Stabilizer bushings: how and when to change. How to change stabilizer bushings on different car models? What are the stabilizer bushings responsible for?

The bushing is considered to be one of the most important structural elements of a stabilizer. There are two types of them - spherical and rubber bushings. The design of the first is somewhat similar to the structure of a ball joint. Like every part of the machine, the stabilizer bush must be replaced in the event of a malfunction, otherwise the controllability and movement of the machine will significantly deteriorate. If the stabilizer bush is out of order, noise may appear in the suspension, especially at high speeds or when driving over an obstacle. It is these noises that indicate a problem with the suspension. To determine if the stabilizer bushings need replacing, try to diagnose the suspensions regularly.

The process of replacing the rear or front stabilizer bush is straightforward and consists of three steps:

1. Removing the clamp mounting bolts.
2. Retracting the stabilizer to the side. The procedure under consideration will make it possible to pay attention to the differences in the stabilizer struts and avoid incorrect installation of the parts in question.
3. Removing the old stabilizer bushings and installing new ones in their place.

The procedure under consideration can be carried out independently, but you can also use the services of specialists from a car service. Thanks to the new stabilizer bushings, the ride will be more comfortable, and obstacles on the road will be overcome much easier. In addition, new bushings can reduce the likelihood of rapid wear of the struts.

If you are unsure of how to change stabilizer bushings, the following information will be extremely helpful.

List of required tools:

• To loosen the subframe bolt, you need a 24 wrench.
• For the stabilizer bracket bolts, a 13 wrench.
• Keys 15 and 17.
• Key 10 for removing the self-tapping screws for the motor protection.
• Two stabilizer bushings.
• Two 20 metal clips to be used to mount on the stabilizer.
• WD-40.
• Graphite grease.
• Screw jack.
• A piece of pipe with a diameter of 15 millimeters and a length of places. The element in question will be used as a lever.
• Head 27 for interfacing between subframe and body.

Replacing the stabilizer bushings - step by step:

1. Secure the machine at a standstill.
2. Remove the wheels. In the right wheel arch, remove the rear engine protection shield, for this you need to use a 10 key and unscrew the two self-tapping screws.
3. Extend WD-40 - stabilizer clamp bolts on the right and left, as well as attaching the stabilizer bar to AMMO.
4. Use the open end of the 17 wrench to find the grooves on the left post pin. Fix the key in the found grooves.
5. Unscrew the nut of fastening to the AMMO with the socket part of the key 15.
6. The next step is to disconnect both stabilizer struts from AMMO.
7. Place a jack under the left side of the subframe. The distance from its back should be no more than twenty centimeters. Raise the body with a jack. If you prefer a hydraulic jack, then you will need to place a metal plate under the jack support. This will prevent the thrust piece from pressing into the subframe and bending it.
8. Next, you need to use a 24 wrench to unscrew the rear subframe bolt. Using a jack, you can loosen the subframe bolt as efficiently as possible.
9. The next step involves lowering the jack. The subframe will lower one centimeter from the body.
10. Insert a piece of pipe between the subframe and the body. Press the subframe off the body and insert the head at 27 between the subframe washer and the body in a lying position. The head is best inserted using pliers to keep the fingers safe in case the subframe falls off the stop.
11. Unscrew the clamp bolts while spilling the WD-40 thread. If the process is too tight, do not put too much pressure on the bolts, loosen them a little at a time.
12. Remove the bushing clamp and then remove the old bushing.
13. Install a new bushing in the vacant space, while the cut on the bushing itself should be directed to the rear.
14. Slide the bushing into place.
15. Install her clamp on it.
16. Then tighten the clamp bolts with your fingers and tighten with a wrench. Try to wrap all items evenly.
17. In some cases, there are stabilizers with broken stops. To avoid damage, install the metal clamp behind the ring close to the plastic ring.
18. Remove the head at 27 between the subframe and the body, try not to forget about safety precautions. Bolt the subframe to the body, in this case, you do not need to use the jack.
19. Carry out similar operations in relation to the right clamp.
20. Reinstall both posts
21. Lubricate the threads with graphite grease before installing the fasteners to prevent sticking.
22. Assemble the structure in reverse order.

