Engine Lada Kalina 1.6 8 valve well known to our drivers. After all, its history goes back to the advanced (for its time) VAZ 2108 engine. Since then, the power unit has gone through a huge amount of modernization. But the basic design parameters remained unchanged. Today we’ll talk in more detail about this power unit. 
Gasoline power unit Lada Kalina VAZ-11186 with a power of 87 hp. with a displacement of 1.6 liters, it replaced the VAZ-11183 injection engine developing 82 horsepower. The new lightweight piston group from Federal Mogul managed to increase the power and efficiency of the power unit. Of course, the engine is not distinguished by enchanting dynamics and low fuel consumption, but its relatively simple design and maintainability allow us to talk about a good option for our harsh operating conditions.
As for the technical part, it is based on a cast-iron cylinder block, an aluminum head, an aluminum cylinder head cover, and a steel engine sump. In the timing drive Lada Kalina 8-cl. there is a belt. The eight-valve timing mechanism does not have hydraulic compensators; valve adjustment occurs rarely, but the process is quite painstaking. It is necessary to select “nickels” of different thicknesses and place them between the camshaft cams and the bottoms of the pusher cups. The first time such a procedure is carried out is at the so-called “0” zero maintenance, after 3000 km.
The age-old question Do the valves bend on the Kalina engine? VAZ-11186 when the timing belt breaks? The answer is clear, when the belt breaks the valve is bent! The engine is paired with a 5-speed manual transmission; no other options are provided.
Engine Lada Kalina 1.6 (87 hp), fuel consumption, dynamics
- Working volume – 1597 cm3
- Number of cylinders/valves – 4/8
- Timing drive - belt
- Cylinder diameter – 82 mm
- Piston stroke – 75.6 mm
- Power hp/kW – 87/64 at 5100 rpm
- Torque – 140 Nm at 3800 rpm
- Maximum speed – 168 kilometers per hour
- Acceleration to the first hundred – 12.2 seconds
- Fuel consumption in the city – 9.0 liters
- Fuel consumption in the combined cycle – 6.6 liters
- Fuel consumption on the highway - 5.8 liters
Timing diagram Lada Kalina 8 valves
- 1 - crankshaft toothed pulley
- 2 - coolant pump toothed pulley
- 3 - tension roller
- 4 - rear protective cover
- 5 - camshaft gear pulley
- 6 - timing belt
- A - tide on the rear protective cover
- B - mark on the camshaft pulley
- C - mark on the oil pump cover
- D - mark on the crankshaft pulley.
Another feature of the engine is the location of the water pump (pump), which is rotated by the same timing belt. That is, in case of coolant leaks or characteristic noise/whistle/hum in the timing drive area, checking the belt is mandatory. If the pump bearing crumbles and the belt comes off, then in addition to replacing the water pump housing and belt, you will also have to go through the cylinder head, removing bent valves from there.
In 2004, the AvtoVAZ plant began producing a new model built on the VAZ 2108 platform. The new product was named “Kalina” and is currently in its second generation. The use of the G8 base was reflected in almost all units and components of the car - many of them were carried over from its predecessor, including power plants. In 2013, Lada received its first major update and from that moment on it is better known as Kalina-2. Until 2013, the line of engines was represented by a 16-valve 1.4-liter engine and 8 or 16-valve units with a volume of 1.6 liters (what kind of oil is poured into them and how much will be discussed later).
The second generation of Kalina looks more like a small restyling than a full-fledged generation. Its debut took place at the international exhibition in Moscow in 2012. The list of changes included a new design, a new engine and an improved transmission. So, now the model looks more dynamic and this is supported by the power data under the hood (87-106 hp). The engines operate in tandem with a manual or automatic transmission, depending on the configuration. The basis for the second Kalina was the VAZ-11186 engine with 87 hp. and a volume of 1.6 liters (8 liters). With its help, the car reaches the first hundred in 12.6 seconds on MT and in 14.2 seconds on AT. As for fuel economy, there are no surprises here - the usual 7.1-8.0 liters per 100 km, depending on the installed gearbox and engine size. In 2014, Kalina Cross with high ground clearance and a 120-horsepower 1.6-liter unit became available to customers.
