Front suspension:
1 - subframe;
2 - pendant lever with silent blocks and ballproof;
3 - swivel fist with a hub and bearing;
4 – shock absorber stand;
5 - Stabilizer Bar transverse stability
Front suspension independent, such as Mac-Fersson with transverse triangular levers and transverse stability stabilizer (parts of cars).
The base of the suspension is a telescopic shock absorbing rack that allows the wheels to move up and down when driving irregularities and simultaneously extinguish the body fluctuations.
On the bottom, the rack is fastened with two bolts with nuts to a twilty fist, and on top of a nut - through a rinometallic support to the body.
Front suspension elements by car:
1 - lever;
2 - subframe;
3 - bolt fastening the lever to the subframe;
4 - rod of transverse stability stabilizer;
5 - stabilizer rod fixing brackets to subframe;
6 - shock absorbing rack;
7 - swivel fist;
8 - elements of fastening the rod of the stabilizer to the lever;
9 - Cable terminal bolt swivel fist and the finger of the ball support;
10 - ball support
For effective damping of body fluctuations and improving the controllability and stability of the car in the rack housing, a two-pipe gas-filled shock absorber has a higher characteristic than a conventional hydraulic shock absorber. The bottom support cup of the spring is welded to the middle part of the rack housing, and to the bottom of the rack, the bracket for fastening the rack to the twilty fist. A compression stroke buffer is installed on the shock absorber stem, made at the same time with a protective case. From above, the spring rests in the upper support cup mounted on the shock absorber. Between the top cup of the spring and the upper support of the rack, the thrust ball bearing is installed, allowing the rack housing to rotate together with the spring, and the shock absorber should remain fixed.
Stretcher:
1 - the points of the front fastening of the subframe to the body;
2 - Points of fastening the suspension lever to the subframe;
3 - Points of rear fastening of the subframe and transverse stability stabilizer;
4 - Bracket fastening the suspension cushions of the exhaust gas release system;
5 - Bracket fastening the rear support of the power unit
Front suspension lever:
1 - lever;
2 - Support Case;
3 - ball support;
4 - Silent block
Brake and traction forces when driving a car are perceived by pendant levers connected through ball supports with swivel fists and - through the silent blocks with a subframe.
The subframe is rigidly attached to the body four bolts, the two rear bolts also fasten the brackets of the rod stabilizer stabilizer to the subframe. At the front bolt of fastening the suspension lever to the subframe, the bracket is fixed, the second end of which is attached to the body.
Details of the amortized rack:
1 - telescopic rack;
2 - spring;
3 - compression buffer with protective cover;
4 - Nut mounting racks to the body;
5 - Support washer;
6 - Nut fastening top support;
7 - top support rack;
8 - top support bearing;
9 - Top Cup of Springs
Elements of the transverse stability stabilizer:
1 - nut;
2 - lower rubber sleeve;
3 - intermediate rubberometallic sleeve;
4 - plastic washer;
5 - upper rubber bushing;
6 - screw;
7 - stabilizer rod;
8 - bracket;
9 - Stabilizer Bar Pillow
Pipe assembly front wheel
:
1 - swivel fist;
2 - Bearing hub;
3 - Installation Ring Speed \u200b\u200bSensor;
4 - wheel hub
Device of the two-row bearing hub (For clarity, elements of one row are extracted from the outer ring of the bearing):
1 - the outer ring of the bearing;
2 - inner ring of bearing;
3 - separator with balls;
4 - seal;
5 - Protective washer
The housing of the ball support is pressed into the hole of the suspension lever, the support is closed with a rubber cover.
Finger Ball hinge support is fastened with a terminal compound with a tighter bolt in the tears of a swivel fist.
A two-rowed radial-thrust ball bearing with a closed type is pressed into the hole of the swivel fist, and the wheel hub is pressed into the inner rings of the bearing.
Internal rings are tightened (through the hub) nut on the threaded part of the shank of the exterior wheel drive hinge.
In operation, the bearing is not regulated and does not require the replenishment of lubrication.
Car hub bearings with ABS and without ABS are not interchangeable. Bearing nuts of both wheels are the same, with the right thread.
Parts of the car establishes a transverse stability stabilizer.
The rod of the transverse stability stabilizer is made of spring steel. The rod in its middle part is attached to the subframe of brackets through rubber pillows. Both ends of the stabilizer rod through screws with rubber and rubberometallic sleeves are connected to the suspension levers. In the middle part of the stabilizer bar, it is bending over the receiving pipe of the exhaust gas release system.
