Often on my blog (and on the channel), there are a lot of questions about the catalyst, and some readers still have many misconceptions in their heads. One of them (for example) is that if you remove this part of the muffler, then it is VERY bad for the car, it will literally stand up and refuse to drive! I decided to answer all the questions at once, so today we will say: - is it worth deleting it or not (what are the pros and cons of such manipulation), what will be the consumption after cutting, whether it is necessary to flash the ECU (and what is the threat), and a few words about "snag". In general, it will be interesting, as usual the video version at the end ...
At the very beginning, I would like to say - that this unit IS NOT SOMETHING IMPORTANT for a car, but "a heap of stones" will fly at me now, they say - what are you talking about, but what about ECOLOGY? But if we discard all the exclamations of "green", then a car without a catalyst will work BETTER, CONSUMPTION will be lower, well, POWER will grow a little.
What is a catalyst for?
BUT in order for your car to drive normally, you need to "flash" under a reduced ecological class (usually EURO2) or put a snag. Otherwise, the program in the ECU will not allow you to drive normally.
Firmware for EURO2 and snag - what does it mean?
As I wrote above - the second oxygen sensor (lower lambda) monitors harmful emissions. Their number is now strictly regulated by European standards, which are called "EURO", I will not talk about EURO "0-1" now, we are interested in the second generation.
So what is EURO2 ... It was introduced a long time ago, namely in 1996. At that time, the cars received an innovative system, namely a catalyst. As we all know, over time it can get clogged, and the fuel then was not the same as it is now, there was a lot of sulfur in it, which contributed to the clogging of honeycombs much faster, and as you and I know, the car began to choke itself. Then the engineers installed an oxygen sensor, it was only one, and it was needed to capture CO2 in a chamber in front of the catalytic converter.
If the CO2 level increased, this indirectly indicated that the catalyst was clogged (that is, the effect of back pressure is manifested), the sensor sent this information to the ECU and the ignition was corrected, namely, a decrease in the supply of the fuel mixture. Thus, the power dropped a lot, the car did not run and the owner "willy-nilly" had to go to the service station and change this spare part.
BUT as we all know the price tag, to put it mildly - HIGH, so many owners simply removed these cells and the POWER WAS RESTORED!
But how? YES, everything is simple, the level of CO2 in the chamber in front of the neutralizer dropped much, the oxygen sensor recorded it (that everything was in order) and the car was going briskly and not forcedly. It suited everyone, BUT ONLY NOT ECOLOGISTS! Therefore, they introduced the EURO3 standard (now the EURO5 standard already exists). What has changed, but there is simply a second oxygen sensor (lower lambda) behind the catalyst. The principle of work here is as follows - the first lambda (before the filter) fixes the level of harmful substances, the second (after it) should fix the level much lower, because the harmful substances have decomposed.
If you remove catalyst honeycombs , then both sensors will record the same values (the "second" feeds information to the ECU), thus - CHECK ENGINE will light up, the power will drop, the car will not drive. Now this does not solve the problem.
What is done by the firmware under EURO2? The firmware in the ECU is changed, instead of the EURO3.4 standards, the EURO2 standards are set. The essence of all these actions is trivial - we just turn off the second lower lambda (only one upper lambda remains), the car starts to drive as expected, without underestimating the power.
But such interference with the firmware is not very good. The thing is that they are produced not by the manufacturers themselves, but by "craftsmen", okay, that the second "lambda" is simply turned off, that is, just an adjustment of the readings. Or maybe this programmer wants to put some incomprehensible algorithms in the ECU, the motor will definitely not benefit from this. You have to be very careful here.
Therefore, we found a second way out, and in my opinion, it is more correct - the installation of a snag. What is snag - in fact, it is a "spacer" in front of the second oxygen sensor, it kind of pushes it to a greater distance from the exhaust gases, it fixes more oxygen and starts to work normally.
Now there are several options for trickery:
- Empty ... It's just a tube with a very thin hole at the end (the part that is screwed into the muffler), on the other side the oxygen sensor is screwed in. A limited amount of harmful substances from the exhaust passes through it, there is no excess and therefore the CHECK does not burn.
