Car corrosion. Tips to combat rust bodies do it yourself. Fighting the corrosion of the car with their own hands how to deal with corrosion

Many motorists after buying a new machine or car with mileage, second place after the protection of the vehicle from the hub occupies the issue of delivering the body from corrosion, although the new car has no rust, and the coating is clean.

The maintenance of the body of the body in one way or another is struck by the hearth corrosion and, often, it is impossible to completely get rid of rust. But still, its distribution must be stopped and trying to protect it as much as possible yet not yet affected by rust.

Bottom

Behind the body must be well followed, it needs to be soaked and polished. The bottom, even if it is processed by the most resistant to the negative effects of PVC plaseris, will not be able to resist the effects of abrasives, reagents and temperature drops. These factors slowly, but surely "eat" the factory coating.

Wings

This element of the body is the same unenviable as the bottom. In addition, the wings still have pockets in which water and dirt accumulate. Even at a completely new car you need to remove the wheels and see how high-quality wings are treated with bitumen mastic, especially near the headlights. People also work at the factory and they also sometimes allow a mistake, as a result of which the wing can be coated corrosion.

Thresholds

The thresholds are as very vulnerable, especially their internal cavities, central racks and spars. The strongest of them gets if drainage holes are crashed.

Anticorrosion Processing Tools

Additionally, the car anti-corrosion processing is possible. To do this, only the material and tool will be required to apply it. It is much more difficult on the old car, for a lot of time and effort will take surface preparation. So, not to postpone this work for later, and immediately engage in the processing of the car, preparing:

sandpaper;

tassel;

white Spirit;

corrosion converter;

rags.

Preparation

Before starting the anti-corrosion treatment, the owner of the car must remember that his work and money will be spent not wasted if it should prepare the surface. It should be well cleaned from dirt and worn coating and degreased. If the surface is clean, the mastic is reliably concluded with the metal.

The prepared surface is needed from the hose to be water. After the dirt is mad, it will be possible to see in what condition is a paint coating. The place in which it is already beginning to flap, we must clean the scraper and iron brush. After carrying out the draft work, the prepared surface must be cleaned with sandpaper, and the surface is to degrease the White spirit.

Treatment

There is an even effective method of anti-corrosion processing-Processing surface by the rust converter. This composition applied to a rust-processed surface will make its work very quickly. Redheads will sit down, and the rye will not be so harmful. Mastics and pastes can be applied with a tassel, a spatula or just hand. It is very important that there are no bare seats.

Although bituminous masts and perfectly oppose the effects of water and reagents, but they cannot effectively resist the sand, rubble and frost, on which the coating becomes very fragile, and begins to crumble.

Often for anti-corrosion protection of the bottom of the car and wings are used wax formulations that their advantages and disadvantages. The wax penetrates deeply under the coating and fills the cracks. However, he does not end the blows. Therefore, many motorists have become such a composition to apply over bituminous mastics.

As already mentioned, all elements with a box cross section are subject to rust, for in the cavities due to poor ventilation always raw. In places of welding, mud water seeps, and since it is not always possible to spend anti-corrosion processing in these places, it becomes clear why these places are most often covered with corrosion.

How can I make anti-corrosion processing?

Many car owners have no special equipment for anti-corrosion processing. But those who want to handle the body itself, it is recommended to use the experience of others. Equipment itself is not very complex and works it by spraying with a nozzle connected to a pistol. But you can use a pump or a spacing.

At the service station to which the anti-corrosion composition under the hood will be applied and in the trunk is watered. But since in the garage, as a rule, there are no conditions for drying, then these can be wired with a damp cloth. The body is more convenient to handle on the lift, since many processed points are on the bottom.

In order to get to the "Outstanding" niche and before the crossbar under the front chairs, you need to remove the plug corks that are under the front wing.

The bottom of the body, the wheeled arches and hidden cavities should be well washed and dried with compressed air. If the wheels are interfered, they must be removed by putting the car to the stand. Discs, brake drums, cardan, KP and rear axle can be closed with paper.

