Lubricate the bicycle chain with sunflower oil. Motor oil for lubricating bicycle chains. Choosing the right chain. What to do with the new chain. Drip and aerosol lubrication

There are so many types of chain lube available on the bicycle market that it becomes a huge challenge to choose. Each manufacturer insists that its product is better, and the seller tries to sell the most expensive product, talking about its merits. The focus of this article is on bicycle chains, what they are like, how they are used correctly and how they differ from competitors.

Types of lubricating oils

In the markets, bicycle lubricants can be found in several types, each of which stands out from its competitors with its special properties.

1. Aerosol lubricants. Under high pressure, together with air, the lubricant enters the chain in the form of foam and, due to its aggregate state, penetrates into hard-to-reach components. After waiting 10-15 minutes, you need to wipe the remaining substance dry with a dry rag. This bicycle chain lube is not only durable, but also the most effective, because a dry chain will not attract dust. There is only one inconvenience - it takes a lot of time to clean the chain of lubricant residues.
2. Liquid oils. The most popular type of lubricant is sold with a special dispenser for ease of use. Liquid oils cost pennies on the market, but are inferior in effectiveness to all competitors.
3. Two-component lubricants. A volatile solvent containing thick oil is applied to the chain. into hard-to-reach nodes, the solvent evaporates and the oil thickens.

Popular Teflon

Bicycle lubricant TF2, which is available in aerosol form and in oil cans, differs from its competitors in the best resistance to dirt and dust, because it contains Teflon. Before application, it is necessary to completely wash the chain from dirt and dry it well. This is the main requirement of the manufacturer, which guarantees long service life. The lubricant is applied evenly to the chain and carefully wiped off from oil leaks. After 10-15 minutes, the chain must be wiped dry with a rag. The Teflon component declared by the manufacturer in the lubricant should create an enveloping film over the entire surface, which will repel dust and dirt. After driving a couple of kilometers after cleaning, you will notice that the bicycle chain lube has again appeared on the surface in the form of droplets. This happens due to heat and pressure in the circuit during operation. Excess oil should be removed with a rag. With such effective lubrication, for 150-200 kilometers on dry terrain, the chains are not afraid of either dust or dirt.

Lubricant from a bicycle component manufacturer

If there are components under the Shimano brand, then there should also be accessories from a famous brand for maintenance and care. Naturally, their quality must match the brand. Shimano WET 100 bicycle lubricant is rightfully considered the best in the professional cycling segment. The lubricant is intended for wet weather, because it contains components with high binding properties. In addition, after lubrication, a water-repellent film is formed on the surface of the chain, which can easily cope not only with moisture, but also with dirt. At a low price, this option contains components that prevent the formation of corrosion and rust, so many athletes, in addition to the chain, lubricate the rotating parts of the bicycle, trying to protect themselves from contamination. Such extensive functionality has only one drawback - fragility. At the end of the cycling race, you need to completely rinse all lubricated components, wipe dry and re-lubricate.

The Russian brand will not give up its position

When wondering which lubricant is best for a bicycle chain, many Russian buyers argue among themselves, defending Japanese, German and American brands. Few people know that the Russian market has its own bicycle chain lubricant. Unlike competitors, only it is capable of working in the conditions that exist in Russia. Nanoprotech bicycle lubricant has no analogues in the world, because it contains components that provide protection from an aggressive environment, which includes all kinds of reagents, including salt, sprinkled on the country's roads in winter. The manufacturer chose to release the product in aerosol form, providing the user with ease of maintenance. There is a lot of information on the cylinder, which at first raises doubts about its veracity, but after a month of active use in the winter, all questions to the manufacturer disappear. Professionals recommend Nanoprotech lubricant to all cyclists who use it all year round.

In a sandstorm

Motorex bicycle chain lube is not an all-season product. She has a slightly different task. Biodegradable oil is designed for use in conditions of maximum dust and low humidity. Sand racing, quarries, mountain slopes - this is her environment. In addition to the chain, the manufacturer recommends using the same lubricant for treating brake cables and switches, as well as moving components. Available in aerosol form and in the form of an oil can. In our market, the Swiss manufacturer Motorex is better known for its products for depreciation service. Low cost and high quality quickly attracted its customers. However, Motorex brand bicycle chain lubricant, for unknown reasons, occupies the most expensive niche and will be unaffordable for many bicycle owners.

Generation Bio for nature protection

Bicycle chain lubricant from the manufacturer of bicycle accessories Zefal is positioned as an organic substance that can decompose in nature after use without polluting the environment. In the 21st century, this is a pressing problem, and many manufacturers make good money on the word Bio, including the manufacturer Zefal. After all, if you think logically, all lubricants are created on an organic basis, they just don’t indicate this on the packaging. Upon closer examination of the lubricant, the user will note its excellent all-season qualities. Ability to work in aggressive environments, in frost and hot weather. And the low price will give that impetus that is so lacking at the time of purchase.

Luxury oil market

There is a market for luxury oils that are brought from abroad in a roundabout way and distributed like Amway cosmetics, without advertising and worldwide scope. It cannot be said that the bicycle chain lubricant offered to the buyer from an unknown brand is of poor quality. Perhaps it will be better than the market leader. However, there is no certainty that the contents of the cylinder or oil can are what the manufacturer says. After all, goods enter the market without quality certificates, and no one is responsible for them. As an example, you can find the following brands:

1. LIDER. Made in Germany. Very high quality lubricant. It contains molybdenum disulfide, which allows the chain to operate for a long time at high temperatures and in aggressive environments. The cost of one bottle can reach up to 25 thousand rubles, which is comparable to the price of an inexpensive second-hand bicycle.
2. no names. They are designed for rubbing surfaces, but not for the chain.

The bicycle is a unique mechanical invention of mankind. And, of course, it needs lubrication to improve performance. Proper lubrication of all moving parts is necessary to reduce friction between them and facilitate movement. Therefore, beginners ask themselves: when and how to do it correctly?

