There are several methods of checking equipment for operating condition. Some test conditions imply the mandatory installation of devices on the car, others can be performed without complex and sometimes impossible installation processes. Today we are going to talk about how to test the starter and make sure that the device is working well enough. A starter check is sometimes needed if you suspect a problem with a unit already installed on your car. Otherwise, you need to check the equipment when you buy a new starter in a store or a used one for disassembly.
In each case, it is worth using different verification methods, which we will talk about today. As simple as possible, you can get information about the starter, which is already under the hood of the car. But the driver of a car with an already faulty engine start unit does not always suspect about future problems. Sometimes a pre-determined problem costs significantly less in repair, which can reduce the overall cost of vehicle operation.
Determine the malfunctions of the starter installed on the car
It often happens that car owners sin on the starter. This is due to the fact that in the engine starting system, this mechanism is most susceptible to various troubles and breakdowns. If problems with starting occur, they often immediately blame the starter, without even carrying out serious checks.
Nevertheless, the starter is far from the only unit that can break down and cause trouble, so you need to pay attention to the specific indicators of breakdowns of this mechanism. The most common indicators that the starter has broken down are as follows:
- during an attempt to start the engine in the extreme position of the key, the starter gives one powerful click and does not start the power unit;
- when trying to start, a series of clicks occurs in the area where the starter is located, which look like sparks from a burning coil;
- the starter turns, but the worn out metal gears do not allow it to normally catch on the engine system;
- the node does not react at all to the turn of the ignition key (however, this problem can also be associated with the electrical system);
- after an unsuccessful engine attempt, light smoke formed under the hood - the starter winding is on;
- the retractor relay has ceased to function, the starter turns exclusively idle or does not retract the gear from the engine after starting.
A number of starter malfunctions are fatal. Sometimes a broken bendix will cause damaged engine gears to come into contact with the starter motor. Such a malfunction will be quite expensive for the buyer, therefore it is better to avoid such troubles and regularly monitor the condition of the starter and other starting systems of the power unit.
If you decide to replace the starter after a breakdown occurs, do not rush to such a conclusion. Buying an original unit will be too expensive, and an analog part in this case will not serve for a long time and reliably. In this case, it is better to carry out a quality repair using original spare parts and resume the normal operation of the starter. It only needs to be changed if there is already an analog starter under the hood.
How to choose a starter in a store - buying new equipment
Despite the fact that you will be buying new equipment from a car store, it is best to check it to be sure that the unit is in good working order. Some stores give a guarantee that they will replace all problematic parts without any problems, but this does not always happen. Even under warranty, a defective starter will not always be replaced, citing your fault in its breakdown.
When buying any equipment in a store or at an official service center, you should check it and personally examine the kit. If you blindly trust the craftsmen, sitting in a convenient cafe near the service, be prepared for unpleasant surprises after you pick up the car from repair. Make sure of the following starter kit:
- directly the starter itself without traces of preliminary use on the body;
- separately or assembled a solenoid relay, which will also be installed new, and not from your old starter;
- documents that confirm the factory origin, serial numbers coincide with the numbers stamped on the case;
- the documents contain the date of sale, the seller's stamp, as well as an indication of the warranty period;
- there is also a check in the set of documents that records the amount you paid in full;
- The warranty card from the manufacturer can often be supplemented by another warranty from the seller.
Such criteria allows you to get the maximum quality of the purchased mechanism. With the help of fairly simple checks that can be carried out in a matter of seconds, you will receive a guaranteed quality of the purchased movement. Even if in the future you have problems with the starter, you can easily use the terms of the warranty service.
If you buy a mechanism at a service where it will be installed, it is advisable to be present during all repair work. A frequent practice at many unscrupulous services is the replacement of spare parts during work. They will show you an excellent factory starter, but they will supply you with some cheap Chinese analogue. In this case, it is better to be vigilant.
Purchase of a starter for disassembly - select and check used equipment
Used machinery often presents a lot more problems than new equipment, so it is better to give preference to options from specialized auto stores. Sometimes a new starter is too expensive, and a Chinese one is better off choosing an original used car from a car disassembly.
In this situation, the main task of the buyer is to find good equipment that has the required characteristics. First you need to choose a starter model that fully suits your car. It is best to choose a node with a car of the same model and the same year of manufacture. You can use spare parts catalogs for selection. You can check the starter as follows:
- connect two wires with terminals at both ends to the car battery;
- connect the terminals to the starter (just do not mix up the polarity, it is better to consult a specialist);
- after connection, the starter will start to turn at a sufficiently high speed;
- your task is to monitor the quality and uniformity of the starter shaft rotation;
- you can check the retractor relay using a special device or after installation on the machine;
- the rest of the starter functions should be checked immediately after the installation of the equipment.
