How to close a hole in the bodie of the car? Sometimes small "bugs" are found before painting the vehicle on its body, under which the through hole is hidden. Consider how to make a patch on the body yourself. A quick way to mask the hole in the body without overhaul! You can repair the hole on your body yourself if its size is not more than the matchbox.
To eliminate this problem, you can use 2 methods.
The hole can be masked by a spheolder containing fiberglass additives. This method is simple and rapid, but not everyone can be called successful.
Therefore, it is better to choose a more complex, but effective way to repair a vehicle body.
The method of eliminating serious damage on the car body
It consists in installing a patch, carved from a thin metal, such as a canning can. Initially, a piece of metal of the required size is cut, for full overlap of the hole. Then a powerful soldering iron, the patch is soldered to the body using the rust acid converter as a flux.
When performing this procedure, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances:
Before attacking a patch, its edges must be reached by the soldering iron. You also need to lose the surface on which the attack is made. The patch must be soldered with a solid seam so that there are no empty gaps.
You need to make sure that the latch did not swear above the hole. If it happened, you must neatly drown the metal, with the help of a hammer. If the failure is that most often happens, the patch must be removed with a putty, the layer of which should be a thickness of no more than 3 mm. For this you need to perform
How to close a hole in the car body - the following actions:
1. Find the sandpaper with the size of the abrasive 120. On the eye you need to determine the surface area, which should be covered, adding 2-3 millimeters with each side of the margins.
3. After final preparation of space for spittle, it is necessary with the help of a small cloth with a moistened "White-alcohol", carefully treat sandy surfaces, clearing them from dust and dirt, at the same time degreasing.
4. Next, you can begin to perform the most responsible step, consisting in the pre-primer of the patchwork. This work should be performed immediately how the metal will be processed with alcohol, because after 2-3 hours, the corrosion of this part of the body will begin.
5. First, the first primer layer (acid or phosphate) is applied. This two-component primer is better breed in a glass jar or plastic dishes. Another option is to use acid soil selling in aerosol cans.
6. Phosphate soil must be applied on a piping thin layer. The soil begins to dry quickly, and can give herds. After fifteen minutes, you can begin to apply another thin layer. The procedure must be performed at a temperature of 20 degrees.
7. After some time (from 1 to 15 minutes), the last layer of acrylic two-component soil is applied. You need a few minutes to dry the patchwork, then you can begin to paint the body, so that it glisters, as if the car just left the car dealership. To speed up this process, you can use infrared warming.
How to close a hole in the body of cars we told, quite simple!
By handing your car in order, sometimes you have to find an unpleasant problem - a through hole in the bottom of the body. Some owners of the car immediately appeal for help in service for maintenance of machines, while others are trying to close the hole on their own. In the second case, you have the opportunity to save time and finance, as well as be able to master new equipment repair techniques, which is always useful and relevant.
Holes in the bottom Many people do not have a large number of repair and construction tools and technology, so there is a welding machine in the garage or a workshop of each car owner. In fact, if the hole in the body is not more than a matchbox, it is quite realistic to close it yourself without welding. For this there are several ways:
- put a hole with putty
- solder a metal patch;
- seal with epoxy resin;
- apply fiberglass and glue;
- establish rivet connections;
- use galvanized metal sheet.
Galvanized sheet Method of close-up holes with putty
In the area of \u200b\u200bthe holes in the bottom, damaged coating should be removed, that is, an old layer of paint, and clean the metal, to be treated with a special preparation - rust converter. Then the working surface is degreasing and ground. Next is preparing a solution of putty homogeneous consistency. For greater efficiency, fiberglass is added to it (most often with large elements). Then the composition is neatly applied to the damaged area. Perhaps this is the most responsible part of the work. It is necessary to close the whole hole, gaps and microcracks that may arise around it. Application of the solution should occur in several stages, giving each new layer to dry.
Grinding putty To achieve maximum fixation of putty on the damaged area, the lining is applied to the opposite direction. It does not allow the solution to spread, and act in the area that needs to be repaired. If the hole in the bottom of the car is quite large enough, this repair method can also be used with the auxiliary elements. Instead of lining, a metal mesh is mounted in the area of \u200b\u200bdamage. Therefore, the putty is evenly distributed over it, filling out all the space. After the solution is finally dry, this area is treated with a painting automotive putty. Then the damaged area is painted and apply a protective film.