Special oils, liquid in consistency, are suitable for lubricating all types of chains and shock-absorbing systems. The structure of the oil penetrates well into hard-to-reach places, ensuring further uninterrupted operation of bicycle components and components.

When is the best time to clean up your bike?
Do not forget that before lubrication it is necessary to clean the body of the part from dirt. To do this, you will need the following necessary tools and tools: a bucket of very hot water, car shampoo or dishwashing detergent, brushes, sponges, an old toothbrush for hard-to-reach places, narrow flat-head screwdrivers, degreaser, rags. We wash the bike and let it dry for several hours or wipe it with a rag. Only then do we begin the procedure of lubricating the parts.

Quick cleaning
This procedure serves as an intermediate procedure between major cleanings. This can be removing dirt from the chain without directly dismantling it. To do this, you can wash the chain from dirt with a rag and a brush, or use a special machine for cleaning the chain. It all depends on the capabilities of your budget.

Major cleaning
To do this you will have to remove the chain from the bike. Depending on whether there is a connecting link on the chain or not, additional squeezing may be necessary. After dismantling the chain, place it in a container with a cleaning agent and, using a brush and rags, wash it until it is as clean as possible.

It is better to change the water in the container after each product. In addition to the chain, it is worth cleaning other important components well. For convenience, it is recommended to remove the rear wheel to wash the cassette and disassemble the rear derailleur tab with rollers, then get to the tensioner roller, if the tensioner itself is installed on the bicycle.

Cleaning and lubricants
Experienced cyclists recommend several topical products for excellent cleaning of dirt and lubrication of the bike.

WD-40
Sprayer with a thin and long tubular nozzle. A huge plus of the product is easy access to labor-intensive connections of components. It will help remove rust and clean the surface of old grease.

Two-component aerosol
The product is ideal for cleaning and lubricating switches, threads and cables. The aerosol can is adapted to work even in hard-to-reach places to envelop bicycle parts. If you need to separate damaged parts, use LM40 and LM47 aerosols. Among the key ingredients is kerosene. It is this substance that will carefully carry out this difficult procedure. Excess product can be removed with a cloth.

Liquid oil
A universal product for all types of chains and shock absorbers. The structure of the oil envelops the surface of the treated area 100%. Characterized by a long-lasting effect for uninterrupted operation of parts. The disadvantage is that the consistency thickens greatly in the cold and the possible collection of dirt when riding in bad weather.

Calcium-containing lubricants
A popular type of grease for caring for all kinds of parts and components. The advantage of such a lubricant is stability on the surface of parts (formation of a protective layer for excellent operation of the bicycle). Unlike lithium products, they have a high level of adhesion and anti-corrosion effect. Bicycle “cosmetics” containing calcium do not react with aluminum, so they are more expensive and are used to care for expensive bikes. The product will take care of sealing the connections.

Lithium Greases
They will help keep the chassis of the bicycle in perfect order. Such lubricants are suitable for maintaining bearing axles and carriages. A substance called lithium gives the product a specific slip; it does not thicken at temperatures down to -50°C and does not liquefy when heated to +150°C. A negative nuance is the high level of water solubility.

Lubricants with silicone
Easy to apply to bike parts. They are able to “repel” dust and water, but dry out faster.

Teflon-based lubricants
The composition uses a substance for all types of chains. The liquid has an extremely low coefficient of friction relative to the contacting solid surfaces of the chain. For better penetration into hard-to-reach areas, Teflon lubricant is diluted with oil or solvent. The ratio of components depends on the operating conditions (dry asphalt, dusty primers or wet roads). It comes in the form of an aerosol can, but its use is fraught with consumption too quickly, so it is better to give preference to the liquid analogue.

Wax lubricants
Can last for several months under dry riding conditions. Frequent mechanical cleaning of the chain is not required. But the wax itself can fall off over time in the form of scales and flakes. This type of lubricant is difficult to treat hard-to-reach areas.

Graphite lubricants
Good tools for overloaded nodes. An important plus is the long-term effect. The downside is that the lubricant very much stains everything that comes into contact with it.

How to properly carry out the lubrication procedure?
Start lubricating your bike from any part. Lubricate the cassettes and chain stars several times and rotate the connecting rods counterclockwise. A small amount of lubricant is sufficient. Remember that it should not be too thick. Your comfort of riding a bicycle depends on the regularity of the procedure - the chain will not buzz, you will immediately feel ease and freedom in changing gears. In addition to lubrication, monitor the mileage of the bicycle chain. On average, after every two thousand kilometers the part requires replacement due to sagging, unclear gear shifting and damage to the cassette sprockets on the rear wheel.

To lubricate the brakes, clamp them and apply the product to the cable and joint, the points where the cable enters the jacket. If your bike is equipped with V-brakes, be careful not to get oil on the rim - otherwise, the rim must be wiped, otherwise the braking efficiency will be reduced to zero. Aerosol products for more dosed spraying are best suited for lubrication. Apply a drop of oil to the cable exit and entry points.

The carriage is one of the key components of the bicycle, which sets the working impulse for other parts of the device. The speed and ease of movement depends on its condition. To lubricate the carriage, you will need a thicker product than for the chain or cables.

Bearings in wheel axles require frequent lubrication. The care scheme for them is identical to the previous one.

All moving elements in the front and rear derailleurs must be lubricated. They often become clogged with deposits from a thickened mass of grease and dirt around the perimeter. They can be carefully removed with a flat screwdriver. Move the switch in different directions to see which parts require more lubrication. Don't forget to treat the rear derailleur roller bearings - they directly affect pedaling.

To treat the rollers, you need to apply a liquid product precisely on the axles to relieve them from squeaking and tight rotation. Rollers in a lubricated state are able to rotate with minimal resistance. For the procedure, experts recommend using aerosol products. When lubricating a chain, it is important to apply lubricant to each link, preferably in a thin layer. If you are using liquid lubricant, you can use a syringe or oil can for more precise application.

