If something is wrong with the Mazda 6, then the "Check-Engene" does not go out, or it lights up again after a while. It can also blink, which clearly indicates a serious malfunction. This indicator will not tell the Mazda owner what the problem is, it draws attention to the fact that a Mazda 6 engine diagnosis is required.
Since all foreign cars, not excluding Mazda 6, are tightly tied to electronics, a huge number of sensors monitor the operation of the car. Therefore, diagnostics of the Mazda 6 engine is, by and large, checking the most important unit of the car, with the exception of the suspension, which is checked mechanically.
There is a large number of specialized equipment for diagnosing a Mazda 6 engine. There are compact and fairly versatile scanners that not only professionals can afford. But there are times when conventional portable scanners do not detect malfunctions in the Mazda 6 engine, then diagnostics must be carried out exclusively with licensed software and a scanner from Mazda.
Mazda Diagnostic Scanner Shows:
- Throttle valve opening percentage;
- Engine speed in rpm;
- Mazda 6 engine temperature;
- Voltage in the Mazda 6 on-board network;
- The temperature of the air sucked into the engine;
- Ignition timing of Mazda 6;
- Fuel injection time by the injector. Displayed in milliseconds;
- Readings of the Mazda 6 air flow sensor;
- Mazda 6 oxygen sensor readings;
1. To diagnose the Mazda 6 engine, first of all, the engine compartment is inspected visually. A serviceable engine should not have any leaks of technical fluids, be it oil, coolant, brake fluid. In general, it is important to periodically clean the Mazda 6 engine from dust, sand, dirt, this is necessary not only for aesthetics, but also for normal heat dissipation!
2. Checking the oil level and condition of the Mazda 6 engine, the second step of testing. To do this, you need to pull out the dipstick, and also look at the oil by unscrewing the filler cap. If the oil is black, and even worse black and thick, then this indicates that the oil has changed for a long time.
If there is a white emulsion on the filler cap or you can see how the oil foams, then this may indicate that water or coolant has entered the oil.
3. Checking Mazda spark plugs 6. Remove all plugs from the engine; they can be checked one at a time. They must be dry. If the candles are covered with a slight layer of yellowish or light brown carbon deposits, then you should not worry, such carbon deposits are quite normal and permissible, and do not affect the work.
If there are traces of liquid oil on the Mazda 6 spark plugs, then the piston rings or valve stem seals are likely to be replaced. Black carbon deposits indicate an over-enriched fuel mixture. The reason is improper operation of the Mazda fuel system, or a too clogged air filter. The main symptom will be increased fuel consumption.
Red plaque on Mazda 6 spark plugs is formed due to low-quality gasoline, which contains a large amount of metal particles (for example, manganese, which increases the octane number of the fuel). Such a plaque conducts current well, which means that with a significant layer of this plaque, the current will flow through it without forming a spark.
4. The ignition coil of the Mazda 6 does not fail often, most often this happens due to old age, insulation is damaged and a short circuit occurs. It is better to change the coils in accordance with the mileage according to the regulations. But it happens that a breakdown is caused by bad candles or punctured high-voltage wires. To check the Mazda coil, it must be removed.
After removal, you need to make sure that the insulation is intact, there should be no black spots or cracks. Next, a multimeter should go into the course, if the coil is burnt out, then the device will show the maximum possible value. You should not check the Mazda 6 coil using the old-fashioned method for the presence of a spark between the spark plugs and the metal part of the car. This method takes place in old cars, while on Mazda 6, due to such manipulations, not only the coil can burn out, but also the entire electrics of the car.
5. Is it possible to diagnose a malfunction of the engine by smoke from the exhaust pipe of a Mazda 6? Exhaust can tell a lot about the condition of an engine. In the warm season, no thick or bluish smoke should be visible from a serviceable car.
If white smoke is visible, then this may indicate a burnt-out gasket or leakage in the cooling system of the Mazda 6. If the smoke is black, then at best it is a problem due to an over-enriched fuel mixture. At worst, problems with the piston group.
If the smoke has a bluish tint, it indicates that the Mazda 6 engine is using oil. At best, it will require replacing the valve stem seals, at worst, repairing the piston group. All this fumes greatly clog and reduce the life of the Mazda 6 catalyst, which cannot cope with cleaning such impurities.
