If you think the condition of the engine of your car requires a serious overhaulthat the diagnosis in says that the engine resource has been developed almost completely and the capital range will no longer save, that is, only two options: either buy new engineor used. But here it is possible to save money and purchase used contract Engine in good condition. An essential feature of such a purchase is the need to know how to choose a diesel contract engine. Still, the unit was used, and although he arrived from Europe, the reasons for which he got on the contract for the warehouse, you cannot know 100%, so there is a certain risk. If you are not a specialist, the choice of a contractual diesel engine is to entrust a professional, it is desirable to such that can not only choose a high-quality engine and vouch for its quality, but also will install it in the car by providing a guarantee for its work.
But how to choose a diesel engine former in operation, if there are no familiar car mechanics and visit yourself? How to distinguish junk from the engine in good condition and determine the real cost? In this publication, we will try to disassemble all the details of buying a contract diesel for your car.
First, you must very carefully inspect the engine from all sides. Pay attention - whether the engine is not washed because if the engine is washed away, then the seller can try to hide defects And the obvious problems of the cylinder block. Very often, sellers b / echo motors wash them to remove oil drips, thereby disguising the fact of the flowing glands.
If you find leaks after installing the engine, it can lead to the need to replace them, or even more serious problems, if after mounting and start you will not notice the leakage, then the problems will overtake the car on the road. Change the glands on the removed engine is much cheaper, but you risk you know when it will be too late. Therefore, the first advice - run from the washed engine, no matter how clear it does not look. A good honest engine was not necessarily, its quality is not determined by the external shine and purity.
So, you chose a motor that does not look like a stuffed boiler. What's next? Next, you should conduct an inspection of the cylinder head for the absence of leaks of oil from under the gasket of the GBC. If there is a flow - immediately refuse to buy, with this option there may be problems in the future.
Third step we must unscrew the lid of the oil-coaling neck of the engine and view it from inner. Here we are worried about two points: the presence of oil nagar and emulsion. If Nagar is present, this suggests that the oil into the engine was poured, gently say, poor-quality. The same effect may occur if the oil has never changed. But worse, if you see an emulsion on the lid, which is formed when the oil is mixed with coolant. And if there is an emulsion, it almost always says that gLP gasket Pissing, or there is a crack in the cylinder block or in its head. At the best case, the emulsion will indicate a crack in the oil cooler, but the presence of all these cracks suggests that the engine most likely visited the accident, which means full of unpleasant surprises.
Oil naiga or emulsion on the oil-tank lid? Refusing to buy this diesel engine. We look next!
Next, we must scroll the engine into several complete revolutions. This we do not to check the compression that it is impossible to check this way if the motor lay in stock without oil with removed nozzles For a long time. But in this way, you can make sure that piston system And the crankshaft rotate freely and is not subdined during the rotation. If the engine turning fails - specify, perhaps with a diesel engine was removed fuel pump high pressure. In this case, the turning will be obtained only under one condition: if there is a separate drive on your diesel engine, and, accordingly, when it is removed, the gas distribution system is not violated. Thus, if when turning the engine is clearly noticeable to the subcinition - we do not take such a contract diesel.
The next stage of the external inspection is checking intake manifold diesel engine. It should be borne in mind that an oil film is always present in the collector, it is completely normal. Abnormally, if in the intake manifold noticeable oil Nagar. in great numbers. The fact is that the recycling system is established in modern diesel engines to reduce toxicity exhaust gases (EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION, EGR). This system is designed to reduce the toxicity of exhaust gases, including to reduce the content of nitrogen oxides in them and works according to the following principle: as a valve, which in some modes of operation of the diesel engine connects the space of the exhaust manifold with the binding space of the intake manifold. As a result, part of the exhaust gases falls through the intake manifold in the cylinder, where the exhaust gases are surrendered. This is definitely accompanied by the formation of a car in the intake manifold, but if there is too much in Nagara, it will indicate problems in the work eGR systems Or that engine mileage is larger than the stated.
