Good day, dear reader. In this article, I will tell you as simply as possible about the principle of operation of the VAZ 2109 - 2114 generator and about the reasons why the generator does not charge. To make everything clear to an ordinary person who has not studied electrical engineering, I will not delve into the physics of what is happening and use scientific terms, but I will explain everything as they say “on the fingers”. So, let's begin!
The principle of operation of the VAZ 2109 - 2114 generator.
In order to understand why on the VAZ 2109 - 2114 the generator gives little or no charging at all, you need to understand how it works and know how it works.
The generator consists of five main parts shown in the figure below: armature - 5, stator - 6, relay-regulator paired with brushes - 10, diode bridge - 9, body - 3.7.
The principle of operation is as follows:
- from battery to diode bridge (9) there is a positive wire and a diode bridge (9) connects to ground through the body (3,7) generator
- diode bridge voltage (9) served per stator (6) generator and a magnetic field appears in the stator
- when the car starts up, the engine, using a belt drive, turns the rotor (5) generator
- in the rotor (5) rotating in the magnetic field of the generator (6) current appears
- the current is removed from the rotor by brushes (10) and through the relay - the regulator (10) supplied to the car battery.
Failure to comply with any of the points leads to a malfunction of the VAZ 2109 - 2114 generator.
The reasons why the VAZ 2109 - 2114 generator does not charge.
To find the reason why the VAZ 2109 2114 generator does not work or gives poor charging, you need to check for serviceability each of the paragraphs above describing the operation of the generator.
Point one: a plus from the battery does not come to the diode bridge.
The cause of a malfunction in such cases may be the wire itself or the places of its connection with the diode bridge or battery. Try to strip the connection terminals, and if it does not help, then ring the wire.
Bad contact with the negative wire is not considered, since in such a case the engine would not start at all.
Point two: diode bridge and generator stator.
After checking the diode bridge, when it good work, call the stator winding. To do this, select the dialing mode on the multimeter and apply the probes to the first and second contacts of the stator, and then to the first and third.
Point three: alternator belt VAZ 2109 - 2114.
On the carburetor version of the VAZ there was a thin V-belt, and on the injection models there is a wide belt with veins, but the principle of operation does not change from this. Charging may not go well due to belt slippage. Such a malfunction manifests itself strong whistle belt. Also, the belt can begin to whistle when you turn on energy consumers such as headlights, heated glass, stove fan, etc. If you hear belt whistling, try to replace it as soon as possible. this is one of the reasons why the VAZ 2109-2114 generator gives poor charging.
Point four: the anchor of the VAZ 2109-2114 generator.
In the anchor, as in the stator, there should be no breaks. Ring it by attaching the multimeter probes to the brush tracks.
If the anchor does not ring, it should be replaced.
Point five: brushes with a relay - a regulator.
The brushes of the VAZ 2109-2114 generator are over time erased on the armature tracks. If their length is less than 5 millimeters, then they are not able to snuggle tightly to the anchor, thereby not ensuring the charging of the vaz battery.
But it happens that the relay - the regulator fails before the brushes are erased. To check it, you will need:
- 12 volt light bulb
- car battery
- two 1.5 volt batteries
- multiple wires
We connect the light bulb and the battery to the relay-regulator as shown in the figure below. In this case, the lamp should be on.
Now we add two batteries to the circuit, as in the picture below. The light should be off now.
If the light comes on in both cases - the relay - the regulator needs to be changed.
Now you know all the main reasons for the generator malfunction VAZ 2109 - 2114. If you have any questions - leave them in the comments!
The cars are equipped with alternators. Depending on the model and installed on the vehicle electrical equipment Delco Remy CS generators of various capacities CS-121 and CS-130 can be installed. The numbers indicate the outer diameter of the stator plates in millimeters.
CS generators are equipped with an integrated voltage regulator. According to their electrical characteristics Delta's stator, rectifier unit and rotor with slip rings and brushes are similar to those used in earlier generators. Standard pulley and impeller are used, however no test holes are provided.
Relay
An automotive relay is a switch that serves to close and open sections of electrical circuits at certain electrical and non-electrical input values. It is a switch of load currents when a performer, for example, a starter, generator, fan or other structure, consumes more current.
Electrical relay device:
electromagnet - a wire that is wound on a coil with a magnetic material core;
anchor - a special plate that controls the contacts;
switch (switching, opening, closing).
When an electric current passes through the winding of an electric magnet, an electric field arises, pressing the armature to the core, with the help of a pusher moves it, switching the contacts. There are two main types of automatic voltage regulator relays used on Zhiguli 2106 cars.
