that the lubrication pressure light goes out. Then let the motor run for ten minutes, turn off and check the level again. Add oil if necessary. During this period, check for oil leaks from the seals.

• After the car has traveled twenty kilometers, check the leaks and oil level again. In case of any deficiencies, fix the problem.

Flushing the engine

Sometimes, during the oil change procedure, the vehicle owner decides to use an engine flush fluid. It is necessary to use such a tool carefully, having read the instructions and clearly making sure that there is no other way out. Violation of the rules for use and operation can lead to costly repairs to the unit.

• Purchase of a used car. The new owner is not sure what kind of oil was used for the engine and is afraid that the lubricant he purchased is not compatible with the substance previously filled.
• Changing from one type of oil to another, for example, after using a mineral oil, a synthetic agent will be added.
• Change of oil manufacturer. In this case, we are talking about the risk of incompatibility of the additive package in the fluids used.
• Operation in difficult conditions, non-observance of the regulations for work with the engine, contamination of the oil channels.
• Fuel or coolant contamination of the lubricant due to a malfunction of the motor.

The listed reasons, the reason for the use of flushing fluids, however, if there are no serious prerequisites for the use of substances, it is better not to risk it and confine yourself to a classic lubricant change.

The flushing procedure proceeds depending on which fluid option is selected:

• Flushing oil. Today, the wash group is rare. The application is reduced to draining the used oil, filling the flushing oil and operating the engine for two, three days in a gentle mode on this substance. Then the flush is drained and standard oil is filled.

• Additive to mining. The liquid is sold in the form of a 200-300 gram concentrate, which is added to the development of a diesel or gasoline engine before draining. Or in the form of flushing, which is poured after the waste has been drained. After getting into the engine, the unit is allowed to run for fifteen, twenty minutes, the mining is drained and fresh oil is poured.
• "Five minutes". The cleaner is presented in the form of a concentrate, which is poured before the waste is drained and the motor is allowed to run for five minutes. After that, the oil is drained, together with the cleaner, and fresh grease is poured in.

Considering that the composition of the cleaners includes a large amount of alkali, using flushes, be prepared for the consequences associated with the impact on the engine rubber products. Oil seals often suffer, the product hardens and cracks. In addition, a sharp impact on the accumulated deposits, tears them off and forces them to migrate through the lubrication system, clogging the oil receiver, filter, oil channels.

Alternative replacement methods

Obviously, changing the engine oil is not difficult. The only problem that the user faces when doing the work on his own is access to the engine compartment. We solve this issue, the car is installed on bars or bricks, fixed with a jack, the main thing is to provide an approach to the drain plug.

It should be noted that in addition to the traditional oil change by draining, there are other ways to service the car. For example, an express oil change in the engine. The principle is that the grease is not removed from the sump by draining, but is discharged from there through the dipstick hole. For self-replacement, use a syringe to pump out the oil. Before carrying out the procedure, the engine is warmed up, after which a tube is inserted into the hole and the oil is pumped out, creating a vacuum in the sump.

The replacement method is not effective, it is recommended to use it in case of emergency. Vacuum oil change in the engine does not provide complete cleaning of the installation from impurities and suspended matter, therefore, further operation of the unit is associated with the risk of failure of parts and mechanisms.

Today, at car service stations, there is an oil change service using special devices. This is the so-called hardware oil change in the engine. There are many conflicting opinions about this method. As a rule, motorists compare it to the garage method of extracting oil through a dipstick, but there is a difference.

When removing oil from the engine cavity by the hardware method, a special installation is used. The engine is warmed up to operating temperature. In the case when a syringe is used, the oil in the engine was changed through a dipstick, this method involves pumping out the liquid through the filler neck. A special tube is inserted, a pressure drop is created and the oil in full, together with impurities and dirt, is removed from the tank.

Nozzles, tubes, devices are provided. This gives a complete guarantee that any type of unit can be serviced. However, it is worth noting that some manufacturers' engines are not designed for hardware replacement (eg Subaru). For these motors, only the classic oil drain is prescribed in the operating instructions. That is why, before servicing the installation, check the technical documentation provided by the developer.

Note that the traditional method is a more correct and efficient replacement method. Application removes impurities in full. In the case of the hardware method, it is recommended to reduce the intervals between replacements, and to carry out the procedure more often. Some auto mechanics recommend alternating between the two for maximum optimization through the use of different technologies.

