How to assemble a carburetor?
A carburetor in a car is a must-have device. What it is for, read the article What does a carburetor do. There are situations when, for one reason or another, you have to independently deal with the issue of assembling the carburetor. How to properly assemble the carburetor to fix the malfunction?
Assembling the carburetor
If you disassembled the carburetor, then assemble it in exactly the reverse order. It is important that at the same time you do not have one extra bolt left. Remember to keep the engine and carburetor cold during assembly.
Build steps:
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ASSEMBLING THE CARBURETOR. How to assemble a classic Lada carburetor
How to assemble a carburetor
Assemble the carburetor, power supply systems of the car engine, sequentially, installing the removed earlier units and parts to their original places. When assembling the carburetor, follow the tips and recommendations below. Emulsion tubes, as well as air and fuel jets must be installed exclusively in their original places, and correspond to their calibration data.
We would like to draw your attention to the fact that the markings on the carburetor parts are made without taking into account the comma. For example, the marking of the main air jet is documented 1.70, on the jet-170. In addition, the jets of different carburetor systems visually differ from each other, it is possible to confuse the main fuel jets of the first and second chambers with each other. The assembly of the carburetor should be carried out taking into account the data in the table below. The diameters of the holes of the main fuel jet:
| Diffuser diameter, mm | 21/25 |
| Hole diameters, mm | 12345 |
| Main fuel jet | 1,07/1,62 |
| Main air jet | 1,70 |
| Fuel jet idler and transition systems | 0,50/0,60 |
| Air jet idler and transition systems | 1,70/ 0,70 |
| Accelerating Pump Sprayer | 0,40/- |
| Accelerator pump bypass nozzle | 0,40/- |
| Fuel jet econostat | -/ 1,50 |
| Econostat air jet | -/1,20 |
| Econostat emulsion jet | -/ 1,50 |
| Emulsion tube calibration number | F 15 |
| Compound sprayer calibration number | 3,5/4,5 |
| Accelerating pump feed for 10 cycles, cm3 | 7+25% |
| Distance from the float to the carburetor cover with a gasket, mm | 6,5+ 0,25 |
| Starting gaps at the dampers, mm | 12345 |
| Air | 5,5+ 0,25 |
| Droselnaya | 0,9-1,0 |
In order not to damage the external thread on the nozzle and the internal thread in the bore, center the nozzle relative to the threaded hole so that it twists evenly, without distortions.
In order to establish the correct stroke of the diaphragms of the starting device and the accelerating pump, and thereby extend the service life, it is necessary, when assembling the covers, not to tighten the fastening screws completely. Push the diaphragm rod of the trigger device until it stops by hand, tighten the cover fixing screws crosswise. Pull the accelerator pump drive lever to the limit, tighten the fastening screws, in the same way as in the previous case.
When installing the throttle and air valve, do not under any circumstances change the screws removed from the valve axles by any other. It is necessary to tighten the flaps fastening screws evenly, and then flare the end of the screws with a core. In order not to bend the axes of the shutters, it is necessary to rest the heads of the screws against the metal stand. The screws are flared so that they do not loosen and fall into the combustion chamber, as this will lead to serious engine damage and not small material costs. When tightening the fastening nuts of the levers on the axles of the throttle valves, the axles should not wedge. If the axles wedge, slightly loosen the fastening screws of the dampers, in the air ducts, move the dampers so that they are not pinched, then tighten and lock the end of the screws.
In the image, the arrow shows the place where the solder is located, which is partially removed if the float exceeds the weight of 12.5 grams. If there is no weighting solder on the float, file with a file to the desired weight at the junction of the two parts of the float.
Never replace washers and springs previously removed from the carburetor with others. The assembly of the carburetor should take place without the use of any kind of sealing means. Adjust assemblies and parts according to the recommendations.
doctorvaz.ru
How to disassemble and assemble the K-151 carburetor
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It is not recommended to loosen the screws securing the throttle valves on the axles and remove the valves unless absolutely necessary, since their displacement can lead to jamming of the valves in the channels.
The brass connecting pipes of the channels pressed into the body should not be removed in order to avoid a violation of their tightness.