Ask the seller remove the exhaust manifold from the contract engine to check Status of final windows. The main thing you should make sure is that the Nagar in the graduation windows is in the form of dry soot. Oils should not be in any case, it is important.
The last thing we can do in the process of external inspection is to ask the seller to hang the engine. By this you will get access to a diesel engine from all sides, make sure that all the motor mounts are integrity and the engine pallet has no dents or, worse - cracks.
Thus, you can even independently carry out if not a full-fledged examination, then at least to protect yourself from errors in choosing a diesel engine and thereby increase the likelihood that you buy a good contract Motor. However, this method cannot completely exclude. The diesel engine, the ex-in operation, can show itself from the unexpected side, because the whole truth about what conditions and how it is exploited by the previous owner, you will never know.
Therefore, the most reasonable will order a contract engine from a proven seller. The main seller's choice criterion will have good reviews In the environment of car owners, it is desirable if these car owners go on the same car as you. The right seller will have the stock of the most running engines in its warehouse, provides installation services for customers' cars and gives a warranty. It is necessary to make a reservation that the guarantee of aggregates, used, according to the current legislation is not provided, therefore, if the seller gives a guarantee, it suggests that the engines proposed by them are checked, distributed, all interchangeable consumables Diesels are replaced, and new oil is flooded.
If you need a car not so much in order to ride it, and as a fascinating hobby, which implies the tireless adjustment of the car to the working condition, then you can always focus only on the price policy. In our article we will tell you how to test old diesel engine before the purchase.
Almost always the car is chosen all the same specifically as a means for riding home and to work, with all this - the tool must be reliable, so that there is no significant additional temporary and cash investment.
In order for the later acquisition, it is not upset, it is fundamentally avoided by all "underwater pebbles" - sheltered flaws that are inherent in a certain car that has interested in car market.
In an unpleasant case, it is also necessary to fully use the pluses of a diesel engine, you will receive a bonus set of all its shortcomings - everything is usually "sick" worn: a faulty diesel engine - an increased fuel consumption, overestimated smoke, bad launch.
1st, what should be done - before a trip to the auto market - it is right to determine what the properties of the motor are most important to you. To a larger chagrin, an unlimited amount of power units cannot be bought to be economical, reliable, massive and perfectly repaitted. No matter how sad, but it will be necessary to find compromises.
Small motors (which are installed on small cars), in general, can enjoy a good fuel efficiency, but they are least durable, the least reliable and differ in more moderate features of the power in comparison with the "senior fellows".
The larger working volume of the unit, according to statistics, is able to provide greater level of reliability.
Incombated engines, in comparison with turbocharged motors, are more durable, reliable and with all this own economical indicators in the level of fuel economy.
Motors, supplemented by a turbine, although they differ in a special "appetite" and least reliable, but the best way to come to those who first wishes to grow the power of their own car.
Before buying an auto market, a car that more matches all your abilities and desires, you need to study the quality of its aggregate very intently.
First we look at the non-working motor - On the subject / lack of the presence of oil flows, traces from the cooling water - it indicates that this old engine overheated.
Traces of fueling oil on the engine can be exclusively in very small quantities. It is better that they are completely absent on the glands.
Remove the pipeconnecting the intake manifold and air filter (in turbated models - turbine and air filter). If there is a small amount of oil in the nozzle - then it is in the best case testimony of the harsh degree of contamination of the cutter gas removal system or air filter, in worst, is a consequence of strong wear piston group.
Run a motor car. If he started not from a semolutement, then this fact must be taken as the presence of a certain covered shortage. Check need to spend a couple of times, with different intervals between the starts. With all this, you do not need to harm the gas pedal and warming the candles - there is no need. If the merchant insists on similar actions, he wants to try to lead your attention from the covered shortage of the force unit.
When you start the motor, pay attention to the emission. At idle on the hot motor of smoke should not be. Permissible norm - This is just a small smoke emission at the start.
