KamAZ is a historic truck that was used for various purposes. Despite the age of the equipment, it is often used to transport heavy loads such as sand and gravel. Thanks to their work, a large number of residential buildings and other buildings were erected. V Soviet time KamAZ was the most common vehicle, so everyone has heard of the manual “KamAZ - DIY repair”.
Since that time, practically nothing has changed, and KamAZ, as it was popular, has remained. The only difference is that old car models have been replaced by new, more modern and improved vehicles. But be that as it may, all equipment sooner or later fails, and KamAZ is no exception. Therefore, the repair of this equipment is only a matter of time.
Since the drivers trucks in most cases they travel on long-distance flights, they often have to make car repairs vehicle on one's own. Naturally, we are not talking about carrying out a full-fledged repair, since the overhaul of KamAZ provides for the availability of certain tools and spare parts. And the driver is not able to carry all this with him, and there is no need. The essence of the repair is to eliminate minor breakdowns that impede the movement of the machine to the nearest service point.
The main way to prevent breakdowns is prevention. This is especially true when it comes to a KamAZ car. The nuance lies in the fact that the manufacturing plant has its own recommendations for operation vehicle... Such recommendations must be adhered to during the first test period, which is 1 thousand km. Generally speaking, the recommendations relate to the speeding and overloading of the vehicle. Together with by car manual "KamAZ - do-it-yourself repair."
The main purpose of the repair is to prevent more complex breakdowns. The main preventive work includes the periodic replacement of all fluids (as required by the rules for operating a car). All liquids, especially cooling and lubricating fluids, must be selected in accordance with all the rules and requirements. Do not add inappropriate fluid to the vehicle.
If there is a leak in the cooling system, problems with gaskets and valves, then they must be eliminated immediately. If the breakdown was not rectified after detection, then this may lead to more serious problems... Individually, the unit or the fluid pump may fail. 
As for the heart of the car - the engine, its repair should be carried out only when the warning lamp lights up, which indicates the pressure in the lubrication system. When the warning light is on, it is undesirable to continue driving. Stop the car and find out the cause of the problem. Only after the breakdown is eliminated, you can continue driving. “Do-it-yourself KamAZ repair”, a video of which can be found on the Internet, is a unique tool, especially when it comes to the engine.
- If during the operation of the car there is a leakage of the liquid of the cooling system, then the problem can be solved with the help of water, which is added to the system. This is enough to get to the service station.
- If the car often drives through mud, then it is necessary to regularly clean the radiator from it, which will save this component of the cooling system from repairing. It is necessary to rinse with water, but so that it splashes onto the generator.
- Remove the vehicle before towing the vehicle. cardan shaft... This will save the car's gearbox from being repaired.
Thanks to such advice and preventive work, you can postpone car repairs for a long time.
Video: Wheel hub. KamAZ. Crown repair
This article describes the process of repair (restoration) of the Kamaz cab. At the beginning of the article, we will consider a step-by-step analysis of the Kamaz cab, and at the end of the article, we will watch a video of repairing the Kamaz cab with our own hands, and in particular, we will consider all the welding work required when repairing the cab. So let's go!
To remove the cab:
- raise the front cladding panel of the cab;
- disconnect the connector block for the wiring of the sidelights;
- unscrew the bolts securing the front bumper and remove it;
- disconnect the plug pads of the right and left wiring harnesses;
- disconnect the intermediate link of the brake valve from the bracket located on the left side member by unpinning and removing the link pin;
- disconnect the fuel control rod;
- disconnect the hydraulic hose of the clutch pneumatic hydraulic booster and drain the fluid from the hydraulic drive;
- bleed the air from the receivers of the circuits and disconnect all air hoses installed on the brackets on the front panel of the cab;
- unpin and unscrew the wedge nut cardan shaft steering, use a soft metal drift to knock out the wedge;
- disconnect the steering propeller shaft;
- disconnect the radiator shutter drive cable;
- close the cock of the cab heater and disconnect the coolant inlet and outlet hose;
- remove the lock washers from the right and left pins of the front brackets of the cab supports; open the locking devices on the left and right sides, release the safety hook and tilt the cab 42 °;
- unpin and remove the cab tilt limiter pin located on the cab bracket;
- while supporting the cab, tilt it 60 °;
- unscrew the tie bolts and remove the torsion bar levers;
- open the cab doors;
- bring the crane-beam and, using the device, grab the cab by the upper shelves of the doorways;
- supporting the cab with a crane, unpin and remove the pin of the lower post of the cab stop;
- carefully lower the cab to its original position;
- relieve the axle of the front cab supports by lifting the cab with a beam crane, remove the axles from the right and left brackets;
- lift the cab with a crane and place it on a stand.