On a good disassembly, you will be allowed to install and check the starter to get the necessary working conditions. But before that, connect the power to the mechanism and watch it work. If within thirty seconds of rotation you notice malfunctions and irregularities in the operation of the starter, refuse to buy it and choose another device.
After installation on the vehicle, check the other functions of the equipment. Check how quickly the starter starts the engine, compare this figure with the work of the old mechanism. The more carefully the selection of your new starter is made, the less problems there will be with this mechanism in the future. We offer you to watch a video about checking a starter without using a professional stand:
Summing up
Today, every car owner has at least four options for troubleshooting a starter problem. You can repair an old mechanism, buy a new one in a store, buy a used starter for disassembly, or order equipment from an official service. Each option has its pros and cons, in some cases you get good quality, in others - quite tangible cost savings.
If you notice certain problems with the starter, be sure to update or repair this unit. Otherwise, you will get high risks of sudden machine breakdown and will not be able to get the expected reliability from your vehicle. If you had any difficulties with the choice or purchase of a starter, tell us about them in the comments to the post.
You will need
- - a set of cap and socket wrenches;
- - flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
- - new bushing;
- - fine-grained sandpaper.
Instructions
Prepare your vehicle for repairs. Remove the negative terminal from the battery to eliminate the possibility of a short circuit. When repairing electrical equipment, always try to de-energize the vehicle. If the VAZ-2109 is a carburetor car, then you do not need to remove any nodes. But if the nine is injector, then you will have to remove the air filter, since it will interfere with the dismantling of the starter. You can remove the crankcase protection in order to remove the starter from the bottom later.
Unscrew the power cable that fits to the starter solenoid relay. This is done with a key of 13. After that, remove the second wire, thin, which also goes to the retracting one. A thin wire supplies power to the relay coil when the ignition key is turned. Now remove the three nuts that secure the starter to the clutch block. That's it, you can remove the starter and repair it.
Unscrew the nut with a 13 key, which secures the wire from the starter to the solenoid relay. Only then can you use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the bolts that secure the retractor relay to the starter housing. Set the relay aside along with the core. Now you need to disassemble the starter itself in order to change the bushing on the back cover. On some models of starters, bushings were also installed on the front cover, which is part of the clutch block. But for some time now they began to use starters with a planetary gear, so the need for a second sleeve simply disappeared by itself.
Remove the two bolts that secure the protective cap that covers the motor shaft. On the shaft you will see a retainer that must be removed for further disassembly. Now unscrew the two nuts from the studs and remove the rear cover. Now you can start removing the old bushing and installing a new one. Use a punch or a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter to knock out the old bushing. Carefully so as not to damage the lid body. Otherwise, you will have to change the entire starter.
Press in the new bushing using the same tube or old bushing. The second option is preferable, since the bushing is made on the basis of soft metal, so it will absorb impact, so the back cover will not be damaged. Before pressing in a new sleeve with fine-grained emery paper, lightly sand the seat, get rid of dirt on the surface of the cover. This will only improve contact and make the electric starter easier to operate.
Related Videos
Sources:
www.kakprosto.ru
How To Check A Starter With Your Hands - 7 Starter Checks
The starter is responsible for starting the car's engine and if it refuses to work, then it becomes quite difficult to start the car. As a rule, it fails not instantly, but gradually, and by paying attention to its behavior, you can calculate the malfunction by the signs. If this was not possible, then you will have to check the starter, both with improvised means and using a multimeter.
A quick check of the solenoid relay or starter motor can be done without removing it from the vehicle or by removing it from under the hood. For such a test, you only need a charged battery and a pair of power wires. And to check the armature, brushes or starter winding, you will have to disassemble and ring with a multitester.
In this article, you will learn:
How to check the starter battery
Let's start the engine start diagnostics with the first question that many car owners ask - how to check the starter on the battery and what will such a check show?
Such manipulation allows you to determine the correct functioning of the starter, since when it is on the engine, apart from clicks (if they are heard, of course), little can be said about the operation of the device. Therefore, by closing the terminals with the leads on the retractor and the starter housing, you can determine the presence of a malfunction in the retractor relay or directly in the starter itself, by seeing whether the relay is activated and whether the starter motor is turning.