Little tapping in the engine (like "rolling pebbles") - for diesel engines is the norm, but the knocks that stand out from the entire background should make you think about you - especially if they persist with increasing the number of revolutions.
Small increasing turns. With idle slowly run to the value of 3500 - 4000 thousand rpm, watching the engine - he should not shake and twitch.
We again do the same operation, but with all this you need to evaluate the color of the exhaust. If, with an increase in revolutions, a nuclear ribbon smoke occurs, then this is a testimony or late ignition, or other shortcomings in the engine.
Sharply press the gas pedal and look again for the exhaust and motor. If the motor is shaking, and from exhaust pipe It comes out of the SIZY torn smoke, then on those circulation, where it is observed, a significant loss of power will be seen.
In the case when the knocks are heard or from the exhaust pipe goes thick dark smoke, such a car is better to delete from your list.
If everything is fine, continue to inspect. Compression in the engine must be checked in the service center (permissible value - more than 31, applicable - 36 atmospheres, variation of values \u200b\u200bcan be more than two atmospheres). But on the spot it is there for previously to evaluate. Carefully unscrewed - with an engine running at idle - the neck cover for pouring oil. If when you try to put on the hole, the cover is discarded with gas - this is naturally a bad sign.
But if it does not happen - this is not a guarantee that there are no tasks with compression. Diagnostics should be carried out on the service - there you can also check the oil pressure in the highway at idle on the hot engine. The permissible value is one atmosphere if you have a turbocharged unit, then more than one and a half atmospheres. Indications need to be removed using a mechanical pressure gauge.
It is clear that, without testing in real Road Criteria The quality of the motor's work is not found. Only by making in practice all the probable modes of operation of the motor, you can realize whether it is working.
Tests in the boundary modes, of course, should last during a couple of seconds - this will be pretty for "diagnostics" of probable problems, but will not lead to their formation.
To check the health of the TNVD regulator, you need to sharply press and release the gas pedal. If the motor rapidly returned to mode idling - Everything is fine. If it came out slightly - the motor or turbine is faulty.
If you need a car not so much in order to ride how much a fascinating hobby, involving the tireless finishing of the machine to work condition, then you can easily navigate only on the price criterion.
However, in most cases, the car is chosen all the same as a means of movement, while a reliable means that does not require additional significant financial and temporary investments.
In order for the new acquisition to subsequently disappoint you, it is important to avoid all the "pitfalls" - hidden defects inherent in a specific machine who have interested in car market.
Otherwise, instead of fully enjoying the advantages of a diesel engine, you will get an unpleasant set of its drawbacks - everything that "sick" faulty, worn diesel engines - bad launch,
elevated smoke, increased fuel consumption.
The first thing you need to do is before the car market - clearly decide what engine characteristics are most important to you. Unfortunately, most power units cannot simultaneously be powerful, reliable, economical, possess good maintainability ... No matter how regrettable, you will have to look for compromises.
Small engines (installed on small cars) are generally distinguished by good fuel efficiency, at the same time they are less reliable, less durable and differ in more modest power characteristics in comparison with "senior fellow".
Large working volume of the power unit, as evidenced by statistical calculations, provides it and greater level of reliability.
Incombated motors, in comparison with turbocharged structures, more reliable, durable and at the same time have better indicators in terms of fuel economy.
Engines, complemented by a turbine, in turn, albeit less reliable and differ in particular "appetite", in the best possible ways to put the characteristics of the power in the first place.
at first we look at the non-working engine - For presence (better, of course, there is no lack of) oil drills, traces from the release of coolant, indicating that the motor overheated.
Traces of fueling oil on the engine may be present (in a slight degree). It is extremely desirable that they are not at all on the glands.
Remove the nozzle that connects the air filter and the intake manifold (in turbocharged models - air filter and turbine). The presence of a large amount of oil in the nozzle at best indicates a serious degree of air filter contamination or cutter gases, in worst - is a consequence of strong wear of the cylindrophneum group.