Caring for the front shock absorber allows you to travel over difficult terrain with greater comfort. A good shock absorber handles both small and large bumps, so you should keep it in good condition. Depending on weather conditions, oil of a certain viscosity is poured into the suspension fork, the same is true for the rear shock absorber.

After lubrication, you should spin the pedals, press the brake levers a couple of times, and change gears. Remove excess grease so that it does not collect dust later. When using an aerosol, you must ensure that the jet reaches all hard-to-reach places. Avoid getting oil on tires, rims, disc brake rotors and other parts.

Chain cleaning machine: necessary or not?
Not all newfangled devices turn out to be particularly useful. At first glance, this device may make life easier for a novice cyclist and will be completely unnecessary for an experienced cyclist. In any case, you should not leave the chain without proper care.

There are several types of bicycle chain cleaning machines. They differ in configuration, price and durability. The most budget models produced by Bike, Barbieri, Hand and Birzman are machines with three cleaning wheels and a convenient reservoir. The more expensive machine from Kettenmax has all the necessary additional components in its arsenal. Essentially, the final choice will depend on your financial capabilities. The key advantage of the machine is the ability to care for the chain without removing the part from the bicycle.

To begin the procedure, you need to place the chain directly into the machine. The container is filled in advance to the middle of the rollers with a washing solution (the norm is 50 ml). After this, smooth rotation of the pedals is ensured. Hold the car and the bicycle at the same time. To carry out the procedure in a living room, it is better to protect the floor with pieces of cloth or cover it with paper. The cleaned chain must dry and only then can lubricant be applied.

Optimal intervals between lubrications
There are no clearly defined standards - it all depends on the owner of the bicycle. It is enough to carry out the lubrication procedure a couple of times a season to extend the durability of the bicycle - at the beginning and at the end. After heavy extreme loads, it is advisable to wash the bike and take the time to re-lubricate the parts and connections. Some cyclists lubricate the chain after every hundred kilometers, regardless of weather conditions.

What should not be used to lubricate a bicycle chain?
Experts strongly do not recommend using thick lubricants - this will prevent the product from properly penetrating into all the necessary places. Another disadvantage is the accumulation of road dust. Do not use concentrated grease and litol, sunflower oil.

It is advisable to avoid using automotive gear oils and oil fluids for lubricating sewing machines. They attract dust - after two trips you will have to clean the dirty chain again. Also, such oils are very afraid of moisture, which cannot be avoided in rainy weather.

Results
Remember that the modern market is full of bicycle cleaning fluids. This is all good, but car shampoo and hot water will have a similar effect. The key to removing dirt is hot water, and all cleaning liquids simply speed up the procedure and save time.

So, for cheap bicycles, a cheap lubricant will be optimal. Lithium will be out of competition. It can be purchased at any auto parts store. For expensive bikes, it makes sense to purchase calcium lubricants because they do not react chemically with aluminum alloys and do not wash out as quickly with water. To care for threaded connections, you can choose a high-quality graphite lubricant.

If you love your bike, polish it with a soft cloth and paint polish. As a result, it will look “shiny” and become more protected from the adhesion of dirt.

The high-quality work of the bicycle components determines the speed, ease and noiselessness of its movement. One of the main components of the device is the bicycle chain, which ensures the transmission of torque from one sprocket, the drive, to another, the driven one.

Why lubricate a bicycle chain?

In modern bicycles, the chain is a structure that consists of a large number of identical elements called links. Its components are two plates, a roller and a special connecting pin. The operation of the entire unit and its service life depend on its condition.

Maintenance of this unit is quite a serious procedure: the chain must be kept clean. When using a bicycle on high-quality dirt and asphalt roads in dry weather, ensuring the necessary cleanliness of the chain is not particularly difficult.

However, frequent use of this vehicle in difficult weather conditions will require some effort from the owner. The appearance of rust in chain links is the result of untimely cleaning of it from residual dirt, sand and clay.

To ensure correct operation of the transmission, it is necessary to use a lubricant that corresponds to weather conditions and the intensity of vehicle use.

Every bicycle owner should know the quality and properties of lubricants in order to properly handle the main parts, including its transmission:

• light oils provide high-quality lubrication of bicycle chain links for riding in dry weather. Good penetration of this type of lubricant into the most inaccessible places of the device increases the service life of its chassis;
• greases- These are oils of a special composition. They are used in humid climates, in damp rainy weather. To ensure uniform penetration of thick oils into bearings, you can pre-mix the lubricant with a highly volatile solvent;
• in dry climates A bicycle transmission can be treated with wax, which, when molten, penetrates the chain links and dries quickly. In dry weather, wax can remain on chain parts for several months. Over time, this lubricant peels off from the surface of the chain mechanism elements;
• using lubricating spray allows for fairly deep processing of transmission links, but its use provides lubrication of fast moving elements for a very short period of time.

Choosing a chain lubricant

Prolonging the service life of such a bicycle is influenced by proper care of all its components. One of the main running parts of a bicycle is the chain.

Its wear is accelerated by:

• poor technical condition of the unit ensuring the movement of transport;
• use of random and low-quality materials for cleaning and lubricating the unit.

To care for every component of the vehicle, the bicycle market offers a wide range of specially developed lubricants and oils. They all provide quality bike care.

Greases are used to lubricate all bicycle components:

• lubricant with the addition of calcium, included in the group of plastic lubricants, is used to process all components of the transport two-wheeled structure. The calcium component of Uniol and Solidol lubricants is retained on the surface of structural elements for a long time, while ensuring their high-quality operation;
• lithium lubrication systems "Fiol", "LITOL-24".
• Lithium greases. Another type of grease. These include: “Litol-24”, “Fiol” and so on.