Checking if the starter turns
Checking the starter in 3 easy steps
A battery can be used to test the starter's ability to extend the gear and twist (this is how it should work when installed in a car).
For the test, you need to securely fix the part, connect the “-” terminal to the case, and “+” - to the upper terminal of the relay and its turn-on contact. With proper operation, the bendix should be removed and the gear rotated by the motor.
How to check each of the units of the engine starting device separately, we will consider visually and in more detail.
How to check a solenoid relay
To check the starter retractor relay, you need to connect the positive terminal of the battery to it, and the negative terminal to the device case. When the relay is working properly, the bendix gear will move out with a characteristic click.
Checking the solenoid relay with a battery
Checking the retraction starter
The gear may not extend due to:
- burnt contacts of the retractor;
- jammed anchor;
- burnout of the starter or relay winding.
How to check the starter brushes
The brushes can be tested in several ways, the easiest of which is to test with a 12 volt light bulb. To do this, connect one terminal of the light bulb to the brush holder, and the other to the body, if it lights up, then the brushes need to be replaced, since there are breakdowns in the protection.
Checking the starter brushes for a short to ground
The second way to check the brushes - with a multimeter - can be done on a disassembled starter. The challenge will be to check for short to ground (should not short). To check with an ohmmeter, the resistance between the main plate and the brush holder is measured - the resistance should tend to infinity.
Also, when dismantling the brush assembly, be sure to conduct a visual inspection of the brushes, collector, bushings, winding and armature. After all, when the bushings are used up, there can be a drop in current at start-up and unstable operation of the motor, and a damaged or burnt collector will simply "eat up" the brushes. Broken bushings, in addition to contributing to the misalignment of the armature and uneven wear of the brushes, increase the risk of a turn-to-turn closure of the winding.
How to check bendix
The operation of the starter bendix is also checked quite simply. You need to clamp the freewheel body in a vice (through a soft gasket so as not to damage) and try to scroll it back and forth, it should not rotate in both directions. Turns - the malfunction lies in the overrunning clutch, because when you try to turn in the other direction, it should lock. Also, the bendix may not engage, and the starter will spin idle if it simply lies down or the teeth are eaten. Gear damage is determined by visual inspection, but the occurrence can only be determined by completely disassembling everything and cleaning the gearbox from dirt, dried grease inside the mechanism.
Control lamp for checking the starter winding
The starter stator winding can be checked with a flaw detector or a 220 V light bulb. The principle of such a check will be similar to checking brushes. We connect a light bulb up to 100 W in series between the winding and the stator case. We attach one wire to the case, the second to the winding terminal (from the beginning to one, then to the other) - it lights up, which means there is a breakdown. There is no such control - we take an ohmmeter and measure the resistance - it should be about 10 kOhm.
The starter rotor winding is checked in exactly the same way - we turn on the control into the 220V network and apply one terminal to the collector plate, and the other to the core - it lights up, which means that the winding needs to be rewound or the rotor completely replaced.
How to check the starter armature
To check the starter armature, you need to supply 12V voltage from the battery directly to the starter, bypassing the relay. If he twists, then everything is in order with him, if not, then there are either problems with him or with the brushes. Silent, not spinning - you need to resort to disassembly for further visual diagnostics and checking with a multimeter (in ohmmeter mode).
Checking the starter armature with the battery
Checking the anchor on the PPJ
The main problems with the anchor:
- breakdown of the winding on the case (checked with a multimeter);
- wiring of the collector leads (can be seen during a detailed inspection);
- turn-to-turn closure of the winding (checked only with a special PPYa device).
Burnt out lamellas due to poor contact between the cock and the shank
Very often, a winding closure can be determined by a detailed visual inspection:
- shavings and other conductive particles between collector lamellas;
- burnt out lamellas due to contact between the winding shank and the cockerel.
Also, very often, uneven collector wear leads to brush wear and starter failure. For example: protrusion of insulation in the gap between the lamellas, due to the displacement of the collector relative to the shaft axis.
The depth between the grooves of the armature collector must be at least 0.5 mm.
Often, an ordinary car owner does not have the opportunity to check with a control light or a flaw detector, therefore the most accessible methods for checking a starter are checking on a battery and a multimeter. We will check the brushes and windings of the starter for a short circuit, in the megger or continuity modes, and the relay windings for a small resistance.
