Mass production "Zaporozhets" ZAZ-965who has found the nickname "Humpback", It began in November 1960, and by the end of the year the plant released about one and a half thousand cars. Two years later, the plant upgraded the car, equipping it with a more powerful 27-strong engine with a working volume of 0.887 liters. The car was very benevolently met both the townspeople and rural residents. She was strong enough, had good permeability, possessed good maintainability - it was possible to eliminate breakdowns independently and almost without a special tool.
Quite a lot turned out to have microllers and disadvantages. Among them and low comfort, and high noise due to the operation of a powerful fan of the cooling system and the ribs of the cylinders, and not enough high resource. It would probably be possible to bring a compact and sympathetic ZAZ-965 by consistent improvements to the perfect state, but Zaporizhia designers wanted, apparently, create a car no worse than the cars of the Volga auto plant. As a prototype of the new "Zaporozhets", the experts of the history of domestic auto grounds are called French microline SIMCA 1000.The first submitted to the public in 1961.
Serial release of the 966th began in 1967. New model With a completely new body, it was sick compared to 965th by 120 kg. The rear wheel suspension was spring, front-torsion, with additional springs. The car had an autonomous heater, wild wheels, as well as a benzobac and trunk located in the front of the machine.
The car was repeatedly modernized, but the modifications only differed slightly from each other. The most recent car with the title "Zaporozhets" was ZAZ-968m, which became the most common model of the Zaporizhia Automobile Plant.
ZAZ 968m (1979 - 1998)
photo ZAZ-968M
The car in which three passengers and the driver can accommodate, has a closed two-door all-metal carrier body. Front seats separate, with longitudinal adjustment and device for changing the corner of the backrest. The power unit (engine and gearbox with the main transmission), located in the rear bodice compartment, is easily accessible for inspection and adjustments. Working volume engine 1,197 l; Depending on the modification, it had a power of 40, 45 or 50 hp. The maximum vehicle speed was 118, 123 or 130 km / h, respectively. In the country mode of movement, fuel consumption was 7.4 - 7.8 l / 100 km.
Engine ZAT-968M
Engine car - carburetor, four-stroke, topless, air cooling, with V-shaped cylinders. Carter crankshaft cast from magnesium alloy; Cylinders are removable, cast-iron, with a deeply finned surface. Pistons - aluminum, tinted. The crankshaft is cast from high strength cast iron and balanced assembly with flywheel, clutch and centrifuge housing. The head of the cylinders (total by two cylinders) with developed ribs of cooling cast from aluminum alloy.
photography ZAZ-968M Engine
Gas distribution mechanism - Verneklapanny, it consists of gears, camshaft and balance sheet mechanism, as well as pushers, rods, rocker and valves. Engine cooling system - air. Air discharge is carried out by an axial fan, which consists of a guide machine, distinguished to the shovels, in which the ocker is provided for the installation of the generator fixed by three bolts. At the front end of the generator shaft, the fan drive pulley is fixed, on the rear - the fan impeller. Generator drive - with a clinoid belt from pulley on the crankshaft of the engine. Air intake for cooling the motor is carried out through the grid in the hood of the engine compartment, the additional ventilation of the engine compartment is made through the slots in the sidewalls of the body.
The fuel tank is set beyond the back of the rear seat. By the way, spare wheel Also accommodated in motor compartment car. Fuel pump - Diaphragm, interchangeable with a pump of the vase engine. Carburetor type K-133 (for a 40-strong motor) or DAAZ-2101-20 (for a motor in 50 hp).
The grip of one-piece, with a damper mounted along with the driven disk to one unbalanced node. Hydraulic clutch drive. GAL-968M gearbox Mechanical, three-way, four-stage - with four transmissions "Forward" and one "back". The checkpoint is located in one crankcase with the main transmission and differential.
photography front suspension ZAZ-968M
Front suspension Independent, lever-torsion, cordless, with additional springs installed on telescopic hydraulic shock absorbers. The basis of the suspension is the axis consisting of a pair of steel pipes connected by brackets. In each pipe is located one torsion consisting of five steel plates; At the ends of the torsion, the levers to which swivel fists are connected with ball fingers. In the latter nests, ball hinges are fixed, which provide simultaneous twist of the fist and its movement in the swivel plane. The top ball finger serves as a support of the shock absorber, at the upper part of its part, the shock absorber is attached to the mudguard front wheel. The shock absorber has an extra spring, working in parallel with the torsion. 
photograph of the rear suspension ZAZ-968M
Rear suspension Independent car, spring, double-handed. Steel suspension lever, stamped, cooked from two parts. It is attached to the floor of the body using a pair of brackets. The elastic element of the suspension consists of a spring and telescopic shock absorber. Wheels of the car steel, stamped - each has a disk and a rim welded with a landing diameter of 13 inches. The wheels are attached to the front hubs and rear brake drums with four studs using nuts with conical support surfaces.
Brake mechanisms - Drum type with floating boats and a device for maintaining a constant gap between the drum and pads. The drive of the brakes of all wheels is hydraulic, from the foot pedal, separate on the front and rear wheels; The drive of the parking brake acting on the rear wheels is mechanical, from the handle.