Remove the front supports only after removing the cab. To remove the lower and upper brackets, unscrew the bolts securing them to the frame and to the cross member of the cab floor. The upper brackets are fixed in the floor to floating plates with threaded holes, which, if necessary, can be replaced from the inside of the cab through the oval holes in the floor or through the hole for the steering column by bending the floor beam inserts that fix them.
When installing the lower brackets, make sure that the alignment of the holes of both brackets is preserved, and finally tighten the bolts for fastening the upper brackets after installing them in the lower brackets and connecting them with their axles, but while the cab is still suspended and the front supports are not loaded with its weight.
Removal and installation of doors. To remove the door, unpin the pin connecting the door opener to the bracket on the inner door panel, then remove the bolts securing the door hinges to the front cab pillar.
Install the doors with the installed lock and door lock striker. Before tightening the bolts securing the hinges to the rack, lock the lock to the second detent position. To avoid friction between the lock wedge and the retainer, first insert some 1 ... 1.5 mm thick gasket (preferably polyethylene) into the retainer groove, which should be removed after tightening the door hinge bolts. In this case, the gap between the door and the door opening along the entire opening is kept constant (6 ... 10 mm).
Removing the hatch cover of the inner door panel. In order to provide access to the door mechanisms, as well as the dismantling of the lock mechanisms, window regulator, glass, you must first remove the hatch cover of the inner door panel.
To do this, remove the inner handles of the door lock and window regulator, for which press the plastic socket under the handle and remove the handle securing pin. Then remove the screws securing the door hatch cover and remove the cover.
Remove the door lock through the hatch of the inner door panel in the following order:
remove the hatch cover;
Remove the three drive mounting bolts. Turning the drive, disengage it from the rod and take it out through the hatch;
unscrew the screws securing the lock from the end of the door and take it out through the hatch.
Install the lock in reverse order. When assembling the drive and the lock, lubricate all rubbing surfaces and springs with MZ-10 grease.
To remove the lock, remove the screws that secure it to the back rack cab sidewalls.
In the event of a malfunction of the outside door handle lock button, the button can be removed after removing the outside handle. To remove the outer handle, unscrew the two screws through the hatch of the inner door panel, securing it from the side of the inner door panel. Remember to install the button seal when installing the button.
Remove the window regulator through the hatch of the inner door panel in the following order:
- remove the hatch cover;
- use the window regulator handle to move the glass to such a position in which the lowering glass holder will be located against the hatch;
- remove the clamping bar through the hatch by unscrewing the fastening bolts;
- remove the screws securing the power window;
- take out the window regulator through the sunroof.
When assembling the window regulator, lubricate all rubbing surfaces with Litol-24 grease.
Remove the sliding door glass in the following order:
- remove the door hatch cover;
- remove the window regulator;
- unscrew the screws of the removable holder for the glass seal (under the door pocket) and disengage the removable holder from the main holder, then disconnect it from the door seal and take it out through the hatch;
- take out the rubber buffer of the lower glass stop through the hatch;
- lower the glass with your hands, tilt and move it forward so that it stands opposite the hatch;
- remove the glass through the hatch.
Adjustment and removal of the rotary window. The glass of the swivel window holds the spring holder of the lower axis in any position, even with a strong headwind. The ease of turning the window and the reliability of its fixation can be adjusted by tightening the holder screw, for which remove the plastic plug of the hole under the lower axis of the window and tighten or loosen the holder adjusting screw with a screwdriver.