Run the engine. If "on the hot" he started not from a semolutement, then it should be perceived as a testimony of a certain hidden defect. A check is required several times, with different intervals between the launches. At the same time, you do not need to press the gas pedal and warm the candles - there is no need for this. If the seller insists on such actions, he consciously tries to hide from you the presence of a defect in the force unit.
Pay attention to exhaust When starting the engine. At idle turns on the hot engine of smoke should not be. Only a small smoke emission on start-up is allowed.
Small tapping in Motor ("Rolling pebbles") - for diesel engines, but the knocks that allocate from the general rhythm must alert you - especially if, with increasing revolutions, they are saved.
We smoothly increase the rev. With idle gradually proceed to the value of three and a half - four thousand revolutions per minute, watching the engine - it should not twitch and shake.
We again do the same operation, assessing the color of the exhaust. If, with increasing revolutions, torn appears sIZY smokeThis indicates either late ignition, or about other defects in the motor.
Sharply click on the gas pedal And again, we see the engine and exhaust. If a force aggregate It shakes, and from the exhaust pipe there is a torn gray smoke, then on those revolutions on which this happens will occur with a significant loss of power.
If there are knocks or the exhaust pipe shall be black smoke, such a car is better to delete from your list.
If everything is in order, continue to inspect. Compression in the engine must be checked on the service (acceptable value - 36 atmospheres, permissible - at least 31, scattering values \u200b\u200bfor cylinders - no more than two atmospheres). However, it can be previously estimated in place. Carefully unscrewed - when the engine is running at idle - the oil-grained lid. If, after that, when you try to put a cover on the hole, it discards the gas stream - it is definitely a bad sign.
However, if this does not happen - this does not guarantee the lack of problems with compression. Diagnostics must be carried out at the service station - besides, it will be possible to check oil pressure In the oil line on the hot motor at idle. (An acceptable value is at least one atmosphere, for turbocharged power units - at least one and a half atmospheres. The readings are removed using a mechanical pressure gauge).
We give the engine to cool (at least up to 50? C), open the radiator lid, fill the coolant to the edge, close. Then the engine must be started, and after the thermostat opens, to see (with the engine running), whether radiator air bubbles. If this takes place, then the ungreet or head of the block, or the gasket, or the block itself.
Checking the launch of the power unit "on the cold" It implies - ideally - its launch at that temperature at which it will be operated in winter (thus, in summer, all possible defects will not be revealed to this way, but still it is not worth neglected in the warm season).
If the motor started as quickly as "on hot", then everything is in order both with compression and the work of the cold start system, incandescent candles, batteries, starter.
At idle, the power unit should work without interruptions. It is allowed to be somewhat more rigid work in the "cold" mode - the reason can be as special cold start systems, which are equipped with some TNVD (they "consciously" shifted the diesel fuel injecting angle in low temperatures in order to improve the engine launch).
Naturally, without engine operation tests in real road conditions not enough. Only recreation in practice all possible modes of operation of the power unit can be understood as far as it is.
Tests in limit modes, of course, must continue within a few seconds - this will be enough for "diagnosis" of possible problems, and will not lead to their creation.
In order to check the health of the TNVD regulatorIt is necessary to drastically press and release the gas pedal. If the engine quickly returned to idle - everything is in order. If slowly - and at the same time, from the exhaust pipe in the level of revolutions, it continues to go to the SIZY smoke - a turbine or motor is faulty. If there is no smoke, but at idle the power unit is returned slowly - the regulator of the TNVD is defective.
If no extraneous knocks in the motor are detected, exceeding the indicators of the heating rate, significant smoke, the incidence of power in certain modes of movement is a good sign.
If the machine is needed to you not so much in order to ride it, and as an interesting hobby, which implies the tireless finishing of the car to the working condition, then you can always navigate only on price policies. In our article we will tell you how to test used diesel engine before buying.
