Why don't the gears turn on when the engine is running? Our list of faults. Why do not the speeds turn on when the engine is running I start the car, the box stops switching

As a result of the constant stress that the manual transmission and clutch are subjected to, most drivers are increasingly beginning to notice gear shifting problems.

However, not everyone has time to react to them in a timely manner, because often the only sign of a manual transmission malfunction is the incomplete engagement of the gears or the implementation of their start with a slight stretch. Therefore, in order to avoid serious problems in the future, one should very carefully monitor such manifestations and promptly eliminate the cause that provoked their appearance. It is better to immediately seek help from a car service, for example, if you are from St. Petersburg, then here http://spb-avtoremont.ru/p264438239-remont-kpp-mkpp.html.

Searching for a reason

The easiest way to determine why the gears are not included in the manual transmission are in two ways:

1. Stop the engine and turn on the speed - If nothing happens, then the problem is most likely due to faulty synchronizers or gears. To determine the culprit for the breakdown, the manual transmission will have to be disassembled.

2. Start the engine and engage the speed - If it does not work, then the problem is in the clutch. Most often, this malfunction is provoked by such problems as insufficient lubrication, incomplete clutch engagement and a lack of fluid in the hydraulic drive system. In this case, the last malfunction is typical only for vehicles equipped with a hydraulic clutch.

In any case, in order to determine the true cause, you will have to remove the manual transmission and inspect the condition in which the clutch basket is located, if it is satisfactory, check the volume of fluid that is in the expansion tank and, if there is a shortage of it, top up.

Insufficient lubrication

Despite the fact that when there is a lack of lubricant in the manual transmission, the gears still turn on, it can be quite difficult to switch them, since the gears cannot fully engage with each other. In addition, insufficient lubrication can damage even synchronizers over time.

Therefore, when you hear an unpleasant metal grinding noise when shifting gears, check the oil level in the manual transmission and inspect it for drips. If present, replace all gaskets and seals. It will not be superfluous to change at the same time the oil seals located in the shank and on the input shaft.

Major problems and their elimination

If the previous test methods did not give anything and the malfunction that provoked the problems with shifting gears on the manual transmission is not determined, then you need to inspect the condition in which the clutch basket is located. The main impetus for this should be the fact that the gears stop switching on exactly when the engine is running.

Throw-out bearing - In normal condition, its movement on the input shaft should be free of obstacles. In the event that it starts to jam in some places and it moves along them with difficulty, then the reason is in it. However, do not worry, as it is solved by simply replacing the problematic part.

Disc Wear - To determine how much disc is worn, disassemble the basket and visually assess its condition. The friction linings must be free of carbon deposits and the rivets under the disc must not be visible. In the event that one of these problems is present, the disk will need to be replaced. Most likely, after this procedure, the problem with the inclusion of gears will be resolved.

Malfunction of the basket itself - With long-term use of the car, the so-called "petals" that make up the basket wear out a lot, as a result of which they become very susceptible to high temperatures and can no longer cope with the removal of the pressure plate. Often, to determine the state in which the petals are located, a simple, visual inspection is enough - its petals will be deformed or traces of overheating will be reflected on them. In this case, the basket will have to be replaced.

Power steering - If there is not enough fluid in the system or there is air in it, the transmissions to the manual transmission may not turn on periodically. For diagnosis, inspect the reservoir and inspect all drive elements, including hoses, tubes and release cylinder. All identified areas with leaks will need to be eliminated and the system pumped.

Clutch assembly

If you had to disassemble the clutch in order to detect a problem with shifting gears, be extremely careful when reassembling it. Tighten all threaded connections with the utmost care. And be sure to center the clutch before installing the manual transmission. For this purpose, you can use both a special tool and the input shaft, which will have to be removed from the old gearbox.

When gears are poorly shifted, driving becomes not only unpleasant, but also unsafe. Let's look at the main reasons why gear changes are poor or not at all. And since the automatic transmission and manual transmission are too different, we will consider them separately.

