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Starter Solenoid Relay - Inspection and Repair. Starter retractor relay - device, malfunctions, check VAZ 2110 check the retractor relay

Probably, many drivers got into a situation when the engine flatly refused to start? Especially often this problem arises among the owners of old Zhiguli, and in general, in domestic cars, because they do not want to work normally. It's good if the battery is dead. No, this, of course, is very bad, but much better than a covered wiring, the entire starter or its retractor relay, because the battery can be recharged from any car by throwing the wires, and serious problems will arise with the rest. However, in order not to get into such a vile situation, it would be nice to know how to check the starter retractor relay- useful for the future to any driver.

Test preparation and required tools

To normally reach the retractor relay with your hands, you need to take care of access to it. If you still have a foreign car, then the car will have to be driven into a pit, overpass or, in extreme cases, raised on a jack to the maximum in order to crawl under it, because for most foreign cars this part is accessible only from below, and if you are the owner of a miracle of the domestic auto industry , then everything is much simpler and easier - just open the hood. Finding the retractor relay, find the terminals on it. This is easy to do, because there will be a wire on one of the terminals - this is a positive terminal.

A multimeter must be connected to this positive terminal in voltmeter mode. This is done easily and easily. Connect the red (positive) wire of the multimeter to the relay terminal, and throw the black (negative) wire to the vehicle ground. After connecting, either fix the wires in this position, or call a passer-by, an acquaintance, a relative (emphasize tedious) so that he (she) starts the engine. And you are looking at the readings of the device, which should give out stable 12 volts with repeated clicking of the starter.

Display errors and verification

The starter can trick you, because it can click even with less voltage. By the way, if it (voltage) is below 12 volts, then you need to charge the battery and / or check the ignition switch. In this case, it remains to resort to verification directly. To do this, turn off the engine, disconnect the wire from the relay (the one that runs from the ignition) and short-circuit the positive terminal with a screwdriver. This is a simple way to apply voltage directly to the starter relay.

If the car did not start in any way, then from such actions directly it can start instantly. By the way, if the car started up and connected directly, then either the ignition lock is closed and needs to be changed, or the relay has rotted and it also needs to be changed. That's all the checks. As you can see, there is nothing complicated and secret in this matter, and even a novice car enthusiast can cope with such a task.

Really good and competent mechanics, in the event of a starter or relay breakdown, strongly recommend changing the whole unit to hell, and not buying and installing individual parts. The fact is that relays with a starter work in unison and a detailed replacement of individual parts can cost, if not more expensive, then the same amount. The question is, why buy a part of the unit, when you can buy the whole one for the same money?

The check procedure, in the absence of engine start, is always the same. First, the battery charge is checked, then the ignition itself and, lastly, the starter with its retractor relay. Don't do the opposite, just waste extra time.

And the last thing. If the entire unit is out of order, do not rush to throw it into the trash can. Many offices completely replace their filling, and the money is cheaper than buying a new one. The economy will be modest, but it will be.

As a rule, if the battery is normal, but the starter does not work and the engine fails to start, then the most common reason is the failure of the retractor relay. For this reason, a general check of the starter and the solenoid relay is necessary.

In this article, we will look at how the starter retractor works and works, what signs indicate that there is a problem with this element, and how to check the car starter retractor.

Read in this article

Starter retractor relay: device and principle of operation

Let's start with the fact that the specified relay is an important element in the starter device. First of all, the starter has two relays. The first is responsible for turning it on and is located in the engine compartment (often in the fuse box). The second relay is traction, it is located on the starter itself.

Its task is to synchronize the starter circuits when starting the motor, redistribute the electricity between the starter motor and the relay electromagnet. Also, the specified relay brings the bendix gears to the teeth on the rim. After starting the motor, thanks to the relay, the bendix gear returns to its original position.

So, the starter traction relay, which motorists call the retractor relay (due to the return of the bendix gear in place), is not distinguished by a complex device.

Among the main components are:

relay body and contacts;
relay contact disc;
magnet (has a retraction and holding winding);
an anchor (core) with a starter relay rod and a fork drive rod;
return springs;

The relay is based on a retraction coil, which is shaped like a cylinder and is an electromagnet. Inside which is placed a movable core, while from above the turns of the holding coil are wound.

