Liftbek Rapid is gaining popularity and is about to come to the first place for the sales among relatives, overtaking the current leader - Octavia. To make a car attractive and externally, and on a stuffing, and at a price, the developers made a win-winning move - many solutions from other cars of the Volkswagen concern were borrowed: the platform among the sedan polo, part of the nodes of Fabia, appearance in Oktavia.
We will check how such a "hybrid" is dealing with service. Recall that maintainability we estimate in points that correspond to the total normochas (on the official grid) spent on conducting certain operations.
Replacing candles and oil filter: Troy from Larz
Rapid for the Russian market is available with three gasoline engines - these are atmospheric 1.2 and 1.6 and turbo 1.4. They are well known for other concern models. All - with a chain drive-driven, which does not require maintenance.
The younger motor - three-cylinder 1.2 - is found primarily at the Fabi of the previous generation. The hollow equipment belt is designed for the entire service life of the engine, but usually carries out 100,000-150,000 km. Its automatic tensioner roller is located next to the generator and has a stopper for fixing in a weakened position. But to use it for a simple replacement of the belt is extremely uncomfortable, it is better to forget about it. To loosen the tensioner serves TORKS "50" under the black plastic roller cover. The belt is easier to change from above, but do not forget to draw or take a picture of how it stood. Surprisingly, it can easily be delivered wrong.
Individual ignition coils are hidden under a decorative plastic lid with four latches. As with most modern gasoline engines of the Volkswagen concern, they sit in the candlestones in the swelling. To remove the coils, you need a special puller or its homemade analogue, otherwise the risk to damage them. Another inconvenience: the connectors on them stand upside down. For an inexperienced person, remove the connectors, without seeing the type of retainer, is problematic. And remove the coils along with them from the wells is impossible. For candles, you need a head "on 16". Replacing the regulations - every 60,000 km.
The air filter body is located behind the battery, on the left. The top cover is fixed with four self-testers. The element replacement interval is 30,000 km.
Middle brother - a four-cylinder 1.6-liter engine is familiar with the sedan polo. His roller-tensioner hinged belt is more convenient than that of the motor 1.2. Weakening it with the key "at 17" counterclockwise and put any suitable stopper into a special hole when it comes to the tide on the block. Do it, like changing the belt itself, is the easiest below.
The algorithm for replacing the candle is the same as on Motor 1.2. The difference only in the fastening of the decorative cover of the coils: two latches in front and two guides from behind.
The air filter housing is located behind the engine. The top cover is fixed with five screws. For greater convenience, when replacing the filter, remove the ventilation hose from the valve cover. He just goes on the fitting.
Superior engine 1.4 has the same drive of attachments, like the 1.6 motor. But the replacement of the candles was more difficult. The lid is fixed with four torques "on 30", access to the coil of the fourth cylinder is strongly limited. At a minimum, you need to dismantle the ventilation tube passing right above it. Further, it all depends on the agility of the hands - remove the connector from the coil interferes the pipe from the turbine to the throttle assembly. If the connector is not amenable to, it will have to be eliminated by reloading two torques on the turbine "by 30", and on the throttle by pressing a couple of large latches. From the nozzle, you need to remove all hoses and highways, as well as the air flow sensor connector. With reverse assembly, it is important to smear the sealing rubber ring on the turbine, otherwise it can be broken. The air filter body is located on the left. The top cover is fixed with six torks "on 20".
The engine does not affect the layout of the workpiece. All motors have the same uncomfortable fuzzy neck for oil. It is with inner thresholds, so the lubricant needs to be poured very slowly, so as not to overflow through the edge.
All aggregates have an oil filter, above the generator. When replacing the filter, put the rag so that you can not drink nodes under it. Engine 1.2 is a cartridge filter, with a replaceable internal element. Its plastic case is retrieving the head "on 36". Other aggregates are solid filters. For them we use puller or infridate tools.
A drain plug for antifreeze is not provided. The liquid is calculated for the entire service life of the motor. In the case of a forced drain, you will have to remove the lower nozzle of the radiator.
Three gearboxes are offered to the choice of Russian buyers: five-speed mechanics, six-speed automatic and seven-step robot DSG. The oil change is regulated only for the machine - every 60,000 km. In other aggregates, it is flooded for the entire service life. But no one is immune from repair, which implies a drop of oil.
Manual box is friendly with motors 1.2 and 1.6. Engineers still took care of the simplicity of oil replacement: there are familiar bay and drain plugs. The bay hole is also the control. Normal oil level - on its edge.
The hydromechanical automaton is available only for engine 1.6. It is installed on many models of the concern, and the most common on the polo sedan. The drain hole is both control, and filled. The measuring tube under the hexagon "on 5" is screwed into it. The height of the tube corresponds to the normal level of oil in a box heated to 35-40 degrees and a running motor. To drain the lubricant, completely retire the tube, then install it in place and pour oil.
