Body repair yourself. Repair and restoration of the car body: step-by-step instruction and device. Defense of body shape

Denis Franov

External damage to the machine - an event, unfortunately, frequent, and the cost of holding even a small body repair in terms of car service is quite high. But some damage to the housing is quite easy to eliminate themselves.

To the honor of Russian motorists, many of them, unlike their ingenic colleagues, have good skills to carry out body repair with their own hands. True, this dignity is based on the negative aspects of our reality. The state of roads, to put it mildly, is very far from the ideal, and the level of salaries has not yet reached that value when about any dent can be afforded to contact the car service.

Not any car is insured against "injuries". Even with impeccable observance of the rules for its owner, the probability of an accident remains - unfortunately, not all drivers are supporters of the established order of driving on the roads. In addition, damage (scratches, dents, chips) can be obtained by just leaving the car in the parking lot.

There are another terrible enemy in the cars - a time that does not gentle the steel bodies. Considering the attachment of most of our car owners to their machines, eliminating corrosion consequences becomes one of the main tasks of body repair.

It is worth a me to make a reservation that independent body repairIf you do not have professional skills and specialized equipment, it is possible only with small damage that do not affect carrier structures of the car.

The fight against corrosion is one of the most time-consuming processes, but if they neglect them, then a fairly short time car, without even having been in an accident, will lose its external appeal. Well, if the time is already missed, and Rust makes itself felt by red spots, it is necessary to urgently take measures to localize and eliminate corrosion foci.

Purification of the body from rust implies two stages of its conduct - mechanical stripping and processing with special chemicals. For the first stage of work will be needed

• metal brushes (manual or in the form of nozzles on a drill or "Bulgarian"),
• good reserve of sandpaper with grain 60-80,
• soft rag.

To carry out chemical removal of rust, you must purchase an appropriate reagent. The range of rust transducers is quite large, mainly, they are made on the basis of orthophosphoric acid. Available in both the liquid variant and in gel or aerosol. Of course, all modifiers have their own specifics, so they require compulsory attentive familiarization with the rules of their application and compliance with the recommended security measures.

• First of all, you need to thoroughly wash the car and reveal the corrosion foci on its surface.

• Mechanically (brushed or sandpaper) Rust spots are cleaned to "healthy" metal. Apply the anti-corrosion remedy immediately - it is difficult to foresee the depth of the defeat.

• No matter how old, small foci of rust will remain in pores or cavities, where it is already impossible to penetrate the mechanical path. At this stage, the rust converter is started (in accordance with the instructions for its use), which should not only completely dissolve it, but also to cover the affected area with a kind of ground coating suitable for further putty. General Tips Here it is impossible to give - some formulations require a mandatory wash after a certain reaction time, others, on the contrary, remain at the place of application until complete drying.

• It often happens that corrosion eats metal to a thin "mesh" or at all through. It is possible, of course, through holes to smoke fiberglass using epoxy compositions, but still the optimal solution will strike the site and the soldering of the metal patch. The suspended area will not be subject to further corrosion, and the stamped latch is easy to break inward, to put the necessary thin layer of putty on top.

• We must not be forgotten about the purified areas must be immediately processed by the anti-corrosion composition. At intermediate stages of work, it is necessary to exclude even the slightest probability of entering the surface of the water.

Scratching

Scratches on the machine body - general headache. The reasons for their appearance are mass, even if you do not count the accidents: flying from under wheels Stones and foreign objects, uncircumbed branches of shrubs and trees, playful children's hands or anyone evil intent. How do you perform body repair with your own hands if it comes to such damage?

If there is no deformation of the housing, first of all, it is necessary to accurately set the depth of the scratched layer - it may be easy damage to the upper varnishing coating, the integrity of the paint layer or a deep groove to the metal, with the exfoliation of the paint coating. As a rule, with good lighting it is visible to the naked eye, if you wish, you can use the magnifying glass.

