In modern realities, a trunk becomes one of the pretty necessary things for a motorcyclist. In particular, this can be noted among lovers of long trips and travels. It should be noted that novice motorcyclists often arise the question of how to make a boot for a motorcycle.
The trunk themselves can be divided into 2 types, these are structures for fastening the CFR, and individual for direct consolidation of the cargo. In modern times the first option is somewhat practical and more popular.
But we consider both variations.
If you pay attention, the components market elementary elements are quite expensive. An ordinary trunk, which can be done with your own hands, with what is pretty fast, will cost the market in the amount of more than 10 thousand rubles. Think if you need to buy a boot on a motorcycle, or better to do it yourself.
Trunk for fastening the coofers
This design is used in order to transport small cargo. It is quite possible to make it from several metal tubes or twigs. If you want a more designer solution, you can perform from a metal sheet, which will be quite well complemented by the bike style. At the same time, if the manufacturer is carried out from twigs or pipes, then the creation of additional parts will be required, since it is necessary to create a fully flat plane to which the boxes will be hung.
In order not to provide for the most additional components, it is best to fully produce a part of a solid sheet. Or you can perform the upper part to perform solid, and fastening using twigs or tubes.
The DVR is useful not only in cars. How to choose it tell in this article. If you have both a car in which there is also not enough space for cargo, we recommend seeing how to make an expedition trunk -.
This design is designed strictly for fastening the coffer in the top. At the same time, for the manufacture it is not desirable to use a metal with a thickness of less than 3-4 millimeters, this causes sufficient rigidity of the trunk itself, and will also improve the appearance in general. For a larger design solution, you can apply engraving or cut the "windows" on the side parts. It is possible to do it yourself yourself with a drill, or a grinder.
If you want something more original, you can contact specialized workshops, in which there are equipment for laser cutting and engraving. So consider the full production process:
First you need to cut the cardboard layout. The sheet is adjusted to the cofter and in the contour of its bottom, we mark the boundaries of the trunk cover. In some cases, the coffer already has its own platform for fastening, in this situation it is necessary to perform the top of the trunk strictly under the playground itself.
Also, when measuring, we provide protrusions in width, because you need to fix the entire design, for this edge it will be necessary to bend.
Next, after measuring, making the site layout, and its immediate workpiece, it is necessary to prepare fasteners. It is advisable to provide elements for fixing on the frame. At the same time, there is no clear instruction for them, it is necessary to be guided by a strict form of the motorcycle frame itself. But it should be noted that the best variation will be located at the edges of the site flowing to the frame of fasteners.
After that, it remains to be painted, and then fix directly the coofer itself. Further, except the top, also side cofrs are planned, then additional fasteners should be provided. You can also make them from tubes or rods, fixing to the top of the whole structure.
In some cases, the factory assembly of the boxers has connecting belts in themselves, and ultimately the side frames are needed strictly to support, in order to avoid friction about the wheel.
Cargo shipping trunk
The next type is a separate trunk for the carriage of goods. This design appeared in Soviet times. At that time it was made for the most part of steel rods. Consider its features and variations of the manufacture of such a trunk with their own hands.
Of course, we will take a little from old times, and on the example of the manufacture, consider the trunk for more modern motorcycles, because they currently prevail in the world of motorcycles. Such an example will be the production of design only from metal tubes.
First you need pipe bender. In the case of its absence, it is necessary to use steel rods to obtain the desired beautiful bending. Fully bending procedure is carried out using a burner. The metal element is heated, and slowly, carefully bends.
Just think that buying a boot for a motorcycle of this type will cost approximately $ 150-200. But we turn directly to the process itself:
Initially prepare the site. To do this, it is necessary to cut out of the rods, then cut the pieces into the necessary form.
Next, the lateral parts of the trunk are prepared in the same way and welded to the overall design.Metal jumpers are used for attachment. At the same time, their size depends only on the motorcycle model, well, and more accurately from the frame features.
On the frame itself, in the places of the alleged attachment, paint is pretty. Further, measurements and the trunk welding grabbing the jumpers directly to the frame. IN Depending on the ears welded to the frame, it is measured, and the location of the "response" ears is marked.
At the base, all manufacturing is carried out individually depending on the characteristics of the motorcycle itself, therefore it is necessary to consider more details on the example of any of the models.
