The steering rail is a mechanism responsible for turning the front wheels of the car and connected to them by means. Like any other unit, the element gradually flashes during operation, which negatively affects the controllability of the machine. Since this problem is related to the safety of the driver and passengers, the owner of the car needs to distinguish signs of the malfunction of the steering rack to eliminate them as soon as possible or put a new spare part.
Briefly about the device mechanism
The element is a cylindrical housing where the following parts are placed:
- the gear rail itself, moving inside the sleeves;
- the leading shaft with a stingy gear, rotating 2 bearings (connected to the steering column);
- 2 thrust connected to the ends of the rush mechanism and swivel fists hubs;
- the system of stops and springs that limit the stroke of the racks and choosing the hollows of the gear gear;
- rubber covers (anthers) in the form of round "accordions", protecting the carcard mechanism from dirt entering;
- the housing of the element is filled with liquid lubrication.
Such is the device of the usual mechanical and so-called electric rail, acting in a pair with an electric power steering (EUR). If the car is equipped with a hydraulic amplifier (GUR), then the design of the mechanism is supplemented with cylinders and pistons that helps to move the toothed bar in one direction or another.
The element works on a simple principle: when rotating the steering wheel, the drive shaft is moving the rail through the gear in the desired direction. The ends of the parts associated with the traction are forced to rotate the front wheels. Gur or EUR reacts to the movement of the steering wheel and "pushes" the distribution mechanism in the desired side, removing the physical activity from the driver.
Signs of trouble
Since most cars are equipped with a hydraulic amplifier, the symptoms of the wear should be considered in the complex with the elements of the GUR - the pump, the distribution valve and oil highways.
Malcyal of the work of the rush mechanism is divided into obvious and hidden. To identify the first car lubber itself in the process of movement or as a result of the inspection of nodes and aggregates. In the second case, a master service station can clearly define a malfunction. Your task is to respond in time and turn to a service station when the following symptoms appear:
- A knock, distributing in the front of the car when driving around irregularities, especially in turn. The location of the sound is approximately the center where the rail is installed.
- When driving on small uhabam or bulk coating, vibration is clearly transmitted to the steering wheel.
- After passing the turn, the ram is reluctant to return to its original position or remains rotated. When trying to rapid rotation, the steering wheel is poured by weight.
- The free stroke of the Baranki increased markedly, why the car "goes" on the direct portion of the road and requires constant adjustment of the trajectory of the driver's movement.
- Gul, whistling and other outsided sounds.
- For turn, you have to apply a lot of effort on the steering wheel.
- Critical breakage - the jamming of the mechanism or spontaneous rotation of the beam without changing the direction of movement.
Note. The specifics of the rush mechanism are the central location, which is why the driver seems like a sound comes from both sides at once. Confirming sign - Vibration on the steering wheel and an increase in the backup.
If you managed to definitely find out that the steering rail is knocking, make an external inspection of the aggregate. Special attention is paid to rubber anthers - they can be seen through the arches of the front wheels and partially under the hood. The best option is a survey on the viewing ditch. Gusts and oil on the "accordion" indicate that water and dirt hit the element, accelerating the wear of all parts.
Other external signs of breakage - sweetes of lubricant on the housing of the aggregate. If you cannot immediately notice the protected gland, the oil level in the crankcase will decrease and the so-called ring wear and power cylinder will begin. Consequences - costly replacement of the node assembly.
In the presence of the power steering, you need to inspect not only the rail, but also the elements of the GUR - the pump, the belt drive and oil hoses. Take a look into the expansion tank - the reduced level will immediately make it clear that the lubricant is lost as a result of leakage. Additional confirmation - fresh stains under the car at the place of constant storage.
We wrote more about the problem.
Unlike GUR, electrical amplifiers do not file signs of malfunction and fail at once. But such cases are rare, in general, EUR is a rather reliable unit.
What to do with rack faults?
In the overwhelming majority of cases, the replacement or repair of the steering rack is made on the car service, since even the removal of the element is not easy task. But small problems can be solved on their own, for example:
- Replace the torn rubber boot. If you found this defect at an early stage, when the distribution mechanism functions properly, you can change the casing in the garage on the observation pit. Do not forget to clean the dirt from the dirt under the boot.
- Eliminate leaks of hydraulic fluid on the nozzles. To do this, you will have to empty the system and replace the hoses, it is better for everything at once.
