Home Lighting How to properly shift into first gear and how to quickly accelerate in a car. What is rebase? Re-gasing the engine

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How to properly shift into first gear and how to quickly accelerate in a car. What is rebase? Re-gasing the engine

Many novice and sometimes more experienced drivers have not heard of terms such as overrunning and double depressing. Such driving techniques are useful in modern driving (especially if there is a manual transmission). Let's consider the presented techniques in more detail.

Re-gas

Re-gasification is when the engine speed rises in neutral. This is the reverse process of downshifting.

It is about increasing the engine thrust.

When a quick start or a quick maneuver is made, a rebase occurs. Experienced people say that this reduces the inertia of the motor.

When you are in neutral, the main thing is to pause in time. You need to catch the right grip moment when starting off.

Re-gas technique:

Slowly reduce revs and start engine braking.
Depress the clutch and release the accelerator pedal.
We turn on neutral.
The clutch pedal must be fully released.
Increase engine speed (1 front).
We squeeze out the clutch.
We turn on the first gear.
Release the friction clutch smoothly.

Why rebase (when braking)?

Enter the turn.
To prevent sudden movement of the vehicle.
For smooth braking.
Performed with a sharp maneuver.
Avoid emergency.

Usually used when overtaking, on the rise, when entering a sharp turn.

There is one more term - high-speed re-gasification. Most often used in very extreme situations. For example, during snowstorms, when the road was covered with snow, very steep ascents, on loose roads;

Double squeeze

Double squeezing is considered:

Squeezed out the clutch.
He switched on neutral.
Released the clutch.
Squeezed it out again.
And put it in gear.

To put it another way, double squeeze is a gear upshift by double pressing on the clutches.

Double squeeze is needed to facilitate the inclusion of the transfer.

The technique of this squeezing:

Acceleration in first gear up to 3 thousand rpm
Squeeze the clutch and release the gas.
We pass to the neutral position.
Let go of the clutch.
A short pause (at this moment synchronization occurs).
We squeeze out the clutch.
We turn on the transfer.
We release the friction clutch.
Press the gas pedal (increase the engine speed.

Synchronizer

Synchronizers are an integral part of the transmission. These are mechanisms. They synchronize the rotational number of the shaft and gears.

The gearbox contains the spectra of the rotational speeds of the motor and wheels. They have mismatches, and to do the alignment, you need a synchronizer.

These techniques can be used in any situation. The main thing is to know their meanings, methods and correctly perform in an extreme situation.

Many modern drivers have not even heard of such a concept as "double squeezing the clutch" when shifting gears in manual transmissions. However, it will be useful for all drivers to be aware of this method. You need to start considering this issue with the history of the automotive industry. On old cars in the checkpoint, there were no synchronizers at all.

Synchronizers are devices that equalize the peripheral speed and prevent the gear from locking until the gears of the input shaft and the secondary gear are equal. To avoid breakdowns of the gearbox and extend its service life, the so-called double squeezing of the clutch (when shifting upward), and re-gasing when shifting down, was used. In other words, without such tweaks, it was almost impossible to change gears of the gearbox without synchronizers (there would be a rattle).

Let's take a closer look at these switching methods. So, double squeezing is used when shifting gears from low to high. For example, let's take a shift from first gear to second.

Double Clutch Technique:

We accelerate in first gear (up to 3000 rpm);

Press the clutch pedal and release the gas pedal;

Turn on "neutral";

Release the clutch completely;

We make a short pause, during which synchronization occurs (the engine speed will drop to about 2000) i.e. if we went in second gear;

Depress the clutch pedal again;

We turn on the transfer (in this example - the second);

We increase the engine speed by pressing the gas pedal.

Using the same algorithm, they switch from the second speed to the third, etc.

Re-gasification:

Now about the gas supply. It is used when shifting from upper gears to lower ones. As an example, consider shifting from second gear to first.

We release the gas pedal, and we brake with the engine in second gear. If necessary, slow down by pressing the brake pedal;

Squeeze the clutch pedal and completely release the gas pedal;

Turn on "neutral";

Release the clutch pedal completely;

We add a little engine speed by pressing the gas pedal, at this moment synchronization occurs (engine speed rises if you were driving in first gear);

Fully depress the clutch pedal;

We turn on the first gear;

Let go of the clutch pedal;

We are moving in first gear.

