Now - a few words about the rest of the requirements for anchors and a vessel carrying out anchorage.
The literature describes in sufficient detail the requirements for large vessels. Requirements for "small sizes" are only general. But, given that the safety of the people on board is behind all this, in my opinion, it is worth talking about these issues in more detail.
The general requirement for any ships is that they must be equipped with an anchor device that can provide, under any (!) sailing conditions, a quick return and lifting of the anchor. That is, for PVC boats, first of all, the requirement for quick access to the anchor and anchor line stored on board. And one more important aspect must be taken into account when storing the anchor on board. When the boat is moving, especially in the mode of gliding into a wave, the anchor must be securely fastened in order to completely exclude its spontaneous fall overboard. An analysis of incidents on the water associated with such facts indicates the serious consequences of such a skipper's indiscretion. In my boat, the anchor is stored in a special plastic container that is fixed on board. And the anchor is already tied with a shkertik to the container.
Anchor rope should be laid in a convenient bay, or wound on a reel or reel.
After trying several different options for anchor lines, I ended up using only a sling for my boat. There are several reasons:
— it dangles in a convenient and compact bay
- strong enough especially if the sling is made of a stocking
- it fits perfectly into knots, both on the anchor eye and on the anchor itself, which, if necessary, are easy to untie
- and the most important property. When lifting the anchor, the sling does not cut the hands. If the anchor is taken very strongly in a “strong” place, then you can’t even damage the boat’s PVC inflatable balloon with a sling if you choose the anchor by “pumping out”.
Denford Anchor Plow Anchor 
Anchor Hall 
bruce's anchor 
Admiralty anchor 
Anchor atwood
Now about anchors. The anchor must have sufficient holding power to hold the vessel in the chosen anchorage. Therefore, a competent choice of anchor (weight and design) for a boat for various types of bottom is very important. The photographs show different types of anchors. But, the truth is, in my opinion, they are more suitable for large hard cases. Storing such a large anchor on small PVC boats can "eat" a large part of the already small cockpit of the vessel. After testing some of these anchors, I settled on a cat anchor, foldable and compact. Which has the necessary holding power on most bottom soils in those places where it is possible to fish. If the anchor on board is unable to securely hold the vessel at a particular point, there are several ways to increase its holding power. For PVC boats, we can recommend the most acceptable one: this is an additional load of the anchor rope a few meters from the point of its attachment to the anchor. The easiest way is a chain with medium-sized links. It is enough to attach two to three meters of such a chain to the anchor ring and the anchor cable in order to significantly increase the holding force by increasing the sag of the anchor cable and, accordingly, the angle of impact on the anchor.
An important point is the anchor cable attachment point on small PVC boats. Anchor fish should be located in the DP of the vessel on the stem or bow of the cylinder as low as possible. This is necessary to minimize the lever acting on the vessel during the passage of the wave, in order to avoid flooding through the bow.
Anchorage can be carried out both in an open roadstead and in a protected harbor. The type of parking is selected depending on its purpose and duration, the state of the vessel and weather conditions. It is also taken into account to what extent the anchorage is closed from wind and waves, how safe the approach to it is, what depths and what kind of soil, whether there are tides and currents in this place. And is it possible to weigh anchor and go to sea with a sudden change in wind direction.
The best soils for anchorage are clay, loam, silt with sand and thick silt. Sand, shell and small stone hold the anchor worse. The stove and liquid sludge do not hold at all. The bottom in the anchorage area should ideally be clean, flat or nearly flat. When choosing a place for long-term anchorage, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of turning the boat under the influence of wind and currents. It is necessary to have enough room to maneuver in case of unsuccessful anchoring.
With calm water without current, the etched anchor cable can be short - equal to about one and a half depth in this place. With waves, wind, current - the length of the cable should be increased, which prevents sharp jerks when lifting the boat on a wave, as well as wave overflow.
At night, after anchoring in the water area, a parking light should be turned on..
Now - directly about the technique of anchoring.
It is best to approach the anchorage point with your bow against the wind and current, and with their opposite action, against what acts more strongly.