- Put new tips of steering. Signs of wear of ball fingers are very similar to the malfunction of the steering rack - the backlash and knock arises.
- Change the broken steering shaft cross.
- Tighten either change the belt rotating the hydraulic pump pulley. Spacing belt transmission leads to a deterioration in the work of the amplifier and the difficult rotation of the steering wheel.
Reiki design provides for adjustment of gaps in the gear ratio. In the early stages of the stamps of the gears, the backlash is eliminated by pulling the adjusting screws. It is extremely undesirable to carry out the operation itself: if you stop and leave the gaps, the gear will become even faster.
When the problem lies inside the case of the roll mechanism, it does not work independently, except that you yourself are an auto mechanic. The most common the following internal malfunctions:
- development of teeth on the rail or steering shaft;
- backlash bearing;
- depressurization of the seals;
- ring wear sleeves, cylinders;
- the deformation of the shaft or the rack itself as a result of the wheels in the deep pothole and impact on the mechanism.
Part of the listed breakdowns is eliminated by installing repair kits in car service. The worn items of the toothed gear cannot be changed separately - it is necessary to put a new rail.
Almost all models of modern passenger cars are represented as a steering rack. This is a mechanical node designed to convert the steering wheel into the horizontal deviation of the front wheels. Initially, the steering rail device was not distinguished by a special complexity. In the simplest embodiment, this is a mechanism consisting of a gear located on the steering shaft, conjugate to it rake and steering.
Types and versions
Currently, there are three varieties of rush mechanisms. The difference between them is the principle of action.
Mechanical steering rack
The simplest version of the steering. Turning the wheels is carried out exclusively due to the physical force of the driver. In order to facilitate the driver's work and improve the convenience of control on many cars, a steering rail is used with a variable gear ratio. In other words, the rack's teeth pitch varies from the middle to the edges. Such a device with small angles of rotation of the steering wheel, which is characteristic of movement at high speeds, provides a large gear ratio, a heavy and sharp steering wheel. At the time of maneuvering in the parking lot, when the steering wheel has to turn "from the edge to the edge," to do it easily, thanks to a smaller gear ratio. The first domestic car, where such a design was applied was the VAZ-2110. 
Hydraulic steering rack
It differs from the mechanical fact that the mechanical impact that the driver has a steering wheel is amplified by the hydraulic agent. This allows us to simultaneously provide the sharpness and ease of steering. Such a device is most often used on modern cars. 
The GUR also contributes to improving driving safety, because the irregularities of the road are transmitted to the steering wheel not so much, and if the machine at high speed falls the front wheel in the hole, the blow has been repaled by the hydraulic agent, and the steering wheel will not break out of the hands, as will happen by car with mechanical rail. However, this medal also has a reverse side, because the deterioration of feedback leads to a decrease in the "sense of car". Compensate this disadvantage of automakers are trying due to changes in the suspension design, as well as by using an electric motor for the drive of the GUR (electrical hydraulicel).
Electric steering rack
On the principle of action is similar to the hydraulic, only the gain is made by an electric motor, which is either built into the steering column (the cheapest and more dangerous version), or placed on the steering shaft, or is integrated with the rail (the safest option is applied on high-end cars). 
An option with the placement of the electric motor in the steering column is dangerous in that in the event of its failure, the car becomes almost uncontrollable, because it is impossible to rotate the steering wheel. Unfortunately, this sometimes sinned cars of Lada Priora's first years of release - Euras did not differ on them high reliability.
Such a device has a lot of advantages:
- higher efficiency compared to the hydraulic agent;
- efficiency (the electric motor is turned on only when the steering wheel turns, while the oil in the GUR constantly circulates, to which some part of the motor power takes place;
- independence on ambient temperature;
- no need to regularly serve the device, because No need to change and fill the working fluid;
- higher reliability as a whole, due to the lack of hoses, gaskets and glands, in which to flow could appear.
Structure
The design of the mechanical steering rack is as follows. Inside the crankcase, having a kind of hollow cylinder, a protective corrugation case is placed. On the bearings in the crankcase installed a drive gear, to which the steering rail is pressed the steering. The spring is required to eliminate the gap in the "Gear Rake" pair. Rake's stroke is limited on one side by a restrictive ring, and on the other - a sleeve of the hinge of the steering thrust. This steering wheel rack is characterized by extreme simplicity and reliability.
