Owners of old cars often have problems with the appearance of holes in the body of the car. Such holes occur naturally due to the gear of the old metal. Any manufacturer will not give a guarantee against body corrosion for more than 12 years. Consequently, the car of 15 years ago will necessarily have traces of metal corrosion on the body, which over the years will only increase. So with time in places of corrosion, the metal can be rusted through. In this article we will tell motorists how to close the hole in the car body do it yourself, on their own.
Preparations for climbing a hole in the car body
So, you found a pass-through hole on the body of your car. Do not hurry to contact expensive masters who guarantee the high quality of their work with a guarantee that rust in this place will not appear for many more years. If you are limited in cashSuch an appeal will lead you to debt and making loans. An alternative to such a development of the situation can be an independent close up of a hole in the car body.
At first, it is necessary to prepare for climbing the hole in the body of the car. To do this, it is necessary to go to the nearest car market or in the automotive spare parts store. We need materials for working with paintwork and metal car body panels:
- Metal sheet;
- fiberglass and epoxy glue;
- big power soldering iron;
- sandpaper;
- hammer with a wooden slaughter or hammer and a wooden gasket;
- acid converter rust;
- White Spirit;
- putty, automotive enamel;
- two-component acrylic soil;
- Two-component acidic (phosphate) soil.
Next, the site preparations on the car body, where it manifested through hole Due to natural corrosion. It is necessary using sandpaper thoroughly clean the surface at a distance of several centimeters around the hole in the body panel. We must remove the layer of varnish, paints, possible putty and sanding rust traces. It is necessary to carefully treat the surface around the hole with an anti-corrosion solution.
Ways to close the hole in the car body
Currently there are two effective way Close up of a hole in the car body do it yourself.
- The first method - implies the imposition of watches in the form of fiberglass treated with epoxy glue.
- The second method - the use of a metal sheet patchwork.
Overlay of fiberglass and epoxy glue
The algorithm for climbing holes in the car body using fiberglass with epoxy glue is quite simple.
- We clean the surface of the surface of the body panel around the hole. Be sure to process the purified surface by the rust converter.
- Cut at least three fiberglass patches with a size that exceed the size of the hole in the body from all sides at least 20-30 millimeters. In this case, the first patch is greater than 20-30 mm, the second patch is greater than 30-40 mm, and the third patch is 50-60 mm.
- It is necessary to impregnate every pin with epoxy glue, which will not only allow them to be glued together, but also will not allow moisture seeping outside the inside. It will also make it possible to avoid in the future bubbles under the paint in this place of the patch, which arise due to the hygroscopicity of the material. Epoxy glue levels hygroscopicity.
- The hole is stuck on the reverse side of the body panel - from the inside of the body. Fiberglass layers in epoxy glue alternately. At the same time, it is necessary to wait for drying the lower layer of the patch before gluing the upper layer.
- Next, from the outside of the body panel, stripping the surface of the peeking part of fiberglass is carried out. After that, the layer of putty is superimposed, the entire body panel with applying varnish is also maintained and painted.
Application of a metal sheet patchwork for a hole in the car body
The second way to close the hole in the car body is more reliable. Its algorithm is shown in the table below.
| Step | Description |
| 1. Cut out the metal sheet of the sheet. | We need to cut the metal sheet to be larger than 20-30 millimeters from all sides of the hole in the car body panel. |
| 2. The congestion of the patchwork made of metal. | It is necessary to conduct a patch mezzani for the body panel. You also need to be a mezzanie from the roots of the hole in the body panel on both sides. |
| 3. Shipping the boost to the body. | Taking advantage of a powerful soldering iron, you need to solder a patch from metal to the hole on the body panel. In this solder in the form of a flux it is worth using an acid-based rust converter. The contour of the pads must be solid. After the solder, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the entire surface around the sealed hole of the car body panel. |
| 4. Drowning the patch relative to the layer plane. | Outside, the hole patch on the body panel must be lower than the plane of the panel. If the patch looks out, it is necessary to drown with the help of light blows in the Cyan. It is necessary to drown the patch so that the applied layer of putty on it is not thicker than 3 millimeters. |
| 5. Applying putty on the piping. | Next, we apply a putty on the body of the body panel hole, leveling the entire surface. Before applying putty, once again it is worth treating the outer side of the patchwork by sandpaper with a large abrasive. |
| 6. Preparation of the surface for primer. | We must visually identify the site to which the mat will be applied. This site should be more emphasized plot. First we apply adhesive risks with coarse sandpaper. Next, degrease the squeezed surface with White spirit. So we remove dirt and dust. |
| 7. Applying acid primer. | It is necessary to use two-component phosphate soil. Before starting work, the primer needs to be divorced in plastic dishes. You can still use acid primer in aerosols. Only one layer of primer is applied. |
| 8. Application of acrylic primer | After 20 minutes we apply an acrylic two-component soil in 2-3 layers. Between each layer, we leave the surface for drying for 10-15 minutes. Acrylic primer can also be applied from an aerosol cartridge. The last layer of primer should be dried at least three hours. |
The restoration of integrity I. external view The car using welding is often economically inexpedient, and sometimes impossible or unreliable. Then apply ways to repair the bodies without welding. Bearing elements in this way restored not recommended, especially since.
Rubbling ways of repair
Almost all work on the body without the use of welding refer to the discharge of non-professional. They are not the result of any developments in this area, based on the use of the properties of certain materials and substances, do not have a clear technology, verified and regulated by the relevant institutions, organizations, regulations and gta stations. This is the fetus of folk wisdom and the seven of domestic craftsmen, initiated by the specific conditions of our life. For example, in Europe, no one will come to mind trying to repair damaged detail Body or broken car - they are simply changed to new ones. These methods are oriented, first of all, to eliminate end-to-end damage to the facial surfaces and the bottom of the car.
General requirements, the rules are as follows. If necessary, cut or expand the damaged place is used by the grinder. The repaired area is cleaned of paint, rust, dirt. Treated with anticorrosive or zinc, degrease. After seeling the hole at the point of repair, the surface of the desired configuration is formed, if necessary, use a painting auto-suck. Then prepare the body to paint.