According to its characteristics, Lada Kalina took a place on a par with the budget Skoda Fabia, Hyundai Solaris and Renault Logan. Despite the traditional problems with reliability and quality in the domestic automobile industry, this model is perfectly suited for Russian roads and offers a completely new level of comfort for the driver and passengers.
Generation 1 (2004 - 2013)
Engine VAZ 21114/11183 1.6 8 valves 81 hp.
- When to change oil: 15000
Engine VAZ 11194 1.4 16 valves 89 hp.
- What kind of engine oil is filled from the factory (original): Synthetic 5W30
- Oil types (by viscosity): 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-40, 15W-40
- How many liters of oil in the engine (total volume): 3.5 liters.
- Oil consumption per 1000 km: up to 100 ml.
- When to change oil: 15000
Engine Priora 21126 1.6 16 valves 98 hp
- What kind of engine oil is filled from the factory (original): Synthetic 5W30
- Oil types (by viscosity): 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-40, 15W-40
- How many liters of oil in the engine (total volume): 3.5 liters.
- Oil consumption per 1000 km: up to 50 ml.
- When to change oil: 15000
Generation 2 (2013 - present)
Engine VAZ 21116/11186 1.6l. (Granta engine) 8 valves 87 hp.
- What kind of engine oil is filled from the factory (original): Synthetic 5W30
- Oil types (by viscosity): 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-40, 15W-40
- How many liters of oil in the engine (total volume): 3.5 liters.
- Oil consumption per 1000 km: up to 50 ml.
- When to change oil: 15000
Priora engine 21126 and 21127 1.6 16 valves 98 hp. and 106 hp
- What kind of engine oil is filled from the factory (original): Synthetic 5W30
- Oil types (by viscosity): 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-40, 15W-40
- How many liters of oil in the engine (total volume): 3.5 liters.
- Oil consumption per 1000 km: up to 50 ml.
- When to change oil: 15000
Before becoming the owner of a Lada Kalina, each owner decides for himself which type of engine to choose from those presented by the plant. Which one is better can only be judged by the owner himself, based on his needs, but the advantages and disadvantages of all types can be considered, and for those who have not yet made their choice, the article will be useful.
- So let's start in chronological order. At first, the Lada Kalina began to be produced with conventional eight-valve engines with a volume of 1.6 liters. The power of such a device is 82 horsepower and it has a torque of 132 Nm at 3800 rpm. The engine is far from new; one might say, it’s still the same eight-cylinder engine, slightly improved. Moreover, it has already stood the test of time for almost 30 years, since the VAZ 2108 began to be produced with it in 1984, only it had smaller engines. A fairly reliable power unit, 82 horses are enough to accelerate Kalina to 100 km/h in 13.5 seconds. The engine is quite torquey and pulls very well even at the lowest revs. It goes uphill confidently, even on long climbs the car does not slow down, but rather picks it up. The advantage of an 8-valve power unit is that if the timing belt breaks, the valves on such an engine do not meet the pistons, and accordingly, the valves do not bend if the timing belt breaks. Fuel consumption at a speed of 90 km/h is no more than 5.5 liters per 100 km. A strange feature of this type is a strange bubbling sound, a certain strange sound when working, as if it were diesel, but over time you get used to it and this sound becomes normal to the ear.
- After AvtoVAZ began producing the Lada Priora car, Kalina began to install more powerful power units with a 16-valve cylinder head and a volume of 1.6 liters. It is capable of developing power up to 98 horsepower, data from official sources of the manufacturer's plant. But many owners tested this option on stands and the results were impressive - the average power was about 110 horsepower. They say that the manufacturer deliberately, so to speak, deliberately reduced the power according to the documents, so that domestic consumers and owners would not pay extra money for transport tax, because after the 100 hp mark. Transport tax increases sharply. Torque is 145 Nm at 4000 rpm. Kalina with such an engine accelerates quite quickly, according to some measurements in 12 seconds to hundreds. Fuel consumption is slightly less; at the same speed of 90 km/h you will have to spend a little less gasoline, by about 0.5 liters. The dynamics of the car are certainly superior to an 8-valve car, and the maximum speed is 20 km/h higher - 185 km/h. But the torque of this engine is inferior to the 8-valve one; uphill you will most likely have to switch from fifth to fourth speed. And one more drawback of such a powerful 16-valve device: if the timing belt breaks, you will have to fork out a decent amount, since bending of the valves cannot be avoided, and repairs after such a breakdown are very expensive, averaging from 15,000 rubles.