If there is no certainty that the bottom in a given place is clean, a buoy with a tomb buoy is attached to the anchor trend, showing the location of the anchor. The length of the buoy is taken a little more than the depth in this area. If the anchorage is in a closed harbor with heavy traffic, then after the anchor is released, the end of the buoyrep is taken to the deck so that when shooting, the anchor can be pulled out if it catches on something. If there is no active movement in the water area, then the buoy remains afloat. All these additions to the anchor are best prepared in advance. As a buoyrep, you can use any synthetic cable with a thickness of more than 6 - 7 mm (if less, gloves should be used when selecting it) or a narrow synthetic sling. In this case, the buoyrep must withstand the weight of the anchor plus a force of 15 - 20 kg. And the buoy can be made from a brightly colored piece of foam or from a plastic bottle, filling it, for example, with pieces of paper or polyethylene in yellow or bright orange, making it noticeable on the water.
If for some reason it was necessary to anchor with a significant wave, then the buoy can also be fixed on the anchor cable. Due to its buoyancy, it will significantly reduce the sharpness of the jerks of the anchor cable during the passage of a boat wave.
In some cases, it is necessary to turn the anchored vessel at an angle to the wind. This may be necessary when, for example, the direction of the wind and the waves do not match - and roll begins. Then the setting on the spring is applied. What it is?
On the anchor cable, three to five meters from the place of attachment to the eye-handle on the boat, one more attachment point is made either with the help of a knot or with a carabiner. A spring is knitted to it - a cable with which the main anchor cable is pulled towards itself. The other end of the spring is attached in the stern area. By adjusting the force of its tension, you can change the angle of the boat relative to the wind and waves within the required limits. The same spring can be used for other purposes - as a means of lifting the anchor, when the boat has a bow fairing installed on the boat and it is difficult to get to the anchor eye.
The lifting of the anchor is started by pulling the cable onto the ship, and when the anchor cable takes a vertical position, then the anchor is torn off the ground and lifted. If it is not possible to tear off the anchor from the ground, then, maneuvering the vessel at low speed and entering from different sides with the bow or, in extreme cases, the stern, they repeat an attempt to tear off the anchor.
In order to create maximum force to break the anchor, you can lay the anchor cable on board or on the transom to the side of the motor - and rock the boat a little from side to side, holding the cable at maximum tension. If the anchor cannot be torn off the ground by the cable, you can try to lift it by the buoyrep. There is also a simplified scheme for tying an anchor to a cable without using a buoy.
In this case, the cable is knitted directly to the trend, and fixation to the ring is made with a thin rope or mounting wire. For these purposes, both a fishing line and a thin fishing line with a breaking load of 10-15 kg are suitable. Having broken this insurance, breaking the anchor, making an effort already in the trend, in most cases will be much easier.
Vladimir Sokolov
Also, read
Whether you're going to stop for lunch, looking for a bay to spend the night, or trying to keep your yacht from drifting... Either way, you need to anchor safely and securely. And even if at sunset you always return to the pier, remember: the anchor is a "strategic weapon" in the arsenal of security equipment on board. If the depth allows, many difficult situations can be stabilized by simply dropping the anchor, giving you time to deal with the problem. Even at great depths, simply lowering the anchor into the water can reduce drift or keep the boat bowed to the wind. Therefore, in the RYA Yachtmaster exam, you will definitely be asked to anchor the vessel in some place. And be sure that the place will be chosen so that the position is easily checked by alignments or bearings for coastal objects or noticeable landmarks. Today, many shipyards include in the standard specification of the yacht an anchor of the minimum weight, which you can "get rid of" without violating safety requirements. This anchor is cheaper and takes up less space. If you intend to anchor frequently, or plan to operate your boat in strong currents, it makes sense to "upgrade" by increasing the length and gauge of the chain and selecting a heavier weight anchor.
HOW IT WORKS
The vessel's anchor device includes an anchor of suitable mass and a chain (or cable) of the appropriate caliber and length. A winch is installed at the bow (and / or stern), capable of pulling a decent mass of anchor and chain, although this is done manually on small boats. However, the action of the anchor device depends not only on the mass and design of the anchor - the weight of the etched chain (cable) is also important. The chain provides a horizontal force to the anchor and also acts as a shock absorber. The holding force of the anchor depends on various factors: the nature of the soil, the mass and design of the anchor and its position on the bottom. The anchor has the maximum holding power if its spindle lies on the ground, and the chain approaches the anchor horizontally. Otherwise, when the load increases, the anchor rope is pulled, and the anchor may break. In addition, the part of the chain lying on the ground has its own holding power, so to ensure safe parking, you should give enough chain so that it partially lies on the ground.