Use putty with fiberglass. It happens the following types:
- with fine fiberglass;
- with medium;
- with large.
For sealing through damage, a composition with large fibers is used. The method is suitable for small holes or when significant damage is arranged in the area of \u200b\u200bconstructive "pockets" that protect large masses of putty from sprinkling (for example, the front of the hood over the radiator grille). To fix the composition during work, you can use lining that are installed on the reverse side of damage. Shp clashing is the most unreliable way. Used, mainly in extreme cases for urgent repairs and when there are no other alternatives.
Before starting the work, the cleaned metal of the body is soaked. When mixing spacing with a hardener, bubbles should be avoided. The composition is missing first inside, and then lay on top. When damage to significant sizes, work is carried out in several stages. They give the opportunity to dry by one layer, then superimpose the following. Drying occurs in a natural way.
Using the aluminum mesh allows you to repair more significant damage. It is applied to the hole and fix the scotch. At the end of the work, Scotch is cleaned.
Fiberglass and glue
With more serious damage, fiberglass and adhesive composition are used, which is prepared from epoxy or polyester resin. Fiberglass use for reinforcing the marks. This method is more reliable than the previous one also requires pre-priming.
From the fiberglass, several linings are cut on the shape of the hole. The size of the first provides overlap of damage to the bracket by 2 cm. Subsequent pieces of fiberglass more than previous ones, the latter completely closes the prepared bare metal of the repaired area.
The linings are impregnated with glue and set, or applied to the damaged surface with the applied glue in ascending order of the sizes. So that the fabric during work has not saved, with a significant hole in size, the linings are installed. At the end of the work, the resin give time to dry and grab. The method is suitable for small damage.
Soldering
Used to eliminate the damage of large sizes. The metal sheet is tightly pressed to the body, the connection with which is produced by the solder. To ensure the strength of the soldering use flux. This method is quite easy to implement and even a newcomer; For reliability - something mean between welding and gluing. Solder and flux are selected on the basis of alloys of the metal connected. Perform a soldering electric soldering iron of high power.
Basic disadvantages:
- relatively high cost (due to the big price of solder);
- the compound is not solid enough (welding is much more reliable).
Patch from metal should completely close the hole. Before the start of work, the soldering place on the pad and the body is listened to (processed by soldering with a flux by the soldering iron). The larger the area of \u200b\u200bthe meadow and the soldering, the more reliable the connection. If the soldering pad strongly performs, it is aligned on the surface of the car's details with a hammer. The resulting dent close the putty.
Rivets
Riveting compounds are used in the production of body - this is a fairly reliable way of repair. Allows you to repair large areas of damage, change one-piece details (wings, aprons, for example). Fastening locations should be desirable to be at an invisible place. This method when repairing floors is better than welding, which in this case is quite unreliable.
The damaged area is cut out, and a new piece of metal or a fragment of the part is put on its place. Rivets should be steel - they are stronger and will not create conditions for electrochemical corrosion, in contrast to aluminum. Diameter 5 mm, for loaded places (in spars) - 6 mm. When replacing parts and their fragments, rivets put, focusing on the point of factory welding. Before installing the rivet color. A special device will be required - a riveter.
other methods
The bottom can be repaired using galvanized sheets and bolts. The damaged area is cut out. Two pieces of galvanized are cut out - outdoor and internal. The floor is labeled with bitumen mastics on both sides. Isolation should dry. Distribution sheets before installation are also treated with mastic. The lower fragment is installed, it is fixed by it with self-draws, the protruding parts of which are cut into the cabin. Apply an inner sheet of metal. The design is fastened with bolts (suitable M5 x 15). The fixation is performed in series around the perimeter to avoid the wounding of sheets.
For repair large dents The threshold requiring it is replaced, you can apply the following. Several holes drill in the threshold, insert the tool into them, which are straightened by the rumped plot. The holes are eliminated by one of the above method and together with the residual dent prepare for painting.
Repairs rusty body do it yourself "\u003e
How to get rid of rust on is a question that most owners of used cars are worried. There are not many options, go to the maintenance station, or do a problem on your own. Many people do not know how to fight rust on the car body, so often they just smear paint, but this method does not save for a long time, but the rust is not fatal, so we consider ways to get rid of it.
Rust not through
Body has small holes
Hammer solder
Application of poplats
We remove rust from the car body - a step-by-step description from "A" to "I"
Corrosion sooner or later may appear on any car, and the sooner you start fighting it, the less the body will suffer. But how to get rid of rust so that on the affected area she no longer appeared and at the same time the car returned an attractive look? Phased description Rust removal process with subsequent protection of body corrosion We have prepared for you in the article.
1 Body preparation, or where to get started?
Before removing the foci of rust from the body, it is necessary to thoroughly wash it so that the car's surface is perfectly clean. The fact is that the affected areas are poorly visible on the dirty surface, besides, without compliance with this requirement it is impossible to qualitatively follow the subsequent finish and protection of metal from corrosion.
If access to the affected corrosion is hampered by access due to other parts, they must be dismantled. It may be a bumper, molding, turn signal, emblem, etc. In addition, the surfaces around the affected rust area must be saved by painting scotch, so as not to damage them in the process of work and not stain paint. This prepared actions end.
2 Body repair materials - Tools
To high quality and quickly get rid of home from rust on the car body, you must prepare the following set of tools:
- angle grinding machine or even an ordinary electric drill with a special nozzle in the form of a metal brush;
- sandpaper with abrasive P120, P600 and P1000;
- rust converter type "zincar";
- degreaser;
- polyester resin for lamination and glass cholester.
- anticorrosive primer;
- putchal with fiberglass;
- spacure without filler (finish);
- paint.
I must say that there are repair kits for the fight against rust, such as "zincor-car". They contain three components - the rust converter, a degreaser and an anti-corrosion coating, as a rule, based on zinc. Such sets allow to eliminate small foci of corrosion.
3 We remove corrosion with minimal loss of forces and time
As you know, there are two methods of combating corrosion:
The greatest effect can be achieved if you fight rust comprehensive. Therefore, we will further apply both methods at once.
