Installation and connection of a car radio is necessary in the following cases:
- you purchased a used car that was not equipped with a car radio, or with a radio that did not meet your requirements;
- you purchased a new car as standard and want to install a car radio with higher performance and functionality;
- you got a good radio “by chance”, for example from a damaged car;
- The car radio is out of order.
Each of these options has its own characteristics. Conventionally, the sequence of actions can be divided into the following stages: preparatory stage, circuit installation work, testing and configuration.
1. Preparatory stage
1.1. Vehicle electrical equipment inspection
First of all, prepare the required tool:
- Screwdriver Set;
- side cutters;
- soldering kit (if not, in worst case scenario, you can do without it);
- device for dismantling an old radio.
The device for dismantling radio tape recorders is made in the form of two thin steel plates about 5 mm wide and 100 mm long. If you don't have one, you can make it yourself.
In most cases, you will find ISO connectors on the footprint. This greatly simplifies the installation of a new car radio. As a rule, radio tape recorders sold include adapters from the radio casing connector to the ISO connection.
Next, examine the junction of the connectors to the electrical wiring of the machine. If the car is new or “fresh” there should not be any abnormal connections. For older cars, you will most likely find yourself connecting the connectors to the car’s on-board network, which will probably have to be fixed. The problem is that such connections can be powered with gross violations of the safety of vehicle operation, or the insulation has become unusable.
Video - how to install a radio in a car and what to look for:
If you change the radio because it has failed, you must in any case reconnect all connections, otherwise the new radio will suffer the same fate. In addition, it is necessary to check all the speakers and the quality of the wiring; this will be discussed in the next chapter.
In the case when you are going to change a radio with increased output power, you need to look at the cross-section of the conductors going to the speakers. Modern high-quality car radios have an output power of 50 watts per channel. The cross-sectional area of the audio system wires in this case must be at least 4 square millimeters.
1.2. Development of a sketch of electrical wiring and a list of components
The next stage is drawing up a wiring sketch indicating the distances to consumers. This applies to cases where a decision has been made to replace audio and network wiring.
The positive power bus for the high-power radio will most likely have to be pulled from the engine compartment; the negative one can be connected to ground near the center console.
The most difficult part is to route the audio system wires. Usually it runs to the rear speakers along the right and left thresholds.
Video - connecting a Pioneer car radio with your own hands:
If you plan to connect an amplifier, cameras, or other additional devices to the radio, they must also be taken into account in the sketch.
The sketch must indicate the connection points for the fuses. It is better to choose them near the connection source. The size of the main fuse is calculated based on the maximum (peak) output power of the car radio using the formula:
Nominal = 2.5 X Total power of radio channels (Watt) / 12 Volts
With a car radio power of 4 X 50 W, about 50 Amperes are obtained.
- power wire with a cross section of 8 sq. mm. – 8 meters;
- connecting wire with a cross section of 4 sq. mm. – 4 meters;
- contact group for speakers – 10 pcs.;
- fuse 50 Ampere with socket – 1 pc.;
- 15 Ampere fuse with socket - 1 pc.;
- solder, rosin – 1 set;
- fasteners – 20 units;
- heat shrink 4 mm – 1 meter;
- heat shrink 6 mm – 1 meter.
Heat shrink is necessary for high-quality insulation of electrical connections. It is a vinyl cambric that shrinks in size when exposed to hot air (an industrial hair dryer, or a lighter).
1.3. Measuring the parameters of the speaker system
Next, you need to examine the installed car audio system. To do this, you will have to remove the speaker covers and look at the condition of the diffusers. Then use a multimeter to measure the speaker resistance. Standard resistance values are 2, 4 and 8 ohms (usually 4).
If anyone has forgotten how to do this: switch the multimeter to the resistance position at a limit of 200 Ohms, connect the probes to the speaker terminals. If the resistance is less than 2 ohms, you may have a short circuit in the circuit. For this reason, car radios most often fail.
In order to determine the rated power of a speaker, you will have to look at its labeling. It is applied on the back side.
If you change the acoustics, you need to take into account that you will have to pull the wiring through the corrugation connecting the doors to the interior. This is a big piece of work. In this case, immediately measure the diameter of the speaker seat and the seat depth.
When installing the appropriate amplifier, the choice of location is important. It doesn't cool well under the seat; you have to run long wires into the trunk, which will create additional interference. It’s better, of course, to stick with the first option.
Some car radios are equipped with line outputs. This simplifies the task: you only need to route the coaxial wires and the amplifier control wires. If there are no line outputs, an additional high/low level coupler must be installed.
In the case when you buy a radio with improved characteristics for a new car, it is more rational to stay with the standard model. Such car radios are produced by some manufacturers, for most brands of cars, including domestic ones.
They completely match all interfaces (connectors, controls, diagnostics, etc.) to the car. Their installation is extremely simple: remove the old one, install the new one, adjust the light, color and other custom parameters.
Video - installing a car radio in a car:
It is better to purchase a radio with low-level outputs (linear outputs). Then, when installing the amplifier, you will not have to interfere with the circuit.
ANDROID radios are becoming more and more fashionable. In practice, this is a multimedia audio complex with a positioning system, the Internet and other bells and whistles. There is a rational element to this. Firstly, the separate purchase of the necessary devices will cost much more. Secondly, there is no point in cluttering the car’s work area with numerous gadgets.
After purchasing all the components and the radio itself, we proceed to the next stage.
2. Radio connection diagram and installation work
This is the most critical stage. Primary requirements:
- correct development of electrical circuit;
- competent and high-quality electrical installation;
- checking reliability and compliance with the installation diagram.
2.1. Electrical circuit development
The easiest way is to rely on the standard ISO interface. Then, when replacing equipment further, you will not have to change anything.
In addition, its diagram is extremely clear. For most car radios you can buy standard adapters.
ISO connector pinout (correspondence of contacts and pins):
Typical car radio connection diagram:
Guided by this connection diagram, it is not difficult to make the correct electrical installation.
2.2. Electric installation work
First of all, you need to bring all the conductors from the devices to the connection area of the ISO connectors. The most difficult thing to do is for speaker wires, if such a need arises. In this case, you will have to remove the door trim, then lead the conductor through the corrugated hose connector.