6. Diagnostics of the Mazda 6 engine by sound. Sound is a gap, this is what the theory of mechanics says. There are gaps in almost all moving joints. This small gap contains an oil film that prevents parts from touching. But over time, the gap expands, the oily film can no longer be distributed evenly, friction of the Mazda 6 engine parts occurs, as a result of which very intense wear begins.
Each node in the Mazda 6 engine has a specific sound:
- A clear, frequent sound heard at all engine speeds indicates the need to adjust the valves;
- An even knock, which does not depend on the speed, is caused by the valve-distributor mechanism, which indicates the wear of its elements;
- A distinct short knock, increasing at higher rpm, warns of the imminent end of the connecting rod bearing.
7. Diagnostics of the Mazda engine cooling system 6. With proper operation of the cooling system and sufficient heat dissipation, after starting the engine, the liquid circulates only in a small circle through the stove radiator, which contributes to the rapid warming up of both the engine itself and the Mazda 6 interior in the cold season.
When the normal operating temperature of the Mazda 6 engine is reached (about 60-80 degrees), the valve opens slightly to a large circle, i.e. the liquid partially flows into the radiator, where it gives off heat through it. If the critical level is reached under 100 degrees, the Mazda 6 thermostat opens to the full, and the entire volume of fluid passes through the radiator.
Together with this, the radiator fan of the Mazda 6 turns on, it contributes to better blowing out of hot air between the radiator cells. Overheating can damage the engine and require costly repairs.
8. Typical malfunctions of the Mazda 6 cooling system. If the fan does not work when the critical temperature is reached, then first of all it is necessary to check the fuse, then the Mazda 6 fan itself and the integrity of the wires to it are examined. But the problem may turn out to be more global, perhaps the temperature sensor (thermostat) is out of order.
The performance of the Mazda 6 thermostat is checked as follows: the engine is preheated, a hand is applied to the bottom of the thermostat, if it is hot, then it is in good working order.
More serious problems may arise: pump failure, leakage or clogging of the Mazda 6 radiator, breakage of the valve in the filler cap. If problems arose after replacing the coolant, then most likely an air lock is to blame.
Many motorists are wondering what the optimal, that is, the operating temperature of the engine, should be. The question is far from unambiguous and here a lot depends on its design features. So for any person, the normal temperature is 36.6 degrees, providing its owner with a healthy existence, when all life processes proceed without any deviations. So for automobile engines there is a design temperature at which they are able to work stably, with full power output, in an economical mode for a long time.
Why is the heating operating range considered optimal?
The combustion process of the air-fuel mixture in the cylinders is accompanied by the release of a large amount of heat, since the temperature in the combustion chamber is about 2000 degrees and higher. The task of the cooling system is to maintain optimal thermal conditions in the range of 80-90 degrees. For some types of power plants, temperatures up to 110 degrees can be normal, more often on air-cooled motors.
Optimum temperature conditions provide better cylinder filling, start-up and reliable operation of the vehicle.
Heat
Structurally, the engine provides for thermal gaps when its parts are heated when they are subject to expansion. When heated in excess of the permissible value, a violation of the gaps occurs, which causes intense wear, scuffing and various kinds of breakdowns. In addition, there is a decrease in power due to the deterioration of the filling of the cylinders, as well as the appearance of detonation and self-ignition of the fuel.
In the photo - checking the thermal clearances of the valves
The main reasons for the increase in the temperature of the power plant:
Loose tension or breakage of the drive belt for additional mechanisms;
Depressurization of the cooling system.
Operating temperature does not rise
Incomplete is also undesirable. The surface of the cylinders is not heated and the fuel in contact with the cold walls condenses and enters the crankcase, diluting the oil located there, which leads to intensive wear of both the CPG and all friction pairs. The main thing is the crankshaft journals and liners, as well as the camshaft bed and the shaft itself, as well as the intermediate (pig) and balance shafts, etc.
Plus, when working on an unheated engine, this is especially true in winter (a large amount of condensation on the inner surfaces of the CPG) when traveling over short distances, additives in the oil practically do not come into operation, without performing the role of protection.