The main points here are the observance of a pause or rebase, with a neutral gear engaged. The main difficulty lies in the correct choice of the pause duration and the correct rebase, but with experience everything turns out to be much easier than it seems at the beginning. With the advent of the skill, everything will happen, as they say, "automatically."

Of course, modern gearboxes equipped with synchronizers (which are precisely designed to save drivers from all these "double squeezes") do not require the use of the above methods of gear shifting, nevertheless, if you master them, you can significantly extend the life of the gearbox. In any case, such a skill will not be superfluous, especially when shifted from upper gears down. I would like to note that the downward rotation will help to extend the life of the synchronizers (the load on them will decrease), and also if the machine does not pull up the hill, it will help to switch without loss of traction, increasing the torque downward.

Do you want the car to kick up? Turn on the lowered one!

With downshifts, the situation is somewhat more complicated than with their ups. If you are a novice driver and this is not obvious to you, do the following: accelerate to 50 km / h in 3rd gear, engage 2nd gear and quickly, as usual, release the clutch pedal. As a result, the tachometer needle will jump up sharply, and the car will jerk great. Try it! Happened?

This will always be the case when changing from high gear to low, only the intensity of the jerk will be different depending on the speed and gear. Why is there a jerk? As the sharply "bouncing" tachometer needle shows us, when the gear is lowered, the engine speed increases. If, when switching from II to III gear, the arrow drops from 3500 to 2500 rpm, then when switching from III to II, on the contrary, it jumps from 2500 to 3500. This means that turning on a lower gear, we forcibly accelerate the motor to higher revs. Since the rotating parts of the engine are heavy and inert, they resist spinning, which results in a jerk of the machine. It turns out that the jerk is like a protest of the motor :)

Re-gas or clutch?

So I recommend that you regularly, with each downshift, use a re-throttle and, preferably, with a double depressing of the clutch pedal. Re-throttle will change gears faster, smoother and safer for both road traffic and car parts than by gently releasing the clutch pedal. Of course, rebasing is difficult to master, but if you do it all the same, then, I'm afraid, you will like it, so much so that you will not tear it off! And then you won't put you behind the machine :)))

Toe Forever!

By the way, peregazovka (in English: toe) came to us from the good old fifties, from trucks that did not have synchronizers and the transmission could not be switched on without perepazovka in principle. Therefore, today we sometimes come across the point of view that, they say, overgrowing is an anachronism, greetings from the past, and that any modern machine perfectly copes with downshifting and without overgrowing. If you think so, then let's go back to the second paragraph of this article and once again turn on the downshift without overrunning. And for greater clarity, let's go to 50 km / h not to the second, but immediately to the first gear. Just choose a place on the road that is quieter and wider, otherwise you will fly off the road, it will not seem a little ...

I will also add that perezhazka is an integral part of the arsenal of techniques of any professional racer. So if you are planning to take up sporty driving, relaunching is a must for you! Try it, go for it!

And if you need practice - come to the courses "The magic of gear shifting" or "Driving on the race track". Novice drivers will be better served by the course "Driving in the city", and for advanced drivers I can also advise to take an exclusive course of our school: "MBA course for a driver: Mastery of Car Driving".

Even if you do not intend to comprehend the heights of racing driving, in any case, overhauling is an element of driving skills and the calling card of a competent driver. Recommend!

With shifting and downshifting - everything, and in the next article I will finally tell you

There are many types of rebase. Its initial use was due to the absence of synchronizers in the variable gearbox, which excluded their smooth engagement. Today, re-gasification is used for smoother changes in engine rpm when downshifting at high speed. In the event of a downgrade, the engine and gearbox are heavily stressed, which can adversely affect performance.

How to properly re-gas?

With a standard overturning on the rise, before overtaking, in a turn, we reset the fuel supply and squeeze the clutch. Without stopping in neutral, we lower it.
Press and release the accelerator pedal sharply and briefly increase the fuel supply. We bring the engine speed to the value of the maximum torque. Let go of the clutch and open the throttle.
When lowering through the gear, turn off the fuel supply to the engine, squeeze the clutch. We turn on the neutral gear and bring the engine speed to the value of the maximum torque with a margin for engaging a low gear.
Shift down and release the clutch pedal. We increase the fuel supply.
In the event of an extreme situation, we use high-speed re-gasification. Before the engine starts to lose RPM, hold the throttle open and slowly engage the clutch.
At the moment of a sharp rise in revolutions, we include a downshift and clutch. Delaying the release will cause the clutch to slip, which will raise the engine speed to the level you want.
Applying re-gasification to compensate for the loss of revolutions when increasing the gear, disengage the clutch, move the gear knob to the neutral position. Sharply, but in doses, we increase and decrease the fuel supply. Engage an overdrive, remove your foot from the clutch pedal and open the fuel supply.