Non-contact electrical relay-regulator type 121.3702. A fairly new unit used by drivers today, which does not require any settings and additional regulation.
The magnetic electric regulator with the PP-380 index is an old-style device, currently its production is suspended, it is not produced as a part for the VAZ 2106.
The interchangeability of the relay allows, when changing from one type to another, not to perform revision electrical circuit charging the machine.
Before proceeding with the replacement of the voltage relay, you need to check the operability of the regulator. The car should be started, while the crankshaft rotation speed should be 2500-3000 rpm. Then you need to turn off all electricity consumers, except for the ignition, and measure the voltage at the battery terminals with a voltmeter.
Lost, reasons
Charging on the VAZ 2106 disappears for such reasons
1. Wear of generator brushes
2. Failure of the diode bridge of the generator
3. Faulty charging relay
4. Problems with the generator.
Doesn't give generator z-ku
If there is no battery charging in a VAZ 2106 car, then the reason for this may be the brushes in the generator set. They can have extreme wear or stick in the nests of the brush holder.
The alternator does not need to be removed from the vehicle to check the brushes, as the brush assembly is accessible and easy to remove. Worn brushes are either replaced or the entire assembly is changed. The movement of the brushes is checked by pressing. The brushes should easily enter their wells and return easily. Otherwise, the brushes are removed, and the wells are cleaned, and the burrs are also removed from the brushes themselves.
The contact of the generator with the vehicle ground is also checked and, if necessary, restored. Sometimes it is enough to slightly release the fastening of the ground wire and move the wire from side to side, which will be enough to restore reliable contact. For complete control, the wire is removed and the tip is stripped.
Connection
Work on replacing the VAZ 2106 charging lamp relay should be carried out in the following sequence:
We unscrew the 2 fasteners of the charging lamp relay and dismantle the product from the installed studs.
We mark the supply wiring with a marker or felt-tip pen to control the correctness of the reverse connection of the updated product. If the relay is incorrectly connected to the car's power supply network, it stops functioning, which will create an emergency situation due to a sharp increase in the potential difference at the output contacts of the generator device.
We disconnect the wired circuit, change the relay to a serviceable product and carry out the reverse installation.
When testing the charging lamp relay, it is strictly forbidden to make a short circuit between the output elements of the circuit, because this will cause defects in the rectifier unit. Before testing the charging regulator relay, make sure that the tension of the generator belt is optimal. Do not connect other energy resources to the electrical circuit of the generator excitation winding, because the voltage drop across the investigated charging relay VAZ 2106 may exceed the optimal values.
How to check
Checking the voltage regulator VAZ 2106 is performed on a car with a fully charged battery:
Start the car and make the crankshaft speed 2500-3000 rpm.
Disconnect all unnecessary consumers of electricity, with the exception of, of course, the ignition itself.
Measure the voltage at the battery terminals with a voltmeter. It should be equal to 14.2V plus minus tenths.
In case of any significant voltage deviations from the norm, it is necessary to replace the regulator. For this:
Unscrew the two nuts securing the relay and remove the regulator from the studs.
Mark the wires with a marker so as not to confuse them in places during further assembly, and this is important, since if you mix the wires in places, the regulator will stop working and, as a result, the voltage at the generator output will increase.
Having disconnected the wires, replace the regulator with a new one and install in the reverse order of removal.
First of all, it is necessary to check the integrity of fuses No. 9 and 10, as well as their reliable fastening in the fuse box.
In addition, if the fuses seem to be working properly (the fuse has not blown), the fuse may be defective. The fact is that despite the fact that the insert has not blown, the fuse is nevertheless faulty. From a long service life, the tops of the fuses at the entrance to their nests are frayed. This can be determined visually. To do this, the fuse is removed from its slots and the upper and lower parts of the fuse are inspected, which are a continuation of the fuse link. Visually, the worn edge of the fuse will be immediately visible in the form of a circle, like a trace from the socket where it is inserted. These fuses are replaced and the charging is checked again.If, after replacing the fuses, there is still no battery charging on the VAZ 2106, then the troubleshooting should be continued.
Next, you need to check the integrity of the generator drive belt and its tension. If the belt is not torn and its tension is correct, then you need to check the condition of the drive pulleys. When the inner surface of the pulleys is worn out, the alternator belt simply begins to slip, which will also contribute to an incomplete charge of the battery, or there will be no charging at all. You can check this by visually looking at the inside of the pulley. If it shines, then the belt is slipping and it was he who polished the inside of the pulley.