We start working with mechanical processing of rusty places. To do this, it is better to use the grinder or an electric drill, as it is high enough to clean it hard and long. Rust must be removed with the old paint and the layer of old soil, i.e. It is necessary to work before the appearance of a pure shiny metal not only on an affected rust plot, but also a plot around it, a width around centimeter-two. When the surface is cleaned, pass the P600 sandpaper from above, if necessary, clean the hard-to-reach places manually.
If you do not have the power tool at hand, you will have to eliminate the paint manually. To do this, use the skin with a grain P120. Then make the P600 brand in the skurt. If the metal rotted through, it is necessary to expand the hole to the "live" metal. The prepared surface is then treated with rust converter. Chemical Allows you to get rid of microscopic traces of corrosion.
Do not use more rough sandpaper than P120, as it will leave deep scratches on the surface, which will have to put out.
Before using the composition, shake it carefully. Then, with the help of a sprayer, tassels or even rags, apply a liquid so that the surface is carefully moocked. After that, stop working and wait until the composition is completely dry. Next, process the surface with a metal brush to remove the residues of the converter that did not react, as well as the transformed sandpaper.
For the greatest effect, the procedure must be repeated. At the end of operation, the processed area must be thoroughly rinsed with water and then wipe dry with a cloth. Note that this is a mandatory requirement that cannot be neglected.
By this principle, process all rusty points on the surface of the car.
Most often, corrosion appears on the doors under moldings, where dirt and moisture accumulates, as well as on the thresholds. Therefore, dismantle all the attached parts on these areas, as the rust can be hidden under them.
4 We restore the damaged area
So, with the removal of rust, we successfully coped. Now it is necessary to immediately begin the anti-corrosion processing of the prepared area, otherwise, after a few days, new traces of corrosion will begin to appear on the surface. Work is starting with metal wip degreasing. To do this, simply feed the rags in the liquid and then wipe the stripped metal.
Next, it is necessary to apply anticorrosive soil on the surface. It not only protects the metal from corrosion, but also improve adhesion between the base and putty or paint and varnish material. The soil is applied using a sprayer or ordinary brush. After drying the first layer, apply the second layer and then the third one. Read more about the use of soil, read in the instructions from the manufacturer. The fact is that different soils have their own nuances that need to be considered when applied. Thus, treat the primer all stripped from corrosion space.
Anticorrosive primer allows you to stop the process of corrosion development. Therefore, if necessary, after its application, you can take a break in work, but it's not worth it anyway.
After that, you need to close holes, if, of course, they are available. For sealing a small hole, use the fiberglass putty. Apply it with a spatula as an ordinary solid surface. Due to the sufficiently thick consistency and the presence of fiberglass in the structure, it will not fall into the hole.
If the hole is more, with a diameter of 2-3 cm, with the back of the metal, you can put the greasy tape. If the hole is large, i.e. More than 3-4 cm in diameter, it can be sealed with a glassball, which is glued with a polyester resin. To do this, pre-cut the glass of the glass bag so that it will be placed on the 5-10 centimeters to overlap intact metal. Then mix the resin with the hardener, as a rule, the latter is added in an amount of 3% of the amount of resin.
Keep in mind that the "vitality" resin is about 10 minutes, after which it hardens and grab. Therefore, immediately after kneading, apply it to a brush on the prepared surface and attach a fiberglass latch to this section. Melt the surface of the planes to the resin so that it is completely soaked. After pouring the resin, it must be pasted with sandpaper to remove all major irregularities.
If the body damage is insignificant, the surface can not even be putty, it is enough to apply several layers of soil, after which you can start painting.
Then apply the finish or universal putty to the surface with a thin layer, trying to smooth it as careful as possible. After drying, the coating is cleaned by the sandpaper "zero". Next, the surface must be carefully cleaned from dust. In order for the paint, the spots did not show up and the paint itself was well, apply another layer of primer on the surface. After soaring, the soil must be pulled by the sandpaper "zero", pre-operated in water.
After that, the prepared surface must be painted. To repair a small area, you can use the paint in the canister. If you need to cut a very small plot, you can use a repair pencil with paint or paint in small tubes, which is sold with a tassel like a female nail polish. On this, actually, repair of the body of the machine and completed. The only thing can be applied on top of the paint varnish and then polish it.
We offer you to finally get acquainted with some useful rust removal tips:
- the best quality of corrosion removal by mechanical way can be achieved using a sandblasting machine, since it allows you to process even the smallest pores, but does not change the thickness of the metal;
- to eliminate rust chemical method The path can be used non-bonded converters, which convert rust into a protective film suitable for applying finishing materials;
- if the grip rust is carried out manually, wet the sandpaper in White-Spirit, which will slightly increase the efficiency of work;
- if you do not have a rust converter, make it with your own hands. For this, two liters of water add grams of 15-20 oxalic acid, as well as a bit citric acid and food soda. The resulting liquid needs to be treated by corrosion areas and wait 3-5 minutes. Then the surface must be rinsed well;
- instead of a degreaser, you can use the usual detergent for dishes;
- when the rust is removed, overlaps a piece of paint from the car and save it, it will make it possible to accurately choose the paint for the body color.
Here, perhaps, all the highlights, knowing which you even can perform high-quality repair of the body of your car.
Honda Accord Lastona\u003e Logbook\u003e Through corrosion. You are not praaavically uncle Fedor Sandwich Eat ...
Prettyly glazed on bortovikov in the portal, I decided to tease the article (I could not stand the soul), towards the repair of through corrosion of the body. Our ancient cars, a quarter of a century, how not to twist. And Honda in those distant times had not yet bothered to galvanizing the body, and the hosts of the car were not changed little, and saw anyone.
Experience in this area, I was podnabl after the union collapsed, when the sailors began to sweep the auto balls in Europe and to put it out of the powers that were not spoiled by the machines. Any foreign cars were in the wonder and went out like hot bail cakes. The sailor tried to take the cheaper (if for sale), and leading to the divine appearance, to sell with profit. Being a guy with hand (in Batka), I willingly help the people to sculpt from g ... on candy, stuffing your hand, gaining experience and entertainment for the sake of between watch and recreation.