The engine oil must be changed on all vehicles, without exception, in accordance with the intervals specified by the vehicle manufacturer. Some car owners do it with their own hands, while others use the services of a service station. The first option is preferable because it makes it possible to significantly save money. However, before performing the appropriate procedure, it is necessary to decide on the answers to the following questions - when to change the engine oil, what filling volume to use, what oil to fill in the engine, how to replace the oil filter, whether it is necessary to flush the engine, and how to change the oil yourself. We will give detailed answers to all these questions, as well as provide you with the prices of the corresponding consumables and the final cost as of autumn 2017.

When to change engine oil

The presumptive answer to the question of when to change the engine oil is given by the manufacturer of your car in the manual for the car. On average, this gap for cars with a gasoline engine, is approximately 10 ... 15 thousand kilometers(although it sometimes comes up to 20-30 thousand). For most new cars, this procedure is performed at the first MOT, which coincides in mileage with the specified distance.

As for diesel engines, they are replaced more often. Approximately every 7 ... 8 thousand... This is due to the fact that diesel fuel (especially the one sold at gas stations in the post-Soviet space) does not differ in its quality, therefore, because of this, the engine and the oil in it deteriorate faster.

It is better to change the oil in the autumn, so that in winter in low temperatures the engine is as protected as possible.

Severe operating conditions significantly reduce engine life. The oil also loses its properties faster.

Severe operating conditions

What is the threat of oil change according to the regulations in harsh conditions

If the engine is operated under severe operating conditions, the oil in it wears out much faster. Accordingly, the situations described below should be avoided whenever possible. So, the harsh operating conditions of the machine mean:

1. Long driving at low speed in the hot season in city traffic, long downtime in traffic jams. At the same time, the engine cooling system often does not cope with its tasks, so the engine and oil in it overheat. The same reasoning is valid for prolonged engine idling, especially during hot periods. Therefore, try not to leave the car running on XX for a long time in the summer.
2. Engine operation at maximum permissible loads in continuous operation(for example, transporting or towing heavy loads, driving in mountainous areas, etc.). At the same time, a similar picture is observed - the engine and oil are experiencing significant temperature loads.
3. Rare short trips, especially in low temperatures... The fact is that in such situations, the oil simply does not have time to warm up in order to fully fulfill its lubricating and protective functions. This leads to additional engine wear. In addition, if the car is left in the garage for a long time during the cold season, condensation will form on the surface of the engine parts. When it mixes with the products of fuel combustion, it forms an acidic compound that negatively affects the engine from the inside.
4. Driving in dusty or very dirty air... This leads to the fact that the air filter is clogged, and less air passes through it than is necessary for the formation of a normal fuel mixture. Accordingly, it becomes enriched. And this is harmful to the engine, and, accordingly, the oil poured into it.
5. A similar situation occurs if clogged fuel filter... The only difference is that the fuel mixture will now be lean. But it is also bad for the engine.

Therefore, in order to extend the service life of the power unit, as well as the interval between oil changes, you should not operate the machine under the conditions described above, and even replace the fuel and air filters in time.

Refueling volumes

Many owners are interested in the question - how much oil is needed to replace the engine of his car. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give an unequivocal answer in this case, since each car model (and even each engine if the car is equipped with different motors) requires its own amount of lubrication.

Remember that you only need to measure the oil level when the engine is not running!

However, on average, the infographic looks like this:

1. Passenger cars with an engine capacity of 1.2 ... 1.8 liters... The volume of oil in this case will be from 3.5 to 4 liters... As mentioned above, you will find the exact data in the manual. If there is no reference literature, then experts recommend in this case to fill in about 3 liters, and then check the level with a dipstick. Top up some more if necessary. The main thing is that its level does not exceed the MAX mark on the dipstick.
2. As for cars with engine displacement from 2 to 2.4 liters, then the volume of the poured oil will be no more than 4.5 liters.
3. If you have a powerful car with a volume from 3 to 5 liters, then the amount of lubricant will be 5 ... 6.5 liters.

Remember to check the engine oil level regularly. This procedure should be performed once every one to two weeks, at least once a month. After all, if you miss the moment when the oil level drops critically, then you run the risk of facing expensive repairs caused by a critical lubrication level.