One side of the core has a stem extending beyond the housing that pushes the starter plug. There is a hole at the end of the stem, there may also be a crossbar, depending on the car model.

On the other side there is a rod, at the end of which the contact disk of the starter relay is located. The solenoid relay body itself looks like a rubber cup, into which 2 contacts are pressed. The contacts are threaded, where the terminals are attached with nuts.

A rim is made between the contacts on the outside of the cover to avoid short circuits. The cover is screwed to the end of the relay so that the contacts come out opposite the contact disk, which is located on the core rod.

The traction relay is installed above the starter and is securely attached to it. If there is such a need, it is quite easy to remove the relay. The only thing is that the starter itself will also need to be removed.

As a rule, the starter relay comes in the form of a collapsible product that can be checked and repaired, and there are also non-collapsible options. In this case, the relay only changes to a new non-collapsible or collapsible if necessary.

How does a solenoid relay work?

The principle of operation of the relay is that after the contacts in the ignition lock are closed, it triggers the starter power relay, which then transfers the voltage to the pull-in winding. As a result, a magnetic field is created, which forces the armature to move inward into the winding.

In turn, this retraction of the armature, due to the rod, acts on the starter fork and makes it move, thereby shifting the bendix (freewheel). As a result, the starter gear is engaged with the flywheel ring. In parallel, the movement of the armature assists the disk mounted on the rod to close the contacts of the solenoid relay.

It turns out, while the armature is moving, the starter is connected to the flywheel and at the same time is directly connected to. Further, current flows through the starter motor (motor), the motor starts to work, starting the car engine.

At the moment the starter is turned on, the retraction coil is turned off, the electric current is transferred to the holding coil. In this case, this coil holds the armature in the extreme position.

This coil reduces the power consumption of the pull-in relay; much energy is expended on holding the armature in comparison with pull-in. This allows you to significantly reduce the energy consumption of the battery when starting the motor.

After the engine starts, the starter circuit is broken, the traction relay coil remains without electric current, and the spring returns the starter armature to its original position. Likewise, the bendix and contact disc will be diverted from the starter relay contacts.

In other words, when the winding is de-energized, the starter is disconnected from the flywheel, and also disconnected from the battery. After starting the engine, the starter is completely disconnected from the power supply and from the engine.

Starter Solenoid Relay: Troubleshooting and Repair

To begin with, the retractor relay of a VAZ starter or any other foreign car can often fail for the same reasons. Given that this element is reliable and durable, its breakdowns are the result of wear or high loads.

Usually, the driver may be faced with the fact that the retractor relay does not make any sounds after turning the ignition key, the relay clicks every other time, etc.

However, in such a situation, the starter retractor element may be damaged. This is not surprising since the starter relay operates with high voltages up to several hundred amperes. As a result:

the power contacts of the starter relay on the side of the contact disk side burn out;
there is a break in the holding or retraction winding;
there is a deformation of the return spring;
a short circuit occurs in the windings;
mechanical damage to parts in the solenoid relay device;

To accurately determine the cause of the malfunction, it is necessary to diagnose the relay. Considering that the relay works on the principle of an electromagnet after energizing the starter windings, it is important to find the problematic element. To begin with, you can pay attention to external signs.

In the case when the starter does not turn, it is quite possible:

the retractor relay works, but the starter does not start rotating;
the retractor relay and starter do not work;

So, the fact that the relay has been triggered is indicated by a click, which can be heard at the moment the armature is pulled inward. It turns out that by turning the key in the lock and fixing the click, we can assume that the relay is working properly.

Otherwise, that is, when the starter relay does not click, electricity is either not supplied to it, or the relay itself is out of order. By the way, it also happens that the retractor relay works, but the starter does not turn. In this case, the reason is the burnt out relay contacts.

To check this, you need to take a screwdriver and close the protruding parts of the contacts with it. If, after closing, the starter starts to turn, then the reason is in burnt contacts. If the short circuit does not help, then the malfunctions are associated with the starter itself.

It also happens when the starter and relay do not work at the same time. In this case, there can be several problems, starting with an open circuit or failure of elements in the ignition switch and ending with breaks in the winding of the solenoid relay, loss of contact with the mass of the coil, and others.