Also, it should be noted that when planning the transportation of highly heavy loads it is necessary to provide for additional reference frames, taking them to the frame, it is desirable closer to the central part, in this case the weight of the engine will compensate for the weight of the cargo. It can be made of metal rods. Drills holes at the ends, after fixing the bolts on the base of the frame, also for reliability you can additionally grab welding.
After mounting, the last steps will be stripping, degreasing and actually painting or varnishing, depending on personal preferences.
Thus, two variations of the creation of a trunk for a motorcycle were disassembled, with their own hands, which in turn will mostly help beginner fans of motorcycles. And maybe it becomes a good crib for experienced drivers who could only only buy a bootter for a motorcycle, but did not know how to make it himself.
Own alteration of working shoes in motobot, and now the story about iron.
Not always during production at hand was the camera, so part of the pictures is made on a lousy phone.
So, several photographs of the process and a brief description.
Trunk.
For a start, a simplified sketch in the CorelDraw of the motorcycle itself with the trunk. View from above. 
So it became clear what I want.
It remains to find materials. He went to the metal market, chose the square of the square section from the width of the wall of 30mm. For aesthetics, it was possible and burned, but this was not found. However, closing ahead, I will say that the trunk turned out to be somewhat cumbersome, but very durable. But if aesthetics is more important for you, it is better to choose a profile of a 25mm wide - loss of strength will be insignificant, I think.
Well, began to crush. Corner grinding (she "Bulgarian", she is "turbine") to help.
The roundings did as follows: he made several propilov, while trying not to damage one of the four faces of the profile. The number of propilov calculated at random, based on the bend angle and the width of the propyl itself. That is why it processed a little and was cut on one of the parties. Well, nothing, the welding will fix everything.
After that, the gas burner (ordinary Chinese, which is put on the canister for a portable stove) was heated by a hot spot, the remaining unspexed side and a light move bent the milk metal.
It turned out something like this: 
The following bending is harder. Because it was necessary to accurately set the angle of the bevel. I will not say that the result made me, but in general it turned out what it was necessary. True, the next time I would change this angle for several degrees. 
Well, further - the brewing of the gaps received during the suggestion and the welding of the cross. Read easily, in fact there are difficulties. How delicate would not be an inverter, how thin (2mm) electrodes were not used, the lives of the metal could not be avoided. And no wonder, because by that time I just studied at the welder's courses (exactly the month was departed, and, on the theory), and before that he held this Azza device in his hands just a couple of times! But the head - it is necessary that under the welding mask there is also a couple of related neurons, and therefore came up with such a way out: cut the lining from sheet metal and closed their own shoals.
In the picture below, I showed it schematically. 
Figures 1 and 2 just show these overlays. Figure 3 shows the edge of the trunk with the mount. There I saw a piece of profile, but the thickness of the remaining wall (about 1,5mm) did not suit me and I welded another piece of the metal plate (shown in a brighter color) 4-5mm thick. After that, drilled a hole in this disgrace. The same did the same on the other hand.
Then I bought 4 bolts on 8mm and welded them from below in such a way that they could be clinging the luggage grid or the rope. The idea itself was spied on my Chinese Motion, and indeed, probably, there are such fixes on all factory trunkings.
It seems to be all, but then I raged many times, twisted, sharpened; Grinding the curves of welding seams ... After that, painted, bypassing the wrapper process, which then even somehow did not think - the complete lack of experience affected.
It turned out not perfectly, but the trunk performs its role and almost does not affect the speed :-)
On the motorcycle, the product looks like this: 
As you can see, the rear turn signals placed on the removal, to be located partially under the trunk, and not on the sides of it. This is done so that these most turn signals do not break up, which has previously happened repeatedly even with a simple rolling out of the motorcycle from the garage.
So, the time is coming (from the date of purchase soon 2 years), an old Kava finishes the stage of metamorphosis and becomes less like a similar on that I met at Motorka.
Shl. I was going to tell me in the same post and arcs, but I realized that letters turned out a lot, and therefore it would be better to prepare a separate post. If, of course, it will be interesting to someone.
Zyy. Post about arcs.
Even before buying your Maxiscover Honda Silver Wing 600cc, my wife and I have already planned future travel. Well, what "dalnyak" without luggage, which is quite problematic sometimes conspicuous on a motorcycle? No ready version of the side frame or curvatures is not able to fit the amount of luggage as homemade.