So ... I dare to say that in most cases, when repairing through corrosion of housings, there is no need for the use of welding. You can boil when replacing the entire panels (which is often inappropriate), or to restore the power frame of the body (spars, racks, alternate, etc.). The same, wings, doors, aprons and other elements, including the arches of the wheels, are quite amenable to durable (not ashamed to emphasize it), repair using special fiberglass spackets. They were created for this, for holes through corrosion.
Holes with a fist, can easily be embossed, only the right approach is important.
Having found such a hole (you don't need to tear your hair and sprinkle ashes a head), we try to clean the rust to the maximum. There are many modern tools for this, but I will consider the cheapest approach - manual work of the owner. It is very convenient to overeat the edges of the misfortune of the chief (without the use of a hammer), just holding it in his hand and portraying Dyatla. Thus, the scale is very well removed. Then the metallic brush is input, it is better with the help of a drill (the brushes for this set, both in form and size). And the final stage will be degreasing by the solvent and processing the rust converter.
In the process of cleaning against rust, at the stage of the chisel, the edges of the hole must be taken inside throughout the circumference, leading them from the outer plane of the panel. Next, it is not necessary to bury these edges (if possible, treat as a personal enemy), in fiberglass putty. If the size of the opening allows, it is convenient to use a finger, a curved strip of metal and any healthy material that allows you to hide the corrosive edges. Finger to admire the soap solution (for aesthetes and manicure connoisseurs).
If the misfortune is small, then there is no need to be so crowded. It is enough to press the spatula with a slight amount of the putty, leveling the surface. And if large, it will be necessary to provide support from inner Panels (after all, you won't smear the putty to the air. You can use a piece of polyethylene, cardboard, plastic I.T.P. (By turning on the Intel), with the possibility of supporting hand from the reverse side, or to submit support to the rag, a piece of foam rubber, adhering to the scotch finally ... (it all depends on the place of misfortune).
If the cavity is closed and inward to get not to be able to succeed, then we encourage support from the cardboard, or the mesh is fine inside (naturally the size of a little more holes) and press the hole from the inside due to the product of the capronic thread, the wires, fishing rods. It may have to be held support to the formation of a putty. What at room temperature, 10 minutes. Puttlewing to the spa sticks perfectly and is one whole, so it is not necessary to be frightened if you cannot apply at a time.
This putty is, serves only for embedding the hole. And therefore, letting it dry (20-30 minutes), it happens enough, it is necessary to stroke the middle-grain with the skin, until the surface alignment and the little deeper. Protheses of dust with solvent and at the same time degreased, apply over the already ordinary polyester putty, preparing the surface to paint.
Our hands, dry with sight, always leave a fat footprint from sweat and therefore pawing immediately before applying splotels, soil, paint, varnish surface is not recommended.
If necessary (if there is no other opportunity to get to the back side), you can even drill a hole for a spray hose, in a convenient place for access, of course not in the front of the body. But we can make the place of work from the inside, you need iron. Good luck to you my dear. It's not so terrible ... And the sealing option is simple and cheap, for not lazy.
For the last, a few words about sandwiches ... It is not necessary before applying a putty during the repair of closed cavities, to blew the last foam, allegedly to support the apparent putty. All cavities in the car are ventilated, blowing out air when the car moves and prevent this process to be fraught with the body. So make unfair sellers, trying to overtake the car. I'm glad if I could be helpful.
Repair rusty body do it yourself
How to get rid of rust on the car body is a question that the most owners of used cars are worried. There are not many options, go to the maintenance station, or do a problem on your own. Many people do not know how to fight rust on the car body, so often they just smear paint, but this method does not save for a long time, but the rust is not fatal, so we consider ways to get rid of it.
Methods of getting riddled from rust
Of course, the most proper and fundamental solution in the fight against corrosion will be the replacement of the whole part entirely, however:
- It happens that this detail is not to get, or its value exceeds the reasonable limits, and I always want to save;
- Therefore, we will now understand how to eliminate rust on the body of the car with your own hands;
- There are several ways, and all of them are quite laborious;
- Modern cars have body from galvanizing, at least most;
- It does not give corrosion to develop, however, with deep scratches, elevations and chips, the protective zinc layer is damaged;
- How do you make sure that the body of your car is galvanized?
- It is enough to explore the passport details of your car;
- Or very gently scraping with a small part of the body paint, not forgetting to paint it;
- For a car, the body from stainless steel does not produce, most likely the case in the cost of production, so the problem of rust remains relevant;
- It is necessary to comply with security measures, use glasses and rubber gloves, when performing body workTo avoid entering the body of chemicals.
Rust not through
If the body is struck by rust in several places, it is necessary before starting work to clean these places with the help of a car shampoo, then:
- After drying the case, all problem places It is necessary to handle the skin with a large grain, or use a metal brush;
- It is not recommended to use the grinder, because the enrolls remove the metal layer;
- To perform such a procedure, only discs with plastic soles are suitable;
- Abrasive circle planted on a drill, pass the problem areas.
Body has small holes
If corrosion is deep, and even small holes arose, then act in the following way:
- With the help of a tapered brush, (more rigid it is recommended) The drill is made on the rust with a car body.
ATTENTION: The use of abrasive circles and grinders are not allowed - you simply wait for the metal, after such a stripping it will quickly rotate.
- After stripping, it is possible to confidently appreciate how deeply penetrated the corrosion of the stripped place is blown by air from the compressor, then you need to put the spotlight or a flashlight behind the details;
- If the detail of the body is fixed, then you need to try to stick the light source behind the back;
- In places where holes appeared, glowing points will be visible, with external lighting;
Instructions, how to stop the corrosion of the car body, as follows:
- The easiest way is to sew holes by the usual tin solder;
- To do this, you need a hammer soldering iron, soldering acid (rosin is not suitable here), solder the POS-61 brand, a construction hairdryer can be useful to warm the repair place when the soldering iron is not enough;
- Check the rust converter, without it can not do.
Attention: Before working with a new soldering iron, you should have a sting (its working surface).