If you have a mechanic

Poor gear shifting on a car with manual transmission for three reasons. The first of these is a clutch malfunction when it does not completely disengage (drive). The first sign of this malfunction is that the reverse gear is engaged with a characteristic bang. The rear one reacts to this anomaly more noticeably than other gears, because it is the only one not equipped with a synchronizer.

The second reason is a defect in the gear selection mechanism of the gearbox. And, finally, the third - excessive wear of gearbox synchronizers.

There are also several clutch malfunctions in which manual transmission gears are poorly shifted:

Excessive wear of the synchronizers is predominantly in those gears that are turned on more often: these are usually the first, second and third. The rear is not included in this list, since it does not have a synchronizer. When you have poor gear changes, and you assume that the reason for this is the wear of the synchronizers, firstly, you should have difficulties with this only on the go. Secondly, it is better to switch in this case if you use double squeeze.

For those who do not know what a double squeeze is. To upshift: depress the clutch, engage neutral, release and depress the clutch again, engage the gear.

Backlash in the so-called "helicopter" is one of the reasons for the fuzzy engagement of gears

To switch to a lower one: double squeezing must be combined with a gas release, that is, when the clutch pedal is released, and the gearbox is in neutral, you need to press and release the accelerator pedal. So they switch gears to an auto box which does not have synchronizers. If the box will shift more easily using a double release, then worn synchronizers are most likely to blame for poor gear shifting.

If the gears are poorly shifted when the car is stationary with the engine turned off, the malfunction may only be in the gear selection mechanism of the gearbox.

Look for a breakdown in it or check if it is correctly adjusted. Don't even think about the clutch and synchromesh.

For those who have a machine gun

If your car has an automatic transmission. It will not hurt you to know the modes in which your machine can operate:

The automatic gearbox has a still more button on the mode switch lever with the inscription O / D OFF. When it is turned on, the inclusion prohibition occurs, which increases the gears of the analogue of the 5th gear of the manual transmission. That is, if your automatic machine has 4 gears for moving forward, then for a more dynamic acceleration it will use only three lower gears.

The automatic transmission is much more complicated than those encountered with manual transmissions about a gearbox malfunction, and the chances of repairing it in your garage are small. But despite this, you still need to know something about her at least in order not to harm her by improper operation.

The automatic gearbox is much more demanding on the accuracy of maintaining the oil level in it than the mechanics. Both too low and excessively high oil levels are very harmful to it. Both can lead to serious damage. In both cases, oil foaming occurs. With a lack of oil due to the fact that the oil pump, together with the oil, begins to take in air. If there is an excess of oil, it is foamed by rotating parts, which in this case are immersed in it. Foamed oil compresses better and has low thermal conductivity. Therefore, if you operate the machine with such oil, the pressure in its control systems will be low. Which will lead to slipping of the clutches and their intense wear. The impaired thermal conductivity will not allow all excess heat to be removed. That, together with low pressure, will cause the machine to fail and require serious repairs.

Foamed oil has a larger volume. Therefore, checking the oil will indicate a level that is too high. If you find that the oil level has risen for no apparent reason, you need to turn off the engine and let the oil settle. Then check the level again. If it turns out to be low, you need to safely top up the required porium and repeat the check.

The oil level in the vending machine is checked using a dipstick or through a control hole closed with a plug.

How to check the oil level with a dipstick

• Warm up the oil to operating temperature (for this you need to drive about 15 km).

Select a flat horizontal area for measurement. Put the car on the handbrake.

• Move the lever to select the operating mode of the box through all positions, lingering in each from 3 to 5 seconds, until the machine is triggered.
• Leave the mode selector in position P, and in this position determine the oil level.
• Without turning off the engine, remove the oil dipstick, wipe it dry and reinsert it into the tube until it stops, then pull it out and read the readings. The upper limit of traces of oil on a dry dipstick should be at the mark marked hot or in an area with intersecting notches.

If the level is insufficient, you can add oil through the tube into which the dipstick is inserted. Do not forget that the automatic transmission is afraid of dirt, so only top up with clean new oil. Wipe the dipstick with a clean cloth that will not drop threads.

