Currently, manufacturers are trying to make the car as comfortable as possible for a person. To do this, they fill it with convenient and useful functions: a heater, seat heating, electric glass lifting drives, air conditioning, cruise control, etc.
But the most interesting thing is that the principle of operation of all these systems is based on the most elementary mechanisms. There are no innovations. As an example, you can take the interior heater or, as the drivers call it, the stove. It has been installed in cars since the middle of the last century. Then she was a motor that drove warm air into the pipes and pushed it out - into the salon.
A little later, fans began to be made in plastic cases, more power and smaller in order to reduce dimensions with weight and increase performance. To this day, nothing has changed, only now digital sensors have appeared in the heating, as well as an improved travel system that allows you to blow different compartments of the cabin.
An example of a stove motor
Thanks to innovations, the device can independently maintain the desired temperature in the car and heat it efficiently. But everything is still powered by that very motor. It is the heart that, if it fails, will destroy the entire system. This happens quite often even in imported cars. The main rubbing elements wear out, and the fan begins to hum, creak or even jam. To prevent this from happening, it is advisable to sometimes service the stove motor and know how to lubricate it.
There are now two main types of stoves. They are classified according to the principle of operation:
- Stationary. This is the most common system that is installed on every car without fail. It is powered by the engine, that is, from its cooling system. Antifreeze, heated by the engine, goes through the pipes to the heater radiator - to the salon. Here a motor is installed, which either blows or sucks in air from the heating element (radiator). It is pumped into the branch pipes, which are diverted to the frontal and side windows as well as at the feet of passengers. When the fan is on, hot air constantly flows through the pipe system and heats the entire interior;
- Autonomous. Another type of heaters, which is a serious competitor to a stationary device. The above system is effective only when the engine warms up, or rather antifreeze in the cooling system. Otherwise it will blow cold air... The autonomous option in this moment has a great advantage, since it allows you to heat the interior of even a muffled car. The stove itself is an installation that consumes some kind of fuel and heats air, antifreeze or oil in a special chamber. A motor is installed behind it, forcing cold air into a hot place. From it, it comes out already in a hot stream through the nozzle. This configuration allows operation independent of the motor.
Simplified diagram of the car heating system device
It should be noted that the latter is an additional function and can be installed both by the factory and by the car owner. It is very good if these two systems are combined.
Also at least important parameter is the savings. In a stationary system, it is observed in the resource of the motor. That is, there is an additional branch pipe in the device, which is brought out to the outside of the car in the form of an air intake. At high speed, it captures the air flow that goes to the heater radiator. Thus, the design allows the electric motor to be switched off during intensive driving and to be heated with one boost.
In an autonomous system, the fan runs constantly, but the savings here are different. The main element in the heating is heated from the burnt fuel, the supply of which is controlled by special sensors. When the temperature reaches a certain value, the portion of diesel fuel, gasoline or gas decreases. The device consumes less resource and gives more heat.
Which of these systems is better is difficult to judge. On the one hand, the heat transfer of the engine is used and thus its efficiency is increased, and on the other hand, an independent system is introduced into the car, capable of working even with a muffled engine - autonomously. We'll talk about the first type.
The electric motor, like other devices, has its own resource. If the car is old, then these things often get into trouble. They manifest themselves in noisy operation or squealing due to lack of lubricant. The motor itself consists of a fixed part with magnets (stator) and a moving part with windings (rotor). The latter is installed in the body on bronze bushings. So, if this place dries up, then a creak and an unpleasant sound appear.
Bronze bushing
In general, in the manufacture of such bushings, graphite is added to bronze, which serves as a solid lubricant. That is, in principle, they should work without auxiliary materials. However, if moisture or dust gets into the rubbing pair, then problems are guaranteed. Because of them, the bronze oxidizes and dries up, but after a couple of minutes of running the motor, everything is rubbed again. Therefore, the screeching disappears quickly. The reason for its appearance is also the poor-quality material from which the rotor shaft and bushings are made. They can simply permanently rot or oxidize if they were not coated with anti-corrosion stainless components during manufacture.
Bronze bushings
Many factories provide for such a development of circumstances, therefore, the sleeve and shaft are equipped with compulsory system lubricants. This simple fixture minimizes wear on the pair. It represents special material with high absorbency, which is fixed close to the seat of the sleeve. Most often it is a felt ring. It must be periodically impregnated with grease (ordinary oil), which will get on the rubbing parts and reduce friction. If such a felt is installed on your car stove motor, watch it carefully. When noise is heard during operation, most likely the grease in the felt has dried out. Soak it with oil and operate the fan again.
