During the operation of the bicycle, a situation may arise in which it is necessary to remove the chain from the bicycle frame. There may be several reasons: replacing the chain due to wear, the need to remove the chain for complete cleaning, work to increase the number of links (increasing the chain) or reducing the number of links, breaking the chain during operation. As you can see for yourself, it will not be possible to remove it from the bicycle frame without disconnecting one of the links of the chain - which means you will have to disconnect it.
Chains from different manufacturers differ in the type of link connection. For example, some Shimano chains do not have connecting links, and some are supplied with a special connecting pin (pin) to facilitate the first installation of the chain on the bicycle. There are also chains with special locking links. Such a lock link is usually highlighted on the chain with color. It can be easily disconnected and reconnected without the use of special tools.
Removing the chain with lock
Unlocking a bicycle chain is very easy. To do this, you need to take the lock link in your hands and move its pins (pins) with your hands or pliers towards each other. After this, the two halves of the lock link should separate from each other, and each will remain with its own pin.
In order to disconnect the circuit, it is necessary to press out one of the pins using a squeezer. In this case, you should pay attention that you cannot press out the connecting pin, which is available in some circuits. The fact is that this pin is slightly thicker than the others and is subject to more wear. Reusing it dramatically increases the risk of chain breakage. The connecting pin is different from the rest - so it is quite easy to distinguish it.
So, when the squeeze pin is selected, you need to install the squeezer on the circuit. Many wringer have two seats for the chain. The chain should be placed closer to the adjusting screw, otherwise its links or the squeeze itself can be hopelessly damaged. The second seat for the circuit is not involved when disconnecting it. To understand how to insert a chain, it is best that the squeeze is in a state like the image below:
Next, you need to tighten the adjusting screw and tighten the squeeze screw until the squeeze is held on the chain. It is worth checking that the adjusting screw does not allow the link to bend, and that the tip of the squeezer presses exactly on the pin, and not on the link. In this case, there should be no distortions or any strange positions of the chain in the squeeze.
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| The chain is fixed in the squeeze. |
Once you have made sure that everything is installed correctly, you can begin to rotate the squeeze screw. At the same time, it can rotate with decent effort. You should not rotate quickly, because if you want to later reconnect the link in this place, then it is necessary that the pin does not come out of the outer part of the link, otherwise it will be very difficult to put it back. If you are doing this procedure for the first time, do not be lazy, rotate slowly, remove the chain often and check how far the pin has come out.
If everything is done correctly, the circuit will be disconnected. Remember that if you frequently disconnect and connect a circuit, it is best to press different pins. After each pin squeeze, the reliability of this node decreases.
The chain is a key element of the transmission unit of a bicycle. Consistently passing through the teeth of the drive stars, it transmits torque to the rear wheel, thanks to which the bicycle moves. During movement, the chain mechanism is subjected to dynamic loads, which eventually leads to its wear.
On singlespeed, as a rule, the chain is designed for its entire service life: when moving along the stars, it runs smoothly and straight, without deviations. The situation is more complicated with chains on multi-speed bicycles: there is no right angle between the front and rear sprockets, which is why it is always located at an angle relative to the frame. The impact on the chain mechanism increases several times compared to parallel transmission, which leads to periodic wear. To avoid damage to the entire transmission unit caused by chain wear, it must be replaced in a timely manner.
Not only “high-speed” chains require removal; quite often they are also removed from single-speed bikes for periodic repairs or cleaning. We will tell you how to remove a chain from a bicycle and put it back in this article.
Symptoms of a problem
First of all, you should pay attention to chain malfunctions on multi-speed bikes. Traditionally, riding time is determined by mileage, but these values are too approximate, because everything depends on the conditions of cycling: the quality of the roads, the selection of gears, speed, the load on the pedals and, accordingly, on the front sprockets.
The first signs of a bicycle chain failure are inaccurate gear shifting and suspicious sounds (provided that the chain has not lost its lubrication). The following method will certainly help you determine the malfunction: bend it away from the largest sprocket and look at the number of free teeth. If the chain moves freely from three or more teeth, replacement is required urgently. Two teeth “warn” that wear is just around the corner, but you can still ride.