PREPARING FOR ANCHORING
Preparing for the anchorage, first of all, it is worth carefully studying the map - and not only in order to look after a pretty bay. It is imperative to understand what the bottom is in this place (the Table shows the designations for Admiralty charts. - MBY). Any parking, except perhaps a short stop in favorable conditions, requires the return of the anchor. He must, firstly, catch on and, secondly, hold. The first is not always obtained immediately if, for example, there are algae, gravel or hard sand at the bottom. But even when hooked, the anchor in such soil can “creep” imperceptibly, and drift the vessel will not be found immediately.
Clay soils have the greatest holding capacity. However, during a long stay, the anchor and the part of the chain lying on the bottom can sink into the ground, and then it will not be easy to remove the anchor. The most favorable are silty or silty-sandy soils, in which the anchor immediately picks up and holds well. If you are about to drop anchor on a rocky, rocky or shell bottom, consider whether you are ready to spend a restless night or, worse, part with the anchor. The holding force of the anchor on such soils is only equal to the mass of it and the chain lying at the bottom. And even if he took the anchor, it’s too early to rejoice: he could get stuck in a crevice, from where it would be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to pull him out. A flat bottom is always better than sharply changing depths, where it is easy to miss the desired “step” and drop the anchor to too much depth (if it gets stuck there, you can say goodbye to it forever).
FINDING A SUITABLE PLACE
In addition to a favorable bottom, navigational safety is important. Parking, if possible, should be chosen in places protected from the prevailing winds, currents and sea waves. If you see other boats at anchor in the intended place, they will serve as a hint to you how your yacht will get up and what will happen to it. True, it is worth remembering that different types of ships in the same conditions may behave differently. If you are going to be at anchor for quite a long time, you need to know not only the direction of the wind at the moment, but also the forecast for its change. If the wind tends to change direction, then the advantageous situation when you are currently in a protected place may change: the wind will start blowing in the direction of the coast, pitching will begin, and if the anchor also “creeps”, you will be dragged ashore. Therefore, when choosing a place, check the forecast for wind direction and strength (see Fig. 1). It might be better to change seats immediately, or at least develop a plan for a safe retreat if the parking becomes uncomfortable.
LET'S ANCHOR
To drop anchor, turn on the anchor winch by disengaging all locking devices (unless your boat is equipped with manual release of the anchor). Then turn the boat to face the wind or the current, whichever affects it the most (remember other boats at anchor are a good clue), and stop: we want zero speed relative to the bottom. When you are sure that the boat has stopped, you can release the anchor using the down button/switch for controlled anchor release, or simply release the stopper so that the anchor falls freely to the bottom under its own weight.
HOW MUCH CHAIN TO ERROR?
It is necessary to know exactly the depth at the parking lot: it depends on how much chain needs to be etched.
Vibration of the anchor chain usually means that the anchor is "creeping" and the setting needs to be redone.
The usual recommendation is four depths if you have an anchor chain, and six depths if you are using a combination of chain and line (see Figure 2). Marking the chain at regular intervals with colored cord is a good way to know exactly how many meters you have already released. If there is no marking, you can note how many seconds it takes about one meter to “leave”, and then calculate the time required to etch the desired length. It is important that the anchor hits the bottom before you reverse, but you should also not let the chain pile up on the bottom (see Figure 2). For overnight stays, you can etch more chain to sleep more peacefully, but do not forget: on a long chain, the yacht “drives” along a much larger trajectory, which is unacceptable if there are a lot of ships in the bay. In tidal waters, calculating the length of the chain is more difficult, because you need to take into account how the depth will change while you are at anchor. If you want to stay at anchor all night, you must take into account the full cycle of the tide. So, continue to play off the chain while the boat is blown back by the wind and / or current. In calm and no current, you may have to “push” the boat back a little, briefly and discretely working the gas / reverse handle (see Fig. 3).
After you have etched enough of the anchor chain, carefully back off a little more to make sure the anchor is hooked and holding. If this happened, you will see how the chain is stretched. On many motor boats, the anchor device is almost invisible from the helm station, so the help of the crew may be required at this stage. If you see or feel the chain vibrate, this is usually a sign that the anchor is "creeping" and the anchoring needs to be redone.
