Since, by the nature of the activities, truck drivers often need to overcome long distances, then the repair of KamAZ has to be performed independently. Of course, it is impossible to repair the truck in full, as it is impossible to have all the necessary spare parts for this. But, despite this, the driver should be able to make faithful diagnosis and eliminate malfunctions to get safely to the service.
The main way to eliminate breakage is timely prevention. Moreover, for trucks, maintenance is carried out in accordance with the recommendations of the manufacturer. In the initial period of operation, that is, mileage up to 1000 km, it is necessary to comply with the recommendations that the plant producer gives for this period. This includes riding at speed not higher than 50 km / h, as well as the load on the car should not exceed 75% of the nominal. Each machine is attached to repair manual.
Basic rules of operation
The purpose of repair is to prevent serious breakdowns. This is facilitated by the event to replace working fluids. It is necessary to do this in a timely manner. All fluids for lubrication and cooling must comply with the manufacturer's recommendations.
It is necessary to immediately eliminate the leaks in the cooling system and faulty valves. If this is not done on time, it can lead to the breakdowns of the liquid pump.
If the pressure alarm in the lubricant system occurred, then it should not be continued until the breakage is completely eliminated.
To avoid the appearance of cracks in mounting the cylinder heads, it is necessary to make the insulation of the bolts for the bolts, so that the dirt and liquid do not fall inside.
Truck repair may require welding. In order to start performing such works, you need to turn off the battery, and also remove the plus contact from the generator.
Behavior in the event of a car malfunction
If you find that leakage in the cooling system has occurred, you can pour water there. But this will not eliminate the problem, and it can only be a temporary solution. In such a state, the car can reach the place of repair.
If the truck moves along the road, which is covered with liquid mud, then it follows from time to time to wash the radiator with water under pressure. In order to do this, you need to raise the cab. It is important that the water does not get to the generator.
If the car does not work the engine and it is required to tow it, then it is required to remove cardan Val.. This will help avoid breakdown gearbox.
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This article describes the repair (restoration) of the KamAZ cab. At the beginning of the article, we will consider the phased analysis of the KAMAZ cabin, and at the end of the article we will see the video repair of the KamAZ cabin with their own hands, and in particular, everything will be considered welding workrequired when repairing the cabin. So let's go!
To remove the cab:
- raise the front facing cabin panel;
- disconnect the plugging of the electrical wiring of subharbones;
- remove the front buffer fastening bolts and remove it;
- disconnect the plug pads of the right and left beams of wiring;
- disconnect the intermediate traction of the brake crane from the bracket located on the left side member, leaving and drove the traction finger;
- disconnect the fuel supply control;
- disconnect the hydraulic hose of the pneumatic-hydroxidant of the clutch and drain the liquid from the hydraulic line;
- release air receivers and disconnect all pneumatic shutdowns installed on the front panel brackets;
- slip and unscrew the wedge nut cardanian Vala steering, in painting of soft metal to select the wedge;
- disconnect the drive shaft of the steering;
- disconnect the radiator shutter drive cable;
- close the cabin crane and disconnect the coolant supply hose and removal;
- remove the castle washers from the right and left fingers of the front brackets of the cab opid; Open the locking devices on the left and right sides, release the safety hook and tilter the cab by 42 °;
- slip and remove the finger of the cab lift, located on the cabin bracket;
- supporting the cabin, tilting it at 60 °;
- remove the coupling bolts and remove the torsion levers;
- open the cabin doors;
- put the crane beam and use the device to capture the cabin for the top shelves of door openings;
- supporting the cockpit of the crane-beam, lintel and remove the finger of the bottom cabin limiter;
- carefully lower the cab in the original position;
- unload the axis of the front support of the cabin, lifting the cockpit with a crane-beam, remove the axes from the right and left brackets;
- lift the cockpit crane and install it on the stand.
Removing the front supports only after removing the cab. To remove the lower and upper brackets, remove the bolts that are fixing them to the frame and to the Cabin floor transverse beam. The upper brackets are mounted in the floor to floating plates with threaded holes, which, if necessary, can be replaced from the inside of the cab through the oval holes in the floor or through the hole for the steering column, rejecting the locking beam inserts fixing them.