In general, the procedure under consideration is not as complicated as it seems, and the replacement of the bushings can be carried out independently, as well as. In this case, it is important to familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions, especially if this operation is performed by you for the first time. Also, pay special attention to the observance of safety precautions, because the procedure in question implies the presence of ambiguous points in which improper handling of the tool can lead to disastrous consequences. Be as careful as possible and strictly follow the instructions.

Video instruction - "How to replace the stabilizer bushings"

The suspension of a vehicle is one of the most important parts of the vehicle, which is subject to heavy loads and absorbs all the impacts of uneven roads. Thanks to its work, the driver can feel comfortable and not be afraid that while driving, the situation may get out of control. However, due to heavy loads, especially when driving on bad roads, which is not uncommon in the Russian Federation, its parts often fail. Broken stabilizer bushings are the most common problem. Let's take a closer look at why this happens and how the stabilizer bushings are replaced.

What are stabilizer bushings for?

The answer to the question: "Why do we need stabilizer bushings?" very simple. The main purpose of this car part is that it will affect the noise produced by the suspension when the vehicle is moving, reducing it. It is also used to attach the stabilizer to the body of your car.

A feature of this part is its elasticity. Because it is made of materials such as polyurethane or rubber, you will not hear any sound when the wheel height changes. The choice of these materials allows the stabilizer to be fixed to the body, despite the constant change in the distance between them, which occurs during bends.

Note! The shape of the stabilizer has a similar appearance for most cars, but it can be modified due to design features.

Why change stabilizer bushings?

If you do not take care of timely replacement of the stabilizer bushings, the following will occur. When entering a turn or when driving on a road with an uneven surface, the vibration of the suspension that occurs during these actions will not be damped. The fine-tuning of the stabilizer bar on the car will also deteriorate.

With such malfunctions, you can drive for quite a long time, but this will wear out the resource of your suspension and the entire car much faster. In addition, the failure of the stabilizers leads to the appearance of rather unpleasant noises.

How to identify signs of wear on stabilizer bushings?

The occurrence of the following malfunctions during vehicle operation will indicate a malfunction of the stabilizer bushings:

• the first call, when the bushing fails, will be the appearance of noise and knocking in the suspension when the car is moving. The difference from faults with shock absorbers will be that the suspension will knock not only when passing uneven surfaces, but also when entering corners with a small radius. Moreover, the road surface in this case may be in good order and not contain irregularities;
• if you do not pay attention to the knocking in the suspension and continue to operate the car, the situation will deteriorate. Suspension noise will increase and will be generated whenever the suspension position is changed. This will happen due to an increase in cracks and deformation of the stabilizer bushings;
• the next step is to make the vehicle roll heavily when making tight turns. The body will wobble strongly;
• some vehicles may experience a play in the steering wheel. This is due to their design features;
• further ignoring the situation will lead to the fact that the vehicle's handling will fall. The car may start to drive from side to side when trying to make any maneuver.

You should not bring the car to such a state, because it endangers not only your life, but also the safety of other road users.

Important! Most of the stabilizer bushings have a working life ranging from 30 to 40 thousand kilometers. Do not exceed this figure and risk your safety.

If you are unable to take the car to a service for diagnostics, you can make sure that the bushings are malfunctioning on your own. To do this, you need:

• find a flyover or pit for inspection. In this case, do not use jacks or lifts. The fact is that the check will be accompanied by a strong rocking of the car and a strong physical impact on the stabilizer. This can cause the vehicle to become unstable and jump off these devices. At best, it can result in injury, at worst, death. Therefore, to ensure maximum safety, it is recommended to use ramps and pits;
• further, a visual assessment of the condition of the rubber bands is carried out. If any cracks or tears are found, such a part must be replaced;
• then it is necessary to make a strong physical impact on the stabilizer. Pull it in different directions. Squeaks and noise accompanying this action will mean the need to replace the bushing.

How to change stabilizer bushings?

Repairing rubber bushings is cheap and can be done in service with the help of experienced technicians. This procedure shouldn't hit your budget hard. If you prefer to carry out repairs on your own or you do not have the opportunity to visit the service in the near future, then you need to follow these steps:

• drive the vehicle onto a pit or overpass. You can use a lift or jack, but these are less reliable and safe methods;
• loosen the bolts of the wheels next to which there are defective parts, and then remove them;
• the next step is to remove the nuts that secure the strut to the stabilizer. At the end of this procedure, disconnect the stand and stabilizer;
• then you should pay attention to the bracket fastening bolts. The rear ones must be loosened, and the front ones must be unscrewed;
• the next step is to remove the dirt and clean the new stabilizer bushings. Carry out this procedure carefully, because the service life of the new bushings will depend on the quality of its implementation;
• grease the bushings from the inside. To do this, you can use silicone spray or regular soap solution;
• insert new bushings in their place of attachment and bring the vehicle to its original state.