- A few years later, after Kalina was already driving around with a 16-valve power unit from Priora, another one appeared, with a smaller volume, and also with a 16-valve head. This option was inferior in power to the 1.6 16-cl engine, but superior to the 8-valve one. So, let's say a certain average, power 90 horsepower and torque 127 Nm at 4500 rpm. Due to its small volume, fuel consumption has naturally become lower, and at a maximum permitted speed of 90 km/h on Russian public roads, this power unit may not even cross the 5 liters per 100 km mark. The dynamics of the car are quite decent and with such a small volume of 1.4 liters, the car accelerates faster than a 1.6 8-valve. The disadvantage is the same as that of the most powerful one from Priora - the valve bends if the timing belt breaks.
Short description
The VAZ 11183 engine is used for installation in cars of the (Lada Kalina) and (LADA Granta) families. This engine is still the same, the design of the block, cylinder head, camshaft, valve mechanisms and crank mechanism does not differ from the version of the VAZ 21114 engine. So we can say with confidence that these engines are the same, but have different names.
The 11183 engine is characterized by increased environmental friendliness, elasticity, reliability, and increased volume compared to the 2111 internal combustion engine. The engine life is approximately 200 thousand km. The timing belt is driven by a timing belt, and if it breaks, the valves do not bend, due to pistons from 2110 with deep recesses. A characteristic feature of the engine is its noise during operation, reminiscent of a diesel engine.
Engine characteristics VAZ 11183 1.6 8V Lada Kalina
| Parameter | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Configuration | L |
| Number of cylinders | 4 |
| Volume, l | 1,596 |
| Cylinder diameter, mm | 82 |
| Piston stroke, mm | 75,6 |
| Compression ratio | 9,6 |
| Number of valves per cylinder | 2 (1-inlet; 1-outlet) |
| Gas distribution mechanism | SOHC |
| Cylinder operating order | 1-3-4-2 |
| Rated engine power / at engine speed | 60 kW-(80.9 hp) / 5200 rpm |
| Maximum torque/at engine speed | 120 N m / 2500-2700 rpm |
| Supply system | distributed injection with electronic control |
| Recommended minimum octane number of gasoline | 95 |
| Environmental standards | Euro 2, Euro 3 |
| Weight, kg | 112 |
Design
Four-stroke engine with distributed fuel injection, with in-line cylinders and pistons rotating a common crankshaft, with two overhead camshafts. The engine has a closed-type liquid cooling system with forced circulation. Combined lubrication system: under pressure and splashing.
I bought a Lada Kalina 1.6 8cl. with a station wagon (Norma) at the end of October 2009. at the Vostok-Lada car showroom (Tolyatti). Now the mileage of my Kalina is 55,000 km. At that time, station wagons with a pleasant color “Columbia green” (light green metallic) appeared on sale. I still think this color suits this body type perfectly. Before that I had a VAZ-2111 2005 car. with the same 1.6 engine.
The first impression was pleasant, I liked almost everything, in comparison with the “tens” and Priors, the Kalina has a more spacious interior, the process of getting in and out of the car is more convenient. I noticed the high-quality assembly and painting of the body; the gaps are uniform and neat almost everywhere. The assembly of the interior also left a pleasant impression, especially the light plastic, which creates the impression of spaciousness and lightness in the cabin.