Steering It consists of a steering gearbox (a global worm with a double roller), a pendulum lever and steering. The shaft of the steering mechanism is with an energy absorbing element.
Building car body, all-metal, two-door. All of all-in-block connections of body parts are formed by contact welding. In some places, the compound is reinforced with arc and gas welding. In front of the body, there is a trunk with a lockable from the inside with a lid.
Seats are located in two rows. Front seats separate, mobile, with the possibility of adjustment in accordance with the growth of the driver and passenger. The rear consists of a pillow and back. The body is equipped with a rear view mirror, sun visors, an independent heating installation and aprons of the rear wheels.
Two-footed doors, stamped. Inside each mounted lock and windows, and the swivel and hydrochny glass are installed. Windshield made of safe "Triplex", rear - tempered. The hood of the engine compartment is suspended on two hinges, in the closed position the hood is fixed with an internal lock. The hood of the trunk is inserted on two hinged quad-star loops. ZAZ-968M Equipped with a heating installation that works independently of the car engine, which allows it to be used when the motor is not working.
photo ZAZ-968M
photo ZAZ-968M
photo ZAZ-968M
ZAZ-968M Pickup.
photo ZAZ-968MP
During 1990-1992, an unusual modification of the basic ZAZ 968m - Pickup ZAZ 968PM was produced. Immediately it should be noted that the pickups of a similar design were made by ZAZ, as with any automobile plant, always for their intra-water supplies (a characteristic example - ZAZ-965P). However, the ZAZ-968MP - It is not different as the plant's attempt to offer the market at the beginning of the 90s of the twentieth century as a delivering machine its intra-water pickup.
In fact, the ZAZ 968MP was made in precipitated-bypass technology - at the folded or even conditioned (depending on the value of the demand for pickups in a specific period) of the body of ZAZ 968m, the rear of the cab was cut off and the back wall with the window was welded behind the front seats. Backseat Not put, the resulting niche and was a cargo compartment. To prevent excessive loss of body rigidity, the top compartment is increased by welding the P-shaped round tube, and over the standard floor around the perimeter of the cargo compartment, the corner profile was welded, which in turn served as the base for the cargo floor of 10-mm plywood. The body prepared in this way was returned to the conveyor and the usual way was to color and subsequent assembly. It was used from the original parts, perhaps only the awning strengthened at the top of the cargo compartment over its sides. Pickup had a small load capacity and was uncomfortable - there were no folding sides or doors.
It is difficult to say whether there were any certain preferences from the automotive factory in terms of coloring these pickups, but most of the cars from among the students were painted in white color And only one car was light blue. According to some reports, about 2500 Pickups ZAZ 968MP were released.
In addition, it was necessary to meet the mention of another serial modification of the pickup - ZAZ 968MV. Her differences from ZAZ 968MM were set to the installation of a tubular luggage shelf on the hood cover (the shelf was calculated on 50 kg of cargo) and the presence of a tent with a rosted tarpaulin canopy, tightened to the collapsible tubular frame.
ZAZ 968m Modifications
Few people know that ZAZ released the cargo modification ZAZ-968M. True, it was possible to see these cars only on the territory of the automobile plant or not far from it - in essence, these were intrafation car autocars for the transportation of parts and nodes between the workshops. The car chain had an elongated body with two cargo compartments - front, in a standard trunk, and in the middle - between the front seats and the engine compartment. By the way, in the city of Zaporizhia, in contrast to other cccp cities, ZAZ-968M cars were widely used as police, traveling and service. 
The first design work on the creation of a new generation car instead of the released 968 began in 1970. Dozens of layout options, hundreds of models and layouts, thousands of kilometers traveled by experimental samples of experienced machines - all this allowed to present the public as an exhibit of the USSR of the USSR a fundamentally new compact front-wheel drive car ZAZ-1102 "Tavria". Some, however, argued that this distinctive design of the ZAZ was also made by the "based" of the Italian car - this time the prototype was called Fiat 127, the serial-produced concern since 1971. The serial release of "Tavria" was deployed in 1988. For some time, "Tavria" and "Zaporozhets" were produced at the same time, but in the late 1990s, the production of a morally obsolete veteran car was discontinued.
The main transfer
It is possible to remove the semi-axis, only draining the oil from the main transmission crankcase, since the oil level is above the edge of the opening closed by the semi-axis. Then, removing the case and disconnecting the flange from the cardan hinge, remove the semi-axes from the gear. At the same time it is necessary to rotate the halfline so that her The finger accepted a horizontal position in order to avoid drops of superstars.
The installation of the semi-axis must be carried out during its horizontal position - otherwise the case will be done, and its bin does not evenly fall into place. If there is no possibility to use the overpass or pit, you can raise one side of the car, remove the wheel, put some support under the brake drum and lower the car to the position when the bottom of the car will be fixed in parallel.
We have not yet been convinced that when installing the cover does not need to rush. After all, if it is revealed to flow, then the cover will be corrected while flowing of It is oil.
The flow may occur due to insufficient tension of the lid, pressing the cheek's bin. Sometimes enough just tighten the three nuts, but if the lid reached the stop, and there is no normal clutch, it is necessary to put a ring with an outer diameter of 128 under the cover of the corresponding thickness mM. and inner 108. mM. or pave the ring from the wire in insulation "with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm.