Chrome coating

If you carefully look at the bumper or caps of the wheels of the old car, then you can see corrosion on them. So, chrome is not so well protecting against rust. In fact, the weak place in chromium is a porous coating. Therefore, the details are first covered with copper and nickel, and then chromed. However, water, reagents and corrosion penetrate into the coating through the pores.

How to care for chrome coated?

Caring for chrome details involves two stages: car wash and rust removal. Since the chrome coating is very and very thin, then such details can not be wiped with a dry cloth, otherwise the coating is scratched and starts to collapse. After washing, the details need to dry well, and then process the cleaner of chrome details. But it is not necessary to get involved in such a composition, because there is an abrasive that can harm coatings.

In this article, we tell me how corrosion appears by car, how to deal with it and give advice to remove rust by car from personal experience.

Why does the car begins to rust?

Rust can only iron, which are oxidized after the metal connection with water. Metal corrosion is an electrochemical process, in which from the anode (its role is performed by the metal body) electrons are emissued and through the electrolyte (water with a slight adoption of salts) fall on the cathode (metal parts). As a result, the iron machine is converted to iron oxide - that is, rust.

If the nature of the "household" corrosion is electrochemical, then any chip paints to metal are potential locations of corrosion lesion. It is worth it to appear electrolyte in the form of water - and the rust will not make it wait.

Understanding the corrosion process gives tools to combat it. Because The body of the car is made of iron, then the anode and the cathode will always be found, but with electrolyte we must do something. By the way, it is because of the greater saturation of various salts of chemical reagents that use utility services in winter, the car and begins to rust intensively during this period.

Paths of combating corrosion

Humanity has invented barrier protection against corrosion, not allowing the physical contact of the metal with the external environment and the protector. Barrier protection is paint and varnish, everything that protects the surface from the atmosphere.

The principle of protective protection in another: the "sacrificial" metal must be oxidized - for example, zinc, which is with steel in direct contact. As a result of an electrochemical reaction corrodies zinc, not iron. Such a coating is effective even in the presence of defects, and the defense works the longer, the thickness of the zinc layer. We all know about good resistance to corrosion galvanized bodies, a bright example - Audi 100 cars, which even in 30 years are in good condition.

We will tell about the way to combat corrosion. The first way is passive. It is necessary to cover the metal of the body with an insulating coating - i.e. Protect and paint. This process is an effective way to prevent corrosion. But it is necessary to constantly monitor the integrity of the protective coating, check for small damage - cracks, blows and chips on the body.

Also, this path includes activities related to the purity of the machine - washing (every two weeks) and periodic treatment with wax - water flows faster from the coating.

The second way is called active - based on the use of various metal coatings. Mastics, sealants and anti-corrosion materials are used for this. Mostly drugs are used on the most corrosion areas of the machine - the bottom, thresholds, arches. Additional protection is effective only if applied to absolutely clean and dry surfaces, otherwise water can remain under the protection film, which will continue the corrosion process.

Third way - electrochemical. It is used less frequently due to the high cost and the need for constant nutrition of an installed electronic device. Due to the change in the electrode potential, the processes of corrosion in the car begin to pass only in a certain place. The cathode is not the car body, but a special electrode that rusts instead of it.

All the ways of protection of the car are perfectly complementary by each other, but sometimes the missing and the process of the appearance of rust appears in all the brow-red-red glory. Here you need to act quickly, because Run the corrosion process is simple, and get rid of much more difficult.

How to remove yourself?

First of all, you need to carefully remove rust. For this, a weak alkaline solution is used, which is processed by a damaged place, and then removed mechanically (skurt or metal brushes). Carefully follow the requirement of the instruction, because Acid is quite aggressive and corrosive rust from the inside. This process must be stopped on time.