CHECK HOW IT HOLDS
In order to later understand if the boat is drifting, you will need suitable landmarks (see Fig. 4). Usually at anchorage, the wind evenly "drives" the boat in an arc. To evaluate this movement, you need to notice the alignments on the shore (on board and on the course - so you will quickly understand if something has suddenly changed). If the wind or current has changed direction, new alignments should be chosen. In addition, most modern chartplotters have the Anchor Watch function: if there is drift, the device will notify you when your coordinates are outside the specified circle. If there are many other vessels besides you at the anchorage or the bottom is not clean, it is worth using a buoy (see inset to Fig. 4). A rope attached to the anchor will allow you to tear the anchor off the ground if it is stuck. When you are sure that the anchor is holding, it is good practice to take the weight off the winch: they are not always designed to hold the entire weight of the vessel for a long time. Either use a stopper, or use a hook or rope through the chain link to transfer the load to the nearest suitable cleat.
ANCHORING
If you stayed at anchor long enough, your boat could be properly “drifted” or even demolished. Therefore, when you are going to raise the anchor, send someone from the team to the bow to clarify the direction of the chain. Move slowly forward along the chain towards the anchor so that the winch is just picking up the chain and not pulling the boat forward. Depending on how your yacht is equipped, you can operate the winch from the helm station or directly from the bow; if you trust the latter to anyone on the team, make sure that you use the same conditional signals and act in a coordinated manner. A chain that goes vertically down from the bow is a sign that the ship is above the anchor. If at the same time it is not possible to raise it, lock the chain and move forward slightly: this will pull out the anchor if it lay unsuccessfully. When the anchor is raised and secured, the anchor winch control should be turned off so that no one accidentally releases the anchor. In the next issue we will consider the situation "Man overboard".
When choosing an anchorage, the depths, protection from wind and waves, the size of the anchorage, the presence and characteristics of tidal phenomena, the bottom relief and the nature of the soil, the proximity of navigational hazards, the presence of landmarks, the state and forecast of the weather, as well as the characteristics of the vessel and expected duration of anchorage.
The size of the water area required for the anchorage is approximately estimated by the radius R, calculated by the formula:
l is the length of the anchor rope required for safe parking, m;
H"- anchor hawse height above the ground, m;
L- vessel length, m;
DR-distance margin, selected depending on specific conditions and circumstances, m.
Minimum depth H , providing safe parking is calculated by the formula:
, Where
T is the maximum draft of the ship, m;
h in - probable wave height for a given season in the anchorage area, m,
The safety of the parking lot is largely determined by the nature of the soil, on which the holding power of the anchor depends. Silty-sandy and clayey-sandy soils, as well as gravel and shells mixed with clay and silt, have good properties in this regard. By themselves, silt and clay strongly suck in anchors, which makes it difficult, and sometimes impossible, to separate them from the ground. Rocky soils made of boulders, large rocks or slabs are especially unfavorable for anchorage. On such soils, anchors are poorly held, and the vessel, under the influence of wind or current, acquires a significant drift speed, which can lead to a break in the anchor chain if the anchor gets stuck in a crack or catches on a rock ledge.
Maneuvering during anchor operations.
When approaching the anchorage, the speed of the vessel should be low in order to be able to absorb inertia and prevent jerking when entering the rope.
With free etching of the chain after the anchor is released, the ship, even after clamping the tape stopper, has the ability to advance until the rope is straightened for a very short distance, amounting to 0.3-0.4 depths - with the length of the etched rope equal to 3-4 depths, i.e. one tenth of the length of the etched rope. The elastic extension of the anchor chain increases this distance by approximately 2-3% more of the chain length.
When repaying the kinetic energy of a moving vessel at a short distance, if the anchor picks up the ground and does not crawl, a jerk of great force occurs.
When the speed of the ship doubles, the force of the jerk increases four times, that is, in a quadratic dependence.
If the main engine works in the direction of inertia cancellation, then part of the vessel's kinetic energy is compensated by the operation of the propeller and the maximum jerk force at the same initial vessel speed is reduced by an amount equal to approximately twice the propeller thrust force. This very important circumstance must be used to avoid breaking the anchor chain or breaking the anchor if the speed of the vessel exceeds the permissible value.
Permissible speeds are calculated taking into account the preservation of a double margin of safety, i.e., taking into account the fact that the jerk force reaches half the breaking strength of the anchor chain.