Felt ring
The situation with felt is clear, but what to do if poor quality electric motor? This manifests itself in permanent rust on the fan shaft, due to the fact that the necessary components were not added to the steel during smelting, or the bronze bushings do not contain graphite. In this case, the steam can overheat at the place of friction and jam. Then there is still a risk of fire, which is possible in the event of an overload short circuit.
Such motors will have to be serviced much more often, because grease them only with thick grease (better than graphite). And she, as you know, does not last long.
It is better to lubricate unreliable furnace motors with graphite grease.
Lubrication of the defective stove motor
Although there is another option that many car owners use. You can make a felt ring yourself and rivet it to the motor body, and then saturate it with oil. It will not differ in any way from factory production and will last a long time. That is, you can also ride with a defective fan, but you have to boggle your head a little. Not everyone will be able to properly lubricate or finish the stove so as not to damage other systems in the vicinity. The best thing, of course, is to simply replace the fan with a new one and forget about the problems.
It is also worth noting that roller or ball bearings can be installed instead of bronze bushings. In this case, you can completely forget about their lubrication, since they all come from the factory for electric motors closed. That is, they are already filled with the required amount of lubricant.
Before lubricating, you must first get to the fan. Most often, it is installed in the passenger compartment of the car, under the main panel. Less often, it can be found under the hood (in this case, it will not be difficult to remove it). To dismantle the motor in the passenger compartment, it is necessary to partially disassemble the panel. But before that, it is better to remove the terminals from the battery, since there is a risk of shorting the wiring. The trim in each car is removed differently, so the recommendations will not help here. Most often, it is attached either with latches or with screws.
When you get to the motor, do not rush to take it off. Disconnect all adjoining wiring first (to gearbox and pneumatic valve). If you are going to dismantle the heater radiator as well, then you need drain antifreeze from the cooling system... To do this, unscrew the tap on the main radiator and find a clean container. But all the antifreeze will still not be able to be decanted. Some of it will remain in the pipes, so be careful when disconnecting.
Car stove motor with removed plastic cover
The motor itself is usually attached with two or three bolts, and can also be in a plastic case, which must also be unscrewed. To lubricate it, you must first disassemble and assess the internal state. You can't rush in this moment! All parts should be detached easily, without effort. If something does not work out, it means either it is not completely unscrewed, or it just stuck. Enthusiasm is misplaced here.
How to lubricate the stove motor
At the fan, the propeller must be removed, and the top cover must be unscrewed, into which the bronze bushing will be pressed. The second is located in the body (glass) itself. Before lubricating, assess their condition for backlash or depletion. If the rotor dangles in them, then it is better to immediately buy new ones and replace them. Well, if everything is in order, then it remains to wet the felt ring with oil (for example, engine oil) or coat everything with grease and assemble it correctly.
The most common in all industries component equipment - electric motor. Grease for electric motor bearings- in this article we will try to help you figure out how to choose a lubricant for an electric motor, what to look for, how and how to lubricate an electric motor in order to extend its service life.
Maintenance of electric motors is one of the mandatory items in the list of official duties of mechanical services, one of the components of such maintenance is the lubrication of the bearings.
Despite the fact that the service life of a bearing is made up of many factors, ranging from the quality of the bearing itself, the correctness of its correct installation and the presence or absence of environmental factors, its service life can be radically increased provided timely and correct lubrication.
Correctly selected lubricant, depending on the type of electric motor, its operating conditions, will allow you to ensure reliable and long-term operation. Incorrectly selected grease at the same time threatens the least increased consumption and an increase in maintenance costs, in the worst case, it will cause increased wear, and in the future, destruction of the bearing. This is especially applicable to bearings operated in difficult conditions- at high temperatures, speeds and loads.
The use of lubricants reduces friction on the surface of the roller separator, dampens the shock load of the rolling elements on the cage and, accordingly, reduces the noise during the operation of the mechanism. Also, the use of lubricants contributes to the uniform distribution of heat from the friction surfaces, they are a kind of buffer that protects the bearing from mechanical contamination (the higher the accuracy of the assembly and the higher the speed of its rotation, the more weight this factor), and also protects the metal surface from corrosion.