- With mini catalyst inside ... That is, right in the "spacer" there are, as it were, mini honeycombs, which also clean the exhaust just to fix the normal values.
- Corner ... These are both of the views described above, only they are made at an angle of 90 degrees, they are needed for difficult places.
The advantages of the blende are that there is no need to go into the ECU and change the standard firmware, as well as the price (knocked out the honeycomb, clocked the blende and that's it, you can keep within 3000 - 5000 rubles).
Fuel consumption
After you have removed this filter, many are tormented by the question of fuel consumption - will it grow or not? Of course - he will fall (so I think), whoever says what. Let's think logically - if there is this filter element, it is an obstacle that must be overcome by the exhaust gases, and accordingly the engine will spend more effort to push them through (the flow rate increases slightly). If this element is NOT there, then the "development" will be much easier - fuel is saved.
Of course, one should not expect any global savings, usually it is about 3% (maximum), but it is worth noting that the consumption will drop slightly.
Pros and cons of removal
I have prepared a small sign with the pros and cons of what will happen if you remove the catalyst
| MINUSES | PROS |
| Increase in harmful substances in the exhaust, decrease in the environmental component | There is no need to buy a new catalyst, because it is very expensive. |
| Exhaust smell, becomes much more toxic, sometimes this exhaust enters the car (smells unpleasant) | Small increase in power (really small in the level of error, about 3%) |
| Exhaust sound. After knocking out the honeycomb of the catalyst, it is advisable to install a flame arrester, otherwise there will be a ringing sound from an empty "can" (especially at high speeds) | Can be installed instead of an empty can, plus more power (which is said out of the blue) |
| You need to install either a snag or a new firmware for EURO2 | Reduced fuel consumption (also about 3%) |
| Increasing the resource of the power unit, because ceramic dust can get into the combustion chambers and wear it out prematurely |
As you can see, there are a little more advantages, the most significant is the price of all this alteration (it will cost several times to delete, if not dozens of times - cheaper).
Now the video version, we are watching.
In conclusion, I would like to say to remove the catalyst - IT IS AT ALL WRONG from the ECOLOGY point of view. After all, our planet is already polluted, and thus you make it even dirtier!
I finish here, I think this material will help you make the right choice. Sincerely your AUTOBLOGGER.
The catalyst is an element of the exhaust system, which is designed to clean the exhaust gases from harmful oxides. Installed on all vehicles with environmental requirements of Euro-3 and higher. Together with it, the oxygen sensor also participates in the work. But we will talk about it a little later. In the meantime, let's look at why the catalyst is removed and what it gives us.
Are we removing the catalyst or restoring it?
The catalyst is a consumable item and cannot be restored. The only way out of the situation is to delete it. Or replacement with a ready-made flame arrester.
How is the catalyst removed?
Consider this procedure in the conditions of the service station. The operation includes several stages. First, the car is driven onto a lift. Next, the specialist finds the location of the catalyst (located immediately behind the intake pipe) and begins to dismantle it. Depending on the design, the element is fastened with three or four bolts. The main problem is that they can get stuck. In advanced cases, the removal procedure is not complete without the use of a grinder. So, they cut out a part of the pipe along with the fasteners and begin to gut the insides of the catalyst. Then the hole made is welded with argon welding and a part of the pipe with fasteners is cut off. A new one is welded in their place. The car goes down from the lift and the specialist flashes the electronic control unit by connecting with a laptop through the diagnostic connector. On older models, it is possible to install a mechanical trick. This allows the motor to stabilize and return its performance to factory defaults.
Deception after catalyst removal: why is it installed?
Removing the catalyst is only half the job. After this operation, you need to "muffle" the oxygen sensor. The latter is installed at the inlet and outlet of the catalyst. It is he who determines the remaining oxygen in the gases and transmits the signal to the ECU. The quality of mixture formation depends on the serviceability of the lambda probe. By default, the lambda value is one.
Deceiving the lambda when removing the catalyst is necessary, otherwise the sensor will send incorrect data. Accordingly, the engine will prepare the wrong mixture.