Checking the starter with a multimeter
Disassembly and inspection of all parts of the starter
So, how to check the starter with a multimeter - you just need to disassemble it and measure the resistance between:
- brushes and plate;
- winding and housing;
- collector plates and armature core;
- starter housing and stator winding;
- the ignition off contact and a permanent plus, it is the shunt bolt for connecting the excitation windings of the starter motor (the state of the retractor winding of the relay is checked). If it is working properly, it should be 1-1.5 Ohm;
- the ignition connection terminal and the traction relay housing (the holding winding of the solenoid relay is checked). Should be 2-2.5 ohms.
There must be no conductivity between the housing and the winding, the rotor shaft and the commutator, the ignition contact and the positive contact of the relay, between the two windings.
It is worth noting that the resistance of the armature windings is scanty and cannot be determined with an ordinary multimeter, so you can only ring the windings for an open circuit (each collector lamella should ring with all the others) or check the voltage drop (all should be the same) on adjacent lamellas when applied to them direct current (about 1A).
Finally, we present for you a pivot table, which contains information on what methods can be used to check this or that part of the starter.
I hope this information helped you learn how to check the starter with your own hands in a garage, having only a battery or a multimeter at your disposal. As you can see, checking the starter for performance may not require professional equipment or knowledge of wiring diagrams. You only need basic skills in using an ohmmeter and a tester with a control lamp. But for professional repairs, a PPI is also required - an anchor checking device.
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Ask in the comments. We will definitely answer!
etlib.ru
How to check or ring the starter - we check on the car and in the removed state
Hello dear motorists! Be that as it may, but the work started must be completed. When the auto starter does not spin, and the battery is charged, there is no choice but to ring the starter.
Checking a starter is not at all difficult, however, not all car owners know how to check a starter in a garage. Starter check includes several main stages:
How to check if the starter is working?
Checking the starter at the stand After removing the starter, gently clamp it in a vise. The main thing here is not to overdo it - one wrong move and the device will be damaged. Prepare some low resistance wires.
This can be, for example, the wires for charging a battery. Connect the wires to the lower terminal and the starter body, and connect the wire that goes from the body to the "plus" and "minus" of the battery. Thus, you check its performance - if the starter is working properly, it will start to rotate. You will most likely have to replace the traction relay.
Checking the starter elements: windings and brushes
How to check if the starter is working properly if it does not rotate? In this case, you need to check the brushes and starter windings.
Use a 12-volt 2-wire bulb to test the brushes. Connect the wires to the brush holder and to ground. If the light comes on, the integrity of the brushes is broken, and, accordingly, the brushes need to be replaced.
Using the same light bulb, check the starter windings by connecting one wire to the starter body and the other to the winding terminal. Do not forget that before checking the removed starter in this way, it must be connected to the battery. Use a special stand to check for interturn short circuit of the armature.
If during the check you found a malfunction, simply replace the failed parts and elements, and the starter's operation will return to normal.
Bendix does not turn - continue checking the starter
If the starter turns on, but the engine does not crank, get ready to solve problems with the bendix, which will most likely need to be replaced. Some craftsmen repair bendixes, with the exception of such a malfunction as a crack in its case.
But, if you have a non-exclusive starter, then it will be easier to buy a bendix in the store and change it. Nevertheless, we should know the reasons for the slipping of the bendix:
- dry or thickened grease;
- the springs are loose;
- there was a decrease in the diameter of the rollers (the so-called diametral wear);
- or the rollers are worn out on one side and rubbed flat edges appear on them.
Before going to the store for a new bendix, remove and take the old one with you so as not to purchase an absolutely unnecessary part.
How to check if the starter is working when it is spinning very hard and the headlights are dim? First of all, pay attention to what voltage the battery gives out.
If it turns out to be normal, check the condition of all contacts. If this check fails to identify the problem, disassemble the starter and replace the bushings to eliminate excessive friction between parts.
It happens that the starter turns slowly, but the bulbs are bright enough. This may indicate a failure of the traction relay. It must be replaced if, when the "plus" touches the bottom terminal of the traction relay, it suddenly starts spinning easily.
If it spins as slowly as before, it's the starter. The most common problem is the bad adhesion of the brushes to the collector, which causes them to spark strongly, and the collector is very dirty.
If you are still not confident in your abilities and do not know how to test a starter, a video from the masters will undoubtedly come to your aid. But remember that a video tutorial alone may not be enough.
Since, when disassembling the starter, it is important to pay attention to the smell. If, before you check the serviceability of the starter, disassembling it, you smell a burning smell, you may not even continue further checking, but feel free to go to buy a new starter.