Hammer solder
- Before starting work, a repair place having through corrosion should be cleaned of rust residues;
- Because it will not be for a rusty surface of the solder;
- The most important thing is not to be lazy when it is too lazy, then come back to the beginning, where it is recommended to purchase a new detail;
- To remove the residues of rye you will need a pointed feet, or a chop canvase debris, or a knife having a sharp blade and an abrasive skin;
- A rough skin, (R60-80 grain) pass the center of rust (if not passed the brush), so the surface layer is removed;
- Then should be chicken from a metal rust that has already been hosted;
- To make places have become clearly visible, you need to apply a rust converter with a brush and wait a couple of minutes;
- Rust will darken and become well noticeable on pure metal
at this stage, you will use pointed items to choose rotten metal; - The process is the most vigorous and time consuming;
- It is necessary to constantly apply the brush converter of rust these places;
- In this way, you wash off rust, which has already been signed, and see where you should attach additional efforts;
- After the place is cleaned, you can proceed to it;
ATTENTION: When the diameter of through holes exceeds 2-3 millimeters, it is no longer possible to fill them with a solder, such a method is suitable when end-to-end corrosion is formed by the shallow mesh.
- Apply a soldering acid to the surface until it dried up, you need to drive a tin solder with a warm soldering iron, where there are already holes from corrosion
- To better adhere to the tin solder, constantly cheat evaporating acid
- When the thick of the thick and power of the hammer soldering iron is not enough to warm the tin, then use the industrial hairdryer or the second soldering iron
Tip: The soldering should be performed in the open air either a ventilated room, (or with a room having a forced hood), as evaporated acid, is very harmful to respiratory tract, and it's not pleasant smell.
- Repair of corrosion damage to the body does not tolerate hacktare, the price of negligent work-campus again and very quickly rusts;
- After completing the work again, check the light, whether there are still through holes;
- After the repair place is irradiated, and the corrosion is registered, it is necessary to clean the surfaces from the acid and the converter that could remain;
- As a rule, washed with water, or a mixture of gasoline with alcohol;
- In order to increase the service life of the renovated body part, it is important to protect it properly from contact with the atmosphere;
- On the irradiated place of this body part, with the help of a kraskoraspylitel, apply acid soil, then, on top of it acrylic soil, only after that it is possible to sharpen the surface;
Important: On top of the acid soil, the putty can not be put it, so acrylic soil is placed.
- If suddenly, when grinding the putty, you will have wipers to metal - there is nothing terrible, simply blew up with acid soil and smear acrylic outbred places;
- Completing the restoration of the rusty body of the car, you should certainly protect the opposite direction of that repair place;
- Mandatory condition! Otherwise, all the work done will go to the Nammark;
- There are many ways to protect against corrosion, the main thing is to block the access of moisture and air to the protected place;
- The first option is to primar the opposite side with acid and acrylic soil;
- The second option is a layer of good sealant, mastic or pour Movil;
- The choice of option will depend on the convenience of accessing the surface being processed;
- If you don't cut the sprayer, try to apply soil with a brush, after which it is covered with Movil, for reliability or similar to the agent;
- Now it is clear to you how to restore the body of the car from rust with small holes;
Application of poplats
When a hole was already formed in the body, putty or soldering here not to do:
- The easiest way here will be the manufacture and installation of the patchwork;
- Of course, this method is suitable for holes with a diameter of no more than 5-7 percents, when the hole is more, it is definitely necessary to replace the body element, or welding;
- How to get rid of rust on the bodies of cars, if there are holes already appeared?;
- First, the place of damage should be pretty well, then clean it from rust, above the method described;
- After that, the patch is cut with dimensions a little large than the hole, from the latter metal, the canning can is suitable;
Patch from thin tin
- Now you need the same hammer soldering iron, it will be necessary to post the tin surface from the outside of the hole and the edges of the finished patch;
- How the flux is used by soldering acid, or its analogue;
- In the end, it will be necessary to turn the patch with a solid seam, then the patch with a hammer must be sieved;
- The protruding edges are cleaned with coarse sandpaper;
- After that, the defective place is covered with putty, primer and paint;
- Body repair after rust can be performed using welding;
- The patch is welded with carbon dioxide welding to the body, however, for this you will need a welding machine (or a welder with the device), plus the skills of the welder;
- Further processing as with the previous patch, stripping primer, putty, grinding putty and painting;
- Do not forget about the processing of the reverse side.
We wish you success in body work!
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How to save the body from pass-cutting rust
The car body is the most expensive part of it. But the modern auto industry offers the body of cars of this quality that with the "first swabs" of rotting can be encountered for the first two years of operation.
One of the easiest ways to solve the problem, or rather, to slow down its development - contact the specialized car service. There will be an expensive cycle of eliminating through rust, ranging from welding and ending with paint and varnish coating.
Methods of attaching holes
Is it possible to repair the body with their own hands, the rust that "ate" to the hole? A variety of tools and materials offered in auto shops allows you to perform several ways to get rid of the coded rust of the body. They will cost cheaper professional repair and take relatively little time.
Cross-cutting corrosion of the body is eliminated by only one way - a complete replacement of the affected part. But this method is appropriate only in cases where the dimensions of the affected area are greater than 10 cm in diameter. Experienced masters body repair It is believed that with the right approach and use of special materials, the holes of up to 8-10 cm are repaired.
To fulfill such work, you will not need special expensive tools, but the minimum work skills will not prevent their hands. Each caring car owner is interested in how to close the car corrosion, without resorting to the replacement of body parts.
There are several ways to solve this problem, namely:
- Welding is a local approach to the fight against through rust, which implies the presence of special welding equipment and experience with it;
- Patch - or "solder" - soldering a suitable piece of metal with a soldering iron and tin solder;
- Mesh - extension of the missing part fragment using a special grid. Works in a bundle with fiberglass and epoxy resin.
- Fiberglass - it is necessary to have a special glass stained putty and special material To create a multi-layer rigid surface.
- Putty - this method is effective only when using a backing side of the part and long-fiber automotive putty.
- Rivest - Outdated method, a special tool is required (riveter), or a hammer and rivets.