In addition to the lubricants presented, the following are widely used by cyclists:

• special oils, the liquid consistency of which allows you to process the most inaccessible elements of a bicycle, and ensure its uninterrupted operation for quite a long time, as they make it difficult for dirt to stick to vehicle parts;
• aerosol two-component systems for caring for transport chassis, processing threads, cables, switches. One of the components of such systems may be kerosene, which helps flush the connections of parts to be dismantled. Lubricating aerosols include systems of the “LM40” and “LM47” brands. The liquid consistency of the aerosol penetrates into all parts of the units, after evaporation of the solvent it becomes thick, remaining on the surface of the smallest elements;
• Automotive transmission lubricants are an acceptable material for lubrication of chain mechanisms. Moderate, proper lubrication of the chassis elements of the unit in dry weather will ensure uninterrupted vehicle mileage of 200 km or more;
• liquid lubricating oils in a special package with a dispenser;
• greases They are used only for traveling in dirty, rainy weather or in winter, as they are highly resistant to being washed away by rain and moisture that gets onto the surface of the unit from puddles and streams. However, in dry weather, a lot of dust and dry dirt sticks to such a lubricant;
• modern teflon oils have gained great popularity. This material, after lubricating the parts, provides them with a neat appearance. The correct use of Teflon grease is to first apply it and then dry it at least two hours before using the device. During this time, a strong film should form on the surface of the elements of the treated assembly. Teflon lubricant is designed for a mileage of at least 50 km.

Lubricant manufacturers

To ensure proper and long-term operation of bicycles, manufacturers prefer to produce complex care products. They offer materials that provide cleaning, lubrication, and mixtures for preventative treatment of the bicycle:

• The company offers a very large range of goods necessary for bicycles Shimano. It produces products for general bicycle treatment and individual preparations intended for individual components;
• high quality LIDER lubricant, produced by the company of the same name, contains the substance molybdenum disulfide. This chemical additive ensures flawless operation of the chain at high temperatures;
• by ZIC The composition of a multi-purpose grease has been developed. Mineral oil, lithium soap and a number of additives included in the lubricant prevent the development of oxidation processes and the appearance of rust;
• Motorex chain oil, endowed with specific water-repellent properties, recommended for chain lubrication when working in conditions of high humidity and rainy weather;
• Nanoprotech lubricants and cleaners represent highly effective compositions for the care of all bicycle components. The products of this company provide deep cleaning of components and high-quality lubrication, allowing long-term operation of vehicles without additional treatment.

In addition, the products of this company are used for processing the transport structure before preserving it for storage.

Manufacturers' prices for cleaners in the form of sprays and packages with dispensers, lubricants in the form of aerosols and other options are provided by the company to bicycle owners in their catalogs. Contacting the company will provide convenient payment and delivery of goods to the specified address. The product catalog can be requested on the company website.

How to lubricate a bicycle chain?

The condition of the chain drive must be monitored and lubricated in a timely manner. The recommended vehicle mileage for regular lubrication is no more than 100 km. The bicycle chain and such elements of the sprocket and cassette chassis can be cleaned in two ways:

• manually, which will require washing the removed chain in hot water with a stiff brush (you can use a toothbrush with stiff bristles);
• by mechanical cleaning using special devices, allowing for faster and better cleaning of the unit without dismantling it.

The sequence for manually cleaning the transmission will require a special location, since this procedure will require dismantling the chain, cleaning with water, detergents and draining waste water:

• After cleaning with water, wipe the chain with a dry cloth and allow it to air dry:
• Well-dried parts must be additionally washed in gasoline or kerosene solvent. Using a solvent, the remnants of the previous lubricant are removed;
• Before treating the chain with new lubricant, you need to make sure that there are no solvent residues on its links. This stage cannot be excluded, since in this case, uneven coverage of parts with a protective layer is possible due to its partial destruction by residual gasoline or kerosene;
• the finished unit must be installed on the bicycle, pedal the bicycle at different speeds to evenly distribute the lubricant over all its elements,
• The excess protective layer is wiped off with a dry, clean cloth.
• it is necessary that the bulk of the lubricant gets into the spaces between the chain elements, ensuring their easy friction.

Chain lubrication in winter

It is not uncommon to use a bicycle in winter. In winter, special preparation of equipment is required, since all its open mechanisms work in extreme conditions in winter, which exposes it to rapid wear. This is facilitated by treating roads and sidewalks with sand, salt and chemicals.

Under the influence of precipitation, snow and dirt, a chain under the control of the owner can become rusty in a short mileage. Therefore, cleaning and lubricating the chain is determined by the frequency of travel.

KLS Chain Oil and Weldtite brand lubricants(Teflon lubricant) are well characterized as a winter protective agent for bicycle transmissions. This device can simply be lowered into heated automobile oil. For this purpose, it is good to use Mobil 5w30 engine oil..

Chain cleaning machine: useful device or newfangled uselessness?

The bicycle chain is the most vulnerable part of the transmission to external influences. Regular care requires having a place to work with it. Therefore, devices that simplify the cleaning procedure attract modern cycling enthusiasts. These are special machines.

The bicycle market offers users a fairly large assortment of bicycles:

• C&L machine will not require dismantling the running gear;
• Bike Hand YC-791 also applies to devices for cleaning the chassis of the unit, but of a higher quality;
• Super Bike Tools company presents a reliable device for quickly washing and cleaning a bicycle transmission;
• chain washer from Pedro’s Chain Machine. represents a premium device,

The step-by-step instructions for machines of all categories intended for washing bicycle transmissions are the same; the advantage of these devices is the ability to mount it on a bicycle without dismantling the unit.

The chain is placed and fixed in the machine’s container; the transmission must be turned with pedals, ensuring that its parts pass through a system of special brushes and jaws. If necessary, cleaning can be repeated

All devices are easy to use, affordable, their selection and purchase is an individual decision of the user.

For the successful operation of a vehicle - a bicycle, you must follow simple rules for its operation:

• timely and regular cleaning and lubrication of the structure;
• use of high-quality materials for bicycle care;
• use of lubricants of the required category depending on external conditions.

These simple principles will ensure vehicle mileage over distances of any distance, in any weather and climatic conditions.