In addition, the unheated one is more thickened and is no longer fully supplied to the friction pairs, causing wear on the cylinder walls, plus fuel consumption increases and, accordingly, the power of the power plant decreases.
Low temperature reasons:
Hanging of the thermostat valve in the open position;
Frequent short-distance travel;
The thermostat or temperature sensor is colder than the manufacturer's specifications.
Working thermal conditions
When the thermal regime is in a given operating range, then all processes proceed without any deviations, the motor is not in danger and only its natural wear occurs.
Engine types and temperature conditions
There are low and high boosted, as well as "cold" and "hot" types of power units, where the working processes of fuel combustion proceed according to different laws.
The temperature at which the thermostat valve is triggered, when the liquid is able to circulate in a large circle (for cooling after removing the temperature from the water jacket), in fact, will be the optimal temperature.
In this case, the heating parameters will be different, which directly depends on the calibration of the factory thermostat and the temperature sensor for triggering the electric fan, that is, what the manufacturer installed on the conveyor.
So for engines of even one car brand, for example, the VAZ model, where the working heating of the coolant is different for carburetor and injection models. Here again, everything depends on the calibration of the thermostat provided by the developers and on the type of cooling system.
Features of cooling systems and their effect on temperature conditions
Liquid cooling systems are divided into two types:
Open;
Closed (sealed).
The open-type system communicates directly with the outside air, that is, air can constantly enter and exit the system in the form of steam. The boiling point of the coolant is 100 degrees.
The closed system is connected to the atmosphere through special valves mounted in the radiator cap or expansion tank cap. The release of hot air and steam occurs only with a strong increase in pressure in the system.
In the photo - a closed-type cooling system
In a closed system, the pressure and boiling point of antifreeze are significantly higher, which is about 110-120 degrees Celsius.
The disadvantage of a closed system is a sharp increase in engine heating in case of depressurization of the system and failure of valves in the expansion tank cap. This is due to the fact that the system is under high pressure and in the event of a leak, most of the liquid will immediately be thrown out.
If the valves in the tank lid are faulty, the liquid begins to boil, which also leads to a critical motor, followed by complex and expensive repairs.
Ecology and engine resource
When, for the sake of environmental standards, they began to raise the thermal regime of the engine for complete combustion of the fuel, it turned out that other oils were also needed, since the oil that had taken place simply could not provide its full protection at high temperatures. This negatively affected the resource of power plants that were not designed to operate in such temperature conditions.
Favorable thermal conditions
The optimal thermal regime within 85-90 degrees provides fuel economy and minimal wear of parts in various conditions and operating modes.
To keep the cooling system always in working order, we recommend that you periodically undergo its diagnostics for trouble-free operation of your car.
The “D” class car Mazda 6 is on the same model line with Ford Mondeo, Skoda Superb, Toyota Camry and other popular models.
As a power unit, the Mazda 6 received 1.8, 2.0 and 2.5 liter motors, standard for the brand.
Ford-Mazda 1.8l engine. Duratec-HE / MZR L8
The Duratec-HE / MZR L8 power unit is also called the Mazda MZR L8 and was created by the Japanese as an evolution of the Mazda F series of engines. Prior to this, Ford installed Duratec-HE / MZR L8 on Mondeo models, but later the engine was improved, they installed an intake manifold channel management system, a direct ignition system, electronic throttle valves and more.
The 1.8-liter Duratec has a timing chain drive, which increases its reliability.
Among the engine shortcomings are floating rpm at XX, which are solved by flushing the throttle valve or changing the firmware.
Also, the Duratec-HE / MZR L8 is characterized by triplets, vibrations, knocks and noises. In general, the engine is characterized as problematic and it is better to choose cars with a two-liter version. 3+
Ford-Mazda 2.0l Duratec HE / MZR LF engine
The design of the Duratec HE / MZR LF 2.0L engine largely repeats the 1.8-liter version, but the cylinder diameter in them is already 87.5 mm. The MZR engine was developed by Mazda engineers for the LF models and used by Ford in a collaboration.