When checking the oil level, pay attention to its appearance. A dark liquid with a burning smell indicates that not everything is in order in the unit. First, try changing the oil and filter in the automatic transmission. The milky color of ATF indicates that coolant has entered the box. The coolant softens and inflates the material from which the clutches are made. Do not hesitate to change such oil, having previously eliminated the cause of the antifreeze getting into the box, otherwise the machine will suffer significant damage. Coolant can enter the box due to a leak in the oil section in the radiator of the cooling system. In this case, the emulsion will be observed both in the box and in the engine cooling system.

The most common machine malfunctions

• The car does not drive forward and reverse movement is normal. Possible reasons: wear of the forward clutch friction clutch, a defect in the piston of this clutch, breakage of the rings of the same clutch, jamming of the valve body valves.
• There is no reverse speed, there are only 1 and 2 forward. Probable reasons: wear of the reverse clutch clutches, malfunction of the piston of this clutch, damage to the spline connection in the drum housing, another defect of this drum.
• No back, forward everything works. Reasons: wear of the brake band, malfunction of the piston of this band or breakage of its rod, defects in the braking package.
• There is no forward or backward movement when any mode is turned on, there is a push to switch, but the car stands still. Reasons: malfunction of the torque converter, lack of oil, clogged filter.
• Only reverse, 1st and 2nd gears are included. Reasons: jamming of the valve in the valve body, low oil level, general wear of pistons and clutches of gear clutches that do not turn on.

The gearbox is a rather complex unit that requires proper attention and diagnostics. Today, the problem of poor gear shifting is relevant for many vehicles, so it is important to understand how the unit is diagnosed and repaired. From this material you will find out why the first gear turns on poorly, what is the reason for this and how you can turn on the first speed if necessary.

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What are the reasons for the interruptions?

The gearbox is not only one of the most difficult, but also one of the most basic units in any vehicle. The causes of malfunctions due to which the first gear engages tightly can be associated with both improper use of the unit and driving on poor road surfaces. In any case, if you do not know why the speed turns on poorly, then this indicates a certain breakdown of the unit itself.

It should be noted that a similar problem often occurs with older cars that are bought hand-held, and not in car dealerships. Therefore, if you have purchased a used car, then you should not even be surprised at such a problem, especially since such malfunctions will appear in any car sooner or later. In addition, if you try to turn on the speed and this happens, but very badly and with great difficulty, then the unit selector may eventually stop responding to any commands from the motorist altogether. Naturally, not every driver will be able to constantly start driving from second speed, so it is important to understand the reasons why the first gear is hardly engaged.

Below is a list of breakdowns, as a result of which the gear lever will not shift gears well:

1. The problem is - the mechanism turns on poorly, the shutdown is incomplete. Often such a problem occurs in domestically produced cars and in most cases it is due to the fact that the mechanical clutch cable flies from the attachment point. In fact, it is not particularly difficult to identify this - if the cable breaks, the pedal will be sunk into the floor and will not move. This, as you understand, is directly related to the operation of the clutch, and not the gearbox.
2. There was a breakdown in the operation of the control rod of the gearshift mechanism. Then not only the first, but also the rear, as well as the rest of the speeds will turn on badly.
3. Breakdown of the jet thrust of the unit.
4. For unknown reasons, the fastening bolts located on the garnish or the selector of the gearbox mode selection rod have loosened. The problem is solved by tightening the bolts.
5. The gear change drive was incorrectly adjusted.
6. Plastic elements in the transmission control drive are out of order or have worked out their service life.
7. The rocker was poorly adjusted. As you know, the purpose of the rocker is very important in the connection between the gearbox and the gear selector, so incorrect adjustment may well be the cause of the problem. In addition, plastic bushings could wear out or fail on this link.
8. Failure of synchronizers can also be called one of the most common failures in gearboxes. Unit synchronizers are brass bushings required for easier switching between unit modes. Since brass itself is a soft material, it can wear out and wear during the operation of the vehicle. To correctly diagnose the state of the synchronizers, you should pay attention to the operation of the gearbox - if a grinding or unpleasant sound appears when shifting gears, then the problem is in them. Moreover, this sound will appear constantly when you try to turn on the first gear. In the event that only sound appears, but the gearbox selector turns on in one mode or another without problems, then a malfunction will arise soon.
9. Failure of the gearbox bearings. Such a malfunction does not occur so often, one might even say that it is rare, but any motorist can still encounter it. If you own a car with a manual transmission, then the bearings could jam in it, as a result of which the shaft stops rotating along the trajectory. In such cases, it is difficult to engage the first gear, at other speeds the problem usually does not appear.
10. The box shaft is out of order. The shaft of the unit is usually not subject to operational wear or very heavy loads, but the malfunction can be caused by a factory defect. In the event that even not very big mistakes were made in production, then the shaft may well break. If this is the case, then the problem of turning on the first speed may only be the beginning of a big breakdown that you have to face. As practice shows, often in such cases the unit itself breaks down completely.
11. The problem of clutch breakage is relevant for owners of cars with an automatic transmission. There are times when, with incorrect functioning of the clutches, when the first speed is turned on, a jolt occurs, but then everything works fine. The malfunction is solved only by replacing the clutches.