Signs of malfunction
The serviceability of the steering is the guarantee of the safe driving of the car, so it is necessary to monitor its condition. This does not mean that before each trip you need to spend a thorough check, because the breakdown happens suddenly. There are signs of a malfunction of the steering rack, which can be judged by the need for repair.
- A knock, manifested when driving in small irregularities, decreasing when turning the steering wheel to extreme positions.
- No effort when rotating the steering wheel.
- Effort on the steering wheel disappears in the central position.
- Spontaneous rotation of the steering wheel.
- The steering wheel is not returned or well returns to the central position when the machine is output from rotation.
- The increased sensitivity of the car (it throws aside with a slight turn of the steering wheel, the angle of rotation of the wheels does not correspond to the angle of rotation of the steering wheel).
- Permanent drop in the liquid level in the hydraulic tank tank, as well as its appearance in the anthers of the steering.
If you are an experienced motorist, then you probably know what the steering rail is and why it should be constantly in working condition. But if you are a novice, you will probably make knowledge about the device of the steering rail. In the article, we consider what the types of this mechanism are, how to determine the breakdown and what will have to face in this matter.
The rug steering mechanism is the correct name of the part of the car we consider. Although the common expression of the steering rack arrived for a long time and everyone understands what it is about. This mechanism converts the rotation of the steering shaft in the movement of the left-right-right. And they, in turn, transmit force on the rotary fists of the front wheels. In other words, the steering rail is a transitional link between the driver, which turns the ram and wheels that turn. Now you know - how important the performance of this device is.
On the other hand, the rake is a rod with a piston, the case of which is a gear power cylinder. The housing is a spool, which distributes fluid flows into the first or second cylinder cavity. Depending on which side, the driver will turn the steering wheel - the side with the liquid will change, which is under pressure.
The steering rail device depends on the type of mechanism. Mechanical species is the easiest and most common. It can be installed both on the front-drive cars and on the rear-drive.
At the same time, the wheels are directly rotated due to the efforts that the driver makes. And to reduce them as much as possible - a rail can be used containing a variable pressing number.
The magnitude of the steering clearance is very important for good and correct operation of the car, and this indicator directly depends on the state of the steering rack.
Therefore, consider the device of the mechanical site. In such a mechanical mechanism, the rail cloves change their step from the center to the edges. Therefore, when driving at high speed, the steering wheel is slightly dried and his maneuverability falls. And on the road with a small speed, for example, on the parking lot, the steering wheel spins a little easier (since a smaller appendage).
The first domestic machine with such a device is "VAZ-2110". A big plus drivers considered the moment that when turned at the expense of a mechanical rail, the steering wheel automatically became in the initially level position. It was not necessary to apply efforts to return the steering wheel after turning to the starting position, it was enough to let it go.
Device hydraulic rail
How is the steering rack hydraulic type? This question can ask yourself the drivers of new cars in which the hydraulic driver is implemented. The most important difference from the mechanical species is that there is a GUR here and it gives the ease of control and its acute. 
If we consider the structure of the hydraulic mechanism with the rail, then it consists of:
- Input.
- Spool sleeves.
- Dustproof cap.
- Retaining ring.
- Sloves spool.
- Spool.
- Bearing.
- Sleeves rod.
- Tile.
- Rack rod.
- Retaining ring.
- Outlet of the thousands.
- Piston rod.
- Stem bushings.
- Cress nuts.
- Spool nuts.
- Plugs of the spool.
- The worm of the spool.
- Bypass tubes.
- Exit.
Which option of the steering rack did not stand on the car - it is important to listen to its work and identify errors that are present. It can be a knock, creaking, whistle in the steering mechanism. And each driver these sounds should alert. Even if it takes a single time, in work something is broken - contact a specialist or look at the problem yourself.
Very often, to eliminate the unpleasant sounds of the car, it is enough to lubricate all the details of the oil or to the mechanical device add liquid. This will retain the performance of the machine for many years without the use of overhaul. It is better to fix minor problems immediately than they turn into big problems. Care for your car and it will serve you long and good!
Video " How to replace the steering rack "
The record shows step by step instructions for replacing the steering rack. Watch this video and you can easily repeat all actions on your car.
Is it possible to repair the steering rack with their own hands, if the knock appeared in the steering, or will you have to spend money on the car service?
The operation of the steering mechanism is a security deposit, but unfortunately nothing is always and wear out once comes. How to check the steering rail and eliminate the malfunction yourself?