What does this lead to? The unit will "lean" the mixture in all modes of its operation. So he tries to restore the temperature in an imaginary catalyst (and as you know, this filter works only at temperatures above 300 degrees). The engine speed will "float" (especially at idle speed), and traction will disappear at the top. The car stops accelerating normally, fuel consumption increases by 1.5-2 liters.
Do you need a snag after removing the catalyst?
Some people mistakenly think that after removing the catalyst, a lambda probe blende is not needed. But this is possible only in the case of a complete flashing of the ECU. If you do not take any of the measures, problems will occur in the first minutes of operation.
About mechanical snag
It is a bronze spacer containing a ceramic filler with a catalytic layer. Gases passing through this snag are oxidized by oxygen. The electronics analyzes the signal and concludes that the catalyst is operating normally (although in fact it is cut out). Mechanical snag is installed in front of the catalyst, in the area of the exhaust manifold. The cost of a part is no more than a kilogram of sausage, excluding installation.
Emulators
There are also electronic tricks. They are more technologically advanced and allow not only to hide errors, but also to ensure the correct operation of the ICE control system. The emulator includes a single-chip microprocessor. The latter analyzes the composition of the exhaust and generates an output signal that does not differ from the second (factory) lambda probe. But the cost of electronic tricks is already on the order of a one-time trip to the supermarket, when not only sausage is bought, but also related products.
Problems with the motor
After 100-150 thousand kilometers, many drivers are faced with increased fuel consumption, a drop in engine power and a deterioration in dynamic performance. Along with this, the dashboard will be "decorated" with all sorts of errors. If the catalyst has not been replaced or removed before, the problem should be looked for in it. There are thin ceramic honeycombs inside the filter, which melt and thus prevent the normal passage of gases. As a result, the blowing of the cylinders worsens, and the fuel consumption increases (by an average of 10-15 percent).
Note that these problems may occur earlier. Why do honeycombs melt? The reason is the increased oil consumption. If it is thrown into the combustion chamber, the exhaust will be saturated with soot. It clogs up at the catalyst inlet. Due to the elevated temperatures, the soot begins to smolder, causing the honeycomb to melt. If everything is in order with the oil consumption (no more than one liter leaves for 10 thousand kilometers), the honeycombs can become clogged due to low-quality fuel.
What are the benefits of this?
The main plus is that gases from the cylinders will freely escape to the outside. The rest of the system elements (resonator, manifold, muffler) have a hollow tube. Even at high oil consumption, soot will freely escape into the atmosphere. The service life of the flame arrester is over 10 years. It does not require maintenance. The motor power will return to factory settings. As for fuel consumption, this is a separate issue.
Why is a flame arrester better?
We have previously described the procedure for removing the catalyst. This is the most economical work option. But the old catalyst can only be gutted if it is completely intact. If the element starts to rust, it is better to replace it with a new flame arrester. Yes, the catalyst has multiple walls. But whether it will last for a long time and whether the wall will not rust ahead of time, no one can guarantee.
Financial question
Removal of the catalyst is a compulsory measure for Russian motorists. This item is a "consumable". But if any other filters have a cheap filling (made of thick paper), then an expensive ceramic core is used here. The catalyst also uses platinum sputtering. Some manufacturers use palladium. These expensive metals are designed to speed up catalytic reactions.
What is all this for? Due to the presence of precious metals, the cost of this filter increases significantly. And this is without taking into account the installation, under the order. You have to wait at least two weeks.
This is the main reason why motorists are removing rather than replacing the catalyst with a new one.
Catalyst: removal, snag - conclusion
So, we found out why and how the catalyst is removed. An important detail in the course of work is the installation of a lambda probe blende. Without it, the motor will operate in emergency mode. Alternatively, it is possible to flash the control unit, but this service is more expensive.
The catalytic converter in the exhaust system is designed for afterburning and additional oxidation of harmful components of exhaust gases (og) to harmless CO2 and H2O. Thus, we save the environment at least a little. You need to understand that a catalyst (and, scientifically, a catalytic converter) is needed only in order to clean the exhaust of a car from harmful emissions and make them less harmful. Its service life, according to my observations, is at least 250,000 km, provided that the injection system works in normal mode (without errors), and the mechanical part of the internal combustion engine is in good order. Some individuals survived even after 400,000 km, but these are rather exceptions, because during this time, the entire exhaust system decomposes. There is a delusion that cannot be eradicated.