The angle of the longitudinal tilt axis of the turn of the front wheel (2 ° 42 '± 30') and the wheel of the collapse of the wheel (-0 ° 10 '± 30') are set constructively and are not subject to adjustment. These angles can only be checked on a special stand (at the station maintenance) And compare with the control values. In the event that the values \u200b\u200bof the angle angles of the front wheels do not correspond to the control values, it is necessary to check the status of the elements of the front suspension.
The wheel alignment (-0 ° 10 '± 10') is adjusted by changing the length of the steering (see
Material from the encyclopedia of the journal "driving"
Check and adjusting thermal gaps in the valve drive
Works carry out when the cylinder head appears in the zone of the cylinder block of characteristic "clawing" knocks with a frequency of twice as smaller frequency of rotation crankshaft. Basically, knocks arise as a result of wear of the valve mechanism and the associated increase in thermal gaps in the valve drive. The knocks are well auditioned when the engine is idling.
The clearance check is also recommended to perform over 100 thousand km during the car.
We carry out work on a cold engine.
Remove the cylinder head cover (see "Replacing the gasket of the cylinder head cover").
Location of valves in the head of the cylinder block:
1 - a number of intake valves;
2 - series of exhaust valves
Removing the top cover of the timing belt and by label on toothed pulley The camshaft set the piston of the first cylinder in the NTT at the end of the compression tact (see "Checking the condition and replacing the drive belt of the engine of the engine 1.4-1.6 (8V)").
Cylinder account is conducted from flywheel.
Then, alternately check and, if necessary, adjust the gaps in the inlet drive and exhaust valve 1st cylinder. When checking (in this position of the crankshaft and distributional shafts) The heels of the rocker of the specified valves must be facing the cylindrical parts of the camshaft camshaft. At the same time, the rockers can swing on the axis within the gap in the drive.
Flat knobs from the set check the thermal gap between the ends of the valve rod and the adjusting screw.
The clearance must be in the range of 0.2 + 0.05 - 0.075 mm for intake valves and 0.4 + 0.05 - 0.075 mm for graduation. The dipstick should move in the gap with a little effort. If the amount of the gap (the thickness of the probe) differs from the desired value ...
... The key "on 10" weakening the tightening of the adjusting screw controlling, while holding the scold for the lyout (width - 3 mm) by the filter key.
Then, rotating the adjusting screw, set the desired gap.
Tighten the lock nut while holding the adjusting screw with the key. We again check the gap and repeat adjustment if necessary.
Consistently turning the crankshaft clockwise per bolt fixing the drive pulley auxiliary aggregates 180 °, we check and, if necessary, adjust the thermal gaps in the valve drive of the 3rd, 4th and 2nd cylinders.
At the end of the control of thermal gaps in the valve drive, install the details in the reverse sequence.
Hello. I share with all interested in your personal feelings regarding Sundero Stepway 2016. In the configuration "Breeding" with the engine H4M (113 hp).
At the moment (05.10.18), mileage from 07/30/16 amounted to 87864 km, which certainly allows you to write some reviews. No problems in operation did not deliver the car. At all. One replacement is the right ball for 76,000 km. Everything.
The dealer had only to-1. Further in proven services where everything stipulated by the regulatory Works are performed better quality, but 1.5-2 times cheaper. Oil after 15000 changed after 10,000 km. Together with him, immediately changed all filters (I mean air and saloon). Everything else (candles, generator belt, cleaning brake drums, choke, air conditioning ...) served strictly with Renault Rules.
Components bought only original, oil only ELF. The ideas of "experienced" type "still like", etc. politely noted. I am sure that it is this approach to servicing any car that provides its trouble-free operation. (I am a supporter of Soviet planning and preventive repair). This is my opinion. It is checked on all previous machines. (My feedback about patriot).
The H4M engine for the stewed in general is good. Pulls cheerfully. Up to 140-150 km / h accelerates without problems, but consumption is mad (13-14 liters). On the route 110-120 km / h goes easily. Accelerated on the 5th gear from 80-90 km / h also without choking. But if it slowed down in front of the Four up to 70 or lower, then for fast overtaking it is necessary to move to the 4th. I do not see a significant problem. This is if you go with one passenger with a minimum of things. If you still put one person and the trunk to throw as junk as, then it will have to go to the 4th.