Sometimes, for ease of connection, the wire is led past the connector. Then under the steering wheel you are allowed into the center console. Rear speakers are usually connected along the lower sills.
The signal antenna wire is usually installed by the manufacturer. It is inserted into the coaxial socket of the car radio. There are two types of antennas: passive and active (with an amplifier). Antennas with an amplifier must be used if the car is operated away from large populated areas. If such an antenna is used in a big city, it will be “clogged” with numerous electrical noises. Also, some antennas have an extension drive. For this purpose, the circuit provides a separate power supply to the antenna via the ISO interface.
The radio is powered through two channels: directly from the battery to maintain settings and memory, and through the ignition key.
Electrical connections to the speakers should be made using special contact groups. It is better to connect the wires by twisting plus soldering using heat shrink.
2.3. Standard designations for car radio terminals
When drawing up other electrical circuits, it is necessary to use the operating instructions for car radios or, in the absence of them, stickers on the case.
The International Standard provides the following conventions:
- FR+ and FR- front right positive and negative speaker output;
- FL+ and FL- front left;
- RR+ and RR- rear right;
- RL+ and RL- rear left;
- GND – common wire, body, ground;
- B+ battery plus;
- BAT plus battery;
- K30 plus battery;
- A+ plus through the ignition key;
- K15 plus via ignition key;
- ACC plus via ignition key;
- ANT plus antennas;
- SAFE plus via ignition key;
- SWA plus via ignition key;
- N/C no connection;
- LAMP, ILL, ILLUM backlight;
- MUTE, TEL pause for telephone conversation;
- AMP switch on the amplifier;
- DATA IN/OUT data input-output;
- SHIELD braided coaxial wire;
- LINE IN/OUT linear input-output;
- REM management;
- DIMMER adjusts the brightness of the display.
- CAN, K-BUS data bus line;
- CD-IN/OUT, DVD changer connection;
2.4. Compatible with vehicle diagnostic system
If the radio is installed correctly, it should be diagnosed via the CAN bus or K-Line channel.
There are cases that after installing a non-original radio in the existing standard connector, the car is no longer diagnosed.
This happens because the ISO connector has a k-line diagnostic bus. In many car radios, especially those near China, this output is simply short-circuited to negative. Thus, the diagnosis fails. To fix the problem, you need to find the number of this pin in the car manual and cut it off.
After making all the connections, do not rush to insert the radio. Let's move on to the next point.
3. Test and adjustment
First, we check the correctness of the connections. Using a multimeter probe, we determine the presence of the required voltages on the ISO connectors. Plus on A4, A6, A7 with the ignition on, minus on A8.
Next, we measure the speaker impedance on the speaker side. Front right resistance – connect the probes to the B3 and B4 contacts. Should show 4 ohms. We make similar measurements for other speakers.
Now you can connect the ISO connectors of the radio and other connections when the radio is turned off. To measure leakage currents, you need to turn on the multimeter in the current measuring position in the open circuit of each of the fuses. Leakage currents should be no more than 300 milliamps, otherwise the radio will discharge the battery when parked.
Video - what you should pay attention to when connecting the radio to your car:
Switch the level to the front speakers. Then set the music volume, preferably classical, to the middle position. Shift your balance to the right side all the way. Turn up the volume a little. Then sharply set the balance to the middle position.
If the sound volume has increased significantly, it means that the phases of the speakers match. If the volume has changed slightly, the sound has turned into mush, therefore, the phase of one of the speakers must be changed to the opposite one.
A similar operation must be carried out for the rear speakers. Finally, for right or left side speakers. If the phases of the front and rear speakers do not match, you need to switch the wires on the connectors of two front or rear speakers at once.
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The head acoustic unit is included with the machine or installed separately. The connection of the radio is carried out by the owner of the car independently or in a specialized center. The operation of not only the multimedia center, but also the electrical system of the car depends on the correctness of the procedure.
Connection diagrams
The connection of the car radio to the vehicle's on-board network is carried out through standard wiring or connected directly to the battery. The power system must ensure uninterrupted operation of the equipment regardless of the volume level. The power supply circuit uses an additional cord to ensure that the settings are saved when the key is removed from the ignition.
The diagram attached to the factory documentation of the car radio indicates the purpose of the power cables:
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- with black insulation - used to ground the radio casing to the car body;
- with a red protective layer (a yellow cord with a larger wire cross-section is used on parts of the radio) - to supply positive power to the amplifier;
- with a yellow insulator - to recharge the memory unit (a constant supply of a positive signal of 12 V is required);
- with blue protection with a white stripe - for supplying power to an external amplifier (for example, an antenna or sound).
Before connecting the car radio to the on-board network, you need to analyze the documentation and select the preferred connection scheme. To facilitate installation, the cables are color coded according to the ISO standard. An incorrect choice of switching scheme can cause equipment to turn off during operation or distortion of the broadcast sound.
Through the ignition switch
The connection diagram for the radio through the contact group of the ignition switch is possible if there is an intermediate ACC position in the device. The power wire for grounding (with a black insulator) must be hooked up to grounding elements (for example, to special bolts and nuts welded to the body). The cable is secured using contact plates, which are installed on the exposed area. The quality of the grounding determines the operation of the equipment at high volumes; if the contact is poor, the radio may turn off spontaneously.
Only a cable covered with a layer of red insulation passes through the contact group of the ignition switch. On some vehicles, it is possible to connect the cord to the cigarette lighter socket or socket for additional equipment, since power is supplied to the units only after turning the key in the ignition switch. When making such switching, the parameters of the protective fuse should be taken into account; the rating of the insert should be sufficient for the joint operation of the cigarette lighter (or additional devices) and multimedia equipment.
The yellow cable is led to contacts where positive power is constantly present.
If the wire is connected to the lock, the equipment settings will be reset to factory values each time the ignition system is turned off.
The connection point for the yellow wire depends on the car model; it is recommended to route the cord to the battery installation location.