I confess, until this point I have already tried to make a side frame on my previous Maxiscuter - Honda Forza 250cc. As a result, he was too fun and did not have time to fulfill his destination, since the motorcycle was sold and bought Silver Wing. Based on the previous experience, I began to design a new trunk, which would have a high strength, but did not have too much weight. What came of it, I will describe further.
First of all, it is necessary to think good, where the places of fastening of our trunk will be. Excellent if the motorcycle from the plant has such a design that allows you to easily fasten the trunk on the frame. Sometimes it is worth resorting to the study of the factory options for the trunk, which are presented on the market. For example, GIVI specializes in the release of such motorcycle supplements. What I did: I found a photo of my motorcycle with the installed side frames in the search engine, then adapts them under your trunk, a little frozen them.
After that, you can start making the ears of the attachment. At the top points, my future trunk will be attached to the standard places on which the platform for the coffer by the manufacturer is installed. This greatly simplifies work. As a material from which the mounts will be made are steel strip, the thickness of which is 4 mm.
To make fasteners the correct shape, the band must be placed and exacerbated in the form repeating pad. Having tees and hammer, it is not difficult to do it. That's what I did: 
Now you can do the manufacture of the trunk themselves. As a material, I chose a rod of a square section of 10mm. If you wish, you can search the pipe of the square section, but there will be problems with its bending. Therefore, it is better to stop on the "square" or Prude, which I did. I made a frame with small shelves, whose main task is to support bags. Here's what they looked:
As you can see, the design of the trunk, I enhanced by brakes on the sides and added transverse rods to make the bag not savage and did not fall out.
Next, you can welcome the trunk to the fasteners themselves. It is best to do this at the place to guess as much as possible with the location of the "ears" on the frame. To do this, it is necessary to maximize the motorcycle from the effects of the temperature and voltage of the welding machine. I completely removed the battery, and the plastic looked into the wet rags, cardboard and old linoleum. That's what it looked:
Immediately I clarify: it is enough on the motorcycle only to grab the frame for several points, it is necessary to recruit it only in the removed form.
So that our frames do not touch the plastic of the motorcycle were tough and fixed, they must be fixed at the lower points. I made a jum between them, which, in turn, is fixed on the motorcycle frame: 
To the framework itself, I also welded the brackets of the required length, allowing to fasten the trunk at the bottom:
And, of course, I painted them. This is what happened in the end:
And here is my trunk in the process of long-distance travel:
At the moment, we have already traveled more than 25,000 km with this trunk. In 2015, 11,000 km journey into Altai. In 2016 - 14,000 km on Baikal. He has repeatedly cut off with his strength, when the motorcycle fell on his side, resting on him. Just thanks to him, he remained intangible every time. I attach a video in which the process of operation of my wonder trunk is also visible.
Attached video:
In general, the motorcyflaps are made in different ways from a different material. My customer wanted them to be from clean skin without an inner skeleton. Therefore, a black shore was selected 3.2 mm. In the process, the thought flashed that it was not bad to make a shore chaprak - he was tougher. But I decided to highlight the boxes in advance, so I didn't absorb moisture, because I took Shore. After the fiction, the rigidity will be at the proper level.
This is how my sketch looks like. This, of course, takes place, but it suits me - informatively and do not care about spilled coffee.
Since the idea of \u200b\u200bthe tutorial visited me after the start of work on the skirts - the whole process of patterns, clippings and painting, I safely professional profound. In principle, everything is elementary, everyone knows how to cut and cut fabrics or some more lambood, so it did not bother over this stage. P.S. All patterns made from a prefine or very hard cardboard, so everything was smooth.
So, we have almost all patterns except the valve that will be made from the other skin, because stupidly did not have enough of the desired black shore. On the valves, I put the same Shore, only red-colored, on which there will be a drawing in the form of a crow. To smoothly sew a CAFR, which is essentially a big bag, you need to punch holes in advance under the seam. I strongly recommend getting a canvas and cut them a millimeter groove under the thread - so it never flows in life and looks like a suture much more spectacular and even more. In general, the markup is made by a special handle on the skin and erases later, but I don't have it, because it's hard to be solid, but he is not erased. In short: I place the seam, I cut the groove.