When installing the lower brackets, follow the alignment of the holes of both brackets, and finally tighten the top bracket bolts after installing them into the lower brackets and the connections to their axes, but until the cabin is still suspended and the front supports are not loaded with weight.
Removal and installation of doors. To remove the door, the finger connecting the door opening limiter with the bracket on the inner door panel, then remove the door hollow bolts with anterior cabin.
Door installation with installed lock and lock door lock. Before the tightening bolts, fastening the samples to the rack, squeeze the lock in the second fixed position. To avoid friction between the clig of the lock and the lock, insert some gasket with a thickness of 1 ... 1.5 mm (preferably politically), which is removed after tightening the door hits after tightening. In this case, the gap between the door and the doorway throughout the way is maintained permanent (6 ... 10 mm).
Removing the hatch lid internal door panel. In order to provide access to the door mechanisms, as well as disassembling the mechanisms of the lock, windows, glass, you must first remove the hatch cover of the inner door panel.
To do this, remove the inner handles of the door lock and the windows, for which press the polyethylene rosette under the handle and remove the pad of the handle fastening. Then remove the door hatch mounting screws and remove the lid.
Removing the door lock through the opener of the door panel in the following order:
remove the hatch cover;
Remove the three drive bolts. Turning the drive, output it from the engagement with the burden and remove through the hatch;
Remove the locking screws from the door of the door and remove it through the hatch.
Install the lock in the reverse order. When assembling the drive and the lock, all rubbing surfaces and springs lubricate MZ-10 with lubrication.
To remove the lock lock, remove the screws that are fixing it to rear stand Cabin sidewalls.
If you faults the button of the outdoor door handle, the button can be removed after removing the outer handle. To remove the outer handle, remove the two screws that are fixing it from the inner panel of the door through the hatch internal door panel. When installing the button, do not forget to install the button seal.
Removing the window in the doorway through the opener of the door panel in the following order:
- remove the hatch cover;
- put the window of the windows in the glass in such a position in which the rope of the hydrogen glass will be located against the hatch;
- through the hatch, remove the clamping bar by turning the fastening bolts;
- remove the windows fastening screws;
- remove the windows through the hatch.
When building a window switch, all rubbed surfaces lubricate Litol-24 lubrication.
Removing the downstream doors in the following order:
- remove the door cover;
- remove the windows;
- remove the screws of the removable glass seal holder (under the door of the door) and display a removable hook holder with the main holder, then disconnect it from the door seal and remove through the hatch;
- remove the rubber buffer of the lower stop glass through the hatch;
- lower the glass, tilt and move forward so that it stood in front of the hatch;
- remove the glass through the hatch.
Regulation and removal of the swivel. The glass of the rotary window holds in any position, even with a strong head of the oncoming wind, the spring holder of the bottom axis. The ease of rotation of the window and the reliability of its fixation can be adjusted by the holder screw tightening, for which you remove the polyethylene hole plug under the bottom axis of the window and tighten or loosen the adjusting screw of the holder.
To remove the windows glass, remove the holder screw and the screws securing the upper axis of the dot point. Then, moving the window up, remove the bottom axis from the holder and the window seal
The removal and installation of wind and rear windows spend the same in the following order:
- remove the wipers levers;
- remove the Rubber Castle of the Middle Window Rack Seal;
- remove the metal cladding from the bog of the sealing seal and edging of the seal all over the perimeter;
- pressing your hands on the top corners of the glass from the cab, output the seal from the flange of the opening and, flexing the edge of the seal, remove the glass and the seal;
- clean the seal from the paste.
To install the glasses:
- lubricate the groove of fresh paste seals;
- flexing the edge of the seal, insert the glass into the seal (it is convenient to do, imposing the seal on the front-side table);
- put the sealing seal so that the joint is in its lower part of the window, and put a metal cladding on the bog buttons;
- insert the Rubber Castle of the Medium Window Rack Seal;
- insert in the groove (intended for connecting the seal with the flange of the window opening), a solid twine or cord so that the ends are at the bottom of the seal;
- install the glass along with the seal in the opening window, pressing them outside to the flange;
- holding one end of the twine, pull smoothly, without jerks for another end, dragging the sealer valve through the flange of the window opening. To facilitate this operation, you can use a screwdriver;
- clean the glasses and open the windows from the excess paste;
- install the wiper levers.