After the ignition is turned off and the key is removed from the keyhole, the power supply to the power circuits of the multimedia device is stopped. Only the elements that ensure that radio frequencies and equipment settings are stored in memory remain energized. The switching technique ensures minimal energy consumption by the head unit when the vehicle is idle.
Installing a standard radio in a car requires switching only through the contact group of the lock. The cables used by the manufacturer are designed for the power of the built-in amplifier, which ensures reliable operation of the equipment. If the owner intends to replace the factory equipment with a device with improved characteristics, it is recommended to evaluate the compliance of the cable cross-section with the power consumption.
Direct to battery
A scheme for connecting a car radio directly to a battery installed in the engine compartment or in the luggage compartment has become widespread. The connection method is the most reliable, but the car owner must forcibly turn off the head unit when parking the car. A working amplifier can discharge the battery in 8-10 hours; it will not be possible to start the power unit with the starter in the morning.
Before connecting the radio to a DC source, you need to lay the power cables. The cords are routed from the instrument panel through the car interior and engine shield; the route is laid away from moving elements and heat sources. If there are no suitable holes in the engine shield, then it is necessary to drill the parts and install rubber seals. To ensure operation of equipment equipped with an external amplifier and subwoofer, the use of a copper multi-core cable with a cross-section of 3-5 mm² is required.
The cables are connected to the battery contact pins using special terminals, which are then coated with a protective compound. A fuse is installed in the positive line; the rating of the device depends on the power of the connected components. The fuse link is mounted at a distance of 300-400 mm from the battery contact connector. Installing a multimedia complex without a protective element is strictly prohibited.
Using a button instead of the ignition switch
Connecting the radio via a button allows you to control the power of the head unit without installing the key in the ignition. With this connection method, the red wire (positive power) is led to a switch that is mounted on the front panel or center console in the car. Installation and connection of equipment involves laying additional cables and using a button that can withstand current up to 10-15 A (depending on the power of the amplifier).
After pressing the button, the multimedia equipment is turned on; a yellow cable is used to save the settings in memory. The cord is led to the battery or attached to the positive wire of the car circuit, which constantly carries voltage. The disadvantage of the technique is the need to control the position of the switch when parking the car.
Via alarm
A security alarm can be used to connect a multimedia head unit to a car. An additional 5-pin relay is included in the equipment circuit, which breaks the power supply circuit of the radio when the security mode is activated. The switching unit is placed in the gap in the power supply wire to the amplifier; a protective fuse rated for a current of 10-15 A is installed in front of the relay. To turn off the power to the musical equipment, the external blocking control output (negative pulse) is used.
Installation of the radio and connection to the on-board network through the alarm unit is recommended to be carried out in a specialized service. If switching is incorrect, the head unit continues to consume current up to 200 mA, which leads to a decrease in battery capacity. Some security systems require the installation of an electronic unit built on low-current transistors and additional resistances. The design of the module depends on the output logic of the car alarm.
Method of connecting head equipment via a double relay and a security complex unit:
- Connect the yellow cable from the battery through pins 30 and 85 of the first relay, and then route the cable to the player.
- To contact 86, located on the first relay, lay the signal cable from the central locking control unit (negative pulse).
- Connect contact 87A of the first relay to plug 30 located on the second switching block. Contact 86 from the second relay is connected to the car body.
- From plug 85 on the secondary relay, the wire is routed to an external amplifier or antenna.
- The red wire goes through the ignition switch and the diode. Then the circuit is connected to pin 87, located on the second relay, and output to the head unit block.
Installation in the car
Installation of the radio begins with the removal of the decorative plugs covering the mounting socket in the center console. To mount the head unit, metal clips are used, which are held in the instrument panel by bendable antennae. If the car was equipped with a 1 Din-format radio, and you plan to install equipment with increased dimensions, then a box for small items is removed from the console. It is not possible to install a 2 Din standard player on some machines, or the installation of a new console will be required to accommodate the unit.
To install a radio instead of the original equipment, it is necessary to install adapter brackets that allow you to attach the tape recorder to the power frame of the dashboard. Installing a non-standard radio requires the use of a decorative frame that allows you to fit a rectangular front panel into a hole with beveled edges or rounded corners (depending on the type of car). The additional element is installed by hand and does not require modification of standard parts from the machine.
Connecting speakers
Connecting the radio to a car equipped with standard acoustics does not require laying patch cables. The owner will need to directly connect the plugs to the mating connectors on the head unit or use an adapter. If speakers are installed simultaneously with the installation of multimedia equipment, then signal cables will need to be laid. Depending on the design of the car, acoustics are installed in the doors, instrument panel or shelf located behind the back of the rear row of seats.
To connect the acoustics to the head unit, a special-purpose stranded copper wire coated with an elastic insulator is used. On the speaker body there are positive and negative contacts with symbols. The connection diagram for the car radio provides for connecting loudspeakers in compliance with polarity; connecting negative cables into a common bus is prohibited. Since the wires come without a chip, it is necessary to provide a plug that will ensure a reliable connection.
Antenna connection
Once the power cables and speaker patch cords have been connected, the antenna plug should be reinstalled. On some cars, the cable with the connector is folded deep into the instrument panel; the owner needs to pull the cord to the installation site himself. Standard antennas are equipped with frequency filters that eliminate interference and increase the range of signal reception from repeaters. The factory unit is connected using a plug that is installed in the mating socket on the back of the car radio.
If the car is not equipped with an antenna, then many owners connect an active type device that is mounted on the windshield. The built-in amplifier requires power, which is provided by the output in the player's jack, marked AMP or REM. After connection, the junction point is protected with insulating tape. At this stage, the procedure for installing the radio in the car ends; the owner can test the operation of the equipment.
Checking the connection
After the installation of the car radio is completed, you need to connect the battery to the car's on-board network. Then an attempt is made to activate the multimedia head unit. If the wires are connected incorrectly, you will not be able to turn on the device; if the insulation is poor, a short circuit may occur, which will blow the fuse. To restore functionality, you will need to remove the device and replace the fuse link with a product with an identical rating.