You, as a motorist, need to understand that a breakdown of the unit shaft or bearings cannot be diagnosed at home. Only experience and equipment will help to understand this reason. Accordingly, if problems arise with the inclusion of the first speed, it is advisable to immediately contact a professional.

How to turn on the first gear without harm to the box?

Often, inexperienced motorists, turning on the gearbox selector from second speed to first, may notice how some difficulties appear, in particular, how hard it is to engage the first gear. In such cases, the novice driver often tries to engage the speed using force, simply by driving the selector into the desired position. In no case should this be done, since such actions can be fraught.

Actually, noticing such a flaw in the manual transmission, motorists have developed a rule - the first speed should be turned on only in order to get under way. In all other cases, the second, third and fourth gears are included. Especially often experienced motorists use this rule, but we want to say from ourselves that this is, in principle, wrong.

Any auto instructor will tell you that the choice of speed should be based on the driving speed and engine speed. In principle, it is even possible to park normally only at first speed. If you try to park at second speed, you will have to maneuver very quickly, and in such cases a strong load will affect the grip. Actually, as well as on the gearbox unit itself. Accordingly, you must learn one simple rule for yourself - you can turn on the first gear while driving only if the speed is low and the crankshaft speed is low.

Gearbox theory

Every motorist who understands the structure of the gearbox knows that all modern cars with a manual transmission are equipped with synchronizers. This element is one of the important components of the unit. The purpose of the synchronizers is to equalize the revolutions of all gearbox shafts. In addition, these elements are responsible for painless for the box and shockless gear shifting.

It should be noted that immediately when the driver pushes the gearbox selector when switching from second gear to first, you can feel an obstacle. This obstacle prevents the activation of the first speed and it is this obstacle that is called the synchronizer. In the event that the gearbox is relatively new or a synchronizer has recently been installed on it, then you will not feel problems with the transition from an increased speed to a reduced one. The inclusion of the first gear will be carried out without any obstacles.

But if your vehicle has already passed more than a hundred thousand kilometers, then this will directly affect the functioning of some elements of the unit. In particular, in the first place, synchronizers will stop working normally - they simply will not be able to perform the tasks assigned to them initially. Then the motorist is forced to perform various "tricks" that the grandfathers told us about - these are all kinds of peregaski with and so on.

When performing such tricks, the rebase will perform the function of an equalizer of the gears mated to each other. Thus, if the difference in angular speeds is high, and the synchronizers are worn out enough, the driver will have to accelerate even more. In the event that the angular speeds are the same, the motorist will immediately understand this - the gearbox selector will be able to switch from high speed to low speed without any problems. Thus, making efforts will no longer be advisable.

