Home Torkemose Location of VMT marks on VAZ cars. Instruction Installation of the piston of the first cylinder to the position of the NMT tact of compression Technical causes of increasing fuel consumption

Location of VMT marks on VAZ cars. Instruction Installation of the piston of the first cylinder to the position of the NMT tact of compression Technical causes of increasing fuel consumption

The article in which you will learn where the TMT tags are located on VAZ machines. Photos with a description and how to align their location.



1. On the engine in the car VAZ 2112 on gear pulleys distributional shafts The upper dead points ("a" protrusions) are located in parallel with the rear cap of the camshaft drive belt (potholes "B").

2. Models of cars VAZ 21083, 2110 and 2111 (universal) NMT have on toothed pulley The camshaft (tuber) and on the rear cap of the camshaft drive belt (mustache).


3. Here the photo shows the rest of the models of vases, which is on the flywheel, - you can notice the strip, and on the scale of the rear panel of the clutch crankcase (figure cut). For better visibility, the labels were removed.

4. On the gear of the pulley crankshaft All motors have a tubercle, and on the cover of the oil pump - a small cutout. These labels can be seen only if the pulley of the machine generator drive is dismantled.


5. In the VAZ 2106 engine, the labels are located on the stars of the camshaft (selected "A"), and the other on the housing of the camshaft bearings (the protrusion "B"). These marks can only be seen when shot block cylinders.

6. Also, the manufacturer at 2106 models marked on the engine housing. Long Chestochka "A" is located on the cover of the camshaft drive chain and the triangular groove "B" on the edge of the crankshaft pulley stream.

How to align the location of the VMT marks on the VAZ 2110 and 2111:

1. First you need to remove rechargeable battery Terminem "-".


2. Now it should be removed from the bottom of the car right mud protection. Unscrew 4 bolts and 1 screw on the right.

3. Next, open the hood and unscrew the 3 screws, which keep the front camshaft drive belt cover. Before unscrewed the cover, pay attention to the wiring wires, they are also attached to these bolts. Gently dismantle the protective lid of the belt.


4. Now it is necessary to align (set) TBI marks. To do this, with the key, turn over the crankshaft drive pulley pulley attachment bolt until the point on the back cover and the camshaft pulley will not coincide.

7. Install the rear suspension support power aggregate In order, reverse removal.

_Note

Pay attention to the labeling of the support. Take a new support with the same label.

Installing the piston of the first cylinder to the NMT position of the compression tact

The piston of the 1st cylinder is set to the position of the upper dead point (NTT) of the compression tact in order for the operation associated with the removal of the camshaft drive belt, the setting of the gas distribution phases is not disturbed. In case of violation of the phases of timber distribution, the engine will not work normally.

For the accurate installation of the piston of the 1st cylinder, two special devices for fixing the crankshaft and distribution shafts in a certain position are needed to the compression clock.

You will need: special devices for fixing the crankshaft and distribution shafts, the "on 10" protector, the on-line key, or the end heads "on 8", "at 13", the key "on 18".

1. Remove the decorative engine casing.

2. Disconnect the wire from the minus terminal of the battery.

3. Remove the cylinder head cover (see "Replacing the gasket of the cylinder head cover", p. 103).

4. Remove the right front wheel (See "Wheel Replacement", p. 58).

5. Remove the engine mudguards (see "Removing and installing engine mudguards", p. 99).

6. Remove the right front fenders (see "Removing and installing mudguards of wheels and sneakers", p. 267).

7. Turn on neutral transmission In the gearbox.


8. Turn the engine crankshaft for the mounting bolt of its pulley so that the hole in the crankshaft pulley does not reach the threaded hole in the gas distribution mechanism cover approximately 45 °, and the cam flaps of the 1st cylinder were directed upwards.


9. Loosen the tighten ...


10. ... and remove the plug located in the front of the cylinder block on the right.


11. Screw the fixing bolt.


12. Carefully check the crankshaft per bolt of attaching it to the pulley until the shaft stops locking the rod.

Note


This is how M10X1.5 device looks like to install the crankshaft to the NMT position of the compression tact.


13. On engines 1.8 and 2.0 l R4 DURATEC-HE

16Vscrew through a hole on the crankshaft pulley bolt MBC18 into the threaded hole of the gas distribution mechanism cover, fixing the crankshaft from turning.