Also effective converters or rust modifierswhich, as a result of a chemical reaction, convert iron oxide into the tannate of iron and are more stable substance. Qualitative modifiers contain polymers and act as a primer. Minus - if the metal oxide is not processed in the whole volume and remains, the corrosion process will continue.

In stores it is easy to find rust converters of various types. The cost is not high. The processing process is simple: first sand damaged to pure metal, then we apply the composition (you can taste) and leave to the shutter speed up to 12 hours depending on the instruction. Do not be afraid when the purified area becomes green, it works rust modifier.

Video. Remove the rods with cars

Further, everything is standard - the place from which rust (or transformed it) was removed, it is ground and painted. Actions are repeated if necessary. To prevent the appearance of rust on the car in the future, it is recommended to make anti-corrosion processing.

The body is the most expensive and represented part of the car. Many motorists choose the car precisely in its appearance, and not by speed or other indicators. Each car manufacturer applies its own methods of painting the machine and processing its body to maintain its original look as much as possible. But there is such a nuisance as a rust, which is subject to all cars without exception. If the body of the machine began to rust, you must urgently eliminate the "focus" of the problem, and you can do it with your own hands.

Because of what rust appears by car

When a rust appears on the car body, it instantly loses in the price, and even in the secondary market to sell the car with corrosion on the body will be very difficult. Professionals will always be able to determine whether the work on the body of the car to eliminate the manifestations of rust or not, that is why it is better not to bring it to such a situation.

In order for the car body metal, corrosion did not appear, it is necessary to take care of it:

Corrosion can be divided into two types, which differ in the degree of danger and reasons for the occurrence:

As part of this article, it will be considered how to deal with wet corrosion on the body of the car and eliminate rust independently.

Any car enthusiast knows that the rust on the car body is formed during damage to the paintwork, for example, after an accident. But in a relaxed situation, corrosion can manifest themselves on the metal, and most often it happens on the areas of the joints of the parts of the machine body, for example, near headlights, radiator lattice or moldings.

The process of the appearance of rust on the body of the car can be divided into three stages:

In order to avoid the destruction of the car's body as a result of the active action of rust, it is recommended to inspect the thresholds, wings, bottom and other elements of the machine for the appearance of signs of the first stage of corrosion on them weekly.

If during the inspection of the car, corrosive body damage was discovered, it is necessary to eliminate the problem as soon as possible. To remove rust by car, you will need to stock the following tools:

Depending on the corrosion stage, the set of necessary tools will vary.

When the necessary set of tools is prepared, you can move to the elimination of rust on the car body. This procedure is performed as follows:

As you can see, remove rust from the car yourself very simply, and with such a task, any car enthusiast will cope.

All metal rotting and rust. Including corrosion and car. Initially, the process is invisible until the body covers with holes and cracks. Many motorists think: how to deal with corrosion only after the process becomes a noticeable "naked eye."

The main impact on corrosion has a condition for storing and maintaining cars. Rust intensively affects the car when it stands. While in motion, it is blown by the oncoming air streams and is less corrosion.

Video about how to deal with corrosion?

Three ways

There are three fundamental approach to combating corrosion - passive, active and converting. With a passive approach, isolate metal from environmental exposure. The active method provides for the application of various protective equipment on the body and the bottom of the car, as well as on the sites that are most susceptible to corrosion. The conversion method of the oxidic metal is converted to the primer, resistant to moisture and air.

Currently, there are masses in the market, protecting the bottom from the effect of the environment. Typically add a layer of mastic to the already existing factory coating, they complement each other and create efficient protection of the car.

Mastic does not protect the slits, they need to be additionally treated with a special anti-corrosion substance

Now the factory coating of cars is quite well interacting with different mastic. If you need to repair the coating, then you must first apply primer, and then mastic, since it is not enough for reliable protection. It should be remembered that the passive protection of the bottom is carried out after its careful sweeping from dirt or moisture. Otherwise, the metal is riveted and under mastic. The coating should be periodically updated and regularly inspect the car.