It also happens that the retractor relay is triggered, but at the same time extraneous sounds are heard (knocking, something rattles, etc.). Usually the reason is that the contact of the windings is bad. You can check it by measuring the resistance with a multimeter. Normally, the resistance of the retraction winding should be about 0.55 Ohm, and the holding one 0.75 Ohm.

If the readings are less, then this indicates a short circuit inside the winding, while a large resistance will indicate poor contact with ground and / or terminals. If you suspect that the winding is broken, you can check it using warning lamps and a battery.

By connecting a light bulb to the winding, it is checked whether it is on. If it is on, then everything is in order with the winding, but if ignition does not occur, this indicates an open circuit. The only thing, this method does not allow detecting a short circuit due to the fact that minor deviations in resistance do not affect the brightness of the control lamp.

In any case, if a problem is found, the solenoid relay is either repaired (collapsible) or replaced (non-collapsible). The collapsible relay is removed from the starter, after which it is often required to unsolder the winding leads. Then all contacts are checked, when they are burned, they are cleaned with fine sandpaper.

In a situation where the winding leads fall off the case, they are soldered into place. Also, during disassembly, parts of the relay that are worn out are determined and changed. As a result, the repair of the solenoid relay makes it possible to restore the working capacity of the part. However, with such an opportunity, it is better to immediately replace the starter relay with a new one, especially considering its quite affordable price.

What is the principle of the solenoid relay

Before moving on to the actual malfunctions and how to fix them, one should consider the very device of this relay and the principle of its operation. First of all, it should be said that this part is based on a conventional electromagnet, which includes 2 windings (retracting and holding), the relay design also includes a connection circuit to a starter and a core equipped with a return spring.

When the key is turned in the ignition lock, voltage is supplied from the car battery to the relay coils. As a result, an electromagnetic field is generated that moves the core, which is located in the housing. The core compresses the return spring. As a result, the opposite end of the “fork” is shifted towards the flywheel. During these processes, the gear, which is connected to the bendix, is pushed outward until it engages with the flywheel (its crown). The consequence of the engagement is the closure of the contacts on the built-in circuit for switching on the automobile starter. Then the retraction winding is disconnected, and the core is given a fixed position with the help of the holding winding, which continues to work.

When the engine is turned off with the key in the ignition lock, the voltage supply to the relay is immediately cut off. The anchor returns to its original position. The bendix and the fork, which are connected to it, change their position, which consists in their engagement with the flywheel. A breakdown of the solenoid relay can be considered critical, since it leads to the impossibility of starting the engine.

Solenoid relay circuit

Studying the diagram of a given starter part can make it easier to understand how the device works.

The relay has a pull-in winding, which is always connected to “minus” by means of a starter. The holding coil of the relay is connected directly to the battery. After pressing the working plate by the core of the relay to the bolts, a “plus” is supplied to the starter from the battery. The same "plus" is also fed to the output of the "minus" present on the retraction winding. As a result, the latter is turned off, and the electric current continues to move exclusively on the holding winding. The holding winding is weaker than the pulling winding, but its strength allows the core to be kept in the housing at all times, so that the motor can run continuously. The use of two windings makes it possible to achieve tangible savings in battery energy when starting the motor.

Breakdown of the relay: causes and symptoms

The external manifestations of the exit of the retractor relay of an automobile starter are as follows:

Turning the ignition key does not start the engine, or it can only be started after several attempts.
The starter rotates at high speed after starting the engine. You can hear this by the loud hum of the engine.

Breakdown of the relay is one of the likely reasons for the inability to start the car. In turn, there are several possible reasons for the failure of the solenoid relay:

burnout of the contact plates located in the inner part of the relay (commonly called “dimes”), a decrease in the contact area and “sticking” of these plates;
breakage or burning of the winding;
curvature of the return spring or its weakening;
short circuit formed in the winding.

If at least one of these symptoms is found, it is necessary to run the solenoid relay diagnostics.