In publications on the blog, a lot has already been written about the mechanism of car management and a rail in particular. But I think it will not be superfluous to refresh knowledge.
So, performs an important task - converts the rotation of the "Baranki" in the turns of the wheels in the horizontal plane. Consider the process more details.
The simplest species of this node consists of a gear on the tree of the steering wheel and the plates with teeth. When we turn the steering wheel, the plate begins to move into one of the sides, fascinating the thrust, which, in turn, turn the wheels of the car.
This is an elementary design, and the entire mechanism in this case is driven by an exclusively physical power of the driver. Such options are very common on domestic cars.
There are more advanced designs - with hydro and electric powerful. A little more complicated simple mechanical option.
There are additional nodes that help the driver without much effort to twist "Branca".
If more precisely, the contour, according to which the oil circulates under pressure, the node with valves on the steering shaft and the dual-action piston directly associated with the rail.
When the steering wheel is rotated, the valves on a specific side are opened, and the oil rushes through open highways, making it on the piston in one or the other side, and he already moves the rail.
In embodiments, the main power element is a stepper electric motor moving steering mechanisms.
At first glance, the steering device may seem quite complicated, it is often problematic to get to it, so the question arises whether the repair of the steering rack is possible?
In fact, it is possible, and it is not necessary to scare difficulties.
Consider simple repair options on the example of domestic VAZ 2109 and 2110, machine-to-mechanical controls.
Analysis of car management problems
What symptoms say that something is wrong with this node?
Options are:
- the backlash appeared on the steering wheel;
- Baranka has become unusual;
- suspicious knocks when turning the steering wheel;
- in systems with a hydraulic agent, oil began to leak;
- the steering wheel occurs in the same position.
If something similar you noticed on your car, then it's time to think about visiting the car service or still try repairing the steering rack with your own hands.
The second option will help you save not only tools, but also time, because it is often there are queues, and even for a short time without a car I do not want anyone.
So, consider the sequences of simple independent repair of the rail on the example of popular domestic cars VAZ 2109 and VAZ 2110.
Repair steering rack do it yourself
It should be noted that the above symptoms do not mean expensive repairs with the replacement of steering nodes, it is often necessary for the prophylactic replacement of consumables.
But, unfortunately, to accurately determine the problem, you have to dig and dismantling the rail. Repair of the steering rack VAZ 2109 will look like it in this way:
- raise the front part of the car with the help of jacks, establish anti-parameters and provide other security measures;
- free access to rake;
- put the wheels directly and unscrew the bolt of the slotted connection, which is located near the pedals;
- unscrew the nuts steering;
- the node is ready to detach, although you can still try to immediately remove the thrust.
To eliminate the fault, first of all, you need to get a special repair kit that is sold in auto shops.
It can be complete, including gear and rack, or incomplete, comprising needle bearing, support sleeve, sealing gum, locking rings, anther casing, screed and other smallers.
- remove the boot, end caps and stops;
- we unscrew the threaded plugs and remove the springs, the stubborn sleeves and rings - we carefully examine everything and if we need to change;
- it will not be superfluous to check the bearing and with the slightest suspicion of the backlash, replace it;
- we inspect the drive gear;
- finally, we get the rack itself, and it is important not to forget to change the sleeves of the supporting shaft and the gum - all this is in Remkomplekt;
- the most complex patient is a needle bearing. For him, a special key is needed or, in the extreme case, a drill with a 1.5 mm drill, which we weaken the bearing end and then knock it out;
- after you have changed everything that you can, lubricate the details of the rail and collect everything as it was.
Repair of the steering rack VAZ 2110 is similar, but there are nuances. Some versions of the "dozens" are equipped with new nodes, to disassemble that there is no need to replace the bush.
It is enough to remove the corrugation, unscrew the nut under it and the rake will open into two parts - in one of them there will be convenient access to the sleeve.
It's not so difficult to carry out the repair of the steering rack with your own hands. I was glad to help with the repair of your four-wheeled friend!
P about the essence of its all rush steering mechanisms with a hydraulic cylinder is the same. However, with more detailed study, some nuances can be distinguished. For example, a notch of teeth on the rod of the steering mechanism can be straight, at an angle and with a variable teeth. The advantages and disadvantages of each of the options within this material will not be considered.