Then it is recommended to check the correct connection of the power cords according to the colors of the radio wires. Incorrectly connected cables must be carefully disconnected and then reconnected correctly to the car radio. If the display lights up when you press the power button, then the power supply to the equipment is connected correctly. If there is no sound (regardless of the position of the control) or the amplifier periodically turns off, then you need to use a tester to check the integrity of the cables going to the speakers.
If there are no malfunctions during the operation of the equipment, then the connection of the car radio and installation of additional components are considered complete. If the owner cannot find the cause of the malfunction, it is recommended to send the car to a service center. Operating a vehicle with faulty electrical network components leads to melting of the wiring insulation and a fire.
Cars have become a part of our lives and today they are not just a means of transportation, but a place where we spend a lot of time. On the way from work, to work, during vacation and fishing trips, all motorists are faced with such a common phenomenon as traffic jams. During the grueling hours of standing in traffic jams for many hours, there is nothing better than listening to music or watching a movie. Modern radios have everything you need for a comfortable pastime. The cost of such units can range from several thousand rubles to hundreds, and the choice here depends on your financial capabilities. You can save a lot on installing the device if you have at least the slightest knowledge of electrical engineering.
Before installing the equipment, you first need to familiarize yourself with the standard dimensions of the radio, which may differ depending on the selected model of audio installation.
On the box with the radio, many car enthusiasts notice hitherto unseen symbols and designations. For example, a 2 DIN car radio with Android navigation. Everyone knows perfectly well what navigation and Android are, but 2 DIN is less common in life. In fact, there are two sizes of sockets for car radios, namely:
- 1 DIN – dimensions 178 x 52 mm;
- 2 DIN – dimensions 178 x 100 mm.
In addition, there are now 1 DIN devices on the market with smaller dimensions of 178 x 52 x 159 mm. Such models are much cheaper due to the fact that they do not have a CD drive, instead of which USB ports are installed on the front panel.
If we talk about the differences in the main standard sizes, then 2 DIN products are equipped with a large display and large buttons. Thanks to this, such radios are easy to control. In addition, such devices often have a large number of functions, turning into full-fledged media receivers.
If you are the owner of a car radio with a retractable display, then most likely the overall dimensions of the device will correspond to the 1 DIN standard. Such devices are distinguished by their compactness, and thanks to the large display, you can watch DVDs in the car, use the Internet or a navigator. 1 DIN car radios with a retractable screen are installed in the same way as other tape recorders. The main thing is that everything is done in accordance with the recommendations given below in the article.
If your car has a 1 DIN car radio socket, but you want to use a more multifunctional device, then there are special adapter frames for 2 DIN car radios on sale.
If we talk about the depth of radio tape recorders, then this value is usually 160 mm, regardless of the standard size. Once you have determined that your radio corresponds to the socket provided by the manufacturer, or you have purchased an adapter frame or made it yourself, you can begin installing the device.
Installation Features
Before starting work, you need to pay attention to the connectors of the car radio and the car. If they don't match, it's okay. Now on the market you can purchase any necessary adapter that allows you to switch from the original speakers to the generally accepted ISO standard. The best car stereo connector is ISO 10487, so if your vehicle has one, the installation process will be much easier.
Before installation, you must purchase a set of all the necessary wires to connect power and speakers. It is better to choose shorter wiring without unnecessary twists. Multicore wires with silicone insulation are considered the most reliable today. In addition, check whether you will need an adapter frame for a 2 DIN car radio.
Healthy! The diameter of the wiring should be 1.5-2 times thicker than that on the car radio connector. Experts recommend using special acoustic wires with a cross-section of 1.5-4 mm square.
After this, you can proceed to the connection.
Marking of wires and their connection diagram
Almost all car radio manufacturers adhere to the same standard for marking input wires:
- BAT/B+ – yellow wire to the permanent positive of the battery. When connecting, a 10-20A fuse is used;
- ACC/A+ – red wire to the ignition switch terminal;
- GROUND/GND – black wire indicating minus or ground;
- REM - blue or white-blue control wire, responsible for turning on the car amplifier or antenna;
- ILL – orange wire to the light switch terminal;
- MUTE is a yellow-black wire responsible for remote muting or completely turning off the sound. If it is not included in the kit, then there is no need to buy such a wire.
There is another connection scheme when the red wire is connected together with the red one. This allows the audio system to operate regardless of whether the ignition key is turned on or off. The only disadvantage of such a scheme is that the tape recorder will always be in standby mode, which has a detrimental effect on battery performance. Its discharge rate can increase significantly.
For the radio output, the following wires are used, going to the speakers. They always come in pairs:
- FL- and FL + – minus and plus of the rear speaker (white wires);
- FR- and FR+ – minus and plus of the front speaker (gray wires);
- RL- and RL+ – minus and plus of the left rear speaker (green wires);
- RR- and RR+ – minus and plus of the right rear speaker (purple wires).
In each pair, one wire will be plain, and the second will have a black stripe. Striped means minus. Carefully read the color scheme of your radio and follow the sequence of wires.
Connecting speakers
The process of connecting speakers requires special attention, so be sure to check the instructions. Usually there are plus and minus markings on the speaker terminals. Most often, the wide terminal is positive, and the narrow terminal is negative. If your car does not have such markings, use the simplest tester - a battery. Connect its + and – to the speaker terminals and if the cone moves outward, then you have determined the phasing correctly.
There is another way to determine phasing. To do this, transfer all audio to one of the front speakers and increase the volume to maximum until there is noticeable sound distortion. Balance the sound by evenly distributing the volume between the left and right speakers. If the phasing is done correctly, the overall volume will increase noticeably. If the sound does not become louder or the changes are barely noticeable, this indicates incorrect phasing and the need to swap the wires on one of the speakers. You can also check the rear speakers in the same way.
Important! Be sure to carry out a test, since if you connect incorrectly, you risk losing up to 80% of the sound quality or completely destroying the radio over time.
If your radio has low power, then it will only be equipped with positive wires for each speaker. In this case, the minus of the speakers is connected to the common minus of the audio installation.
You will know that the radio is connected incorrectly or in an “undesirable” way by the following signs:
- when parked, the battery will discharge very quickly, to such a state that it will be impossible to start the car;
- while listening to music, you will notice that the tape recorder constantly “stutters”, and when the volume increases, the car radio “turns off by itself”;
- When the power is turned off, all settings disappear.