Damaged covers are better replaced by new ones. If there are no, that It can be repaired old with the help of a copy or polyethylene package invested in the case.
Changing the cover, according to the operation manual, is made after the flange removal from the semi-axis. However, it is not always possible to remove it "light blows of the hammer". Most often it will require to fill kerosene in the articulation of the flange with a semi-axle and to withstand so a few hours. If it does not help, you need to heat the flange of the solder lamp.
There is another way to remove the cover. Put the semi-axes vertically, feet on the flange and pull the cover up for the borders. When the case is free from the cauldron, it will calmly pass through the fingers of the semi-axis. Naturally, if the casing of the gland is glued (in the release cars after the second quarter of 1975), the glue must be pre-dissolved in acetone.
However, there are cases when shlind connection Semi-axes with flange cans. This manifests itself in the knocks when moving the car. Car lubers use several ways to restore immobility of the compound. The most effective is to glue with epoxy glue, adding steel sawdust to it. The glue is applied on the surface of both parts and is kept after the assembly. When disassembling the compound
requires the use of a soldering lamp.
Very effectively protects the seal of the cover of the bubbler, which began to install on the "Zaporozhets" from the beginning of 1982. We really advise you to install it on the semi-axes of older machines. If you manage to acquire a miseler (part number 968m-2403094), it is installed on the semi-axes so that the distance from the end of the semi-axis (from the side of the finger) to the outer edge of the mudovetra, the value of 199 + - 2 is recommended by the factory mm.
If it was not possible to purchase a regular filler, you can use the tips of the experienced and buy Vanutuz (rubber cap, used to clean the drains in the shells and baths). The hole is made in the vehicle to wear it on a half-one with tension. The edges of the cup of cantoz must cover the protruding part of the protective cover of the semi-axle.
Disassembly and assembly of the cardan hinge in stationary conditions is not of great difficulty. We were convinced that in the field conditions, this work can be carried out successfully (maybe here it pushes the hopelessness of the situation).
We stopped on a lost country road after it became unbearably listening to the knocks in the area of \u200b\u200bthe rear wheels. The reason was discovered quickly: when standing wheel The floor flange turned the degrees to 90. After removing the cardan hinge, they found that the housing of the bearing was cut and all the needles fell out of it. Crosses and bearings we had with you.
Instead of the workbench, the tripod was very suitable, which we always have with you to maintain the raised side of the car. This time we did not take advantage of the tripod in direct purpose, since the cardan assembly can be pulled out from the hub of the rear wheel, without raising the car. It turned out that the hinge housing is just running the hole in the tripod for the support rod. Putting a fork on the surface of a tripod, began to knock the hammer along the end of the opposite bearing through the head key head. Everything was perfectly shifted in one direction. Naturally, all the shut-off half rings were removed. The rest was the case of technology.
Uniquely, do not forget to lubricate bearings when repairing. To do this, you can use the channels of the crosses, in which we consistently pour the oil before installing it into the bearing.
ZAZ 968. FRONT SUSPENSION
The most common work associated with partial disassembly of the suspension is replacing the shock absorber or its rubber bushings, replacing the liners swivel kulakov, torsion and springs shock absorber.
When changing the shock absorber, it is necessary to outline the front wheel (for a better approach you can remove the wheel), release the nut of the upper mounting of the shock absorber, to fray and unscrew the key 24 mM. Ball finger nut. Having been following the bottom of the shock absorber, turn it so that the ear will come out of the finger. In this position you can change the sleeve. On some copies of cars, remove the ear shock absorber from the finger due tothe outdoor distance from it to the wall of the mudguard. In such cases, you can do the minimum of additional works: unscrew the nut (the tight clamp of the suspension lever, remove its screw and, hitting the hammer from the inside along the top of the fist, push the finger relative to the lever.
Changing the ball hinge liners will require more detailed disassembly. Here you need to sleep drum, pads, brake shield, replete threaded corks of fist hinges. If you need to change only the outer liner of the ball finger, then you do not need to disconnect it from the lever.
The dismantling of the swivel fist is starting with the removal of the wheel, then disconnect from the swivel fist, the shock absorber (lower part), release the screws of the terminal clamp of the levers. Heavy hammers on the cam push the fist with their fingers from the lever clamps. In the end, it is necessary to inspire that the fist does not hover on the brake hose. After the liberation of the fist, it can be temporarily suspended for a finger with a screwdriver, looking at his ear shock absorber.
The suspension lever is fixed from the axial movement by a bolt, which is part of the Torsion Lunka. Therefore, first of all, you need to unscrew the lock nut, unscrew the stop bolt with a special key-hexagon 8x17 mm. Sometimes the bolt "grabbed" that his inner hexagon is broken. In such cases, the bolt turns out for the outer surface with a gas key.
When the lever is pulled out of the pipe, an end torsion is exposed. If the torsion needs to be changed, then it is also necessary to free the lever from the opposite side and twist the average stoned pipe bolt. When removing a torsion from the pipe, the oil is spoiled, so under the ends of the pipes it is necessary to substitute the drain jar.