Well, that's probably all. Now you know how to check the operation of a starter in a garage and you can do it yourself.
cartore.ru
How to check a starter winding: diagnose a winding short circuit
How to check the starter winding A starting device called a starter is one of the fundamental components of the machine. If the starter stops functioning properly, the problem is reflected in the starting of the engine. In this article, you will learn how to check the starter winding and other elements, as well as what to do.
The main symptoms of a starter malfunction
- 1 The main symptoms of a starter malfunction
- 2 Testing the winding
Experts write that the main prerequisites for a breakdown of the starting device are in the AK, the retractor relay and in the winding. The latter is simply melted, which leads to a short circuit.
| When the starter is turned on, the armature does not rotate, the traction relay does not work | The rechargeable battery is defective or completely discharged | |
| Pole terminals of the storage battery and cable lugs are strongly oxidized; loose ends | ||
| Turn-to-turn short circuit in the retraction winding of the traction relay, short circuit to ground or open circuit | Replace the traction relay | |
| Open in the power circuit of the starter traction relay | Check the wires and their connections in the circuit between the plugs "50" of the starter and the ignition switch | |
| Contacts "30" and "50" of the ignition switch do not close | Replace the ignition switch connector | |
| Jamming of the traction relay armature | Remove the relay, check the ease of movement of the armature | |
| When the starter is turned on, the armature does not rotate, or rotates too slowly, the traction relay is activated | ||
| The rechargeable battery is defective or discharged | Charge the battery or replace | |
| Pole terminals of the storage battery and cable lugs are oxidized; loose ends | Clean the terminals and cable lugs, tighten and lubricate with Vaseline | |
| The fastening of the ends of the wire connecting the power unit with the body or with the terminal "minus" of the battery is loose | Tighten the cable lug fasteners | |
| The contact bolts of the traction relay are oxidized or the nuts securing the lugs of the wires on the contact bolts are loosened | Strip the contact bolts, tighten the wire retaining nuts | |
| Burning of the collector, hanging of brushes or their wear | Clean manifold, replace brushes | |
| Open or short circuit in the stator or armature windings | Replace stator or armature | |
| Closing the brush holder "positive" brush to ground | Repair short or replace the manifold side cover | |
| When the starter is turned on, the traction relay is repeatedly activated and deactivated | ||
| Cause of malfunction | Elimination method | |
| The battery is discharged | Recharge the battery | |
| Large voltage drop in the power supply circuit of the traction relay due to strong oxidation of the wire ends | Check the wires and their connections in the circuit from the battery to the plug "50" of the starter | |
| Open or short circuit in the holding winding of the traction relay | Replace the traction relay |
Testing the winding
What threatens the winding closure The principle of testing a winding is no different from conventional checks on electrical components. If a light bulb is selected as a measuring device, then it should be connected in series between the body of the starting device and the winding. In other words, one terminal of the meter is fixed to the case, and the other - to the winding terminal.
The indicator output that is connected to the winding must be sequentially connected first to one, and then to the other terminal of the winding. The indicator should not light up, otherwise it will indicate a breakdown.
You can also check the condition of the starter winding using a multimeter. The device must measure the resistance of the winding - it should be within 10 kOhm. A multimeter is often used to check the winding. You just need to set the device to the megohmmeter or dial mode.
As you know, the starting device has two windings - stator and rotor. Above, it was described how to check the winding on the stator. As for testing the rotor winding, it is carried out as follows: the test lamp is connected to a 220 V electrical outlet with one end, and the other output is applied to the collector plate. You also need to consistently attach the output of the test lamp to the core. If the indicator lights up, winding rewinding is inevitable. Most likely, a complete replacement of the rotor will also be required.
Thus, diagnostics of faults in both windings is carried out using various devices, which, when tested, make it possible to determine short-circuits and breaks. Before checking, it is important to remove all external defects by cleaning the surfaces with fine sandpaper. You can also use a grinder for stripping, but carefully.
In the process of testing the windings of the starting device, it is also important to check the starter armature, to which you need to supply 12 V current from the battery directly, bypassing the relay. We can assume that everything is in order with the anchor of the device if it starts to twist after such a voltage supply. On the contrary, if the starter does not react in any way to the voltage supply, then there is a problem with the armature or brushes. Disassembling the starting device will help determine the malfunction specifically.