At the very beginning, I would like to say - that this unit IS NOT SOMETHING IMPORTANT for a car, but "a heap of stones" will fly at me now, they say - what are you talking about, but what about ECOLOGY? But if we discard all the exclamations of "green", then a car without a catalyst will work BETTER, CONSUMPTION will be lower, well, POWER will grow a little.
It is because of this that it is worth putting it mildly - not a little, from 30 to 150,000 rubles, it all depends on the class of the car and its volume.
In order for the gases to turn from toxic to less harmful, the temperature of the catalyst must be about 750 degrees Celsius, otherwise the chemical reaction will not occur. The gases that leave the car engine have a temperature of about 500 - 550 degrees Celsius (which is not enough), when they pass through the catalyst, a chemical reaction takes place with the release of heat, thus, heating is just what is needed (750 - 900 degrees). This "fighter for clean air" also has its drawbacks. The cat is distinguished by the suppression of the n-th number of horsepower. In addition, it is not very reliable and often fails. If the car owner "slept through" the repair, the catalyst generates numerous noises and rattles when the engine is running. Some "shabby" motorists recommend removing the catalyst from the car. As a result, changes in fuel consumption will quickly become noticeable - the savings are obvious. Everyone knows that a clogged cut "eats" a lot of fuel mixture. Whether to remove this component from his car or not - each owner decides for himself. This article is not a guide to action, but just reasoning on the topic.
Knock out the catalyst, how it will affect the engine
As I wrote from above, this is just an ecology system, and if it does not exist, then the car, on the contrary, will improve its characteristics (power, consumption). To put it simply, the engine does not care about this converter, whether it is there or not. But why, on many machines, if this unit is out of order (say, melted, clogged or crumbled), starts to burn CHECK ENGINE and the car begins to behave abnormally, traction disappears, sometimes a little troit, but it may be corny at all to not start. And here friends everything is simple. If the catalyst is melted or clogged, then the exhaust gases cannot pass through it normally, which means that part of it returns back to the combustion chamber and makes the newly supplied combustible mixture less effective. The motor chokes itself.
If there is no melting, but the "CHECK" is on fire, then it is possible that it has simply worn out from the high mileage. In modern cars there are so-called oxygen sensors (lambda umbrellas), one stands in front of the catalyst, the other after and catches the presence of harmful compounds, if their percentage has increased, then the second (or also called the lower "lambda") gives a signal that the neutralizer is not working ( or does its job not as it should) AND IT SHOULD BE REPLACED. By the way, some cars may not even start (a tribute to the environment).
Thus - by knocking out or removing it, you simply free the exhaust tract of the car from the obstacle in the form of a filter and lower its environmental standard. BUT ONCE AGAIN - THIS DOES NOT AFFECT IN THE RESOURCE OF THE POWER UNIT!
BUT in order for your car to drive normally, you need to "flash" under a reduced ecological class (usually EURO2) or put a snag. Otherwise, the program in the ECU will not allow you to drive normally.
Firmware for EURO2 and snag
As I wrote above - the second oxygen sensor (lower lambda) monitors harmful emissions. Their number is now strictly regulated by European standards, which are called "EURO", I will not talk about EURO "0-1" now, we are interested in the second generation. So, what is EURO2. It was introduced a long time ago, namely in 1996. At that time, the cars received an innovative system, namely a catalyst. As we all know, over time it can get clogged, and the fuel then was not the same as it is now, there was a lot of sulfur in it, which contributed to the clogging of honeycombs much faster, and as you and I know, the car began to choke itself. Then the engineers installed an oxygen sensor, it was only one, and it was needed to capture CO2 in a chamber in front of the catalytic converter.
If the CO2 level increased, this indirectly indicated that the catalyst was clogged (that is, the effect of back pressure is manifested), the sensor sent this information to the ECU and the ignition was corrected, namely, a decrease in the supply of the fuel mixture. Thus, the power dropped a lot, the car did not run and the owner "willy-nilly" had to go to the service station and change this spare part.
BUT as we all know the price tag, to put it mildly - HIGH, so many owners simply removed these cells and the POWER WAS RESTORED!