Note! Some car models, due to their design features, require removal of the crankcase protection.

The most difficult part is considered to be the process of replacing the front bushings of the vehicle. During its implementation, additional difficulties may arise due to the design features.

What causes the stabilizer bushings to fail?

The main reason due to which the wear of these parts occurs is the strong effect on them during the operation of the machine of the following factors:

• exposure to chemicals. It occurs due to the proximity to the wheels of the car. During movement, various chemical compounds enter the open parts of the bushings. The most dangerous of these are substances used in winter to remove ice on the road. They have a strong effect on the structure of the bushings, causing them to dry out and crack;
• strong mechanical impact. The quality of the roads in each region differs from each other. However, even in the most favorable areas there are many trails, the quality of which leaves much to be desired. Accordingly, the more the car is used on roads with serious damage, the faster the strength of the parts is consumed. This is due to the increase in friction that occurs when the suspension compensates for the unevenness of the roadway;
• the quality of the material from which the bushings are made. Usually even the best rubber grommets have a relatively short service life. But it is them that most manufacturers put on their cars. Therefore, when replacing old bushings with new ones, experts recommend using products made on the basis of polyurethane. These products have a significantly greater margin of safety and will serve you significantly longer.

Which cars have the most common stabilizer problems?

This type of breakdown, sooner or later, occurs on all cars. However, there are vehicles that experience these problems more often than others. These include the following vehicles:

• Lada Vesta;
• Volkswagen Polo;
• Skoda Rapid;
• Renault Megan;
• Mercedes Sprinter.

What tools may you need when replacing stabilizers yourself?

This work will not require high-tech devices from the driver. To do this, you must have the following tools:

• jack;
• extension key;
• spanner key for 10 and 13;
• ruler;
• socket heads for 13 and 14. It is desirable to be elongated;
• ratchet key.

This is the minimum required set of tools, without which you definitely cannot carry out repairs. However, you may need an additional kit. This need may arise when removing the fastening nuts. The fact is that during operation, they can stick to the part. In this case, you may need a grinder or a hacksaw for metal. Use these tools very carefully, because you can damage the stabilizer struts. If this happens, then you will need to change them too.

Conclusion

Despite the sufficient simplicity of eliminating this type of malfunction, perform all actions with utmost care. Especially in cases where a jack is involved in the process.

Any careless movement can end in failure. If possible, contact a service where they will fix your car quickly and inexpensively, without endangering your health and the condition of the vehicle.

The main task of the suspension is to provide an elastic connection between the body and the wheels. Thus, the suspension softens the jolts and jumps that occur when the vehicle is driven on uneven roads or the absence of it. The smooth running of the car is directly dependent on the suspension.

The suspension serves as a kind of shock absorber, absorbing the energy that occurs when driving over irregularities, or falling into pits and potholes. However, it does not guarantee complete softness of movement and wears out a lot with frequent movement over bumps.

Pendants are divided into the following types:

• McPherson;
• double wishbone;
• multi-link;
• adaptive;
• "De Dion";
• back dependent;
• rear semi-dependent;
• pickups and SUVs;
• trucks.

Suspension type McPherson

The McPherson suspension is one of the oldest. It was developed by the talented engineer Earl MacPherson in 1960. Consists of anti-roll bar, arm and block. Changing the camber angle is a serious disadvantage of the suspension, but it is very popular due to its availability and reliability.

Double wishbone suspension

The double wishbone suspension is one of the most advanced designs. This is a suspension with two arms of different lengths (upper short and lower long). This design allows the vehicle to remain stable on the road and ensures the durability of the tires. Each wheel takes its own obstacle independently and does not transfer the load to other wheels.

The multi-link suspension was developed not so long ago and is an even more sophisticated design. It is a set of many levers, silent blocks and hinges. All of these components are designed to absorb shock and shock while riding. The noise level from the wheels in the passenger compartment is also reduced. The suspension has separate lateral and longitudinal adjustments. The wheels are independent of each other. The design is ideal for 4WD vehicles.