As a rule, the main difficulties with the armature are associated with the breakdown of the winding to the case (can be determined by checking the resistance - with an ohmmeter), unsoldering the collector terminals (it can be seen during an external examination) and interturn closure.
Introducing a video on how to check the starter anchor
The winding closure can also be judged by external signs. For example, if you can see burnt out lamellas, shavings and other particles inside the winding, this clearly indicates a short circuit.
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The starter is an essential attribute of any vehicle. If it malfunctions, the car can only be started from a tug and then if the transport is equipped with a mechanical gearbox. The starter forcibly spins the engine, bringing its speed to the required for independent operation of the internal combustion engine.
Starter (from the English word start- start) is a mandatory unit for starting the engine, which forcibly rotates the crankshaft flywheel to the revolutions necessary for independent operation.
It is a 4-pole DC motor that draws energy from a battery. A starter is necessary to start the engine of any vehicle and receives power from the battery when the key is turned in the ignition lock.
The main components of the starter:
- body - a piece of steel in the shape of a cylinder, in which the winding and cores are located;
- anchor - has the shape of an axis and is made of high-strength steel, collector plates and a winding are fixed in it;
- a retractor relay that supplies power to the starter when the key is turned in the ignition lock and ejects the bendix;
- brushes and brush holders - supply the required voltage to the armature collector assembly, increasing the motor power when the internal combustion engine is spinning;
- drive gear and bendix (freewheel).
Despite the huge range of electric motors, there are only two types of them, which differ in the presence of a gearbox.
The most modern version of the electromagnetic motor is geared, the main advantages of which include the possibility of its operation even with a low battery charge and the presence of permanent magnets, which reduce problems with the winding.
The main disadvantages of such a unit are the low strength of the gear and the impossibility of repair, which in the event of a breakdown leads to an expensive purchase.
Starters, which do not contain a gearbox in their design, act directly on the rotating gear.
The main advantages of this type of starter are:
- simultaneous engagement of the flywheel with a gear, which allows the ICE to start as quickly as possible;
- strength and long-term operation;
- the ability to self-repair breakdowns and the availability of necessary spare parts in almost any auto shop;
- practically does not depend on the influence of electric current, which reduces the possibility of breakdowns.
The disadvantages of gearless starters include:
- difficulties with starting in severe frosts;
- significant weight of the unit;
- high energy consumption, leading in some cases (in the presence of malfunctions in the starting system or other nodes) to a strong and inability to start the internal combustion engine without recharging;
- rather high prices for spare parts.
The main symptoms of a starter malfunction
Despite the fact that the starter is a fairly reliable device, it can also break. Some breakdowns may have symptoms identical to other malfunctions, but nevertheless there are common malfunctions in the operation of an electric motor.
The main symptoms of malfunctions in the starter:
The solenoid relay does not click (does not work) and the armature does not rotate.
- Discharged battery (full or partial) or its failure;
- Oxidation of battery terminals and tips connected to it;
- The terminals or lugs connected both to the starter itself and to the battery are gone;
- Lack of contact on the terminal bolts, provoked by a break in the wires connecting the ignition switch and the starter;
- Short circuit, breakage or breakdown to ground of the solenoid relay windings.
When the electric motor is started and the solenoid relay is working, the armature spins slowly or does not spin at all.
- The contact on the terminal bolts of the solenoid relay is broken;
- High wear of brushes or their jamming;
- Burning or overheating of collector plates;
- Breakdown of the stator winding caused by insulation failure or turn-to-turn short circuit;
- Violation of the insulating layer of the positive brush holder;
- Closure of collector plates, provoked by insulation failure;
When the starter is started, the armature rotates, but the crankshaft does not spin.
- Overrunning clutch slippage;
- Mechanical damage to the freewheel device (buffer spring, liner ring);
- Departure of the starter drive plug or its damage;
- Difficulty moving the drive along the cut on the anchor shaft.
After starting the internal combustion engine, the starter continues to work.
- Jammed drive yoke;
- Damage to the ignition switch spring;
- Jamming of the contacts of the retractor relay or starter drive on the anchor shaft;
- Damage or stretching of the springs returning the solenoid relay or freewheel;
- Jamming of the solenoid relay;
- Skewing of the electromagnetic motor caused by unscrewing its fasteners to the internal combustion engine.
Increased noise during the operation of the starter.
- Increased wear of individual parts of the armature (necks and bushings);
- Violation of the integrity of the starter housing at the location of the drive;
- Mechanical damage in the teeth of the flywheel or bendix;
- Insufficiently twisted motor mounts;
- Contact of the armature with the pole during rotation due to the weakened fastening of the latter inside the unit.