To remove the glass of the window, unscrew the holder screw and the screws securing the upper axis of the shape point. Then, moving the window upward, remove the lower axis from the holder and seal of the window
Carry out the removal and installation of windshields and rear windows in the same way in the following order:
- remove the wiper arms;
- remove the rubber seal of the middle pillar of the window;
- remove the metal cladding from the joint of the seal edging and the seal edging around the entire perimeter;
- pressing with your hands on the upper corners of the glass from the cab, remove the seal from the flange of the opening and, bending the edge of the seal, remove the glass and the seal;
- clean the sealant from the paste.
To install glasses:
- lubricate the grooves of the seal with fresh paste;
- bending the edge of the seal, insert glass into the seal (it is convenient to do this by placing the seal face up on the table);
- put the edging of the seal so that its joint is at the bottom of the window, and put a metal lining on the joint of the edging;
- insert the rubber lock of the window B-pillar seal;
- insert a strong twine or cord into the groove (designed to connect the seal with the flange of the window opening) so that the ends are at the bottom of the seal;
- install the glass together with the sealant in the opening wind window by pressing them from the outside to the flange;
- holding one end of the twine, pull smoothly, without jerks, by the other end, thus pulling the seal valve through the flange of the window opening. To facilitate this operation, you can use a screwdriver;
- clean the glass and the window opening from excess paste;
- install the wiper arms.
When using a seal made of an open profile, it is easier to install glass by first installing the seal in the opening, and then, bending the edges of the seal, first insert one glass from the outside, then another glass (it is easier to do this by inserting the glasses from the middle to the edges), and then refuel B-pillar profile. Then insert the B-pillar itself, the edging of the gasket with lining and the B-pillar lock.
To improve the sealing of the glass, after installation, a rubber adhesive can be introduced between the edge of the seal and the glass in the lower half of the window contour.
Install the roof ventilation hatch cover in the following order:
- place the ventilation hatch cover on top of the roof opening;
- from the inside or outside, lift the front part of the cover and insert the levers into the lugs of the brackets, with a movable roller in the lugs of the manhole cover brackets, and then lower the hatch cover;
- from the outside, lift the rear of the sunroof cover forward, and use a screwdriver to insert the rear levers.
If a defect occurs - the levers of the roof ventilation hatch cover fall out - eliminate the deformation of the brackets 8, against which the rollers of the hatch cover levers rest.
To remove the heater fans, unscrew the screws securing the fan casing, disconnect the leads of the electric motor. Then remove the screws securing the rubber-metal flange of the electric motor to the fan volute and remove the electric motor with the fan impeller. Remove the screw securing the fan impeller to the motor shaft and remove the impeller.
When installing, connect the leads of the electric motor to the wires so that the impeller of the left fan rotates clockwise, and the impeller of the right fan rotates counterclockwise, as viewed from the cab. To do this, at the left fan motor, connect the black lead to the green wire from the wire harness, and the red lead of the electric motor to the ground wire. For the right fan motor, the opposite is true: the red terminal with the green wire of the bundle, and the black terminal with the ground wire.
When using non-reversible electric motors ME 226, it is necessary to distinguish between electric motors of right and left rotation, and an electric motor of left rotation ME 226V must be installed on the left fan, and an electric motor of right rotation ME 226K must be installed on the right fan. In this case, connect the green wire from the bundle of wires to the plug on the motor cover, parallel to the plane of the cover, and the ground wire to the plug parallel to the axis of rotation of the motor.
To remove the heater drive, remove the levers of the crane and control levers by unscrewing the screws and their fasteners, unscrew the screws securing the drive to the panel under the dashboard, remove the scale and the drive. Unscrew the screws of the clamps of the sheaths of the cable, unpin and remove the cables of the drives. To remove the levers, unscrew the levers axle retaining nut. When assembling the actuator, tighten the nut on the shaft of the actuator handles so as to ensure easy movement of the handles, and secure it with a cotter pin. Lubricate rubbing parts before assembly.
When installing the air ducts, the air supply hose to the left vent on the dashboard must pass between the wiper rods.
Remove the seats in the following order:
- overturn the cab;
- remove the bottom thermal insulation of the floor;
- unscrew the nuts securing the seats under the cab floor (four nuts each for the driver's and middle passenger's seats and six nuts for the outer passenger's seat);
- lower the cab and remove the seats.