The service for this use special containers and hoses, but you can do and conventional syringe for boxes. You only need to make a tip for a housing with a tube. In fairness, I will note that such an uncomfortable scheme is applied by other manufacturers.
DSG box is in pairs only with a turbo video 1.4. To replace oil in it is much easier than in the hydromechanical machine: there is a conventional drain plug below, and the oil is poured (in the volume of 1.9 l) through the breather from above.
To replace any technicians, it is necessary to remove the plastic protection of the crankcase that does not have technological holes. It is fixed with nine Torques "on 25". Do not pull them out, otherwise we will cut the threads in mortgage elements.
Replacing batteries, filters and brake fluid: all that except
Replacing the battery will not be much labor. The plate with power fuses is fixed on the plus terminal and the battery case with two large latches. Put it from the battery and remove it together with a weakened terminal. Battery itself is fixed in front of a metal plate with a bolt "at 13".
The mechanism for adjusting the parking brake moved from Fabia. Access to it depends on the configuration of the machine. On machines without armrest, it is enough to remove a rectangular niche behind the lever. And if there are armrests, you have to suffer - it has a hard-to-reach attachment. Even after removing the armrest, you will have to partially dismantle and raise the central console slightly and manage to bring the adjustment mechanism. Without acute need, you don't need to go there.
The cabin filter is located in the legs of the front passenger, on the left (both in Fabia and Polo sedan). The replacement interval is 15,000 km.
The remote fuel filter is on the right of the tank. Replacement interval - every 60,000 km. When removing the servicemen does not blend pressure in the fuel system. On the number of spilled gasoline, this does not affect. On the filter there is an arrow of the installation direction, but without that it is impossible to put it wrong. On the body it is fixed with a plastic clamp.
The design of the brake system depends on the motor. Machine with engine 1.4 all brakes disc. The front caliper is fixed by two guides under the hexagon "by 7", and the pads are deprived of anti-graded springs in the guide brackets. The rear caliper will be pulled by two bolts "on 13", and to replace the pads you need a "Cleaner" - the piston of the caliper can be pressed only by rotation.
Rapids with an engine 1.6 front brakes are the same, and the drums are behind. To replace the rear pads, special tools are no longer needed.
Machines with motor 1.2 front brake discs are less and, accordingly, all elements are different. Front pads - with anti-graded springs, and the caliper is fixed with two bolts "on 12". Rear drums - like versions with a motor 1.6.
Change brake fluid just - fittings are conveniently located. You need to update it every two years.
Access to the lamps in the right spotlight is free, and on the left, everything is again dependent on the motor. On machines with motors 1.2 and 1.4, the battery moves a little forward, and it eats some of the free space. Fortunately, lamps and their cartridges have a simple fixation. If you are not enough space for maneuvers, remove the battery. It is not an option to remove the headlight - without dismantling the bumper it is not done.
Halogen lamps in the front fogs are changing outside. First remove the edging, and then the headlights themselves. To access the light bulbs in the back lamp, it will have to dismantle that it will not require special skills.
The fuel filter is an important element in the fuel supply system to the engine, which is installed between the gas tank machine and the pump leading to the motor. The functional purpose of the filter is to clean the gasoline from dirt, small abrasive particles, as well as paraffins and various additives, which may be contained in the fuel.
The neglect of the replacement of a faulty fuel filter will impair the quality of gasoline entered into the internal combustion chamber, which negatively affects both the power of the motor and the operational resource of components.
What fuel filter is better?
The filter design varies by type of fuel and differences in the injection system. Skoda rapid can be installed both carburetor and injector variant of filters, cleansing gasoline or liquefied gas in the event of a gas-blade equipment. The design of the car provides for the installation of two cleaning systems, namely:
- Submersible filters - representing a difficult structural cleaning system, which is installed inside the fuel tank. Functional significance is to filter coarse cleaning. Replacing the device does not cause difficulties;
- The main filters - in the pipeline on the area from the gas tank to the fuel pump and are elements of point cleaning. Depending on the degree of cleaning, the main filter can be removed both fine dirt and synthetic fats or oils that are bred in fuel.
At Skoda Rapid, the optimal option will be the installation of the filters of both types, which will increase the quality of the fuel entered in the engine. 
Overview of fuel filters for Skoda Rapid: analogues and original components
The manufacturer recommends changing the fuel filter every 60,000 mileage mileage or 2 years after installation, which will guarantee the maximum cleaning quality. It is also important to know that on different series of rapid filters are not interchangeable and vary depending on the engine volume.
| Manufacturer | vendor code | Inner diameter, mm | Pressure bar. | Approximate cost, rub. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Knecht. | KL1766D. | 7.69 | 4 | 270 |
| Fram. | G5540. | 8.41 | 4 | 430 |
| Goodwill | FG206 | 8.00 | 4 | 510 |
| Hengst Filter. | H155WK. | 9.01 | 4 | 555 |
| JC Premium. | B3W027Pr. | 8.00 | 4 | 565 |
| Alco Filter. | SP2137 | 8.00 | 4 | 610 |
Note! It is recommended to select fuel filter on a vehicle VIN-number or by checking the parts of the spare parts for compatibility on the manufacturer's official website - otherwise there is a risk of purchasing an inappropriate device that does not ensure due filtering quality.