Tyrsiras usually take out passage for the end. But there are cases, especially when there is no lubricant or breakdown, Torsion Sheet when removing the torsion is very hard. It is necessary to try to knock on the other side, and then through the paint to train the torsion in a more fuel side. Torcion installation is starting from dragging it through a square hole of the middle support. Then you need to wrap the locking bolt until you stop and knock on the end of the torsion so that the bolt falls into the well. After screwing the locking bolt again until the end, knock on the opposite end of the Torsion and finally tighten the bolt. Further assembly does not cause difficulties.
After disassembly of ball joints or removal of the suspension levers, it is necessary to adjust the collapse and the convergence of the front wheels. The collapse is easily checked on a plumb. The distance from the thread of the plumb to the top and bottom edges of the wheel rim is measured. The difference must be within 1-5 mm.
If the value of the collapse does not fit into normal, it is necessary to adjust, rotating the ball fingers with a weakened screws of terminal clamps. The upper finger rotate the same key as for locking bolts of torsion. Previously, you must loosen the fastening nut on the finger of the shock absorber.
The bottom finger is rotated by the key 12 mM. Lyasy. It should be remembered that the finger is extended outside when we rotate it counterclockwise (if you look from the mudguard).
However, there are often cases when the collapse of the wheels need to be increased, and there is no opportunity for this. In other words, the adjustment fingers occupy an extreme position in the levers. This, by the way, the most common reason to remove you from the maintenance station, if you decide to make a "gathering cam" there.
What is the reason for the impossibility of installing the necessary collapse? The first is the deformation of the suspension levers. It is determined when the rotary fist is removed by measuring the distance between the ends of the upper and lower levers. The bottom lever must be for the level of the upper 10 ± 2 mm. The second reason is the wear of the joints of the swivel fists and above all the inner ball surface of the finger and the inner liner. With equal wear of the upper and lower hinges, the collapse should not change. It decreases from greater wear of the lower hinge. Especially bad when, in the absence of lubricant, the inner liner is destroyed and the surface of the finger and the body of the inner part of the swivel fist is exposed to the intensive wear.
Therefore, the installation of new liners, as many make it, may not give an effective result without replacing the fingers themselves. In the case of a significant wear of the inner surface of the fist, it may be necessary to change it. When changing the internal liners you need to carefully clean planting placeSince the remains of the old liner are often taken for the surface of the fist.
But what to do if the collapse still fails to lead to normal? The first way is to lengthen the screw groove with a file with a file. Sometimes it is enough to do it on the upper finger, sometimes also on the bottom. And only in extreme cases should be sewed to the new well in the torsion.
And one more advice: if you can not cope with the negative collapse on one wheel, then at least reduce the collapse on the other.
Alignment we measure the rail-bought in the store with a spring-loaded end and a scale that insert between the wheels in front and rear. Thanks to two layers on the edges of the rails 180 mM.the perpendicularity of the racks of the wheels and the same level from the Earth is ensured. The difference in the size of the back and front of the wheels should be within 1-3 mm. If necessary, adjust the converse of the rotation of the transverse thrust.
Naturally, operations for measuring the collapse and convergence should be carried out on an even, horizontal site.
For maintenance The front suspension ZAZ-968M should be taken care when tightening the filler plugs
touring pipes. Cutting the threads in the pipes do not stand anything because
her Very little in the cylindrical wall.
ZAZ 968. REAR SUSPENSION
Remove the rear suspension from the car is easy. The lever under-hungry holds on two silent block bolts and the lower end of the shock absorber. But the lever is suitable for the rear brake drive pipeline and the parking brake cable to be disconnected.
The tip of the parking brake cable is removed from the finger of the expansion lever (scratching a finger) on the brake shield, and the cable shell is removed from the slot of the thrust wall, having previously dispersed the locking plate.
The tube coming from the working brake cylinder is disconnected from the hose, freeing the cape nut of the same persistent walls Parking brake cable shell. Naturally, the disconnection of the pipeline will require then pumping the brake system to remove air.
Is it possible to do without this operation? There is a way to avoid separation of the pipeline, if when removing the suspension lever remove Bearing housing and brake shield suspend on the pipeline. And to disconnect the pipeline from the lever, in a stubborn wall cut through with a knife groove, similar to the rope parking brakes. In order for the pipeline does not jump out of groove It can be born to the stubborn wall with wire.
Removing the silent block bolts, it should be borne in mind that the extreme bolt pull out of the bracket is not possible, since its head is located next to the side wall of the bottom at the threshold. Therefore, you need to disconnect the lever along with the bracket. Key 17. mM. We turn over 2 bolts outside and the nut under the rear seat.
Often, especially when the car is operated in winter, it is difficult to extract the housing of the bearings from the hole of the lever. They tightly grow out due to rust formed from the action of salt, which winter road sprinkles.
Here you do not need to rush to irretrievably not damaged de hoists. First you need to silent the housing by blowing the hammer through you-kolotku. Strikes should be applied alternately on the right and left
proposals of the flange of the case. When the body is stronned from the spot
and it will turn a little (at least from shocks), we score a large screwdriver into the hull and brake shield. Further blows on the body from the inside (through the hole of the lever), they finally knock out the housing. Before installing, it is necessary to remove rust with lubricate the surface with lithol.
After Assembling the suspension, and sometimes simply as you need adjusting the position of the rear wheels. It forces this operation to force the intensive wear of the rear wheel tire.