In most cases, the car is chosen all the same as a means for riding home and to work, while the tool must be reliable, so as not to require significant additional temporary and financial investments.
In order to subsequently the new acquisition of you disappointing, it is important to avoid all the "pitfalls" - hidden defects that are inherent in a particular machine that interested you in the car market.
Otherwise, instead of using the advantages of the diesel engine, you will receive a bonus set of all its drawbacks - everything is usually "sick" worn: a faulty diesel engine - an increased fuel consumption, increased smoke, poor launch.
The first thing that should be done is before the car market - it is clearly defined what the characteristics of the motor for you are most important. Unfortunately, a huge amount of power aggregates cannot together be economical, reliable, powerful and good to repair. No matter how sad, but it will be necessary to look for compromises.
Small motors (which are installed on small cars), in general, they can boast of good fuel efficiency, but they are less durable, less reliable and differ in more modest power characteristics in comparison with the "senior fellow".
A larger working volume of the power unit, according to statistics, is able to ensure greater level of reliability.
Incombated engines, in comparison with turbocharged motors, are more durable, reliable and at the same time have cost-effective indicators in the level of fuel economy.
Motors, complemented by a turbine, although they differ in particular "appetite" and are less reliable, but the best way to come to those who are primarily wanting to increase the capacity of their cars.
Before buying the car in the automotive market, which most complies with all your opportunities and desires, it is necessary to very carefully examine the quality of its power unit.
at first we look at the non-working motor - On the subject / lack of the presence of oil drills, traces from the coolant - it indicates that this used engine overheated.
Traces of fueling oil on the engine can only be present in very small quantities. It is desirable that they are absolutely absent on the glands.
Remove the pipeconnecting the intake manifold and air filter (in turbocharged models - turbine and air filter). If there is a small amount of oil in the nozzle - then at best, evidence of a serious degree of contamination of the cutter gases or air filter, this is a consequence of the strong wear of the piston group.
Run a motor car. If he started not from a semolothip, then this fact It is necessary to perceive as the presence of some hidden defect. The check must be carried out several times, with different intervals between the launches. At the same time, it is not necessary to push the accelerator pedal and warm the candles - there is no need. If the seller insists on such actions, he intends to try to lead your attention from the hidden defect in the force unit.
When starting the engine, we draw attention to the exhaust. At idle turns on the hot engine, there should be no smoke. A permissible norm is only a small smoke emission at the start.
A small tapping in the engine (like "rolling pebbles") - for diesel engines is the norm, but the knocks that stand out from the entire background should be alerted to you - especially if they persist with increasing the number of revolutions.
Smoothly increase the rev. With idle slowly go to the value of 3,500 - 4000 thousand revolutions per minute, watching the engine - it should not shake and twitch.
Again, we do the same operation, however, it is necessary to evaluate the color of the exhaust. If, with an increase in revolutions, a nuclear ribbon smoke appears, this is evidence or late ignition, or other defects in the engine.
I sharply press the accelerator pedal and again observe the exhaust and the engine. If the motor shakes, and from the exhaust pipe comes from a gray torn smoke, then on those circulation, where it is observed, a significant loss of power will be seen.
In the case when the knocks or the exhaust pipe goes thick black smoke, it is better to pull out such a car from your list.
If everything is fine, continue to inspect. Compression in the motor must be checked in the service center (permissible value - at least 31, acceptable - 36 atmospheres, variation of values \u200b\u200bcan be more than two atmospheres). But on the spot it can be predetermined there. Carefully unscrew - with the engine running at idle - the neck cover for pouring oil. If when you try to put on the hole, the cover drops it with gas - it is naturally a bad sign.
However, if this does not happen - it is not at all a guarantee that there are no problems with compression. Diagnostics must be carried out on the service - there you can check the oil pressure in the highway at idle on the hot engine. The permissible value is one atmosphere if you have a turbocharged power unit, then at least one and a half atmospheres. Indications need to be removed using a mechanical pressure gauge.