Methods for engaging first gear

So, if the modes are poorly turned on in your vehicle and you have already figured out the reasons and the theory, then let's move on to the most important thing - the methods of engaging the first gear. The simplest method in this case would be to activate the first gear while driving a car. You need to effortlessly push the implement selector forward and do this until the corresponding synchronizer comes into operation. However, it should be noted that this method is relevant for most cars and some trucks.

It should be borne in mind that in most old trucks this will not work, since the device of the unit itself does not allow this, since they simply do not have synchronizers. In addition, you need to take into account that this method of activating the first speed is hardly relevant if the synchronizer on your vehicle has already worked out its service life. It will simply not be possible.

Then the motorist will only have to wait a while until the car practically stops to turn on the required speed. Or, using force, turn on the gearshift lever. In principle, neither the first nor the second method can be called the optimal way out in such a problem. As practice shows, it will be best to use the same old-fashioned method with re-gasification.

How to do this - you can find out below:

1. So, driving at second speed, start depressing the clutch pedal.
2. While pressing the pedal, move the gearbox selector to neutral. By doing this, you can deactivate the clutch pedal can be deactivated.
3. Then, when the pedal is fully lowered, you need to slightly add gas with your right foot while pressing the pedal. In this case, pay attention to the tachometer, which shows the number of revolutions. You need to bring the revolutions up to two and a half thousand per minute, that is, the arrow should be on the number 2500. Here, pay attention to its one important nuance - the greater the difference in the angular speeds of the mating gears of the box, the higher you need to raise the number of revolutions. That is, an indicator of 2,500 is the minimum, add gas if necessary.
4. Then depress the clutch pedal again.
5. Further, the gearbox selector should be moved to the activation position of the initial mode, that is, the first speed. Here, also pay attention to the fact that if the selector does not enter correctly into the required position, then most likely you just gave a little gas. If so, then repeat the steps, only add more gas.
6. Ultimately, you need to release the clutch pedal smoothly, not abruptly. If you did everything correctly, then the lever of the box will turn into the required position without any problems, jolts and extraneous sounds.

If you did not succeed in doing this, then do not be discouraged - the first time rarely anyone succeeds in performing a double rebase. By repeating the procedure several times, you will be able to remember everything you need to do to correctly engage the first speed. Actually, the same methods allow you to activate the first gear when driving in third, for example, if in an emergency you need to brake with the motor. In this case, the higher the driving speed, the longer you will have to wait for the synchronizers to help you. Or you need to step more on the gas.

But do not regard the double rebase as a way out of the situation. This method can be called a temporary solution, but the unit will still have to be repaired. Since replacing synchronizers is a rather complicated process, we recommend that you seek professional help. If you nevertheless decide to perform this procedure yourself, then the instructions provided below will come in handy.

More than 50% of passenger cars produced in the world are equipped with an automatic transmission, this is a fact, therefore, the issue of making the right decision in the event of an automatic transmission malfunction is very relevant today.

This article will help you understand how an automatic transmission works and what to do if a breakdown occurs.

How automatic transmission works in a car - principles of operation

In modern automatic transmissions, all mechanical manipulations of gear shifting are done for you by the hydraulics, i.e. - fluid for automatic transmissions. All "mental" work (when and where to switch) is performed by the control and monitoring unit.

To understand how this happens, it is important to know that The automatic transmission consists of three main parts:

1. Torque converter.
2. Planetary gearbox.
3. Hydraulic control systems.

Torque converter (GT), by its purpose, is similar to the clutch mechanism on a manual transmission - with the help of it, the torque from the engine is transmitted to the rest of the transmission. However, structurally, these are completely different units. Unlike a mechanical clutch, a hydraulic turbine transmits (and increases) torque through fluid.

Planetary gearbox (PR) receives torque from the gas turbine engine and transmits it to the drive wheels, while decreasing or increasing, depending on the driving conditions of the vehicle.

Hydraulic control system (SGU) opens or closes gear shift valves using solenoids. Due to this, the transmission fluid acts on certain brakes and clutches in the PR. There is a blocking or unblocking of certain gears. Thus, the desired gear is shifted.