Drivetrain maintenance is something you should do most often to your bike if you want it to last long and look great. But there are important tricks here...

Cleanliness is the key to health! This expression is true not only for organisms, but also for bicycle transmissions. Your bike's nightmare is a black (like night) cassette, chain and system, completely covered with "plasticine" made from old grease, dust and poplar fluff... Have you seen this?

In such a favorable environment, “steelbiters” usually appear - evil microbes that quietly devour stars, chains and rollers... :).

Most comparators also measure the wear of the two rollers that will support the ends of the sensor. When measuring with a ruler, it is difficult to maintain the latter with the required accuracy. Also, since the measurement may vary depending on the degree of chain tension, it is better to keep the latter on the bike.

• However, only wear of the rivets causes elongation, which is desirable to evaluate.
• Then it cannot be measured along its entire length.

Wear is not uniform throughout the chain, so it is preferable to take several measurements at different locations.

A well-maintained transmission should look "sparkling."

Transmission care

This is the most important and frequent thing you will do with your bike. Ideally, after every 100 km of travel in dry weather, give the transmission 3-5 minutes of time to clean it, and lubricate it only when you hear the rustle of a dry chain while driving.

Chain lubrication is one of the most important stages of bicycle care. Not only the quality of the transmission, but also the durability of the chain and sprockets on your bicycle directly depends on the oil (lubricant) used. That is why today I will tell you how and with what you need to lubricate the chain, and with what you cannot lubricate it.

The most unfortunate part is that no one agrees with the consequences of this measure: if most indicators estimate that with an elongation of 0.5%, the chain must be replaced by some mechanics at a rate of 0.3%, 0.7%, 0.8% or even 1.5%, and also makes a big difference when it comes to assessing sprocket wear.

How to choose the right lubricant?

There are other methods that are much less accurate, but which allow you to quickly assess wear without the need for a measuring device. As the chain pitch stretches, it no longer matches the ideal of the gears, and the rollers will no longer be at the bottom of the grooves that separate each tooth, but will then be higher in height relative to the teeth of the crowns. They then grind them and shape them into the characteristics of shark wings, admitting that it is urgent to change the chain. In this case, of course, it will also take.

How is bicycle chain lube different from other oils? When a bicycle chain is in motion, its rollers constantly rub against the sprockets, as well as against the rollers of the rear derailleur. Friction of the star chain rollers (external friction) does not lead to “stretching” (increase in length) of the chain. The most intense friction occurs just inside the chain itself. Each link consists of four elements (2 plates, a pin and a roller). There are about 110 such links in the chain.

Should the entire transmission be changed when replacing the chain?

This misalignment also negatively affects transmission efficiency and can, even when wear is severe, cause chain jumps. When replacing gears or trays, it is highly recommended that you also replace the chain. Should you also change sprockets and chainrings when changing the chain? Some mechanics use diagrams such as "when the chain has been changed 4 times, the gables and plates have been changed twice" or "if the chain has been changed 10 times, then change the sprockets three times and after the plates". But others say that with a periodic chain it is necessary to systematically change the sprockets or even the plates, because the chain wears out. No, because this is not enough to replace them: a new chain is much cheaper than a cassette or pedal.

The new chain precisely fits its rollers into the teeth of the new cassette. To understand where chain lubrication is most needed, you need to understand What This is where it wears out. Please note that the pins are tightly seated in the holes of the outer plates, which means there is no friction between them. There is friction between the inner link plates and the pins. It is here that pin production occurs; the internal plates rub grooves in it, which leads to lengthening of the chain (they say: “the chain has stretched”). As a result, the rollers no longer fit into the sprocket teeth so accurately and wear them out. The rear derailleur rollers, usually made of plastic, also suffer. In addition, the clarity of gear shifting decreases, noise, clicks, chain slips and other undesirable phenomena occur. Thus, the most unwanted chain wear does not occur on the outside, but on the inside her.

Likewise, when the sprockets are too boring, the chain can jump. The two phenomena are quite similar: they occur more easily on a small sprocket or small tray, when the force is applied to the pedals uphill during a gear change or when the gear is particularly dirty. There is only one remedy: you need to change the gears as soon as possible. But what you need to know is that when the chain is new, these problems will get worse, so it is possible that these seeds only occur when the chain is renewed.

Additionally, the way teeth are used makes diagnosis particularly difficult. Wear first begins by digging grooves between each tooth. Unfortunately, this erosion is not noticeable at first, and then over time the teeth look like waves, shark fins, but at this point it is too late: the crown is too worn!

The task of any chain lubricant is to penetrate inside and stay there as long as possible: not to dry out, not to be washed out with water, not to splash when the chain moves. But on the outside, lubricant does more harm than good, because... When combined with dust, it turns into an abrasive paste that does its job perfectly.

The chain must be kept dry on the outside and lubricated on the inside.

As a result, after installing a new chain, for competition, sporting or dangerous practice, and if the gables or trays start before now, it may be advisable to change them. If the wear is particularly noticeable, the question no longer arises: replacement is necessary. In other cases, it is best to try the transmission on a difficult course, preferably on an uphill course, and only replace the gables or trays if chain sucking or chain jumping occurs.

To open the chain, you must partially disable the chain link axis using the chain peak. Be careful not to chase it completely so that it can be put back in place later, it needs to be glued to the plate. If the chain has a special quick release link, it can be easily removed without chain drives. Most Dutch bicycle chains are fast link, as are the latest racing bicycle chains.

After you have applied liquid (!) lubricant to each roller, you need to wipe the chain dry with a soft cloth. When riding, some of the lubricant still leaks out and accumulates dust, so the chain, sprockets and rollers need to be cleaned with a medium-length brush with hard bristles. It is best to use special convenient brushes for this, which can clean hard-to-reach places, for example, derailleur rollers and the gap between the stars.

With regular cleaning, your transmission will not only look great, but it will perform great and last much longer.