When using a seal made from an open profile, it is easier to install glass, installing the seal first in the opening, and then flexing the edge of the seal, insert one first, then another glass (easier to do it, inserting glass from the middle to the edges) and then fill Central rack profile. After that, insert the middle rack itself, edging the seal with facing and the middle rack lock.
To improve the sealing of the glass after the installation between the sealing edge and the glass in the lower half of the window circuit, you can enter rubber glue.
Setting the roof ventilation hatch in the following order:
- put the ventilation hatch cover from above in the opening of the roof;
- from the inside or outside the front of the cover and insert the levers in the brackets and the rolling roller in the hatch lid brackets, and then lower the hatch cover;
- outside, lift the back of the hatch cover, feeding it forward, and with the help of a screwdriver insert the rear levers.
If the defect occurs - the lifting of the roof cover of the ventilation hatch - eliminate the deformation of the brackets 8, in which the rollers of the levers of the hatch cover are resting.
To remove the heater fans, remove the fan cover screws of the fan, disconnect the outputs of the electric motor. Then remove the screws that fasten the rubberometallic flange of the electric motor to the fan snail, and remove the electric motor with the fan handwheel. Remove the screw, fixing the fan working wheel on the motor shaft, and remove the wheel.
When installed, connect the electric motor with wires so that the working wheel of the left fan is rotated clockwise, and the working wheel of the right fan is counterclockwise, if you look out of the cab. To do this, at the electric motor of the left fan, connect the black output to the green wire from the beam of the wires, and the red output of the electric motor is to the mass wire. For the electric motor of the right fan - on the contrary: a red output with a green beam wire, and a black output with a mass wire.
When using non-versic electric motors ME 226, it is necessary to distinguish the electric motors of the right and left rotation, and the left-rotated electric motor ME 226B must be installed on the left fan, and the Right rotation motor ME 226K is on the right fan. In this case, the green wire from the beam of the wires connect to the plug on the electric motor cover, the parallel plane of the cover, and the mass wire to the plug parallel to the axis of rotation of the electric motor.
To remove the heater drive, remove the knobs of the crane levers, control, byverting the screws, fasten them, remove the drive screws to the shield under the instrument panel, remove the scale and drive. Remove the clamp screws of the cable shells, suck and remove the cables of the drives. To remove the levers, unscrew the axis fastening of the axis of the levers. When assembling the drive, the nut on the axis of the drive handles is tightened to ensure easy movement of the handles, and shrank it. Lubricate parts before assembly.
When installing aircases, the hose, bringing the air to the left deflector on the instrument panel, should pass between the wiper thrust.
Seat removal in the following order:
- tilter cabin;
- remove the lower thermal insulation of the floor;
- remove the seat fastening nuts under the cabin floor (four nuts at the driver's seats and the middle passenger and six nuts from the seat of the extreme passenger);
- lower the cab and remove the seat.
When installing, securing the seat only self-lock nuts. All sided surfaces of seat hinges, torsion plates, movement mechanisms Lubricate with lithol-24 lubrication assembly.
For removal of the coverage of the cab:
- remove the hook for clothes, loops curtains of the bedroom, laying plaque;
- remove the sidewall upholstery fastening clips using a screwdriver;
- remove the top, rear and lower sidewall upholsters;
- remove the top upholstery top (after removing glass seals rear windows, first aid kits);
- remove the roof stabble around the ventilation hatch by driving the fingers and paper clips;
- remove the cab wall lighting;
- remove the fitness belts of the sleeping belt and the bed location guide curtains;
- remove the clips fastening the back of the roof upholstery and remove it;
- remove the fastening of the front of the front of the roof upholstery and, feeding it back, remove it;
- remove by rejecting fastening clips, upholstery of the bottom of the tail (made of artificial leather with artificial felt);
- remove the lateral front thermal insulation by reducing the polyethylene clips of their attachment, and then both thermal insulation front, rejecting the rubber clips of their mounting.
To remove the upholstery and thermal insulation of the floor, you must remove the seat.
Set the upholstery of the cab in reverse order, i.e. first thermal insulation of the front panel, then - sidewall, first fasten the front part of the roof upholstery, then rear, then the back is upholstered, then sidewall.
Set rubber clips is better with the help of a special mandrel or rod inserted into the hole of the clips and pulling it when inserting into the hole.