The cost of a multi-link suspension remained quite high for some time, but now even golf-class drivers can afford it.

Adaptive suspension

The adaptive suspension is quite interesting in terms of design. For a long time it was primitive and weighed a lot, but now it has been greatly modernized. Due to this, it allows maximum body roll and wave swing at high speed and allows it to automatically adapt to any type of road surface. The adaptive suspension includes: adjustable anti-roll bars, active shock absorber struts, a chassis control unit and electronic sensors that detect road irregularities and other parameters.

"De Dion"

"De Dion" is named after its French creator. The main function of such a suspension is to reduce the load on the rear axle of the vehicle by separating the final drive housing. In this case, the crankcase rests on the body. This design allows you to make the suspension dependent or independent. But there are also disadvantages. During an abrupt start, the body of the car can put a lot of pressure on the rear axle.

Rear dependent suspension

The rear dependent suspension is a real classic version, as it was used on many old VAZ cars. The suspension is based on cylindrical helical springs, which are elastic elements. The rear axle beam "hangs" on springs and is fixed to the body by means of four trailing arms. The reactive transverse rod acts as a roll absorber and has a positive effect on handling. But do not expect comfort and smoothness from this suspension, since the rear axle weighs a lot.

Semi-independent rear suspension is most commonly used in all-wheel drive vehicles. Its main elements are two trailing arms, which are attached in the center to the cross member. This suspension weighs a little and does not require any special maintenance or major repairs. But such a suspension cannot be installed on rear-wheel drive cars.

Other types of pendants

The suspension of trucks is most often dependent with transverse or longitudinal springs and hydraulic shock absorbers. This design makes it possible to simplify the process of manufacturing and repairing trucks.

Anti-roll bar: design and purpose

The anti-roll bar is an indispensable suspension component. It reduces body roll when cornering, increases grip on the road surface and evenly distributes the load on the frame. It is shaped like a metal bar with curved tips. Attached on each side to the wheels of one of the axles, most often in the front (front stabilizer). Also, this structural element is attached to the car body.

Suspension diagnostics in the service center

The cost of such diagnostics varies from five hundred to a thousand rubles. Diagnostics allows you to identify suspension defects. Since this part of the car is most susceptible to wear and tear, diagnostics should be carried out promptly and in a timely manner.

You can determine that it is time to check the suspension for serviceability by an uncharacteristic knock and an increase in the braking distance of the car. Vehicle stability on the road also weakens over time. Diagnostics in service centers is carried out using high-precision equipment (backlash meter, side care tester) and provides maximum information content. After diagnostics, you will receive a special diagnostic card with the results of the work.

Special bushings are used to install the stabilizer. What is a bushing? These are elastic elements that provide the car with a smooth ride. These bushings also ensure that there is no noise or vibration from the gimbal.

The sleeve is molded from rubber or polyurethane. The shape is identical for most models. Additionally equipped with grooves that protect against mechanical stress.

Signs of wear on stabilizer bushings

There are several signs:

• the formation of a backlash of the steering wheel during turns;
• shaking of the steering wheel;
• body roll with various knocks and clicks;
• vibration and extraneous noise;
• "Wobbling" of the car to the side when driving straight;
• instability on the road.

Causes of malfunctioning bushings

Bushings most often fail due to poor road surface, the use of various reagents. Reagents used during icy conditions are no exception. Aggressive driving with hard braking and starting quickly leads to wear and tear on most vehicle structures, including the stabilizer bushings.

Low temperatures can be a serious cause of wear. The rubber of poor quality bushings will harden strongly and lose the necessary elasticity.

Finally, the biggest factor in wear and tear is time. The stabilizer bush, like most elements of the car's structure, is a spare part with an expiration date. Sooner or later, any bushing is subject to wear and requires replacement.

Before replacing the stabilizer bushings, you must carefully inspect the suspension. The suspension must be cleaned from dirt. You can visually determine the wear on the bushing: it will have patterned cracks and various abrasions. The rubber of worn out bushings loses its elasticity. A special inspection hole or lift will help you to inspect the bushings. If there are no such conveniences, use the "folk" method. Put your hands on the top of the roof of the car and rock it. Knocks and squeaks at the bottom of the case will be a signal to replace the bushings.