Such a pulley must be replaced together with the drive belt.The next reason why the battery may not be charged is poor contact at the battery terminals, or their oxidation. Unreliable contact is tightened, and the oxidized terminals must be treated with a solution of soda and water. Soda neutralizes the oxide, after which the terminal must be rinsed with water and wiped well. To ensure that residues of oxide are removed with a fine sandpaper. Then the terminal must be lubricated, for example, with Litol 24 grease. A similar operation must be done with the terminals themselves. You do not need to peel the terminals or scrape them with a knife. They are very malleable, since they are cast from lead and three or four such procedures will significantly reduce their diameter, which will make it impossible to tighten the terminals properly, which means there will be no reliable contact. Entrust this question to soda and it will perfectly clean the terminals of oxide.
For oxidation, it is worth checking the contact points of the terminals on the generator, which also need to be freed from oxide.
If there is no battery charging in a VAZ 2106 car, then the reason for this may be the brushes in the generator set... They can have extreme wear or stick in the nests of the brush holder.
The alternator does not need to be removed from the vehicle to check the brushes, as the brush assembly is accessible and easy to remove. Worn brushes are either replaced or the entire assembly is changed. The movement of the brushes is checked by pressing. The brushes should easily enter their wells and return easily. Otherwise, the brushes are removed, and the wells are cleaned, and the burrs are also removed from the brushes themselves.
The contact of the generator with the vehicle ground is also checked and, if necessary, restored. Sometimes it is enough to slightly release the fastening of the ground wire and move the wire from side to side, which will be enough to restore reliable contact. For complete control, the wire is removed and the tip is stripped.
Possible malfunctions of the VAZ 2106 generator
The generator itself may have the following malfunctions:- Damage to the diode bridge (popularly - "horseshoe")
- Malfunction of the stator winding - turn-to-turn circuit, short circuit to case or internal open circuit
- Fault in the rotor field winding, with symptoms similar to those in the stator winding. In addition, there may be a lot of wear on the slip rings, which violates their reliable contact with the brushes.
If, when checking, the generator output is normal voltage 13.5-14.2V, and the battery is not charging, then it is necessary to check the integrity of the wire going from the generator to the battery.
The lack of charging can also be affected by a malfunction of the relay - regulator, as well as its poor contact with the "ground".
Read also, other reviews 
Sooner or later, the VAZ-2114 generator will stop giving the necessary charging, which will create a lot of troubles and problems. Simply, at one point, the car may not start, because this unit has not been properly charged. This article describes how to find and fix a malfunction in the form of an incomplete charging of the generator.
Video about the reasons for the lack of charging on the battery
The video will tell you how to disassemble and repair a car generator, and also tells about some of the subtleties and nuances.
Generator device
Before determining the malfunction of the generator, it is necessary to have some understanding of its design and structure. So, let's look at what basic parts it consists of.
On models of the VAZ 2113-2114-2115 family, a generator marked 37.3701 is installed.
Generator device VAZ
Generator 37.3701: 1 - cover from the side of slip rings; 2 - rectifier unit; 3 - valve of the rectifier unit; 4 - screw for fixing the rectifier unit; 5 - contact ring; 6 - rear ball bearing; 7 - capacitor; 8 - rotor shaft; 9 - output "30" of the generator; 10 - output "61" of the generator; 11 - voltage regulator; 12 - output "B" of the voltage regulator; 13 - brush; 14 - hairpin for fastening the generator to the tensioning bar; 15 - a pulley with a fan; 16 - pole tip of the rotor; 17 - distance sleeve; 18 - front ball bearing; 19 - cover from the drive side; 20 - rotor winding; 21 - stator; 22 - stator winding; 23 - pole tip of the rotor; 24 - buffer sleeve; 25 - bushing; 26 - clamping sleeve
Now, let's look at the construction of the generator in a disassembled state.
Generator disassembly diagram
Details of the generator 37.3701: 1 - capacitor; 2 - voltage regulator assembled with a brush holder; 3 - block for outputting additional diodes; 4 - insulating bushings; 5 - rectifier unit; 6 - contact bolt; 7 - stator; 8 - rotor; 9 - distance sleeve; 10 - inner washer for fastening the bearing; 11 - cover from the drive side; 12 - pulley; 13 - outer washer of bearing fastening; 14 - coupling bolt; 15 - front rotor ball bearing; 16 - bushing; 17 - cover from the side of slip rings; 18 - buffer sleeve; 19 - clamping sleeve.
Why the generator won't charge (main reasons)
If the generator is no longer providing the proper charge for battery as well as in on-board network when the engines are running, there are only two reasons for this. Let's consider which ones.
Overloading the device
Additional equipment draws energy. This is what overloading a generator looks like
This effect is often caused by the connection of additional lighting and other devices with high energy requirements. At the same time, the factory generator does not cope with its task and begins to lose efficiency, and ultimately may fail.