14. Install the locking plate into special grooves in the back of the camshaft.

15. On the engine 1.6 l R4 16V DURATEC TI-VCT (with variable gas distribution phases)set the device so that the tags on its branches are at the top, and the label in the form of a line should be from the outlet of the exhaust camshaft, and the label in the form of a point is from the side of the intake shaft.

If the device managed to be installed without difficulty, the piston of the 1st cylinder is located in the VMT compression tact and the initial setting of the gas distribution phases corresponds to the norm. If the fixture was not possible (shifted by the gas distribution phases), remove the gas distribution mechanism drive belt, set the locking device and correctly wear the belt (see "Replacing the drive belt of the gas distribution mechanism on the engine 1.6 l R4 16V DURATEC TI-VCT", p. 86 ) Or replace the drive chain of the gas distribution mechanism (depending on the type of engine).

16. Set the removed items in the reverse order.

Removing, defecting and installation of flywheel

The flywheel is removed to replace the rear seal of the crankshaft, to replace it with damage to the gear rim and for grinding the surface for the slave clutch disc.



Look also:

The setting of timing marks to VAZ-2108, 2109 and 21099 is necessary for proper synchronization of the crankshaft and the camshaft of the engine. It depends on whether the engine will be taken at all. Since these cars establishes the same engine 4-cylinder 8-cylinder valve, then in its example and consider the entire procedure for setting timing marks.

Where are the timing labels on the VAZ?

On the 8th valve Motor. VAZ one camshaft, it is much easier to set the labels than on the two-way. We will discern everything possible methods Find the extreme position of the camshaft and crankshaft.

In the camshaft, as a rule, there is a label on the pulley, such a small risk, and on the GBC there is a squeeze, with which this label must match, or rather not even squeeze, and the protrusion on the shield, on the left side, if you look at the engine and camshaft. Sometimes these labels are not observed, about how to do in this case, it is described below.

The crankshaft is set on the label on the flywheel, on the gearbox, near the engine from above there is a hatch, covered with a rubber plug. If you remove the plug, then we will see the risks on the flywheel and the protruding rod from the engine that must match. But then there may be a problem: the fact is that if the engine disassembled and the flywheel was filmed, then the flywheel can be put in any side, that is, the label will be damn it knows where, but not in VMT. There is no guide on the flywheel, nor the eccentric, which side will put, that he will become, at least 180 degrees of expansion.

In this case, you can search the engine in front of the engine - on the pulley and the retaliatory tide on the engine pump on the engine. But it is not on all engines such, often this label is missing. How to do in situations when the labels are not detected? It begins the most interesting, in fact, the labels on this engine are not needed, you can do without them.

How to set timing tags on vaz 2108, 2109, 2199, if there are no tags?

If the timing belt is not yet removed and you just need to make sure that the timing tag is installed correctly, unscrew the ignition candle to start, so that it is easier to turn the crankshaft. Then put the car on the jack, turning the front wheel, turn on the transmission and rotate the wheel, is the easiest way to turn the crankshaft.
Looking into the candle hole, you can see in what position is the piston, and if you turn the crankshaft there and slowly turn the crankshaft, then you can easily catch the NMT, looking at the dismay.

When NMT is defined in this method, removing the valve cover and see how the camshaft is installed, how it should stand below.

If the timing belt is already removed and it is necessary to set the position of the crankshaft and camshaft, it should be started to make sure that none of the pistons are in the upper dead point. It is necessary in order for when the camshaft was turned, the valves did not rush into the piston and did not get off.

Now proceed with the installation of camshaft in the desired position. To do this, we need to remove the valve lid and watch, in which direction the cams are watching. IN this case We are not interested in all cams, but only those that are responsible for the first cylinder, as we will set the first cylinder VMT.

At the very case, we do not have a special difference, which cylinder will put a camshaft when there are no tags. But if you take it to exhibit on the first cylinder, we will put it on it, especially since it is closest.