How to test a relay

There are 2 ways to check. Let's consider them in more detail:

The operation of the relay is determined quite easily - when starting, a click is heard, which is emitted by a moving core (4). Such a click indicates the serviceability of the relay. In the absence of a click, it is possible to conclude that the solenoid relay has not operated. If the relay clicks, but the starter does not rotate, the reason for this may be the burning of the contacts in the relay.
When the relay is triggered with a kind of rattling, one can state the presence of faults in one or both of its windings (2, 3). In this situation, it is possible to check the solenoid relay using an ohmmeter by determining the resistance of the relay windings. It is necessary to remove the core (4), as well as the return spring (5, 7, 11) from the housing, then determine in pairs the resistance between the “mass” and the windings. It should be between 1 and 3 ohms. Then it is necessary to insert the core (4) back without inserting the spring (5, 7, 11), close the power contacts (8) and determine the resistance formed between them. It should be between 3 and 5 ohms and is specific to the relay. In the case when the measured value is outside the above range, this indicates a short circuit and failure of the relay coils (2, 3).

Responsible for the successful start of the engine. The situation when there is no reaction to turning the key in the ignition lock is familiar to many motorists. Under the hood, there is a whirring of an electric motor, dry clicks, or even silence reigns altogether. The result is the same - the car will not start.

This may indicate that a single part is faulty, which simultaneously performs two functions:

Closes the circuit of the main electric motor of the starter, driving its rotor into rotation.
Creates a force on the fork, moving the bendix along the rotor shaft. The bendix gear engages with the flywheel ring gear of the internal combustion engine and transmits the torque from the electric motor to the crankshaft.

On a long journey, it is not always possible to use the services of a repair shop or call an on-site team of specialists for help. You have to cope on your own. In order not to be completely helpless, it is necessary to study the principle of operation of the starter and retractor relay and their structure. Let's start in order.

Starter design

The unit used to start a car engine is inherently a compact and powerful electric motor, the design of which is complemented by several specific details:

Bendix located on the armature shaft (overrunning clutch), necessary for the transmission of torque from the electric motor to the crankshaft of the internal combustion engine.
A fork that moves the coupling longitudinally along the armature shaft. It is installed in the front cover ( mask) starter.
Solenoid relay, driving the plug and closing the electrical circuit through which the current flows to the windings of the electric motor. It, like the plug, is installed on the front cover.

The transmission of torque to the bendix can be carried out directly or through a torque-increasing planetary gearbox, which is mounted in the main body of the unit, its front or rear cover.

Starter Solenoid Relay Diagram

Starter solenoid relay

The construction of the assembly is quite simple. Inside the metal case there are:

A core, which is also called an armature or rotor. The core is made of a magnetic or magnetizable alloy, or is made in the form of a steel rod with a winding.
The drive rod is fixed to the mandrel.
Recoil spring of the armature.
Closing rod with contact plate located on it.
Contact plate compression and return springs.
Retractable winding.
Retaining winding.
The back cover of the relay is made of a dielectric material, most often plastic.
Bolts passing through the cover with contact plates located at their inner ends. From one of these bolts, current is applied to the retracting and holding windings.
In some cases, there are one or two additional terminals for supplying voltage to the windings.

The assembly is secured with screws or bolts to the front cover ( mask) starter.

The principle of operation of the starter and the solenoid relay

Let's move on from the description of the device to the principles of its operation. The moment you turn the key in the ignition, the following happens:

The terminals of the contact group are closed. The current is supplied to the bolts of the contact plates, and through them to the windings.
Formed on the windings the electromagnetic field moves the core towards the back cover.
The core pulls the end of the plug, fixed in the starter mask. The fork moves the bendix ( overrunning clutch) located on the shaft of the main starter motor.
Bendix engages with a crankshaft ring gear.
The closing rod under the pressure on it of the core is displaced back and bridges the contact plates.
The current flows to the windings of the main electric motor. The armature rotates and drives the crankshaft of the internal combustion engine.
After a power outage parts of the unit are returned to their original position under the influence of the return springs.

If the unit fails, the starter stops functioning normally and there are problems with starting the car's engine. Possible malfunctions include:

Mechanical damage.
Breakage in the winding.
Burning or destruction of the end plates.

It is not enough to study the device and understand how the mechanism works. It is advisable to learn how to identify and eliminate breakdowns.

Starter solenoid relay. The device and the principle of operation. Video:

Symptoms of a malfunctioning starter solenoid relay

Diagnostics and repairs should be started when the first alarming symptoms appear. This will significantly reduce repair costs and avoid serious troubles. Let's list the main symptoms:

The starter turns idle, the crankshaft does not rotate.
There are clicks in the area of the relay, but the electric motor does not work.
The engine has started, but the bendix does not disengage with the crankshaft flywheel ring gear.
The reaction to turning the key in the ignition lock or pressing the "Start" button is completely absent.