Materials for troubleshooting
Grid
A special aluminum peptular mesh is used as the main material, or a similar non-professional mesh is selected with a fine cross section. It is possible in our time to do the usual household plastic, metal or tissue grid.
Prepared several suitable pieces. Stretching one of them from the inside of the part and giving the necessary form of the missing part, the grid is attached using painting tape. Epoxy resin is applied to the mesh layer on the layer.
Each layer must dry well. So you need to repeat and with the next piece of the grid. And so close as long as the rigid surface is turned out.
Fiberglass
From this material you can make not only a fragment, but the item is completely. The sequence of actions is the same as with a grid (rust hole on the car body), but using fiberglass. In fact, the framework of the missing element is created.
Stages of work
Delete body corrosion can only be compliance with a certain sequence of actions in this process. Despite the diversity of the methods of repairing through corrosion with their own hands, the car enthusiast should know what to do with through corrosion of the body at the beginning of work. The complexity of the work itself will depend on the overall body of the machine.
Preparatory stage
First, it is necessary to clean the surface subject to corrosion so that it would be a pure piece of metal without corrosion traces. If it fails to do it carefully, the damaged fragment is cut.
In each embodiment of through corrosion, all stripped places are coated with acid or epoxy soil.
Welding
From a suitable piece of metal (for body repair, the cross-cutting corrosion will need a metal thickness of 0.8 mm) is made by 2-3 mm latch more through hole. If there is an opportunity, the watch is applied on the back side of the body part, and with welding is cooled by dots by contour from the front side.
Neither in one may not be prepared with a solid seam, so as not to be led and did not delay the metal.
Welding points are cleaned with a repair area. It turns out a swelling, which is then leveled by automotive putty.
Soldering
The principle of operation is the same as during welding, but instead of metal 0.8 is used tin (for example, cut out from under tin can). Latca is cut slightly more than the repair place. With the help of a powerful soldering iron and the tin solder, the wave is soldered by a solid seam.
The protruding walled plot on the car can be dried a little hammer, but it will complicate further work with putty, so it is necessary to observe accuracy and accuracy.
Putty
For such a repair, only a special automotive fiberglass putty is used. Starting from a large (starting) and ending with a small (finishing) fraction. For this, it will be necessary to need a substrate (for example, a piece of abrasive skirt).
Each layer is carefully dried from 30 minutes to several hours depending on the thickness and temperature of the air. The refrigerant putty is overwhelmed by abrasive, smoothing the borders of the resulting halo.
The result is a flat surface for applying soil and paintwork.
The thickness of the automotive putty layer should not exceed 2 mm. Thicker layers will lead to cracking material.
Finishing work
Whatever the method of repairing end-cutting corrosion of the body was carried out, cosmetic painting works will necessarily need to complete. This includes a multi-layer leveling of the repair surface with several types of automotive putty.
Each layer is dried and overwhelmed by abrasives. After that, the surface is grounded with epoxy soil, then aligning. After that, paintwork is applied.
Painting a car or its details requires special skills, so it is best to entrust it to professionals.
Through corrosion is a critical defect. Not only the appearance and reliability of the car depends on the body, but also the safety of its owner. Therefore, it is advisable to regularly inspect the body and perform prophylactic anti-corrosion processing.
How to close a hole in the bodie of the car? Sometimes before staining vehicle On his body, small "bugs" are found, under which the through hole is hidden. Consider how to make a patch on the body yourself. A quick way to mask the hole in the body without overhaul! You can repair the hole on your body yourself if its size is not more than the matchbox.
To eliminate this problem, you can use 2 methods.
The hole can be masked by a spheolder containing fiberglass additives. This method is simple and rapid, but not everyone can be called successful.
Therefore, it is better to choose more complicated, but effective method Car body repair.
The method of eliminating serious damage on the car body
It consists in installing a patch, carved from a thin metal, such as a canning can. Initially, a piece of metal of the required size is cut, for full overlap of the hole. Then a powerful soldering iron, the patch is soldered to the body using the rust acid converter as a flux.
When performing this procedure, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances:
Before attacking a patch, its edges must be reached by the soldering iron. You also need to lose the surface on which the attack is made. The patch must be soldered with a solid seam so that there are no empty gaps.
You need to make sure that the latch did not swear above the hole. If it happened, you must neatly drown the metal, with the help of a hammer. If the failure is that most often happens, the patch must be removed with a putty, the layer of which should be a thickness of no more than 3 mm. For this you need to perform
How to close a hole in the car body - the following actions:
1. Find the sandpaper with the size of the abrasive 120. On the eye you need to determine the surface area, which should be covered, adding 2-3 millimeters with each side of the margins.
3. After final preparation of space for spittle, it is necessary with the help of a small cloth with a moistened "White-alcohol", carefully treat sandy surfaces, clearing them from dust and dirt, at the same time degreasing.
4. Next, you can begin to perform the most responsible step, consisting in the pre-primer of the patchwork. This work should be performed immediately how the metal will be processed with alcohol, because after 2-3 hours, the corrosion of this part of the body will begin.
5. First, the first primer layer (acid or phosphate) is applied. This two-component primer is better breed in a glass jar or plastic dishes. Another option is to use acid soil selling in aerosol cans.
6. Phosphate soil must be applied on a piping thin layer. The soil begins to dry quickly, and can give herds. After fifteen minutes, you can begin to apply another thin layer. The procedure must be performed at a temperature of 20 degrees.
7. After some time (from 1 to 15 minutes), the last layer of acrylic two-component soil is applied. You need a few minutes to dry the patchwork, then you can begin to paint the body, so that it glisters, as if the car just left the car dealership. To speed up this process, you can use infrared warming.
How to close a hole in the body of cars we told, quite simple!
Sometimes before the painting of the car, having stuck another "bug", we suddenly discover the through hole formed in the corrosion process. What to do in this case? Run to a bow to the cuspist with a welding machine, or solve this problem on your own, even without a welder?
Everything, of course, depends on the general state of the car, if it is, only the local through hole, and not completely rotten body detail, I will proceed to its liquidation.
To begin with, the corrosion place must be cleared of rust. To do this, use various picker on a drill, or a special vinyl nozzle on a drill.