Under valve lid. We will see the crankshaft, and there are a lot of cams on it (only 8, 2 cams per cylinder). The first two cams are our first cylinder. And we need to set the shaft in such a way that these two cams are simultaneously pressed on the valve. It will be NTC, overlapping valves. At the same time, the futtles of the fourth cylinder (two distant cams) will not be pressed on the valve, and they will look up the letter V. This is NMT. The beauty is that the camshaft itself is properly installed at the desired point under the action of the springs of the valves and does not go anywhere. Now you can install the crankshaft.

Now it is necessary to install the piston of the first or fourth cylinder in the NTT, without any difference what of which look, they move synchronously. It is better to shine a flashlight into a candle hole, the piston will be visible there. When the piston allegedly reaches the upper dead point, you need to insert something long in the candle hole, for example, scolding. While turning into a few degrees the crankshaft there and here, you can catch the NTM, the dye will get out to the maximum value. All, labels are set, you can wear the timing belt.

The timing belt is put on first to the crankshaft, then on camshaft, pulls the side as right as possible with the right side, and on the left side it is tensioning the tensioner roller.

And stars of camshaft intake and exhaust valves Engine

The piston of the 1st cylinder is set to the NMT position (the upper dead point) of the compression tact in order that when carrying out work associated with the removal of the drive belt of the gas distribution mechanism, the installation of gas distribution phases is not disturbed. In case of violation of the phases of timber distribution, the engine will not work normally.

Set the VTM by a label on the gear of the camshaft pulley (when installed on the labels on the crankshaft pulley in this position, the piston may be piston or the 1st or 4th cylinder). After that, be sure to match the labels on the crankshaft pulley. If the labels on the crankshaft pulley do not coincide, it means that the installation of the phases of the gas distribution is broken (the piston of the 1st cylinder is not installed in the NWT). In this case, it is necessary to remove the drive belt of the gas distribution mechanism and rotate the crankshaft before combining the labels.

4.6. Tags for the correct installation of the mutual angular arrangement of the camshaft of the exhaust valve valves and the crankshaft of the mod engine. G4ES: 1 - gear pulley of the camshaft of the exhaust valve camshaft; 2 - bolt; 3 - intermediate roller; 4 - the drive belt of the gas distribution mechanism; 5 - label on the front cover of the cylinder block; 6 - label on the crankshaft pulley; 7 - gear pulley of the crankshaft engine; 8 - tensioning roller bolt; 9 - Pretty roller space; 10 - Tension Roller Spring; eleven - tension roller; 12 - label on the gear pulley; 13 - label on the distribution shaft support

When installing the piston of the 1st cylinder of the mod engine. G4ez to the NMT position of the compression clock tag 6 (Fig. 4.6) on the crankshaft pulley should match the label 5 on the front cover of the cylinder block, and the tank 12 on the pulley of the exhaust valve camshaft must match the label 13 on the camshaft support.

For proper installation The piston of the 1st cylinder to the NMT position of the tact of compression tag on the drive asterisks 1 and 2 (Fig. 4.7) of the camshaft should be directed in opposite sides in the horizontal plane.

Engine mod. G4EV When installing a piston of the 1st cylinder to the NMT position of the compression tact, the label 2 on the crankshaft pulley should coincide with the label 1 on the oil pump housing ...

... And the label 2 on the plugging of the camshaft should coincide with the label 1 on the platform of the camshaft.

You will need: head head "on 22", gorotok, key "on 10".

4. ... and on the side of the air conditioner compressor ...

5. ... Remove the bolt and remove the bracket shods of the wiring of the detonation sensor.