Installing the front of the front of the roof upholstery or the roof upholstery (without sleeping cabin). Machine: Insert the front of the upholstery under the front of the roof amplifier, move the upholstery forward until the side upholstery grooves coincide with the roof amplifiers. Press the upholstery up to the roof. Sillar through the mounting holes in the upholstery. "Take fastening holes in the roof amplifiers, align these holes and insert the paper clips. Also insert clips and other upholsters. In four holes for fastening the stabber of the ventilation hatch in front and behind the hatch insert the fingers of 5x18 with the washers and stipulate in the upper part, to other four-paper clips.
Open the instrument panel for removing the instrument panel by twisting two screws in the top of it, the switch shield and disconnect all the instruments and switches from the wires, then remove the fuse bracket bolts (in the middle of the instrument panel). After that, remove the staples that lock the wire bundle on the bottom of the instrument panel, and remove the bundle along with the fuse bracket from the instrument panel. Remove the hoses with windshield blowing nozzles and blowing glass blowing deflectors (these hoses are more convenient to remove with air distributor nozzles). Remove the fastening bolts of the lower plates with the heater of the cabin, the blinds of the radiator, etc.
Remove the instrument panel mounting bolts to the sidewalls, to two side skins, to the steering column bracket. Remove the instrument panel mounting bolts to the front panel (through the instrument panel openings, switch shield, badboxAnd if the box is not removed, then from below, from under the instrument panel) and remove the instrument panel.
To remove a discovery box, open the door, remove the locking screws to the door, the cable mounting screws to the bottom wall of the instrument panel and to the racks (from the inside of the box) or unscrew the mounting of the dashboard to the instrument panel (if you need to remove the racks): on the left, opening the shield of the switches, reflect Two screws, and on the right - from the bottom from under the instrument panel - two bolts. Remove the drawer out and screw the door loops. Spacer in the conjunction of the front and rear parts of the front wings can be broken. In this case, fill or dismissed the residues of the spacer, drill through hole In both parts of the wing and by installing a metal or plastic spacer space between them with a bolt hole, pull the bolt with a self-locking nut with both parts of the wing.
As promised at the very beginning - video about the repair of KamAZ cabins with their own hands: Welding works.
As always, you can ask your questions on ourKAMAZ-FORUM. where you will answer competent and experienced drivers.
Total labor intensity - 1350.0 people. Min performer - Locksmith for repair of the 5th category
Equipment, appliances, tools
Crane beam suspended 0 \u003d 2.0 TC GOST 7890-73; Stand for disassembling the mod engine assembly. 9194-019, R-770 or P-776; Stand disassembly stand crankshaft Maud. 410-009; consumption meter GOST 11988-72; Stand for testing the oil channels of the cylinder block on the model tightness. 470.086; Stand for testing a water shirt of a block of cylinders on a model tightness. 470.087; Press hydraulic P-337; Diamond-boring machine mod. 2705; Pneumatic and IP-3113; Installation for washing mod parts. 196 m or "typhoon"; Pistol for blowing parts with compressed air C-417; Nutrometer indicator 18-50 GOST 9244-75; Template 8151-4672 for checking the distance from the crankshaft to the vverld; Template for size 0.5 mm; a set of probe No. 2 GOST 882-75; Device for measuring the distance from the crankshaft barbell to the end of the sealing protrusion of the mod cylinder. 8701-4434; Device to control the elongation of connecting rod bolts 7813-4045; Set of digital branded type 06-7804-4001-01-08; Device for checking the fusion end of the flywheel relative to the crankshaft axis of the mod. At-1p TU 2-034-468-71; Handle Dynamometric mod. 131 m; key dynamometric mod. Pim-1754; Suspension for transporting and installing mod motor. 130.219.00.000.000; Suspension for removing-installation Drive hydrums for a collection with front lid mod. 170.86; Suspension for crankshaft mod. 170.081; Suspension for removing and installing fashion flywheel. 