In earlier models of automatic transmission, the “decision” on gear shifting was also responsible for hydraulic system , i.e. - the transmission was fully hydraulic. In modern units, the voltage to the solenoids is supplied by the control and monitoring unit, which receives data on the vehicle speed, engine speed, automatic transmission temperature and other indicators.

Based on this data, a decision is made to switch to a particular gear. Such automatic transmissions are usually called electronic .

Why the automatic transmission does not turn on and what to do - frequent questions from motorists about automatic transmission malfunctions and expert advice

During the operation of the car, various automatic transmission problems may occur. However, some faults are more common than others. They will be discussed below.

• Why the automatic transmission does not turn on 1st, 3rd, 4th gear or speed - what to do?

So, let's figure it out, in order, with each transmission.

1. If the automatic transmission of your car does not turn on the 1st speed , and the car starts sluggish movement from the second, most likely, the switching solenoid or the wire going to it from the control unit (CU) is out of order. This problem is solved by replacing the defective part.
2. Otherwise, the car starts off normally, but does not switch to 3rd gear. The reverse gear works normally. The reason is most likely in the stuck valve, which is responsible for switching to this gear. To fix it, you need to disassemble the valve mechanism and clean the valve.
3. The situation is different with 4th gear. If the automatic transmission does not turn on the 4th speed at the required speed and engine speed, first of all, you need to check if the Overdrive mode is turned off. In this case, the “O / D OFF” indicator on the dashboard usually lights up. Another reason is clogging of the valve, which is responsible for the transition to Overdrive. Cleaning the valve will correct the situation. However, there is more to come. Until the fluid in the automatic transmission is heated to the required temperature, there will also be no switching to 4th gear. Therefore, if everything in the automatic transmission is working properly, and there is no 4th speed, you should check the transmission fluid temperature sensor and the wire going to it.

• Why the automatic transmission does not turn on the reverse gear or turns on with a bump - causes and remedies

In the event that the reverse speed is turned on with a tangible impact, the most likely reason for this behavior of the automatic transmission is friction disc wear ... Friction discs are one of the most important elements of a planetary gearbox. Their wear indicates that the automatic transmission needs a major overhaul.

If the reverse gear does not engage at all, it is a matter of the brake band or related parts - the brake band piston, piston cuffs or piston rod. In all cases, the problem is solved by replacing the defective part.

• Why the parking lot does not turn on at the automatic transmission - how to fix the malfunction?

It also happens that the car cannot be put into parking mode. Because of this, you cannot remove the key from the ignition female. And if it can be removed, then it will not be possible to start the engine after that.

To determine the cause of the malfunction, first of all - check if the brake lights on your car. No matter how naive this advice may sound, but it is in the electrical circuit of the brake lights that the selector lever lock is included (you switch this lever before driving), which is triggered when you press the brake pedal. If this blocker does not work, it will not work either to remove it from the parking lot, to put the car into this mode.

In this case, you need to check for a malfunction.

• Brake pedal.
• Electrical wiring from the pedal to the blocker.
• The blocker itself.

Another reason - cable malfunction connecting the lever with the selector on the automatic transmission. In the simplest case, it is enough to adjust the cable. Otherwise, it needs to be replaced.

Another source of malfunction could be strong mechanical impact (for example, shock) on the automatic transmission pallet ... In this case, the parking mechanism may simply fail. Repair of such a breakdown will consist in replacing the faulty part of the parking mechanism, or the entire mechanism as a whole.

• Automatic transmission drive does not turn on - what is the reason and what to do?

1. Drive mode (“D” mark on the selector lever) - the main driving mode. If it, for some reason, does not work, or it works - but malfunctions, this jeopardizes both the automatic transmission and the car's engine. Because the driving modes in low gears ("L", "2") are not intended for everyday use.
2. If the car does not drive when the drive is on - this means that the friction discs responsible for movement in this mode have worn out, or the cuffs of the clutch piston have torn. Usually, in the event of such a breakdown, 1st and 2nd gears work normally. The obvious remedy is to replace the friction discs and torn cuffs.