Renault Megane 2. Increased fuel consumption

Scroll possible faults Diagnostics Elimination methods
Burning a shift element air filter Check the condition of the replaceable element of the air filter Flow or replace the replaceable air filter element
Unegredity of the system Smell of gasoline, fuel flow Check the tightness of the compounds of the fuel system elements; When a malfunction is detected, replace the corresponding nodes
Faulty spark plugs: current leakage on cracks in an insulator or by car on a thermal cone, poor contact of the central electrode Candles are checked on a special stand on a hundred. The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on the twisted candle does not allow to conclude its performance Replace the candles
Driving malfunction throttle valve Check the stroke of the gas pedal, the gap in the drive ( free move Pedals), make sure that the cable and pedals are missing Replace faulty parts, lubricate with engine oil
Faulty regulator idle move Or his chain Replace the controller knowingly
The throttle is not completely closed The slope is visible to the gap between the throttle valve and the walls of the case Replace throttle knot
Increased pressure in the fuel line due to the malfunction of the pressure regulator Check the pressure gauge in the fuel system (no more than 3.5 bar) Replace faulty regulator
Leakage of nozzles Check the nozzle Replace faulty nozzles
Faulty coolant temperature sensor or its chain Check the sensor resistance to the ommeter at different temperatures. Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor
Faulty oxygen concentration sensor Assess the efficiency of the oxygen concentration sensor and the reliability of its electrical caps is possible using diagnostic equipment on one hundred Restore damaged electrocups, replace faulty sensor
Faulty ECU or his chain To check, replace the ECU obviously good Replace faulty ECU, restore damaged electrocups
Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11.0 bar): the gaps in the drive, wear or damage to the valves, their guide sleeves and saddles, location or breakdown of piston rings are not adjusted Check compression Adjust the gaps in the valve drive. Replace faulty details
Fortified throttle position sensor, sensors absolute pressure and air temperature in the inlet pipe or their chains Check sensors and their chains Restore contact in electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor (sensors)
Increased resistance to the movement of gases in the exhaust gas production system Inspect the exhaust gas output system for rummed and damaged pipes, check the condition of the catalytic neutralizer Replace damaged elements of the exhaust gas release system
Faults of the chassis and brake system Check the chassis and brake system Adjust wheel installation angles, replace faulty chassis parts, troubleshoot the brake system

Causes of big fuel consumption

There are several typical errors that allow inexperienced drivers leading to fuel consumption. Remember that the extra volume of gasoline or diesel fuel will be spent at:

Air conditioning or climate control system. The functioning of these devices is associated with the operation of the compressor. After all, the pump is needed to rotate the pump pullee, which is taken from the spinless crankshaft. And it requires an additional fuel.
The operation of the heating system. This applies not only to the work of "stoves", but also heating seats, glasses and mirrors (in machines where these options are provided). Logic here is similar to the situation described above.
Sharp overclocks. If you like to dramatically touch the traffic lights or elsewhere, then be prepared for your car to spend more fuel than usual. This is due to the fact that any transition process (in this case, bringing the car in motion) is associated with increased energy consumption. And than he is sharper, the more energy you need. Therefore, try to trim smoothly. So you will not only save fuel, but also save the tires, grip and nodes of the power unit.
Engine operation at high revs. Try not to fatherize. This will not only save fuel for your car, but also will be favorable at the engine work as a whole.
Use of low-quality fuel. Try to refuel on the proven gas stations, and pour the fuel brand to the tank, which is recommended by the automaker. You will burn bad fuel worse, gives an insufficient amount of energy and requires additional costs.

Technical reasons for increasing fuel consumption

To begin with, let's deal with technical problemswhich contribute to the increase in the consumption of gasoline in the car. We find out the most common causes associated with the engine and other elements due to which the flow rate increases.

Engine wear

It usually occurs due to the large mileage of the car or when its incorrect operation. Some moments related to engine operation:

The temperature of the coolant (coolant) is lower than calculated;
- with a cylindrophone group;
- with a crank-connecting mechanism;
-Inutrition mechanism of gas distribution and non-regulated valve gaps.

Clutch wear

When the driver needs to keep high revs In order to travel from the place and switch to increased gear - this directly affects fuel consumption. It will help in this case the clutch replacement.

One of the reasons increased flow Fuel is the wear of the clutch disk. The situation is quite simple here. In the process of touching the motor consumes more fuel than with constant revs. This fact is present even with a good clutch. If the disk or other parts of the system are faulty, it turns out that the fuel is consumed, and the car stands still. The more often the car rises from the spot, the greater the overrun of the fuel takes place.

In critical cases, such a situation may occur even when driving in constant mode. That is, when the clutch disc does not provide synchronous rotation of the engine and gearbox. This situation, though rare, can happen in the most "running" cases.

Diagnose clutch wear is simple enough. To do this, put the car on hand brake, Include the fifth or fourth gear (depending on the gearbox, that is, the highest) and try to trigger. If at the same time you do not stuck with gas - this means that the grip must be repaired or change completely.