When installing, secure the seats with self-locking nuts only. Lubricate all friction surfaces of seat hinges, torsion bars, movement mechanisms during assembly with Litol-24 grease.
To remove the cab upholstery:
- remove the hook for clothes, hinges for the curtain of the berth, the ceiling of the berth;
- use a screwdriver to remove the sidewall trim fastening clips;
- remove the upper, rear and lower side trims;
- remove the upper part of the rear upholstery (after removing the glass seals rear windows, first aid kits);
- remove the roof bar around the ventilation hatch by removing your fingers and paper clips;
- remove the cabin lighting shade;
- remove the lining of the seat belts of the berth and the guide of the curtain of the berth;
- take out the fastening clips of the rear part of the headliner and remove it;
- remove the clips securing the front of the headliner and, pushing it back, remove it;
- remove, taking out the fastening clips, the upholstery of the lower part of the tailgate (made of artificial leather with artificial felt);
- remove the side front thermal insulation by removing the plastic clips of their fastening, and then both thermal insulation of the front, removing the rubber clips of their fastening.
The seats must be removed to remove the upholstery and floor insulation.
Install the cab upholstery in the reverse order, that is, first the thermal insulation of the front panel, then the sidewalls, first fix the front part of the roof lining, then the rear, then the rear upholstery, then the sidewalls.
It is better to install rubber clips using a special frame or a rod inserted into the hole of the clip and pulling it out when inserted into the hole.
Install the front section of the roof trim or the roof trim (cabins without berths) as follows: insert the front section of the trim under the front roof reinforcement, slide the trim forward until the side grooves of the trim line up with the roof reinforcements. Press the upholstery up against the roof. Using an awl through the fastening holes in the upholstery ”, feel for the fastening holes in the roof reinforcements, align the holes and insert the paper clips. Also insert paper clips and other upholstery. Insert pins 5x18 with washers into the four holes for fastening the ventilation hatch head in the front and behind the hatch and fasten the cotter pin in the upper part, in the other four - with paper clips.
To remove the instrument panel, open the instrument panel by unscrewing the two screws in its upper part, the switch panel and disconnect all instruments and switches from the wires, then remove the bolts securing the fuse bracket (in the middle of the instrument panel). After that, bend the brackets securing the bundle of wires on the lower part of the dashboard and remove the bundle together with the fuse holder from the instrument panel. Remove the hoses from the windshield blow-off nozzles and the door windscreen deflectors (it is more convenient to remove these hoses from the air distributor pipes). Remove the bolts securing the lower shields with rods for the cab heater, radiator louvers, etc.
Remove the bolts securing the instrument panel to the sidewalls, to the two side gussets, to the steering column bracket. Remove the bolts securing the instrument panel to the front panel (through the openings of the instrument panel, switch panel, glove box, and if the box is not removed, then from below, from under the dashboard) and remove the dashboard.
To remove the glove box, open the door, unscrew the screws securing the limiter to the door, the screws securing the box to the lower wall of the dashboard and to the racks (from the inside of the box) or unscrew the mountings of the racks to the dashboard (if you need to remove the racks): on the left, after opening the switch panel, unscrew two screws, and on the right - from below from under the dashboard - two bolts. Take the drawer out and unscrew the door hinges. Spacer in the connection of the front and back parts the front fenders may be broken. In this case, cut off or break off the remnants of the spacer, drill through hole in both parts of the wing and, installing between them a metal or plastic spacer with a hole for the bolt, pull off both parts of the wing with a bolt with a self-locking nut.
As promised at the very beginning - a video about repairing a Kamaz cab with your own hands: Welding work.
As always, you can ask your questions on our Kamaz Forum where competent and experienced drivers will answer you.
Natural for Kamaz "disease".
Over time, the bottom of the old tractor “rots” under the feet of the passenger and the driver, as well as the wings of the cab. Well ... We will start repairing the KamAZ cab first of all with cutting off the old wings and installing new ones.
welding cab wing kamaz
Welding the amplifier and replacing the threshold
As you can see in the photo above, you only need an amplifier to cook for the cockpit. The wing is bolted to the cockpit. Its function is mainly to reinforce the body. It is part of the entire Cab frame.