There are a number of primary reasons why the starter solenoid relay will not trip.

It is possible that they are the source of the problems that have arisen.

How to remove a solenoid relay?

You should not try to find and fix the problem directly on the car. It is much easier to do this by completely removing the starter. For this you have to:

Disconnect the battery by removing the terminals from it. Otherwise, a short circuit may occur during work, as a result of which the battery and other electrical components will fail.
Disconnect the wiring from the solenoid relay.
Unscrew the bolts with which the starter is attached to the car engine, and remove the part.

Only then can we proceed to diagnostics, removal, repair or replacement of the unit of interest to us. The first check is performed without prior disassembly. To complete it:

The current is supplied from the positive terminal of the storage battery to the contacts of the solenoid relay.
Using a wire, they bridge the body of the part ( the mass) with the negative terminal of the battery.

When everything is in order, the electric motor will begin to rotate, and the bendix will move forward. When the voltage supply is interrupted, the electric motor stops working and the clutch returns to its original position. But there may be other options:

The electric motor runs, the bendix extends, but does not come back.
Bendix extends, but the electric motor does not turn on.
The relay clicks or does not work at all. Bendix is motionless. The starter does not turn.

But these are all symptoms, and it is necessary to identify the causes of the malfunctions. To find them, it is necessary to dismantle the relay by unscrewing the bolts fastening to the cover and carefully disconnecting the stem from the plug.

In some cases, this can be done only by removing the entire front cover.

Checking the starter retractor relay. Video:

How to check the starter retractor relay?

The reason that the clutch does not return to its original position is mechanical breakdowns- damage to the stem, core, return springs. The part must definitely be replaced. In other cases, you can continue the checks and try to restore the lost functionality to the node. Checking the starter retractor relay is performed in several stages:

1. We connect the terminals of the windings and contact plates to the positive of the battery, and touch the minus with the relay case. Is the stem moving? We proceed to the next stage of diagnostics.

2. Using a multimeter, we measure the resistance between the contacts of the windings. A lot of videos have been posted on the network showing how such measurements are made. Their authors are doing everything, in principle, right. They just forget to say that the resistance parameters are different depending on the starter model.

In search of accurate indicators, you have to study the technical documentation.

If there is no access to reliable data, you will have to proceed from the fact that there should be no breakage or resistance exceeding 10 ohms.

It will not work to restore the windings on your own, and even in the field. You will probably need a new part here. But if the resistance indicators are normal, we check further.

3. Connect the multimeter probes to the power terminals of the relay. We insert and sink the core to the end. The indicators should not differ significantly from those obtained when measuring the resistance on the holding winding. Differences in readings indicate damage to the contact plates.

In the latter case, you can try to disassemble the assembly and clean the contact plates. For this, at least, the design of the part must provide for the possibility of disassembly.

DIY starter retractor repair

Self-repair requires certain skills. Getting down to business without having either the experience or the necessary tools is not worth it. Strictly speaking, installing a new part is always preferable to repairing a broken one.

But sometimes there is simply no other way out. For example, if a breakdown occurs on the road, away from spare parts stores.

If you decide to take a crucial step, you will first have to remove the dirt from the surface of the assembly using a stiff brush and a cloth soaked in kerosene, white spirit, etc.

There is more useful information here.

How to disassemble the starter retractor relay?

There is no point in opening the rolled-up case. This is a complex procedure with unpredictable results. But, if the manufacturer has provided for the possibility of opening the solenoid relay by fixing its back cover with separate screws or nuts on the power terminals, then access to the contact plates will not become a serious problem. It is enough to unscrew the fasteners and hook the cover with a knife or screwdriver.

Cleaning contacts and replacing individual parts

After removing the cover, you will be able to assess the condition of the contact plates. Carbon deposits or oxidation should be removed using sandpaper. Damaged springs, if any, can be attempted to be replaced with the correct size and performance. The selection of springs is a tricky business. It is necessary to measure not only the dimensions, but also the developed effort. To do this, without having at your disposal special equipment, will not work.