Using the same method, you can see if the chain is loose on a single-speed bicycle: bend it away from the front sprocket and look at the number of teeth.
Determination of the degree of attenuation
Another way to determine wear is to measure the length:
- 304.8 mm is the optimal chain length.
- 306.5 – 307.5 – average wear, suitability for repair. You can still drive.
- 308 mm – high degree of wear of both chain and sprockets.
- More than 308 mm – damage to the entire transmission.
Measuring elongation requires removing the chain completely from the bike.
Lock and solid chains
The locking chain is equipped with a special clamping device. It is not difficult to unhook and put it on - you just need to disconnect the lock. To find it, carefully examine the chain on both sides and find a split link. In principle, it will not be difficult to find it on a clean chain: there is a plier on top that fixes the link and does not allow it to move apart. Also, the manufacturer's inscription is usually stamped on the lock link. If you can’t find the lock for a long time, then either the chain is dirty, or it is lockless, or solid.
Bicycle chain with lock
You can’t just disconnect a bicycle chain without a lock: all the links on it look the same, however, they are also interlocked. This causes great inconvenience during cleaning; for example, it is necessary to carry out “general cleaning” in a solvent. In the case of the keyhole, everything is simple - steal it and put it in kerosene. A solid bicycle chain, even removed from the sprockets, will remain hanging on the frame.
In terms of removal, a chain with a lock is certainly more convenient than its counterpart. However, for some reason the fastening may become loose: the pincer may fly off, and the link itself may come loose. Bicycle chains without locks do not have such weak points, and if it breaks, then the matter is solely in its quality.
Opening the lock and squeezing the link axis
Opening the lock is quite simple: use a screwdriver or other object (for example, a knitting needle) to pry up the pincer clamp. The main thing here is not to damage it, and even better, not to lose it, otherwise you won’t be able to fix the chain later. Next, we uncouple the entire link. That’s it, you can remove the chain and do whatever you want with it: clean it, throw it away or shorten it. However, we'll talk about this a little later.
Lock in disassembled condition
You can disconnect a continuous chain only with a special tool - a squeezer. With its help, you can easily disassemble the link without damage. The procedure is simple, but there is no need to rush:
- First, select a link for disassembly.
- We insert the chain into the position of pressing out and pressing in the pin (link axis).
- We tighten the screw with a handle and pull out the axle. The direction of extrusion is towards the squeeze screw, that is, towards yourself.
You should not remove the pin completely, as it will not be easy to return it to its place later.
Hall chain release device
Squeezing loosens the axle a little, so when disengaging again, you should select a different link.
Pressing the axle into a link is carried out in the opposite order: connect adjacent links and press the pin with a screw.
Elimination of defects
A common type of wear is sagging of the chain when its length increases relative to the original. Previously, critical values of the length of a bicycle chain were considered at which it cannot be used. Everything is true, but the chain does not have to be thrown away immediately, but can be repaired. Under prolonged loads, the axles become loose, which causes longitudinal and transverse expansion. It is impossible to eliminate the transverse one, but it is quite possible to tinker with the longitudinal one.
The extra links must be removed in such a way that the chain runs smoothly and without tension along the large sprocket. Using a squeezer, excess links are removed, and the axle shafts are completely pulled out from the elements being removed. The main thing here is not to make a mistake and not pull out too many links.
If you have to drive with a stretched chain, then in order to prevent it from falling off, you can install so-called parts that prevent the chain from flying off when driving. There are several types of such devices:
- Roller with two locks.
- With wide casters.
- Frame (or rollerless).
This is what dampers look like on a bike
Using dampers as protection is, of course, good, but it would be better to think about changing the chain.
Installing a chain on a bicycle
To install a chain on a singlespeed, you just need to hang it on both sprockets, press in a pin or snap the lock. With high-speed bikes it will be a little more difficult:
- Fix the derailleurs on the small chainrings.
- Taking into account the location of the tension rollers, put the chain on the sprockets.
- Combine the links.
- Clamp the chain and press in the axle. If the bicycle chain has a lock, we do without squeezing it.