But I will also note some not very pleasant moments during the first kilometers of operation. The electric power steering on Kalina is a very necessary and pleasant thing to use, I still don’t like the “buzzing” sound of its operation, but so far there are no problems with it. The next day after the purchase, Kalina did not want to start (the electronic code from the ignition key could not be read), I had to drag it on a strap to the Mika service center (Dimitrovgrad, Ulyanovsk region), because He is now the only one in our city with a guarantee. As a result, they did a paid “reflash” of the controller, and the machine started up. But soon (after 20,000 km) the immobilizer unit had to be changed for the same reason.
These were the first surprises. The second surprise popped up just after the first (and last) maintenance - the rear windshield wiper motor stopped working, they replaced it 2 months later (!) under warranty. In general, warranty service for VAZs is a separate and sad story.
While getting acquainted with Kalina, I noticed that, like all VAZ cars, it has poor noise and vibration insulation. The main source of noise and vibration is the high-torque and grumbling 8-valve 1.6 engine in company with a howling gearbox. Therefore, I recommend that all owners install additional, and maybe even basic, sound insulation of the interior, especially the engine shield and instrument panel. Another source of noise is the knocking noise from the front shock absorbers when they rebound. Well, this is a design feature of SAAZ shock absorbers, they have insufficient rebound force, and I still drive with these knocks.
After buying the car, while undergoing technical inspection at the traffic police, the “injector” light suddenly came on on the panel, the engine worked without interruptions and failures, it started, but for this “glitch” I had to pay 500 rubles past the cash register, which is what you won’t do for the coveted coupon, although It's such a shame, it's a new car! Then, during the diagnostics, it turned out that there was an error in the operation of the rough road sensor, we open the hood, but it is not there, only the connector to it hangs. The electrician advised me not to buy it, but to rewrite the engine control program for Euro-2 (without sensor) for 500 rubles. That's what I did, the glitch no longer appeared, and the engine on 92 gasoline began to pull more confidently. For the winter, I advise you to replace the factory spark plugs with imported analogues (for example, NGK No. 10, excellent and inexpensive spark plugs).
You may also have to deal with extraneous sounds in the cabin, for example, the itching sound of the gearshift lever, itching from under the instrument panel, the rattling of the flimsy plastic sides of the rear parcel shelf and the rear door panel, and tight pedals are also worth paying attention to. I finished it all, lubricated it, glued it, changed it, secured it differently. As a result, I was quite happy with my work; the cabin became much quieter.
I read in the reviews here, the owners write about comfortable seats, but I want to say on my own – the seats are bad. The front ones have too short and soft a cushion with a backrest pushing out, and the rear seats really lack headrests (it turns out that this is an almost unavailable option from the factory, even in the Luxury).
Many owners praise Kalina for its high ground clearance, yes, a very useful advantage for our roads, I also like it, but this results in poor directional stability on the highway; after 120 km/h the car requires constant steering and movement correction, especially on poor-quality asphalt. I replaced the factory upper supports with tuning ones (manufactured by Asomi, Tolyatti, 2200 rubles per set), and immediately noticed improvements. Firstly, the “Caster” angle increased to “+”, the car began to hold a straight line better, and secondly, the smoothness of the front suspension improved, and bumps began to hit the steering wheel more softly.
At 22,000 km, the alternator belt (manufactured in Balakovo) began to fall apart, changed it to “Caesar”! (150 rubles), failures appeared during acceleration, and the engine began to start worse. The spark plugs are normal, the injector flame is normal, I changed the fuel filter, it didn’t get any better. I climbed into the gas tank, took out the fuel pump and saw a cracked corrugated return hose. Somehow I found it from friends, and at the same time changed the pump intake grid. It helped.
I advise you to change your original wipers, they squeak terribly and only clean well for the first three months. I installed the proven "Champion" (400 rubles). In Kalina, like all front-wheel drive VAZs, the rear springs quickly sag; when fully loaded, the rear wheels rub against the locker, and the studded wheels quickly rub them to holes. I put the spacers under the rear shock absorbers in the lowest position (3 cm), the rear of the car rose a little, but the ride and braking did not become worse.