Putty for cars This method of climbing holes in the car is the most easy way. But experts do not recommend it to use, because the putty passes moisture and can collapse over time. Also, the holes are processed by mortar when the repair must be done urgently, and there are no other alternatives.
Solding metal patch
Skipping of a metal element into a damaged area is a method of sealing holes in the bottom or any other part of the car when you can close the hole of small sizes. To repair the machine for this technology, you need to have such tools:
- a piece of metal sheet;
- powerful soldering iron;
- flux or rust converter;
- putty;
- primer.
Materials in cars So, first is cleared the area that should be repaired, paint, rust, dirt is removed. Next, it is treated with flux and degrease. Then the measurements are made and the metal piece of the desired form is cut. Such an element fully covers the hole, and the edges will go to the shoulder. When the detail for the patch will be ready, it is attached to a soldering iron. The edges of the patchwork are then treated with flux. At the end, it is worth treating the plot of putty and brew it. When the surface is driving, paint is applied and the protective layer.
This method of embedding holes in the bottom of the car is most popular. Experts note the durability of solder patches, since the connection is quite reliable. In addition, this method can be chopped by a hole of any size. In general, soldered the patch simply, with which the newcomer does not have a lot of experience in repairing machines.
Sequence of actions with a sealing of holes in the bottom Application of fiberglass and glue
For high degree damage, the method of sealing holes with fiberglass is used. When this area is processed and cleaned from layers of paint and rust, it is necessary to cut several linings from fiberglass, sizes with a hole plus 2 centimeters. This plot should be pre-progress and give the composition to frozen.
Repair kit for cars A drying surface is applied and a mixture is fixed (polyester or epoxy resin + adhesive). The next "part" is applied and also fixed. Thus, glue all the parts from the fiberglass, overlapping them one on one. So that they do not have seen and not deformed, the lining should be placed. When resin with glue dries, you need to handle the workspace and paint it.
Fiberglass Installation of galvanizing and rivet connections
Handling holes in the bottom of the auto galvanized metal occurs quite often. The main material required for this is the iron sheet. Before installing it, it should be fixed with self-draws and smeared with mastic. It is best to use a warmary bitumen mixture. Then the galvanized and fastened with a bolt with a drill. Then you need to handle the site with special means, align the entire surface. When everything dies and the design will fix it, it should be covered with paint.
Owners of old cars often have problems with the appearance of holes in the body of the car. Such holes occur naturally due to the gear of the old metal. Any manufacturer will not give a guarantee against body corrosion for more than 12 years. Consequently, the car of 15 years ago will necessarily have traces of metal corrosion on the body, which over the years will only increase. So with time in places of corrosion, the metal can be rusted through. In this article we will tell motorists how to close the hole in the car body do it yourself, on their own.
Preparations for climbing a hole in the car body
So, you found a pass-through hole on the body of your car. Do not hurry to contact expensive masters who guarantee the high quality of their work with a guarantee that rust in this place will not appear for many more years. If you are limited in cash, such an appeal will lead you to debts and credit takes. An alternative to such a development of the situation can be an independent close up of a hole in the car body.
At first, it is necessary to prepare for climbing the hole in the body of the car. To do this, it is necessary to go to the nearest car market or in the automotive spare parts store. We need materials for working with paintwork and metal car body panels:
- Metal sheet;
- fiberglass and epoxy glue;
- big power soldering iron;
- sandpaper;
- hammer with a wooden slaughter or hammer and a wooden gasket;
- acid converter rust;
- White Spirit;
- putty, automotive enamel;
- two-component acrylic soil;
- Two-component acidic (phosphate) soil.
Next, there is a preparation on the body of the car, where the through hole was manifested due to natural corrosion. It is necessary using sandpaper thoroughly clean the surface at a distance of several centimeters around the hole in the body panel. We must remove the layer of varnish, paints, possible putty and sanding rust traces. It is necessary to carefully treat the surface around the hole with an anti-corrosion solution.
Ways to close the hole in the car body
Currently, there are two effective ways to close the hole in the car body with their own hands.
- The first method - implies the imposition of watches in the form of fiberglass treated with epoxy glue.
- The second method - the use of a metal sheet patchwork.
Overlay of fiberglass and epoxy glue
The algorithm for climbing holes in the car body using fiberglass with epoxy glue is quite simple.
- We clean the surface of the surface of the body panel around the hole. Be sure to process the purified surface with the rust converter.