But how? YES, everything is simple, the level of CO2 in the chamber in front of the neutralizer dropped much, the oxygen sensor recorded it (that everything was in order) and the car was going briskly and not forcedly. It suited everyone, BUT ONLY NOT ECOLOGISTS! Therefore, they introduced the EURO3 standard (now the EURO5 standard already exists). What has changed, but there is simply a second oxygen sensor (lower lambda) behind the catalyst. The principle of operation here is as follows - the first lambda (in front of the filter) fixes the level of harmful substances, the second (after it) should fix the level much lower, because the harmful substances have decomposed.
If you remove the honeycomb of the catalyst, then both sensors will record the same values (the "second" feeds information to the ECU), thus - CHECK ENGINE will light up, the power will drop, the car will not drive. Now this does not solve the problem.
What is done by the firmware under EURO2? The firmware in the ECU is changed, instead of the EURO3.4 standards, the EURO2 standards are set. The essence of all these actions is trivial - we just turn off the second lower lambda (only one upper lambda remains), the car starts to drive as expected, without underestimating the power. But such interference with the firmware is not very good. The thing is that they are produced not by the manufacturers themselves, but by "craftsmen", okay, that the second "lambda" is simply turned off, that is, just an adjustment of the readings. Or maybe this programmer wants to put some incomprehensible algorithms in the ECU, the motor will definitely not benefit from this. You have to be very careful here. Therefore, we found a second way out, and in my opinion, it is more correct - the installation of a snag. What is snag- in fact, it is a "spacer" in front of the second oxygen sensor, it kind of pushes it to a greater distance from the exhaust gases, it fixes more oxygen and starts to work normally. Now there are several options for trickery:✔ Empty. It's just a tube with a very thin hole at the end (the part that is screwed into the muffler), on the other side the oxygen sensor is screwed in. A limited amount of harmful substances from the exhaust passes through it, there is no excess and therefore the CHECK does not burn. ✔ With mini catalyst inside. That is, right in the "spacer" there are, as it were, mini honeycombs, which also clean the exhaust just to fix the normal values. ✔ Corner. These are both of the views described above, only they are made at an angle of 90 degrees, they are needed for difficult places.
The advantages of the blende are that there is no need to go into the ECU and change the standard firmware, as well as the price (knocked out the honeycomb, clocked the blende and that's it, you can keep within 3000 - 5000 rubles).
Fuel consumption after catalyst removal
After you have removed this filter, many are tormented by the question of fuel consumption - will it grow or not? Of course - he will fall (so I think), whoever says what. Let's think logically - if there is this filter element, it is an obstacle that must be overcome by the exhaust gases, and accordingly the engine will spend more effort to push them through (the flow rate increases slightly). If this element is NOT there, then the "development" will be much easier - fuel is saved. Of course, one should not expect any global savings, usually it is about 3% (maximum), but it is worth noting that the consumption will drop slightly.Replacing the catalyst with a stronger
The repair option is not expensive and the consequences are not so dire. In any case, if the vehicle catalyst fails, replacement of the burnt-out corrugation is required. Many craftsmen, when mounting a stronger, put a spacer under the 2nd lambda probe to eliminate diagnostic errors. The manipulation of removing the kata, replacing the corrugation and inserting into the vacant place of the stronger is truly the art of a surgeon. Therefore, if the owner of the car is not confident in his abilities, it is better to entrust the business to the professionals of the car service, the removal of the catalyst in the CJSC. The cost of the work is not great: the replacement itself is $ 15, the price of a new corrugation is $ 20, the stronger can be obtained for nothing after the old catalyst is scrapped (platinum is valued on the secondary raw materials market). You can return a kat for $ 35, which is equivalent to the cost of a stronger.