If you notice such problems, it is better to check that all wires are connected correctly.
Antenna connection
To connect a passive antenna, simply plug its plug into the corresponding socket. If you are installing an active device, then things are a little more complicated. The fact is that in this case you need to supply power to the antenna. Usually this can be achieved using the blue REM wire, which either comes with the radio or is prepared by you in advance.
Other possible contacts
You may also encounter other markings on the product, so it will be useful to know them:
- AMP – contact responsible for turning on the power to the external amplifier;
- DATA IN/OUT – data input/output;
- LINE IN/OUT – linear input/output;
- ACP+/- – bus lines (most often used in Ford cars);
- AUDIO/R/L COM – common wire (ground), responsible for input/output for preamplifiers;
- SEC IN – additional input;
- ALARM – used to connect an alarm system (very often present in PIONEER radios);
- D2B-/D2B+ - optical communication lines.
In custody
If for some reason you need to remove the radio, this can be done very simply. First, press the RELEASE button and unclip the front control panel. Next, using two flat keys, pull the radio out. As you can see, installing a car radio with your own hands, the video of which you will find below, does not require much time and effort, the main thing is to do everything according to the appropriate connection diagram.
Car multimedia system (car radio) is a universal radio-electronic digital device designed for listening to radio broadcasts, music, video surveillance, navigation and communication.
In modern cars, audio preparation is carried out during assembly - an antenna and speakers are installed in the doors, electrical wiring is laid, and there is a compartment in the beard with a connector for connecting the radio. To install the radio, if the connector standards meet, you just need to dock them and insert the radio into the compartment.
Structural and color
wiring diagram for car radio in car
Before the initial installation or replacement of an obsolete car radio with your own hands, you need to study the principle of its operation and the connection diagram to the car's electrical wiring.
Radios of any manufacturer and standard size are connected according to the same electrical circuit, only it happens that the connecting connector in the car differs in design from the connector on the radio.
The color scheme of the wires in this block diagram corresponds to the European ISO standard. Please note that car manufacturers, especially in Asian countries, often use their own color coding for wires.
How is power supplied to the car radio?
For the car radio to operate, it must be supplied with a 12 V DC supply voltage from the battery. Usually it is supplied through three wires; in the diagram these are wires insulated in black (minus ground), yellow and red (+) colors.
The radio is connected with a yellow wire directly to the battery terminal through a fuse. This is necessary so that when the key is removed from the ignition switch, the set settings are saved in the radio; in this case, it is impossible to turn on the car radio. In standby mode, the current consumption of the radio is only a few milliamps, which is comparable to the self-discharge current of the battery and practically does not lead to its discharge.
The main supply voltage is supplied through the ignition switch via a red wire. If the ignition key is turned to the ACC position, even when the engine is not running, the car radio can be turned on.
The red wire can be connected to the yellow wire, and then the radio will work regardless of the ignition switch. But such a connection reduces operational safety and the battery will constantly discharge, especially if you forget to turn off the radio. Therefore, connecting the radio in this way is not recommended.
Antenna connection color scheme
A car antenna is a metal tube or rod of a given length. This antenna is connected using a coaxial cable using a connector directly to the antenna socket of the radio
The photo on the left shows the connector coming from the antenna, and on the right is the mating part of the socket, usually located on the back wall of the car radio.
To be able to receive radio transmissions at a greater distance from the radio signal source, active antennas are sometimes used, in which a high-frequency amplifier is additionally installed in the immediate vicinity of the antenna itself. For its operation, a supply voltage of 12 V is required, which is supplied via a blue wire with a white stripe.
In some car models, the antenna is hidden in the shaft and moves outward using an electric motor and mechanical gearbox only when the radio is turned on. The engine operates when a 12 V supply voltage is supplied through the blue wire.
Color scheme for connecting and checking car speakers
The vehicle's sound system, as shown in the color wiring diagram below, typically consists of four full-range speakers, one installed in each of the side doors.
Speakers have polarity and must be connected correctly. The speaker is not a battery, so if the polarity of the connection is reversed, this will not lead to irreparable consequences. The phasing will only be disrupted, as a result of which the speakers will work in antiphase and the sound waves emitted by one speaker will be absorbed by the opposite one. The sound volume will be low, even with high power input, not to mention the quality.
Usually there is a polarity marking next to the terminals on the speaker. On the loudspeaker shown in the photo, in addition to the markings, in addition, the terminals have different widths, the positive terminal is wider.
ISO speakers are connected to the car radio using two wires of the same color. The wire connected to the positive terminal is painted a solid color, and the insulation of the wire going to the negative terminal has a black stripe along its entire length.
Checking the correct phasing of car speakers by ear
Checking the phasing of the speakers may be necessary if the audio preparation was carried out independently, when replacing the radio connector with a connector of a different standard, or after replacing a failed speaker.
If the radio is installed in the car and is working, then you can check the correct phasing of the speakers without instruments, by ear. Any car radio has a function for adjusting the balance - adjusting the volume level of the right and left speakers. The driver of the car sits on the left, and is closer to the left speakers. In order for the sound from both sides to be perceived at the same volume, you can use balancing to increase the sound volume of the right speakers.
This function allows you not only to balance the sound, but also to check the correct phasing of the speakers. If you use balance to increase the volume of the left or right speakers, the overall playback volume, especially at low frequencies, should decrease. If it does not decrease, but increases, then the polarity of connecting one of the speakers is not correct.
If the polarity of the connection of one of the speakers is incorrect, then it is enough to swap the wires in the pair going to it. To determine an incorrectly connected speaker, you will have to sequentially swap the wires in a pair of each speaker and check the phasing using the method described above.
Installation and testing of car speakers with an ohmmeter
A car loudspeaker (speaker) is a conical diffuser fixed in a housing (basket) using a suspension and a centering washer with a coil of copper wire placed in the gap of a permanent magnet.
The photo shows a cross-section of a classic low-frequency electromagnetic loudspeaker. When electric current is applied to the coil, an electromagnetic field appears around the turns, which, interacting with the field of a permanent magnet, pulls in or pushes out the diffuser. The result is a sound wave, which we hear in the form of speech or music.