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So, the principle of operation, as we have already found out, one: the rod moves in the sleeves installed in the power steering case, and is condensed with the glands. There are also rush mechanisms with a triangular shaft, as the masters call it. True, one and almost the only of its advantages can be called only the possibility of earlier wear. In the rest, he has only disadvantages, the most significant of which is the impossibility of replacing the sleeve and the groove gland without removing the piston of the hydraulicel (we will return to this below).
The rod of the steering mechanism, regardless of performance, is pressed by a special focus, with which the gap is adjusted. The steering gear shaft is a single whole with a spool. The spool is a special overflow valve, which, depending on which direction you turn the steering wheel, redirects the flow of the working fluid into the cavity to the right or left of the piston mounted on the rod of the steering mechanism, thereby helping you in the rotation of the steering wheel. This piston moves inside the cylinder, which is part of the housing of the entire steering mechanism.
Separately, it is worth mentioning the ventilation inside the steering mechanism. The fact is that the anthers are quite tightly pressed against the steering rods and the power of the steering mechanism, and therefore, when moving the rod in one of the anthers, there can be a vacuum that, in turn, is fraught with the accelerated wear of the anther or, which is even worse, dust or Dirt outside in the case. Design solutions of this problem There are three: ventilation channels in the steering rod, ventilation channels in the steering case, connected by tube, and ventilation channels in anthers, which are also connected by the tube.
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The last approach must be recognized as the most unreliable. If the tube is squeezed or damn the boot at the connection site, the steering mechanism is immediately filled with water and mud, which will immediately lead you to where we visited to create this material.
Pumps gur.
Before switching to the nuances of operation and breakdowns, it is worth a separately mentioning one of the most expensive elements of the GUR - its pump. There are two types of pumps that differ in the type of actuator - with a drive from the crankshaft of the engine and drive from the electric motor. Today we consider the pump in the first execution.
It works quite simply: two plates in which the channels of the fence and supply of the working fluid are cut, a stator ring with an ellipsoid profile is covered, inside which the rotor rotates with blades.
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Thanks to the centrifugal strength of the blade, the rotation is shifted from their grooves, as a result of which the fluid fence occurs. Further on the surface of the stator, the blade moves inside the groove and pushes the fluid under pressure in the channel and then into the system. Adjustable pressure using a special valve.
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All this is placed in the housing, on top of which the expansion tank is installed, although it can often be mounted and separate from the pump.
What does it all start?
It all starts, as a rule, from client complaints on a knock or leakage of the working fluid. Another, less common cause of appeal to the service can be a sharply sully steering wheel and an elevated handhelter. Well, after the appeal, the algorithm of actions is quite standard.
First of all, the car goes to the lift where the diagnosis passes.
An experienced wizard without relief determines whether the rail is or still some kind. If the cause of concern is still a rail, then it is dismantled and sent to the cleaning shop and cleaning.
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In the same workshop, a sandblasting machine is installed, due to which the power steering case can be brought into an almost perfect condition.
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Why almost? Because in the perfect condition (one can say, the pristine) can lead it in the paint shop, if the customer wishes.
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Preliminary
As soon as the steering mechanism turns out to be in the hands of the master, he sets it on a special diagnostic stand.
By installing, connects the hoses to it, according to which the same working fluid flows as on the car (and which we remember,). Imitating the work of the mechanism by car, the master checks it for leaks, as well as working and maximum pressure in the system. According to the last parameters, the technical state of the spool valve is determined.
Diagnosis and repair
Now consider everything in order, from the element to the element, to then collect a complete picture of the scale of the tragedy of the repair of a simple one at first glance of the mechanism. Let's start with the visible: this is the housing of the steering mechanism and the spool.
At the very first stage, when nothing else is dismantled, the housing can only be inspecting and check for the presence of explicit defects or damage - for example, cracks. Then, when the mechanism is sent to the disassembly in order to restore and repair, carry out more detailed defects of the housing. It, in turn, can reveal scratches on the inner surface of the cylinder.
The cause of the scratches may be dust particles that have fallen through the broken or loosely seated boot. Also dust and dirt steering mechanism can dial through a torn ventilation tube connecting anthers.
The found fracture is small and in a not very responsible place of the body - maybe they will also be wound, but if the damage is more significant, then most likely you will advise you to replace the housing. Well, the scratches or corrosion on the cylinder mirror are removed by grinding.
If the housing of the spool valve is an integral part of the housing of the steering mechanism, then its inner surface is also checked.