Problems are possible with the oxygen sensor (lambda probe). The threaded part of the spare part is cut from the kat and welded into the stronger. After that, the lambda is "planted" on the seat. Regarding the spacer, which supposedly eliminates the combustion of the Check engine, the service specialists unequivocally state that the device will not save you from the appearance of an error, therefore, it is pointless to spend efforts. Both oxygen sensors installed at the inlet and outlet of the catalyst operate on the principle of a large difference in readings. The spacer, of course, can act on the second lambda, but it is unlikely to deceive the on-board computer. All of the above manipulations are completed, the catalyst is knocked out and replaced by a stronger. Car testing shows no Check engine light is on. But it's too early to be guided by the first impression. After all, the onboard computer must analyze the performance of all systems, and this takes some time. The removed and hammered kat immediately changes the functioning of the engine for the better.
A few days later, the ill-fated light bulb still lit up. It is easy to eliminate the defect even if you have little knowledge of radiophysics.
Removing the CheckEngine message
It's kind of dumb to drive a car where the catalyst is knocked out and the Check engine light is on. The problem can be solved if you have an idea of \ u200b \ u200bthe operation of the on-board computer. All theoretical foundations can be viewed on the Internet, there are a lot of resources on this topic. Removing the error once is useless, so you need to act in a different direction. Re-flashing an onboard computer costs a lot of money, and you can only entrust the procedure to a professional. It is possible to purchase an emulator of the activity of the 2nd oxygen sensor, which works in electronic mode. At the same time, the price of such a device starts from hundreds of dollars and takes time to wait. Nobody undertakes to guarantee 100% effect.
A way to solve the problem may be another bypass of the on-board computer. The principle of analyzing the operation of oxygen sensors converges to the following scheme: the blue line of the oscillogram is the signal from the first lambda, and the yellow line is from the second. The second curve has a lower level and is devoid of bursts, dips. This is how the engine works when a working catalyst is in place. If the cat is removed, the line from the 2nd sensor becomes similar to the signal of the 1st device. The on-board computer quickly understands the discrepancy between the readings and the result - error 0420 and the burning of a red light on the dashboard. The task is a corrector to correct the signal from the second lambda probe. The solution to the problem is to install a serial R-C filter. Lowering the signal level is a function of the resistor, aligning the line is the operation of the capacitor. To connect the filter, you will need certain parts, which you can buy at any radio market or in specialized stores. You need to purchase 2 parts: a 1 MΩ resistance resistor (power 0.25-1 W) and a 1 mKF capacitor made of ceramic (electrolyte and polar will not work). The choice of the operating voltage should be in favor of a larger value, the thermal stability of the device depends on it. The parts need to be twisted, the joints must be soldered. Place everything in a miniature plastic box and cover with epoxy. After that, you need to find a second lambda probe installed under the car. The author of the experiment performed manipulations on a Honda Accord. The second oxygen sensor on this car has four wires: 2 black, 1 blue, and 1 white. The connection diagram can be seen in the diagram. At the end of the work, you need to solder all the twists and conduct insulation. The trick is securely fastened in case of vibration. The computer error must be cleared. To do this, you need to remove the negative terminal from the battery for 10-15 minutes. That's it - the catalyst is working properly, after that the system functions perfectly and the light does not light up anymore. A bit of radio electronics and the car does not notice the remote cat. The effectiveness of the work of the trompe l'oeil has been proven by numerous experiences of craftsmen - even a knocked-out catalyst does not affect the operation of the on-board computer!
Removing a catalyst on a VAZ
VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112 Motors with a volume of 1.5 L Catalyst as a separate can, from the bottom of the car. Remove or replace with an insert. 1.6 l - collector. We remove the cat or put a spider. VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115 Motors with a volume of 1.5L Catalyst as a separate can, from the bottom of the car. Remove or replace with an insert. 1.6 l - collector. We remove the cat or put a spider. VAZ 1118 Kalina Catcollector. We remove the cat or put a spider. VAZ 2170 Priora Catcollector. We remove the cat or put a spider. As for Prior, it should be noted that since 2009, M73 controllers with additional protection against reprogramming have been used on parts of the machines, so they cannot be flashed everywhere yet. But the solution exists and this is a temporary difficulty, which will soon lose its relevance. In conclusion, I would like to say to remove the catalyst - IT IS AT ALL WRONG from the ECOLOGY point of view. After all, our planet is already polluted, and thus you make it even dirtier!Sooner or later, car owners are faced with the need to remove the catalyst. Or they think they are colliding. Or they are simply convinced of this. We talked with a Mastery service station specialist, who specializes in solving any problems with the muffler - the engine exhaust system.