Recall a way to regulate the convergence of the rear wheels. Adjust each wheel separately by clogging the gasket under the vertical shelf of the bracket: internal - to increase the convergence and external - to reduce. Gasket make from steel strip 60x30x1 mm, in which the grooves cut down the depth of 22 mM. Under bolt M12. One such gasket gives a change in convergence (the difference of distances from the axis of the car to the front and rear points of the wheel tire) 0.5 mm.
Since the axis of the car is difficult to determine, it is replaced by parallel transfer to the outer side of the car tensioned threads relating to the sidewall of the front wheel tire and through the spacer. The spacer must have a thickness equal to half the track of the front and rear wheels. Then the distance between the thread and the front of the sidewall rear wheel is measured. The convergence is considered normal if the measured distance differs from the thickness of the spacer by ± 2 mm.
As for the collapse of the rear wheels, it should be installed in the correct assembly and compliance with all parts of the drawings. However, during operation, the collapse may change under the influence of the deformation of the lever and the supporting surface of the body, as a rule, towards the negative.
According to our observations and according to the results of mapping data on the rear-wheel drive vehicles produced earlier abroad, the collapse of the rear wheels should be 0 ° ± 1 °. Based on this, the difference between the distance to the thread of the plumb from the top to the bottom edge of the wheel rim ± 5 mM. can be considered the norm. Provided that such a difference between the left and right wheels will not exceed 2.5 mm.
What to do if the collapse is greater than the norm? Small compensation up to 2 mM. You can achieve, putting the gaskets under the horizontal shelf of the lever bracket. At the same time, it may have to cut a bit of holes in the body under the horizontal bolt of the hinge. If you need to remove the larger collapse, you will have to or change the lever, or make it a hinge. We had a case when the negative collapse was 14 mm, And after changing the lever - 3 mm.
ZAZ 968. STEERING
Most often, in the steering control, you have to disassemble steering hinges.
Oarsloving and unscrewing the fingers nuts, it is necessary to extract them from the tapered holes. Usually the conical connection of the finger with the hole is so dense that there is no effort to pull the finger. The fastest crawling is the application of harsh blows with a hammer on the side surface of the part, where the finger is pressed.
However, that the finger falls away from shocks, you need a certain skill, and at first it may not work. Then it is necessary to apply fixtures.
Facility to explore the fingers of the "Zaporozhtsev" on sale, but there is for the "Moskvich". This is a cylinder with a cut side surface, which has a seal from one end, and with another -vint. The device is releasing in the gap between the traction and the hinge; The screw is supplied to the end of the finger and when rotating the key squeezes it.
Such a device, the fingers of the Zaporozhets are normally raised, except for the middle fingers of the steering bump and the pendulum lever, where the device does not enter.
You can prescribe a finger with a clamp, after removing the plug from the hinge. In this case, from pressing the screw to the end of the finger, the latter falls immediately through two adjacent parts. To remove the plug of the hinge, you need to release a locking ring. It is constantly pressed the spring of the hinge to the rice of the groove, so it takesFig. fifteen. Extraction of the shut-off ring ring 1 - tie Rod, 2 - puller, 3 - ball finger, 4 - Shut-off ring, 5 - round-rolls pressed on the plug.
It is easily done with a small universal puller (Fig. 15). His paws should be clinging for the housing
hinge, (pre-raising a protective case), and put pressure on the center of the plug. As soon as the tension disappeared, the round-rolls squeeze the braceling of the locking ring and take it out of the groove. We free the puller and remove the plug, seal, spring, pressure puck and liner from the hinge.
After disassembling the hinge, the locking ring loses its elasticity and when installing in the place pops out from the groove. Fully restore elasticity fails, but you can increase the outer diameter of the ring. To do this, we must put a ring on a metal smooth support and knock on it with a hammer. The ring is a little flattened and wishl will be heard.
Having finished the hinge assembly, do not forget to wash it with plasticine on the side of the plug.
We talked a lot about how difficult it is to write a ball finger. But when it is not necessary, it can be painted himself, and then it takes to pull it up. It is not always easy to do because the finger can spin with the nut, but to support it not for.
In this case, we screw the second nut M10x1 to the finger, and we wrap the screw into this nut inside this nut. Supporting the key additional nut, it is easy to tighten the main one. If you do not have nuts and screw M10x1, you can temporarily borrow a shock absorber fastening nut (in the trunk or engine compartment), and the screw is from the semi-axis flange.
The weakening of the fastening of the steering mechanism "Zaporozhets" is a fairly common phenomenon. Therefore, it is unlikely that it is unlikely to be recognized by the taking the main fastening screw from the side of the mudguard to control the oil level in the steering mechanism.
In general, it is better not to touch this screw, since the carving in the aluminum case of the steering mechanism is very weak. But, on the other hand, it must be tightened as weaken. Exit from the created position is - replace the standard screw M10X55 to a longer with an additional nut. Such a screw is screwed up to the body in the body of the steering case, and pressing the mudguard is carried out with a nut with a fixed position of the screw (Fig. 16).
As for the control of oil in the steering mechanism, it is better to simply add oil through the plug in the mechanism cover.