As you can see, at first glance, the solutions to the problems are quite simple ... If you are well versed in technology and have all the necessary tools for repair.

For the automatic transmission to work without breakdowns for a long time, it is necessary.

But, in any case, it is better to entrust your faithful assistant to professionals, so that, after trying to repair yourself, you do not look with surprise at the "extra" parts and, with regret, at the idle car.

We have already talked quite a lot about the automatic transmission, there is a lot of different information, all because it is a complex unit that requires certain operating conditions. However, many of my readers ask me to tell you about the mechanical version of the transmission (manual transmission), why might it not work? What are the main causes of malfunctions, how to diagnose them and, if possible, eliminate them yourself? Let's figure it out, as usual at the end there will be a video version of the article, so we read and watch ...

Any transmission experiences heavy loads during operation, this is the second most “loaded” unit after the engine, which operates in difficult conditions. Therefore, there is a high probability of any malfunction. However, manual transmissions have their own, and differ from their automatic counterpart, which is why they should be known and, if possible, should be promptly eliminated.

Why will they still not give up the manual transmission

Now, probably, many newcomers thought - "oh yes" mechanics "but who needs it, but now everyone drives an automatic transmission, and in general her days are numbered." This is not entirely true, because this option has a lot of fans and real advantages, I will not list everything, after all, we already thought -, but I will list some of the most significant:

• Price. As a rule, this option is 40 - 80,000 rubles cheaper than the automatic counterpart
• Fuel consumption, while not one automatic option has come close to it (but already quite a bit)
• Strength
• Simplicity of design

• Withstands heavy loads (digests large)
• Temperature range (difficult to overheat)

That is why this option is now used on many trucks, heavy SUVs, and many passenger cars. In general, it is premature to write off this unit, and now an option is being developed without a clutch pedal, that is, something like a semiautomatic transmission is switched manually, but there are no pedals.

The main causes of malfunctions

The mechanics, like the automatic, are designed to transfer and change the torque from the power unit to the wheels, and this must be done comfortably and dynamically. That is, the car should accelerate as quickly as possible and do it without any "jerks" of the extreme engine speed (so that it does not "growl like a victim") and, if possible, have sufficient tractive effort. This is exactly what this unit is designed to do, because the engine does not work linearly and this needs to be compensated somehow, in this case it is obtained by gears. But here there is a person (driver) who must manually change gears so as not to ruin the box and the engine corny (in fact, this is the main difference).

Therefore, many of these malfunctions (in my opinion) are associated precisely with driving and improper operation, so:

• Gears are not included. Either one or all
• Difficult to switch gears on a mechanical box
• "Knocking out speeds". It manifests itself like this - eat, throw off the gas (or vice versa, give more), and the transmission flies out with a crunch (sometimes without)
• A loud crunch is heard when switching on-switching
• At idle, when the car is stationary - the engine is running, there is also a crunch from the box
• There are oil smudges under the car, after a detailed examination it can be seen that oil is oozing, either from the gaskets or from the oil seals

All this can occur for various reasons, for example, due to wear of the main gears, synchronizers, shafts, bearings. Due to the loss of oil, rupture of the oil seals and the main gaskets, now in more detail:

• Wear of main parts from high mileage

• Poor quality gear oils or wrong tolerances
• Poor quality of spare parts during repair

• Complete lack of technical inspection
• Illiterate maintenance of a mechanical transmission
• Highly loaded driving style. It can be both sporty, as well as driving with prolonged slippage (off-road), or just aggressive.

Despite all these malfunctions, the manual transmission is VERY reliable! And if you give her a minimum of time, even if she is examined once every six months or a year, she will walk for a long time.

About the clutch and its drive

Often, many confuse the malfunction of the box and attachments. By this term I mean the clutch and its drive (in one case it is hydraulic, in the other it is mechanical). As usual, they are located outside the mechanical box, but they directly affect its operation.

The clutch itself consists of a disc and a basket, over time, the disc wears out, more precisely, its friction linings wear out and it can slip, it is corny not to stop. THIS leads to poor gear shifting, slippage (when the engine growls and the car does not develop power).