- In fact, few car owners have a good idea of when to remove the catalyst. Another thing is that not all car services are competent in this matter and sometimes offer to remove the catalyst in any incomprehensible situation, the specialist explains. - In addition, a lot of incorrect information has accumulated on the Internet, after reading which, many car owners often make the wrong decision to remove the catalyst.
When do you really need to remove the catalyst?
It's no secret that the inside of the catalyst is a ceramic or metal honeycomb, on the walls of which special elements are applied, acting as catalysts for chemical reactions, during which harmful compounds such as hydrocarbons (CH), nitrogen oxides (NOx), carbon monoxide ( CO), decompose and oxidize to harmless carbon dioxide (CO2) and water vapor (H2O). Thus, passing through the catalyst, the exhaust gases become cleaner and less stinky.
There are many symptoms that indicate catalyst aging and failure. For gasoline and diesel vehicles, these symptoms are slightly different.
On gasoline cars with catalytic converters, two things can happen:
● decrease in efficiency;
● mechanical destruction.
On diesel vehicles with a catalytic converter, the following may occur:
● clogging with soot.
Let's consider all catalyst malfunctions in more detail.
Decreased catalyst efficiency
Over time, the catalyst gradually loses its ability to purify exhaust gases, and the car for environmental friendliness of emissions no longer meets its standards (for example, Euro 4, Euro 5). And if the car is equipped with a second lambda probe, located after the catalyst, and is a diagnostic one (since about 1999 it has already been installed on almost all cars), then an error lights up on the instrument panel, which, in computer diagnostics, most often has the number P0420 and is deciphered as "The conversion rate of the catalytic converter is below the threshold value", "aging of the catalyst", "insufficient catalyst efficiency" and the like. It is clear that this error will also appear if the catalyst is removed. What to do?
In most cases, this error does not affect the operation of the engine at all and does not affect the driving of the car, but many car owners are justifiably not satisfied with the extraneous "light" constantly burning in front of their eyes, and they would like to make it so that it does not burn. There are three ways to clear the error. The first is the installation of a new original or universal catalyst, which, in fact, is provided by automakers and legislation throughout the civilized world. Indeed, it is possible to buy a new catalyst, but no one does it because of the high price of the new catalyst. A new original catalyst is an expensive part that will cost from a few hundred dollars to a thousand or more. Therefore, in our country, no one voluntarily installs a new catalyst, especially an original one. But there is a more budgetary alternative to the "original" - a new universal catalyst. True, this solution does not always work. In some cases, when the native catalyst has a too specific shape and location, it can be difficult to find a universal one that is suitable in size. In addition, they are usually made in China, and their resource and strength of the ceramics themselves are significantly lower than those of the original. Therefore, in cases where the installation of a universal catalyst is the optimal solution, we offer it exclusively in a metal version, since metal honeycombs are at least not prone to crumbling into pieces, unlike brittle ceramics. In general, it should be understood that a catalyst is such a thing, the safety and service life of which is less dependent on the catalyst itself, but mainly determined by the conditions in which it operates. The technical serviceability of the engine, in particular the normal operation of the fuel system and the ignition system, allows the catalyst to serve for a long time. That is why, when buying a catalyst, you will never get any serious warranty on it, even if you take the original from an authorized dealer. Too many external factors can have a negative impact on the catalyst resource.
The second way to remove the "catalyst" error is to put a special spacer under the second lambda probe, which is also known as "lambda probe blende". This blende reduces the amount of exhaust gases flowing to the lambda probe, and if it is improved, with a small catalyst inside, then this exhaust also undergoes some purification. As a result, the lambda probe sends signals to the control unit corresponding to a properly working catalyst, so the error does not light up. If the lambda probe snag does not help, there is a third way - programmatically disable the second lambda probe. This procedure is known as "flashing to Euro-2". The flashing consists in editing the factory settings of the engine control unit ("brains") in such a way that the second lambda probe does not appear in it and is not interrogated, and the rest of the engine works the same as before. However, this solution is not applicable to all cars, a lot here depends on the year of manufacture and the model of the control unit. Also, in some cases, software error elimination is possible only by increasing the threshold values of the signal from the second lambda probe, while the sensor itself must remain in place and be serviceable.