Next on the back of the pattern I put the labels in order not to confuse what to sew it. It's time to pierce holes under the seam. Here the main principle - holes should be the same amount and symmetrical location on the patterns sewed to each other. If you pierce on Avos - at the end of the seam, the head will come out in the form of unnecessary holes, which do not hide, and the explicit asymmetry of the stitched bag. In the first coffee box, I got a head in mind the excess hole, which I almost broke through inattention. If it struck - the assimmetry would come out in the form of a guy centimeter - the eyes rushed immediately, so be careful. Chinese masters generally glue the surface at the moment and only then sew.
I start sewing the bottom of the box to its front wall. For a good it would be worth it to immediately cut the edges and rounded, but I do not have the right tool, therefore I just do a smooth cut and paint it. That is how it is in any way, because it is still to mount the buckles, and in the case of the jacket to redo it easier and faster. All the seams are manual with two needles one towards another. Thread synthetic, wicker + midway, 1mm in diameter. Important: Before the insertion of the front wall, the box must be installed and pierced all the seams and holes, as well as cut all the necessary grooves for bends on a piece of leather, which will be the bottom (and immediately bend in the right places in the right places with a chicken one). Because then it will be hemorrhoids rare. In the end, we have such a fig. Immediately after the firmware, we go to the bathroom, we wat a member (the rear side of the skin) with a water and accrane climb the hammer, as shown in the photo. As a result, we have clear angles of 90 degrees in the seam. And the eye pleases and exclude scuffs and other zaleps, as in the photo of the old box below, whose seams are not bent (torn the thread and blooms seam, everything will be broken.).
Next, I make exactly the same workpiece under the second CAFR. In a good way, it would be necessary to immediately enjoy the outer wall until the rear is sewn, in order not to suffer especially. Probably, I'll do it. Wax in this case is necessary, while the skin does not stop absorbing it. It is for giving gesture and waterproof skin, because the shore is a very soft grade and the form holds badly. The process of fracturing and the composition would be preferred in the secret, do not blame me. Who needs it - he will google. By the way, I will be offered by Mebra, because the face is painted in this case.
While hands with calls are resting from sewing, take the back of the walls of the boxes and with the help of old hoses align and customize the attachments under the motorcycle of the owner, at the same time immediately navel laces for their silica to the frame. Laces take from the same skin as the boxes and in a couple of minutes we cut the cords. Punch holes in the right places for future lacing.
In parallel, two previous items begin to slowly fasten the buckles and cut straps. Nothing difficult. And immediately fixes them on the CFR. Muffd up in this case, the buckles on a riveting called the holnitenen. This little thing is brutally saved time and strength, it looks spectacular, but loves to slip off the anvil and it turns out a deposition as in the photo. Treatment - either to pass out this infection, trying not to break the skin, or to come down with a hammer and forget. Minus - it looks non-style. Leaves Crop the surplus from the bottom and you can sew the back wall. P.S.: Before the sewn of the back wall on it it is necessary to break holes under fastening to the motorcycle frame. I forgot to do it - so I will suffer already with a sewn wall.
She sewed the back wall, slept the hammer of the bend (generously watering the outside the groove and from the inside the box the place of folding with water so that the skin was plastic and stretched) so that everything is smooth and beautiful. While the first coofer dries flashing the second. War of the bottom and the rear wall of the boxes.
Now it's time to carve out and plant the inner valve on the buttons on the riveting, so that the contents through the gaps between the main valve and the walls of the coffer are out of the coffer.
I expect the valves on both boxes, stitching the seams - decorative (I immediately flashing) and for attaching to the cofiver. I nano drawing by the deceit. Crash first drawing, then everything else neatly. It remains to enjoy and sew to the cofiver.
Bags for a motorcycle are made of various materials: metal, plastic, leather or plywood. The choice depends on personal preferences and skills. If you decide to make cofments for a motorcycle with your own hands, you can be confident in their exclusivity. And if with properly diligence and fantasy to approach their decoration, they will become not only convenient triggers for the carriage of various items, but also a uniquely decoration of the bike.
Homemade Metal Kanistra
A simple way to make side dishs for a motorcycle do it yourself - it is to use two metal canisters. The manufacturing process is quite simple:
- We purchase two identical metal canisters with a capacity of 20 liters (the average price of 1300 ÷ 1500 rubles per piece).