170.012; Shift heads 13, 17, 19, 24 mm GOST 25604-83; Extension L \u003d 250 mm GOST 25600-83; key with a connecting square of GOST 25601-83; Screwdrivers 6.5 mm; 8.0 mm; 10.0 mm GOST 17199-71; Key wrench ring 13 mm GOST 2906-80; Hammer Flooring Steel GOST 2316-77; Hammer copper mod. PIM-1468-17-370; Hammer of solid wood; chisel cleaned GOST 7211-86; Passatages special for removal and installation of spring stop rings and 801.23.000; Passati with elongated sponges GOST 17440-86; Insert special for turning and wrapping the ry-bolt; The lever for rotation of the crankshaft of the engine 7829-4087 or 7829-4063; The puller cover of the lower head rod and 801.17.000; The puller of the gear and rear counterweight of the crankshaft and 801.01.000, the puller for removing the lids of the root bearings of the crankshaft and 801.18.000; puller for removing the sleeves and 801.05.000; puller High Power Silment 7700-4188; Bearing remover from the rear end of the crankshaft 7700-4186; puller pins 3570; Fitting for piston assembly with rod and rings 7822-4034; Device for removing the installation of piston rings and 801.08.000; Device for pressing cylinder sleeves in block 7823-4021; The mandrel for installing the piston with piston rings in the cylinder sleeve and 801. 00.001-01; mandrel for installing the carter of the flywheel 7890-4107; Device for adjusting the thermal gaps of the engine and 801.14.000; mandrel rear Bearing Drive TNVD; brass mandrel for knocking out the piston assembled from the cylinder block; Crochet mandrel for removing plugs of connecting skeins; mandrel for removing the oil remover with distribution gear 7853-4084; mandrel for reasuring the sleeve of the rod head (tubular dar \u003d 49 mm, double \u003d 40 mm, L \u003d 100 mm); mandrel for removing and installing the piston finger into the piston hole and the rod 7853-4045; transition head (connecting square - screwdriver); Mandrel for pressing the bearing in the rear end socket of the crankshaft (tubular, dar \u003d 52 mm, 28
Double \u003d 25 mm, L \u003d 100 mm); mandrel for pressing the installation pin into the opening of the front end of the crankshaft shaft (dar \u003d 25 mm, double \u003d 14 mm, ynar \u003d 50 mm; 1On \u003d 7 mm); mandrel for pressing the plugs of the crankshaft 7880-4043; The mandrel for the roller block of the crankshaft shaft 7860-4042; Mandrel for pressing the semolation of the selection * power (tubular dar \u003d 45 mm, double \u003d 28 mm, L \u003d 100 mm;) mandrel for pressing the mounting pin in "Hole of the rear end of the crankshaft (dar \u003d 25 mm, dpn \u003d 14 mm, Lar \u003d 50 mm, 1VN \u003d 10 mm); The blade is wooden to remove the gaskets; workbench brass; bath for heated mod. 2343; Capacity with dry ice; Protective mittens; Blacksmith mittens; Hair CFK-8 GOST 10597-70; Capacity with motor oil; GOST 211220-75 napkin; graphite lubrication capacity; wood blade
Engine disassembly KAMAZ-740
Laboriousness -410,0 people. Min.
1. Install the subjorating engine on the bench for disassembly, assembly.
(Crane beam, suspension, stand).
2. Remove the ry-bolt 16 (Fig. 1) front, remove adjusting washers 15.
(Special insert).
3. Unscrew the bolts 3 (Fig. 2) with washers 4 fastening of the rear bearing housing 6 assembly with cuff 5, remove the housing 6 and the gasket 7 of the TNVD drive rear bearing.
(Head replaceable 17 mm, key with p., Mandrel, hammer, screwdriver 8.0 mm).
4. Remove the gear 1 (Fig. 3) TNVD drive assembled with the shaft 2.
5. Unscrew the bolts 13 (Fig. 4) with washers 25 fastening the head of the cylinder block and remove the head of the cylinder block with valves 1 and 21 assembly from the cylinder block. (Head replaceable 19 mm, key with p.).
6. Remove the sealing ring 34 and laying the cylinder head from the cylinder block. (Shock for removing pads).
7. Remove the pushers rod assembly from the cylinder block.
8. Repeat work 5-7 for the remaining seven cylinders.
9. Unscrew the bolts 5 (Fig. 5) with washers 2 and 3 fastening the switch of hydromephids to the discharge nozzle and remove the switch 1 hydromeflip from the engine. (Wrench wrench
10. Unscrew the bolts 3, 49, 50 (Fig. 1) with washers 4, 5, 47, 48 of the fastening of the front cover 6 to the cylinder block 20, remove the fan drive hydrumuft assembly with the front lid 6 and. Gasket 44 from the front end of the cylinder block. (Head replaceable 17 mm, key with p., Blank for removing gaskets, crane-beam, suspension for removing the installation of the drive hydrumuft assembly with the front lid.