- Cut at least three fiberglass patches with a size that exceed the size of the hole in the body from all sides at least 20-30 millimeters. In this case, the first patch is greater than 20-30 mm, the second patch is greater than 30-40 mm, and the third patch is 50-60 mm.
- It is necessary to impregnate every pin with epoxy glue, which will not only allow them to be glued together, but also will not allow moisture seeping outside the inside. It will also make it possible to avoid in the future bubbles under the paint in this place of the patch, which arise due to the hygroscopicity of the material. Epoxy glue levels hygroscopicity.
- The hole is stuck on the reverse side of the body panel - from the inside of the body. Fiberglass layers in epoxy glue alternately. At the same time, it is necessary to wait for drying the lower layer of the patch before gluing the upper layer.
- Next, from the outside of the body panel, stripping the surface of the peeking part of fiberglass is carried out. After that, the layer of putty is superimposed, the entire body panel with applying varnish is also maintained and painted.
Application of a metal sheet patchwork for a hole in the car body
The second way to close the hole in the car body is more reliable. Its algorithm is shown in the table below.
| Step | Description |
| 1. Cut out the metal sheet of the sheet. | We need to cut the metal sheet to be larger than 20-30 millimeters from all sides of the hole in the car body panel. |
| 2. The congestion of the patchwork made of metal. | It is necessary to conduct a patch mezzani for the body panel. You also need to be a mezzanie from the roots of the hole in the body panel on both sides. |
| 3. Shipping the boost to the body. | Taking advantage of a powerful soldering iron, you need to solder a patch from metal to the hole on the body panel. In this solder in the form of a flux it is worth using an acid-based rust converter. The contour of the pads must be solid. After the solder, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the entire surface around the sealed hole of the car body panel. |
| 4. Drowning the patch relative to the layer plane. | Outside, the hole patch on the body panel must be lower than the plane of the panel. If the patch looks out, it is necessary to drown with the help of light blows in the Cyan. It is necessary to drown the patch so that the applied layer of putty on it is not thicker than 3 millimeters. |
| 5. Applying putty on the piping. | Next, we apply a putty on the body of the body panel hole, leveling the entire surface. Before applying putty, once again it is worth treating the outer side of the patchwork by sandpaper with a large abrasive. |
| 6. Preparation of the surface for primer. | We must visually identify the site to which the mat will be applied. This site should be more emphasized plot. First we apply adhesive risks with coarse sandpaper. Next, degrease the squeezed surface with White spirit. So we remove dirt and dust. |
| 7. Applying acid primer. | It is necessary to use two-component phosphate soil. Before starting work, the primer needs to be divorced in plastic dishes. You can still use acid primer in aerosols. Only one layer of primer is applied. |
| 8. Application of acrylic primer | After 20 minutes we apply an acrylic two-component soil in 2-3 layers. Between each layer, we leave the surface for drying for 10-15 minutes. Acrylic primer can also be applied from an aerosol cartridge. The last layer of primer should be dried at least three hours. |
Sometimes before the painting of the car, having stuck another "bug", we suddenly discover the through hole formed in the corrosion process. What to do in this case? Run to a bow to the cuspist with a welding machine, or solve this problem on your own, even without a welder?
Everything, of course, depends on the general state of the car, if it is, only the local through hole, and not completely rotten body item, then proceed to its liquidation.
To begin with, the corrosion place must be cleared of rust. To do this, use various picker on a drill, or a special vinyl nozzle on a drill.
Next, proceed to the elimination of holes formed as a result of stripping rust. In case of complex cases, holes and holes of a large area, as already wrote above, it is certainly necessary to contact the help of welding and cuzer.
We will consider easier cases where the size of the hole (hole) does not exceed the size of the matchbox. You can eliminate them in two ways.
Liquidation of the hole with putty with fiberglass is not our method
Some auto masterster, or in fairness, or simply not though achieving high-quality work, try to close the corrosive opening with a fiber with glass fiber. This is certainly a very simple way, but it has one big drawback.
I will explain, since putty in its essence is hygroscopic, i.e. Shears water, then on a freshly painted car, after a couple of days or after the first rain, an ugly bubble filled with water will come out on a new coating in the scene of the former hole. This is easily ensured if you pierce it with a needle. Such an option, chickens on laughter and we are not needed such a way of repairing corrosive holes. Therefore...
We solder the patch - and this is our method!