What kind of oil to fill in the engine

The next important question regarding replacement is what kind of oil to pour into the engine. The answer to it also depends only on the manufacturer's recommendations, respectively, you will find the exact information in the manual. The first thing to be aware of is that there are three types of oil -, and. Each of the listed types has its own characteristics, which you can read about at the links provided.

Nowadays, mineral oils are rarely used by anyone. The most common are semi-synthetic and fully synthetic compounds. They provide better engine protection, especially under severe operating conditions. There are several classifications of motor oils. However, the most common of them are two - by viscosity (SAE) and by API classification. Most often, the choice is based precisely on the viscosity, since this parameter is selected taking into account the climatic region of operation of the machine.

Let us briefly dwell on the interpretation of the designations of this standard. It looks like this - XW-Y, where X is the low temperature viscosity, and Y is the high temperature. Let us give the notation for the first indicator.

As for the high-temperature viscosity, the higher its value, the higher temperatures the composition can work. You can read more detailed information about this in the article on our website about the differences that are popular, as the most common in our country.

Remember that the choice of oil should always be based on the recommendations of the car manufacturer!

Also, when choosing, you need to consider API standard... Its designation begins with the letters S or C. The former are for gasoline engines, the latter for diesel engines. In addition, there are several more nuances:

1. EC abbreviation, which is located immediately after the API, stands for energy saving oils.
2. Roman numerals after this abbreviation one speaks of the level of fuel economy.
3. One of these letters is followed by performance level, indicated by letters from A (lowest level) to N and further (the higher the alphabetical order of the second letter in the designation, the higher the oil class).
4. Universal oil has letters of both categories through an oblique line (for example: API SL / CF, nowadays there are more and more such oils).
5. API labeling for diesel engines, they are divided into two-stroke (number 2 at the end) and 4-stroke (number 4, respectively).

According to the API standard for gasoline engines (letter S), the following classes are currently relevant.

As for diesel engines (letter C), the relevant classes for them are:

A few words about ACEA standard... It indicates the performance properties, purpose and category of engine oil. ACEA classes are also divided into diesel and gasoline. The latest edition of the standard provides for the division of oils into 3 categories and 12 classes:

1. A / B - gasoline and diesel engines of cars, vans, minibuses (A1 / B1 ... 12, A3 / B3 ... 12, A3 / B4 ... 12, A5 / B5 ... 12).
2. C - gasoline and diesel engines with an exhaust gas catalyst (C1 ... 12, C2 ... 12, C3 ... 12, C4 ... 12).
3. E - diesel engines of trucks (E4 ... 12, E6 ... 12, E7 ... 12, E9 ... 12).

Engine oils are also characterized by the so-called tolerances. It should be noted that the tolerances are indicated by car manufacturers, or rather engines for them, and not by oil manufacturers. The latter only adapt to the former. You will find exact information on the tolerances of the engine oil that can be used in the engine of your car in the service book or manual. As an example, we will give some of them with a short description.