With superficial damage, when a layer of protective varnish is scratched, you can apply special poly rays (liquid or pasty) or polishing pencils to remove light scratches, for example, recommended by many Fix IT Pro or SCRATCH Free Auto owners. The principle of their application is simple:

1. The surface is thoroughly washed away from dirt and dust using detergent and wipe dry.
2. The damaged area is applied polyrolol and dry clean x / b rack with circular motions rubbed into the surface.
3. After complete drying of the composition (according to the instructions applied to the medium), the final polishing is performed.

If the scratch is deeper, care will be much larger. Restoration pencil will be required (for example, NEW SN) or a small amount of paint - a difficult moment in both cases is proper selection necessary shade.

1. The surface is thoroughly washed with the auto-mapping, wipe dry, degreases. In order to avoid getting paints on the intact section, the area around the scratch is better to protect with painting scotch.
2. With the help of the pencil, the painting composition is applied. If there is no, the scratch is neatly filled with paint using ordinary toothpick, but not to the surface itself, and so that the place is left to apply the polishing composition.
3. After complete drying, polishing is made as described above.

Highly good feedback Deserted a method of embedding scratches using the 3M Scratch and Swirl Remover tool, which does not require the selection of the necessary paint. In fact, this composition slightly dissolves the LCP surrounding scratch, and fills it. After polishing, damage becomes almost imperceptible.

If the surface of the surface is up to the metal led to the destruction (rocking, cracking) of the paint coating, then there is no simple restoration methods. We will have to get a scratch, apply an anti-corrosion composition, put a damaged area, align it and prepare to paint. Often it causes the need to paint a whole body element.

Demoting, Richtovka

This process is one of the most difficult, and you need to make a good way to evaluate your capabilities before you take for this work.

First of all, a specialized tool is needed, which is far from all. Secondly, work requires high skills - the master must "feel" metal. Thirdly, it is not necessary to rely too much on the body repairs placed in the network with your own hands - what seems simple and understandable on the screen, can go not quite so in practice. Nevertheless, if the desire to experience your strength prevails, you can try several ways.

If the dent has not formed a metal fence ("Flone"), you can try to squeeze it smoothly from the inside. For this use levers or hooks if with inner The housing is the point of the stop for the application of force. Sometimes, for straightening dents, a sufficiently small effort or several light blows of the xyiyan (rubber hammer).

Some craftsmen use car chambers for pressed "Floating" (cameras from balls). The method is old, but often very effective. The chamber is placed under a dent, it is launched to avoid breaking with cardboard or plywood pads or placed in a tarp case. When pumping it with air, it can, increasing in the amount, straighten the metal into place.

It is recommended to try the heating of dents around the circumference with a construction dryer, and then sharp cooling with liquefied carbon dioxide (for the extreme case, just with wet rags). Sometimes it gives a very good effect.

If you managed to get at your disposal a vacuum sucker or spotter, then the problem can be solved even easier. The application of force with the outer side of the dent allows you to maximize the body geometry, even without damaging the paint layer. However, this method is applicable only to cars that have not previously underwent shtclosure and repainting. An example of using Spotter is demonstrated in the proposed video.

If the dent is large, deep and conjugate with the obvious metal chance, you will have to do Richtovka.

• Start it also with the maximum exhaust to be repaired part. If some elements of hardness (racks or ribs) are injured - you need to start with them.

• Reference of the site with the chances start from the edges, gradually moving to the center. After squeezing large dents, it is possible to move to the rough recovery of the geometry of the part, using straight hammers and anvil. Perhaps it will take point heating around the straightening area - this can be done with the help of a construction dryer.

• The quality of the richtovka is inspected constantly during the work. Bougraov and deep holes are not allowed, which will not give a qualitatively to make shtclosure of a damaged area. After completion of the work, the refined area is necessarily completely purified from the paint coating to the metal.

How to customs car? Basic rules and possible difficulties.

Putty and preparation for painting

The final form of the damaged body part is attached to the shtlock. Before starting work, the surface is thoroughly washed, dried, cleaned from dust. Special attention should be paid to the transitions to the intact section - the putty will not fall on the glossy coating, it must be cleaned with a shallow skin to frosiness. Immediately before applying the spacion layer, the surface is degreased by a solvent.