The principle of this method is quite simple - a patch.
Cut from a piece of metal (as a "donor" you can, for example, use banks from under the auto chemistry) a patch that overlaps its hole in the body, and solder it with a powerful soldering iron, using a rust acid converter (orthophosphoric acid) as a flux, and of course Tin solder.
All steps are displayed in the picture below.
1 edges of the patchwork before soldering must be irradiated. (All places processed by the rust converter, after soldering, should be rinsed, following the instructions on the transducer label).
2 is also facing the surface (hole edges) to which the patch will be soldered.
After the patch solder (and it should be soldered, without empty intervals), it is necessary to measure whether it is over the surface of the bubble. (We do not need a bump!). You can do this with a metal ruler. If it acts, then it follows a light hammer and light blows, drown a patch (see Fig.).
The resulting small failure will be aligned with putty.
Remember! The thickness of the layer of putty should not exceed 2-3 mm otherwise in the future it can crack.
Now that all holes are brewed, and all the rye is considered to the metal, prepare the surface to the putty.
To do this, need sandpaper with abrasive size 120 (manufacturers Mirka, 3m. or similar).
Determine the size of the seats that should be mat about. They must slightly exceed the size of the switable area. And with light circular motions we apply adhesive risk. It is necessary for the putty to be, for which to stay on the surface.
After, the preparation of all places for the shit, take a cloth, White spirit and carefully process all the sandy surfaces, from excess dust, dirt, and the surface is degreased.
And now we can proceed to the responsible operation, according to prior priming. The purified surface of the metal is easily rust, so it is not recommended to leave the surface without a protective coating for more than an hour - the primer should be applied. To do this, you will need two types of soil.
Ground acid soil
The first layer of primer is phosphate, it is also acidic. As a rule, it is a two-component soil, divorce into glass or plastic dishes, as it interacts with iron removing water molecules from the surface. Also, acid soil in aerosol cylinders can be used.
Phosphate soil is applied in one or two thin layers, directly on bare metal. It quickly dries, very liquid, therefore it can give incontrolle, but in this case, nothing terrible, you can neglected. After 10-15 minutes. (Time is indicated at a temperature close to +20, at other temperatures, make an approximate adjustment) you can proceed to priming acrylic soil.
Soil acrylic soil
It should be applied in 2-3 layers with an intermediate drying of 5-10 minutes.
You can use soil from aerosol cylinders, especially if you do not have a compressor. Then all this will dry around for three hours (when applying forced infrared warming, drying time can be reduced to 20-30 minutes.).
I want to notice, on personal experience, that such patches hold back for quite a long time. I will say so, two years not the limit!
Good repair!
The operation of the car in real road conditions provokes the development of corrosion foci on the body. In particular, this is relevant with respect to cars of domestic production and inexpensive cars. Metal starts rust, the paint swells, through holes are formed. Meanwhile, body repair associated with welding works is quite expensive. Therefore, repairing an old car in auto service conditions is economically impractical. Close up small holes can be independently at home. The volume of financial investments will be minimal. The repair under consideration can be divided into several stages.
Stage of surface preparation
The start of work is to high-quality surface preparation. At the same time, the rust rust and old paint are roughly purified by a metal brush, after which the area of \u200b\u200bdamage is estimated. It is worth noting that the metal never violates strictly locally. There is always a certain amount of thinned metal, which also need to be deleted around the existing hole. The boundaries of this zone are determined by strong presses. If the metal crusts and begged under the press by pressing, it must be deleted. It is possible to cut the sections of the thinned metal using the "Bulgarian" with the cutting disk.
After the metal is frankly, the edges of the processed zone are cleaned and aligned with emery paper or the same "grinder", but already with a grinding disk. Metal around the edges of the hole should be clean and brilliant. In cases where completely clean the edges of the holes from rust fails (small cavities remain), the metal is treated with an acid converter rust. For this, the composition is applied to the corrosion areas, they give time to leak the reaction (15 to 30 minutes) after that the converter is washed away with a large amount of water, the treated area is wipe and dried.
Further work must be made immediately after the initial processing. The delay in several days in most cases leads to the emergence of new corrosion foci, to process which will have to re-on.
Direct repair stage
You can close the existing hole in various ways, the choice of which depends on the level of the load on the repaired element of the body, the size of the opening and the presence of the necessary tools and materials.