Disassemble the carburetor only as a last resort if flushing and blowing with compressed air without disassembling does not eliminate the sticking of the throttle and air dampers and does not lead to complete cleaning of the nozzles and channels from deposits.
1. Disconnect the choke rod 1 of the air damper drive from the profile lever by removing the cotter pin 2 from the hole at its bent end.
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2. Remove the seven screws securing the cover to the body and remove the carburetor cover. |
3. Unscrew the two screws securing the throttle body and disengage the connecting shackle and remove the body. |
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4. Unscrew the three screws 1 securing and remove the cover 2 of the vacuum diaphragm of the carburetor starting device. |
5. On the reverse side of the carburetor cover, disengage the bent end of the diaphragm rod of the carburetor starting device from the trigger lever. Remove diaphragm 1 from carburetor cover. |
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6. Disconnect the air damper pull-back spring 1 from the cover pin. Unscrew the two screws 2 fastening and remove the cover 3 of the ventilation duct of the float chamber. Unscrew the fastening screw 4 and remove the econostat nozzle 5. |
7. Unscrew the fastening screws and remove the levers of the starter drive. |
- Carefully remove the heat-insulating gasket from the bottom flange of the housing.
avtomechanic.ru
How to disassemble and assemble the carburetor yourself
Above, I have already noted that the carburetor is a rather complex device. Therefore, it is not recommended to remove and disassemble it yourself, unless, of course, you are a car mechanic with many years of experience. However, some kind of malfunction can make itself felt at the most inopportune moment - for example, on a long journey, and you will have to fix it on your own. That is why this subsection tells you how to do this.
Attention!
Remember that it is only allowed to remove and replace the carburetor, as well as tighten the fastening nuts when the engine and carburetor are cold.
On most vehicles, the air pump will need to be removed first to remove the carburetor. After that, you need to disconnect the cable and the return spring from the throttle valve control sector. Then remove the choke drive rod together with its shell, unscrew the fastening screw and remove the block designed for heating the carburetor. After that, you must disconnect the electrical wires of the carburetor limit switch (some cars use a device called a forced idle economizer). Next, unscrew the nuts with which the carburetor is attached, remove it and be sure to close the inlet of the intake pipe with a plug or a sheet of paper so that dust, debris, etc. do not get into it.
Installing the carburetor in its place is carried out in the reverse order.
Dismantling the carburetor is as follows. First unscrew the screws holding the carburetor cover and remove it. When performing this operation, be extremely careful, otherwise the float, econostat tubes, gasket and other "delicate" parts can be damaged. Please note that if something happens to them, most likely you will not fix the malfunction on your own.
If disassembly of the carburetor cover is required, then the first thing to do is to carefully push the axis of the floats out of the struts with a mandrel and remove them. After that, remove the cover gasket, and also unscrew the needle valve seat, fuel line, and then remove the fuel filter.
Next, you need to get the idle system actuator and its fuel jet. Then you need to remove the liquid chamber, having previously unscrewed the corresponding bolt, remove the clamp for securing the housing of the bimetallic spring, as well as the spring with the screen. After that, remove the cover and housing of the semi-automatic starting device, diaphragm, throttle lever rod, adjusting screw, plunger stop.
The accelerator pump sprayer is removed with the valve. The nebulizers of both chambers must be carefully removed from the diffusers. Then you should unscrew the nut of the throttle valve of the first chamber of the carburetor, remove the pump drive cam and the washer. Next, unscrew the mounting screw, remove it and take out the electrical wire that goes to the idle mixture amount adjusting screw.
Then take the screw and use it to remove the plastic plug, and then unscrew the screw that regulates the composition of the working mixture for the engine idling.
After that, remove the actuator of the main dosing system, as well as the nozzle, then the return spring from the diaphragm together with the O-ring.
Unscrew main air jets and main fuel jets.