Some car owners are trying to extend the life of the bushings by using special lubricants. This method is not recommended, as the lubrication "collects" various road debris and dust while driving. But if you still decide to use a lubricant, then purchase a quality product that does not destroy rubber. Litol-24 and MOLYKOTE CU-7439 will suit you. These are versatile products. They can even be used to lubricate brake calipers. Bushing grease is often available in a repair kit. In some cases, you may need a crowbar.

You will need one or more jacks to replace the bushings. It is advisable to carry out the replacement at the inspection pit, where special supports may also be needed. From the tools you will need wrenches, a screwdriver and a repair kit.

Step-by-step instructions for self-replacement

The process of replacing the front and transverse stabilizer bushings is slightly different.

To replace the front stabilizer bushings, you need to follow the steps below:

1. Place the vehicle stationary above a pit or on a lift.
2. Use the tools to loosen the front wheel bolts.
3. Remove the wheels.
4. Unscrew the nuts securing the struts to the stabilizer.
5. Disconnect the struts and stabilizer.
6. Loosen the rear bolts of the bracket that frames the hub, and then remove the front bolts.
7. Thoroughly remove dirt from the places for installing new bushings.
8. Lubricate the inside of the bushings with silicone spray or soapy water. The special grease available in the repair kits may also be suitable for this.
9. Install the stabilizer bushings and reassemble all parts.

To replace the lateral stabilizer bushings, you also need to position the vehicle stationary over a pit or on a lift. After that, take a series of actions described below:

1. Place chocks under the rear wheels of the vehicle and raise the front wheels slightly.
2. Using a special open-end wrench, unscrew the nuts on the brackets in the places where they are attached to the car's lower suspension arm. Do this on both sides of the stabilizer bar. Washers-grovers under the nuts are removed manually.
3. Remove staples and remove worn bushings. To do this, bend the stabilizer bar with a crowbar and hold it with the same crowbar when removing the bushing.
4. If there are central bushings, then you will have to remove the stabilizer bar, which is attached to the two brackets. You can unscrew the nuts on them with an open-end wrench.
5. After removing the bar, clamp the bracket in a vise. Then you can remove the rod and then the bushing.
6. Replace the bushing by cleaning the installation sites from dirt and lubricating.
7. Then, as usual, reverse assembly is carried out.

The anti-roll bar is an interesting thing. Its main feature is that it is often underestimated by motorists, especially those who have recently been driving or have not seen anything cooler than a nine with leaked shock absorbers. Indeed, it can be removed and thrown away altogether - the car will still drive. True, it's bad.

What are bushings and why are they needed

The main task of the bushings is to reduce the noise of the suspension while driving and to attach the stabilizer to the car body. They are usually made from two materials: polyurethane and rubber. The parts have high elasticity and strength, which is why there are no squeaks and knocks when the height of any of the wheels changes. In addition, it is impossible to rigidly attach the stabilizer to the body, since the distance from the attachment point to the edge of the stabilizer changes during bending.

Often, various sounds arising from movement and sharp turns - squeaks, knocks, and so on, can indicate a malfunction of the bushings. This phenomenon is associated with the loss of elasticity of the sleeve, as a result of which it becomes very rigid. Also, dust or sand can accumulate under this part.

Stabilizer design features

In the field of mechanical engineering, the stabilizer appeared along with the first cars, the maximum speed of which exceeded the 20 km / h mark. Due to the large rolls that occur when turning, it became necessary to install this component. The main purpose of the stabilizer is to protect the vehicle from overturning, since during a turn the load on the outer wheels increases, and on the inner ones, on the contrary, decreases. This causes the machine to rock. The stabilizer makes it more stable on the road, preventing it from rolling over.

On a note! All car suspensions are equipped with a stabilizer, not only in the front, but also in the back. The stabilizer is not needed only if a torsion bar is installed at the rear of the car: the stabilizer functions will be assigned to the suspension itself.

The design of the stabilizer on many cars is a U-shaped metal bar made of spring steel. To attach the device to the body, special clamps and bushings are used to allow the stabilizer to rotate. For greater stability of the car and increase the elasticity of the stabilizer, bushings are used - all the shocks from various suspension elements fall on them.

Stabilizer bushings. Malfunction symptoms. Consequences.

For the best damping of vibrations and forces acting on the car body, the vast majority of suspension elements are connected by means of elastic elements. The same goes for the stabilizer. For its fastening, special bushings (rubber bands, pillows) made of durable rubber or polyurethane are used. Over time, as the vehicle is used, these bushings can begin to collapse and noticeably lose their elasticity. This results in unsatisfactory operation of the stabilizer =. More serious defects may begin to appear, which will only grow faster over time.