Repair by disposition of hole
The simplest performed is the method of lubing a hole with epoxy resin or fiberglass putty. Such a repair method is perfect for small holes on poor parts of the body, not too much affected by road factors. Before processing the edge of the hole, they wipe the sandpaper, creating minor scratches (risk), and degrease in gasoline, alcohol or acetone. After that, the hole is roughly embarked in the selected composition, if possible, filling the inner cavity is better if the hole is not fully filled. The filler level should remain a couple of millimeters below the main surface level.
After the fiberglass putty dries, the remaining hole is filled with a universal putty or putty for final finishes. After drying it, the surface grinding is produced, comparing the level of the main surface with the level of repair material. At the same time, grinding is made in shallow sandpaper, using a wooden grinding bar. The result of grinding should be so that the person, spending his hand at the place of repair, did not feel the bugness.
In aesthetic purposes, the place of repair can be sealed with a decorative picture or primer and tinker. However, completely hide the place of intervention at home will not be possible. To do this, it is necessary to completely repaint the body element or resort to a complex subcrace procedure for a damaged "stot".
Repair by climbing metal hole
This repair method is somewhat more complex and requiring a certain toolkit. However, in a similar way, you can repair holes, it is not possible to smell that fiberglass due to their large sizes.
To perform work, the hole is measured. After that, the patch is cut out of a separate piece of metal, 1 to 2 centimeters overlapping the hole and flowing to the strong metal area, the patch is adjusted in shape, align the edges and purify them from sharp burrs. After that, around the edges of the patch drill holes, the distance between which should be about one centimeter.
Before installing the patchwork, the repaired area is treated with anti-corrosion compositions and sealant. You can also process the lower part of the patch. The processed insert is pressed to the installation site, fixed. After that, fasten with the help of metal screws through in advance the drilled holes. The fixation fortress is sufficient for elements that do not undergo significant loads, and the sealant treatment prevents moisture penetration through the gap.
After the patch is fixed, the protruding heads of the screws are almost fully rated by the Bulgarian. However, the residual thickness of the cap should not be below 0, 4 - 0.5 mm. Otherwise, the patch simply flies from the mounts. The patch itself and the adjacent plot deepen with the help of a hammer, after which the repair plot is putty and tinted.
Repair by brewing hole
This method is the most correct of all listed. At the same time, the patch is fixed not with self-draws, but welding. You can do it by points through the drilled holes. In this case, the mount is obtained more durable and inconspicuous. After the welding work is completed, the patch also blend and put off.
For welding work on the car it is better to use welding - semi-automatic. The work of the arc inverter is also possible, but the welding seam is obtained more coarse, requiring significant subsequent processing. In addition, the thin car metal just roasted under the influence of the electrode.
End of work
Before the shtailing, it is necessary to apply a layer of anti-corrosion soil or reversible mastic on a fixed composite. The putty is applied only after it is complete drying and processing sandpaper with risk creation. Universal putty or several types of specialized putty can be used for shtlock. After drying the applied compositions, the plot is grinding to achieve the perfect coincidence of the main and repair surface.
Before the tint section degreases and apply another layer of anti-corrosion primer. After drying it, a tint is made in several layers. Paints of the Metallic type must also be covered with transparent varnish. It is done until the moment of complete drying of the paint, after 15 - 20 minutes after applying its last layer.
To make the repair plot less noticeable, paint is applied without painting tape, avoiding the appearance of a clear boundary of the painted area. In this case, the transition is obtained more smooth. It is only necessary to stick to those sites, paints to which are undesirable (glass, door handles, headlights, chrome elements).
The choice of paint is a huge topic, to reveal that in the format of one of the sections of this article is not possible. However, there are several of the most pressing councils for independently conducting this event.
1. The cost of selecting and creating paint, exactly the corresponding color of the car, is quite high. In various shops, it can vary from 3 to 5 - 6 thousand rubles per kilogram. However, when repairing old cars, they are not necessarily as accuracy of the same paint. In most cases, it is enough to remove the hatch (the only painted part, the removal of which takes no more than a minute) of the gas tank and come to the store. Sellers without problems will select paint with special color sheets. This paint will have minimal differences from the car's native paint, not noticeable without a close inspection.
2. To select paint, you should not take plastic painted elements in the store. Due to the characteristics of the material, the paint on them can be quite significantly different from such on the metal parts of the body.
3. It is better to use the paint designed for the spray gun