11. Remove the hydromeflip drive shaft.
12. Bend the mustache of the castle washers 40 (Fig. 6), unscrew the fastening bolts 41 with washers. High pulmonary seating. Power seamlessness 39 from the crankshaft 7. (chisel, hammer, shift head 17 mm, key with n. k., Screwdriver 6.5 mm).
13. Swelling the ammunition of the lock plates 12 (Fig. 7) bolts fastening the flywheel to the crankshaft. Perform work on engines to № 75800. (chisel, hammer).
14. Unscrew the bolts 11 of the flywheel mounting. (Head replaceable 19 mm, key with p.).
15. Remove the castle plates 12. Work to perform on the engines to № 75800.
16. Wrap the two technological bolts 2 (Fig. 8) in the opening of the flywheel until it stops into the end of the hub and remove the flywheel 1. Bolts wrap alternately into several revolutions. (Head
Replaceable 17 mm, crane beam, pendant for removing the flywheel installation, key with connecting square).
17. Unscrew the bolts 7 and 9 (Fig. 9) fastening with washers 5, 6, 10 and 11 flywheel crankcase to the cylinder block, remove the 2 flywheel Carter assembly and gasket 1 from the cylinder block. (Shift heads 17 and 19 mm, with p., The blade for removing the gaskets).
18. Rotate the engine on the stand in the upper position of the cylinder block crankcase. (Stand).
19. Rotate the crankshaft so that the connecting rod neck of the 1st and 5 cylinders is at the bottom of the dead point (NMT). Count number of necks lead from the front of the crankshaft. (Lever arm).
Fig. 1. Cylinder block with front lid, cylinder sleeve:
1, 45 - hairpin; 2 - front cover oil carriage; 3, 29, 31, 37, 40, 41, 49, 50 - bolt; 4, 30, 48 - Spring washer; 5, 38, 46, 47 - Flat washer; 6 - Front block cover; 7, 8, 11, 32 - plug; 9, 10, 35 - pin mount; 12 - Hole plug distribution Vala.; 13 - Sealing Ring; 14 - the sleeve of the camshaft; 15 - Heb adjusting ry-bolt; 16 - ry-bolt; 17 - sleeve with sealing rings assembly; 18 - sealing ring sleeves; 19 - Cap Castle; 20 - block of cylinders; 21 - cylindrical mounting pin; 22 - pin guide; 23 - Cap Castle; 24 - cylinder sleeve; 25 - the top sealing ring of the sleeve; 26 - the sealing ring of the sleeve; 27 - gasket; 28 - Tube! drain; 33 - Water cavity plug; 34 - laying the plug; 36 - rear cover; indigenous bearing; 39 - indigenous bearing cover; 42 - Water cavity cap; 43 - cylindrical pin; 44 - Laying of the front cover of block 30
Fig. 4. Cylinder head with valves:
1 - graduation valve; 2 - saddle exhaust valve; 3 - guide sleeve of the exhaust valve; 4 - Spring Valve Washer; 5 - the outer spring of the valve; 6 - internal valve spring; 7 - bushing plates; 8 - Truck valve; 9 - bolt fastening the cover of the head of the cylinder block; 10 - washer flat; 11, 25 - washer; 12 - Cylinder head cover; 13 - bolt fastening the head of the cylinder block; 14 - plate springs valve; 15 - inlet valve casing; 16 - Cuff Ring; 17 - inlet valve casing assembly; 18 - the guide sleeve of the inlet valve; 19 - inlet valve seat; 20 - inlet valve; 21 - Stud mounting the exhaust manifold nozzle; 22 - safety sleeve gaskets; 23 - support brackets; 24 1-pin fixture brackets; 26 - Rocker rack fastening stud; 27 - Laying the cylinder head cover; .28 - Pottle of the rack of the axis of the rocker; 29 - write fastening of the intake manifold; 30 - Warm pipe mounting; 31 - head of the cylinder block; 32 - plug head of the cylinder block; 33 - O-ring plug; 34 - Ring Sealing Gas Junge
20. Unshed!\u003e Nuts 11 (Fig. 10) Bolts 9 Fastening of the cover of the 1st cylinder rod to the connecting rod, set the puller shown on the rod cover. 11, remove the cover 10 (Fig. 10) connecting rod, remove the connecting rod bolts 9 and put them in order on the workbench. Repeat the operation on the removal of the rod cover of the 5th cylinder. The cylinder numbers must be knocked out on the connectors of the connectors. (The head is replaceable 19 mm, the key with n., The workbench is a plumbing, the puller of the rods of the rods).