After the installation is completed, you need to check the chain movement: spin the pedals several times. If there is no sagging or difficulty during torsion, then the chain has the optimal length and is installed correctly.
Every owner of a two-wheeled horse can cope with the removal and installation of a bicycle chain. A simple and simple procedure will not take much time, but it will be a great help on future trips!
Edited: 03/10/2017
In the last article we looked at the question of how.
One method involved removing the chain from the bicycle. A natural question arises - how to quickly and easily remove a chain from a bicycle.
The first thing I want to say right away is that it is best to work with a chain while wearing gloves - there is less chance of getting your hands dirty with oil and then having to wash them for a long time. But, in general, this advice is not for everyone.
Here you need to understand the following: chains come with a special lock and chains without a lock.
Locks and chains differ in the type of locking. In a multi-speed chain, the rivets should practically not protrude above the side plates, otherwise they will interfere. A locking link for a multi-speed chain consists of two halves, each of which is a jaw with a pin pressed into one side.
Even if your chain does not initially have a lock, it is better to install one when you first remove the chain and decide to wash it. Believe me, it will be much easier to remove and install the chain in the future. There are many separate locks sold online for a wide variety of chains, both single-speed and multi-speed models.
Removing a chain that has a special lock on it
Removing such chains is easy and simple, it takes 1-2 minutes. You simply release the lock and the chain is removed.
There are even special tools for this and they can be purchased online or in specialized bicycle shops. They work both in expansion and compression, so that they can be used to remove and install the lock.
But our man is not looking for easy ways, and not every bicycle lover agrees to spend money on such tools, so all this can be done with the help of ordinary pliers or round nose pliers.
If the lock is tight and won't give in easily, you can try to remove it using an old brake or gear shift cable, strong rope or wire. To do this, the wire is threaded between the locking links, as shown in the figure. Using a pair of pliers, we grab both edges and sharply pull in opposite directions, releasing the lock.
Video on how to remove a chain lock using a rope
Some chains are removed entirely by hand. How this is done is shown in this video.
Removing a chain without a lock using a chain squeezer
Here everything is not as simple as in the previous case, although this also does not present any great difficulties.
In this case, a special tool called chain squeezing (bike squeezing). They come in both separate versions and in the form, which is much more convenient when traveling or at home.
We will now look at how to use a chain squeezer.
First, we select the link that we will disassemble. If the chain is being disassembled for the first time, it can be any link, but it is better to look for the link that was used to assemble the chain at the factory when assembling the bicycle. This pin usually stands out from the rest. If the chain has already been disassembled in this way, then it is better to choose another link, and not the one that was last time. This is due to the fact that squeezing slightly loosens the pin.
Now we just slowly turn the knob, squeezing out the pin. And here is the most important thing: constantly check that the pin does not pop out completely. If it jumps out, it is very difficult to insert it back (even using all the capabilities of the great and mighty Russian language).
One more small point: be careful not to lose the roller from the link in which the pin was squeezed out. Otherwise there will be problems later.
Reassembling the chain then occurs in the reverse order. You connect the links, insert the pin, not forgetting about the roller, and use the squeeze screw to press the pin back.
Video on how to remove a chain using a chain squeezer.
Is it possible to remove a bicycle chain without squeezing it?
Of course you can. Nothing is impossible for our people. In distant childhood, when there were no all these devices and tools to remove a chain or link from a bicycle chain, we used an ordinary hammer and a thin bolt or nail.
The chain was placed on a nut or so that the axle was in a narrow crack between the stones on the curb (so that it had somewhere to squeeze out), a nail was placed against the axle and, slowly tapping it with a hammer or just another stone, the pin was knocked out. The main thing was not to knock out the pin completely. The chain was also put back together.
Soviet models withstood this kind of treatment, but modern chains for models are unlikely to withstand such treatment. They are too tender for that. You can simply bend a chain link. So it's better to use a chain squeezer for all these jobs.
Depending on the style of riding, the question of removing the chain arises either almost immediately after the start of riding, for example, in trials or downhill, or after many kilometers of walking, when maintenance and replacement of the chain is required.