- On the canisters with a marker we apply the cut line (the lower part will serve as a container for things, the upper - lid).
- Bulgarian with a disc on metal gently cut both canisters in accordance with the applied markup.
- The edges of the cut is cleaned with sandpaper and cover anti-corrosion paint.
- On both parts install the seal (for example, the seal is suitable from the lid of the VAZ 2101 ÷ 2107, which can be purchased at any auto parts store for 250 ÷ 300 rubles).
- Tightly press both parts to each other and place the holes for fastening the loops (conventional furniture loops) and latches.
- Drills the holes on the applied markup, secure loop and latch with rivets or bolts.
Durable metal homemade cofrs are ready. Now you need to make fasteners. It depends on the individual features of the motorcycle. For this purpose, you can use clamps or other suitable hardware.
Decoration depends on the individual preferences of the biker:
- If you choose bright color canisters, then they themselves will decorate your bike.
- If you wish, you can paint the canisters in the color of the motorcycle.
- If you carefully cut the handles, then you can cover the canisters by self-adhesive film or enclose artificial skin.
On a note! For the manufacture of side wrappings on the moped, canisters with a capacity of 5 or 10 liters are suitable.
Metal boxes from fishermen boxes
The boxes are very easy to make from two fishing boxes. Fixer work is minimal, as the loops and the latch are already installed on the lid of the box. It is only necessary to make suitable fastenings and decorate (for example, plane a thin foam rubber, after which it is covered with dermal). So, a winter aluminum box with dimensions of 31 x 20 x 30 cm (with a volume of 18 liters, weighing 1.4 kg) costs only 980 ÷ 1100 rubles. You can not doubt the strength of this design due to the fact that the box is designed to sit on it an adult man in full winter equipment.
Plastic Kanistra
The process of manufacturing wrappings from plastic canisters is largely similar to the manufacture of lateral trudgers from metal containers. The difference lies only that plastic boxes have insufficient rigidity, therefore, additional metal elements (strips and sheets) will have to be installed for their manufacturer, reinforcement. The main disadvantages of this method include large labor costs and the amount of time that will be needed for the manufacture of plastic trunk for a motorcycle (compared to metal analogs). And although plastic canisters are much cheaper than metal, additional costs for metal and hardware can reduce cash savings "No".
Homemade leather cofgrounds
The skin was and remains the most favorite material for various biker accessories. Tailoring of the boxes from this material can be carried out independently.
Required tools and materials:
- roulette, metal ruler, marker, narrow construction knife, needle with thick ear, canvas;
- a piece of leather (shore-saddled, thickness of 3 ÷ 4 mm), thick synthetic threads, fittings (buckles, fasteners, rivets and so on).
How to make leather boxes:
- From dense cardboard, we cut the patterns of all parts of the future coffer (side, bottom, closing valve, and so on) taking into account the allowance for the seams (0.7 ÷ 0.9 mm).
- We decompose the finished patterns on the back of the skin and supply the marker.
- Cut the blank using a building knife.
- With the help of canvas and wooden inquiries, we make holes in places of fastening individual parts.
- We sew all parts with a thick needle and kapron thread.
- Corners strengthen special rivets (holnitenes).
- Breeping all the necessary accessories (buckles, frames - holders and decor elements). Result: We sewed durable and durable boxes.
For the manufacture of motorcycles on the thigh, quite a skin with a thickness of 1.0 ÷ 1.5 mm.
The advantages of such a material as moisture-resistant plywood, (in the manufacture of curves) belong:
- simplicity of treatment with the use of electric jigsaw or circular saw;
- availability and low price;
- easy to connect separate parts to each other using glue, self-tapping screws, wooden bars and metal corners.
The disadvantage of such a material is the impossibility of making from plywood of motorcycle side trunk with complex curved geometric shapes. The same box is attached similarly to metal or plastic products.
In custody
We described only some types of hardware for motorcycle, which can be made independently. In addition, make the CFR for a motorcycle can be made of fiberglass, impregnated with epoxy resin. Having a welding machine, it is not difficult to make metal boxes of the most diverse shape and capacity. The final choice of material depends on your skills, and the shape and dimensions are from personal preferences.