To close the chain, a chain dropper is used in the same way to replace the chain link axle or replace the quick connector. Length adjustment is explained in the chapter. The chain must be properly tensioned to minimize wear on the entire transmission.

To adjust the tension on a single seat bike, pull the wheel back to tighten the chain before attaching it to the frame legs. The operation is quite delicate as it must be ensured at the same time that the wheel remains centered and keeps the chain under tension while tightening the axle nuts. If the wheel is equipped with a hub brake, the reverse lever must be loosened first. To check the chain tension.

To get a black, run-down transmission back to normal, a brush alone won't be enough, so you'll need a special chain cleaner. It is also called a “digriser” (grease remover, from the word de-greaser). This composition washes away stubborn grease and dirt well. At worst, WD-40 will help, but special cleaners work better.

What is the best way to lubricate a bicycle chain?

If the chain is not tight enough, it may slow down when the chain is pulled laterally, about halfway between the gear and the chain. It is also possible to tension the link at platform level, as if chain wear were being checked on a derailleur-equipped bicycle. If the chain is too tight, the pedals will become fatiguing and this will cause a rather noisy rattling noise. There are other solutions for adjusting chain tension.

How to care for a bicycle chain

When cycling, the chain is always weaker in its lower part than in its upper segment, where it is pulled by the pedals. When there is too much slack, the chain may remain stationary for some time at the bottom of the chain. This phenomenon, more commonly known as chain sucking, usually indicates excessive wear on the tray teeth and can also be caused by excessive friction or a damaged component. especially when it is a certain gear: on recumbent or loaded bikes, when the distance between the crankshaft axles and the rear wheel is too large, or on giant bikes, when the pedal chain is too inclined.

If a lot of sand or dirt gets into the chain (for example, after a serious “dirt-mix”), then the brushes are of little help: the chain should be wash. For this purpose, you can’t think of anything better than a special chain wash. It allows you to carefully wash your bicycle chain even in an apartment.

What to do with the new chain.

A new chain is lubricated when the links are assembled at the factory with a thick but very sticky lubricant. It will last for 300-400 km of driving, after which it will be difficult to put thick lubricant into the rollers.

Before your first ride, you should wipe off the sticky lubricant from the new chain with a soft cloth lightly moistened with solvent. Do not wash away the factory grease from inside!

Then, in order to solve the problem, you need to add a tensioner, for example, one roller. After adjusting the chain or laying the chain using a chain clamp, there may be a tight spot between two chain links. This causes noise, especially when the chain passes through the rear derailleur, and it also causes jumping in high-speed gears.

To remove it, you need to locate this tight spot and then restore the game to the rivet level. To do this, place a drop of oil on the rivet, then hold the chain with your thumbs on either side of the hard point and twist the chain sideways, alternating in both directions as well as in the length direction. See if the difficult point has disappeared, otherwise twist the line.

If you don't wipe off the new chain, the factory sticky lubricant will quickly turn your transmission into black metal. By the way, for some reason sellers don’t talk about this, but this simple procedure will make it easier for you to keep the transmission looking shiny (in every sense). Now let's look at chain lubricants.

What not to lubricate the chain.

One of the most common mistakes is lubricating the chain with WD-40 aerosol and its analogues.

WD-40 is a highly penetrating liquid designed primarily to unblock acidified compounds and displace moisture. Yes, it contains a small amount of oil, but in essence WD-40 is “carbonated kerosene”, but not a lubricant. “Vedashka”, Anyway (Hado) and other analogues are nevertheless good to use for dissolving old lubricant if you want to thoroughly clean “neglected” transmission elements. In this case, you need to generously spray the parts, placing a rag so that the composition does not get on other parts, and wait a little. After this, clean with a brush, wipe dry and lubricate with a special liquid chain lubricant (more about it below).

Motor oil as a chain lubricant is already better, but for now it’s only a “B” rating. As the name suggests, this oil must work in engines, in a closed environment at high temperatures. Its outstanding motor properties are not at all needed in bicycles. And vice versa, motor oil does not “promise” us that it will penetrate the rollers well, not dry out for a long time, not be washed off, and weakly attract dust. The same can be said about oil for sewing machines, as well as transformer, motorcycle, olive, massage and aromatic oils...)) If there are excellent bicycle oils, there is no point in dripping any other oil into the chain and wondering “what will happen.”

Bicycle maintenance often starts with the importance of properly lubricating your bike's chain. A small gesture that will go a long way to extend the life of many of your most important parts. First of all, this cannot be done with any product; It is important to take a lubricant designed for bicycle chains. Several specialized products are available to you; dry, wet, ceramic, etc. which one to choose? When applied, dry lubricant is more liquid. Its less viscous formula produces less dust than other formulas.

This is a comprehensive formula. It is much thicker and therefore holds up better in the weather. When it comes to brand, it's often a matter of taste. Its design is designed to penetrate the chain core and the groove shape makes it easy to apply while avoiding waste. Now that you have chosen your product, when should you use it? To find out, tap your channel, she will tell you. Contrary to popular belief, it is not the outside of the chain that needs to be lubricated, but the inside of the mesh. If you are riding in muddy conditions, in the rain, in an area with a lot of dust, a little checking is required.

Having bought a jar of excellent oil for bicycle chains for 100-200 UAH, you will give it to your grandchildren. Does it make sense to look for an alternative?

How to choose a bicycle chain lubricant.

In a bicycle transmission, only the chain needs to be lubricated, and in no case the sprockets. As mentioned above, the following qualities are important in a bicycle chain lubricant:
Good penetration into rollers.
Stay there for a long time without drying out or leaking.
Attract as little dust as possible.
Resist washing away by rain.

Oil for motorcycle chains, in principle, is also suitable for us, but it should also not splash out from the rollers when the chain rotates at high speed. Therefore, motorcycle oil is more expensive and comes in larger packages. Bicycle chain lubes come in two main types.