For everyday urban ride and runs 113 hp Just once, maybe another 102 hp Will go, but no less. 82 hp - These are only small towns and villages. This is my opinion. No offense.
Butter is not eats. Up to 40 thousand, somewhere, still checked. It does not leave the oil and stands at the level of the same during the entire mileage from replacement before replacement. Then the verification stopped, tired. No, before a donkey, the habit of course I look just in case. Tire pressure at the same time check, tightening nuts, fastening numbers. It is generally as a teeth clean, the opposite.
It is written that on the engine H4M in the period of 80-100 thousand km to adjust the valve. Here I think. For rumor, the engine works calmly, there are no clasions on the cold, nor on a heated, but the oil does not eat, pulls fine. To climb into the engine or well in FIG? We'll see.
The photo presents my mileage from 08/01/18 to 05.10.18 (7696 km) and average flow (8.4 l). This included 3 weeks of daily ride on Yaroslavl in August, runs on the highway M-8 from / to Arkhangelsk region, on the local roads of the Arkhangelsk region (asphalt and primers), fishing, mushrooms, potatoes and other household trips. Many or little to flow? I think tolerant.
It categorically dislike Bad Aerodynamics of the body. In particular, in the rain, slush snowy, etc. Night splashes instantly side glass and rearview mirror. In trash. Nothing can see 30-40 minutes away. Especially in winter, the track treated with reagents. Nothing helps. Deflectors too. I bought a rubber scraper in the shopping store for car wash and sprayer. Stay, I splashes, I clean and go on. So what to do?
In the cabin is closed. Well, you yourself know and have seen. About the cold left foot who no longer wrote.
Like many, I put the grids in the lattice, rubber compressor from VAZ-2108 under the hood from dirt. The dirt is less, but it does not save from it.
Machine itself - empty cans. There is no sound insulation. Therefore, he gave it to a specialized salon in Arkhangelsk, where there were 3-Heslaya gender, arches, doors, trunk. Helped noticeably. Only in rear door Not climbed. There is simply nowhere and no sense.
LCP good. Skoli do not rust. Clearly visible galvanized.
Categorically plus clearance in 195 mm. In winter, he combined with Hakkapellite-7 allows you to safely ride the unclean yards of our northern cities.
The suspension is already known to everyone. Who is not aware of warning that the racks with a sharp point make a certain knock. So B0 is arranged what to do. Noticeably only on "lying policemen." Keep this in mind, do not be afraid and do not swear with the dealer. The rest of the suspension on any coverage is very comfortable.
The climate is so-so. In the cold and in the rain it is better to go to the manual mode and put blowing the "glass-legs" or how it is more convenient for you. The climate lives in its program, blowing the air as he needs, and not the driver. He holds the temperature, there is no dispute. Only the sense of this is not enough if the glass is tightened. I also noticed when the air temperature overboard and inside the Salon is the same, the climate stops the air in general. Really begin to choke, urgently open the window, reducing the temperature. Perhaps I have such an organism and others do not notice. We are all different. Is not it? So if you have the opportunity to take the car just with kondeem, then take it with it, without climate.
CAT works softly and clearly. The oil in it was 60000 km. 5 steps grabs. At first it seemed that there was not enough 6th. Now I understand that just right. And it can be used to just .... in short, it does not strain at all.
In general, the car with minimal care reliable and unfortunate. In our difficult time it is important.
That's all seems to. If I remember myself or dear readers remind you, then I will add.
Good luck to all. Do not forget together with the documents to take a brain and conscience into the car.
Regards, Yuri.
Riding on our roads negatively affects the work of the car suspension, and over time will have to be repaired. Therefore, in order to identify and eliminate all the faults, it is desirable to know how the whole system is arranged.
The front suspension of Renault Sandero has a MacPherson system represented as a depreciation system with an independent right-hand and left wheel. All work this device Based on transverse levers, each of which assumes the load when driving on an uneven surface. But the transverse traction associated with each other, together take the entire incoming load.
In addition, the front axle of the sencture has a transverse stability stabilizer, due to which the roll decreases, and due to the torsion principle, all existing levers create an artificial force that the body is returned to a horizontal position.
While driving on irregularities, all blows and loads take on the front racks, which together with the levers soften the blows from all the irregularities appearing on the road. Racks perform the role of dampers in the form of cylinders, which contain gas under pressure.