Next, proceed to the elimination of holes formed as a result of stripping rust. In case of complex cases, holes and holes of a large area, as already wrote above, it is certainly necessary to contact the help of welding and cuzer.
We will consider easier cases where the size of the hole (hole) does not exceed the size of the matchbox. You can eliminate them in two ways.
Liquidation of the hole with putty with fiberglass is not our method
Some auto masterster, or in fairness, or simply not though achieving high-quality work, try to close the corrosive opening with a fiber with glass fiber. This is certainly a very simple way, but it has one large disadvantage.
I will explain, since putty in its essence is hygroscopic, i.e. Shears water, then on a freshly painted car, after a couple of days or after the first rain, an ugly bubble filled with water will come out on a new coating in the scene of the former hole. This is easily ensured if you pierce it with a needle. Such an option, chickens on laughter and we are not needed such a way of repairing corrosive holes. Therefore...
We solder the patch - and this is our method!
The principle of this method is quite simple - a patch. Cut from a piece of metal (as a "donor" you can, for example, use banks from under the auto chemistry) a patch that overlaps its hole in the body, and solder it with a powerful soldering iron, using a rust acid converter (orthophosphoric acid) as a flux, and of course Tin solder.
All steps are displayed in the picture below.
1 edges of the patchwork before soldering must be irradiated. (All places processed by the rust converter, after soldering, should be rinsed, following the instructions on the transducer label).
2 is also facing the surface (hole edges) to which the patch will be soldered. After the patch solder (and it should be soldered, without empty intervals), it is necessary to measure whether it is over the surface of the bubble. (We do not need a bump!). You can do this with a metal ruler. If it acts, then it follows a light hammer and light blows, drown a patch (see Fig.).
The resulting small failure will be aligned with putty.
Remember! The thickness of the layer of putty should not exceed 2-3 mm otherwise in the future it can crack.
Now that all holes are brewed, and all the rye is considered to the metal, prepare the surface to the putty.
To do this, we need sandpaper with abrasive size 120 (Mirka, 3M or similar manufacturers).
Determine the size of the seats that should be mat about. They must slightly exceed the size of the switable area. And lungs circular movements We apply adhesive risk. It is necessary for the putty to be, for which to stay on the surface.
After, the preparation of all places for the shit, take a cloth, White spirit and carefully process all the sandy surfaces, from excess dust, dirt, and the surface is degreased.
And now we can proceed to the responsible operation, according to prior priming. The purified surface of the metal is easily rust, so it is not recommended to leave the surface without a protective coating for more than an hour - the primer should be applied. To do this, you will need two types of soil.
Ground acid soil
The first layer of primer is phosphate, it is also acidic. As a rule, it is a two-component soil, divorce into glass or plastic dishes, as it interacts with iron removing water molecules from the surface. Also, acid soil in aerosol cylinders can be used.
Phosphate soil is applied in one or two thin layers, directly on bare metal. It quickly dries, very liquid, therefore it can give incontrolle, but in this case, nothing terrible, you can neglected. After 10-15 minutes. (Time is indicated at a temperature close to +20, at other temperatures, make an approximate adjustment) you can proceed to priming acrylic soil.
Soil acrylic soil
It should be applied in 2-3 layers with an intermediate drying of 5-10 minutes. You can use soil from aerosol cylinders, especially if you do not have a compressor. Then all this will dry around for three hours (when applying forced infrared warming, drying time can be reduced to 20-30 minutes.).
I want to notice, on personal experience, that such patches hold back for quite a long time. I will say so, two years not the limit!
Good repair!
sam-avtomaster.com.
Repair of corrosion without welding
The body of any car is the most expensive detail, therefore needs constant care and cosmetic repair. Through corrosion - troubles of many modern cars. Whether there are ways to avoid buying a new car frame and how to close a hole without welding - these are two urgent questions of many car owners.
The cost of work in car service is impressive, so many prefer to repair their cars on their own.
Required tools and materials required
Repair of corrosion without welding is the cheapest and easy way to eliminate the problem. To do this, you will need to buy the next set:
- Aluminum grid with a size of approximately 25 * 18 cm;
- Scotch (better metallic);
- Fiberglass putty;
- Sandpaper with grain degree of 80 or 120;
- Aircraft for alignment of surfaces;
- Universal putty;
- Primer;
- Paint (in tone body);
- Tools for polishing paintwork.
Stages of performance
All work on rapidly eliminate holes in the body without welding are performed in stages:
- Stripping a damaged area from rust and paint;
- Fixation with a scotch in the empty location of the body of an aluminum mesh (a space should remain between the scotch bands to fill the grid with putty);
When securing the mesh, it is necessary to make a maxim of effort to fix it with a car wing.
- The space between the attached scotch on the grid is filled with fiberglass putty. At the same time, it is necessary to diligently rub the material into the cellular mesh structure for the formation of a sufficiently thick layer;
- After drying, the putty tape is cleaned;
- Re-applying putty for final filling hole in the body;
- The hole in the body is put on both outside and inside. There should be a durable and neat patch;
- The dried surface should take a deaf sound when tapping;
- Alignment of the patchwork of a rough sandpaper of grainability 80 or 120. In this case, special equipment can be used, for example, an aircraft to obtain a more smooth surface of the patch formable;
- Applying a universal putty composition and again - sanding;
- Cleaning the working area from dirt and dust, blowing it around the perimeter of tape;
- Application first primer, then paints;
- Next stage - coating of the repaired lacquer region;
- The final chord is polishing a renovated area.
If you look closely, the repair of corrosion without welding will be noticeable on the body. However, the costs of such a way to solve the problem requires a bit, even an inexperienced auto owner can cope with work. Use putty holes only with minor body damage.
If the body corrosion is removed by grid and putty, the duration of operation of the patch is from a year to two years.
The method is applied only in emergency cases: Urgent passage of inspection or preparation of a car for sale. If the car is expensive and the owner is not going to change it, work is better to entrust the professionals of the car service. And one more important detail - if corrosion struck most of the body of the car, the expensive item will have to change on a new one.