Dirt, if left in the chain, can damage the rolling mechanism; dry silt, dust, water, etc. This simple maintenance can save you a lot of trouble on your bike. It's important to make sure your chain isn't too dirty before applying lube; Lubricating in mud won't help you. Once your chain is checked, roll it up by applying the product through the rear sprockets. Make sure you have them everywhere. To do this, take a clean rag in your hand, close it on the chain and roll it up again.

Bicycle chain maintenance and proper lubrication

This step is to remove the excess because remember that the interior needs to be oiled. If you leave too much lube, dust will adhere more easily and your chain will get dirtier much faster. The chain is a fundamental element in cycling. It is through this part of the bike that power is transmitted. It is this mechanism of the bicycle that loses the most watts. You need to maintain your chain optimally.

Lubricant for dry weather conditions (Dry). They are often made using Teflon and are intended for use in dry or not very wet conditions. It has a good dustproof effect due to the large amount of Teflon in the composition. Well protects the chain from short-term moisture. If you get caught in the rain, this coat will protect the chain from corrosion, but once you get home, it's better to clean the transmission, wipe it dry, lubricate the chain and wipe it dry again. According to many mechanics, dry weather lubricant is an all-purpose lubricant and can be recommended as an “everyday oil”.

Maintaining Your Chain: The Golden Rule to Make Your Material Last

At the same time, a clean chain means less power loss, less noise and less wear. Also, if the operation is performed regularly, the lifetime of a full transfer may be multiplied by 3 or it must be known that the lack of maintenance changes the chain. But also a cassette, rollers with a switch and trays. By regularly supporting your channel, it doesn't take much time. This also ensures a much longer lifespan for all of these components. In addition, this allows for increased fluidity when passing gears.

Lubricant for wet and humid conditions (Wet). It is made on the basis of synthetic silicone oils, sometimes with the addition of paraffin. The lubricant protects the chain very well from direct and prolonged exposure to moisture. Due to the high silicone content, it works great in wet and dirty conditions, but is absolutely not suitable for use in dry weather due to the high fat content of the composition. We recommend using this type of lubricant on rainy autumn days, early spring, when participating in marathons in bad weather, and especially in winter.

Degreaser: Useful and reasonable dose

The first thing you need to do to maintain your chain is to properly degrease it. There are special products for bicycle chains. They will not worsen the mechanical properties of the chain and will not preserve the joints of this chain. In addition, there is no need to use too much product. This is a helping hand and frequency of maintenance. Additionally, the product must be able to act within minutes to obtain optimal effectiveness.

Deserves special attention lubricants containing ceramics. According to the manufacturers, they create a ceramic layer of increased strength on the rubbing parts, which lasts their service life.

Also interesting lubricants with thickeners. When the lubricant is applied to the roller, it is very fluid, after which the solvent evaporates from it and it becomes thick. This way it stays inside longer. When lubricating, it is important to wipe off the lubricant from the outside of the chain in a timely manner.

The main types of lubricant packaging are a bottle with a tip and an aerosol can. Despite the seeming primitiveness of the bottle, I still recommend it. With it, I apply lubricant directly to each roller, and it takes up less space in my backpack. An aerosol one can be taken for a workshop where you need to quickly lubricate more than one chain per day. Due to spraying, a lot of lubricant is sprayed “past”, increasing consumption. Also, if you are not used to it, it is easy to stain the rims, spokes, frame, and brake rotors with the spray.

For home use, it is better to choose a regular 50-100 ml bottle of oil with a spout.

Let's summarize.

To summarize, I advise you not to skimp on lubrication and choose special oil for bicycle chains. It takes into account all the nuances of an open bicycle transmission. I recommend choosing a bottle with a spout. If you choose a spray, be sure to place a rag under the stream so that the lubricant does not get where it shouldn’t. Only the chain needs to be lubricated, and only inside the rollers, only when you begin to hear the “dry” rustle of the chain when driving. After lubrication, wipe the chain dry. Clean the chain, sprockets, and rollers with a brush, preventing dirt, sand, and dust from accumulating on them.

Have fun trips!

There are so many types of chain lube available on the bicycle market that it becomes a huge challenge to choose. Each manufacturer insists that its product is better, and the seller tries to sell the most expensive product, talking about its merits. The focus of this article is on bicycle chains, what they are like, how they are used correctly and how they differ from competitors.

Types of lubricating oils

In the markets, bicycle lubricants can be found in several types, each of which stands out from its competitors with its special properties.

1. Aerosol lubricants. Under high pressure, together with air, the lubricant enters the chain in the form of foam and, due to its aggregate state, penetrates into hard-to-reach components. After waiting 10-15 minutes, you need to wipe the remaining substance dry with a dry rag. This bicycle chain lube is not only durable, but also the most effective, because a dry chain will not attract dust. There is only one inconvenience - it takes a lot of time to clean the chain of lubricant residues.
2. Liquid oils. The most popular type of lubricant is sold with a special dispenser for ease of use. Liquid oils cost pennies on the market, but are inferior in effectiveness to all competitors.
3. Two-component lubricants. A volatile solvent containing thick oil is applied to the chain. The lubricant penetrates into hard-to-reach components, the solvent evaporates, and the oil thickens.

Popular Teflon

Bicycle lubricant TF2, which is available in aerosol form and in oil cans, differs from its competitors in the best resistance to dirt and dust, because it contains Teflon. Before application, it is necessary to completely wash the chain from dirt and dry it well. This is the main requirement of the manufacturer, which guarantees long service life. The lubricant is applied evenly to the chain and carefully wiped off from oil leaks. After 10-15 minutes, the chain must be wiped dry with a rag. The Teflon component declared by the manufacturer in the lubricant should create an enveloping film over the entire surface, which will repel dust and dirt. After driving a couple of kilometers after cleaning, you will notice that the bicycle chain lube has again appeared on the surface in the form of droplets. This happens due to heat and pressure in the circuit during operation. Excess oil should be removed with a rag. With such effective lubrication, for 150-200 kilometers on dry terrain, the chains are not afraid of either dust or dirt.