Highly old car, not to mention a completely stray, in a civilized world can only be found because its owner either eccentric or has such a hobby, - old weather cars on the road do not. And in any case, their technical condition And the youthful appearance Decent admiration. We have twisted, worn cars still constitute the basis of the transport flow. Cars are not thrown in our everyday, and repair, restore, change the body, sell and resell. According to statistics, by 1969, the parking park of individual use was quite old. However, at that time, when issuing cars of 1.2 million, 2.1 million cars were sold through the trading network, and the number of owners increased by more than 9 million. Since then, the proportion of old cars is constantly growing: the release of new ones is reduced and used from abroad. The social setting of the update also does not contribute. Once elite part of society - doctors, orders of universities, engineers, employees of ministries and departments, the military, which have disengaged by personal vehicles first of all, can no longer do this today. New cars for them are not available, but to stay without a car at all - it is impossible. Exit - patch and apply available.

But where and how? According to the logic of things, to reanimate the rustful ten-fifteen-year-old car is more expensive: the cost of its recovery will exceed the market price, for which this car can then sell. However, having received the task "Repair" your old car - if possible, well and cheaply - the journalist of the "Automotive Life and Service" edition was surprised that for old cars we are still taken and, moreover, it is a favorable thing for the car service ! Paths for a significant decrease in the cost of such repairs are found.

First, it is not necessary to buy spare body parts in stores or in the markets. Almost on any car shift or near the garage cooperative there will be abandoned bodies of cars of any brands. Despite the external urgency, on each such abroad body it is quite possible to find high-quality parts, without stretching, per millions of rubles. On the bit, as a rule, remain in good condition Spars, mudguards, trunk floor. There are almost intricate the roof and racks on a very rust. I am even easier with foreign bodies. It is no secret to anyone that most imported cars do not even fully worry, but disassembled on spare parts. First of all, they sell hinged elements - headlights, lights, glasses, engine, and what remains, naked body, emit into a landfill.

The problem is only to make the necessary parts from the rubble and turn them into a set of necessary spare parts. Specializing in such "mining" usually grabs a passenger car With a trailer, battery capacity of at least 150 amp-hours and voltage converter from 12 to 220 volts with a capacity of at least 1 kW, the manufacture of which is available to any competent radio amateur.

A brigade of two people, armed with an electric perforator and an angular cutting machine, separates any body in place approximately 2 hours. At the same time, experienced "cutters" do not extend the elements separately (for example, spars, rear panel), and cut off as a collection of everything that is required. For example, when damaged the back of the car is cut off, and then several seams are welded everything that is located on the rear transverse beam of the body. The seams are reinforced by a decrease in the steps of the welded points. And in the racks and thresholds lay additional amplifying elements that compensate for the reduction of body strength. With this approach, the cost of details (and works!) Necessary for recovery, such as "Zhiguli", in this case decreases several times!

The next step is to reduce the cost of restoration work. Here, first of all, it should be reduced by the depreciation of the equipment used. Old cars do not need expensive lifts, stapels, etc. For repair, say, the bottom and everything that requires access to the bottom, there are enough three old tires that allow you to put a car on the side. (True, put it must be able to do not damage the color.)

Screw ties and stretching are widely used to correct parts that are not replaced. They are not as comfortable as hydraulic cylinders, but they can be easily made by handicraft. The effort achieved by stretching with a screw diameter of 40 mm is quite enough in order to break the body "Zhiguli" on the part. In addition, the voltage created by such adaptation remains constant and allows you to keep parts under load for several hours.