Battery and generator mismatch
Inconsistency between battery and generator
When installing additional equipment, many motorists make an irreparable mistake and install a battery of greater power on their "iron horse", while not increasing the generator's power. A failure of the power characteristics between the nodes leads to the fact that the generator cannot provide proper charging of the battery, subsequently the performance of the former decreases.
troubleshooting
To find a malfunction, you have to dig into the electrical part of the car. There is nothing difficult here, but you have to sweat and learn some design features auto electricians. Let's consider what reasons can serve as poor charging and what you should pay special attention to:
- Weak contact connections.
- Breaks in a part of the winding.
- Short circuit on the rotor.
- Breakdowns in the mechanics.
- Short circuit of the stator.
What to do if there is no required voltage (solution methods for VAZ-2114)
Basically, the methods for solving the problem are banal -. But, due to the high cost of the part, most motorists are trying to repair the unit. So, let's consider possible solutions to the problem of incomplete charging or lack of charging from the generator.
Weak contact connections
Damage to the contact group leads to charging problems
If the contacts are loose, this may be due to dirt or corrosion. To eliminate problems, you must clean them with a sharp object or special solution. Suitable for lubrication and protection of external contacts copper paste ... The internal contact connection is difficult to protect, so they are simply cleaned and installed in the seat.
Breaks in a part of the winding
Measurement for detecting problems with the winding
Winding breaks are usually treated by replacing the winding. As practice shows, rewinding this node is not cost-effective, so motorists are looking for an alternative, which becomes a supported part.
Short circuit on the rotor
Diagnostic operations on the rotor
A short circuit in the on-board network, which ended on the rotor, can be treated by replacing the faulty part, but still, most motorists agree that the generator will have to be replaced.
Breakdowns in the mechanics
Deformation of the generator shaft is one of the mechanical failures
A breakdown of a mechanical part is usually not treated, and the damaged part is replaced with a new one. This is considered the most the best option resolving the issue. In terms of price, it may seem a little expensive, but cheaper than changing the generator assembly.
Stator short circuit
Diagnostic operations for rotor performance
A short circuit of the stator can also be treated by replacing a part or installing a new generator on a car. This is necessary so that the effect does not repeat itself, and the stator does not have to be changed again. When choosing a new spare part, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the material: "".
Video about troubleshooting in a situation where the generator does not charge
conclusions
Finding and eliminating the reasons that the generator on the VAZ-2114 stopped giving charging is not so easy as it seems at first glance, but still really with your own hands. Not every motorist can fix the problems on their own, so it is recommended to contact a car service that can fix the problems.
Frequent malfunction of the "power supply system" is simple - the generator does not charge or "wakes up" only at high speeds. Domestic generators are famous for this, both due to the general low quality of workmanship and due to a number of design defects. Faced with the problem of undercharging the battery, it is worthwhile to figure out the causes of the problem - whoever happened to stay on the track with a dead battery and missing charging, will confirm that this is not good enough.
Automotive generator design
Any generator, with the exception of DC models, produces multi-phase alternating current - three or four phases depending on power. Why such a complication, if only D.C.? The fact is that a multiphase alternator has a higher efficiency, and most importantly, the current is removed not by brushes from the rotating rotor, but from the stationary stator windings. Accordingly, there are no problems with the burnout of the collector (the current in it is much less than that produced by the generator), and the collector itself is simpler - two rings, and not a set of isolated lamellas.
A diode bridge is used to convert polyphase AC to DC. At least it contains several powerful diodes in twice the number of phases - they are busy rectifying the current. Some generators also have additional diodes that provide power to the relay-regulator.
The relay-regulator itself has long been no longer a relay: instead of an electromechanical device, they are used to control generators electronic circuits, but the name "relay-regulator" is already firmly established behind it. They act in the same way - by changing the current in the rotor winding (and the magnetic field in the core), they increase or decrease the voltage at the generator output so as to keep it within the specified range from 13.7 V (old low-power generators) to 14.5 V (modern generators designed for high power consumption of the on-board network and accelerated battery charging). Modern generators are no longer independent units, but are integrated with on-board controllers: in them, the ECU controls the voltage, raising it after starting the engine to accelerate battery charging, and then reducing it to normal.
The relay-regulator is powered from the external network (Zhiguli, most foreign cars) and from the generator itself through additional bridge diodes (front-wheel drive VAZs). The second circuit is considered less reliable, but it has a distinctive ability to self-excite due to the residual magnetization of the rotor - a generator spinned up to high revs, produces enough current to trigger the relay-regulator and bring it to the operating mode.