Lubricant from a bicycle component manufacturer

If there are components under the Shimano brand, then there should also be accessories from a famous brand for maintenance and care. Naturally, their quality must match the brand. Shimano WET 100 bicycle lubricant is rightfully considered the best in the professional cycling segment. The lubricant is intended for wet weather, because it contains components with high binding properties. In addition, after lubrication, a water-repellent film is formed on the surface of the chain, which can easily cope not only with moisture, but also with dirt. At a low price, this option contains components that prevent the formation of corrosion and rust, so many athletes, in addition to the chain, lubricate the rotating parts of the bicycle, trying to protect themselves from contamination. Such extensive functionality has only one drawback - fragility. At the end of the cycling race, you need to completely rinse all lubricated components, wipe dry and re-lubricate.

The Russian brand will not give up its position

When wondering which lubricant is best for a bicycle chain, many Russian buyers argue among themselves, defending Japanese, German and American brands. Few people know that the Russian market has its own bicycle chain lubricant. Unlike competitors, only it is capable of working in the conditions that exist in Russia. Nanoprotech bicycle lubricant has no analogues in the world, because it contains components that provide protection from an aggressive environment, which includes all kinds of reagents, including salt, sprinkled on the country's roads in winter. The manufacturer chose to release the product in aerosol form, providing the user with ease of maintenance. There is a lot of information on the cylinder, which at first raises doubts about its veracity, but after a month of active use in the winter, all questions to the manufacturer disappear. Professionals recommend Nanoprotech lubricant to all cyclists who use it all year round.

In a sandstorm

Motorex bicycle chain lube is not an all-season product. She has a slightly different task. Biodegradable oil is designed for use in conditions of maximum dust and low humidity. Sand racing, quarries, mountain slopes - this is her environment. In addition to the chain, the manufacturer recommends using the same lubricant for treating brake cables and switches, as well as moving components. Available in aerosol form and in the form of an oil can. In our market, the Swiss manufacturer Motorex is better known for its products for depreciation service. Low cost and high quality quickly attracted its customers. However, Motorex brand bicycle chain lubricant, for unknown reasons, occupies the most expensive niche and will be unaffordable for many bicycle owners.

As the chain moves along the sprockets, friction is created, which causes rapid wear, so it is necessary to regularly clean and lubricate the chain. Which lubricant to choose is decided by the rider himself, depending on weather conditions and the duration of the trip. It is believed that in dry weather the chain should be lubricated once every 100 km, in rainy and muddy conditions - once every 50 km. But if you hear a creaking or rustling noise, or it’s difficult for you to turn the pedals, then you don’t need to wait, it’s better to lubricate right away!

Types of lubricants

1. For humid environments

This type remains on the chain after lubrication, so it is recommended for riding in wet and muddy conditions, for winter trips, as well as in dry conditions where a lot of water obstacles, such as fords, are expected to be overcome.

• Advantages: does not wash out, so it does not need to be applied constantly (recommended every 50 km).
• Disadvantages: since the lubricant remains on the chain, dust and small particles of dirt easily stick to it, which later act as an abrasive and increase wear on the links. It is also much more difficult to clean your bike from such oil.

2. For dry environments

This type is applied to the chain, but does not remain on its outer surface, so dust and dirt do not stick to the lubricant, making it ideal for dry weather riding.

• Pros: Not as sticky as wet weather products, so it repels dust rather than attracts it. The main thing is to remember that it should be applied several hours before the trip so that it has time to dry.
• Disadvantages: it washes out quickly, so it is recommended to apply it after each exposure to a stream or rain.

3. Wax based

Leaves a protective layer on the bicycle chain after application, suitable only for dry weather conditions.

• Pros: The wax lubricant pushes dirt away from the chain, so it doesn't need to be cleaned as often. This is an ideal solution for those who are “obsessed” with cleanliness, and for those who do not intend to get wet - after all, this lubricant can stay on the chain for several months, and after the expiration date it flakes off.
• Disadvantages: not effective in wet and dirty conditions, so it must be applied more often than oil. Also, due to the main component - wax - it does not penetrate into the links as well as oil lubricants.

The first and most important tip is to not lubricate the chain with anything that is not intended for use on a bicycle. This includes sunflower oil, used machine oil and other cheap substitutes for normal bicycle lubricant. Even WD-40 is not intended to lubricate the chain, but only to clean it!

If possible, purchase biodegradable lubricants - this way you will help nature quickly deal with chemicals washed onto the ground.

A lubricant based on PTFE, better known as Teflon, will help make pedaling much easier.
No matter what type of lubricant you choose, always apply it to a clean chain, otherwise dirt will get into the internal parts of the links along with the oil, which will speed up the wear process.

How to apply lube to a chain?

There are two application methods: aerosol and drip. Aerosol is convenient, but drip is correct. To understand this, you need to figure out where exactly the chain needs to be lubricated:

• where the rivets rub against the inner plates (at the moment the links bend relative to each other);
• where the inner and outer plates rub against each other;
• inside the roller so that it can easily rotate around its axis.

It turns out that lubricant should be applied to the internal parts of the chain, and not to the external ones. The drip method involves a long and slightly tedious process of dripping oil onto each link joint, and the aerosol can be sprayed in a couple of seconds.

But! When using aerosols, those parts of the bicycle that do not need to reduce friction at all - brake discs, rims, brake pads - can get under the jet. This is fraught not only with excess dirt and dust sticking to the bike, but also with serious injuries when the brakes fail.

A kind of compromise between drip and aerosol lubricants is a two-component one - it is essentially a thick oil diluted in a solvent. It is applied quickly enough and easily penetrates inside the links, leaving a thick oil layer after the solvent evaporates.

How to quickly and effectively clean and lubricate a chain, see here:

A famous cyclist once said that just a few drops of oil can dramatically increase your pedaling efficiency. To his words, it only remains to add that “drops of oil” should be selected in accordance with the conditions and distance of the trip, as well as depending on the speed of their application.