This photo shows a mid-tweeter consisting of three drivers. One of them, on the right in the photo, is a piezoelectric emitter, therefore it has a high resistance and cannot be read with an ohmmeter.
Mid- and high-frequency speakers are often connected through filters, which are a capacitor. Therefore, you need to check such a speaker by connecting the ohmmeter probes directly to its terminals.
The active resistance of electrodynamic speakers lies in the range of 1-16 Ohms, so you can check the integrity of the coil by ringing it with a multimeter turned on in resistance measurement mode.
The multimeter showed a resistance of 5.1 ohms, therefore the speaker coil is working. But it happens that coils of wires from the supply of high power fly off the coil or begin to cling to the core. This can be easily checked by pressing the diffuser evenly and very lightly with your fingers. It should retract easily and silently and return to its original position without making any extraneous sounds.
If the speaker registers with an ohmmeter and does not make a rustling sound when you press the diffuser, then it is working.
Checking and determining speaker polarity using a battery
If you don’t have a multimeter, you can check the speaker and at the same time determine the polarity of its terminals (if there is no marking) using any battery or accumulator. It is enough to connect the battery terminals to the speaker terminals for a second.
If the polarity of the battery connection matches, when the “+” is connected to the positive terminal of the speaker, its diffuser will rise upward, as shown in the photo.
Otherwise, the diffuser will be pulled into the speaker basket. When the battery is connected, the speaker will make a characteristic rustling sound.
Any battery or accumulator with a voltage of no more than 4.5 V is suitable for testing, even a dead one. With a higher voltage and a large battery capacity, you can burn the speaker coil. A Krona battery, although the voltage at its terminals is 9 V, can be used because it has a low capacity. If you don’t have a battery at hand, then any DC mains source, for example, a mobile phone charger, will do.
About choosing an speaker cable for speakers
When doing your own audio preparation, when installing a radio or replacing an obsolete radio with a more powerful amplifier, you need to select or check the cross-section of the wires going to the speakers. The procedure for selecting speaker cable differs from the selection rules for electrical wiring. The site is dedicated to choosing an acoustic cable.
Radio sizes – 1DIN and 2DIN
In European and Russian cars there is a standard window for installing a 1DIN or 2DIN radio. The designation corresponds to the international standard ISO 7736 (Car head units), developed in Germany in 1984. DIN (Deutsches Institut für Normung) translates as German Standardization Institute.
As can be seen in the drawing, the dimensions 1DIN (180×50×160) and 2DIN (180×100×160) differ only in height. For 2DIN it is twice as large as for 1DIN. It should be noted that the seating depth of 160 mm is not fixed in the standard, but in fact all cars correspond to this size.
When choosing a car radio for initial installation or when replacing an obsolete one, you need to make sure that the size of the radio you intend to purchase matches the size of the window in your beard. If the size of the car radio is several millimeters smaller than the compartment window, then this issue can be easily resolved. An example of installing a radio tape recorder smaller than the shaft window is given in the article below.
If the size of the radio is smaller by a centimeter or more, then you will need to purchase an adapter frame, and if the larger one does not fit into the compartment, then you will have to remove the beard and expand the window. This is labor-intensive work and it is better to immediately choose a radio that is suitable in size for installation in your car.
Connectors for connecting a car radio
to the vehicle's on-board network
Many manufacturers, when preparing cars for audio, install a connector for connecting a car radio of an internal standard, since there is no international one. In Europe and Russia, preference is given to the German standard ISO 10487, which regulates the design and geometric dimensions of the connector, but does not regulate the color marking of wires. But many manufacturers adhere to the same color coding, which has practically become a standard.
The photograph shows an ISO 10487 connector. It consists of two separate terminals - “A” and “B”, which can be easily identified by the location of the latch. In block “B” it is located in the center, and in block “A” it is shifted to the side from the center.
| ISO standard for pinout of blocks for connecting a radio tape recorder | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Block | Number contact | Purpose | Color coding |
| "A" nutrition | 1 | Changing volume at speed | Not standardized |
| 2 | Off sound when calling | Not standardized | |
| 3 | Reserve | Not standardized | |
| 4 | +12 V constant (memory) | yellow | |
| 5 | +12 V external devices (antenna) | blue | 6 | Radio backlight | orange | 7 | +12 V ACC from ignition | red | 8 | Minus (mass) | black |
| "IN" audio | 1 | Right rear (+) | violet |
| 2 | Right rear (-) | purple with black stripe | |
| 3 | Right front (+) | grey | |
| 4 | Right front (-) | gray with black stripe | |
| 5 | Left front (+) | white | 6 | Left front (-) | white with black stripe | 7 | Left rear (+) | green | 8 | Left rear (-) | green with black stripe |
If the connector in the existing radio differs from the connector installed in the car, then you can purchase an adapter or, as I did, cut the wires from the standard connector and solder them to a new one.
As an example, the photo shows an adapter for connecting a car radio with an ISO connector in Hyundai and Kia cars of some years of manufacture. When choosing an adapter, you should take into account that the block that is inserted into the car connector always has pins (the male type in the photo on the right), and that connects to the radio - sockets (the female type, in the photo on the left).
The type and color marking of the standard connector can be found in the car's electrical diagram, and the color marking for connecting the radio is usually present on its body or is available in the documentation.
Selecting a car radio
Almost all modern car radios, regardless of the brand, are made in China and have approximately the same technical characteristics. They differ only in height dimensions (50 or 100 mm), appearance, number of channels and additional switching capabilities.