For the bearing to function properly, it is necessary to follow the recommendations on the application and the norms for placing greases, adding excess grease to the bearing is not only uneconomical, but also leads to the fact that the grease removes heat worse and can increase the temperature of the bearing. Research has shown that raising the bearing temperature by 10 degrees will reduce bearing life by 20%.
For the lubrication of electric motors, greases on various thickeners, for example, lubricants based on calcium soap - the simplest representative of this class of lubricants is ordinary grease, however, greases no longer meet the requirements for modern lubricants and cannot ensure reliable operation of the electric motor.
Another representative of calcium greases is a grease developed during the Soviet era - CIATIM-221.
CIATIM-221 is a grease based on synthetic polysiloxane fluid 132-24 thickened with calcium soap, the grease is specially designed for use in electric motors with a rotation speed of up to 10,000 rpm.
Lithium greases - Due to the structure of the thickener, lithium soap greases are used over a wide temperature range.
We have developed a grease based on Roxol MS lithium soap with the addition of molybdenum disulfide - for use in electric motors at speeds up to 5000 rpm at medium and high loads. Due to the content of molybdenum disulfide, the grease has high antiwear properties.
ROXOL MS grease can be used to replace more expensive VNIINP-242 and Molykote FB-180 greases in the temperature range from -30 to +140 degrees.
Polyurea Lubricants - Unique Lubricants in terms of their mechanical and chemical stability, as well as temperature resistance.
How to lubricate the oil seal / motor bushing (sliding)?
Due to the nature of the thickener, greases are classified as ashless, i.e. do not leave carbon deposits, form superstable rheological systems (the lubricant quickly restores the structure after mechanical action, perfectly resists the increase in load, due to which its service life is longer than lubricants based on soap thickeners).
To meet the needs of the domestic consumer, Roxol has developed a polyurea grease with a tetraurea thickener Roxol PU EP... The grease can be used to replace SKF, MOBIL and SHELL greases and other imported polyurea thickened greases. Ideal for heavy duty high speed applications, lasts up to 10 times longer than lithium greases. At low temperatures(below minus 30 degrees) we recommend using lubricants based on synthetic oils- for example, Roxol PU SYNT grease - operating in a wide temperature range and having excellent antifriction properties.
The choice of lubricant for an electric motor should be made taking into account a number of factors:
- Engine operating mode - rotation speed, load on the shaft, duration of the operating cycle.
- Working environment conditions - air humidity, temperature, presence of aggressive factors (chemicals, steam, dust, etc.)
- The design and dimensions of the unit.
The bearing rotation speed requires special attention the higher the speed, the lower the viscosity should be base oil on the basis of which the lubricant is made.
The load on the shaft will indicate if a grease with an increased load capacity (with EP additives) is needed
Long-term trouble-free operation - makes demands on the mechanical stability of the lubricant.
At a bearing operating temperature of 130 degrees and above, heat-resistant greases should be preferred, with a dropping point of 190 degrees and above.
Thus, the lubricant must maintain consistency within the operating temperature range, have high mechanical stability, not cause a self-heating effect (i.e., the viscosity of its base oil must correspond to the speed of operation), and be resistant to oxidation.
Consistent high temperature grease based mineral oil with a polyurea thickener ROXOL PU EP was developed by us for use in electric motors of heavy off-road vehicles, electric motors of pumps and fans instead of lubricants such as SKF, MOBIL XHP, SHELL GADUS, wheel bearings can also be lubricated with it.
Exhaust Fan Cleaning - Extending Exhaust Fan Life
Installing a fan in the bathroom is very good idea... Thanks to him, you can ventilate the room in a matter of minutes. Thanks to the fan installed in the exhaust duct, the draft of the hood itself is increased, which is useful when the humidity in the bathroom rises or after a smoke break.
However, over time, especially if people smoke in the bathroom or toilet, the exhaust fan becomes very dirty. As a result, cravings are weakened. In addition, over time, the lubrication in the motor bearings runs out and the fan starts to work poorly, and may even burn out. Therefore, from time to time he should do prophylaxis.
If your fan starts to creak and change the speed due to jamming, do not rush to throw it away, it can still extend its service life. First, remove the fan. It is usually mounted on four self-tapping screws. It is connected to the power supply using a conventional two-wire terminal. It is convenient to connect the fan to a switch so that you can turn it on and off as needed.
And so the fan is very dirty, the engine wedges and overheats, so it needs to be lubricated and cleaned.
Fig. 1. Disassembly of the fan begins with the removal of the impeller. It is fixed to the motor shaft by means of a collet clamp with a tapered thread; the nut must be unscrewed clockwise.