• VW 500.00 is the designation for multigrade engine oils with SAE viscosity 5W- * and 10W- *, used only in gasoline engines. This is one of the older VAG approvals. This oil is permissible for use in engines of cars manufactured before August 1999. New tolerances have also been developed for the newer model range. Essentially the same as the ACEA A3-96.
• VW 501.01- also one of the "old" VAG approvals. Indicates engine oils suitable for VW gasoline and diesel engines (models manufactured no later than August 1999). Specification 501.01 is found on oils with viscosities 10w-40 and 15w-40. The tolerance is close to 500, but may be inferior in terms of fuel economy. Conforms to class ACEA A2 (accordingly, such oils can be used in machines for which ACEA A2 is prescribed). Please note that for turbodiesels, a 505.00 permit is also required.
• VW 502.00- oils exclusively for gasoline engines. First successor to VW 501.01 and VW 500.00 approvals. A noteworthy difference is that it is recommended for an engine operating in severe conditions, with increased loads. However, it is not recommended for vehicles with irregular and extended drain intervals. ACEA A3 compliant.
• VW 503.00- the so-called "Longlife" oils for gasoline engines produced since May 1999. An increased drain interval is allowed - up to 30,000 km or two years of operation (however, it is worth making an allowance for domestic "peculiarities" of operation). Specification 503.00 can be found on the labels of oils with a viscosity of 0W-30 and 5W-30. The tolerance completely exceeds the 502.00 tolerance requirement and meets all ACEA A1 requirements. Please note that it is FORBIDDEN to use such oils in earlier models, as low high-temperature viscosity can lead to engine damage and repair.
• VW 503.01- Longlife oils (mileage up to 30,000 km or two years of operation), specially developed for the heavily loaded engines Audi RS4, Audi TT, S3 and Audi A8 6.0 V12 (models with an output of more than 180 BHP, power taking into account transmission losses), Passat W8 and Phaeton W12. Replaced today with VW 504.00 approval.
• VW 504.00- came to replace the tolerances VW 503.00 and VW 503.01. In addition to all the above Longlife delights, 504.00 is suitable for engines that meet Euro 4 emission standards (in fact, it covers all previous petrol tolerances and can be used in all types of petrol engines).
• VW 505.00- tolerance for diesel engine oils (5W-50, 10W-50/60, 15W-40/50, 20W-40/50, 5W-30/40 SAE, 10W-30/40). Applicable for light diesel cars (turbocharged and non-turbocharged) - models no later than August 1999. Meets the requirements of ACEA B3.
• VW 505.01- special oils 5W-40 for engines with pump nozzles, V8 Common Rail systems of turbodiesel engines. The replacement interval is standard. Complies with class ACEA B4.
• VW 506.00- diesel Longlife oils 0W-30 - service interval up to 50,000 km or two years of operation (of course, within reasonable limits - see paragraph "VW 503.00"). Please note that it is not suitable for engines with unit injectors. Also remember that it is PROHIBITED to use such oils in earlier models, as low high-temperature viscosity can lead to engine damage and unplanned repairs.
• VW 506.01- Longlife oils (30 ... 50 thousand kilometers or two years of operation) for diesel engines with pump nozzles. ACEA B4 compliant.
• VW 507.00- Covers all previous diesel engine oil tolerances. It is a Longlife oil for almost all diesel engines, including Euro 4 engines with DPF. Please note that V10, R5 and truck and bus engines without DPF are an exception. For such engines, an oil complying with VW 506.01 is used.
• VW 508.00- these will most likely be low-ash oils with an extended drain interval with high energy-saving properties. To date, the VW 508.00 approval is only in development.

Replacing the oil filter

Every car owner should know that when changing the oil, the oil filter is always changed... This requirement applies to both gasoline and diesel engines. Otherwise, all the dirt and carbon deposits that are in the filter will quickly contaminate the new oil, and in fact the replacement procedure will be nullified.

Special pullers are used to unscrew the filters.

Remember that the pullers mentioned are only used to unscrew the filters. It is necessary to twist them only by hand(This is especially true for cars with gasoline engines). Another important point concerns the difference between filters for gasoline and diesel engines. The fact is that diesel oil works in more severe conditions. Accordingly, the filter is heavily loaded. If you do not delve into the details, then in general terms we can say that a filter from a diesel engine can be put on a gasoline one, but vice versa - it is impossible! In this case, of course, you need to take into account the filter model, their mounting dimensions, fastening, characteristics, and so on. You will find all this information in the manual. And it is best to use the theme filter recommended by the manufacturer your car.

A couple more tips regarding oil filter replacement:

1. When replacing, be sure to lubricate the O-ring with new oil. This will soften the rubber, reduce the pressure on it, and thus increase the life of the ring. And as mentioned above, it is necessary to tighten the filter only by hand, without using pullers!
2. Some auto mechanics recommend pouring some oil into the filter during the replacement process. There are many contradictions and opinions on this score. Omitting the details, let's just say that it is worth doing this if you change the oil in winter and / or the engine of your car is used in difficult (described above) conditions. Otherwise, this recommendation can be disregarded.

Flushing the engine

In some cases, car owners flush individual engine parts from oil carbon deposits on their surfaces. In particular, flushing is recommended in the following situations:

1. When changing from one brand of oil to another, and both depending on their types (mineral water, synthetics or semi-synthetics) and on their viscosity characteristics.
2. After buying a used car, because you do not know or are only informed by the seller about the brand of lubricant and the frequency of replacement. This means that you cannot be absolutely sure of the good condition of the car engine.
3. Under severe operating conditions to better wash away the remains of carbon deposits.
4. With a full engine bulkhead as a result of overhaul.