In general, as we have convinced, the car allows you to pate yourself to infinity. We saw cars on which the area of \u200b\u200bthe Latol exceeded the area of \u200b\u200bthe native metal of the body. The weight of such cars becomes significant, but at the same time the strength is achieved if not an armored car, then at least "victory". When restoring a rusty machine, especially its bottoms, apply millimeter iron beams. And to increase the rigidity of the old bodies, as is well known, additional, not stipulated by the design, elements are motor stretch marks, a variety of spars and threshold amplifiers. Owners of the "eights" and "nine" know how difficult it is to restore the front panel even on relatively fresh machines. A large load coming to it, and poor anti-corrosion protection cause cracks and other defects in the engine mounting places and, especially dangerous, fastening the bracket of longitudinal traction. With their cliff front wheel It comes into contact with the mudguard, and the car becomes unmanageable. In some workshops, a channel, to which the bracket of longitudinal stabilizers and the brackets are attached to strengthen the design right inside the front panel. It is hard, but sturdy. However, the greatest problem of owners of old cars are delivered to the rusty doors, a hood or wings. You can't find these hinged elements on landfills. And even used they are expensive, and high-quality repair is usually 70 percent of the cost of a new part. But here, it turns out, there are his ingenious techniques and recipes. The basis of their basis modern putty materials and polymer cold welding were easily.

It is known how belonging to the old hardening to putty. As dirt. The thick layer of this material is applied every time in order to hide the defects of tin work. But at a layer more than 2 mm, a regular polyester putty or peeling, or cracks along with a paint coating, opening moisture access to unprotected metal. Fast metal corrosion does not cause himself to wait.

Now, with the appearance in our market putty with filler from fiberglass, the situation has changed. New materials are not cracking even at a layer of several millimeters. Puttails are distinguished by the length and number of fibers available in them. The larger the length of the fiber, the stronger the hardened putty. Especially long fiber, for example, ABRO Rusthole Filler, you can even reliably close through holes. Almost all glass wipers have low porosity and perfectly protect the metal from corrosion. True, it is much more complicated to use them than usual: after the putty will freeze, remove excess material from the body is not easy.

For repairing strongly rusted panels are more suitable for "Duraglas" type (Duraglas). The metal around the hole is cleaned of dirt and paint residues, and then with the help of the hammer, it is shrouded by 1-3 mm. At the same time, the rusted parts of the edges are not removed. The more jar and fine holes, the stronger the adhesion of putty with the metal.

At first, a thin layer of superbone-fiber spacing is applied to the edges of the opening, and then until it frozen, tighten the hole with a glasswork or other reinforcing material. Then they apply another one or two layers of putty, having in mind that a large area of \u200b\u200bthe hole is reinforced several times. Four, five layers of fiberglass create a storage stroke, exceeding the strength of the metal.

Glass flippers are grinding with a coarse-grained skin, and then coated with a thin layer of two-component fine-grained putty for embedding rice and scratches. At the same time, some modern easily dispensed glass wipers like "Duraglas" have a long time retaining the plasticity and in the solidified state. At this time, they can be processed with a brine with a large notch or just cut off with a sharp knife. Processing does not create dust and is especially convenient for homemade repair. Usually, approximately 100 grams of putty leaves at a hole of 100-150 cm2, and independent recovery of a strongly rusted wing costs 20 thousand rubles, which is definitely cheaper than the cost of ordinary body repair.

Even not very old cars are devoid of relatively small corrosion damage, and if not to take urgent measures, then in a year or two such a car finally rust and falls apart. The corrosion of the inner cavities is especially dangerous here - "boxes", thresholds, side meters, racks. In this case, the usual recipe "delete the old rust" does not fit, inside the racks or "boxes" such an operation is not conducted. Therefore, the method seen on one small, service station, struck us. The elements of old cars can be preserved by filling in the inner space by construction foam (type "Penoflex") from the canopy. O6LADEMA ability to expand, it fully fills in the internal volumes, preventing the access of moisture and oxygen. We saw disassembled for repair after an accident, a car previously processed in this way. Foam firmly stuck to the metal and did not exist anywhere. Despite the fact that the car was operated year-round, the traces of fresh corrosion were absent.

The old tested way to protect seams and places that do not need painting are also forgotten using conventional plasticine. The material bribes its availability, low cost and excellent properties. It is not falling off and does not require careful surface cleaning from rust. However, the labor-intensity of the work is so high, especially if it is required to miss Welded seams with a plasticine that only the owner can perform with patience and a lot of free time. For sealing seams, special car sealants are still used. It is only necessary to comply with all recommendations: some of the sealants require careful cleaning and degreasing the surface, which in the conditions of a small workshop is not always feasible (otherwise, literally after 5-6 months, the dried pasta will simply fall off from the metal).