Therefore, when choosing a car radio, first of all you need to find out the size of the seat for it in the car and decide on the list of additional communication capabilities you need.
| Technical characteristics of modern radio tape recorders | ||
|---|---|---|
| Name | Function | Note |
| FM radio (87.5-108 MHz) | modern range | |
| AM radio (66-74 MHz) | Reception of radio broadcasts in the VHF range | Soviet range |
| USB playback | ||
| Playback from SD flash | Listening to audio and watching video clips | MKV, MP4, DIVX, Lossless Audio, JPEG, MP3 and WMA |
| Remote control | Controlling the operating mode of the radio remotely | |
| Touch screen | Controlling the radio by touching the screen | Unstable operation at low temperatures |
| GPS navigation | Determining the location and the ability to plot a travel route | |
| Bluetooth speakerphone | Wireless connection to external devices to the radio | The ability to communicate via cellular communication with your hands free |
| 3G internet | Wireless connection of the radio to the Internet system | Opportunity to work on the Internet |
| WiFi | Wireless connection of external devices to the radio via IP | |
| Number of channels for connecting speakers | 2, 4, 6 | Optimally four |
| Subwoofer output | Possibility of connecting a subwoofer | For music lovers |
After determining the list of desired technical characteristics, you can begin to select the appropriate model. Almost all modern radio tape recorders provide sufficient sound power and a low level of nonlinear distortion, providing sufficiently high-quality sound reproduction for listening, and all arguments on this topic are groundless.
The naturalness of sound reproduction depends not only on the signal source, the parameters of the radio or other sound-reproducing device and their acoustic systems, but also on the acoustic characteristics of the room. It is in principle impossible to achieve natural sound in a car interior with a volume of several cubic meters, and even half of it has a coating that does not absorb sound waves (glass, plastic).
The sound waves emitted by the speaker are repeatedly reflected from glass and plastic panels, forming damped standing waves in the form of an echo. The reflected waves are added to the newly emitted speakers and distort them. You can only enjoy natural sound in a concert hall.
Thus, the main criteria when choosing a car radio are: the height of the case, the presence of the necessary functions and appearance. The remaining technical characteristics of modern radio tape recorders, as a rule, provide high quality sound reproduction.
Therefore, when choosing to install it in my car, I purchased on Aliexpress at a discount for only $12 a car radio SJ-T10446-93 model 2033, which I liked for the price, appearance and technical characteristics, which are given below in the table. You can see its appearance in the photograph.
| Main characteristics of the radio SJ-T10446-93 model 2033 | ||
|---|---|---|
| Name | Characteristic | Note |
| Standard size | 1DIN | 180mm×50mm×160mm |
| Supply voltage | 12 V | Minus on the case |
| FM channel | 87.5-108 MHz | Sensitivity 22 db |
| Playback | USB, SD flash, with Audio input | Format MP3, MP4, WMA |
| Sound system | Stereo | Separation >25 db |
| frequency range | 20-20000 Hz | Nonlinear distortion |
| Load resistance | 4-8 Ohm | Speaker impedance |
| output power | 4×50 W | Four channels |
| Display | LED LCD | ID3 format |
| Volume control | Round handle | Electronic |
| Equalizer | Step adjustment with button | Classical, jazz, pops, rock |
| Operating temperature | minus 20 - 60 C° | |
| Type of connection block | Any | Resoldering was planned |
Before searching for a suitable car radio model, I wrote down all the necessary technical characteristics and requirements, which I put into a table and used to make a choice. Other functions, such as remembering settings, remote control and others, are usually present by default.
An example of installing a car radio in a car
Before choosing a car radio, you need to measure the dimensions of the compartment in the beard and find out what type of pad is installed during audio preparation. To do this, you need to remove the installed car radio, and if installed for the first time, remove the decorative plug.
To remove the standard radio from the compartment, you must use a special key, which is usually included with the car. There is no standard, and therefore each manufacturer comes up with its own type of key. To remove the radio, simply insert the key into the slots on its panel.
To remove the plug, use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry it in the middle. To prevent scratches on the plastic of the beard, you need to place a soft pad, for example, a piece of leather, under the screwdriver.
The plug in the compartment is secured with four latches, two on each of the long sides. They are highlighted in brown in the photo.
As expected, the connector block turned out to be a Hyundai ATOS, which fit a very small range of car radios.
This photo shows the Hyundai ATOS pad from the side of the contact petals. It immediately became obvious that it would be almost impossible to find an inexpensive radio for installation with this type of connector.
The antenna plug was standard; almost all car radios, including branded ones, have a counterpart for it.
In terms of dimensions, taking into account the slide, the selected Chinese car radio SJ-T10446-93 model 2033 corresponded to the dimensions of the compartment in the beard. But to replace the standard sled, I would have to remove my beard, which I didn’t want to do. The dimensions of the radio cassette were three millimeters smaller in height and width, which made it possible to install it in a standard slide using rubber strips.
The radio included a connector with wires and a table with color codes for the wires. The yellow wire had a 10 A fuse installed in an insulated housing.
To connect, it was possible to purchase an adapter for half the cost of the radio, but having a ready-made block with wires, I decided to solder it directly to the standard wires. Excessive connections in electrical wiring negatively affect its reliability, and correct connection of wires by soldering is the most reliable that exists. If soldering is impossible, you can get by by simply twisting the wires of the same name.
To eliminate errors when connecting wires, a color table was compiled. Next, the wires were cut sequentially one by one with wire cutters at the entrance to the standard block, twisted with the wires of the new one and soldered with solder. While the soldering did not have time to cool down, an insulating polyvinyl chloride tube was pulled over the joint, which, after the solder cooled, was itself tightly fixed to the wires.
Ultimately, all the necessary conductors were connected, except for two intended to supply power to the backlight. In this receiver model, the backlight turned on when voltage was applied to the radio via the ACC wire.
The cassette player body was three millimeters smaller than the dimensions of the slide. Therefore, rubber strips one millimeter thick were glued in advance to all four sides of its body with Moment glue. This ensured its easy installation into the compartment and a fairly tight fit.
The check showed that there were no errors during installation and after setting up the radio, the car interior was filled with the sound of a radio broadcast. All that remains is to insert it into the compartment and enjoy the result achieved.
It took about an hour to install the car radio, including preparation and soldering of wires. Of course, there is no need to talk about the naturalness of the sound, but for listening to news and music at a sufficient level of quality, an inexpensive Chinese radio is quite enough.
The choice met expectations; after installing it yourself, the car radio has been working flawlessly during year-round use of the car for several years with sufficiently high sound quality.