Mechanical destruction of the catalyst
If the engine runs perfectly and flawlessly all its life, then theoretically the catalyst can remain intact for the entire life of the car, even if it has long since lost its effectiveness. But, unfortunately, this is not always the case and not for everyone. The catalyst is a rather vulnerable part, and any malfunction of the fuel system or ignition can lead to its destruction. How does this happen? Very simple.
If the engine is unstable, troit or the valve timing is broken, then the unburned gasoline in the cylinder enters the catalyst, ignites there, instantly heating it to temperatures at which the ceramics overheat (literally glows red), loses its strength and subsequently begins to crumble into pieces and crush into dust. Or it may immediately melt, turning into a solid lump, which prevents the free passage of gases. By the way, on many fresh cars (up to 5 years old), the catalyst can crumble without any obvious reason. Apparently, this is due to the general trend towards a decrease in the safety factor and the resource of parts in new machines.
If the catalyst degrades, the driver will most likely feel the corresponding symptoms. Depending on how badly the damaged catalyst impedes the passage of exhaust gases, the traction of the car may decrease (up to a complete inability to move under its own power), the engine will hardly pick up speed, never reaching high values (up to the impossibility of working normally even at idle go). Of course, the destroyed catalyst should not remain on the machine. How to remove it, what to put in its place (pipe, flame arrester, another catalyst) - this is decided in each case individually, based on technical capabilities, budget and expediency.
Catalytic converter for diesel vehicles.
Perhaps the only thing that can happen to a catalyst on a diesel car is its clogging with soot. How soon this happens depends largely on driving style and on the condition of the fuel system. That is, the worse the diesel fuel burns, the more soot is formed and the faster the catalyst clogs up, again worsening the dynamics of the car. In addition, the increased exhaust resistance negatively affects the safety of the turbine.
Usually, in such cases, the catalyst is removed, which, of course, does not benefit the environment, but allows you to forget about the problem and to some extent save the owner's budget in the future. Less often they are washed with special chemistry, but there is no certainty that this will help for a long time, especially if the problem with increased soot formation has not been resolved, and smoke, black like cuttlefish ink, comes out of the pipe.
When do you really need to remove the catalyst?
The catalyst really needs to be removed if it breaks down mechanically. Or if the owner of the car, understanding everything that is stated above, wants to do this in any case, regardless of his condition.
Contrary to popular belief, the appearance of the P0420 code does not mean that the catalyst needs to be removed. A catalyst that has lost its effectiveness is not necessarily destroyed. It may well remain intact and not interfere with the car driving.
In turn, the surest way to diagnose a catalyst for destruction is to look directly inside it. There is no error indicating clogging, and power loss can occur due to many other malfunctions not related to the exhaust system.
When is it unnecessary or useless to remove the catalyst?
If smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe, do not rush to blame the catalyst and call the muffler repair. The catalyst has nothing to do with it. The toxic gases that it neutralizes are colorless, and the smoke indicates that the engine burns poorly fuel (for example, due to malfunctioning injectors, bad candles or wires) or something else besides fuel burns (for example, oil or antifreeze). Look for problems there.
When do you have to install a catalyst?
If the car is registered in the Republic of Belarus, and the data sheet indicates which environmental class the car corresponds to, then it will be checked for compliance with this class during the technical inspection. So if the catalyst has lost its effectiveness, then the owner will still have to buy a catalyst (a new original or universal catalyst) in order to undergo an inspection on its own. If nothing is indicated in the data sheet, then the generally accepted emission standards apply to the car, which any car will comply with, regardless of whether it has a catalyst or has already been removed. But provided that the engine and all its systems are in good working order. And if there are problems with the engine, and the exhaust is too toxic, then no catalyst will help here.
The flame arrester is not a catalyst, it does not purify the exhaust, nor does it extinguish any flame. By its design and essence, this is another direct-flow resonator in the system, which does not allow an increase in the exhaust volume after removing the catalyst and eliminates the characteristic unpleasant ringing that occurs in the empty catalyst housing.