When preparing for painting recovered panels, single-component anti-corrosion soils of air drying are used more often as less expensive. However, the solvent, evaporating, creates on the treated surface when the pores drying are sufficient to ensure that the rust foci below them quickly grow up. Best results Achieve using two-component anti-corrosion epoxy soils, which are polymerized in volume and the whole overlap the access of oxygen and moisture to the foci of rust. Some of them, for example, the brand "2300" of Morton Paint CO, allow you to paint in them like "Sadolin" in them without an additional layer of paint soil. But two-component materials are significantly more expensive than normal.

And in conclusion, another curious solution, which is offered on one of the stations repairing old cars. We are talking about bodies whose surface is completely covered with small points of rust. It is known to fight them, as you know, the case is a vigorous, requiring repsation of the entire car. Here rusty dots are slightly stuffed and places tinted with a tampon. Then the entire car is treated until the matte state of the shallow skin and covered with two-component polyurethane varnish, the quality of the factory painting is preserved, and the car sparkles like a foreign car. We were convinced that when using high-quality polyurethane varnish rusty dots no many more years.

In general, reanimated old cars did not make an oppressive impression on me. Of course, they are no longer capable of winning the "poultry" on the roads, but in faith and the truth to serve their owners for many years.

Tips for the owners of old cars wishing to produce body repair as cheaper

2. Try yourself to get used to use, but good more details or find the body from the same model in the district. Nice results gives rooting those who recently bought a new body. Their phones can be found in the firm to sell the body, or in the traffic police, where the new body must be registered.

3. Carefully select the workshop. The main thing is that there have experienced experience with old cars and welcomed participation in the repair of the owner itself. At the same time, on the outskirts of cities and in areas prices for repair is significantly lower than in the city itself.

4. Try to repair the car in the first autumn months, when the stations are not so downloaded, and warm weather allows you to spend most of the work in the open air. The latter circumstance significantly affects the price of repair.

5. Do not rush masters. Than repair longer, the cheaper.

6. All consumables (putty, paints) buy yourself. Masters are indifferent than priming and painting your car. Whereas from quality supplies The durability of the car depends.

Drivers are reverent vehicle. Therefore, when defects, they are trying to immediately eliminate them. In the cabin, such procedures are pretty expensive. Many motorists seek to eliminate chips and dents independently. How to make body repair yourself? What to do with minor defects, and how to approach serious damage?

Why do it

Body repairs are carried out in the case when the following phenomena is observed:

• damage (scratches, chips);
• appearance;
• education as a result of an accident or other damage.

To begin with, you need to examine the car to assess the degree of damage

If you do not recover in time, even a minor chill is able to lead to serious problems in the future. Gradually, the chip will expand, covered corrosion, and soon the focus will spread to a large area of \u200b\u200bthe machine. Such processes are difficult to fulfill their own, they will require financial investments. Therefore, it is important when small defects appear to immediately hold the necessary manipulation of the car repair.

Body repair with your own hands is divided into:

1. Local - elimination of small chips, dents, scratches and foci of corrosion.
2. Full - restoration of geometry and strong body damage.

Local repair of the car body is easily performed easily. Serious preparation will require a complete recreation of the appearance of transport. For special devices and devices.

Minor repairs

When damage does not cause the deformations of the subframe and body, then only local repair of the machine

When appearance small scratches It is recommended to use special or. It is easy to work easily, the main thing, adhere to the recommendations specified in the instructions. To even small chips, there is no need to disassemble the car. All processes occupy a little time.

If traces of rust already appeared, then it will be necessary:

1. Remove corrosion with grinding.
2. Lock the damaged area.
3. Collect.
4. Apply a special primer.
5. Cove the paint. The coloring agent is sold in small balllings.