If the rust already has

When rust appears on the body, you should immediately handle the affected by the rust converter. The soil formed at the same time, not only prevents the further rotting of the metal, but also protects the surface from new influences and you will not have to do anything, for example, to change. The most popular today converters "Omega - 1" and "Feran".

The bulk of existing transducers is made using orthophosphoric acid. It has a high cleansing ability, and turn rust into solid ground.

The remnants of the drug, which did not enter the reaction with rust, should be carefully removed, otherwise the corrosion will begin again

Then to the processed place should be applied to mastic or paint material without additional treatments.

Spring salt mixture, which is an aggressive medium for metal. Conservation of the machine for the winter is the same fraught with the formation of corrosion on the chromium coating. In order to avoid damage to the body, it is necessary to apply lacquer in advance, for example: "Anticorrosive" or "Chromofix". Varnish with applying forms a shiny film that protects metal parts from atmospheric exposure. It does not spoil the appearance of the chromed part, but only adds gloss and gloss. As usual, before applying the protective coating, the parts will be pulled off from dirt and dust. It is better to make a soft rag, moistened with turpentine or alcohol, with a dental powder or chalk.

How to protect the car from corrosion

It should be borne in mind that the body of the former in operation of the car is already subject to some extent corrosion. It is almost impossible to get rid of it. In this regard, the main task is to stop the spread of rust and protect them from corrosion. Before repair, damaged by corrosion and suspicious look. Pay special attention to the joints between different elements and for hard-to-reach cavities that contribute to the accumulation of dirt.

Video about how to protect the car body in winter

Most often, the corrosion of the body appears in little ventilated parts. Therefore, it is necessary to check the body on rust with a careful inspection of hidden cavities: spars, door housing, racks, thresholds. After that, thoroughly wash off the dirt from the wheeled niches, the bottom of the car, and all such body parts that are below. After stripping, bare places need to be cleaned with a metal brush and treat anti-corrosion tools.

Another video about how to clean and get rid of rust

Electrochemical Protection

Currently, there are devices, such as "AKOR", allowing to forget about the anti-corrosion processing of the body. Operation on its installation takes about 30 minutes, and then you can forget about rust. On a new car, the corrosion process is prevented, and the distribution of the resulting corrosion stops on the used.

It is based on the electrochemical protection of the car from corrosion on the dependence of the rate of corrosion formation from the electrode potential of each particular metal. Protection properly gives cathode protection, in which the metal potential is shifted to the negative area relative to the corrosion potential.

The automotive metal potential shift is carried out using the cathode protection station as an outer source of direct current or compound with other metals, more electrone-negative in its electrode potentials (they are also called protector anodes).

The surfaces of the details of the structure become equipotential and only cathodic processes occur on all surfaces.

Anode, which cause corrosion formation, is transferred to auxiliary electrodes.

Electronic protection

There is also the electronic protection of the car from corrosion - a method based on new technologies. Developed in the US Electronic Device Final Coat According to the results of research, slows down the corrosion processes in a car to 99.7%. This device successfully enjoy more than 10 years of hundreds of thousands of car owners.

A patented technology was applied to the final coat, due to which free electrons are monitored for the car. A pulse alternating current is fed to create a uniform flow of free electrons. Electrons that are in a uniform flow do not interact with metal atoms and thereby the process of education and, which is equally important, the propagation of corrosion becomes impossible.

The effectiveness and traditional methods of protection and innovative ideas are checked by practice. Only a real situation peculiar to each region individually can prove or disprove the opinions of experts. Share how you struggle with car corrosion, what methods and special means apply. Beginning motorists will gladly perceive this information.

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Stories about the "Eternal Body" of sellers in the car dealership very often become a legend. After several years of operation, you can see first "bugs" and corrosion will cost only local repairs. However, if you even miss one scratch - rust provokes a whole rescue operation to restore the integrity of the body.

Causes of rust on the car body

If we consider from a scientific point of view, corrosion is the oxidation of the layers of metal under the influence of air and water. As a result of the reaction on the body, compounds of hydrated iron oxide appear - loose red powder.