Good afternoon. In today's article I will tell you how to connect a car radio in a car and analyze typical errors in connecting radios. Traditionally for our site, the article is equipped with detailed photos and video instructions.
Attention!
If, when connecting, you arrange the so-called. A short circuit can lead to melted wires, burns and, in extreme cases, a fire. Please, when connecting the car radio, be careful, carefully insulate all wire connections and do not forget about the fuse...
To connect the radio we need:
- The car radio itself, the speakers and their wires
- Stationery knife or special knife. tool for removing insulation from wires.
- Insulating tape.
- Fuse (10a-15a) and its connector.
- Multimeter or test light.
- Crown battery
The simplest option is that the car has audio preparation.
Audio preparation – i.e. Special connectors, an antenna are installed in the car's wiring, and speakers are fixed in standard places. For many models, audio preparation is an option, and many owners refuse it in order to reduce the cost of the car when purchasing, but this should not be done, since radio installers will ask for much more money for it.
With factory audio preparation, installing a radio comes down to purchasing an adapter between the wiring connectors and your radio.
Adapters are freely sold in most stores that sell radio tape recorders, but if you want, you can save them order on aliexpress.
The adapters look like this:
The second most difficult option is that the car does not have audio preparation, but a radio tape recorder was previously installed (for example, a cassette).
In this case, you need to replace the radio connector with a new connector (or maybe you’ll be lucky and they will match).
The diagram for connecting a car radio looks like this:
Most likely after you cut off the old radio connector (it’s better to do this with the battery terminal removed). You will have several wires and you need to determine where they are coming from, usually you need to find the permanent positive, positive from the ignition, ground and speakers.
How it's done?
— We expose the wires using a utility knife and arrange them so that they do not short-circuit.
— We put the terminal on the battery.
— We connect one terminal of the test lamp (or multimeter) to the car body (ground) and with the second terminal, sequentially, we touch each of the exposed wires. When the light comes on or the multimeter shows voltage, congratulations, you have found a permanent positive.
— It’s better to immediately twist it with the radio connector (usually the wire is yellow and BAT +12v is written on it) and insulate it with heat shrink or electrical tape. A fuse with a rating of 10-15 amperes must be installed on this wire.
— We are looking for the plus from the ignition switch, to do this we open the lock to the “ignition on” position and similarly, using a multimeter or a light bulb, we look for the required wire. The found wire must be connected to the red wire of the radio connector (usually ACC+ is written on the wire); we do not isolate it yet!
Note (sometimes this wire is connected to a permanent positive, but in this case the radio will drain the battery, since it will not have a standby mode)
— We are looking for ground, to do this we disconnect the control lamp from the body and connect it to the last twist we just made and connect the second terminal of the control (multimeter) in series with the remaining wires. Once the light comes on (or the multimeter shows voltage), you have found ground. We connect it with a twist to the black wire of the radio connector (usually it is labeled gnd, ground)
— We isolate it and the plus from the ignition switch.
All of you can connect the radio. If everything is done correctly, it will light up.... But you also need to connect speakers and an antenna to the radio.
Connecting speakers.
You have 10 wires left. One of them is an antenna cable, one plus antenna power and 8 wires from the speakers.
Wires from speakers usually come in pairs, but their markings are not always correct. Therefore, we need a crown battery.
We attach it to a pair of wires for 1-2 seconds and listen to which speaker clicks. Next, we look at the speaker itself and connect the battery again. If the speaker goes forward, then the polarity is correct, and we screw it + to + and – to -, in accordance with the diagram. If the speaker goes inside, it means the polarity is wrong and we connect it the other way around.
Here's a video on how to determine speaker polarity:
It is very important to monitor the polarity, otherwise the sound in the car will be of very poor quality!
We consistently check and connect all the speakers, front left. Rear left, rear right, front right.
Connecting an antenna usually does not cause any difficulties.
Here is a short video about connecting a car radio, but the red and yellow colors are mixed up (as written correctly in the article):
The third most difficult option is to install a car radio in a car without audio preparation for the first time.
Don't be alarmed, there is a lot less text here since there is no need to determine the purpose of the wires. The labor intensity is higher since we will be laying these wires!
The connection diagram does not change:
- We draw a constant positive from the battery, always through a 10-15 ampere fuse, with a wire of 2.5-4 squares!
There is an option to take a permanent plus from the cigarette lighter, but as practice has shown, usually the cigarette lighter is powered by a 1.5 square meter wire and has a 10 ampere fuse. In my car, when the tire inflation pump was connected and the radio was running, this fuse burned out!
- We look under the panel (for example, on the fuse block or on the ignition switch) for the wire where the plus appears when the ignition is turned on, and accordingly, from there we pull the wire to the plus of the radio, which is responsible for turning it on. You can hook this wire to a permanent plus, but the radio will drain the battery!
- We lay the ground wire and securely fasten it to the body (for example, to fasten a panel to the body)
- We install the speakers in their regular places and lay their wires, be sure to observe the polarity!
- We connect the antenna and its control wire.
The installation of the radio is complete, you have just saved 1.5-3 tr.
The most complex option is that the car radio is installed in a car with non-standard wiring (trucks and vintage cars).
Most car radios are designed for 12 volt power. Most trucks use a voltage standard of 24 volts, so when you connect a 12-volt car radio to a 24-volt network, it will inevitably fail.
Therefore, they connect the car radio to one battery (the one with the minus side attached to the car body), and from its plus they pull the wire into the cab to the radio. This solution does exist, but it has a significant drawback - after 1-2 weeks of inactivity, the battery will be severely discharged and it will be impossible to start the engine without charging it!
To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to use a special voltage converter. It looks like this:
Usually they refuse the memory of the radio and connect the device according to this scheme:
As a result, the memory function of the radio will not be used, but it will not drain the battery and, most importantly, there is no need to run a non-standard wire from the battery into the cabin.
The converters themselves are sold in online stores; as an option, consider purchasing on aliexpress.
In the case of vintage cars, non-standard supply voltages (6 volts) or + on the car body are possible. Connecting a car radio in such cars is decided individually each time and has no general recommendations.
That's all for me today. Smooth roads and reliable radios to everyone.