Checking the starter with a battery
Before contacting a car service, buying a new unit or spare parts for it, you must try to independently check its performance. With the proper approach, it is possible to self-identify problems.
First of all, if there is a suspicion of malfunctioning of the starting device, it is necessary to check the contacts on the terminals of the battery and the starter, their screwing and the presence of oxidation, the charge of the battery, since in many cases the above factors are the problem in starting the internal combustion engine.
A simple way to check that the electrical network is working is to close the terminal bolts of the electric motor with a screwdriver; before this procedure, you must put the car in neutral speed (or move the selector lever to parking or neutral mode).
If the starter starts the engine, you should look for a malfunction in the electrical circuit. Otherwise, remove the unit by disconnecting all fasteners from the engine and removing the terminals and other wires.
How to check Bendix
After removing the electric motor, it is necessary to inspect the bendix (gear at the very end), if there is increased wear of the teeth, cracks in it, it should be replaced.
The bendix should only rotate in one direction, otherwise it will have to be replaced. By connecting the unit to the battery, the serviceability of the bendix is unlikely to be diagnosed, since it can spin, but with insufficient force to start the internal combustion engine.
How to check the Solenoid relay
When the ignition key is turned, a click should be heard, indicating that the armature is retracted and the bendix is engaged.
Before checking the serviceability of the starter, it is necessary to firmly fasten it (either in a vice, having previously wrapped it with a thick layer of cloth, or with the help of a strong assistant who will hold the unit), since a very strong jerk can occur when it is started.
It is necessary to connect the plus from the battery to the plus on the starter, and the minus from the battery to the unit body. If the knot is working properly, then there should be a quick and sharp click and the bendix will come out and start spinning.
If there is no click or movement of the freewheel, the retractor relay must be replaced. When power is disconnected from the battery, the bendix should retract.
How to check the Anchor and Brushes
To check the brushes and anchors, you will need a multimeter or a 12-volt light bulb. Checking with a light bulb consists in connecting its contacts to the ground and the brush holder with the starter connected to the battery. If the light comes on, the brushes are highly worn.
When checking with a multimeter, an identical connection of the contacts is carried out, only the results of measuring the resistance should tend to infinity, otherwise there is a short to ground.
You can check the armature only by disassembling the electric motor. In addition to carrying out a visual inspection for the presence of oxidation, traces of a short circuit, increased wear, a special PPYa device (anchor checking device) will be required to check the armature - to check the turn-to-turn closure.
The difficulty of diagnosing anchor malfunctions, as well as its repair, will require contacting specialized specialists, but in order to avoid unnecessary costs, it is necessary to check all other parts of the unit.
How to check the starter winding
You will need a multimeter or light bulb to check the motor winding. The control lamp wires are connected by the winding terminal and the starter housing. If the light is on, then there is a breakdown in the winding.
The winding resistance is checked with the same connection, for which the multimeter must be switched to the appropriate mode. The average reading of a good winding will be 10kΩ.
The starter is the most important element of the car, and its malfunctions will immediately make themselves felt either by the inability to start the car or by difficulties with it.
This node is very reliable, but problems happen to it too. Some of them are easy to determine on your own, and to identify others, you will need special equipment, which is available only to narrow-profile specialists.
Starter, and today we'll talk about how to check it for faults and repair it.
If the starter fails, starting the car's engine becomes quite problematic, and in most cases even impossible. Therefore, it is advisable for car owners to know the simplest ways to check and repair an automobile starter, which can be done by hand, without contacting car service professionals.
In the photo - gear starter
Since the starter is an electromechanical product, its failure is caused by only two faults: mechanical or electrical.
To check, you will need a minimum set of tools, a list of which most motorists have. Namely:
Multimeter;
Soldering iron;
Screwdrivers (simple and Phillips);
Wrenches or sockets (most 13X14 and 17X19).
The starter check can be performed both on the engine without removing it, and on the workbench after dismantling it.
Checking on a car
The following points can be checked without removing the starter:
The presence of voltage on the power contact of the relay from the battery;
Power supply to the control contact of the relay from the ignition lock;
Reliability of the "mass" of the engine;
How much comes from the battery and how much voltage is transmitted to the starter motor when the relay is triggered when the starter is turned on from the ignition switch;
Starting revolutions (for example, the anchor is spinning slowly);
The state of heating of the stator housing and the smell of burnt bakelite, which is used to process the windings;
The serviceability of the electric motor can be checked by supplying 12V from the battery bypassing the relay to the starter terminal (the second relay terminal going to the starter). If the engine is spinning, then everything is in order.