After completing the repair, we put the cover back in place, lubricate the junction with a sealant, fix it and re-check it. After making sure that all parameters are normal, we install the relay on the starter and carry out the final assembly.

Honestly speaking, such repairs will not be enough for a long time. The plates burn out over time, become thinner and are no longer able to provide reliable contact. Once again, we note that it is advisable to carry out such work only in those situations when there is no access to spare parts. In other cases, the correct decision is Replacing the starter solenoid relay for a new and known good part.

The movement of any car begins with starting the engine . If you want to understand the principles of operation of the main components of a car, we recommend starting the study with the start system. One of the most vulnerable points of this starter relay system. Almost everyone has heard about such a detail, but not many people understand how it works. Before starting a conversation about the starter relay, it is worth noting that the design of the car has two parts with this name at the same time, only the first is responsible for turning on the starter, it is usually located in the engine compartment, and the second is the starter retractor relay.

WHAT IS STARTER RELAY

So let's start with the basics. Two relays are responsible for the starter at once. The first is installed in the engine compartment. The design can have its own body or be installed in a common block.

Within the framework of this article, we will be much more interested in the second relay, which is responsible for the operation of the starter, namely the retractor. It performs the following functions:

redistributes energy between the starter and the electromagnetic relay;
feeds bendix gears;
synchronizes starter assemblies,
returns the gears to their original position after you stop the engine.

In the automotive world, this node has two names: traction and retracting. The first is most often used in specialized literature, the second is folk.

To understand why a starter retractor relay is needed, consider schematically the operation of the engine. To start the engine, the crankshaft must begin to rotate. Only then does the fuel-air mixture ignite in the combustion chamber.

Usually, the engine starting process takes place within a second. The role of the relay in it is quite simple. Thanks to him, the gear elements mesh with each other. It synchronizes the work of the starter. Also, this unit removes the bendix from the flywheel.

The main components and the principle of operation of the engine starting system

To understand the operation of the starting system, it is worth considering first the device of the car starter. The purpose of the starter is to start the engine. The starter device for all cars is identical, they differ only in size or parameters. So, the design consists of the following mandatory elements:

The electric motor plays the main role here, and the bendix and the starter relay are auxiliary elements. The electric motor includes standard elements such as a stator, a rotor, and a starter brush assembly. Bendix, although the smallest detail, plays a very important role. It is necessary to transfer rotation from the electric motor to the engine flywheel ring gear, thereby ensuring starting.

Until 2000, the bendix was located on the same shaft with the rotor, and then a new layout appeared, where the bendix began to have its own separate shaft and rotate by means of a gearbox.

Therefore, sometimes we hear such a name as a gear starter. The starter retractor relay is a more complex element and performs several functions at once:

Redistribution of electricity supplied from the battery between the electric magnet of the starter relay and the electric motor;
Synchronization of the operation of all units when starting the engine;
Feed the bendix gear until it meshes with the flywheel ring gear;
Return of the working gear after starting the engine to its original position.

The principle of operation of the starter is as follows: in order to start the car engine in operating mode, it is necessary to forcibly rotate the crankshaft until the fuel mixture in the cylinders starts to burn.

Usually it takes quite a bit of time to start a working engine. That is the task of the starter retractor relay is to keep the engagement of the bendix gear with the flywheel and rotate the crankshaft equally until the start occurs. No more and no less. If you hold it longer, then you can break the parts, and if it is less, then the engine will not start.

DIAGNOSTICS AND REPAIR

CHECKING THE SYSTEM

Before you check the retractor relay, you need to test the starter itself. This check will allow you to understand what exactly is not working in the system. Insert the key into the ignition and turn it.

Attention! If at the same time characteristic clicks are heard, then everything is in order with the starter, but the relay is out of order.

Next, you need to open the hood and get to the starter. You must make sure that this is the case. To do this, bridge the two contacts. They are made in the form of two copper bolts. These structural elements are mounted on the back of the solenoid relay (on the case). If, after the manipulations you have done, the mechanism spins, then the problem is in the retractor relay.

In some cars, reaching the starter is very difficult, and sometimes even impossible. In this case, you will have to partially disassemble the system and dismantle the device itself.

Attention! Be extremely careful when checking. The mechanism rotates at high speed. If you are not careful, you can get hurt.