Fig. 2. After the nut is unscrewed, the fan impeller can be easily removed from the shaft.
Fig. 3. Turn the fan to the front and disconnect the motor wires from the terminals. Otherwise, it will not be possible to remove the engine.
And we remove the engine, it is mounted on two screws.
Fig. 4. The motor is fixed in the fan casing with two screws. To remove the engine, they must be unscrewed. When removing the engine, it must be supported. Wear gloves when disassembling a fan that has just been in operation. the engine is hot. Alternatively, cool the engine before disassembling.
Here is the fan motor itself.
Fig. 5. To lubricate the fan, apply a few drops of oil to the front bearing and rear bearing. It is convenient to use a medical syringe with a needle. It is necessary to drip oil into the place where the shaft enters the engine housing on one side and on the other.
Let it cool down. Then we clean it with a brush and grease it. It takes literally two drops to lubricate the fan. engine oil, it is not worth pouring a lot. One drop is needed for the front bearing, the second for the rear. Next, we rotate the rotor (shaft) of the engine by hand so that the lubricant is distributed. It is immediately felt that it has become much better to rotate. Now the engine will not wedge and overheat.
Fig. 6. Everything plastic parts washed with water using detergents.
All parts must be well dried before assembly.
Now we assemble its fan and install it in place.
Fig. 7. Fan assembly is carried out in reverse order.
Electric motor bearing greases
First, the motor is installed, then the clem is connected, after which the impeller is attached. The assembled fan is installed in place and connected to the power supply.
We've seen how easy it is to bring an old fan back to life. In most cases, fan failure is due to contamination and lack of lubrication in the motor bearings. By cleaning and lubricating the motor, you can regularly extend the life of the fan. All the work takes no more than 10-15 minutes, and saves time and money that could be spent on a new fan for the bathroom or kitchen.
Lubricant for kitchen hood motor bearings.
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The motor on sleeve bearings (which is built into the hood) has worked for 4 years and its rotor does not slip anymore. I smeared it with "synthetics" - it started to work, but it lasts for half a month maximum, then the same thing again.
Perhaps you need some special lubricant?
If the electric motor of the kitchen hood has closed-type bearings and it does not slip or works with noise, then the lubricant must be changed.
How to lubricate the kitchen hood motors so that they do not squeal (grease, oil and lithol do not help for long)?
It is necessary to disassemble the bearing, wash it in gasoline or diesel fuel, assemble the engine and add spindle oil. If the bearing is open, grease can be used for lubrication after flushing.
The author of the question mentioned that there are plain bearings in his kitchen hood. These bearings need to be cleaned and washed just as much as rolling bearings. In general, the entire motor and fan must be cleaned. I use silicone oil to lubricate the hood motor.
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§ 4. Stamps for drawing. Clamping force when drawing cylindrical products. Draw folds. Draw Lubrication.
Exhaust dies used for the manufacture of products of various shapes. As a result of drawing, for example, a cylindrical product with a bottom can be obtained from a round flat circle of material (Fig. 126, a, b). When stretching, the mass and volume of the material do not change, but only the shape of the workpiece changes. After drawing, the product has different wall thicknesses. In places of transition from the bottom to the walls, the material becomes thinner.
Rice. 126. Exhaust dies:
a - for the first operation, b - for the second operation
To avoid the formation of folds during drawing on presses of simple (single) action, clamps are used - buffers built into the dies, or pneumatic cushions. Presses are used for deep drawing double acting, which have an outer slider for pressing the material and a pillow for pushing the product.
The clamping force depends on the specific pressure, mechanical properties extruded material and radius of curvature of the extruded edge of the matrix.
The clamping force when drawing cylindrical products with a bottom for the first operation is determined by the formula Q = (π / 4 * q, where D is the diameter of the workpiece, mm; d 1 is the diameter of the hood, mm; r is the radius of curvature of the exhaust edge, mm; q - specific pressure for mild steel and brass, Pa (kgf / mm 2).
If a spring or a rubber buffer is used as a clamp, then at the initial moment the minimum pressure should be ensured, since with an increase in the drawing depth, the pressure increases. When using a pneumatic cushion, the pressing force is almost constant, which contributes to an increase in the quality of the hood. Deep hood products are made in two or more operations.