Generally, on the appearance of rust affect:

1. Design factory solutions. Each body is made of thin sheets of metal and, due to the streamlined form, involves a large number of joints and welding connections. The material that selects the manufacturer must have minimal resistance to destructive oxidation processes and contain in itself a proportional number of alloying substances.
2. Exploitation. Even the strongest body will not stand storage in damp or on the street, especially in winter. To extend the life of your car, it is better not to neglect the timely technical inspection and a neat driving style. Roads in Russia can not boast of their quality. Gravel and salt at high speed scratch paintwork and primer, because of what moisture falls directly on the metal layer.

Scientists from Sweden found out that the risk of corrosion appears: thresholds, racks, springs, bottoms, bottoms, and side meters.

1. Environmental factors. There is no luck of the residents of the wet climate. The high temperature difference contributes to the occurrence of condensate in the hidden cavities of the car. Ideally, it flows along the drainage holes in the thresholds and "pockets" of wings. However, as practice shows, in 80% of cases, condensate remains on the spot due to leaves and other garbage in the drainage gutters.

The thin layer of moisture is present on the surface of the body constantly. Depending on the environmental factors, during the drying of water, the car remains different concentration of aggressive substances. As a result, corrosion develops according to such a scheme:

1. Rust under paint coating.
2. Coloring paint on rust foci.
3. Through holes in the body.
4. Damage to welding joints.
5. Destruction of power details of the case.
6. Deformation of doorways, thresholds, racks.
7. Loss of manageability by car as a result of the loss of stiffness of power nodes.

Types of corrosion on the body and the most frequent location places

Highlight two types of metal corrosion:

• Chemical. Corrosion foci occur due to the contact of the metal surface with substances that are not electrolytes. For example: oxidation of metals due to abundant contact with exhaust gases, rust in the fuel system due to hydrogen sulfide additives, elementary sulfur, mercaptans.
• Electrochemical corrosion. Some parts of the body have different electrical potential. Low indicator becomes anode, and high - cathode. Each pair forms a short-circuited galvanic element. As a result, only anode areas are destroyed when exposed to electrolytes, which leads to the formation of rust.

If, with factory assembly or operation, neglect corrosion protection, then with a 100% chance of rust "Eat" body. Motorists share rust types at its locations:

• Neelectricates - damage to fuel and oil systems.
• Gas - exhaust system, silencer, chamfering chambers of exhaust valves of combustion chambers.
• Electrolytes - corrosion due to water stagnation.
• Contact - deformation in places of contact of the body with different electrical potential.
• Atmospheric - corrosion due to environmental factors.
• Slital - in narrow places, gaps.
• Structural - appears in places of the inhomogeneous composition of the metal.
• Under friction conditions, the constant friction nodes are striking, subject to a corrosive medium.
• Under voltage - covers the locations of the constant voltage.
• Biocorrosion - as a result of the vital activity of microorganisms.

Car wash and drying in order to combat fine corrosion

The first stage on the way to combat rust is a washing. The clean surface of the car is the key to getting rid of corrosion, since even small "bugs", missed intense, can deliver great inconvenience in the future.

Cleaning from dirt and dust can be made independently or to give a vehicle to car wash using mechanization tools. An obligatory cleaning is subject to a rotary and luggage compartment - for a detailed inspection of the inner surface of the car.

The automotive industry offers various shampoos that not only remove abrasive dust, but also traces of salts and chemical reagents. A pleasant side effect will be the protection of a paint coating. The main thing is that there are no toxins, phenols or formaldehydes as part of the detergent.

Immediately after washing the car must be dried. You can get rid of water drops using a fan heater or sponge. Natural drying in the sun can lead to the formation of spots.

Separately, it is worth noting that it is not necessary to forget to clean the body after trips to rainy and slushful weather. This will protect the microcracks from clogging. The water temperature during washing should coincide with the air temperature. Sharp temperature drops harm metal and wear it. The use of even warm water in the cold period is dangerous for the vehicle.