21. Rotate the crankshaft so that the connecting cervical neck of the 1st and 5 cylinders is in the upper dead point (NTT), with light blows of the hammer through the rug of tides under the mounting bolts of the 5th cylinder cylinder cover, knock out the piston 6 assembly with connecting rod 8 and rings 2, 3 and 13 from the cylinder block and put on the workbench. Repeat the operation to remove the piston assembly for the 1st cylinder. On connecting rods, cylinders numbers should be knocked out. (The lever for rotation of the crankshaft, the workbench, brass mandrel for knocking out the piston, hammer).
22. Remove from the cover of 10 rod and the bottom head of the rod 8 inserts 12.
23. Install the cover of 10 connecting rod on the connecting rod 8, install the mounting bolts 9 and wrap the nuts 11. (replaceable head 19 mm, key with p.).
24. Repeat work 19-23 to remove the remaining 7 rods with the piston assembly.
25. Bend the messenger of the lock washer 25 (Fig. 2), turn out the mounting bolt 1 with washers 25 and 26 of the drive gear 21 of the camshaft drive. (Hammer, chisel, - shift head 19 mm, key with p.).
26. Remove the gear 21 of the camshaft drive assembled from the intermediate gear 2 camshaft drive from the axis 16 of the drive gear of the camshaft drive. (Puller and-801.01.000).
27. Bend the tunes of the castle washers 17, unscrew the mounting bolts 18 with the axis of the axis 16 of the camshaft drive gear and remove the axis 16 from the cylinder block. (Chisel, hammer, shift head 17 mm, key with p. K.).
28. Unscrew the scared bolts 37 (Fig. 1) of the covers 36, 39 of the crankshaft bearing. (Head replaceable 19 mm, key with p.).
Before using the car, you need to carefully examine this guide and further comply with the recommendations outlined in it.
A new car must be recorded. This provides technical advice on the operation and maintenance of the car, supplying spare parts and warranty service. A service book is applied to each car.
To ensure the impeccable operation of the car, apply spare parts of only factory manufacture. The installation of various equipment and mechanisms for the car and its chassis should be coordinated with the developer and the holder of the design documentation - with the Directorate for the Development and Implementation of New Development of KamAZ. Otherwise, the car is not subject to warranty service.
For the initial period of operation of the new car, there is a mileage of 1000 km, during which the requirements specified in section "6. Operation of the car" are installed.
When operating a car, it is necessary to use fuels, lubricating and operational materials In accordance with this manual.
Faulty tank plugs and gaskets, leaks in cooling system connections and insufficient cooling fluid level leads to cavitation fractures of the liquid pump and block.
When sunbathing alarm pressure drop in the engine lubricant, stop the engine, find and troubleshoot.
Follow the fluid temperature in the engine cooling system: when sunbathing alarm fluid overheating, stop the engine, find and troubleshoot the malfunction.
Operation with a non-grid inlet path leads to premature engine output. Each that-2, check the integrity of the rubber pipes, aircases and the reliability of the connections, eliminate the tract's leakage.
When transporting bulk dusting cargo in an open platform, increased dusting of the ambient air or the presence of an awning on the platform, lift the air intake cap using the nozzle attached to the car.
To prevent the occurrence of cracks in the bolts under the cylinder head bolts, it is necessary to protect the threaded holes for the bolts from fluid or contaminants when disassembling the engine, and especially before installing cylinder heads.
When carrying out electric welding work on the car must be disabled rechargeable batteries The remote switch and removed the wires from the "+" conclusions of the generator and B, about the brush holder.
The mass of the mass of the welding machine must be connected in the immediate vicinity of the weld.