Fig. sixteen. Fastening the steering mechanism:
/ - steering gear, 1 - screw, 3 - nut 4 - Spring washer, 5 - washer, 6 - Adjusting washers
Torkemose
The main difficulty in disassembling the main brake cylinder is disconnected from pipelines. Sometimes it takes just a minute, it turns into a problem more often.
Usually the key fmines the ribs of nuts and turns. The first rule - you need to use a relatively new key,whose zev more tightly covers the nut. But even it does not always help.
Fig. 17. Elimination of the leaks of the brake fluid from the pipeline seal: / - the cylinder fitting, 2 - tube, 3 - nut, 4 - Lead gasket
Car lubers came up with a whole arsenal of various devices for turning out the piping of the piping nuts. These are special clamps, advanced pliers, special nuts, etc. We, for example, use a special nut, which is simply made at home from a standard M12 nut. Hole naiki Nadfil give the hexagon so that the nut with turnkey size is tightly included in it mm. Then, on one face with a hacksaw, we make two through cuts to form a groove width 6 mm.
Such a special nut wept through the groove on the pipeline, and then - on the pipeline nut, and the key 19 mM. calmly turn off the nut.
Well, and if there are no devices, and the usual key is already turning around the harms of the nut, you can use the gas key. However, it is better to still spend extra half an hour for the manufacture of a special nut, since after applying the gas key, the surface of the pipeline nut will deteriorate even more.
After connecting the pipeline to the cylinder may occur due to damage to the inner surface of the collapsed part of the tube. To ensure seal, we use a lead cap made of pre-flattened lead strips. The cap itself is molded from a strip, laid on a slab with a hole, easy blows on the rod (for example, a screw), which deepens the strip into the hole of the stove. In the center of the cap make a hole. The cap is put on a spherical protrusion in the cylinder hole, which will now go to the inside of the tube through a lead gasket (Fig. 17).
To remove the pistons, you need to turn away from the bottom of the cylinder two restrictive screws. Regardless of the state of the cuffs, they are better changed.
When disassembly of the main brake cylinder, a certain difficulty causes turning out the end nut, especially when there are no powerful vice, in which the cylinder could be clamped. We use such a reception. Cover the cylinder body at the nut with an adjustable key, and you wear an end key with head 27 mm, The handle is lengthened by the pipe. Cylinder with keys put on the floor. With one foot, hold the adjustable key, and the other we davir on the end tube (Fig. 18). With such a powerful attack, the Nut is always amenable to.
It is necessary to collect the cylinder from the side opposite to the threaded part so that the cuffs are not wrapped when the thread passes. First, in a vertically delivered cylinder, we lower the rear wheels piston with a cuff and a washer at its end, we wrap the restrictive screw. Then they put on the second piston of the spring of large diameter, the cup, the spring of a small diameter, insert everything into the cylinder, fix the restrictive screw.
Sometimes it is necessary to re-fix the plastic extinguishes for the supply of fluid to the cylinder. This is due to the weakening of the lock washer or due to its breakdown. Once this reason, we have completely left a tank liquid.
Before installing the fitting, it is necessary to carefully clean the landing socket and especially the groove that the teeth of the lock washer should rice.
On the fitting on the bottom we put on a rubber connounted ring, with the top - lock washer and omit all
Fig. eighteen. Disposhand the end nut of the main brake cylinder
set in cylinder socket. Then we put on the fitting the tube or the appropriate head of the end key and hit the my tray. The fitting will sit in place, and the lock washer is banned in the nest.
However, it happens when the brake fluid flow appears after that again. This is the case in the sealing ring, which, apparently, lacks efforts for dense pressed to the surfaces of the cylinder and the fitting. It is possible to correct the defect, under-loving under the spring washer self-made washer, carved from copper foil or tin.
Worse, when the lock washer broke, and there is no spare. In this case, it can be made from a fuster clamp around the cylinder so that he presses the fitting through the cut pipe.
Disassemble the working cylinder of the brakes is necessary when the cylinder is dried. Before disassembly, you should shut a hole on the tank cover with a sticky ribbon, then brake fluid It will not flow so much.
Disassembling Simple: Remove the cylinder protective case and screw the piston. Then it is necessary to inspect and feel the working surface of the cylinder. If it has scratches or greater development, then you need to change the cylinder assembly. If the state is normal, it is enough to change the cuff on the piston. Recall that the top cylinders of the front wheels and on the rear wheels are mounted cuffs with diameter 19 mm, on the bottom cylinders of the front wheels - 22 mm.
The cover of the working cylinder is convenient to wear straightened, and then unscrew the edges of the cylinder cover.
To remove the brake pads, you need to free them from ohwa springs. Springs on the front brakes are the same, on the rear different - the upper longer is lower. Large screwdriver We use the end of the spring and "shoot" it.
Springs are installed simply. One end rolls into the hole of the block. The second end is put on some conical rod, such as a non-working part of the file. The thin end of the rod is inserted into the hole, and the other end is delayed to such a position until the grip of the springs is behind the hole. In this case, the hook begins to slide down the rod and enters the hole (Fig. 19).
Some difficulties sometimes occur when equipping the brake drum to new blocks, especially on restored with concrete lining.