The ignition is incorrectly configured

Incorrect ignition is also the cause of increased fuel consumption. In particular, if the engine "Troit", then gasoline from the non-working cylinder is ejected directly to exhaust system. This leads not only to the overruns of fuel, but also to increased wear of the catalyst.

If the ignition is simply appointed incorrectly, the situation occurs when the fuel is not completely combustible. That is, the spark occurs before the fuel mixture appears in the cylinder in full, or after. In any case, this leads to its incomplete combustion. And this automatically means that the fuel is being consumed.

Therefore, always follow the state of the ignition system. The amount of consumable fuel directly depends on this. In addition, an incorrectly configured ignition system can cause problems when starting the engine.

Wear tires

If the tires are rather worn or the pressure in them is less than the norm, it will also lead to the fact that the car will begin to "eat" more than "eating". In such a situation, it is necessary to replace the tires, and regularly check tire pressure.
Low profile tires with a wide protector create increased resistance, and accordingly, increased fuel consumption.

Brake system malfunctions
They are different, consider those that lead to an incomplete solution of calipers when the so-called "subcinition" occurs. If the caliper is not completely cleaned, then with time, not only becomes unsuitable brake pads, but also discs. Due to excessive friction and resistance force, fuel consumption naturally increases.

Introduction Candles

Through unsuitable candles, the car works incorrectly, as a result - an additional load on the engine. This leads not only to what appears big flow Fuel, but also to a general deterioration of work. To avoid, you need to check the candles.
Such an inspection includes an inspection of the color of the nagar, the electrode clearance measurement, check the resistor on the breakdown. Also, it is worth paying attention to the place of the adjoining of a white insulator to the threaded part of the candle - the red flask is unacceptable.

Scored nozzles or carburetor

The slaughtered nozzles are one of the most common causes of fuel recalculation. They are clogged as a result of natural reasons. Such is the use of poor-quality gasoline, not timely replacement fuel filterhitting dirt in podcast space etc.

With the nozzles clogged, a violation of the form of sputtering of fuel in the combustion chamber occurs. Because of this, the formation of the fuel mixture is disturbed. That is, for this process, a larger amount of gasoline is used than necessary under normal conditions.

In some cases, due to clogging, the engine can start troitting. This is expressed in reducing the dynamic characteristics of the car. It is also possible to learn the engine at elevated circulation, even in idle mode. It leads to an increase in fuel consumption.

Similar arguments are valid for cars with a carburetor engine. When clogged, the carburetor arises the same situation with gasoline overrun and falling dynamic characteristics.

So always watch out fuel system, in particular, nozzles on injector Engine and carburetor on the carburetor. Their clogging is the direct cause of fuel recalculation.

Low-foam fuel is also great effect on the expense (for low price And bad quality has to quantify).

Lambda Probe or DMRV breakdown

Significant fuel consumption can also be caused by the failure of the oxygen sensor (lambda probe). His task is to control the amount of oxygen, which is part of fuel mixes. Therefore, if this sensor is faulty, the mixture will be created incorrectly, and this will result in fuel consumption.

Lambda probe is quite fragile. There are a number of reasons for which it may fail. Among them:

Depressurization of its housing and penetration inside it exhaust gases;
-The surveillance of the sensor (this may be caused by the incorrect operation of the ignition system);
-theless aging and wear;
-The closers with the car power grid;
-Maehanic damage to the sensor.
Similar arguments are valid and relative to the air flow sensor (DMRV). It is intended to regulate the air supply level into the engine cylinders. Sensor malfunctions to identify easy. As a rule, while the engine begins to work unstable, especially at idle (very high or low "jumping" turns), the loss of dynamic characteristics (the car is poorly accelerated). Sensor mass flow The air is not subject to repair. It can only be replaced, although its cleaning can temporarily correct the situation.

Crashing air filter

Recommended replacement frequency - every 15,000 km of mileage. Requires a timely replacement of the air filter, because if he is scored and you ignored it, then be prepared for the fact that the car appears a good appetite.

The consumption also affects the use of air filtering elements with heavy or-made predominates, since, as in the case of a scored filter, the air resistance increases. Filter elements of light type are recommended to resist the air flow to be minimal.

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