Suspension rear
The rear agenda Renault Sandero has a semi-dependent suspension, working on a torsion principle. Due to this, the price of this model is rather reliable at the same time. This mechanism is a conventional steel beam in the form of a closed rod with gas oil racks, thanks to which amortization is provided. The minus of this design is that if the blow occurs on one of the wheels, it is transmitted to the second, it leads to the fact that the blow feel the sitting from behind.
Fault
Among the suspension problems that may meet Renault Sandero. Foreign sneakers and knocks are common. They appear as a result of the wear of the connecting nodes, deformation of the sleeves and levers.
If foreign sounds appear during the passage of irregularities, then the first thing you need to look for the reason for the silent blocks. This item is rubber sleeve which participates in mitigating a strike. Moisture, various reagents, as well as temperature drops result in their wear, resulting in a deaf knock.
If a foreign sound appears when driving roven road You should pay attention to Silent blocks, as they take on a large load. Another of the common causes of foreign noise can be worn stoics, which over time lose the gas mixture in them. Strong creak can speak from the fact that the transverse stability stabilizer is faulty and the stabilizer bushings are required.
Summing up We can conclude that the rear and front suspension Renault Sander Stepway has a simple, durable, as well as the most comfortable design. Thanks to this, without any problems, it is possible to determine the cause of the fault and independently replace, saving the decent amount of money.
The appearance of various noise and knock on a trip by car in most cases is the cause of faults in the chassis. And so that the minor breakdowns are not turned into great troubles, it is necessary to conduct its timely repairs.
Causes of extraneous noise and knocks
In order to conduct an independent inspection, and, if necessary, repair, the lift or observation pit will be required.
Support stand
For comparison: old and new support rack on Logan
Before proceeding with the inspection of the suspension under the car, first of all, estimate the state of the front racks supports. To do this, it is necessary to open the hood and evaluate the gap at the stubborn cup of the spring.
Check the gaps!
If the gap exceeds 1 cm or it is distinguished on the opposite side, this suggests that the supports seen on small bodies they do not quit strikes, therefore, they need a replacement.
Shock absorbers racks
The presence of a deaf stuff in parts of the front suspension can talk about defects in one of the struts of shock absorbers. The easiest way to conduct diagnostics is alternately to dig a car on the left and right side. If there are good shock absorbers, the car smoothly returned to its original position, already on the first or second free move.
The presence of heights, the unsatisfactory state of the bumps will also say that the rack should be replaced.
Rack of transverse stability stabilizer
Checking this element of the chassis is carried out when the car is under load. By swinging the car, pay attention to the course of the cup relative to the lever itself. If this element is malfunction, it will jump and publish a characteristic knock, which in turn is undoubtedly observed when driving on an uneven road.
Inspection and replacement of the rack of the transverse stability stabilizer
The same applies to the bushings of the transverse stability stabilizer. When they wear them in places of contact with the rod, the backlash and free move. It can be done both on Earth and on a posted car.
Silent blocks
The arrow is marked by silent block
After the car was raised, you should check the silent blocks in the suspension levers. In order to determine the degree of their wear, the mount will be required, with which the lever is moving on the subframe in the longitudinal and transverse direction, you can define their backlash, and also identify rubber defects.
On Renault Logan, silent blocks are fixed on the front suspension lever, so they should be replaced on the removed item.
Spherical bearing
The diagnosis of ball support is diagnosed also exactly like silent blocks. By pushing movements (left - right), it should be influenced by the front suspension lever, and if the ball support is faulty (the backlash is present), it will not make much difficulty shifting it.
Diagnostics of anther ball
If a ball support sentenced to replacement then
Additional sources of noise
Consider additional sources of extraneous noise!
Price for Novaya steering rack on Renault Logan strongly "bite"
Check the serviceability of this element must be swinging the lever itself. When it is faulty, a small backlash will be felt.
Engine support
In order to find out the state of the engine support, it is enough to visually look at it, with a high degree of wear, will be visible.
On the left old support, on the right - the new engine support. Service life of rubber seals about 100,000 km
In order to carry out such a full, detailed inspection and find a malfunction on the front suspension Renault Logan, you may need a lot of time and effort. However, when the problem is found and solved, noises when traveling according to any, even the worst roads will no longer bother and deliver a lot of discomfort to its owner.
Remember that timely repair of even small faults, a guarantee of the durability of the entire suspension as a whole.