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Fig. nineteen. Installing a coupling spring to an Odoer
The first obstacle - the drum does not fit at all on the pads. There are three reasons here: the bin on the brake drum, the pistons are not in the extreme position, too thick linings on the pads.
The boil on the brake drum is easily cut by a triangular scraper or if it is not, a file.
Brake cylinders of "Zaporozhtsev" automatically adjust the gaps between the pads and the drums, but this adjustment is carried out in one direction as compensation increasing due to the depreciation of the gap.
Therefore, when we install new pads, cutting rings in cylinders are in the old position, i.e., shifted to the periphery on the value of the wear of the shoe. To return the split rings to its original position, you need to pull the pads from opposite sides, clinging for the brake shield. In this case, it is necessary to unscrew the cylinder valve slightly so that when moving the fluid piston, it was possible to go somewhere.
If the operations have not helped, you will have to paint the surface of the lining. Material removal locations are determined by scrolling the raised by the wheel or trial.
Some car enthusiasts to put the drum, cut off the shoes of the pads, which rest in the slot of the piston. But this method is not the best. Cutting the end of the blocks, we break the shape of the cylindrical surface, which will lead to an incomplete fit of the pad to the drum.
Operations for disassembly at least one cylinder end with pumping brake system to remove air. This is done by repetition of the cycle - pressing the brake pedal 3-5 times, dumping on the valve half turn.
Operation of pumping in the absence of overpass requires hanging the rear wheels to get to the valve of the working brake cylinder. Front wheels can not hang out, just deploy them so that the valve is available. Typically, the pumping is made two: one - the wheel, the other - in the cabin.
But there are ways to manage and alone. The first method is reduced to fixing the brake pedal in the pressed position at which you can, coming out of the cabin, unscrew and wrap the cylinder valve. The pedal can be fixed with the tire pump, supervised it in the front seat.
For the second way, you need to have a special tank cover with a valve. Air pumps up in the tank and the pressure in the system is created.
You rarely meet the "Zaporozhets", which has a good parking brake. When it is adjusted to reliable braking, it continues to slow down the wheels in its original position. If you adjust the tapping of the pads with the drums, it lacks the stroke for braking.
This is caused by the constructive features of the actuator of the parking brake. The lack of a fixed lever hinge requires a large stroke of the cable due to the consistent, and not simultaneously, like other cars, move the pads to the drum. In addition, the support cable shells are not sufficiently tough. Under these conditions, the performance of the parking brake is so depends on a small change in the condition of the working surface of the block, wear of the lining and other factors that many motorists do not use at all in general parking brake. Well and One time to demonstrate the good work of the brake during the inspection is not possible, since the traffic police do not check whether the brakes are completely released after applying the "parking brake.
How to fix the situation? You can come up with several ways, however, you should remember the requirement of the rules of the road on that it is impossible to operate a car with the convened design of the brake systems provided by the manufacturer.
For example, we, for example, without changing the design of the parking brake, improved its effectiveness by increasing the overall movement of the brake lever. To do this, disassemble the lever, sprinkle the top of the toothed sector (on 3 teeth), and in the handle it cut the groove in the arm, so that the lever falls below. The equalizing video must be rearranged for the second position.
Such a alteration on ZAZ-968M allows to have a more rational position of the lever handle, which provides greater effort and does not create inconvenience when driving (in low-speed drivers, elbow rushes about the constantly protruding arm of the lever).
ZAZ 968. STARTER
To remove and install the starter, you need to have an approach to the right bottom of the engine. The easiest way to do is on the overpass. If there is no such possibility, you need to raise the right side of the car, substitute the stand under the lever rear suspension And remove the rear wheel. Then turn off rechargeable battery. With the right side of the engine mudguard, the hatch cover (replete 2 MB screws), you will get access to the starter relay. To disconnect the wires suitable to the switches, the keys are required 12 and 8 mm. In order not to confuse the wires when installing, you need to remember or write their location. True, those of them that are suitable for thick contact bolts (M8) have tips with a large hole, so it is difficult to confuse them. We are talking about two wires: blue for a starter and white rearing to the additional starter relay - to the coil of the cloudy gas. If you look at the ender installed on the engine, then the blue wire must be attached to the bolt, located on the left of the thick bolt. On the cover of the relay, the hairpin with a white wire is marked (VC), but it is not always possible to see in the dark under the car.
Freeing the starter from the wires, key 17 mM. We turn over two nuts located on the flange of the clutch crankcase, and take the starter along with the studs through the hatch of the mudguard.
The starter malfunction is most often associated with drive wear, brushes and burning relay contacts.
To replace the drive, you need to unscrew the two tie screws with turnkey head 9 mm, Disconnect the wire that comes from the starter to the relay. Then, inserting a screwdriver into the gap between the stator and the drive lid, we move the stator and remove it. To extract the rotor from the drive cover, it is necessary to fray and remove the finger of the lever.
Remove the starter drive from the shaft only after removing the locking ring.
To change the brushes, you need to remove the stator and from it the back cover. In this case, two brushes, connected to the stator, extend from the plastic brush holders of the lid, and the other two connected to the "mass" remain in the lid.
We had a case when the wire fell out of the brush. There was no new brush. They came out of the position. In the opening of the brush, the threads of the M4 were cut, irradiated the end of the wire and also cut the thread. The brush was wrapped on the wire and so drove several years.