The designs of the drawing dies depend on the shape of the product and the number of the drawing operation performed, the ratio of the dimensions of the product to the workpiece. The ratio of the diameter of the product to the diameter of the workpiece is called the coefficient of elongation, which is determined by the formulas m 1 = d 1 / D - for the first operation; m 2 = d 2 / d 1 - for the second operation.
Elongation factors and correction factors are given in chap. I.
Knowing the coefficient of elongation, the size of the product for operations is determined by the formulas d 1 = m 1 D - for the first operation; d 2 = m 2 d 1 - for the second operation.
The elongation ratio is influenced by the radius of rounding of the die and the punch. The radius of curvature, depending on the thickness of the material, should be: for mild steel -10S, for brass - 5S, for aluminum - 7S.
Tightening ribs are installed on the die matrix for drawing rectangular and square products, which increase the reliability of the clamp. Excess metal in the workpiece is present at the rounded corners where the workpiece is clamped.
Draw folds are caused by large gap between punch and die and insufficient clamping force. When the gap is small, the bottom of the product may be torn off. The established gaps between the die and the punch for drawing dies are for mild steel (1.2 -: - 1.4) S, brass and aluminum (1.1 -: - 1.2) S in the first operation. For subsequent operations, respectively (1,1 -: - 1,2) S.
In fig. 126 shows two different (inconsistent) dies: for the first (a) and second (b) drawing operations.
The dies are designed for double action presses. Punch 1 is fixed on the inner slider of the press, and clamp 4 - to the outer slider. The workpiece is placed on the die 2. After turning on the press, first the clamp 4 is lowered, and then the punch 1. During the drawing, the clamp 4 remains stationary. The pusher 5, exerting counterpressure under the action of the pneumatic cushion, moves together with the punch 1. After drawing, the punch 1 rises first, and the clamp 4, remaining motionless, removes the product from the punch. Only after the release of the clamp, the product is pushed out of the matrix by the pusher 3.
The clamp for the second operation (see Fig. 126, b) has a different design: when lowering it enters the interior of the hollow product, which is drawn to a smaller diameter. With this design, folding is eliminated, thinning at the bottom of the product, as well as the pulling force, is reduced.
Draw Lubrication increases the durability of dies, reduces the coefficient of friction and the magnitude of the pulling force. Lubricant must have wettability, i.e. adhere to lubricated surfaces; preserve their properties during operation and storage; do not cause corrosion (rust) of stamped products and the press; be harmless to humans; easy to apply on the surface of stamped products and easy to remove from them.
For deep drawing, a mixture of spindle oil, grease and talc is used. At a shallow depth of drawing, as well as when drawing spherical products, a soap solution, an emulsion, etc. are used.
Grease composition (%) for deep drawing: spindle oil 40, solid oil 20, talc 11, sulfur 8, alcohol 1 (sulfur is introduced in the form of crushed powder).
Grease composition for shallow (light) drawing: green soap 20, water 80.
At the Gorky Automobile Plant, for example, for complex drawing, a lubricant of the following composition is used,%: spindle oil 52, mylonft 20, talc 18, gypsum 2.5, wood flour 5.5.
For heavy stampings(chalk grease,%): spindle oil 33; sulfided castor oil 1.5; fish oil 1.2; chalk 45; oleic acid 5.5; caustic soda 0.7; water 13. Soluble lubricant: liquid emulsion 37; chalk 45; soda ash 1.3; water 16.7.
Lubrication when drawing with thinning and cold extrusion of steel: copper sulfate - 4.5-5 kg; table salt - 5 kg; sulfuric acid - 7-8 liters; wood glue - 200 g; water - 80-100 liters.
Note... The glue is preliminarily dissolved in hot water, after which the remaining components are dissolved. Copper-plated blanks are stored in a hot soapy solution, from which they are fed to the hood.
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The fans turn on frequently and run for a long time, and are almost never serviced. This is not from a lack of time or negligence of the owner, but from the fact that this mechanism is so firmly embedded in daily life, which is no longer noticed, and few people think about how and with what to lubricate the floor fan. But, like all mechanisms, the fan can break down at the most inopportune moment. This can only be prevented by timely care.
Indoor Floor Fan Lubrication
The vast majority of floor-standing models are arranged in the same way: the impeller blades rotate asynchronous motor with a gearbox. All movable rubbing parts are in the engine, and it is in it that grease must be poured. Engine parts should be lubricated at least once a year.
How do you know when it's time to lubricate the floor fan?
Very simple:
- When you press the start button, the screw of an unlubricated device may simply not move.
- The screw only moves by hand.
- The propeller picks up speed very slowly.