If we compare the 2.0-liter version with the 1.8-liter counterpart, then the larger engine is the best in all respects. It works more powerful, but quietly and smoothly, there is no floating speed.
The timing chain drive increases the reliability of the unit and is designed for up to 250 thousand kilometers of operation.
The disadvantages include premature wear of the camshaft oil seals.
The thermostat often fails, which affects the engine temperature.
It is imperative to control the candle wells to avoid oil ingress.
The absence of hydraulic lifters forces the valve clearances to be adjusted every 150 thousand km.
At the same time, the 2.0-liter Duratec HE / MZR LF is characterized positively and is considered one of the best among Ford Duratec engines. 4
Mazda SkyActiv-G 2.0 engine
The SkyActiv-G 2.0 powertrain entered the first series and appeared in 2011, replacing the Ford Duratec. SkyActiv has decent power ratings - up to 165 hp, but in some markets its performance is "stifled" to 150 for the sake of tax payments. At the same time, the motor has become more economical.
The SkyActiv-G 2.0 engine received direct fuel injection, an IFGR system on two shafts, hydraulic lifters and a lightweight ShPG.
Among the negative reviews are noise on XX and vibrations that disappear after the engine warms up.
More significant deficiencies have not yet been found.
If you choose an engine for large models such as the Mazda CX-5 or Mazda 6, then it is preferable to stop at the 2.5-liter version. 4+
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Engines |
Ford-Mazda 1.8L Duratec-HE / MZR L8 |
Ford-Mazda 2.0 L Duratec HE / MZR LF |
Mazda SkyActiv-G 2.0 |
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Production |
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Engine brand |
Duratec HE / MZR LF |
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Years of release |
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Cylinder block material |
aluminum |
Aluminum |
aluminum |
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Supply system |
injector |
Injector |
injector |
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Number of cylinders |
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Valves per cylinder |
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Piston stroke, mm |
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Cylinder diameter, mm |
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Compression ratio |
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Engine displacement, cubic cm |
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Engine power, hp / rpm |
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Torque, Nm / rpm |
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Environmental standards |
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Engine weight, kg |
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Fuel consumption, l / 100 km (for Celica GT) |
8.1 |
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Oil consumption, gr. / 1000 km |
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Engine oil |
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How much oil is in the engine |
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Oil change is carried out, km |
15000 |
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Engine operating temperature, deg. |
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Engine resource, thousand km |
n.d. |
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Tuning |
There is no data there is no data |
there is no data there is no data |
n.d. |
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The engine was installed |
Ford C-Max Mk I |
Ford S-Max Ford Focus Mk II |
Mazda 6 (2008+). Antifreeze boils in an expansion tank
1. Low level of antifreeze... The cooling system not filled to the required level does not cope with its task, therefore the temperature exceeds the critical one and the liquid boils.
2. Broken cooling fan... Its function is to forcibly cool the elements of the system of the same name and the fluid. It is clear that if the fan does not turn on, the temperature will not drop and this may result in the antifreeze liquid boiling. This situation is especially critical for the warm season.
3. The presence of an airlock... The main reason for its appearance is the depressurization of the cooling system. As a result, several factors harmful to it arise at once. In particular, the pressure drops, which means that the boiling point of the antifreeze also decreases. Further, with prolonged presence of air in the system, the inhibitors that are part of the antifreeze deteriorate and do not perform their protective function. Finally, the coolant level drops. This has already been mentioned earlier.
4. Poor quality coolant... It is the most common problem for drivers who have "saved" on antifreeze. The fact is that low-quality antifreeze, bought from an unscrupulous manufacturer at a low price, is diluted with water. And since the boiling point of water is lower than that of antifreeze, this means that there is a risk of boiling. This happens especially often when the engine is stopped.
5. Cylinder head gasket... A burnt-out gasket also often causes the antifreeze to boil, as it breaks the tightness of the cooling system. To determine if it is faulty, you can start the engine and ask the assistant to slowly move under load. If air bubbles appear in the tank, then this is a clear sign of a gasket malfunction, which can only be replaced. There may also be residual coolant in the vehicle exhaust. The level of antifreeze, at the same time, is significantly reduced.