Checking on removed product
After dismantling the starter, its elements are checked, such as:
Stator winding. Using a multimeter for a turn-to-turn or short circuit, or an open circuit, as well as traces of possible rubbing of the armature about the lamella (pole) of the stator (for example, with severe wear of the armature bushings) or loosening of the poles from the case.
In the absence of a flaw detector, you can check the stator winding using a 220V light bulb (up to 100W). A light bulb is connected in series between the stator housing and the winding. One wire is fed to the body, and the second, in stages, to the winding terminals. If the light comes on, it will "say" that there is a breakdown in the circuit of some winding.
Using a multimeter, the resistance between the case and the winding is checked - there should be no conductivity.
Armature winding. Similar to checking the stator, plus the condition of the collector plates for wear, desoldering.
The winding is checked in the same way as the stator winding. A control with a lamp is connected to a 220 V network and one end is fed to the collector plate, the second to the armature core. If the lamp comes on, it will indicate that the winding needs to be rewound or the rotor needs to be replaced. Breakdown of the winding to the case is detected using a multimeter. Collector pinouts are identified by visual inspection.
On a working anchor, there must be a depth of at least 0.5 mm between the grooves of the collector plates.
Anchor bushings. Clearance between armature shaft and bushings.
Brush assembly. The condition of the brushes, springs and the freedom of movement of the brushes in the brush holders.
The resistance between the brush holder and the main plate is checked, and the resistance should go to infinity. Depending on the design, the brushes can be fixed to the body or soldered. In the latter case, a soldering iron is required.
The factory makes a spot welded connection, so you just need to cut the wire from the old brush and solder the wire from the new one.
One-way clutch (bendix) and gear. The clutch should only turn in one direction, in the other direction only together with the armature shaft. The gear should not be chipped or worn out.
To check, the overrunning clutch (its body) is clamped through soft material into a vice. Next, we try to spin the bendix gear back and forth, it should not rotate in both directions.
We check the bendix - it rotates or not.
Solenoid relay. Windings for open or short circuit (provided that the relay is disassembled). Also the state of the core return spring.
Checking the retractor relay
For testing, positive voltage is supplied from the battery, and the negative voltage of the battery is applied to the mass of the product. If the relay is good, the drive gear will pop out with a clear click. The impossibility of extending the gear will "speak" of burnt out contacts of the relay, jamming of the armature, breakage or burnout of the relay coil.
Bendix fork. The integrity of the fork itself and the wear of its edges where they engage the bypass clutch ring.
Reducer gears (reducer starter). The integrity of the outer and inner gears.
Starter repair
Stator. If faults are detected in the stator winding (insulation breakdown, open circuit), either the pole windings are repaired, or the stator is replaced. For repair, it is necessary to unscrew the fasteners of the poles to the body of the case.
If necessary, replace the old insulation, where the varnished tape has proven itself more reliable than the varnished cotton tape.
In a gear starter, the poles are made of permanent magnets, which are attached to the body with glue or in some other way. Their reliability is checked. To restore magnets (if they fall off), it is recommended to use composite glue, as it is more reliable.
Anchor. If problems are identified with the winding of the armature or collector plates, they are restored or the armature is replaced.
Bushings. In most cases, the bushings are replaced with their subsequent reaming for the shaft diameter.
Brush assembly. The brushes are measured for their height, freedom of movement in the brush holders. Worn out brushes are replaced with new ones.
Bendix. If any malfunction is found, the bypass clutch must be replaced.
Solenoid relay. In cases where the relay is collapsible, then it is disassembled and cleaned or the power contacts are changed. If the return spring of the relay core breaks down, it is replaced. When it is not collapsible, the relay assembly changes.
Drive fork. Any fork wear requires replacement;
Gears of a reducer. In the event of a malfunction, the worn gears are replaced, or their entire set is assembled.
In cases where a crack is found in the front cover of the starter (rarely, but it happens), then it is replaced.
Finally
As you can see, almost all starter repair work can be done with your own hands, saving your time for a trip to the service, as well as your own finances.
With proper use and timely maintenance of the starter, its resource can be about 200 thousand kilometers, therefore, for long-term operation, we recommend that you periodically check its condition.