The carburetor should be assembled in the reverse order of disassembly. When doing this, keep the following in mind:
The needle valve must move freely in the seat, smoothly and without jamming - otherwise the engine will be unstable;
Assemble the accelerating pump as follows: first, tighten the fastening screws, then press the drive lever all the way, then tighten the screws and release the lever;
The float must be free and not touch the walls of the chambers;
Do not mix up the jets (this is one of the most common mistakes that motorists make when disassembling and assembling the carburetor on their own), for which you should carefully monitor their markings, and also take into account the calibration data of your carburetor.
Remember: disassembling and assembling the carburetor does not accept any trifles - everything must be done clearly and correctly. Otherwise, the "appetite" of your "four-wheeled horse" can increase significantly.
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How to Assemble Carburetor Trimmer EVDIRAL.RU
Do-it-yourself carburetor adjustment for petrol cutters
Petrolcutters, like all petrol powered tools for the garden, are not difficult to maintain. It is possible and necessary to repair, configure without the help of others. For example, adjusting the carburetor of a petrol cutter with your own hands is a matter of 5 minutes.
The carburetor from the petrol cutter is a unit in the power system. How to independently assemble a handle on a carver trimmer, the trimmer handle broke. In it, like all carburetors, there is a process of mixing air and fuel (gasoline) for the forthcoming supply to the engine cylinders.
In this process, the main thing is the correct proportion of fuel and air, which is why the carburetor is regulated.
The main problems and malfunctions of the carburetor.
Mesh filter. With this element, most often there are only two tasks:
In order to find out the cause of the breakdown, the fuel filter cap is unscrewed to remove the strainer. If dirt has simply accumulated on it, then flushing in gasoline or blowing will help.
If there is visible damage to the mesh filter, it is imperative to install a new one. There may also be damage to the fuel supply pipe (during repairs, they practice checking this element).
Cleaning the carburetor trimmer
Disassembly and flaw detection of the MZA-102 carburetor installed on low-power two-stroke engines with a volume
Gas trimmer carburetor. Disassembly.
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Fuel is sucked into the carburetor system by a pump (its membrane). Then it goes through the choke in the carburetor. Then the liquid moves through the inlet and outlet valves of the pump. Filtered by the grid. It moves through the needle valve into the diaphragm chamber.
Phased operation of the device:
- Air supply to a tube with an air baffle (damper). The baffle regulates the intensity of the air flow.
- The fuel supply system is necessarily narrowed by the mixer to speed up the flow.
- Gasoline through the float chamber and the nozzle tube with a constriction. How to replace the carburetor on the srm-22 ges echo trimmer, well, first of all, it is necessary to carry out the correct diagnostics and only after making sure that the carburetor is not repairable, replace it. A float chamber adjusts the temporary volume of gasoline. In the float chamber, the pressure level is neutral, and in the tube with a constriction it is already small. Due to the pressure drop, the fuel seeps through the jet.
- The acceleration of the air flow facilitates the transfer of fuel (gasoline) and its atomization. Ultimately, an air-fuel mixture of the desired proportion or density appears.
- The air / fuel mixture seeps into the engine cylinder through the fuel pipe.
The level of air density in the system depends on the area of the open air damper. How to repair a starter on a trimmer with your own hands. How to disassemble and assemble the starter, wind the spring and replace the cord. The wider the throttle is open, the greater the fuel consumption and power.
Simply put, adjusting the carburetor on a petrol cutter is the creation of a good fuel consistency due to the correct air supply.
How to adjust the carburetor on a petrol cutter
We remove the upper part (cover) of the carburetor, having previously unscrewed, with a Phillips screwdriver, the five screws of its fastening to the body.
Five screws securing the carburetor cover 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex
See How to Remove Top - Solex Carburetor Cover for details.
We disassemble it first.
Removing the upper part (cover) of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex
Using a thin punch (2.5 mm) and a light hammer, knock out the axis of the floats.
Removing the axis of the floats on the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex
We extract it and remove the floats. We work carefully so as not to damage the cover posts, into which this axis is threaded, and also to prevent deformation of the float bracket.
Remove the cardboard gasket from the "cover".
Floats, needle valve and cardboard gasket removed from carburetor cover
We turn out the body of the needle valve.
For this we use an open-end or box spanner for 11. Disconnect the body and its copper (or aluminum) sealing ring.