If there is a reactive rod dent pipe with a depth of more than 2 mm, cracks or rejuvenation of more than 3 mm throughout the entire length of the jet rod should be replaced.
When loading, monitor the uniform distribution of cargo on the platform, not allowing its front part overload.
When the coolant leakage in road conditions appear on road conditions, it is possible to briefly use water in the cooling system, but only at the time following to the place where malfunctions can be eliminated.
With a long motion on dirty roads (with liquid mud), periodically rinse the surface of the radiator with a sufficient pressure from the hose. To do this, lift the cockpit and direct the water stream on the radiator from the engine side. Avoid direct water from entering the generator.
It is strictly forbidden to tug a car with non-working engine Without removing the intermediate cardan shaft to avoid the bearings of the gears of the secondary shaft of the gearbox.
Apply on the engine fuel equipmentstipulated by the design of this model.
The plant reserves the right to further improve the design of the car without prior to the prevention of consumers.
Security measures
All faults found during the inspection of the car must be eliminated.
You can not make lubricant and cleaning the engine.
In case of ignition diesel fuelThe flame should be covered with the ground, sand or cover it with felt or tarpaulter, use the fire extinguisher. It is strictly forbidden to pour burning fuel with water.
Open a traffic expansion tank The superheated engine should be carefully in order to avoid burning steam. Coupling fluid explosive.
When braking auxiliary brake system, you can not switch transmissions in the gearbox.
Do not turn off the engine when moving rolling, because the pneumatic receipt compressor is turned off. brake system and steering hydraulic.
KAMAZ is a historical truck used for various purposes. Despite the age of technology, it is often used to transport heavy loads, such as sand and crushed stone. Thanks to their work, a large number of residential buildings and other buildings were erected. IN soviet time KAMAZ was the most common motor vehicle, so everyone heard about the benefit "KAMAZ - repair with their own hands."
Since that time, practically nothing has changed, and KAMAZ as popular and remained. The difference consists only that new, more modern and improved vehicles came to the change of old car models. But be that as it may, the whole technique sooner or late fails, and the KAMAZ is not an exception. Therefore, the repair of this technique is only a matter of time.
Since drivers trucks In most cases, they are driving, they often have to repair motor vehicle Alone. Naturally, it is not about carrying out full-fledged repairs, since KAMAZ overhaul provides for certain tools and spare parts. And the driver is not able to carry out all this, and there is no need. The essence of repairs is to eliminate small breakdowns that impede the movement of the machine into the nearest maintenance item.
The main way to prevent breakdown is prevention. This is especially true when it comes to KAMAZ car. The nuance is that the manufacturer's plant has its own auto transportation recommendations. Such recommendations must be followed during the first test period, which is 1 thousand km. If you look mostly, the recommendations relate to the speed and overload of the car. Included with the machine there is a guide "KAMAZ - repair with your own hands."
The main purpose of the repair is to prevent more complex breakdowns. The main preventive work includes the periodic replacement of all fluids (as required by the rules for the operation of the car). All fluids, especially cooling and lubricating, must be selected by all the rules and requirements. You can not pour into the car inappropriate fluid.
If there is a flow in the cooling system, problems with gaskets and valves, they must be immediately eliminated. If the breakage was not eliminated after detection, it can lead to more serious problems. Separately, a block or liquid pump can be released. 
As for the heart of the car - the engine, its repair must be carried out only when the alarm signaling device will turn on, which indicates pressure in the lubrication system. With a burning alarm, it is undesirable to continue movement. It is necessary to stop the car and find out the cause of the problem. Only after eliminating the breakage can be continued. "Kamaz repair with your own hands", whose video can be found on the Internet, is a unique benefit, especially when it comes to the engine.
- If during the operation of the car, the cooling system liquid was leaked, it is possible to solve the problem with the help of water, which is fed into the system. This is enough to get to the maintenance station.
- If the machine often drives dirt, then it is necessary to regularly clean the radiator from it, which will save from the repair of this component of the cooling system. It is necessary to rinse with water, but so that it sprinkles on the generator.
- Before towing a car, you need to remove the cardan shaft. It will save the car gearbox from repair.
Thanks to such advice and preventive work, you can postpone the repair of the car for a long time.
Video: Wheel hub. KAMAZ. Repair of the Crown
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