In the calculations, the average values of the power of the main engines, typical for ships of a given displacement in cargo, as well as the average calibers of the anchor chains, were taken. Therefore, taking into account that the weight of the anchor, and hence the caliber of the chain, is selected for the ship not only by displacement, but also taking into account the sail area, as well as possible deviations of power from the accepted average values.
For vessels in ballast with displacements of about half the tabular allowable speeds increase by approximately 10-50%.
If the anchoring is carried out on a single-rotor right-handed pint vessel with significant wind strength, and the limited water area does not allow approaching the chosen anchorage with the bow into the wind, maneuvering must be carried out at a more or less significant speed in order to maintain control of the vessel and prevent large drift . In this case, it is recommended, if circumstances permit, to calculate the maneuver in such a way that when approaching the place of anchor release, the vessel turns to the right.
It is known that in the first period after shifting the rudder on board with the engine running forward, the ship loses speed no worse than after giving full reverse on a straight course. Therefore, even before the engine is reversed, it is recommended to shift the rudder to the right side, and when the ship acquires sufficient angular speed, give full speed back, after which, in the chosen place, give up the starboard anchor.
Due to the significant drift angle on the circulation towards the outer side, the anchor chain will be pulled towards the stern at a significant angle to the DP. This will drastically reduce the force of the jerk when stopping the chain. When performing a similar maneuver with a turn to the left and the return of the left anchor, it must be taken into account that after the engine is reversed, the turn to the left quickly stops due to the lateral force of the propeller operating in reverse. Therefore, a jerk may occur.
In any case, it is necessary to delay the anchor chain smoothly so that the windlass sprocket can turn if the chain tension suddenly increases sharply. It is possible to fully clamp the tape stopper only after the vessel has entered the rope and the inertia has been extinguished.
On dense silty and clayey soils, even small jerks that can pull the anchor out of the ground are extremely undesirable, since after that the anchor, covered with dense soil, does not pick up well, and the ship can drift.
When anchoring in a current, it must be taken into account that a vessel that is stationary relative to the water continues to move relative to the ground at a current speed that can significantly exceed the permissible speed when anchoring. In this case, it is necessary to approach the place of anchor release as strictly as possible against the current, controlling the actual speed by buoys, other anchored vessels, or coastal landmarks. In the absence of reference points, you should first etch the chain to a length only slightly exceeding the height of the hawse above the ground, which will allow you to determine the direction of movement of the vessel relative to the ground by the tension of the rope and, if necessary, extinguish the inertia with the engine.
When anchoring at depths exceeding 25-30 m, as well as when recoiling on rocky ground, you must first bleed the anchor with a windlass to a height of about 5 m above the ground and only then produce a return from the tape stopper.
If the ground anchor is used to improve turnability and reduce drift when maneuvering at low speed in cramped conditions, then the length of the etched chain should be 1.5 times the height of the anchor hawse above the ground. Under this condition, the chain makes an angle of approximately 45 ° with the ground, and since the maximum angle of deviation of the anchor paws from the spindle is approximately the same value, when the anchor is pulled, its paws move parallel to the ground surface without burrowing into it.
When surveying from anchor with significant wind or current, it should be taken into account that the vessel begins to drift even before the anchor is lifted from the ground. In this case, the anchor may catch on the anchor chain of another vessel, a bulk or dangerous drift towards shallow depths may occur. Therefore, it is necessary to use the main engine and rudder to hold the vessel in place until the anchor is lifted from the ground.
When shooting from anchor in a tight roadstead, it should be taken into account that the propulsion of the vessel when turning from a place at an average speed with the rudder on board is approximately two times less than the propulsion during circulation at a steady forward speed. If, due to lack of free space, there is no confidence in the success of the turn, then you should first turn the vessel with an anchor on the ground using the engine and rudder in the desired direction.
When maneuvering after anchoring in cramped conditions on a single-rotor vessel with a right-hand rotation propeller, turns to the right, all other things being equal, are usually safer than to the left, since, if necessary, inertia can be reduced or extinguished by reversing without stopping the turn to the right.
The choice of anchorage along with a suitable anchoring device is a decisive factor for a restful night's sleep. But not all bays allow you to anchor without much thought and preparation. We will show how charts are read correctly, and what needs to be done in advance to be sure of the safety and comfort of the anchorage.