The first symptom, foreshadowing the replacement of the bushings, will be a slight knocking of the suspension. A similar knock can be observed with "tired" shock absorbers. Only in the case of bushings, it will be heard not only on pits and bumps, but also when entering relatively sharp turns. At the same time, the car often feels excessively wobbly and sluggish. The resulting knock will be the result of a backlash in the connecting nodes of the stabilizer levers due to worn out bushings.

If measures are not taken in time, the knocking will only intensify in the future and will begin to accompany the work of the suspension everywhere due to the increasing deformation and destruction of the bushings. Body roll and excessive play in the steering wheel may occur. It is possible to "yaw" the car not only in corners, but also in cases of braking or lane change. Most automakers advise changing the stabilizer bushings every 30-40 thousand mileage. However, in our conditions it is better to focus on the wear of the bushings. Therefore, a sudden knock and slight bounce in corners will be clear signs of an impending replacement of components.

As a popular method of checking the bushings for serviceability, it is proposed to move in the 2nd gear of the "speed bump" obliquely. There was a dull thud in the area of ​​the pedals - most likely, the Khan's bushings. You can also just crawl under the car to inspect everything yourself. A worn out bushing will please with cracks and abrasions typical of worn out and cracked rubber. These cracks are sometimes also called "daisies" by the car maker.

Also, the rubber of the bushings can simply harden and lose the necessary elasticity. If the stabilizer bushings do not work well, then just swing your hand hard up and down and to the sides of the stabilizer itself. If you feel a backlash, squeaks and knocks in the lower part of the suspension, then the bushings have become unusable.

But for the best result, it is better, of course, to drive onto an overpass, inspection pit, or use a lift. Of the tools, you only need a crowbar or a mounting blade, which you just need to rest on the bottom of the car and slightly "shake" the stabilizer, in the places where it joins the body. If you feel a noticeable backlash or a loss of elasticity is found, then it's time to think about replacing the bushings.

List of required tools

You definitely need to have the following set of tools: new bushings; to unscrew the subframe bolt, an open-end wrench of size 24 is required; keys for 17 and 15; for unscrewing screws from the motor protection - a key for 10; for fastening bolts - a key 13; clamps made of metal material for 20 - for clamping the stabilizers, since the old ones must be replaced; anti-scale and rust treatment agent - WD 40; graphite grease; jack.

Benefits of timely replacement

Every driver will be able to cope with the replacement of bushings on his car, because this process is not a super-complicated repair. You can do everything with your own hands, but if you do not have the time or desire, then it is advisable to seek help from specialists. This will help protect the anti-roll bar from premature wear.

Driving on poor-quality road surfaces will recede into the background if you have previously installed brand new bushings. And in general, the installed new bushings mean the absence of difficulties and problems while driving, as well as comfort and safety.

Replacing the stabilizer bushing "Kia"

Replacing the stabilizer bushings "Kia" provides the following algorithm: Raise the front of the car and dismantle the wheels. Find the steering shaft and make a mark (for easy further installation in the original place), remove the mounting bolt. Raise the gearbox using a jack, unscrew the rear cushion and subframe. To facilitate access to the rear cushions, four bolts are removed to secure the subframe. Jack up the front section of the subframe. Remove the fastener and treat with an oil solution to prevent the development of corrosion processes on the metal. Screw them into place only four to five turns.

This is done crosswise to provide additional security and uniform contraction of the plane. Loosen the jack until you can reach the bushing bolts. The bushing on the right side can easily be unscrewed through the engine compartment, and on the left side - from below. Insert the staples. This procedure is carried out carefully so as not to damage the collar on the steering boot. The process is repeated in reverse order. The peculiarities of the Kia Sid car are that the steering shaft has a telescopic view, and therefore it is installed at the last moment.

There are the following types of bushings:

1. Spherical (or "iron") bushing. By design, it resembles a ball joint;

2. Rubber bushing.

Today, more and more popularity is gained stabilizer bushings of polyurethane type. They are quite easy to replace, which is an important plus, and they also have good performance characteristics. Experienced drivers can safely say that these are the most convenient parts.