Elimination of corrosion by electrochemical way

The method of active cathode protection is known as an electrochemical method. It is based on the same principle that it provokes electrochemical corrosion. Cathodic protection is a way to restore one metal and the destruction of another in the process of their mechanical interaction.

To do this, you will need an electrolyte, a source of direct current and metals with a different electrochemical activity relative to iron. First you need to prepare the surface: clean the rust. The electrode is less active than the metal and connects to the charger or to the plus terminal of the battery. An electrode or processed item should be processed with acid. When the electrode approaches the electrolyte surface due to the decomposition of the ferum hydroxide, ferum will begin.

To protect the place of repair on the item, you can apply a layer of more active metal and also connect it to a continuous source of current. When performing the same actions, galvanized on the surface of the hydrolysis object.

After that, you can wash off the remnants of electrolytes from the surface, proceed to the primer and painting. However, if I do not want to bother with undergraduates - there are a ready-made set of materials on the shelves of automotive stores. It is enough for 1m 2 body surfaces.

Mechanical method of rust removal

For mechanical cleaning, it is customary to use abrasives. For example: with an iron brush, you can remove rust on the surface of the body. Disadvantage: It takes a lot of time and effort to clean the entire car body manually. To simplify life, you can use the grinding machine. With the help of a slide disk, it is necessary to clean the corrosion foci by 6-8 mm, and then read the fine-grained skurt to full smoothness.

To clean the large metal objects, it is better to use sandblasting machines - to the "infected" section under pressure, a mixture of sand and water is supplied, which is effectively struggling with rust. When working, it is necessary to control the pressure with which the mixture affects the metal, since the body may be deformed with an excessively strong pressure.

The thickness of the treated walls should be at least 1 cm, otherwise it threatens the appearance of new holes.

You can familiarize yourself with the technology of rust removal from the body surface on the video:

Tools and materials for self-fighting rust

Depending on the chosen method of combating rust, a different tool arsenal will be required. However, it is imperative to be patient, detergent and clean rags.

Those who do not want to paint their hands on the grinding and to deal with the process of hydrolysis can take advantage of the innovative methods of combating corrosion. Recently, reagents of transducers are particularly popular, which simply convert red dust into a gray substance that are easily washed off from the surface of the vehicle.

Working with the body after rust removal: preparation, primer, painting

Immediately after stripping corrosion places, the surface must be carefully deguted and projected. However, if factory primer remained on the metal - the need to hold a new one disappears. The soil, first of all, provides better paint and putty. There are several species: an equalizer, sealant and epoxy primer.

After complete drying, the body is putty. It is possible to apply several layers of putty, but each of them needs to be cleaned up to full smoothness. After one more layer of primer is applied and the car goes into painting.

Corrosion Prevention and Rust Protection

Starting to solve this question is needed by purchasing. It is worth remembering that different manufacturers use different types of metals for the manufacture of structures. For example, BMW and Mersedes cars react to the impact of destructive factors, and Opel quickly rust even with dry weather.

When buying budget cars, it is worth remembering that manufacturers often save on quality and use fine steel in production, which quickly comes in disrepair. Therefore, when buying a car, it is not necessary to navigate the brand and the brand, but on the technical characteristics.

During the operation of the vehicle, it is necessary to "take care", namely:

• contain in a dry and well ventilated room;
• do not neglect car wash using shampoos;
• in the case of painting to comply with technology. Corrosion is formed not due to the thin layer of paint, but due to cracks and chips on it;
• carry out a regular inspection of the car. Ideally, it is better to make every 1-2 years;
• use various anti-corrosion products, wax.

The main enemy of the car is rust. Today there is a lot of ways to combat rust. However, that the Iron Horse will be correct to serve far from one year, it is better to prevent the appearance of corrosion. Even the smallest "bug" can provoke capital bodywork.