Forward - to new bays
You won't find a better anchorage! A lonely island with a steep coast that protects from the gusty south-east wind. Many ships seek shelter from the wind on the lee side of the island and anchor in the sandy bottom. Only a few leave the anchorage again in the late afternoon to return to the port and spend the night there. It happens as it should happen: at night a storm front comes to the anchorage. The wind changes to the west, it starts to rain, and the boats, under strong gusts of wind and the increasing roughness of the sea, are torn more and more stubbornly from their anchor chains. There is a risk of being nailed to the lee shore, on some yachts the anchor breaks out of the ground and begins to be demolished, the rest let the anchor chain go a little, turning on the engine. In 20 minutes the front passes. Silence reigns again on a small island in the Baltic Sea.
Was the anchorage chosen right in the end? There are not many sheltered bays that provide sufficient protection for any change in wind direction. Most often, bays are not protected on one side. It must always be remembered that the direction of the wind can suddenly change, and this fact must be constantly taken into account when choosing an anchorage. Somewhere nearby there might well be a wooded shore that would provide protection from the westerly wind. Safe harbor in close proximity. Preliminary thorough work with the map, of course, will not allow you to avoid all the problems associated with changing weather conditions, but it will allow you to better respond to unexpected, most often local weather changes.
Choosing the right anchorage begins with looking at paper navigational charts. Digital navigation charts on the small display of a chart plotter are less useful, since the surrounding conditions of the desired parking area can only be viewed by scrolling. A paper navigation map, on the other hand, provides a detailed overview of both the place of interest itself and the surrounding area. Along with information about fairway markings and lines of equal depths, it gives an idea of the topographical details of the coastline, which must be taken into account when choosing an anchorage.
Map 1 (INT 1) of the German Federal Office on maritime navigation and hydrography (BSH) provides information on symbols, abbreviations and terms on official navigational charts. She, for example, explains the pictograms that indicate rocky coasts, wooded areas, steep banks, and even houses on navigational charts.
After a little training, when looking at the navigation chart, an idea of the selected anchorage is already formed in the head. On the following pages we will present you with a number of anchorages on the coast of the North and Baltic Seas and show you what details in navigational charts will allow you to make a conclusion about the security of the anchorage.
Working with cards
Navigation charts show specific details not only of the water surface, but also of the coast. For ships at anchor, information such as forest cover or relief is interesting. Information about the coast is also important. Yachts anchored on a steep bank are more protected than those on a flat spit, while rocky coastlines often suggest that the seabed will also be rocky.
Well protected bays
Bay protected on all sides- rare and favorite shelters in order to wait out the storm. Ideally, their diameter does not exceed one or two nautical miles, and the only narrow entrance to them ensures that the free wave of the open sea does not find its way into the bay. In the Baltic Sea, the coastal zone of these bays is most often surrounded by forest and has small hills that provide good protection even in strong winds.
If you anchor not too close to the shore, then in small bays of this type, even unexpected changes in wind direction can be neglected. However, you should constantly check whether the anchor is still holding. In the northern part of the strait Als Sund the bay is located Divig (Dyvig), which is highly rated as an anchorage.
Why is she so popular among Danish yachtsmen? The entrance at the southern end of the bay is narrow, and is distinguishable only in front of the very entrance to the bay. In addition, immediately after the entrance to it, the bay turns sharply to the north in such a way that the free wave of the open sea, which comes from the west, cannot greatly interfere with the yachts at anchor. The shores are covered with forest and on all sides offer sufficient protection against headwinds. An isobath of two meters runs at a short distance from the coast parallel to it and thus prevents the yachts from drifting when the wind direction changes towards the slope of the coast. If it gets too uncomfortable, the two small harbors at the northern end of the bay can be used as an alternative for anchoring.
“The narrow passage is a typical sign of such a safe bay from all sides”
The bay is also well protected. Helnes (Helnaes), lying southwest of the island Fyn (F?nen), with the same characteristics, but much larger. A large peninsula protects the bay from the west, while three smaller islands enclose the bay from the south. The bay offers a great variety of anchorages, and in any wind direction there is a calm place. Of course, when the direction of the wind changes, it should be changed.
According to the map the banks are densely forested and provide some basic protection. With a strong westerly wind, protection can be found on the lee side of the peninsula. Not only because the coast is covered with dense forest there, but also because the small dot on the map symbolizes that the anchorage is protected by a hill. The height mark passes on the map in close proximity to the coastline, so the coast goes up quite steeply by more than 20 meters. Such areas are distributed throughout the bay and promise good protection when the wind direction changes.
fjords
During the last ice age, huge glaciers covered large parts of the north. Giant masses of ice on their way to the lower regions of the modern Baltic Sea burrowed into the landscape and left a kilometer-long furrow on today's coast. These narrow sea bays often offer excellent anchorage conditions, as nature itself has made them sheltered.