If there is a malfunction in the area of ​​the stabilizer bush, it must be replaced without fail. Otherwise, it can very badly affect the running and handling of the vehicle. When the bushing is deformed or cracked, some noise may appear in the area of ​​the car suspension (mainly when the car runs into an obstacle or increases speed). In principle, problems in the suspension area are determined precisely from such noises.

For, to make sure that it is necessary to replace the bushings, periodically, it is necessary to carry out a diagnosis of the suspension, after which a malfunction will be identified or prevented.

In the event that it is revealed that it is necessary to replace the stabilizer bush, you can do it yourself. Moreover, there is nothing complicated in this and the procedure is very simple. First, the bolts are unscrewed, with which the clamp is attached. The stabilizer is then pulled to the side and the old parts are removed. Well, and for the final action, a new part is very carefully installed.

It is according to this scheme replacement of both the front stabilizer and the rear... After replacing parts, driving a car will be much more pleasant and comfortable, and various road obstacles will be overcome without any difficulty. Among other things, the new elements will maximize the performance of the racks.

The car's suspension is the first to meet all the irregularities in the path of the car, taking all the blows from pits, bumps and other "pleasant" surprises with which our roads dazzle. Each suspension unit has its own specific purpose, but in the aggregate, they are all designed to dampen the shock loads that arise when the machine is moving, as well as to ensure the proper handling and stability of the vehicle when cornering or making sharp maneuvers. Parts such as the anti-roll bar bush often need to be replaced. The work can be done by hand.

A little about the car suspension

It is not difficult to guess that the level of safety and comfort on the road for both the driver and passengers is almost directly dependent on the serviceability of the suspension, as well as how well it copes with its tasks.

Each component of a car's suspension is aimed at a specific function. The levers together with the trunnions hold the wheel in the required plane, parallel allowing it to rotate freely in two different planes (the moment of entering the turn).

Shock absorbers dampen vibrations that occur during movement, thereby ensuring the smooth running of the vehicle. The springs are at the same time designed to ensure the rigidity of the suspension and the return of its components to their original condition.

The main units and components of the front suspension of the car

But there is another important detail in the suspension, which no modern car can do without. And this detail is a stabilizer. It can be easily seen if the car is driven onto a lift or placed on an inspection pit. On the front axle, among the springs, shock absorbers and other levers, a curved steel bar will be easily noticeable, which is fixed with one shoulder to the subframe, and the other to the wheel hub. The stabilizer mounts are not rigid and allow it to move along the axis in one plane.

In the design of the suspension, the stabilizer appeared at the dawn of the automotive industry, when speeds began to reach 20 km / h and higher. The introduction of this element into the suspension design made it possible to maintain the stability of the vehicle during cornering and maneuvering.

Thus, the main task of the stabilizer during movement is to distribute the weight of the car body over all its wheels in the event of a roll. In particular, this applies to cases of rather sharp turns or when there is a sudden change in the trajectory of movement.

The principle of operation of the anti-roll bar

On a fairly common type of McFerson suspension today, the stabilizer is a torsion bar, which works in torsion. This element is rigidly connected to the car body or subframe. The forces generated in the suspension are transmitted to the stabilizer through additional levers, which are communicated with the suspension due to the hinges. This simple scheme allows you to prevent even a serious roll of the vehicle, and even more so its rollover.

The rear axle is most often equipped with this type of stabilizer in the case of an all-wheel drive vehicle. If we talk about cars with rear-wheel drive and a solid beam on the rear axle, then the role of the stabilizer is given to the reaction rod, also known as the Panhard rod.

Also, a number of Japanese off-road vehicles at one time, in addition to the Panhard thrust, were additionally equipped with another stabilizer, which, in the form of a curved thrust, went along the rear axle beam and communicated with the power components of the body through small levers.

Stabilizer bushings. Malfunction symptoms. Consequences.

For the best damping of vibrations and forces acting on the car body, the vast majority of suspension elements are connected by means of elastic elements. The same goes for the stabilizer. For its fastening, special bushings (rubber bands, pillows) made of durable rubber or polyurethane are used. Over time, as the vehicle is used, these bushings can begin to collapse and noticeably lose their elasticity. This results in unsatisfactory operation of the stabilizer =. More serious defects may begin to appear, which will only grow faster over time.