Before you make body repair with your own hands, remove the paint and primer in the damage zone

If there are dents on the surface of the car, the process of restoring the appearance is complicated. Can cope with shallow defects you can just pressing with back side on metal. This method is relevant if there are no chips. With deeper dents, the following correction options are possible:

1. Anvil covered with a cloth in a few words. This will protect the paint coating from further chips in the richt process. The part on which the dent is located is placed on the anvil and the inside of its surface is closed. Do it carefully, starting from the center of dents and gradually turning to the outer edges of the defect.
2. Richtovka vacuum or pneumatic suckers is simple and safe. To do this, apply special suckers to the damaged part. Then from them rolls out all air. This will allow firmly attach the device to the surface of the machine. To eliminate the defect you need to pull the device, and the metal will pull out the suction cup, aligning the initial type.
3. To make body repair with your own hands, you need a gas burner working on propane. With it, it will be necessary to heat damaged detailAnd then sharply cool with water. If everything is done correctly, the metal will deteriorate and, as a result, defects will disappear.

It should be remembered that the work should be done neatly, in a special room and, desirable, under the guidance of an experienced master. The poor performance of the event to restore the appearance of transport may result in serious damage.

Full recovery

It is better to prepare to solid repair of the car and even acquire special devices. If the damage is small, then the recovery procedures are performed independently. To do this, use rattling fixtures.

Modern car stream grows in large pace. Especially in large cities, the intensity of the movement is rapidly, so few of the drivers (especially beginners) can avoid trouble in the form of a traffic accident (accident). Even small damage may turn a rather tangible spending, mainly due to the high price that the wizard is asked for paint-body work.

If the blow was strong and it is necessary to restore the body geometry, then without specialists and expensive equipment can not do. In other cases, if you wish, you can perform bodyworks with your own hands. To do this, you need knowledge of the recovery process for different types of damage, as well as certain tools and materials. Read more about this below.

Types of damage and repair

Paint-body work of the car may be needed even without an accident. For example, you can refresh the appearance of the machine with the body polishing. A more serious option is to eliminate rust and corrosion. In the first case, almost every car enthusiast will cope with independently, and in the second, the skills of painting and welding works will be needed.

Damage after an accident can be different, therefore, the level of preparation will be required to be appropriate. Newcomers will be able to independently eliminate small dents or scratches on the car body. To glue the cracked bumper is also working for everyone.

There is also one tricky way to eliminate even strong damage to individual body elements (doors, hood, trunk). It consists in finding the necessary details on car disassembly. With due luck, the spare part can be solely in the desired color and excellent condition. At the same time, the cost of used body parts is an order of magnitude lower than the price of rattling and painting works, and the time of repair is noticeably reduced. You will only have to replace the desired item. When buying, watch not traces replacement repairOtherwise, soon you will have to fight corrosion.

Required tools

If I could not find the item to replace or place damage does not allow you to change the element without welding (rear wing, roof, threshold, wheel arch, etc.), then check the presence of the necessary tools.

With small repair, you will not need any special special tools. In most cases there will be enough spatula, rubber hammer and grinding machine (you can use a drill or a grinder with the corresponding circle). When working with plastic, a construction hairdryer is useful.

Tools for Richtovka

For dirting work, a special tool is used, which is usually sold by sets. These are mainly hammers of various shapes with a rounded and polished shock surface. Additionally, a variety of levers, hooks and spoons, which still need to know how to apply. If desired, such a tool can be made by itself, but it will require certain efforts and time to study the necessary characteristics. At one time work makes sense to lend or rent the required devices.

Necessary materials

If you miss bodybuilding welding work (newcomers without special training with a welding machine to the car better not to fit), then there are not so many materials for local repairs. Main:

• putty with the approved;
• car paint;
• car varnish;
• sandpaper of different fractions;
• malar tape of different width;
• film for shelter intact details;
• polyrol.

The most difficult and expensive element from this list is paint. Of course, it is possible to use a budget version in the form of auto-email in bells. But in this case, it will be possible to notice the difference in the unarmed look. In this way, you can paint a small plot in a small place. In compliance with the technology of application (about which below), the main purpose of repair will be observed - protection of the body from further destruction due to corrosion. And if you successfully pick up the color, then the cosmetic effect will be noticeable.