See also:

Despite the fact that this is an extremely rare choice of gear when driving a car, there are still situations in which there is a need to switch to the first speed (gear), which is preferable for faster acceleration while the car is moving, although such a switch will be associated with certain additional difficulties ...

Changing gears can be an automotive art for drivers to fully understand exactly what actions form smooth transitions between gears, engine rpm, and different shaft speeds. And while first gear is by its very nature designed solely to get the car moving, the studs and very tight turns multiplied by the steep incline may require the driver to shift into a gear with a higher torque ratio, namely , at the first gearbox speed.

If you dear friends (motorists) have tried to switch to the first gear (speed) in this way, you may have noticed for yourself how difficult it is to "stick" the first gear at speed, up to the very clanking under the hood of the car and even with full squeeze clutch. Let's reassure you right away, everything is in order with your pet, the car, the box has not broken, the synchronizers have not crumbled. Everything is very simple, you need to know and own a special technique for switching to the lowest speed (gear).

In ordinary life, this situation with the transition to 1st gear occurs precisely in the case when a motorist, when approaching a traffic light, actually just stopped his car at a red light and here suddenly a green traffic light comes on for him when the car needs to move quickly. The second gear of the box will pull the car almost from a place for a long time, then by hook or by crook you will need to immediately turn on the first low speed (gear), here and at this very moment the knowledge that we will help you. we want to provide you today in this article.

Technically, the problem itself is that the difference in the ratios between second and first gear is quite (too) large. Therefore, synchronizers do not always manage to successfully cope with this task to fill this very gap. Synchronizing devices in the first gear have to work much harder than in other gears, which can certainly lead to their early failure and to the indispensable.

In fact, the actions of the synchronizers themselves can be compared to a small clutch that is installed on the output shaft between the deceleration or increase gears relative to the speed of the gears, which perform the action (work) of lightly engaging the teeth in the gear. Therefore, the following turns out, when an attempt is made to switch to the first gear, then at this very moment the relative speed between the output shaft and the input shaft will be excessively high (large), compared to other different and less relative speeds (gears).

Take the transmission of a 2016 Honda Civic as an example. The ratio for the first gear in this box is 3,6:1 which means for every 3.6 complete crankshaft revolutions, the gear makes only one revolution. 2nd gear has a ratio 2,1:1 , 3rd gear ratio is 1,4:1 , 4th gear with ratio 1:1 direct gear, 5th gear has the ratio 0,8:1 , and the last 6th gear has a ratio 0,7:1 .

As you can see friends, the difference in the gear ratio of the teeth of the gears becomes less and less with their transition to higher gears, which in turn makes it easier for the synchronizers to compare the speeds of rotation of the gears.

However, similar and similar problems can arise not only when switching from second to first gear.

For example, you need to overtake a vehicle and there is not enough distance to a solid line. You are in fourth gear and have already started to bypass the vehicle being overtaken. You need to accelerate quickly. The only logical way in this situation for you is to downshift.

And the third? It is unlikely that the car needs more intense acceleration. An experienced driver comparing at this moment the speed and engine speed can instantly come to the conclusion that it is necessary to turn on the second speed. OK. But there is one "but", to do this without a clear understanding of the actions performed by the driver will be very, very difficult and that will be extremely harmful for the box itself. Therefore, friends remember, there are certain and correct solutions for the safe performance of overtaking vehicles.

They (actions) can be divided into two main groups: double clutch release and rebase .

They allow to equalize the crankshaft rotation speeds and reduce the load on the synchronizers in the gear, thereby contributing to smooth shifting. *

* Despite the effectiveness of these methods, we still do not recommend their regular use, especially in those moments when you shift into first gear, since it will still not work to reduce shock loads as much as possible and the transmission will still receive additional stress.

Double clutch release

You can learn more about this shifting technique in our article: - "Here (in this article) we will outline and tell you about the basic postulates of gear shifting techniques.

Summarizing the process of downshifting from fourth to third speed: