Light! Let's right away.
You need: Mazda 3 with an old brake. The brake fluid is 0882380004 Toyota 467p. Welcome on 8 and on 9 - free. The pipe is transparent - a penny. Perfections - free.
Assistant - 1.5 liters of beer.
We start from the right rear wheel, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front, then the working cylinder of the clutch. Machine and remove the left rear wheel, unscrew the tank tank cover, plant assistant per steering wheel. We wear a rubber tube on the fitting (Omivaki tube windshieldIn any autowie department), then the key on 8 it is unscrewed and the assistant is beginning to put the brake pedal.
With this highway, we must drain the entire volume of the tank + the volume of the highway so that from the following highways, merge only the highway, sorry for the tautology. In order not to enjoy the system, you need to monitor the level of the brakes and pour it into the tank. Also, not to be recent, it can be pumped in the following way - with a closed fitting 3-4 times 3-4 to press the brake pedal, leave it in the lower position, open the fitting, under pressure, the fluid is cheerfully, then close the fitting, after closing release the brake pedal and again Press it 3-4 times, open a fitting, etc. Well, in general, here ... We merged the tank and the right highway, unscrew the wheel with a wheel, drain the highway, unscrew the PP wheel, drain the line. By the way, on the front wheels under key nocture No. 9. We unscrew the LP Wheel, drain the highway, it is the smallest.
It remains only to drain the tormozuhu from the working cylinder, it had to look for :)
I was not fully defense, unscrewed two front bolts to cover your hand. In theory, the clutch pumps the clutch pedal, but I have a liquid very much cheerfully flowed. And when they tried to pump a pedal, she remained in the lower position. So I changed the brake, I didn't notice anything new on the brakes, the clutch pedal became a little easier. Although now, in a week, I think she remained the same.
I still reap your air filter. I repent, I will say.
Something like this.
www.drive2.ru.
Liquids for Mazda: What and where to fill?
Different working fluids and oils are needed in the car to:
- avoid overheating
- achieve better lubrication of rubbing surfaces
- transmit effort, etc.
Pulling - the process is responsible and important. In this case, it is carried out only if there is a consumption. If the indicators on the tank or probe are within the normal range - between MIN and MAX marks, then nothing needs to top up. Level control is better to carry out regularly - every two or three days. Also check the levels does not prevent both before a long trip and after it.
A sharp drop in the level may indicate a malfunction - it is better to immediately contact specialized service.
Pouring brake fluid
Example brake fluid For Mazda
The brake fluid is needed in the car to transfer efforts from the brake pedal to the pads that directly block the wheels, causing a car stop. To find where to pour it into Mazda 3 - open the hood and looking around the engine wall (windshield) white tank, on the cover of which there is an inscription "DOT" (black cover, and the inscriptions are yellow). Before the fill, we look at the level on the front, relative to the movement of the car, the wall is the corresponding marks. Normal importance - in the middle between them. It is better to use brake fluids with DOT 3 or 4 labeling.
Pour oil
One of the types of oils from mazda companies
The only place in Mazda 3, where to fill the oil yourself - the engine. Here this contains a special neck, closed with a lid with the corresponding designation "Maslenka". Before the plot - check its level to the dipstick. If it is between the minimum and maximum marks - it is not necessary to pour.
The choice of oil for Mazda 3 depends on the tastes of the driver. Quite a lot of owners prefer to pour corporate oil Mazda, which is originally used in factory production (the car comes with it in the engine). Other owners prefer well-known global brands, which also in the development and production of oils are focused on the working parameters of most modern cars.
Antifreeze
Antifreeze offered by Mazda
Cooling fluid - antifreeze, is designed to support operating temperature Engine and not give it overheat. Place where to pour it into Mazda 3, you can find if you look at podcast space From the headlights - to the left of the engine will be an expansion tank. You can only add antifreeze only on the cooled engine - otherwise the risk of burns from hot steam and antifreeze is possible.
Normal level - between the marks of the minimum and maximum. For topping it is best to use corporate antifreeze Mazda. The fact is that the recipe is the secret of companies - car manufacturers. At the same time, it is chosen so that the liquid for all surfaces with which it comes into contact is not aggressive. Such a property allows antifreeze to serve for a long time (90 thousand runs or 3 years of operation).
To the selection of working fluids and oils need to be approached with special care. It is better to use the original, but if they are not available, and the replacement / tank is needed - take those that is better in quality, in the case of antifreeze, this parameter will be color.
mazdavod.ru.
replacing the brake fluid - Logbook Mazda 3 2008 on DRIVE2
From the header it is clear that the liquid asked for a replacement, it is the alone clutch because of which, perhaps, badly turned on the speed of the cause described here, was surprisingly helped! Maybe from the fact that the liquid was not changed for sure how much cottages from birth, so much on the car stands and stood native. Replaced for dot 4 from Honda. Replacement in two years on the manual. That's how it is necessary to monitor and not only the oil change in the engine, but also brake system. I will say that the speeds began to turn on noticeably better, then the effect is from the operation done! Changed to a hundred. Attaching the tank with a brake fluid with a leaf of tanks with a brake fluid with a tank, and on the other hand, the air under pressure was served to the tank, and the method of extrusion of the old clad from each brake caliper, the old alone was burned in a small one, and for one of the highways leading to each brake caliper. In general, it is not necessary for any physical intervention in the punching pedal, the Tormaz remained normal. Maybe you can almost more sensitively, it took it all about an hour. I left somewhere 900 grams of liquid. Now two more years and then again for replacement. Since the liquid absorbs the water means its density will deteriorate. Through the brakes and clutch. Now it remains to enjoy the good work of the brakes and clutch or again stand up with problems like those described here that led to a replacement not only liquid but also rake. And then it will probably cost a maximum working cylinder brakes and probably a pair of cylinders))))) I will hope that everything will be fine))) not like with a rack)))
Question Price: 2 000 ₽ Mileage: 116000 km
www.drive2.ru.
Brake fluid - what kind of volume when replacing? - serving Mazda 3
Greetings to all. Recently I bought my Matrehu 2l Restayl. Changed all fluids, flurtral, etc. There was one question regarding the brake fluid. I climbed the forum, many write that 1 liter is needed for replacement, but the grip on Mazdah is hydraulic, so I wondered where the liquid is taken for it. Therefore, those who have come across it would like to ask a few questions: 1. On the clutch to go its separate tank or liquid taken from the overall sisthem? 2. How much should the brake fluid need for a complete replacement, taking into account the fact that the adhesion goes to a separate tank or liquid is taken from common system?
2. A week ago I changed at-60 000. 1 liter
Litra is a lot, take 0.75 .. it will be left!
0,7325 Price Canisters 300 rubles
less liter, one barrels and on the coupling and on the tormazulki))
Thanks for the pick, I just don't understand why I was told that the liter would be even a little, and the alleged 2 liter is allegedly given the entire system to replace (
idiots))
Litra is a lot, take 0.75 .. it will be left!
0,7325 Price canisters 300 rubles. Here is the price. The question is asked the question ... I gave the answer. Yes, it looms what a lot to pour. Yes, and the volume is different goes ... I personally took three at 0.25.
I am a commitment to pour out normal fluid - so the DEXELIA ULTRA 5W-30 was flooded in the motor, box Motul Gear. 300 And here in Tormazuha is going to Ate Dot 4 or also Motul. Just like this question about litters put in a dead end. Guys familiar change me all, I know them for a long time, adequate and chants therefore, they cannot be called idiot))) Most likely they said that 2 liters for reinsurance, because they did not come across the replacement of the Tormozuhi in Mazda and somehow put it if only Tormozuhu Change 1 liter gravel, and here it is still tied with a clutch hydraulic device, so there is also a liquid from their words to pump clutch
in the liter, we are settled, 700 grams need well, and plus the definition ... liter .... the flap is swinging 4 sides completely))))) 40 grams)))))
I am a commitment to pour a normal fluid - so the DEXELIA Ultra 5W-30 was flooded in the motor, Motul Gear 300 box, and I'm going to the tormazuha Ate Dot 4 or also Motul. Just like this question about the litter put in a dead end. Guys familiar change me all, I know them for a long time, adequate and chants therefore, they cannot be called idiot))) Most likely they said that 2 liters for reinsurance, because they did not come across the replacement of the Tormozuhi in Mazda and somehow put it if only Tormozuhu Change 1 liter gravel, and here it is still tied with a clutch hydraulic device, so there is also a liquid from their words to pump clutch
yes, I personally changed myself, pumped up completely ... Two liters do not need real. If you do not believe..bury liter ... Enough for the eyes!
and ohochel?))))))))
Thank you by people will take a liter of the brakes and patch on the octochel as Solyaris77 advised
And what brake is better pouring, 4 or 5.1 and is there any difference?) And the question is still like this: how much is the liters need to replace oil in the manual transmission?
In the manual transmission I changed a week ago for 2 liters, I bought 3 liters Motul. And I'm a brake dot4.
On sports in a 4.04 liter box .. TORMERUKHUKHES IN THE SYSTEM 800 grams!
And what brake is better pouring, 4 or 5.1 and is there any difference?) And the question is still like this: how much is the liters need to replace oil in the manual transmission?
As far as I know the difference in the boiling point in 5.1 above, so if you often slow down it is better for it))
on sports in a box of 4.04 liters..Tramubuhi in the 800 grams system!
Where did you get such a digit? Maybe you meant the oil in the engine 4.3l? Or am I not a dopter and driving with a half-empty box?))))
Attached images
the topic is about TORMOKHUU .. But still .. in any case, it fills up to the control opening ...
I realized that about Tormozuhu and the fact that no more liter also suggested to me good people on the forum. Just really did not understand where 4.04 liters in the manual transmission is in the manual 3. You don't eat me so much))))
About Tormozuhu everything is clear. But about the box is not very. Why did I discharged 4l Motul for the box?
they called friends here ... asked between business .. They said, like 3.04
I did not understand about the difference between Dot 5 and Dot 4 liquids, can someone tell me?)
and on the cover of DOT3 written .. PFM ??
I decided to finally change the story in Gure! Raised to the lift, before that we unscrew the lid of the barrel of the gur, removed the protection. Dealer pressed from the Hamut hose and drove the loose hose. Zhiy flowed, causing just pi * dech some one! Worse than working out from the engine! Widdle when it stops leaking from the hose, after which they twisted the steering wheel in different directions until the stop stops, somewhere 5 times each way. It was still decently decently oil if it can be called that. I put the hose to the place, they put Hamut and defense. The car was filled, poured the entire oil tank, almost to the neck. Now the welder and immediately stuck it, the level went. Dollled the oil and again, started and immediately stuck, the oil left again. Again ragged and started the car, waited 30 seconds and began to turn the steering wheel in different directions until it stops. After all, it rained the oil in terms of the level and everything. I make it changed it, but it was immediately smoking, I had to wash, and I bought only a liter of oil. Oil by the way bought the original ATF M-V. From the factory, the ATF M-III.M-III is mineral water, and the ATF M-V semi-synthetic, it can be poured after mineral water, and on the contrary it is already impossible.
Right now I ride a little, let it promote and change again. If anyone is going to change, take a couple of liters at once. For the entire system, somewhere 800 grams have passed everything.
www.drive2.ru.
- Mazda 3 ::: BK (2003-2009), BL (2009-2013), BM (2013-N.V.)
What oil should be in the steering hydraulicBike -----\u003e Golf2 1.6 ------\u003e Golf4 1.4 -------\u003e Golf4 1.9TDI --------\u003e Mazda 3 2.0 Sport
What oil should be in the steering hydraulic
Power Steering System Type: Fluid Type ATF M-III OR EQUIVALENTY (EG Dexronii) CapacityCapacity * (Approximate Quantity) (L (US QT, IMP QT)) 1.20 (1.27, 1.06) (Z6) 0.80 (0.84, 0.70) (LF ) The source of Mazda Service Matrrals is not comprehended - do not say, do not appreciate - do not take, do not answer - do not promise
You can not - do not jump ......
and how often should it be changed? And how to understand that it is time to change. ???
Only check and topping. Replacing in the case of repair of the steering rack or pump hydraulic power steering. For those who ask, but is lazy to find the answer itself
Maintenance Regulation
8-4 to 8-6
http: //www.mazda-usi...3_to14.file.pdf.
Do not comprehend - do not say, do not appreciate - do not take, do not answer - do not promise
You can not - do not jump ......
Mobil ATF 220 or 320 is suitable, also any oil for automata that recommends the Mazda plant it is written in the mat parts you need to change it when it changes the color instead of red to dark, if it is black with impurities, it is necessary to change the wash system to replace 1 liter On replacement with flushing 2-4 liters, depending on the state .. About the topping, in principle, the oil does not eat it, it simply circulates there, if, with each check, the level decrease then it is just somewhat flowing .. if not changing the oil in egur The warranty machine and the warranty is also possible in the end, ultimately buy yourself a new egur this treats a 2 liter motor for 1.6 problems there are no such problems!I replace your horse Tachantka box!
I changed 2 weeks ago on the Mobil ATF220 (Dextron II), it became a little easier to rotate the steering wheel. On the Audyashka, the guro oil color almost never changed, but smelled burner or burned, after replacing any improvements did not notice. Age 7 years, mileage 72000, changed due to smell. I took my original. Bought in the store Rus Syringe big from the tank groaned. Falling fresh, the steering wheel twisted, sucked (oil))) flooded, twisted. The liter jar was enough to already in the tank oil was the same color as in a bottle. In a bottle, by the way, there are still milliliters 200 left.Do not always say what you know, but always know what you say
What oil should be in the steering hydraulic
So you have a hydraulic tank is empty?
mazdaclub.cc.
Oil in automatic transmission and gur. Need advice. - Logbook Mazda 3 chariot of the 2005 gods on Drive2
The oil in the automatic transmission is slightly lower than half and not the first freshness. It is necessary to change. A few questions regarding oil: 1) The manufacturer laid M III, but for some reason the tolerance mark m V. The dealer clarified to pour mour III.
I decided M III, even despite the improved characteristics M V. The right choice?
2) Question on the order of the oil itself, let's say exist.
Here I was embarrassed by the cost of liter container, it is cheaper than 4 liter, which is in principle very strange and the difference in the liter themselves. What is the probability of not running on the fake and from where it is better to order? 3) Mileage for 200,000. Do I need to change the filter? (If you change, then I will definitely take the original). And the passing question is what number of liters with the filter and without? 4) in gur is also M III? And how much is the replacement for? 5) the option of replacement (if M V), but there is an underwater stone from mineral water on the synthetics. It's not a secret to anyone that the oil for Mazd does Idemitsu, so came across the analyzes of IDEMITSU ATF TYPE-M and MAZDA ATF M-V. Analyzes 1 in 1, but the difference in the nature of the oil itself. Who has any thoughts or experience?
I would like to get competent answers. Thank you.
www.drive2.ru.
Replacing Oil Gora - Logbook Mazda 3 2011 on Drive2
In the instruction book, it is written that the replacement of the gur's liquid is not produced, but only it is performed. On each, just check. ...
But like any other fluid over time, it loses its properties. The liquid that was fused was black, the burnt ... in one word I had my own. Replacement associated the remaining oil after replacing the automatic transmission. The volume of oil in Gura is small and does not exceed 800 ml. So the remaining 1.5 liters had enough full.
What pouring in GUR I knew initially.
Analogue of the original oil, and point original oil In another package
The replacement technology is simple. The car rises on the lift, the old merged (do not wait for a large volume), does not forget to turn the steering wheel, pour a new one to maximum. Turtle steering, merges. And we repeat everything until the oil is flushed clean.
I did not notice the difference in a huge, but when the steering wheel was turned less ... or self-compliance. And the first km of the path seemed that the steering wheel became more tight and more clearly reacted to the team.
Question Price: 500 ₽ Mileage: 68400 km
On Mazda cars, the third series by the manufacturer is provided with a fill of antifreeze as a coolant. Antifreeze tinted with red, blue and green flowers.
Today, you can find the original concentrated antifreeze for MAZDA 3, the composition of which provides for its dilution using the addition of distilled water.
If the cooling system is leakage, then the liquid can evaporate, or leak, requires constant control over the level of antifreeze in the expansion tank and, if necessary, should be carried out with a plot.
Antifreeze requires replacement through the time set by the manufacturer or depending on the operating conditions. This necessity allows you to observe the frost-resistant properties of antifreeze, as well as warn the appearance of corrosion. The replacement of antifreeze should be made with a frequency of 90,000 miles of run or after three years since the fill.
Antifreeze is based on ethylene glycol, ideally suitable for any cooling system, which can contain various metals. Usually, interest ratio Anticorrosion additive and antifreeze The manufacturer indicates on the package.
Cooling fluid replacement process
Fluid cooling fluid
- Move the engine car Mazda. 3 And wait until it completely cools. Unscrew the tank cover for the cooling fluid to make it turn it away in the direction counterclockwise to several revolutions, then wait a bit, it will be required to reset the pressure in the system. Only then can completely unscrew the lid and remove it.
- Put the car on hand brake, Raise the car on the lift.
- Remove the lower radiator panel located in the center. Unscrew the fastening bolts and disconnect the clamps that secure the panel.
- In the lower right of the radiator there is a drain plug, put under drainer Empty capacity, preferably large volume.
- Unscrew the cork and drain the cooling fluid into the cooked container.
- After the liquid stalks, bring the container to the drain plug located on the cylinder block. If the engine has a balancing shaft, then there will be two such drain plugs, one will be located on the left in the front, and the other on the left in the back of the block. After unscrewing drain plugs, give liquids fully drain from the block.
- Place all rejected drain plugs in place.
Flushing cooling system
- To carry out the process of flushing the radiator, disconnect the pipes going to the radiator from above and below.
- Next, you need a garden hose or something similar, insert it into the hole for the upper pipe on the radiator. Send a stream with clean water into the radiator, so you wash the cooling radiator, carry out the procedure until there is no transparent water, without contamination, from the hole on the radiator for the lower nozzle.
- If a long time from the radiator flows up dirty water, then it is necessary to apply special tool For flushing cooling systems.
- If you use washing fluid, Carefully read the manufacturer's instructions. If your car's radiator has very strong contaminants, then completely remove it, insert the hose into the hole below, intended for the bottom nozzle, and start rinse the radiator contractions.
Cooling the coolant
- Before you start filling the cooling system with a new antifreeze, check the condition of all hoses and clamps, the hoses must be without damage, and the clamps must be tightened enough. Remember that antifreeze is used all year round, so you can prevent corrosion of engine parts.
- At first, pour the required amount of antifreeze into an empty clean container of a large volume, add distilled water to it in proportions 1: 1, the finished volume of the resulting liquid should be 6.5-7 liters.
- Slowly start pouring the cooked liquid into the system through the bay hole on expansion tank, do not hurry, let air go through the cooling channels. Liquid pour up to the level of max on the wall markup of the expansion tank.
- Place the coolant tank cover and tighten it tightly.
- Run the car engine, leave it to work on idling. Wait until the cooling system fan turns on and then turns off. During this time, the remains of the air should come out of the system. Muffle the engine.
- Wait until the engine cools, after which the antifreeze level is inspected in the tank, if necessary, the addition of antifreeze or water distilled.
Attention! Important!
- Before starting work on the replacement of antifreeze, drove the engine and wait for its full cooling.
- It is impossible to allow antifreeze to hit the skin or on the painted parts of the car body, otherwise it should be washed with the specified surfaces under the jet clean water Large.
- You can not leave an open container with antifreeze without supervision or store it in easily accessible places, and keep it in an open form - liquid is extremely poisonous!
- After filling the antifreeze to the system, attach to the neck of the coolant tank with a coolant, which indicate the type of flooded fluid, its color and the dates of the fill. With further plot of the cooling fluid, it will be clear which type is needed, and in what proportion.
- When removing antifreeze is not for the purpose of replacement, but for other reasons, if it is clean and used less than three years, it can be used secondary.
- If the antifreeze is replaced not in a timely manner or on the walls of the cooling channels, a layer of scale, rust and other deposits was formed, which led to a decrease in the efficiency of the cooling system, it is possible to restore its properties by washing the system.
| Months | TO-0. | 12,36,60,84,108,132 | 24,12 | 48,96 | 72 | 144 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mileage, bend | 5 | 15,45,75,105,135,165 | 30,15 | 60,12 | 90 | 180 | |
| check every 120,000 km for noise, adjustment if necessary | |||||||
| Fuel filter | Replacement every 60,000 km | ||||||
| P | P | P | Z. | Z. | |||
| Air filter * 4 | ABOUT | ABOUT | Z. | ABOUT | Z. | ||
| P | P | ||||||
| Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | ||
| Drive straps * 2 | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Syst. cooling in DVS | P | P | P | P | |||
| FL 22 coolant | |||||||
| Other cooling fluids | |||||||
| Fuel tubes and hoses | P | P | |||||
| P | P | P | P | P | |||
| Brake fluid * 3 | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | |||
| P | P | P | P | P | |||
| Parking brake | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| P | P | P | P | P | |||
| P | P | P | P | P | |||
| P | P | P | P | ||||
| P | P | P | P | P | |||
| T. | T. | T. | |||||
| Z. | Z. | ||||||
| P | P | P | |||||
| P | P | P | P | P | |||
| P | P | P | P | P | |||
| Anthers of the semi-axes, shrusov | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| P | P | P | P | P | |||
| Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | ||||
| Loops and locks (lubrication) | FROM | FROM | FROM | FROM | |||
| Check annually | |||||||
| P | P | P | P | P | |||
| P | P | P | P | P | |||
* 4 - When using a car in dusty conditions or on sandy territories, replacement air filter Every 7500 km or 6 months.
Regulation Mazda 3 MPS since 2008
| Interval then (months and kilometers), which will come earlier. | Months | TO-0. | 12,84,132 | 24,48,96,120 | 36,108 | 60 | 72,144 | 120 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mileage, bend | 5 | 15,105,165 | 30,60,120,150 | 45,135 | 75 | 90,180 | 150 | |
| Fuel filter | Replacement every 120,000 km | |||||||
| Spark plugs, checking (replacement if necessary) | P | P | P | Z. | P | Z. | ||
| Air filter * 4 | ABOUT | ABOUT | Z. | ABOUT | Z. | ABOUT | ||
| The fuel vapor absorption system (if installed) | P | P | ||||||
| Motor oil I. oil filter *1 | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | |
| Drive straps * 2 | P | P | P | |||||
| Syst. Cooling in DVS | P | P | P | |||||
| FL 22 coolant | Replacement every 195,000 km or 11 years | |||||||
| Other cooling fluids | Replacement for the first time of 90,000 km or 4 years, followed every 2 | |||||||
| Fuel tubes and hoses | P | P | P | |||||
| The level and density of the electrolyte AKB | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Brake fluid * 3 | Z. | Z. | Z. | |||||
| Brake tubes, hoses and their connections | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Parking brake | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Brake amplifier, hoses and its connections | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Disc brakes (check with wheel removal) | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Function of the steering, steering hinges | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Liquid gur, tubes, hoses, connections | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Body fastening bolts and chassis | T. | T. | T. | |||||
| Butter mechanical gearbox, replacement | Z. | Z. | ||||||
| Mechanical gearbox oil check | P | P | P | P | ||||
| Oil level in automatic gearbox | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Balloons, bolts and nuts front and rear suspension | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Anthers of the semi-axes, shrusov | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Graduation system. and thermal protection of the body | Check every 80,000 km | |||||||
| Air filter salon (if installed) | Z. | Z. | P | |||||
| Loops and locks (lubrication) | FROM | FROM | FROM | |||||
| Body condition (rust, corrosion, consequences of an accident) | Check annually | |||||||
| Electrical systems, external light and interior lighting. | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Tire pressure (with swollen to nom. Values) and condition | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
O - Cleaning, W - Replacement, P - Check, T - broach, C - Lubrication
* 1 - If the car is operated in any of the following conditions, it is recommended to change motor oil and oil filter every 7500 km:
- Long work on idling or moving at low speeds.
- For a long time in cold times or permanent riding only short distances.
* 2 - also checked and regulated drive belts Hydraulic steering and air conditioning, if this equipment is installed on the car.
* 3 - With a frequent use of brakes or during the operation of the car in a humid climate, replacing the brake fluid every year.
* 4 - When using a car in dusty conditions or on sandy territories, replacing the air filter every 7500 km or 6 months
Regulation MAZDA 3 (1.6 L) to 2008
| Interval then (months and kilometers), which will come earlier. | Months | TO-0. | 12,84 | 24,48,96 | 36 | 60 | 72 | 108 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mileage, bend | 5 | 20,140, | 40,80,160 | 60 | 100 | 120 | 180 | |
| Clearance in the valves of the mechanism of the GRM * 5 | P | |||||||
| Fuel filter * 5 | Replacement every 60,000 km | |||||||
| Z. | ||||||||
| Spark plugs are ordinary | P | Z. | P | P | Z. | Z. | ||
| P | P | P | P | |||||
| Air filter * 4 | ABOUT | ABOUT | Z. | ABOUT | Z. | ABOUT | ||
| P | P | P | ||||||
| Motor oil and oil filter * 1 | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | ||
| Drive straps * 2 | P | P | P | |||||
| Syst. Cooling in DVS | P | P | ||||||
| FL 22 coolant | Replacement every 195,000 km or 11 years | |||||||
| Other cooling fluids | Replacement for the first time of 90,000 km or 4 years, followed every 2 | |||||||
| Fuel tubes and hoses | P | P | ||||||
| The level and density of the electrolyte AKB | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Brake fluid * 3 | Z. | Z. | ||||||
| Brake tubes, hoses and their connections | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Parking brake | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Brake amplifier, hoses and its connections | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Disc brakes (check with wheel removal) | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Function of the steering, steering hinges | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Liquid gur, tubes, hoses, connections | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Connections and steering elements | P | P | ||||||
| Mechanical gearbox oil | Z. | |||||||
| Oil level in automatic gearbox | P | P | P | |||||
| Ball joints, bolts and nuts of the front and rear suspension | P | P | ||||||
| Anthers of the semi-axes, shrusov | P | P | ||||||
| Graduation system. and thermal protection of the body | Check every 80,000 km | |||||||
| Air filter salon (if installed) | Z. | Z. | ||||||
| Loops and locks (lubrication) | FROM | FROM | ||||||
| Body condition (rust, corrosion, consequences of an accident) | Check annually | |||||||
| Electrical systems, external light and interior lighting. | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Tire pressure (with swollen to nom. Values) and condition | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
O - Cleaning, W - Replacement, P - Check, T - broach, C - Lubrication
* 1 - If the car is operated in any of the following conditions, it is recommended to change engine oil and an oil filter every 7500 km:
- Using a car in dusty conditions.
- Long work at idle or moving at low speeds.
- For a long time in cold times or permanent riding only short distances.
* 2 - Drive belts of the steering and air conditioner hydraulic belts are also checked and adjustable, if this equipment is installed on the car.
* 3 - With a frequent use of brakes or during the operation of the car in a humid climate, replacing the brake fluid every year.
* 4 When using a car in dusty conditions or on sandy territories, replacing the air filter every 7500 km or 6 months.
Regulation MAZDA 3 (1.6) since 2008
| Interval then (months and kilometers), which will come earlier. | Months | TO-0. | 2,84,132 | 24,48,96,120 | 36,108 | 60 | 72,144 | 120 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mileage, bend | 5 | 5,105,165, | 30,60,120,150 | 45,135 | 75 | 90,18 | 150 | |
| Clearance in the valves of the GRM mechanism | Check every 45,000 km Il 3 years for noise, adjustment if necessary | |||||||
| Fuel filter | Replacement every 120,000 km | |||||||
| Spark plugs, replacement every 75,000 km. (Iridia) * 8 | P | P | P | P | P | Z. | ||
| Spark plugs are ordinary | P | Z. | P | P | Z. | Z. | ||
| Idling frequency (for ZJ and Z6) | P | P | P | |||||
| Air filter * 4 | ABOUT | ABOUT | Z. | ABOUT | Z. | ABOUT | ||
| The fuel vapor absorption system (if installed) | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | ||
| Motor oil and oil filter * 1 | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | ||
| Drive straps * 2 | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Syst. Cooling in DVS | P | P | P | |||||
| FL 22 coolant | Replacement every 195,000 km or 11 years | |||||||
| Other cooling fluids |
Replacement for the first time of 90,000 km or 4 years, followed every 2 | |||||||
| Fuel tubes and hoses | P | P | P | |||||
| The level and density of the electrolyte AKB | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Brake fluid * 3 | Z. | Z. | Z. | |||||
| Brake tubes, hoses and their connections | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Parking brake | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Brake amplifier, hoses and its connections | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Disc brakes (check with wheel removal) | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Function of the steering, steering hinges | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Liquid gur, tubes, hoses, connections | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Body fastening bolts and chassis | T. | T. | T. | |||||
| Mechanical gearbox oil replacement | Z. | Z. | ||||||
| Mechanical gearbox oil check | P | P | P | P | ||||
| Oil level in automatic gearbox | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Ball joints, bolts and nuts of the front and rear suspension | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Anthers of the semi-axes, shrusov | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Graduation system. and thermal protection of the body | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Air filter salon | P | Z. | P | P | Z. | Z. | ||
| Loops and locks (lubrication) | FROM | FROM | FROM | |||||
| Body condition (rust, corrosion, consequences of an accident) | Check annually | |||||||
| Electrical systems, external light and interior lighting. | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Tire pressure (with swollen to nom. Values) and condition | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
- Using a car in dusty conditions
- Long work at idle or moving at low speeds.
- For a long time in cold times or permanent riding only short distances.
Regulation Mazda 3 (2.0) until 01.01.2008 release
| Interval then (months and kilometers), which will come earlier. | Months | TO-0. | 12,84 | 24,48,96 | 36 | 60 | 72 | 108 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mileage, bend | 5 | 20,140 | 40,80,160 | 60 | 100 | 120 | 180 | |
| clearance in the valves of the GRM mechanism | P | |||||||
| fuel filter | Replacement every 60,000 km | |||||||
| Ignition Candles Replacement every 120,000 km. (Iridia) | Z. | |||||||
| Air filter * 4 | ABOUT | ABOUT | Z. | ABOUT | Z. | Z. | ||
| Exhaust Gas Recycling System | P | P | P | |||||
| Motor oil and oil filter * 1 | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | |
| Drive straps * 2 | P | P | P | |||||
| Syst. Cooling in DVS | P | P | ||||||
| FL 22 coolant | Replacement every 195,000 km or 11 years | |||||||
| Other cooling fluids |
Replacement for the first time of 90,000 km or 4 years, followed every 2 | |||||||
| Fuel tubes and hoses | P | P | ||||||
| The level and density of the electrolyte AKB | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Brake fluid * 3 | Z. | Z. | ||||||
| Brake tubes, hoses and their connections | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Parking brake | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Brake amplifier, hoses and its connections | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Disc brakes (check with wheel removal) | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Function of the steering, steering hinges | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Liquid gur, tubes, hoses, connections | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Connecting and steering elements | P | P | ||||||
| Mechanical gearbox oil | Z. | |||||||
| Oil level in automatic gearbox | P | P | P | |||||
| Ball joints, bolts and nuts of the front and rear suspension | P | P | ||||||
| Anthers of the semi-axes, shrusov | P | P | ||||||
| Graduation system. and thermal protection of the body | Check every 80,000 km | |||||||
| Air filter salon (if installed) | Z. | Z. | ||||||
| Loops and locks (lubrication) | FROM | FROM | FROM | |||||
| Body condition (rust, corrosion, consequences of an accident) | Check annually | |||||||
| Electrical systems, external light and interior lighting. | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Tire pressure (with swollen to nom. Values) and condition | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
O - Cleaning Z - Replacement P-Wheel T - broach C - Lubrication
* 1 If the car is operated in any of the following conditions, it is reconsidated to change engine oil and an oil filter every7500 km:
- Using a car in dusty conditions
- Long work at idle or moving at low speeds.
- For a long time in cold times or permanent riding only short distances.
* 2 Also checked and adjust the drive belts of the steering and air conditioner hydraulic belts, if this equipment is installed on the car.
* 3 With frequent use of brakes or during the operation of a car in a humid climate, replacing the brake fluid every year.
* 4 When using a car in dusty conditions or on sandy territories, replacing the air filter every 7500 km or 6 months
Regulation Mazda 3 (2.0) from 01/01/08
| Interval then (months and kilometers), which will come earlier. | Months | TO-0. | 12,84,132 | 24,48,96,120 | 36,108 | 60 | 72,144 | 120 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mileage, bend | 5 | 15,105,165 | 30,60,120,150 | 45,135 | 75 | 90,180 | 150 | |
| clearance in the valves of the GRM mechanism | check every 45,000 km Il 3 years for noise, adjustment if necessary | |||||||
| fuel filter | Replacement every 120,000 km | |||||||
| Ignition Candles Replacement every 75,000 km. (Iridia) | P | P | P | Z. | P | Z. | ||
| Air filter * 4 | ABOUT | ABOUT | Z. | ABOUT | Z. | ABOUT | ||
| Exhaust Gas Recycling System | P | P | P | |||||
| Motor oil and oil filter * 1 | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | Z. | ||
| Drive straps * 2 | P | P | P | |||||
| Syst. Cooling in DVS | P | P | ||||||
| FL 22 coolant | Replacement every 195,000 km or 11 years | |||||||
| Other cooling fluids |
Replacement for the first time of 90,000 km or 4 years, followed every 2 | |||||||
| Fuel tubes and hoses | P | P | ||||||
| The level and density of the electrolyte AKB | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Brake fluid * 3 | Z. | Z. | ||||||
| Brake tubes, hoses and their connections | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Parking brake | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Brake amplifier, hoses and its connections | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Disc brakes (check with wheel removal) | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Function of the steering, steering hinges | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Liquid gur, tubes, hoses, connections | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Body fastening bolts and chassis | T. | T. | T. | |||||
| Mechanical gearbox oil replacement | Z. | Z. | ||||||
| Mechanical gearbox oil check | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Oil level in automatic gearbox | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Ball joints, bolts and nuts of the front and rear suspension | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Anthers of the semi-axes, shrusov | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Graduation system. and thermal protection of the body | Check every 80,000 km | |||||||
| Air filter salon (if installed) | P | Z. | P | P | Z. | P | ||
| Loops and locks (lubrication) | FROM | FROM | FROM | |||||
| Body condition (rust, corrosion, consequences of an accident) | Check annually | |||||||
| Electrical systems, external light and interior lighting. | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
| Tire pressure (with swollen to nom. Values) and condition | P | P | P | P | P | P | ||
O - Cleaning Z - Replacement P-Wheel T - broach C - Lubrication
* 1 If the car is operated in any of the following conditions, it is reconsidated to change engine oil and an oil filter every7500 km:
- A) use of a car in dusty conditions
- B) Long work at idle or move at low speeds.