In Schlein (Schlei), one of the narrowest fjords, anchorage opportunities are presented one after another. When meteorological conditions change, ships can use another bay. Due to the narrowness of the fjords, a strong wave can neither be formed here nor penetrate from outside: natural sandbanks that have formed at the confluence with the Baltic Sea prevent the wave from entering the strait Belt. Larger, semi-circular bays, called noors, can become shallow when there is a strong westerly wind.
Strong winds of 6 Beaufort can cause strong currents or changes in water levels, but this is rare. In both bays to the south and north of the harbor, shown on the map fragment, you can easily find a place to anchor.
When weather conditions change, you need to look for another place to park. It's rare that it's really bad here. But if, nevertheless, the water level changes noticeably, for reinsurance, you should go to a nearby harbor.
Crescent islands
When crossing the islands of the Danish South Sea, the most common type of anchor bay is crescent bay, which is not protected on one side. Most often we are talking about a flat spit, which protects the anchorage, at least from a free wave. Since such spits are mostly sand, they do not provide sufficient protection from the wind, but they have an excellent sandy bottom for anchoring. Bay on the island Avernako (Avernako), shown in the photo, provides sufficient protection in westerly conditions and has a good seabed for anchoring due to the sandbar, which is marked with a dotted line.
Even if the occurrence of a wave in the bay is impossible, with a strong wind it can become uncomfortable. To the north of the bay there is a steep coast and a hill, which provide an alternative in strong winds. In bays of this type, a little more attention is required, as it is necessary to react to changes in wind direction. If the wind direction remains constant, these coves will provide a relaxing anchorage that will be a memorable sailing experience.
Wadden Sea/tidal zones
wadden sea is a one-of-a-kind natural landscape created by the changing tides that cause the watts to change every day. Frisian Islands, which stretch along the Dutch and German coasts, surround the Wadden Sea and protect the inlet fairway from the partially unfavorable conditions of the North Sea. Constantly changing water levels and tidal currents require a high degree of attention and care from yachtsmen. However, not only navigation in watts requires great attention, anchoring is also subject to other rules. However, if some basic rules are observed when choosing an anchorage, the Wadden Sea provides a variety of and, above all, well-protected anchorages.
wadden sea cut through by natural ducts: tides. They provide movement - the ingress of water into watts and back. While some tides are drained at low tide, large tides even at low tide reach a depth of four meters. On nautical charts, the depth of the shore is indicated as LAT (Lowest Astronomical Tide) and indicates the lowest possible water level. Even during strong spring tides, this value is less than the value stated on the map, so there is still a lot of water under the keel, an order of magnitude more than what is stated on the map.
Since the Wadden Sea is a protected area, there are special traffic rules that are developed in accordance with state laws and land regulations. Compliance with these rules is mandatory in order not to cause great harm to the animal and plant world. The Union of Yachtsmen - Shallow Watermen, representing the interests of those who walk in the coastal strip of the North Sea, has developed its own code of honor.
The main one is the provision that zone 1 marked on navigational charts is a territory where anchoring is prohibited. This also applies to the marked fairway. Otherwise, anchoring in the Wadden Sea does not present any particular problems, says Olaf Morgenstern, an experienced yachtsman who regularly anchors in the North Sea shoreline and also runs aground at low tide.
Even though shallow water yachtsmen choose their anchorage most often intuitively, they follow clear rules that can be well understood from a nautical chart and always guided by them.
Since a lot of water flows through deep-sea tides, fast currents occur in them, while the ground is most often very hard. In conditions where the wind blows against the current, rough seas begin, which prevents restful anchorage: an unfavorable circumstance for a calm anchorage. Therefore, deep-sea tides, which are easily recognized on navigation charts, should be avoided.
More suitable are shallow tides, which even at low tide provide a sufficient supply of water and also have soil with a slight rise towards the shoal.
Most often, the water there is much calmer, the current is not so strong, and the ground is mostly soft. In the event of a change in wind direction, with a strong wind of 6 on the Beaufort scale, these places will lose their attractiveness anyway. Some places offer complete comfort, as even at low tide they are not without water, so that under the keel there is always the desired water to the width of a hand.