A special word for the factory front pads - they're kind of terrible! They brake so-so, but they grind and squeak so much that pedestrians are scared. I tried to install imported “Nobel” ones and was not mistaken, sometimes they squeak a little, but they slow down the car well, and they lasted for 45,000 km, the brake discs wore out evenly and will still serve.
Recently a knocking sound appeared in the steering rack, specialists from the Mika car dealership with a smart face convinced me that this is a design flaw of the unit, and cannot be “treated” in any way, even by tightening the adjusting nut, only replacing it with a new one. I went to trusted specialists in a regular workshop (STO "Maria"), where they take care of everything. The mechanic said that the slats on Kaliny are almost no different structurally from the “tenth” slats and can be repaired without much difficulty. When we disassembled the rack, it turned out that there was almost no lubricant in it, it was running dry. We changed cheap washers and bushings, filled it with Litol, put it back, and it worked better than new.
Since new on Kalina, the CV joints have been cracking under load, over time the cracking has disappeared, they probably “filled a groove”, the door seals turned out to be delicate - they began to tear at the driver’s door, the relay for turning on the electric cooling fan periodically “stuck”, the third relay so far doesn't bother. The engine operates under intense thermal conditions in the summer, the temperature does not drop below 90, which is affected by the small engine compartment and an unfinished cooling system.
I would like to note that the factory paints bumpers without a primer, so when chipped, especially after washing, the paint begins to peel off from them like paper, revealing the blackness of the plastic. When choosing a new car, try to choose one with Bor glasses; Chinese ones quickly get scratched and worn out by wipers. On station wagons, I advise you to throw away the factory rear shelf and install a tuning one made of moisture-resistant plywood, covered with carpet (RUR 1,500), it’s worth it.
Overall, I like the car and intend to drive it for a long time. Undeniable advantages: torquey and high-torque 1.6 engine, excellent visibility, spacious and warm interior, excellent maneuverability, good looks, good headlights, good comfort, they also say that Kalina has a strong and corrosion-resistant body.
The main disadvantages are: poor sound insulation of the interior, poor directional stability, noisy and vibration-loaded 1.6 8-cylinder engine, noisy gearbox operation, lack of rear head restraints (if rear seat belts are present), small engine compartment space for engine maintenance. And with such a level of quality, our cars simply must be simple and cheap to maintain, otherwise there’s no point in buying them.
Otherwise, this is a typical VAZ semi-finished product (Priora included), made with the expectation of a “handy” owner, who in the future, and at his own expense, will bring the car to the “final product” and try to love it for at least something. Today, among domestic cars of this class and for such a price, I consider the purchase of Kalina quite justified.
Having studied the front suspension and read articles in the magazine "Behind the wheel" for 2009, I came to the following conclusion. Since the end of 2008 The VAZ plant began installing barrel springs (possibly even foreign-made) in the front suspension, instead of conventional coil springs, supposedly to improve the car’s handling and reduce weight. The design of the shock absorber body itself has also changed. These "barrel" springs have a higher compression force than the previous ones. But for some reason, the manufacturer of the SAAZ struts did not take this into account and did not reconfigure the characteristics of the shock absorber for rebound, changing only the design of the spring cup.
Usually, serious manufacturers of tuning shock absorbers for VAZs (such as SS20, Acomi, TorgMash) increase the rebound force by up to 30% for normal and stable operation of the shock absorber, but the plant simply does not need this. As a result, the spring forcefully throws the front of the car up, and the strut cannot really prevent this, and the valve on the rod constantly knocks on the upper damper. In general, the Skopin struts on all front-wheel drive VAZs start tapping from birth. I would like to hear the opinion of at least one factory specialist on this matter.
I also noticed, when my Kalina was hanging on a lift, dents in the lower part of the cutouts in the front mudguards (where the tie rod with the tip goes) on both sides. Such dents can only be left by the steering rods, touching and resting during the maximum downward stroke of the wheel (for example, driving through a deep hole at speed). From such a touch, naturally, there will also be knocking.
Well, here's the other side of Kalin's high ground clearance. Now, probably, the front springs of my Kalina have sagged a little, because the struts have started knocking less, or maybe it’s time to change them due to invisible damage. In the summer, my Kalina's silent blocks in the rear beam squeak strongly, and this rubbery sound is constantly heard in the cabin. This summer I want to change them to polyurethane ones (600 rubles - a pair), they say it helps.