Replacing the fuel filter on Skoda Rapid do it yourself
Install the new filter on the Skoda Rapid can both forces without resorting to assistance. For repair from the tools, a set of wrench, a set of slotted and crusades, passage, pure rags or a soft brush for wiping components. 
In order to replace the fuel filter, it is necessary:
- Drive the vehicle to the lift or the observation pit, you can also subdominate the front of the car, after installing the locking stops under the wheels. The fuel filter is located on the bottom under the rear passenger seat - in the area and the entire front work will be produced - this must be considered when setting the machine;
- Next, open and put on the focus of the hood, then turn off the "minus" terminal from the battery, in order to turn off the power supply;
- After that, under the fuel pump we find a fuse and pull out the part to reset the pressure in the system and not splash the components of the gasoline;
- The filter is fastened on a plastic latch, which is fixed on a cross-shaped screw. Clean the part from the mud with a brush and dismantle. Upon completion of the procedure, the filter will move freely in the plane and will only remove the fittings: paired pieces on each side;
- In order to remove the fittings, you need to click on the button of the retainer, and the passage to pull out the part. After dismantling, we drain gasoline from the fittings and the filter - now you can start installing new components;
- By installing a new fuel filter, drive the fittings to the characteristic crack. If the item is not attached, then the fittings are damaged and you need to replace the spare parts for new ones. Next, tighten the bolts and the installation is completed.
Note! When installing the fuel filter, it is important to follow, in order to the device did not get dirt or minor abrasive objects. The optimal option will be the replacement of the filter in the garage, where there is no risk of dirt and dust in the system due to wind.
In case of contamination of the spare parts, the device is recommended to rinse with technical alcohol and dry - disregard for cleaning significantly shortens the operational period of the part.
Usually everyone starts records about that 0. But I'm not destiny, because the car was taken from the father with a mileage of 51 300km. Prior to that, he was serviced at the handshake ... for that 60,000 dealer bombarded 18 500r ... I called for interest in the dealer of Ivanovo, they charged 19 600r. In short, well, nafig. I went to the service Avtotechcenter Falcon:
Where is my friend who is now working, which is a big companion on VAG, for previously worked in OD Ruslan (Dealer FV). It was he who served earlier my prior and moves at 12 walker, about which I wrote here. In general, I like that by those parts, my cars make 1 person, and by electronically coarse 1 person. I do not let any hands) parts were purchased as:
all this was worth 2930r candles of 360r / piece, oil filter 310r, plug 70r, air filter 170r, fuel 940r.
These are the candles, as the "opening" showed - exactly the same stood from the factory. 360r pieces ... I bought 4 candles for 200-250r at the prior))
The process went.
the mystery is revealed why the dealer did not remove the protection when replacing the oil. The bolt on the right scrolls. As a result, it was decided to change the mortgage piece where the bolt is screwed (forgot what it is called), later change. I am very sorry for being at the dealer, I did not divorce the scandal and did not make them change it. And so - "quality" on face. A year and a half, and bolts do not turn away. What did Suvfan speak about Kalina? Obviously, the steel is the same here.
Started with oil. I refused to Liqua-Molly, moved to Lukoil. Genesis 5-40, took in the Dicone.
Such a molly merged, after a run on it about 7,000 km. At first there was such an oil color, then flowed darker.
Switched to the fuel filter. Old was sparkled in airy to easily remove
For me, as a former recruiting, this is the arrangement of the air and throttle - unusual.
From this side, the choke is clean, with the reverse - no. Did not clean, because We must google how it is done.
Thus looked old air.
Here, too, the ignition coils, though the other shape and the other price. And here is meak things, candles. All addicts to change candles on the regulations is dedicated. Pay attention to the gap, especially in comparison with the new candles. On this site, I often saw reports that the candles do not need to change before the regulations, someone even reproached me in an excessive waste when I changed the candles once in 20 000km on the prior (against the regulations of 30,000).
Next, it was necessary to reset the interval, did according to the instructions from the drive: "Actions are as follows: Click the button on the dashboard (I remind you that with the 2016 model year, the button on the tidy one and the interval discharge algorithm is somewhat different), while holding the ignition button. Let's release the button. The proposal will turn off the interval then pressed the button- confirmed ".
Despite the replacement of oil and candles, the difference in the work of the car is not noticed) The total cost was: consumables: 2930r + oil 1600r, work 1260r \u003d 5790 p, which is three cheaper than the dealer.