1. Manual cleaning on a disassembled engine.
2. Quite a popular method of pumping diesel fuel through the engine (this is how contract engines are cleaned).
3. Using flushing oil before refilling with new grease. It is a common mineral oil without additives and is often used when changing from one oil to another.
4. Five minute flush. The special agent is poured into the old oil before draining, after which it is "run" through the system for 5 minutes, then the slurry is drained. Remember this is the most aggressive flushing method!
5. Flushing with regular engine oil (cheapest). The point is to let the engine run for about 500 km, drain it and fill it with the one that is planned to be used on an ongoing basis. Although this flushing is gentle and does not harm the motor, the technique itself is expensive and largely pointless.

It is also recommended to perform flushing in the case. if you have used old oil much longer than the expected service life (for example, you simply forgot about the regulations). Or in the case when the oil has thickened and turned into a jelly-like mass.

How to change oil with your own hands

Typically, car dealers always advise buyers that oil changes must be carried out at a service center. Otherwise, the company guarantee will be canceled. Therefore, in the case of an oil change on a new car, the decision on where is the best to perform this procedure lies entirely with the car owner. As for cars that have driven over 30 thousand kilometers (after the second maintenance), the driver can change the oil himself. This will save you money. And the procedure itself is not something complicated.

What you need before replacing

Immediately before replacing, you will need not only new oil, but some other tools as well. Also take care of where you will be performing the procedure. So, for replacement, you need the following tools and materials:

1. New oil... Use a lubricant recommended by the manufacturer. We also think it will be useful for you to watch the video related to the question for a car.
2. New oil filter... You will find its brand in the manual for your car. Using original filters or their analogs is the choice of the car owner, and depends largely on the brand of the car and the cost of the filters.
3. Oil filter remover... Its type depends not only on the design of your car's engine, but also on how often you plan to use it. For example, an inexpensive stripper is also suitable for a private trader. If you work at a service station, then it is better to purchase high-quality universal pullers.
4. New sealing washer / ring... They are replaced depending on how worn out the old consumables. However, it is best to replace them. If the drain plug is damaged, it must be replaced as well.
5. Wrenches for unscrewing the drain plug... Its size and shape depend on the make and model of the machine.
6. Container for old oil... In this capacity, any medium-volume vessel is suitable (it depends on the volume of the engine, but it is better to take it with a margin). Also, please note that in the future, the vessel cannot be used for clean liquids, especially food products!
7. Drain funnel(optional). If the container has a thin neck, then you will need a funnel.
8. Rags and gloves... They are necessary in order, firstly, not to get your hands dirty (including to prevent the appearance of an unpleasant skin odor as a result of the procedure), and secondly, to remove possible dirt and / or oil drops that have fallen on adjacent surfaces.

The work must be carried out in a specially prepared place. It can be a viewing hole, an overpass, a small mound or hummock. The main thing is that the car owner has access to the oil drain cock, which, as a rule, is located at the bottom of the engine, under the bottom of the car. You can also use a jack to raise the vehicle.

The replacement process on most modern cars is performed according to the same algorithm. The differences are only in the location of individual parts, for example, the oil drain cock.

Remember that the change must be carried out at a low oil temperature! Ideally, you need to start a cold engine and let it run for 5 ... 10 minutes, depending on the ambient temperature. This is done to make the oil less viscous.

The procedure consists of the following steps:

1. Prepare your place of work... That is, go to the inspection pit, overpass, raise the car on a jack.
2. Keep yourself and your car safe... That is, reliably immobilize it by placing the car on the handbrake and insuring the wheels with wheel chocks.
3. Find a drain hole... To do this, you need to inspect the underside of the car. It is usually located at the bottom of the engine. Also evaluate and choose the right set of keys for unscrewing the plug.
4. Using a rag clean the surface near the drain plug, as well as the oil filter.
5. Place dishes to drain to the right place.
6. Unscrew the drain plug and oil filter... This must be done carefully and slowly so that the oil does not start to flow out in a powerful jet.
7. Wait until the oil is completely drained, screw on the drain plug and install a new filter element (do not forget to lubricate the new sealing rubber if you need to fill the filter with oil).
8. Fill in new oil into the filler neck of the engine in the required amount.
9. Check the level on the dipstick... It should be about ⅔ closer to the maximum mark.
10. Remove oil drips on the working surfaces of parts, if any.

As you can see, the procedure is simple, and even a novice car owner can handle it. The main thing, Observe safety regulations when working!

Express oil change

There are two main ways to change engine oil:

• traditional (the drain plug is unscrewed);
• express replacement (carried out at the service using a special vacuum apparatus).