Master electricians warned me about one very unpleasant “trouble” that some Kalinas have; over time, a sudden leak appears in the radiator of the “stove”, and under it there is a controller that fills it with Antifreeze, and it breaks down forever (and it costs from 4500 rubles + "reflashing"). Therefore, I decided to play it safe and filled the cooling system with a special liquid sealant ("HI-Gear" 150 ml - 170 rubles) for the cooling system. I used this sealant to fix a radiator leak on my previous VAZ-2111.
Low beam bulbs don't last long (4-6 months), and both "Osram" and cheap "Mayak" bulbs burn out equally, "factory Philips" bulbs burned out equally after 2 months on a new car, so I decided not to spend money on them. Instead of large light bulbs (without a base), I installed diode ones (Mayak) with white light for 30 rubles. apiece, they have been burning for the second year now, and there have been no problems with traffic cops.
For a new car I immediately bought a duralumin engine protection (650 rubles, some people call it titanium for some reason), naturally I had to remove the tin factory protection. After installation, the engine compartment gets heavily splashed in rainy weather, so I decided to make homemade plastic shields over the generator and in front of the battery (if there is no ABS unit) from the factory front plastic lockers from 2110-12, cutting them to a suitable size. At the same time, I moved the horn mount under the hood to the mount of the air filter housing to the radiator frame, extended the wiring, now it is in a place inaccessible to thieves and moisture. Now the hood insulation inside is always dry and clean, I don’t know why companies don’t still make shields like those for the “tens”.
I do not recommend installing steel engine protection for the reason that it is heavy, quickly rusts and, if damaged, does not restore its shape, requiring straightening, and the rear “ears” often break off, and it begins to rumble. In winter, take care of the bumpers from contacts, especially the front one, they often burst in cold weather, they were stronger on the “tens”.
Many owners write about Kalin’s speed qualities; I couldn’t squeeze more than 175 km/h on the speedometer out of mine in the summer in calm weather; it feels like it’s hitting a wall of air and doesn’t want to go faster, the engine starts to heat up to 97 degrees, and the roar of the engine becomes unbearable. My “Eleventh” was about 10 km/h faster with the same engine. I attribute this to worse aerodynamics (Kalina is taller than the “ten”, and the exterior mirrors are of a decent size).
Often new Kalinas have an “itching cricket” somewhere under the instrument panel; this sound can also be heard from the left corner of the panel (like mine). After a long search, I found the source of this unpleasant sound, these are the terminals of the brake light sensor at the brake pedal, I wrapped electrical tape around them, and it became easier on my ears. My Kalina's clutch pedal and gearshift lever were still itching. I had a “sticky” aerosis. lubricant for imported motorcycle chains. I treated the clutch cable ratchet, the gas cable and at the same time the inside of the gearshift lever with this lubricant, and half of the extraneous sounds in the cabin immediately disappeared, the gas pedal became much lighter and more informative. A little later, in the gear shift mechanism (slide), I replaced the original metal washers and bushing with homemade ones made of fluoroplastic, tightened the connection between the slide and the lever with a nut, treated all the moving joints with this lubricant, and changed the cover with the handle to a leather one (350 rubles in the store). As a result, gear shifts became clearer, it became more pleasant to “operate” the lever, and most importantly, the itching from the lever disappeared, but the vibrations, unfortunately, did not go away.
Recently I changed the gearbox oil to semi-synthetic 75W90 "Liqui Moly" (3x1l - 1050 rubles), added a little more additive, about 1000 km the speeds began to turn on more softly, and the noise from the gearbox died down a little. Now, in cold weather, I noticed that the oil in the gearbox almost does not thicken, and there is no need to “drive” the gears.
I think my information will be useful for some car owners. Good luck to you "Kalinovody" and less troubles with the car! By the way, I recently drove a VAZ-2114, compared to the Kalina it sucks. Well, you understand what I mean...