If you want more durable metal protection and a beautiful aesthetic look of the part after repair, then you should use more expensive auto-email. When choosing such paint, not only the choice of the manufacturer, but also the right colorist is important. Since even the most expensive enamel can be ruined with improper mixing. As a result, it turns out the wrong color you need. Moreover, it will be noticeable only after painting.

How many components?

The auto shop and the market offer a lot of putty options. Sellers often recommend novice to one-component putty, because it is easier to use it (we are applied - waiting until it dries - with spit). But this option is suitable for pre-sale preparation of the car than for quality repairs. This type of putty is very sensitive to vibrations and can crack after a couple of months.

For better recovery, choose a two-component putty. It consists of directly putty and the approved. Before applying to a damaged section, both elements should be mixed thoroughly (proportions according to the instructions). The more approved, the faster drying. Note that more elastic putty is easier to evenly distribute over the surface.

If the item has strong damage - deep dents up to 5 mm, then it is necessary to pre-use fiberglass putty. It comes with special glue, which has very strong coupling properties. So you will create a strong and fairly smooth base for further work.

Local Body Repair Technology

Let's consider the most popular body repair procedure - partial painting using putty. Recovery always begins with preparation (itself and surface). For yourself, prepare suitable clothing, gloves and a respirator. For repair, we need the above tools and materials listed above.

When everything is at hand, you can proceed to the preparation of a damaged area. It should be carefully cleaned from any dirt (it is better to clean the body of the machine within the meter radius from the place of work). Be sure to cover the remaining parts of the car to avoid accidental damage or unwanted coloring.

Now it is necessary to clean the site from the traces of old paint and rust (if any). In the latter case, it is possible to use the rust converter to prevent its appearance in the future. After that, the surface must be deguted with the solvent. You can proceed to the next step - applying putty.

It should be applied with thin layers. Each next layer is only after complete drying of the previous one. Your goal is perfectly smooth surface. Therefore, grinding will have a lot. You can use simply sandpaper or grinding circle (much faster). Small irregularities will help to detect a powerful lamp, brought close to the place of putty.

Latest strokes

The following is applied by a primer layer, which will protect against corrosion penetration. It should also be carefully stabbed and degreased. Now you can proceed to the final stage - painting. The paint is applied in several layers (3-4 usually enough). At the very end, do not forget to open the renovated part of varnish. After the lacquer dries, you need to polish the surface. If the repair of body works was produced on a plot more than 10 centimeters, then polish better than the entire part. Otherwise, the difference will be noticeable.

Eventually

Body works of VAZ or foreign cars differ only in the cost of basic body parts and the complexity of the rattling (most often imported car stamping). In the rest technological processThe set of tools and materials is identical. It is not necessary to be afraid of the complexity of the repair procedure, but it does not hurt to pre-train on a small area. And everything will succeed!

Body repair of the car can be divided into two stages. The first of them is Richtovka or the removal of the geometry of the machine, in addition, eliminate the dents and the removal of scratches. The second stage is the browning of the body. As a result of all, such a repair is a serious process requiring correct and accurate work. In this article we will talk about the first stage of the body restoration.

Determining the degree of damage

To begin with, the car must be examined to assess the degree of damage. After that, it is necessary to choose one of the varieties of repair.

1. When damage does not cause the strain of the subframe and the body, it is only local repairs of the machine.
2. If damage is very strong and led to distortion of the size between the dots of fixing mechanical nodes, it is necessary to restore the geometric parameters of the entire body.

Any restoration of the car must necessarily be accompanied by the control of its geometry. To do this, you can use templates or conduct computer measurements of body sizes.

For local surface repair, you need a hand tool and rarely - a serious snap. To restore the geometry of the car, it is necessary to complex and expensive equipment (raised, lifts, etc.), which is usually only a hundred.

Defense of body shape

Body elements stamped from sheet metal. In the material under the action of the press, compression and stretching arise, which leads to the relative movement of its molecules. Voltages are formed in the metal, which hold the part form.

The outer elements of the body, as a rule, have a convex form. When you hit, this surface is compressed, aligned, then it becomes concave. When the blow is strong, the metal is pulled out.