Most experienced car owners are accustomed to changing the oil in the engine using the traditional method, getting under the car and unscrewing the drain plug in the crankcase. However, the design of the engines of the new machines is also designed for express replacement. What is this procedure?

Its algorithm involves the use of a special vacuum apparatus, with the help of which the used oil is sucked out of the engine through the hole of the dipstick for checking its level. The main advantages of express replacement are high speed and efficiency of replacement, as well as convenience (the driver does not need to climb under the car).

In the same way as in the usual way, with an express replacement, the engine must be warmed up to operating temperature, and then the hose of the vacuum apparatus is pushed into the hole of the oil dipstick as much as possible inward so that the end touches the bottom of the sump. The oil is then pumped out quickly. It begins to flow into the tank of the pumping unit due to the formation of reduced pressure (rarefaction).

Currently, many car owners are afraid of express replacements, because there is a myth that after the procedure is completed, a lot of old oil remains in the sump. However, it is not! As many tests have shown, even less of it remains there than after a traditional drain. The only drawback of a quick oil change is that the vacuum method does not completely get rid of metal dust and / or burnt residues that accumulate in the lower part of the sump during long-term operation. Therefore, express replacement is not recommended for systematic use or when flushing the engine. However, it saves a little time and money, because the cost of an express engine oil change is less. And besides, you do not have to change the drain bolt sealing washer, as it is recommended to do on some cars.

Engine Oil Change Cost

Many car owners are interested in the question - how much will it cost to change the oil in the service and with their own hands. In this section, we will try to answer it, and present for you the price of consumables and the work of service station employees as of autumn 2017.

Let's start with a simpler option - oil change in a car service... Let's clarify right away that the final value will depend on several factors - the model of the car, the brand and volume of oil used, the prices directly set by the owners of the service station. We give you the average prices for Moscow and the Moscow region.

Please note that some auto repair shops carry out an oil change free of charge, provided you purchase it locally.

Now let's consider a more complex option - DIY oil change... When calculating the final cost of the procedure, in this case, it is also necessary to take into account the model of the machine and the price of the oil used, but also add the cost of all used consumables to them. Here are the average prices for the fall of 2017:

Consumables and tools	Price, rubles
Motul Specific DEXOS2 5w30, Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 Liter Canister Part Number - 102898	3700
SHELL Helix HX8 5W / 30, synthetic engine oil, part number 4 liter can - 550040542	1500
Oil Lukoil Lux 5W40 SN / CF, synthetic engine oil, catalog number of the 4 liter canister - 207465	1300
MOBIL Ultra 10W-40, semi-synthetic oil, 4 liter canister number - 152197	950
ZIC A +, 5W30, semi-synthetic oil, 1 liter canister number - ZIC A 5W30	400
Castrol Magnatec SAE 10W 40, Semi Synthetic Oil, 4 Liter Canister Number - 156EB4	1200
Oil filter VAZ 2110-12, Granta, Kalina, 2108 JS Asakashi art. C0065, Car make: LADA, Manufacturer: JS Asakashi	160
Oil filter Ford Focus II, Bosch art. 0451103363. Car make: Ford, Manufacturer: Bosch	300
Oil filter RENAULT LOGAN / CLIO / MEGANE / LAGUNA, Car make: Renault, Manufacturer: Knecht	300
Oil filter Hyundai Accent, KIA Cee`d, Rio II Filtron, art. OE6742, Car make: Kia, Manufacturer: FILTRON	200
Oil filter / filter assy-oil NISSAN art. 1520865F0E, Car make: Nissan, Manufacturer: Nissan	350
Oil filter remover, crab type, has 3 pins.	600
Belt puller of the JTC 4736 oil filter. Type: belt; Gripping diameter: 60-260 mm.	1700
Oil filter remover belt grip - 55-100 mm AIRLINE art. ak-f-02	300
Oil filter remover FIT, chain. Article - 64791.	300

In one case or another, the car owner can use various consumables. This applies to both names and brands and models. Therefore, based on the information above, you can independently calculate the approximate cost of performing the procedure.

Outcomes

As you can see, changing the oil with your own hands is not a difficult task, and most, even inexperienced, car owners can handle it. However, it is necessary to take into account the nuances and follow the above algorithm of actions. And do not forget to choose those consumables (oil and filters) that are recommended by your car manufacturer.