In soft muddy ground, the keel is buried a few more centimeters, thus preventing any unintentional capsizing of the boat. If the keel is still stuck in the mud, and at the last moment before low tide you want to start the engine and leave the anchorage, a cup of coffee, a good book and waiting for the tide will be the best alternative. “If you try with all your might to pull the ship out of the silt, the propeller can leave furrows in watts up to two meters deep,” says Iris Bornhold, chairman of the union Soltwaters Wattseglervereinigung.
In the following sections, we will introduce you to some locations along the North Sea shoreline and, based on information from a nautical chart, show you what makes a good intertidal anchorage.
Code of honor Soltwaters Wattseglervereinigung for those who walk in the coastal strip of the North Sea
- Behave in the Wadden Sea ...,
…as if you are visiting mother nature. The Wadden Sea is a territory where peace reigns. Consider this in all your actions, avoid the loud and fussy noise of the engine, the unnecessary flapping of the sail, loud music on the radio.
Feel your responsibility...
…for the behavior of others, especially your own team. Often, harm is done not intentionally, but out of ignorance. Along with his main responsibility to manage the yacht and the crew, the skipper must familiarize his crew with the features and beauty of the Wadden Sea and orient their behavior in harmony with nature.
Don't throw anything overboard...
…especially no cans or bottles, no plastic, oils or paint residue. For household waste, there are trash cans that can be found in any harbor
“Be respectful of restricted areas…”
…there are a number of prohibited areas, which are indicated on the relevant navigation maps. They must protect the sensitive plants and animal species of the Wadden Sea from possible disturbance, especially during the incubation and mating season, respectively from 1.04 to 31.07. every year. Don't disturb seals or birds even for the sake of photographing them. Seals are very curious by nature - they themselves come closer to the ship. And then with the help of a telephoto lens, you can take impressive pictures.
Shallow tides with a slight rise in the shoreline
small tides, which, even at low tide, are filled with water and provide an opportunity for anchoring, are more suitable than large and deep ones.
Since the current in these shallow troughs is not particularly strong, not steep slopes form on the sides of the trough, but sloping, soft ground.
Such conditions promise a generally easy location on the tide-flooded North Sea coastline, with the added benefit of being elevated to windward.
Since there are no great elevations in the watts, and the highest being flat sandbanks at low tide, despite the calm water, there is no protection from the wind. However, if a parking spot is chosen near one of the islands, a little protection from the wind can be found.
Surrounded by small rises in the coastline, the tides
In the Wadden Sea, it is rare, but still, you can find places for anchorage, similar to the bays of the Baltic Sea protected from all sides. Although these ‚bowls‘ are not surrounded by protective coastal formations, there are places surrounded by a slight rise in the coastline and there is sufficient depth even at low tide.
Since the slight rise of the coastline ensures that waves do not form and wind protection is provided in almost all directions, such bays are an ideal alternative to crowded harbors. True, they are not easy to recognize on the map. Most often, they branch off from a small tide and end at low tide at a small rise in the coastline.
Deeper tides
Even if deep tides are less suitable for anchorage, it sometimes becomes necessary to look for a more or less suitable place there. During the summer months, most of the island's harbors are often hopelessly crowded. Anyone who, after a long day of sailing, comes to the harbor in the evening and realizes that it is completely packed, has two alternatives: to drop anchor somewhere nearby or sail for another couple of hours to the next harbor.
Since the last option is not always feasible due to the action of the tides, and the other harbor, perhaps, can also be occupied, only the first option remains open. In the coastal zone of the Netherlands, in watts, large deep tides predominate, the depth of which even at low tide is ten meters, so you have to look for a suitable parking place there. Along the edges of the tide, the current is much less, the tides go close to the land, so that the island itself protects the ship a little.
Of course, behind the fairway it quickly becomes so shallow that you should anchor immediately behind the line of buoys. Ideally, another small shallow water zone can be found on the map. Although it can be uncomfortable in a situation of "wind against the direction of the current", but the stretching shallows along the edges of the shore delay a large free wave.
practical advice
When anchoring in watts always keep a spare anchor at the stern ready. If the bow anchor slips, the stern anchor can be quickly thrown out, which will additionally prevent both chains from twisting. With a change in the direction of water movement, the anchor should also be controlled, and if necessary, thrown again.