- C) a long service time in cold weather or permanent ride only for short distances.
* 2 Also checked and adjust the drive belts of the steering and air conditioner hydraulic belts, if this equipment is installed on the car.
* 3 With frequent use of brakes or during the operation of a car in a humid climate, replacing the brake fluid every year.
* 4 When using a car in dusty conditions or on sandy territories, replacing the air filter every 7500 km or 6 months
There are many points that are interested in car enthusiasts, they mainly relate to the technical part of the car. This interest arises not just like that, but in order to get acquainted with the device of his car or independent repair or maintenance.
Yes, there are such types of repair that can be made independently, especially since the entire information is available on the Internet.
Preliminary preparation
Now we will touch how the oil is replaced in the power steering hydraulicel in the Mazda car 3. Well, the question with oil is clear everything. For the most part, it has the function of lubricating nodes and aggregates. In GUR, the oil circulates along the hoses and lubricates all the nodes connecting it.
The level of this type of oil can be easily checked and pouring. For this, the expansion barrels where it is contained, has a maximum and minimum marks.
Gur is a hydraulics in prosecution, the function of which is that the driver can easily turn the steering wheel and set the trajectory of the movement. If this system is broken, then the control of the car is not lost, just a person gets harder to turn the steering wheel. This condition is not familiar, and can lead to unpredictable situations.
Check the level of fluid easily, for this there are special marks that we spoke above. In the course of operation of the vehicle, oils are possible in the connecting places of hoses.
Accordingly, the fluid level in this case gradually falls. It is impossible to allow this, since over time it can fully remove and the system will start working dry, which can lead to a pump breakage.
The result of all this will cost a decent amount of money. Pump GUR is given to work after the engine factory. The best optionIf the oil has flowed, there will be an evacuation of the machine.
To spend timely prevention, you need to perform several steps. There should be no difficulties in this. Everything is assessed by visual inspection. Start with the fact that evaluate the oil level in the GUR, and its quality, check the tension of the drive belt, view the hoses for cracks and damage.
How to replace oil in the power steering hydraulicel to Mazda 3?
Replace oil in Gur in Mazda 3 can be 2 ways: partial and complete. In case of partial replacementYou will need only a syringe. The procedure for replacing is as follows: unscrewed the cover in the expansion tank, the whole liquid has dropped in it with a syringe, then the new oil was filled into it to the maximum mark, started the engine and twisted the steering wheel to the right and left until the end position.
Then the wasting engine and after a couple of minutes again we turn and repeat the procedure. It is necessary to do it before that time until your oil brightens.
The following way is full replacement Oil. This option is considered better and practical in Mazda 3 there is a certain algorithm that must be adhered to.
1. You will need to take care of a little vehicle raise. This can be done using an overpass or jack. We only raise the front part of the car in such a way that the front wheels are on weight, and you could easily rotate them manually.
3. Now we understand with the hoses, we will need to decide which of the hoses is responsible for the flow of oil in the tank, and what kind of oil to the pump.
4. When everything is ready, we will need to assemble the plug and drain hose. For the plug fit a piece of hose with a size of 30-50 cm. It will be necessary to work a little with a drain hose. But do not worry, it is also easy to construct it. To do this, you will need 3 things: fitting, adapter and hose about 3 meters. It is such a length that you will need for convenience in work.
5. We start from the hose by which oil is coming. Disconnect it, and we extend using a drain hose, which is directed to the drainage container. In the location of the disconnection in the expansion tank, you need to install the plug. While everything merges, the barrels poured new liquid to maximum.
6. So that the liquid began to merge, you need to twist the steering wheel to right-left to the limit. You do not need to start the engine during this procedure. Naturally, the new oil will go into the system from the tank and it must be gradually adding. This procedure is carried out until the hose does not go light oil. You just pump it across the entire system Mazda 3.
7. We still have no cleaned pump GUR. For this, we carry out the engine breast, but not for a long time (about 1-2 seconds are enough).
8. We return the hoses to the starting position and fill the new oil to the level. All, oil in the GUR system is replaced. After some time, check the level on the expansion tank.