Unscrewing the needle valve body from the carburetor cover 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex
We turn out with a key 13 the solenoid valve of the EPHH system.
Removing the solenoid valve from the carburetor cover
Remove the rubber O-ring and metal cup from it. We take out the fuel jet of the idle system.
Solenoid valve device
We unscrew, using a key 13, the carburetor fuel filter plug.
We take it out together with a copper O-ring and a strainer.
We turn out the fuel supply fitting.
We do this with a key of 13. Take out the fitting and its copper sealing ring.
Fuel inlet fitting and fuel strainer removed from the Solex carburetor cover
Remove the choke control lever.
To do this, use a 14 key to unscrew the bolt of its attachment to the "lid" and carefully, trying not to lose, separate the fixing ball under it. Then we take out the ball and the compression spring under it.
Removing the Solex carburetor choke control lever
We disassemble the starting device.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the four screws securing its cover. We take it back, while simultaneously removing the thrust on the diaphragm from engagement with the pin on the lever and then from the grooves in the device body. It is most convenient to keep the air damper open while doing this. Remove the cover, the diaphragm with the rod and the spring under it.
Elements of the carburetor starting device 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex
Remove the spring of the air damper opening mechanism.
We remove the carburetor air damper by unscrewing the two screws securing it on the axle with a Phillips screwdriver. If the screws do not loosen, file their ends with a file. After that, the axle is freely removed from the cover.
Removing the air damper opening spring, removing the air damper itself and removing its axis
All the cover is disassembled.
We disassemble the body of carburetors 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex
Remove the rubber sealing ring on the idle air channel tube.
Rubber O-ring on the idle fuel channel pipe
Remove the air damper ("suction") drive rod fastening bracket by unscrewing its fastening screw with a Phillips screwdriver.
Removing the bracket for fastening the shell of the air damper drive of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex
We remove the air jets of the main dosing systems together with the emulsion tubes.
On carburetors of the 2108 Solex family, they are structurally combined. Therefore, we turn them out of the emulsion wells with a slotted screwdriver.
Extraction of GDS air jets with emulsion tubes from emulsion wells of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex
We take out the spray of the accelerating pump.
To do this, use a slotted screwdriver to pry it under its upper nose and gently push it up. Remove the rubber O-ring from the sprayer body.
Removing the carburetor accelerator pump sprayer 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex
We turn out the fuel jets of the main metering systems with a thin slotted screwdriver.
They are located at the bottom of the emulsion wells. After turning them out, you can get them out of there with a toothpick or simply shake them out.
Removing GDS fuel jets from emulsion wells
We take out the small diffusers from both chambers of the carburetor.
The easiest way to get them is with pliers.
Removing diffusers
We disassemble the accelerating pump.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the four screws securing its cover. We remove it together with the diaphragm and the return spring. If the parts do not separate well, you can try to disconnect them with a knife.
We disassemble the economizer of power modes.
We unscrew the three screws securing its cover to the carburetor body with a Phillips screwdriver. We remove it, as well as the diaphragm and the spring. Unscrew the economizer jet with a slotted screwdriver and remove it. We do not touch the economizer valve unnecessarily.
Elements of the economizer of power modes of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex
Remove the screw for adjusting the "amount" of the fuel mixture.
Prying with a slotted screwdriver, disconnect the wire contact from the screw tip. We unscrew the screw and remove it and the spring on it. We unscrew the screw of the plastic wire holder with a slotted screwdriver and remove the wire from the carburetor body.
Removing the screw for adjusting the "amount" of the fuel mixture from the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex
Remove the throttle valve control sector.
We unscrew the screw of its fastening with a Phillips screwdriver. We remove the bracket located on the sector, pry the sector with a screwdriver, forcefully separate it from the throttle valve drive lever.
Removing the first chamber throttle control sector
Use a thin slotted screwdriver to unscrew the “quality” screw of the fuel mixture from the channel in the carburetor body and grab it with tweezers and remove it from there.
Remove the rubber O-ring from it. Sometimes, when the screw is turned out, the ring remains in the bore of the carburetor body. From there you can get it with an awl.