Specifically in in this case the old amplifier was cut higher than usual (corrosion was at this level). And so, we look at the photo of the welding place.
Welding amplifier with inside cockpit bobbins
welding of the amplifier in the front
welding of the amplifier at the front
Welding to the bottom amplifier and bottom.
Here, first weld the amplifier.
- then the threshold to the amplifier.
- At the same time, look outside the door so that it does not get pulled together during welding.
- Having adjusted the gaps, then we cook (the bottom) and all that remains.
- When replacing thresholds. Remember to drill holes. as shown in the photos above.)
REPAIR CABINS KAMAZ 5320, 5511,55102
After overhaul cabins.
How to putty a car, (training)
After welding robot. The putty process is in progress. It is worn on clean metal, (after processing) with a grinder, or manually with sandpaper, until it shines, from rust and paint. I advise the first layer of putty, body with aluminum powder.
Here you say; This is what they show us, we are talking about KAMAZ. And they show a foreign car. I will say this is a piece taken from my (video) disc. Best video on putty not who (on kamaz,) did not take off. They did not want to reveal which car (to putty), it makes no difference: There is only one process,
a course on how to apply putty. (Watch the video below.)
Putty tools.
- large spatula for large dents.
- Medium spatula. for medium dents.
- Small for small ones.
- Grinding machine. All information about the tools: shown (video) on top of the course on how to putty a car.
Painting Kamaz.
- After painting. It must be dried in a box, at a temperature not lower than 20 g.
Since truck drivers often travel long distances, they often have to carry out Kamaz repairs with their own hands. Of course, in most cases, we are not talking about a full-fledged repair - the driver cannot drag a trailer with spare parts with him. Nevertheless, the driver's task is to correctly diagnose and take measures in order to safely return to base or drive to a car service.
However, the main way to prevent breakdowns is prevention. Moreover, for such a car as Kamaz, repair and maintenance is carried out in strict accordance with the factory recommendations. The manufacturer provides for the initial period of operation of the new vehicle - one thousand kilometers. During this period, it is especially important to follow all the manufacturer's recommendations, in particular, not to exceed the speed of fifty kilometers per hour and not to load the car by more than 75 percent of the nominal value. Moreover, for each new car the entire set of documents is attached, including the KamAZ repair manual.
Basic rules for operating a car. Frequent repairs
It is clear that repairs are aimed primarily at preventing more serious breakdowns... This kind of preventive measures includes timely replacement all working fluids Got it. that lubricants and coolants should be selected in strict accordance with the existing recommendations of the car manufacturer.
Leaks in the cooling system, faults in valves and tank gaskets must be eliminated without fail immediately after their detection. Otherwise, all this can lead to cavitation destruction of the unit and the liquid pump.
And, say, do-it-yourself repair of a Kamaz engine may be required if the pressure alarm in the lubrication system lights up. In this case, it is undesirable to continue driving until the malfunction is found and eliminated. The use of a machine with a leaky intake tract can also lead to premature engine failure.
In order to avoid cracks in the cylinder head fastening bosses, it is necessary to reliably isolate the threaded holes for the bolts from the ingress of dirt or liquid. It is especially important to perform such insulation if work is planned to be carried out to replace the engine heads.
Sometimes repairs may require maintenance welding works... In this case, it is very important to check the disconnection of the battery. Also, the positive contact must be removed from the generator. As for the ground wire of the welding machine, it should be connected close to the weld.
As you know, repairs will be performed less often if the car is provided with proper operating conditions. However, there are also recommendations on how to behave with a faulty car:
- if a coolant leak occurs while driving, the cooling system can be refilled with water. You should know that this measure is temporary. Such a coolant can be used to drive to the place of repair,
- if the machine is moved on roads with liquid mud, it is necessary to periodically flush the radiator surface with water under pressure. This will avoid a procedure like. In order to carry out such a flushing, the cab must be raised. Make sure that the water jet does not hit the generator,
- towing a car with idle engine must necessarily include the operation to remove the propeller shaft. This will help to postpone the repair of the KAMAZ gearbox, because otherwise you will be provided with scuffing of the bearings of the gears of the secondary shaft in the gearbox.