All this indicates that the oil has completely left the rotation units and the frictional force does not allow the motor to work normally.
Lubrication of rotating parts of an induction motor
Before lubricating, remove all attachments and reach the engine. The engine must be disconnected from the mains. Removing the protective cover and disassembling the plastic case, the engine will open. Before lubrication, the engine is cleaned of contamination.
Work order:
- After removing the plastic cover and protective mesh, access to the motor is opened. The motor is disconnected from the slewing gear and wires.
- During operation, various debris and dust are wound on the shaft. It must be cleaned of contamination, but it is not necessary to disassemble it. It will be enough to pop 2-3 times
Household floor fan
- WD-40 onto the base of the shaft (where the bearing is) and twist the shaft a little with your fingers. The mixture will penetrate deeper into the bearing and wash away any dirt.
- After cleaning the shaft, wipe the shaft and drip a couple of drops of liquid sewing machine oil onto the bearing. I-20 oil is well suited for lubrication.
- The swivel mechanism is also cleared of dirt. A thick grease such as grease is applied to the gears, and oil is dripped onto the bushings.
- After all operations, you need to leave the motor parts until all the excess drains from them. At the end, the parts are wiped dry and the fan is assembled in reverse order.
Some lubricants can corrode plastic, this will break the device and have to be carried for repair or thrown away. Before applying, you need to read the instructions
Induction motor bearing lubrication
Non-separable fan lubrication
Non-removable fans are most often found inside the computer system unit or laptop case. They are mounted on video cards and coolers, on which thermal paste is applied. It is called non-separable because the stator and primary windings are tightly sealed in a plastic casing, which is screwed to the cooling radiator. Unlubricated and clogged motors begin to make a lot of noise and annoy the owner of the computer.
To lubricate a non-separable motor, you need to get access to the bearing. In some models, it is covered with a sticker, while in others it is tightly sealed with plastic.
How to lubricate a non-separable fan with a sticker
- Draw some machine oil into a syringe with a fine needle.
- Carefully peel off the sticker that covers the bearing.
- Put 5-6 drops of oil into the opened bearing. If the bearing is protected by a rubber gland, then it is not necessary to remove it - you can pierce it with a needle and inject oil.
How to lubricate a non-separable fan sealed with plastic
- Take a small drill with a centering tip (2-3 mm)
- Carefully make a hole on the bearing side, it is better not to use a power tool and drill by hand.
- Pour a few drops of oil with a syringe.
- Replace decal or cover with cold welding.
Bearing lubrication of a sealed motor
When drilling, small plastic chips can enter the bearing. If you feel that the shaft is sticking a little, then you will have to flush the WD-40 bearing and only then drip the grease inside.
Exhaust Fan Lubrication
Exhaust motors not only fail due to lack of lubrication. They have installed powerful engines and impellers are large, so the faulty exhaust motor starts to emit loud unpleasant sounds... Plus, the engine starts to overheat and wedge.
Ventilation Exhaust Fan Lubrication
- The suction motor is removed from the protective grille.
- The impeller is removed from the engine. The impeller retaining screw may dry out strongly on the threads because all the oil has dried. It cannot be unscrewed abruptly, you need to increase the effort gradually.
- 2-3 drops of machine oil are dripped onto the bearings. It is not necessary to pour a lot of oil, it will only hurt.
- After applying the oil, the shaft must be twisted so that it better penetrates the metal balls.
- The hood is assembled in reverse order and can be switched on immediately.
Disassembled exhaust fan
Kitchen Exhaust Fan Lubrication
Not all lubricants are suitable for lubricating the cooker hood motor. CV joint whether machine oil may not give any results. An unsuitable composition corrects the situation only for a few days, then the engine again begins to overheat and make noise. In this case, a liquid silicone mixture for working in especially harsh conditions (temperature range from -40 to +300 degrees Celsius) can help. Silicone will protect engine parts from grease that is sucked in along with the air. Otherwise, the lubrication process for the hood motor is the same as for the ventilation motor. Disassembling the hood takes longer than the ventilation grill, but it must be lubricated more often.
If Lubrication Doesn't Help
Sometimes lubrication may not work, the impeller will still have difficulty spinning. This means that the balls in the bearings have exhausted their resource and begin to wedge. Only replacing bearings with new ones will help here. This rarely happens, these are either very old models, or these are devices that were stored without preliminary preservation and have become unusable from corrosion.
Exhaust fan in the ventilation system