Diagram of the stabilizer device and its fastening elements

The first symptom, foreshadowing the replacement of the bushings, will be a slight knocking of the suspension. A similar knock can be observed with "tired" shock absorbers. Only in the case of bushings, it will be heard not only on pits and bumps, but also when entering relatively sharp turns. At the same time, the car often feels excessively wobbly and sluggish. The resulting knock will be the result of a backlash in the connecting nodes of the stabilizer levers due to worn out bushings.

If measures are not taken in time, the knocking will only intensify in the future and will begin to accompany the work of the suspension everywhere due to the increasing deformation and destruction of the bushings. Body roll and excessive play in the steering wheel may occur. It is possible to "yaw" the car not only in corners, but also in cases of braking or lane change. Most automakers advise changing the stabilizer bushings every 30-40 thousand mileage. However, in our conditions it is better to focus on the wear of the bushings. Therefore, a sudden knock and slight bounce in corners will be clear signs of an impending replacement of components.

As a popular method of checking the bushings for serviceability, it is proposed to move in the 2nd gear of the "speed bump" obliquely. There was a dull thud in the area of ​​the pedals - most likely, the Khan's bushings. You can also just crawl under the car to inspect everything yourself. A worn out bushing will please with cracks and abrasions typical of worn out and cracked rubber. These cracks are sometimes also called "daisies" by the car maker.

Stabilizer bush and bracket for fixing it

Also, the rubber of the bushings can simply harden and lose the necessary elasticity. If the stabilizer bushings do not work well, then just swing your hand hard up and down and to the sides of the stabilizer itself. If you feel a backlash, squeaks and knocks in the lower part of the suspension, then the bushings have become unusable.

But for the best result, it is better, of course, to drive onto an overpass, inspection pit, or use a lift. Of the tools, you only need a crowbar or a mounting blade, which you just need to rest on the bottom of the car and slightly "shake" the stabilizer, in the places where it joins the body. If you feel a noticeable backlash or a loss of elasticity is found, then it's time to think about replacing the bushings.

Stabilizer Bush Replacement Process

Replacing the bushings will not take much time. You just need the right tools, plus a well-lit and comfortable working area. It is unlikely that the average driver will have access to a professional lift during work, so it is better to get a pair of jacks and a special rigid support in advance.

The tool you may need

1. Open-end wrench and possibly a ring wrench.
2. Ratchet with extension.
3. Vorotok.
4. Cap head.

Tools Required to Replace Bushings

Work order

• The machine is hung out on jacks and securely fixed.
• Wheels are removed. The crankcase protection and wheel arch liners are also dismantled.

View of the stabilizer pad before starting work

• The next step is to raise the lower lever with a jack or place an emphasis under it. If the bushings on the side of both wheels are changed (which is highly recommended), then it is better to place stops under the axle of the front wheels or use a jack. All this is necessary in order to remove the load from the stabilizer beam and facilitate further replacement of the bushings.

Jacks up the lower arm for easy rubber band change

• Further, you can loosen on both sides of the attachment of the anti-roll bar to the car body or subframe. In case of difficulties with the bolts due to contamination and oxide - treat them with a "vedashka" or other similar solution to facilitate their subsequent unscrewing.
• The bushing mount and the bushing itself are removed. The latter, for the most part, are now made cut, which greatly facilitates the process of their removal.

The old bushing is removed from the stabilizer

• A new bushing is taken and put in place of the old one. Experienced auto repairmen recommend washing well and wiping the part's seat on the stabilizer. You can also lather the sleeve a little to make it easier to move, or use a special lubricant, which is often included in the repair kit.

A pre-lathered or greased new bushing is installed

• The bolts of the sleeve clamp are tightened.

New bushing at the end of all work

• The jack or support is removed from under the lever and the wheel is placed.

It must be understood that the device and complexity of the suspension on different cars may differ markedly and the above instructions are not universal in nature. But for a general understanding of the process and order of work, it is more than enough.

A selection of videos on replacing bushings on various cars

Replacement for VAZ: video guide

Replacement for Renault Megan 2: video instructions

Replacing the rubber bands of the stabilizer on the Chevrolet Aveo

Replacing stabilizer bushings on Hyundai Solaris (Accent)

Replacing bushings is not a difficult or time consuming task. Everything about everything can take an hour and a half or two. But in the price lists of the service station, this service does not belong to the expensive section. So here everyone decides for himself whether to be confused in the garage for an hour or two, or to give the car to the masters and do more pressing matters.