It is clear that, without testing in real road conditions The quality of the motor's work is not to determine. Only by making in practice all possible modes of engine operation, you can understand whether it is working.
Tests in the boundary modes, of course, must continue during a couple of seconds - this will be enough for "diagnostics" of possible problems, but will not lead to their formation.
To check the health of the TNVD regulator, you need to drastically press and release the accelerator pedal. If the motor quickly returned to idle speed - everything is in good. If this happened slowly - the motor or turbine is defective.
Many motorists attract cars with diesel engine Because of their unpretentiousness, reliability and efficiency. However, when choosing a diesel engine, there are a number of nuances that need to be taken into account, otherwise you risk spending a solid amount of money to bring the engine to an acceptable state.
In this article we will tell, what exactly is worth paying attention to, and how to check the diesel engine when buying a car.
First, evaluate the engine condition just like when buying any other car: general form Engine, the presence of leaks of oil, nagar or corrosion foci. Also pay attention if the engine is too clean. Unlikely, the SUV, released in early 2000 will shine a power unit, may be trying to flow from you.
We also recommend that you (as well as when buying any other technology, especially with the hands) take someone with me who is better dealing in this topic and know how to check the diesel engine when buying a car. If the visual inspection arranged you, go to the next step: the start of the engine.
It is advisable to check how the engine starts in the cold season (well, or at least in the morning). The diesel engine must start from the semide, if it is necessary to rotate longer the starter - probably wear rings or piston.
Also try to start the heated engine - it is often a situation that the unheated engine is started immediately, and "hot" - only from the second-third time. This may indicate the wear of the piston rings or the non-working temperature sensor.
Next, it is necessary to check the smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe when the gas pedal is pressed. If he is black, most likely that the oilmaging rings and the oil enters the fuel. It is also possible to wear nozzles that is much worse.
If the smoke is present, but it is white - water falls into fuel (usually it can be recognized also on uneven operation of the engine on small revolutions, it works "jerks").
Follow the Open Oil Cover and see if the oil from under the oil-tank neck is not highlighted (sometimes it can even splash). The reasons may be many, in principle, it is quite amenable to eliminate, but the presence of such a defect will allow you to seriously bring down the price if everything else has arranged.
You should also appreciate the sound of the engine. The sound should be soft, but powerful, bass, without any kind of noise. Try to hear the sounds that are not included in the overall rhythm, as well as "drive" the engine on different revs.
If you are arranged this carAnd you still decided to take it, the first thing you need to do is to proceed to the compression measurement (although it is desirable to do it yet when buying). For a diesel engine optimal compression value of 25 atmospheres, although much depends on specific model Engine, but, as a rule, the compression of a lower indicator indicates faults.
And the smaller the difference in compression between the cylinders, the better (the optimal value is 0.5). From the used car of such a way to wait, of course, it does not have to, but if the scatter is really strong - it means that soon the engine will need to be overhauled.
Also, compression can be approximately evaluated and without special equipment (although it is desirable to use the compressometer). Unscrew the lid of the oil-tapping neck, but do not remove, and ask your comrade to hold the gas pedal. If the engine retracts the lid, there are no global problems if it pushes, it means that the size of the compression is much less necessary.
In addition, you should not warn the owner of the car that you will check compression, as there are additives that increase it. You will be misleading, and for the engine, these additives are not very useful.
In addition, immediately after purchase, you should buy a new timing belt (even despite the fact that the previous owner assured as if he set him a week ago). Moreover, it is advisable to take a corporate one, let the price and bite - if low-quality or worn the belt is brokenmay reverse the entire head of the cylinder block, and this is already completely different money (not to mention the belt can break at the most inopportune moment).
We hope that our article helped you understand how to check the diesel engine when buying a car, and you can choose the right car that will serve you for many years!