If you suspect a malfunction of contacts of the traction starter relay, you need to unscrew the nut bolt M5 (without labeling "VC") and two screw mounting screws. It should be removed carefully by pressing the bolt, which, after removing the cover, stay on the wire winding wire.
Contact bolts are removed from the lid and cleaned on a plank wrapped with a shallow eye. Sometimes there are such recesses on the surface of contact caps of the bolts, which cannot be removed by the skin. In this case, you need to turn the bolts in square holes - the caps of the cover so that the contact disk is pressed against the inbursse surface.
To repair the starter relay, it is not necessary to remove the entire starter from the car. You can only remove the relay housing, turning two screws on its flange. Before that, you will certainly mark the risk of the relay and starter case, so as not to disturb the location of the contact bolts relay.
Externally, it is easy to distinguish from the predecessor for different design of the front, other turn signals and overall fires. But the main family features have been preserved - "ears" -thethots and stylish round lights. True, the air intakes in the 968th begin in the area rear axisWhile the 966th they were longer and started on the same line with the rear arch. A decorative lattice of type "whale" disappeared from the front, which gave way to a decorative chrome element.
Whoever spoke to, and from the point of view of design, Zaporozhets came out very cute and harmonious. Many believe that appearance It was entirely "slug" with NSU Prinz 1961. However, this is not the case - the first running prototypes appeared simultaneously with NSU - in the same 1961. But the fact that the creators of both cars were inspired by American Chevrolet Corvair, no doubt.
Salon Zaporozhets is pretty ascetic. In combination, the minimum of devices is a speedometer and the fuel level pointer. The latter's arrow when moving is moving, like a tail of a lubricular dog, and understand the true level of gasoline is difficult.
The salon is not only simple, but also cramped. To make the way to the rear sofa through the folding chair and the narrow door is not easy. Yes, and sit there is not very convenient.
The driver resembles a specific layout. The front arches are greatly issued in the cabin, because of which the pedal node is noticeably shifted to the right relative to the steering column. The air dam lever is located between the front seats, and the control of the stove is to the right of the steering column. But the gearbox lever is located right at hand.
The rear-engine layout led to the fact that the trunk is located in front. And this is stated even in the native instruction manual. So Zaporozhets has a "trunk of the front and a hood pin." The luggage compartment is very small. And without that small volume eaten a spare wheel, a battery and a gasoline stove.
Another task for an unprepared person can be refueling for gas stations. After all, outside the neck of the fuel tank is not found - she hid under the hood. And the opening handle hood is located on the central rack.
Warm heart
MEMZ-968 engine of air cooling with a volume of 1.2 liters develops 41 hp at 4200 rpm. It is very simple and maintained, and is just so much so that two people are enough to dismantle it.
In the power system, the K-126 carburetor was used and an inertial air filter, which did not require replaceable filter elements. Unfortunately, the Melitopol "Invester" did not differ much reliability. These engines rarely looked at 100 thousand km - more often twice. The engine suffered from overheating, like a fuel pump, which in some situations could simply stop swing fuel. But what exactly will not refuse this motor, so it is in. The fuel consumption was held in the area of \u200b\u200b6 l / 100 km at 80 km / h. Paradox, but the next iteration of Cossacks - 968m, which was nicknamed the nickname "soapsy", spent much more - about 10 liters per hundred with the same 80 km / h.
It is not necessary to talk about some kind of dynamics. In the theory, Zaporozhets reaches 100 km / h per 32 seconds. BUT maximum speed It is 118 km / h. But in practice, 80 km / h any acceleration is already stopped. And faster to go to 968th there is no desire.
Soft move
The suspension is completely independent - in front of the torsion, behind the spring. And ZAZ 968a is perfectly flat bottom and large road clearance in 200 mm. All this endowed the Zaporozhets worthy permeability, which would envy the rest of the USSR cars.
Wheels at the Zaporozhets are wildly, and the hubs are brake drums. And brakes - one of weak places. The slowdown is sluggish, the drive is non-informative even by the standards of the 70s. Therefore, to slow down on the 968th better in advance. But he has a very good smoothness of the stroke. What you can not tell about the controllability: with the growth of speed, the car begins to vilny, and after 80 km / h, it is frankly scary to ride it.
But at the same time, the Zaporozhets has a very light steering wheel, to twist which can even be on the spot without any effort. In addition, the front wheels turn to a very large corner. And this, together with small dimensions, emphasizes "eared" excellent maneuverability.
In the car is very noisy. And everything is noise - the wind walks in the doors and windows. Recognizable tharachtite engine. Howls the transmission. And after 70 km / h, a very characteristic and incredibly funny whistle of those "ears" is added. Noise level - Another reason for which 80 km / h is there any point in time.
Despite all his shortcomings, Zaporozhets loved. For his naive look. For incredible simplicity and maintainability. And for a small cost - the car at the time of appearance cost only 3,500 rubles. For comparison, it cost 5,500, and the Vazovskaya "Tryshka" is all 7500. Therefore, he often became the first car in families who could not afford more. And the Zaporozhets performed its transport function, regardless of the quality of roads.
Photo: Christina Tavern