Around the deformed area is formed a belt in which the metal is most elongated. This border often generates a clearly pronounced fold that interferes to restore the surface shape. Therefore, it is possible to change the voltages in the metal not throughout the damaged area, but only in the impact zone. Often the body shape is restored when the belt tight points are unloaded, which limits the damage zone.

Before you make body repair with your own hands, remove the paint and primer in the damage zone. Further, free the place of weights. Then start the restoration of the part.

When the dent is large, but shallow, it is straightened by the blow of a straight hammer on its top. If deformation is deep, it must be straightened gradually, starting work from the edge. Under the surface being repaired, at its border, substitute the appropriate applied according to the form.

When there are hard sections in the damaged zone (racks, lining, etc.), first of all correct these elements. The restoration of the metal consists of two main processes: Purpose and Richtovka. Pleasure, in fact, rough giving the body of the original form.

Work best wooden in China. When processing a straight hammer, calculate the strength of the blow, otherwise you grow metal, instead of sitting.

If the damage in the form of a bubble is small, it is enough to simply heat this point. In this case, the operation is completed only when the metal is completely cool. To speed up cooling, use the wet moistened in the water or sponge.

When additional point warming are needed, make them no more than two or three and place in a circle from the central point. After the metal cools, make a slight straightening of this area to finally align the surface.

The location and number of heating points depend on the size and shape of the bubble. If it is round, then the heating points are placed by its radius. When the bubble is thin and long, heating produce narrow rows.

Electric heating alignment

Spot welding without problems heats the metal. This fact uses the body's body repair technology by heating and adjusting its damaged elements using point welding machines.

The general principles of operation of all such equipment are enclosed in the fast local heating of the metal, which is in contact with the coal-type electrode inserted into the holder. Depending on the species of the holder and the various setting of the electrode, the welding can be made by points, direct and curvilinear lines.

In order to correct the defect with this method, preparatory work. First, the deformed area is reflected by conventional tools. But when the dent is small, then you can do without it.

An old paint is removed from the damaged place, which is an insulator. Make it can be grinding or shabra. The point of the compound of the surface with the mass is well cleaned.

Install the electrode into the hardware holder. In this case, an electrode having a flat or convex tip is used to create shrink points. Analogue with a sharp tip is required for shrinking lines. Adjust further on the secondary winding voltage.

For thin metal, the current is sufficient in 40 A. if the body is made of a thicker material, increase this parameter.

Moisten the sponge, place around damage. Its role is cooling and, thereby limiting the heating zone. Enter the electrode for a short time in contact with the metal on the repair site.

If the holder is not moved, the heating points are formed. When the apparatus is moved, you can get shrinkage rows. It is strictly recommended to keep the electrode for a long time in contact with the metal, otherwise you will secure it through.

It is possible to remove the cold bubble only when it is small, and the metal is not pulled out. To this end, the manual anvil is replaced by a soft supporting material. For example, it can be solid wood, fitted by rashpil on the contour of damage or lead casting. Strip hammer for richtovka. Tighten the metal based on such support. Start work from the edges of the bubble and move to its center.

When straying the surface of the car, support is exposed to deformation, it evenly distributes metal molecules. At the same time, the result depends on the level of metal exhaustion.

When the blows cause unacceptable damage to hard-to-reach parts of the body, there is a need for disassembling the trim, and this is troublesome and long. This situation can be avoided. In order not to suffer with disassembly only for the sake of impringing a small deformation, you can remove it with another method.

The traditional method used for such cases is a soldering with tin. After stripping the surface of the metal, it is waving. Further, the dent is filled with tin solder. It is compiled with a file with a bent handle, and then the surface is grouped. It should be noted that such a coating has good adhesion and hardness.

Now more and more distribution is acquired by SPOT. Such technology implies a temporary welding of the electrode to the metal for its pulling. Speed \u200b\u200bvariations a lot. You can welcome the metal electrode or transient elements that have different configurations.

The tip of the welding machine is equipped with a crochet or a collet clamp. The straightening force can be created by a lever or a reverse hammer. The main value of the method is the ability to process the front side of the body without disassembling the trim.

So that you can fully understand all the subtleties of the process, we publish material how to make body repair with your own hands: video.