6. Other problems of the cooling system... These include: a water pump from another manufacturer, increased contamination of the radiator and the absence of a normal air flow. The latter malfunction is often encountered with fans installed on a water pump. If you use such a fan without a special casing, then it will blow hot air, which is collected from the engine compartment. Therefore, the use of a cover on such a fan is mandatory.
In the case of a water pump from another manufacturer, its blades may turn out to be noticeably less than the norm, which is why there is a lack of pressure in the system. It just needs to be replaced, however, diagnosing such a malfunction is quite problematic.
7. Faulty thermostat... The thermostat at a temperature of about 90 degrees opens the valve and "passes" the coolant to a large circle of the cooling system. It happens that the valve simply does not open and the liquid moves only in a small circle, which causes boiling. Diagnostics of such a malfunction is carried out by measuring the temperature of the large circle nozzles. If they are cold, then the malfunction really touched the thermostat and it needs to be replaced.
8. Antifreeze must be changed... This is the safest reason for boiling. The fact is that antifreeze tends to change its chemical composition during prolonged operation, which will certainly lead to a change in its boiling point, as well as a deterioration in its cooling properties. In this case, it just needs to be replaced. Poor quality antifreeze. If a low-quality antifreeze is poured into the car, that is, a liquid that does not meet the necessary requirements, which means there is a high probability that the radiator will boil. In particular, we are talking about the fact that counterfeit coolant often boils at temperatures below + 100 ° C.
9. Defective radiator... The function of this unit is to cool the antifreeze and keep the cooling system in good working order. However, it can get mechanical damage or simply clog from the inside or outside.
10. Breakdown of the pump (centrifugal pump)... Since the task of this mechanism is to pump coolant, then when it fails, its circulation stops, and the volume of liquid that is in the immediate vicinity of the engine begins to heat up strongly and, as a result, boils.
11. Breakdown of the temperature sensor... Everything is simple here. This node did not send appropriate commands to the thermostat and / or fan. They did not turn on and the cooling system and radiator boiled.
12. Foaming antifreeze... This can happen for a variety of reasons. For example, poor quality coolant, mixing incompatible antifreezes, using an unsuitable antifreeze for the car, damage to the cylinder block gasket, which causes air to enter the cooling system, and as a result, its chemical reaction with coolant with the formation of foam.
13. Depressurization of the tank lid... The problem can be both in the failure of the safety relief valve and in the depressurization of the cover gasket. Moreover, this applies to both the expansion tank cap and the radiator cap. Because of this, the pressure in the cooling system becomes equal to atmospheric pressure, and therefore, the boiling point of the antifreeze decreases.
WHAT TO DO IF THE ENGINE IS OVERHEATED
To understand that the engine has overheated, look at the coolant temperature gauge. If its temperature exceeds the norm, then you must immediately stop on the side of the road and turn off the engine, turn on the alarm and set the warning triangle. By the way, it is worth noting that some engines may continue to run after the ignition is turned off. This mode is emergency, therefore, quickly engage the first gear, depress the brake and suddenly release the clutch pedal. Such an action negatively affects the clutch disc, but it will save you from engine breakdowns.
Open the hood of the car so the engine will cool down much faster. This is where the first aid to the boiling engine ends. Further, motorists make gross mistakes.
Firstly, in no case should you open the cap of the radiator or expansion tank. Since boiling occurs in the cylinder block, an open tank can provoke a sufficiently powerful ejection of boiling liquid outward, which inevitably leads to burns to the hands and face.
Second, do not pour cold water on a hot engine. The temperature difference almost always leads to the fact that the cylinder block can crack and then expensive repairs cannot be avoided.
Do not take any action until boiling stops. Only then can you take a rag and carefully open the cover of the expansion tank, throwing off, at the same time, the residual pressure in the system. After that, fill the missing amount of coolant into the tank, while being careful not to get onto the cylinder block or its head.
Start the car engine and watch the coolant temperature change. If it rises quickly enough, then further movement to a service station or garage is possible only on a cable. If it is slow, then you can get to the garage or service station on your own, while trying not to make high revolutions and do not load the engine.
By following these simple rules, you can avoid costly engine repairs and maintain your health when working with hot cooling elements.