Possible causes of malfunctions
Wear of brushes
If the generator does not charge the battery, then the first thing that comes to mind on cars with sufficient mileage is the wear of the brushes. There are few purely mechanical components in generators that affect its performance - and the brushes constantly rubbing against the collector are erased.
With wear, the contact deteriorates, and accordingly the current in the rotor winding also drops. At first, the generator gives little charge at low revs, "waking up" after overgassing, then it fails completely. The brushes themselves can be like separate node, and interlocked with a relay-regulator. 
Removing the brush assembly from the generator, you can easily feel how far it can be extended so that the elasticity of the springs is no longer felt - this will be the residual working length of the longest brush. Please note that more often the brushes wear out unevenly: from the side of the cover, where dirt and brush wear products accumulate, the brush wears off faster. This is also noticeable by the presence of a groove on one of the rings.
The groove itself is not so terrible if it is rubbed evenly. Here is a wavy one with sharp changes in diameter - a direct indication of replacing slip rings or rotor assembly.
On foreign generators, there is a monoblock design, when the diode bridge, the relay-regulator, and the brush assembly are one whole. Replacing such a monoblock is not cheap, and it's stupid to do it when some brushes are worn out. Therefore, they are re-soldered, selecting suitable ones from domestic generators or power tools.
Break
In the rotor, in addition to the wear of the slip rings, there are few probable causes of the malfunction - relatively small currents do not allow the winding to burn out, a wire breakage occurs much more often at the junction with the collector. The rotor is checked by a tester: first, the resistance between the rings of the collector is measured, then between the rings and the "mass". In the first case, the resistance is several ohms, in the second - "infinite" (there is no short circuit of the winding to the case). 
Stator and diode bridge
Another reason why the generator does not charge is the most loaded nodes: the stator and the diode bridge. With constant overloads, they overheat, which for the stator is fraught with destruction of insulation, a short circuit to the case and a fire in the winding, and for a diode bridge - failure or breakdown of diodes. Outwardly, the symptoms are similar - the power of the generator drops (one or two phases do not work), or the generator fails completely.
The stator is evaluated first of all externally - there should be no darkening of the insulation and the smell of burning. Then, using a tester, the resistance of each phase winding and the absence of its short circuits to the case are checked.
With the help of a battery and a test lamp - in testers, the voltage during testing is low, and a punctured diode can be skipped in this way. A 12-volt 40-60 W bulb and a battery are more reliable in this regard.
The test circuit is simple: "minus" from the battery is connected to the power terminal of the diode bridge, "plus" through the lamp is alternately connected to each terminal of the bridge to which the stator windings were connected. If the light is off on one of the phases, the diodes are burnt out. Next, we change the polarity of the connection - in this case, the light does not light up on any phase, otherwise it will indicate a breakdown of the diodes in the bridge. We repeat the procedure by connecting the "mass" already to the "horseshoe" of the diode bridge - the lamp does not light up. When reconnected, it should be lit on all phases. Additional diodes are checked from the stator inputs to the terminal going to the relay controller.
In this case, malfunctions of the stator and the diode bridge are closely related: punctured power diodes will lead to overheating of the winding in the corresponding phase, since it is short-circuited.
Relay regulator problem
The procedure is design dependent. External (like on old "Zhiguli") in the absence of charging is easy to check - making sure that current flows to the brush assembly after turning on the ignition (by connecting an ammeter in the circuit between terminal 67 of the relay-regulator and the brush assembly). No current - change the "chocolate".
If the relay-regulator is combined with the brush assembly, then you can measure the voltage on the brushes after turning on the ignition: it may be less than the onboard one, but it must be. Do not check the relay-regulators without load: the output voltage in this case may be, but when the load is applied to the faulty relay-regulator, it will drop sharply, and the working unit will have to be recognized as defective.
The lack of current in the stator winding will not necessarily be the result of a malfunction of the relay-regulator itself. Remember what we wrote above about relay power circuits. In generators with additional diodes, it comes from the generator itself, on an idle motor, only the current through the control lamp goes to the relay-regulator. Such generators are easy to distinguish - only one low-current terminal from the control lamp is suitable for them. The relay is considered defective if the additional diodes in the bridge are in good order.
In generators with external excitation, at least two low-current inputs are required - one from the control lamp, the second - "plus" ignition. This is a very common circuit on Asian generators, where the pinout of the low-current connector can be easily deciphered by the marking (L - control lamp, IG - ignition). In generators of this type, after the ignition is turned on, the voltage at the IG terminal is always present, otherwise the generator will not be excited.
Video: The reason for the lack of battery charge on the VAZ 2101. How to find
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