Often, a sample (recess) is formed on the inside of the contact surface, because sealing rings on the spool still teflon. Because of this sample, the spool can be twisted and, as a result, the steering wheel will rotate with tangible jerks - or at all the effort during rotation to the right will differ from the effort when rotating to the left. This disease is treated with a boring and a sleeve: the inner surface of the cylinder is mounted to a certain diameter and presses a new part of brass with the desired inner diameter and already drilled holes for the channels.
The spool itself is hard to bring unusable, but its sealing rings can make trouble. In one of the photos, it can be seen how the ring was smelled.
Teflon rings as an element, in principle, are replaced without problems.
However, the manufacturer can be different from the manufacturer, and the spool, along with its body, can be a separate part. Moreover, a separate integrided part. In this case, only a replacement is possible.
Rake rod is one of the most informative elements of the steering mechanism in terms of determining the ailments without disassembly.
Everything is logical and simple here: if something happened to the teeth - there will be a knock or snacking, if the sleeve crashed - too, the glasses were worn out - leakage. Therefore, the first thing that the Master does, if the rack came with a complaint with a knock - delays it in the vice. Next, rotating the shaft of the lead gear with one hand, the second hand through the tool applies an effort to the stock, as if turning it.
Thus, the backlash in the gear gear is determined. In the serviceable steering mechanism of this backlash should not be. In our case, the backlash was, and on the entire course of the stem. In order to understand more precisely, what's the matter, the wizard pulled the adjusting nut of the stretch of the rod, thereby reducing the gap in the engagement. If at the same time the play is disappeared, then you can still ride. On the experimental mechanism, the backlash disappeared, but not all the go. Because of this, the Master will advise to give a rail to repair - however, the owner, of course, may refuse, deciding that at the moment it is not very critical.
Next, putting forward a rod to the extreme right position, the master checked the wear of the side sleeve. The action is pretty simple: you take one hand for the housing and apply a thumb to the stock, the second hand is trying to download this very stock, and under the attached finger it is clearly the beating. Although to be it, of course, should not. In this case, it is necessary to extract the steering rack from the housing together with the glands, bushings and send to repair.
The stem can have several defects: teeth wear, wear of the piston sealing ring, wear of the working surface of the rod or corrosion, as well as wear of the side sleeve.
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In principle, all defects can be eliminated, except for excessive wear of teeth or chipping on them. Rings and bushings are replaced, if necessary, even with pistons.
And the wear or corrosion is "aligned" with a grinding of the shaft.
At the same time, the decrease in the diameter of the shaft after grinding is not trouble, since the repairs of repair dimensions exist.
After removing the rod check and emphasis. Its contact part has a plastic sleeve, which can be worn - then the emphasis will have to be replaced. It happens that the emphasis itself breaks due to subdining and skew.
Well, now, as promised, let's talk about triangular rods. They are called so because from the end of the rod really triangular - though, only in the gear of it. The inconvenience is that one gland with a sleeve can be replaced without problems, but the second gland and the sleeve are in any way, because the gland is round.
Therefore, to perform such a simple action, you need to give a rod into the lathe: there gently cut the piston, they will replace what needs to be replaced, and also neatly put the piston in place and rolling down on the rod. As expected, according to the law of Murphy, we are triangular rod in the repaired GUR.
A couple more words in the glands: this is the consumable material, because in the production of it in excess.
It was already indicated that there are first, and sometimes the second repair sizes. This is a good news for customers, since the recovery of the shaft is still cheaper than its replacement.
Another important and interesting nuance is the interchangeability of the rods. Sometimes, if the circumstances require or an acute need arises, the masters are resorted to a small trick. For example, it happens that the rods are in large numbers only on the right-handed modification of the model is very popular with us. And if the bowl of the teeth on the rod is straight, then there are no problems with interchangeability. If slanting - writing disappeared and get ready for waste.
Another example of interchangeability is the ratings. Recall who we have the most vivid representatives of globalization. For example, Audi Q 7, Porsche Cayenne and VW Touareg - Commandments, this is known to everyone. So these models have absolutely different steering mechanisms! The difference in the notch of the rod teeth pulls a whole string of changes in the settings of electronic systems. There is a different step - it means another move, it means that another position of the power grid angle sensor, and this is an effort on the steering wheel, and the stabilization system, and so on ... The conclusion is obvious: just take and "transfer" a rack from one car to another will not work.