If the basket is damaged, it has special "petals", which are affected by the release bearing, then, as a rule, they break and you simply cannot turn on the gear! None at all.

If the clutch pedal has become "light", not the same as it was before, and again there are no inclusions, then this may be the case in the drive. Either the cable broke, or fluid leaked out (in the case of a classic VAZ).

Therefore, if no "speed" is turned on at all, or there is slipping (there is no development of speed), then most likely you need to look at the clutch, its drive or the basket.

However, this is a problem of attachments, now we will go through the main faults and how to fix them, I spread the table.

Troubleshooting table and their elimination

Manual transmission malfunction	Cause and elimination
One or all gears are not included	Wear, breakage of synchronizers (broken teeth), broken clutch basket petals, a problem with a fork or release bearing, broken shaft or gears, malfunctioning rods to manual transmission (they may need to be adjusted with the replacement of plastic bushings), low oil level, or the wrong transmission fluid ( sometimes water got in)
Noise on neutral when the motor is running	Bearing wear (drive gear or drive shaft), low lubrication level, dirty (worn out oil), dirt or water ingress, it happens that a malfunction in the shaft itself (for example, overheated initially)
Noise when gears are engaged (for all) - the motor is running	The same reasons as for neutral, the bearing of the output shaft or the driven gear collapsed, the clutch housing and the engine are not coaxial
Noise in one gear engaged, engine running	The synchronizer is broken, the teeth of this gear are worn out
Crunch when switching	Faulty clutch (basket, disc), the drive does not work (the cable broke, fluid leaked out), wear of the synchronizer, gear failure, sometimes the box unscrews itself (you need to check the fastening)
Gears are disengaged by themselves (either when accelerating or when resetting)	Problem with synchronizers, breakage of gears, damaged gear forks, destruction of shaft bearings, manual transmission unscrewed, damage to shift rods
Vibration from manual transmission with the engine running	The power unit itself works unevenly, the manual transmission is unscrewed, the attachments to the body are broken, the supports are destroyed
Oil leak from a mechanical box	The oil drain plug passes, the oil seals pass the O-rings, the excessive oil level inside, the manual transmission crankcase is punctured (cracks appeared as a result of impacts)

These are not all, but the most common reasons, of course, to eliminate them you need qualified help, you yourself are unlikely to do anything, if only because removing the mechanical box, especially on the front drive, is not so easy. The thing is that the main malfunctions lie inside and in order to identify them, you in any case need to remove your gearbox.

How to extend service life

The durability of a manual transmission depends on how you use and maintain it. Now there are a lot of myths that there is no need to follow the mechanics, and that it works for the entire life of the car, this is not entirely true.

• The most important thing is smooth gear shifting, with full depressing of the clutch pedal. It is NOT ALLOWED that the pedal is depressed only halfway or not depressed at all! This leads to premature wear of gears, synchronizers.

• After the desired shift has occurred, you need to release the clutch pedal, you do not need to hold it! For there is an increased wear of the clutch disc

• It is advisable to move in the gear that corresponds to a given speed, this saves both the engine and the gearbox from unnecessary loads, the best 4th gear, it is also called "direct", in this connection the minimum number of gears and all two shafts are occupied (in bypassing the intermediate). This reduces wear on the manual transmission
• A low gear should be engaged when the speed is reduced, as well as an upshift when accelerating. This reduces the load on the motor and the transmission itself.
• There is a "first" one that did not turn on right away (there was a crunch) this happens even on new cars, you should not push the lever all the way! It is necessary to release the lever and the clutch pedal, and repeat the procedure after a few seconds (sometimes you need to press the clutch pedal twice)
• Do not include reverse gear when driving forward. Of course, now all modern cars have "foolproof protection" (you simply won't turn it on), but on old cars such a switch could immediately lead to a breakdown

Separately, I would like to say about transmission fluids in manual transmissions, as I wrote above, now many are sure that there is no need to look inside the lubricant, and that it is filled for the entire service life this is not the case.