After removing the starter, lay it down on the ground. Place the battery nearby. Connect the leads of the two devices. In this case, the mass of the battery is closed to the mass of the starter.

When the wires are connected, the starter solenoid relay will operate. There will be a fairly loud click at first. If the actuation of the mechanism is too slow, be sure to check the contacts. This situation may be caused by the fact that they are burnt.

Checking the retractor relay on the removed starter

It is more convenient to check the performance of the relay on the removed starter. But before dismantling, several operations are done to identify the problem:

They check the reliability of the fastening of the terminals, the condition of the battery, remove oxides from the contacts and terminals of the battery.
Make sure that the wiring is securely fastened to the starter with nuts. If corrosion is noticeable, the contacts are cleaned with fine emery paper.
Check the status of the starter relay.

The starter is removed after disconnecting the wires suitable for it and unscrewing the mounting bolts. In some vehicles, this operation will take a lot of effort, since the unit may be located in a poorly accessible engine compartment.

After removing the starter, it is cleaned of dirt, the oxidized contacts are treated with sandpaper, and the check is started in the following order:

The unit is placed next to the battery, from the terminals of which there are wires with "crocodiles".
The positive and negative terminals are connected to the corresponding contacts on the retractor.
With the free end of the negative wire, they touch the starter housing and observe the result:

If there is a distinct click in the relay, then it is working;
If the retractor does not show "signs of life", it needs to be replaced or repaired.

WHAT FAILURES IN THE RELAY RELAY

Usually, the whole problem lies precisely in burnt contacts or their sticking, other malfunctions can be ranked as:

burnout of the coil,
mechanical damage,
natural wear and tear of parts.

In the latter case, the starter solenoid relay will need to be replaced. There are a number of signs that, with a high degree of probability, say that the problem is in this particular node, they include:

After starting the engine, the starter motor continues to operate. This is evidenced by a well-audible buzzing sound.
When turning the key in the lock, a clear clicking sound is heard. This means that the main system starts, but the starter does not work.
When you turn the key, the starter is idling. In this case, the engine remains inactive.

These symptoms most likely indicate that the malfunction is related to the starter retractor relay.

HOW TO CONNECT

Many motorists are afraid that after they repair the solenoid relay, they will not be able to connect it. In reality, the wiring diagram is pretty simple. Moreover, you compose it yourself.

To carry out reverse dismantling, you must first mark the disconnected terminals. This will allow you to connect everything correctly after the repair is complete. Also, before installing the relay, you need to clean the contacts. For degreasing, use a modern fluid available from automotive stores.

REPAIR

It should be admitted that starter solenoid relays are very similar on machines of the same series. The most striking in this context is the following car line:

Vaz 2109,
Vaz 2106,
Vaz 2110.

In principle, all starter solenoid relays are of the same design. Accordingly, they have a similar repair process. Basically, the differences lie in the fastening systems. Also, cores can have different designs. But the general scheme is very similar.

So, in order to repair the starter retractor relay, you first need to dismantle and disassemble it. Here, in fact, lies the main problem. In most vehicles, these units are non-separable. All that remains for the driver in this case is to carry out a replacement.

It is very important to maintain a clear sequence of repairs. Otherwise, you risk not only causing damage to the part or other systems, but also injury. The process itself consists of the following stages:

Disconnect battery power.
Clean the part from dust and dirt. Otherwise, foreign particles can get inside the assembly, causing damage to it.

Unscrew the nut of the brush assembly.
Remove the contact from the bolt.
Unscrew the tie screws. It is they who connect the relay to the mass of the car.
Unscrew the ends of the nuts.
Divide the device in half.
Replace the core.
Reassemble.

Start the device before putting it back in the car. Reinstallation should only be carried out after preliminary testing. When everything is assembled, do a few test runs. Only then enter the track.

WHAT ELSE CAN BREAK

Most of the damage to the solenoid relay is associated with the burnout of certain of its elements. Most often, electromagnetic circuits burn out. The windings and contacts are also susceptible to similar degradation. In some cases, metal fatigue is the cause of the failure.

However, ignition problems are not always related to the starter or retractor relay. If the repair did not give the desired results, check the electrical circuit. Also see how much charge the battery has.

Each car owner can check and repair the retractor relay. The process itself does not take much time, and its complexity in most cases depends on how conveniently the starter is located.