We remove the cam of the accelerator pump drive from the throttle valve axis of the first chamber by unscrewing the nut of its fastening with a key 11. There is a special washer under the cam, we also remove it.
We remove the cam of the accelerator pump drive
We remove the throttle valves of both chambers of the carburetor.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screws for their fastening to the axles. If the screws do not loosen, then their ends are riveted. We grind them down a little with a file.
Removing the throttle valves of both chambers of the carburetor 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex
We take out the axes of the dampers.
Remove the spring and the plastic sleeve from the axis of the first chamber. To remove the axle of the second chamber, we pry it with a screwdriver and remove the axle lock washer.
Throttle shafts removed
1. Carburetor body 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex.
2. The axis of the throttle valve of the first chamber of the carburetor.
3. Axle of the throttle valve of the second chamber of the carburetor.
4. Throttle valves of the first and second chambers.
5. Throttle valve mounting screws.
6. Return spring of the axis of the first chamber.
7. Plastic washer.
8. Metal washer.
9. Cam of the pressure accelerating pump of the carburetor.
10. Nut for fastening the cam UN.
11. The lock washer of the throttle valve shaft of the first chamber.
The entire carburetor is disassembled.
We assemble the Solex carburetor in the reverse order.
When tightening the screw connections, do not apply much force, in order to avoid deformation or damage to the thread.
Notes and additions
It is not necessary to press out the idle air jet from the carburetor cover, as well as the fuel pick-up tubes of the econostat and the transition system of the second chamber, unnecessarily. You can damage their seats. The same applies to pressing out the air jet, the jet of the starting device, the economizer valve of the power modes, the fittings of the crankcase ventilation system and the selection of the vacuum to the vacuum corrector, and the fuel draining into the tank.
If it is not necessary to remove the carburetor choke, do not remove it. Loosening screws with sawn threads can damage the threads in the axles. In addition, when the damper is installed back, it may be displaced relative to its previous position, which will lead to its incomplete opening or closing, which is fraught with a malfunction of the carburetor and the impossibility of its normal adjustment.
Everything written above applies to the removal and installation of the throttle valves of both chambers. If you still have to take them off, mark their original position just in case.
Five more articles on the Solex carburetor repair site
Checking and repairing the accelerator pump of carburetors 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex.
Checking and repairing the economizer of power modes of carburetors 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex.
Assembling the upper part (cover) of the Solex carburetor
CIP cleaning of carburetors 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex with carburetor cleaner aerosol.
Cleaning the idling system of carburetors 2108, 21081, 21083 Solex.
twokarburators.ru
Vaz 21099 - how to properly assemble a carburetor
After the carburetor is completely disassembled, you can proceed to repair, flushing and subsequent assembly. To assemble a carburetor on a VAZ 21099 car, you will need the same standard set of tools, then do the following sequence of actions:
- Place the carburetor lid and body in a pot of acetone to let them dry.
- Check the condition of the fuel filter, if it is damaged or it is impossible to wash and blow it out, replace it with a new one.
- Inspect the condition of the gasket between the cover and body. If it has tears, is strongly compressed, then replace it with a new one.
- Visually inspect the float. It must be airtight, which can be checked by immersing it in a container of gasoline for a few minutes. The presence of liquid inside will indicate a violation of the tightness, which means it must be replaced. Next, inspect the sides of the float, if they have traces of contact with the walls, bend its levers.
- Check the solenoid valve.
- Check the booster pump.
- Carefully inspect the parts of the starter and economizer. Their return springs should not have deformations, otherwise replace them, it is also necessary to replace them in case of loss of elasticity. Diaphragms are considered unusable if there are tears, abrasions, or the material has lost its elasticity. As for the covers, they should not have chips, cracks, deformations of the mating plane.
- Remove the carburetor body and cover from the bath and blow out all openings and channels with compressed air. The same applies to filters, jets, accelerator pump nozzles, emulsion tubes. It is strictly forbidden to clean the jets with a thin metal wire, as this can lead to an increase in the inner diameter, scoring and other defects. How much should the battery give out under load
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