Chain Removal Situations
It is very important, and there may be several reasons for removing the chain:
- Deep cleaning - it is recommended to remove all elements from time to time and clean them of grease and accumulated abrasive.
- Damage and replacement of links.
- Replacing a worn chain.
- Changing the length with a new chainring combination, for example on a mountain bike.
Wear at home is primarily determined by stretching. A stretched chain is a cause for concern, as misaligned links will seriously damage the sprockets and can be dangerous to the derailleurs.
It is quite difficult to notice wear by eye, and to determine it there is an indicator - the length of 24 links:
- if it is 305 mm (304.8 value for the new kit), everything is in order;
- 306.5-307.5 mm – it’s time to change;
- 307.5 mm – if the bike was still in use with such wear, then most likely the entire set of sprockets is damaged;
- 308 mm – the value of the damaged transmission.
Example of stretched links
Objectively, it is recommended to service the transmission every 500 kilometers, but this value is not fixed, since 50 kilometers on rough terrain with a lot of sand and dirt can correspond in terms of wear to another thousand on clean city roads.
Some people choose to cut the chain, but the stretch is usually evenly distributed and the links can still damage the sprockets beyond repair.
Important points
In addition to conventional devices, there are models with a lock - a special link, which is slightly different in shape from the others, and allows you to open the link using reverse tension without using a squeezer or other tools, the main thing is to position the lock link correctly. It is not recommended to open the links near the lock, as this will reduce the reliability of the entire mechanism.
It is very important before you begin to remove it to remember how the chain is wound onto the system, cassette and switches - without having a little experience in installation and disassembly, it may be difficult to put it back on.
Standard removal process
All guides describe the same procedure for removal. To do this, you will need, first of all, a small set of tools - without them it will be quite difficult.
Tools
- rear wheel removal wrench;
- pliers for holding segments and pins;
- squeezer - a device for pressing out pins, without a lock - the most important tool in the process.
Process
Let's take a step-by-step look at how to remove a chain from a bicycle:
- We clean the links from dirt - it will interfere with each subsequent step.
- Removing the rear wheel is not a necessary step, but it is much easier to work without it.
- Press out the pin (the metal cylinder that closes each link) using a squeezer.
- Disconnect one link.
- Remove the outer links from the switches.
The reverse sequence is similar - put the chain in place and assemble the structure back, riveting the pin using a squeezer and rotating it in the opposite direction.
No tools
In the absence of a squeeze, you can install everything back without it. Pliers and any strong cylinder, for example, a small hexagon, will help. By carefully clamping the cylinder, the pin can be riveted in the same way as a squeezer, it just requires much more attention and force.
Models with a lock can be unlocked using a tight rope or cable. This allows for quick repairs literally in the field, for example, when the chain suddenly breaks on a short hike.
Removing the lock link without tools
Conclusion
Removing a chain from a bicycle is very easy if you have a simple tool or basic knowledge of the process. The most important thing is to act carefully, as forceful squeezing can be dangerous.
If you ride a bicycle for many kilometers, the spare parts will sooner or later wear out. After a long mileage, the bicycle chain will “stretch” and will need to be replaced.
Technically the chain does not stretch, but the pins that connect the links wear out, increasing the length of the chain.
Stretched chain accelerates wear on the cassette and chain rings on the sprocket, so getting a new chain when the stretching is already noticeable is a good idea. It is recommended to replace the chain every 1000-1500 kilometers. By the way, replacing a chain is much cheaper than replacing cassettes or chain rings on a sprocket.
The chain repair and shortening information below will be very helpful.
Bicycle chain parts and necessary tools
Chain wear indicator: A typical chain wear indicator hooks onto a pin in the chain while the other end is inserted between two pins or rollers. The numbers on the tool will show how worn the chain is and whether it is time to change it.
New chain: The type of chain depends on the number of speeds of the bicycle. So, for example, if the bike is 9-speed, you need to buy a 9-speed chain. More advanced chains include a special coating that will delay the appearance of rust, or they are already made of stainless steel.