Maintenance intervals
As already mentioned, the importance of preventive check-ups cannot be underestimated. Indeed, thanks to this, you can avoid such manipulations, as, and you can insure yourself against unpleasant breakdowns while driving.
You need to perform a daily inspection of the main parts and assemblies. This inspection also includes checking the level of working fluids, as well as several other manipulations:
- checking the status of the steering drive,
- checking the operation of all braking systems,
- checking the condition of wheels and tires.
In order to ensure the trouble-free operation of all units, scheduled inspections are carried out. Their frequency is twice a year. Such inspections are called seasonal maintenance and are intended to prepare the vehicle for use in winter and summer, respectively.
Before operating the car, you must carefully study this manual and further follow the recommendations set out in it.
The new car must be registered. This provides technical advice on the operation and maintenance of the vehicle, supply of spare parts and warranty service. A service book is attached to each vehicle.
To ensure the perfect operation of the vehicle, only factory-made spare parts should be used. The installation of various equipment and mechanisms on a car and its chassis should be agreed with the developer and holder of design documentation - with the Directorate for the development and implementation of new developments of KamAZ. Otherwise, the vehicle is not subject to warranty service.
For the initial period of operation of a new car, a mileage of 1000 km is set, during which it is necessary to comply with the requirements specified in section "6. Operation of the car".
When operating a car, it is necessary to use brands of fuel, lubricants and operating materials in accordance with this manual.
Faulty valves and tank plug gaskets, leaks in the cooling system connections and insufficient coolant level lead to cavitation destruction of the liquid pump and block.
When the warning lamp of an emergency pressure drop in the lubrication system of the engine comes on, stop the engine, find and eliminate the malfunction.
Monitor the temperature of the fluid in the engine cooling system: when the emergency fluid overheating indicator comes on, stop the engine, find and eliminate the malfunction.
Operation with a leaky intake manifold will result in premature engine failure. At each TO-2, check the integrity of the rubber pipes, air ducts and the reliability of the connections, eliminate the leakage of the path.
When transporting bulk, dusty goods in an open platform, increased dustiness of the ambient air or the presence of a tarpaulin on the platform, lift the air intake hood using the attachment supplied with the vehicle.
To prevent the occurrence of cracks in the bosses for the cylinder head bolts, it is necessary to protect the threaded holes for the bolts from the ingress of liquid or dirt when disassembling the engine, and especially before installing the cylinder heads.
When carrying out electric welding work on the car, the rechargeable batteries remote switch and removed the wires from the terminals "+" of the generator and B, O of the brush holder.
The ground wire of the welding machine must be connected in the immediate vicinity of the weld.
If there is a dent more than 2 mm deep on the reaction rod pipe, cracks or bent over 3 mm along the entire length, the reaction rod must be replaced.
When loading, make sure that the load is evenly distributed on the platform, not overloading its front.
In the event of a problem on the road associated with a coolant leak, you can briefly use water in the cooling system, but only for the duration of the journey to the place where the malfunction can be eliminated.
When driving for a long time on muddy roads (with liquid mud), periodically rinse the radiator surface with water with sufficient pressure from a hose. To do this, raise the cab and direct the water jet towards the radiator from the engine side. Do not spill water directly onto the generator.
It is strictly forbidden to tow a car with an inoperative engine without removing the intermediate propeller shaft in order to avoid scuffing the bearings of the gears of the gearbox output shaft.
Apply on engine fuel equipment provided by the design of this model.
The plant reserves the right to further improve the design of the vehicle without prior warning to consumers.
Security measures
All faults found during the inspection of the car must be eliminated.
Do not lubricate or clean a running engine.
In case of fire diesel fuel, cover the flame with earth, sand or cover it with felt or tarpaulin, use a fire extinguisher. It is strictly forbidden to flood burning fuel with water.
Open the cork expansion tank When the engine is overheated, be careful not to burn your hands from the steam. Coolant vapors are explosive.
When braking with the auxiliary braking system, do not change gears in the gearbox.
Do not turn off the engine while coasting, as this will turn off the pneumatic compressor brake system and power steering.