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How to repair spripes in the car body yourself
One of the most problematic and expensive options for giving the car of a commodity type is to repair holes in his body. This damage can be eliminated by a hundred or try to get rid of it on your own. The first way will require substantial costs, but the second will cost cheaper, but will take quite a long time. In addition, it is not possible to perform a breakpoint.
Steps to repair body holes
Work on the elimination of holes in the body requires a thorough preparation of the workplace. The area around the holes are carefully cleaned with a rough sandpaper, with its radius should not less than 3 cm exceeding the size of the hole itself. Remove not only the top layer of paint and varnish, but also the soil. As a result, a metal must be seen on the cleaned area, which is processed by the anti-corrosion composition.
Next should be soldered. For her can be used any piece of metal suitable size. It is important to consider that such a repair is carried out on the back of the body so that the violation of its integrity is least noticeable. Before the plotting of the patch, as well as the place of damage, is irradiated using orthophosphoric acid as a flux. Its use is especially appropriate in this case, since, firstly, eliminates the likelihood of corrosion at the site of the solder, and secondly, it allows you to make the most reliable and imperceptible seam.
Patchwork solder performs skidding, not leaving loose intervals. After the processed place is cool, it should be checked if our latik is a bubble on the surface of the car. If nevertheless it turned out uneven - the richtovka is carried out with a small hammer, avoiding paint damage.
Next, the repair provides for the putty of the plot with a patch in order to maximize it. First you need to sand repaired area, then degrease it and dry it. Important: The putty should be applied with a rather thin layer, because with its thickness, more than 3mm material on the metal will be bad. The priming itself is performed in two stages: applying acid and acrylic soil. In order not to mess with the preparation of a two-component composition for the first stage, you can use the phosphate primer, packed in the canopy. Acrylic primer is also sold in the form of aerosols, which will be very convenient in the absence of a compressor and a small damage.
Alternative hole repair options in the body
To repair a hole with its small size, you can close the hole with a putty, mixing it with fiberglass. This method is much faster and easier than the previous one, but it will last for a short time - under the influence of precipitation, the scene will begin to swell and become too noticeable. However, this option may be by the way if you are preparing a car for sale.
If there is no desire or ability to repair a hole, but I don't want to drive with it - use the stickers for cars. So very often come with corporate or working machines. This type of repair is conditional in nature, but the appearance remains at height.
If your car has serious damage, the size of a larger box is best eliminated by welding. Skill them will be able to perform a professional on a good service station. As an alternative, you can do welders ourselves, if you have proper experience and necessary equipment.
Pokraskamashin.ru.
Repair of body damage without welding
The restoration of the integrity and appearance of the car using welding is often economically inexpedient, and sometimes impossible or unreliable. Then apply ways to repair the bodies without welding. Bearing elements in this way restored not recommended, especially since.
Rubbling ways of repair
Almost all work on the body without the use of welding refer to the discharge of non-professional. They are not the result of any developments in this area, based on the use of the properties of certain materials and substances, do not have a clear technology, verified and regulated by the relevant institutions, organizations, regulations and gta stations. This is the fetus of folk wisdom and the seven of domestic craftsmen, initiated by the specific conditions of our life. For example, in Europe, the thought will not come to mind to try to repair a damaged body part or a broken car - they are simply changed to new ones. These methods are oriented, first of all, to eliminate end-to-end damage to the facial surfaces and the bottom of the car.
General requirements, the rules are as follows. If necessary, cut or expand the damaged place is used by the grinder. The repaired area is cleaned of paint, rust, dirt. Treated with anticorrosive or zinc, degrease. After seeling the hole at the point of repair, the surface of the desired configuration is formed, if necessary, use a painting auto-suck. Then prepare the body to paint.
Shpalian
Use putty with fiberglass. It happens the following types:
- with fine fiberglass;
- with medium;
- with large.
For sealing through damage, a composition with large fibers is used. The method is suitable for small holes or when significant damage is arranged in the area of \u200b\u200bconstructive "pockets" that protect large masses of putty from sprinkling (for example, the front of the hood over the radiator grille). To fix the composition during work, you can use lining that are installed on the reverse side of damage. Shp clashing is the most unreliable way. Used, mainly in extreme cases for urgent repairs and when there are no other alternatives.
Before starting the work, the cleaned metal of the body is soaked. When mixing spacing with a hardener, bubbles should be avoided. The composition is missing first inside, and then lay on top. When damage to significant sizes, work is carried out in several stages. They give the opportunity to dry by one layer, then superimpose the following. Drying occurs in a natural way.
Using the aluminum mesh allows you to repair more significant damage. It is applied to the hole and fix the scotch. At the end of the work, Scotch is cleaned.
Fiberglass and glue
With more serious damage, fiberglass and adhesive composition are used, which is prepared from epoxy or polyester resin. Fiberglass use for reinforcing the marks. This method is more reliable than the previous one also requires pre-priming.
From the fiberglass, several linings are cut on the shape of the hole. The size of the first provides overlap of damage to the bracket by 2 cm. Subsequent pieces of fiberglass more than previous ones, the latter completely closes the prepared bare metal of the repaired area.
The linings are impregnated with glue and set, or applied to the damaged surface with the applied glue in ascending order of the sizes. So that the fabric during work has not saved, with a significant hole in size, the linings are installed. At the end of the work, the resin give time to dry and grab. The method is suitable for small damage.
Soldering
Used to eliminate the damage of large sizes. The metal sheet is tightly pressed to the body, the connection with which is produced by the solder. To ensure the strength of the soldering use flux. This method is quite easy to implement and even a newcomer; For reliability - something mean between welding and gluing. Solder and flux are selected on the basis of alloys of the metal connected. Perform a soldering electric soldering iron of high power.
Basic disadvantages:
- relatively high cost (due to the big price of solder);
- the compound is not solid enough (welding is much more reliable).
Patch from metal should completely close the hole. Before the start of work, the soldering place on the pad and the body is listened to (processed by soldering with a flux by the soldering iron). The larger the area of \u200b\u200bthe meadow and the soldering, the more reliable the connection. If the soldering pad strongly performs, it is aligned on the surface of the car's details with a hammer. The resulting dent close the putty.