Replacing pins or connecting link: New chains immediately come with a new pin or special link called a connecting link that connects the 2 ends of the chain together.
If you are repairing an existing chain, you will need to buy replacement pins or connecting links separately - they must be compatible with the chain speed and brand.
Squeeze: If you have a standard link chain, you will need a compatible puller that will allow you to easily remove the old pin and install the new one when disconnecting and joining the chain.
Pliers: If you have a chain that connects to a connecting link, you will need pliers to make the process of disconnecting and connecting the connecting link easier.
How to check a bicycle chain
To check the chain for significant stretch, use. Hook one end onto a roller or pin in the chain. The other end will either come to the drive wheel itself, or you can place it in the gap between the two rollers. If it falls out of this gap, the chain is so stretched that it needs to be replaced.
The chain wear indicator has numbers that indicate how worn the chain is. A value between 0.5 and 0.75 indicates that the chain needs to be replaced. A value of 0.75 or higher means that it is necessary not only to replace it, but also to check the condition of the cassette and drive sprockets, since stretching the chain could cause significant damage to the cassette and drive sprockets.
You can check the chain in another way - measure the chain with a ruler or tape measure. On an unworn or new chain, 12 full links (measured from pin to pin) should equal 12 inches (30.48 cm). If the 12 links are 31 cm or longer in length, the chain needs to be replaced.
How to remove a chain from a bicycle
To remove the chain from the bicycle, you will need to disconnect it (break it). There are several ways to do this, depending on whether the chain has a connecting link or not. 
Before you begin, move the chain to the smallest sprocket and smallest cog.
It will be even better if you remove the chain from the front sprocket or remove the rear wheel from the bike. Both of these methods will remove tension from the chain.
If you have a standard chain without a connecting link: Install the squeezer so that the squeezer pin aligns with the pin in the chain. Turn the release handle until you pull the pin out far enough to break the chain. 
If you have a chain with a connecting link: To find a connecting link, look for a link that is noticeably different from the others.
This is the place where you can break the chain.
The connecting link has a pin on one side inserted into a notch on the other side.
Using pliers, squeeze the connecting link on both sides until it opens.
How to determine the length of the new chain?
Usually the new chain is too long, so it will have to be shortened by removing links. There are several ways to do this. The easiest and best way to determine the length of a new chain– attach it to the old chain. Then you just need to shorten it to match the old one (to be sure, you should count the number of links). 
Another variant. Thread the chain through the front derailer and drape it over the large sprocket at the front and over the large cog at the rear. Do not run the chain through the rear derailleur yet. Connect the two ends of the chain tightly. If the chain connects and there are still 2 whole links left on the overlap (the half of the link will still remain at the end - the place where you connect the chain), the chain length is correct.
Note: Many full suspension mountain bikes use a design that moves the rear axle further away from the bottom bracket while the bike is riding, through the suspension; it is called " chain growth" To accommodate the chain growth, you will need to compress the rear suspension a lot when using the method above.
Before removing unnecessary links, make sure that the two ends of the chain will connect. A chain can only connect if the outside of the link connects to the inside of the connecting link. Then disconnect the remaining links.
Bicycle Chain Installation
It's time to thread the chain through the rear derailleur and connect it. Pay attention and make sure the chain fits exactly through the drive wheel on the rear derailleur.
Using pins: If the chain does not have a connecting link, then use a squeezer to connect the chain to the pin that is already in the new chain.
If you are repairing an old chain, always use a new pin instead of the old one. The new pin must be compatible with the chain, its speed and brand. The new pin must be inserted halfway using a squeezer, then pulled out on the other side using pliers. 
Using connecting links: If you are connecting a chain with a connecting link, place each half of it on each end of the chain, connect the ends of the chain, assemble the connecting link with a tool to put it in place.
It is also possible to connect the connecting link without tools. Connect it and pull the chain in different directions to lock the connecting link as much as possible. Then loosen the derailer clutch, if equipped, and rotate the pedals so that the connecting link is at the top of the drive chain. Using the brakes, step firmly on one pedal, tension will be applied to the chain and it will snap into place.
How to replace a chain on a bicycle - video
